Natalia Moreira
email: natalia.guimaraesmoreira@studenti.polito.it

Daoud Aït-Kadi
email: daoud.aitkadi@gmc.ulaval.ca

Luis Antoniode

Santa -Eulalia

Evolution ofgreen textiles in the aeronautic industry: anexploratory literature review

Keywords: Optimization, design, textiles, aeronautic, sustainable products development

Currently, the "eco" product development process isbased on a diverse range of methodologies, from Life Cycle Assessments to Product-service systems. These methodologies however face harder obstacles when introduced to certain industries. The textile industry is divided into a large set of expertise and can be applied in an even wider variety of products. It is known for its highly polluting dyes, short life-cycle and small concern with end of life, combined with the aeronautic CO 2 production represents a clear threat to the environment, but it also represents opportunities. Large companies such as AirBus, Boeing, Bombardier and Embraer, have set environmental forecast for the next thirty years in which they propose new developments to reduce their menace. This paper provides an evaluation of the current state of art for the textile development within ecological standards.

INTRODUCTION

Aviation is definitely not the biggest contributor to climate change by far, however if its rapid growth continues without stronger environmental improvement, then it may offset the improvements made by other industries. Aviation still emits large volumes of CO 2 each year, and whilst only being 2% of overall global production it still amounts to an additional 670,000,000 tonnes in a year, that volume has doubled since 1990 and is predicted to more than double again by 2025 to 1480,000,000 tonnes. There are also other pollutants such as NO X created by inefficiencies in combustion that cause other environmental damage. Some of these pollutants damage the ozone layer that shields us from harmful radiation. These pollutants are even stronger in their impact because they are released at high altitudes. Scientists predict in different research that the total warming impact of aviation"s emissions can be multiplied anywhere between 1.9 and 2.7 times, or even more in some scenarios, to estimate their true impact [START_REF] Aviation | Humans need to fly. greenaviation[END_REF].

According to the European Commission, since 1990 the common greenhouse gas emission (GHGE), in Europe, grew 87%. [START_REF] Mccollum | Greenhouse Gas Emissions from Aviation and Marine Transportation: Mitigation Potential and Policies. Prepared for the Pew Center on Global Climate Change[END_REF] add that 3% of the total GHGE produced in the world comes from aviation and marine transportation. [START_REF] Mccollum | Greenhouse Gas Emissions from Aviation and Marine Transportation: Mitigation Potential and Policies. Prepared for the Pew Center on Global Climate Change[END_REF] also predicts that the projections for CO 2 emissions from global aviation are estimated at 3.1 percent per year over the next 40 years, resulting in a 300% increase in emissions by 2050. Studies claim that domestic flights contribute with 257 g/km CO 2 per passenger of emission. Directly associated to the economic situation the aviation industry felt a strong deterioration out of the crisis, having its international passenger traffic falling by 4.6%, as announced by the International Air Transport Association -IATA. The slump continued in 2009. In March, IATA said that the airline industry"s losses could amount to US$2.5 billion during the course of the year, as traffic dropped by about 3%. However, at the end of 2009, Airbus had a total order backlog of almost 3,500 aircraft and an order book worth US$437 billion. By contrast, Boeing"s aircraft orders tumbled by 79% to 142 9 th International Conference of Modeling, June 06-08, 2012 -Bordeaux -France "Performance, interoperability and safety for sustainable development" MOSIM'12 -June 06-08, 2012 -Bordeaux -France amid the worst travel slump since World War II. Profit plummeted 51% to US$1.3 billion.

On the other hand, economically, the years of 2008 and 2009 were marked by the economic recession which spread widely throughout the world. Highly decreasing population wealth and leading countries to breakage, but, such a crisis also led to a visible increase in the investments and interest towards the green economy.

According to the UNEP (United Nations Environmental Programme) for the private sector, the transition into a greener approach towards new developments and innovationswould involve responding to new policy reforms, incentives given by the government after the financial crisis; as well as to a constantly more informed and ecologically concerned consumer, taking thus advantage of opportunities arising from a green economy (Dalkmann and Sakamoto, 2011).

The present market environment is based on a tripod, balancing between consumption, capital and work cost, and indispensable social growth. Nevertheless, for a sustainable growth there is a higher need for it to equilibrate environmental, social and economic needs.

It was in this context that the Eco-design concept was created, integrating the environmental demands to the development of new products with the main objective of decreasing the quantity of solid remains, inserting this concern into the conception process. Integrated into the designer"s practices and tools, eco-design provides more space for innovation and creativity within the industrial environment. Thus being a new opportunity for differentiation and a future competitive factor [START_REF] Riopel | Ingénierie et gestion de la logistique inverse[END_REF].

As the seventh goal of the Millennium Development Goals, the insurance of the environmental sustainability, is an important asset for the development of an economy but it is still not tangible in every industry. Companies such as Airbus publish their Global Market Forecast (GMF) for the next 19 years (2010/29), which predict the production of more than 25 thousand new aircrafts and the recycle and conversion of over 5 thousand of the older crafts; finally, the number of retirements, will reach 9.240 aircrafts in the declared period. Morelli (2003) claims that a more ecological approach towards products development is a challenge as it not only represents the creation of a new product, but also the reorganization of already (or not) existing elements according to new needs and values. For the development of an "eco-product" the cultural and social values are equivalent to people and technologies. In short, such a creation, can be seen as a combination between technological artefacts based in functional parameters selected, not only by the designer, but also by the user and the environment in which it will be inserted.

Throughout the world companies and associations, like the AFRA -Aircraft Fleet Recycling Association, concerned with the end of life asset management as well as the recovery, disassembly, transportation and reconstruction of non-functional crafts.

According to the English company Air Salvage International (ASI), 70% of an aircraft can be recycled if properly handled, and only 20% of the remaining 30 are currently being disposed properly, referring to the composite materials (fiberglass, polyester, polyamide, carbon fibres, etc). The only part of the airplane which is sold fully and, in most cases, will regain their utility, are the engines, they represent 80% of the cost of the aircraft and are often re-bought by its producer.

This article was developed from the absence of a previous literature review on the use and development of ecologically forwarded textiles in the aeronautic industry and intends tocontribute to pave the way towards closing this research gap.

The article is organized into four sections. Starting with an introduction on the discussed subject in Section 1, it passes to a review,in Section 2,of the published literature, explaining the current situation of eco-design and the aviation industry, which are the textiles taken into consideration and how they are applied in an aircraft. Afterwards the research gaps are exposed in Section 3 in order to better understand the aims of the paper, followed by Section 4 were the used methodology and research difficulties are explained.Finalized by the conclusion and future projects in Section 4.

LITERATURE REVIEW

The aeronautic industry profile

In the past decade, air travel has grown by 7% per year. Travel for both business and leisure purposes grew strongly worldwide. In the leisure market, the availability of larger aircrafts made it convenient and affordable for people to travel further to new and exotic destinations. Governments in developing countries realized the benefits of tourism to their national economies and spurred the development of resorts and infrastructure to lure tourists from the prosperous countries in Western Europe and North America (The gulf today, 2011).

MOSIM '12 -June 06-08, 2012 -Bordeaux -France During much of its development, the global airline industry dealt with major technological innovations such as the introduction of jet airplanes for commercial use in the 1950s, followed by the development of wide-body "jumbo jets" in the 1970s (MIT, 2005). At the same time, airlines were heavily regulated throughout the world, creating an environment in which technological advances and government policy took precedence over profitability and competition. It has only been in the period since the economic deregulation of airlines in the United States in 1978 that questions of cost efficiency, operating profitability and competitive behaviour have become the dominant issues facing airline management.

Over the last three years, the aviation industry, like many other industries, has faced one of the most challenging environments since the 'Great Depression' of the 1930s. Today, the global airline industry consists of over 2000 airlines providing service to over 3700 airports worldwide. In the US airline industry, approximately 100 certificated passenger airlines operate over 11 million flight departures per year, and carry over one-third of the world"s total air.

According to the US Department of Transportation Bureau of Transportation since 2006, fuel has emerged as the single largest industry expense, surpassing labour costs for the first time. The industry still is recovering from its latest cycle of financial struggles, but faces substantial challenges. High fuel costs are compelling airlines to accelerate replacement of older airplanes. In addition, the increased capabilities of the latest longrange, twin-aisle airplanes create opportunities for operators to take advantage of the on-going liberalization of air transport markets to open new nonstop routes.

Boeing (2011)claims that passenger air traffic rose 8% in 2010, after declining about 2% in 2009. The persistent resilience of air travel is expected to sustain 6% growth in 2011 and keep the growth rate at or above the historical trend of 5% through the middle of the decade. Together, Bombardier, Boeing and Airbus, intent on delivering 72,150 aircrafts by 2030, accounting on over US$7,8 trillion. The global gross domestic product (GDP) is projected to grow at an average of 3.3% per year for the next 20 years. Reflecting this economic growth, worldwide passenger traffic will average 5.1% growth and cargo traffic will average 5.6% growth over the forecast period.

Eco-design

In the last years, the variety and availability of products in the market increased remarkably. Stimulated by the market supply, which rapidly offers a more attractive item, the reparation cost becomes higher than the acquisition of a new one, decreasing the product"s lifespan and robustness. In the different industries, new technologies and fashion trends influence the life cycle of the products along with its fabrication process. Consumers, consequently, feel more attracted by innovations and hurled design, leading them to replacing their current models as soon as a new one starts being commercialized, not worrying about their current"s durability or functionality. How long a product will last then loses its importance in the acquisition process.

However, the fast technical evolution, associated to the population increase, overconsumption, poor use of resources and pollution, has presented serious consequences to the environment [START_REF] Ljungberg | Materials selection and design for development of sustainable products[END_REF], generating the need for new strategies in order to change production and current consumption standards.

It is in this environment that a new professional is inserted, with the intention of spreading into corporations the importance of following more environment friendly technologies for its products development. According to the United Nation"s Environment Programme (UNEP) the eco-designer is responsible for "the integration of environmental aspects into the product development process, by balancing ecological and economic requirements." Eco-design considers environmental aspects at all stages of the product development process, striving for products which make the lowest possible environmental impact throughout the product life cycle.

To guarantee the implementation of the European Union strategies towards the environment some restrictions to products were implemented controlling the production process; product"s composition; future use; and most importantly, its end of life. At the moment the most challenging issues for eco-designer are use impacts and end of life cycle as it might affect mainly water discharges, the atmosphere, influence on waste management and disposal, enable accident prevention and control noise levels.

Vezzoli and [START_REF] Manzini | Design for environmental sustainability[END_REF] claim that low impact product may require clean technologies, but that it demands for secure new design capacities, promoting sustainable consumption and behaviour. For the reorientation of consumers" choices towards new developments, leaning to a sustainable consumption, there should be made mandatory changes in consumer"s cultural and social behaviour.

For [START_REF] Ulrich | Product Design and Development[END_REF] there are certain challenges , especially when it is taken into an ecological perspective. There are trade-offs to consider, every product can be designed and produced in a more eco-MOSIM'12 -June 06-08, 2012 -Bordeaux -France friendly way, but this will probably increase manufacturing cost. Therefore, such trade-offs must be emphasized, understood and managed in order to improve the product"s chances of success.

Market"s dynamics is another influence in the odds of success of a product, preferences, technologies and people"s taste change with a formidable speed. What demands fast and correct decision making, even under pressure, as well as a constant attention to what happens in the market where the product will be inserted, considering not only each individual"s need but also the society"s.

Thus was born a new class of design focused in a sustainable satisfactory approach, the eco-design, which simply aims to design following ecological criteria, tending to handle ecological questions with an upstream approach. As stated by Vezzoli and [START_REF] Manzini | Design for environmental sustainability[END_REF] the general frame of reference of the role of this line of design is to connect technologically possible with ecologically necessary, giving birth to a new sociocultural proposition. In other words: responding to social demands of well-being while using drastically smaller amounts of environmental resources then needed by the present system.

Within the product development process the eco-design represents the inclusion, by the development team, of environmental matter into every phase of the development, not forgetting traditional arguments such as function, costs, production, aesthetics, etc. Such a change means to evaluate the used materials, the environmental performance during the fabrication, maintenance, logistics (reverse in the case of discontinuation of the product), reutilization, dismantling, re manufacturing, recycling and final disposal [START_REF] Rozenfeld | Gestão de desenvolvimento de produtos: uma referência para a melhoria do processo[END_REF]. When it comes to the ecological performance of a product or a service, there is not much to do once the product is released into the market (and when there is it usually originates an extremely high cost), that is why this aspect of the development has to be considered and a high influence from the initial phases of the process.

Definition of Textiles

Due to the subject"s complexity and its connection to the textile industry, this paper was developed considering a broad diversity of products and its particularities regarding what is usually considered textiles: artefacts made by weaving or felting or knitting or crocheting natural or synthetic fibres ("Textile", Thesaurus Dictionary). In the aeronautic industry textile materials can be found in the exterior structures, technical and fibrous composite materials applied to the fuselage, coating and internal items of the aircraft, as well as for special uniforms, parachutes, balloons, etc. In order to maintain the innovative aspect of the work, thispaper has only taken into consideration internal completion materials as textiles. Authors such as [START_REF] Dexter | Development of Textile Reinforced Composites for Aircraft Structures[END_REF] and [START_REF] Suarez | Novel composites for wings and fuselageapplications: textile Reinforced Composites and Design Guidelines[END_REF] have already published a wide range of material regarding textile composites and its use in the exterior structure of the airplane.

According [START_REF] Dexter | Development of Textile Reinforced Composites for Aircraft Structures[END_REF],in 1980"s NASA researchers started developing breakthrough technologies able to significantly change the way composite structures were being built, this decision led to the increase and change of perspective on the use of composites in the aircraft hardware development for its lightweight and resistance. This sort of material, according to the author represents a great step forward to the industry and therefore has received great incentives from powerful research and development specialized companies, such as NASA, Boeing, etc.

In addition to [START_REF] Dexter | Development of Textile Reinforced Composites for Aircraft Structures[END_REF], [START_REF] Suarez | Novel composites for wings and fuselageapplications: textile Reinforced Composites and Design Guidelines[END_REF]believes that it is important to emphasize that designers who work with the performance of textiles in the aeronautic industry must develop further and try to standardize more, thus ensuring repeatability and structural integrity, needing considerable insight into the processing methodology to adequately define the part (through modelling tools), design the tooling and be confident in the end-product performance.

In parallel to a wider number of publications and researches, however,there is an absence of papers on what regards the use of fabrics on the completion and refurbishment of aircraft.

Completion and Upholstery

The air transportation, at the beginning, in an attempt to make the passenger feel at home, would try to decorate the aircrafts to look as a train, as can be seen on the Dornier Do-X, the world"s largest seaplane on the 30s. During the 50s aviation was seen as a mean of transport very exotic and luxurious cabins offer conditions to which today"s consumers can only dream of (as can be seen on figure 1). However comfortable, it was difficult to travel in these conditions due to the environmental discomfort caused by noise, cold, and lack of pressurization,besides a complete disregard to the dangers of this sort of decoration, not proper for flying for its weight and for its looseness in the aircraft, therefore causing displacement in case of turbulence. The luxurious passenger accommodation approached the standards of transatlantic liners. On the main deck was a smoking room with its own wet bar, a dining salon, and seating for the 66 passengers which could also be converted to sleeping berths for night flights. The aft of the passenger spaces was an all-electric galley, lavatories, and cargo hold.

In the first commercial lines the most striking feature was the division of cabins in a series of compartments. It should be noted that the separation was a necessity in compartments in ships to prevent leaks. The shells of the aircraft, made of aluminium (not iron as in ships), were very vulnerable to damage, it was extremely important to prevent leakage of air or a sudden flood in case of storm or sea crash.

In the 80s the premium business class on long flights was created by large companies as Air Canada, Continental Airlines, Northwest and KLM. Two decades after the configuration in two cabins reverted to three in all the companies. The lack of regulation allowed challenges between the offers of companies, especially because passengers wanted lower fares without worrying to a bit of discomfort. As a result, some companies passed from the standard 36 inches to 31-32 inches, but passengers soon were tired with the discomfort. Led by American Airlines, who offered a 34 inches seat in economy class, the airlines quickly started offering space as an added value.

The economy class seats are given few resources to implement innovation. This class has developed over many years within a highly regulated industry that does not tolerate risks as regards safety in a fiercely competitive environment, where the increase of an inch leads to the loss of an entire row of seats. Over time the airline industry began to think of other ways to make the space so that passengers feel more comfortable and secure.

Aircraft interiors have seen significant evolvement over the decades. Early interiors were mostly soft-toned, as flying itself was still much of an excitement, and calm colours were intended to smoothen this a bit.

As flying became more common, interior colours also became brighter, with red, orange, and beige being typical 70s favourites, along with motif-decorated cabin walls depicting scenery from the carrier"s country of origin or wallpaper-like patterns, often in bright or dark colours (von Wedelstaedt, 2002).

By the 1980s, blue and grey won over, creating a more formal, business-like atmosphere. With flying now being a form of mass transportation, more practical solutions were needed. Formerly, many airlines used different colours along or across the cabin, but this is very rare now.

Cabin walls, bins and fixtures are now mostly white or light grey. All in all, just like many exterior paint schemes, cabins now look more alike, in fact, such a change made the transfer of an aircraft to a different operator easier as no major refurbishment is needed.

More variety can at least be found in the upper classes.

While Economy Class cabins are very similar in colour and seat design, Business and First cabins leave more opportunity for differentiation, and it"s here that most airlines focus on their attention.

In fact, Economy Class has seen few improvements in terms of comfort, besides more ergonomically designed seats and maybe in-seat video (von Wedelstaedt, 2002), but Business and First have improved vastly, leaving such a large gap between Business and Economy on long hall aircraft that some airlines have introduced an enhanced Economy product as well. Business Class seats are now often more comfortable than older First Class seats and, therefore, some companies have extended their First Class services also offering flat beds and private cabins.

The constant search for comfort during flights and the increasing amount of people with higher income seeking for more privacy, led to the creation of yet a new aeronautic sector, the industry of private airplanes, and behind it, the industry of completion, design and refurbishment.

This multi-millionaire industry developed itself around airplanes able to carry from two to eighteen people, being extremely exclusive and in constant evolution, especially in order to guarantee high-tech solution, and top of the line product.

MOSIM '12 -June 06-08, 2012 -Bordeaux -France Most of the big aircraft companies have a line of products which satisfies this industry and in parallel an extension of the company specialised in personalized solutions.

According to Business Jet traveller, currently, in the world, there are only 115 companies that work with this kind of solution, reaching high figures. A refurbishment might reach figures over a million dollars and its rental cost over US$ 2,500 (per hour).

Regarding ergonomic, designer and physiotherapists praise for less sleeper fabrics which are said to be better for pre-existing lumbar lordosis (Huet, 2003). For these professionals, the correct choice of textile is very important for the travellers, however it is not the only influencing aspect, the height and distance between chairs are crucial for the lumbar health of the passengers.

On what concerns exclusively the use of fabricit is known that leather is an upholstering commonly used on aircrafts mainly for two reasons; the first is its resistance to high temperature and for the fact that it does not spread fire; and the second for its high durability and lasting aesthetics. For the manufacture of products the interested company must follow the requirements of national and/or international aviation legislation, regardless of the product application: coatings seats, floor mats and etc.

Another textile use example can be found in the airplane engine model: Quasar HKS, which protects its occupants by the use of seatbelts design to attach to 4points in order to protect the user in case of deceleration, being a feature beyond traditional requirements.

Throughout the airplanes the seats are made with foam, a material which can easily absorb vertical impacts, protecting the spine of the occupants. As cover however it is more common to find (especially in economy class flights) seats made of wool which is a natural fibre and with great absorption qualities. The most common varieties used will vary from 330-380 g/m 2 .

METHODOLOGY

A literature review was chosen as research methodology in order to provide a broad synthesis of the researched subject, providing thus a general overview of the subject [START_REF] Knopf | Doing a literature review[END_REF].

According to Cooper (89), there are two sets of focuses and goals when developing a literature review: the integrative research review and theoretical review. Due to the aimed results, the project was developed towards an integrative research review.

An Integrative research review presents the state of knowledge concerning the relation(s) of interest and to highlight important issues that research review has left unresolved, adding or altering the existing body of knowledge (Cooper,89).

Due to the complexity of the subject and absence of previous works, it was difficult to identify scientific/academic papers in the area. With the purpose of providing the widest range of information possible the research had to be expanded into non-traditional sources such as technical reports from studied companies and industry web sites, thus leaning to an exploratory research.

As praised by [START_REF] Fink | Conducting research literature reviews: from the internet to paper[END_REF], the validity of a data collection method refers to its accuracy, and not necessarily to its source. Even though there was a large use of alternative literature sources the liability of the information provided is less questionable due to the lack of commercial interest. However, it is important to note the existence of a high correlation of the exposed factors in different references, providing enough evidence to be considered a test-retest reliability experiment [START_REF] Fink | Conducting research literature reviews: from the internet to paper[END_REF], which can attest for the projects liability.

THE "ECO" SOLUTIONS SO FAR

Since 1992, when the Rio-92 took place, the concern and interest of companies and consumers for ecologic alternatives for their products grew considerably. However products fulfilling that need are slowly being developed and entering the market as a new supplementary niche, which is sold for being "green" but which actually might represent a new environmental threat disguised of eco-friendly.

One of the main ecologic problems related to textiles in the aviation industry and that affects the environment the most is the finishing process by which all the fabrics have to pass in order to guarantee its flame-retardancy. However something should also be said about the use of pesticides and defoliants in natural fibres plantations and harvesting.

A large diversity of products used in the green aircraft completion have their downsides in at least one process of its life, if not when harvesting or finishing, fabrics are known for its pollution levels and in an industry with such a strict regulation to follow safety-wise, it is hard to follow all the technical demands as well as all the chemical requirements being environmentally forwarded.

Even though not directly ordered to be used by the aircraft industry, an example which can easily be related MOSIM'12 -June 06-08, 2012 -Bordeaux -France to the studied subject happened in the early 90"s,when William McDonough and Michael Braungart were asked, by the Swiss textile company DesignTex, to conceive and create a compostable upholstery fabric in cooperation with the also Swiss mill Rӧhner.The main requirement from the company was to have aesthetically unique fabric that was also environmentally intelligent (McDonough and Braungart, 2002).

The initial idea was to develop a product using cotton combined with material derived from PET (polyethylene terephthalate) bottles, an idea very innovative for the time. The possibility of using a natural fiber with a recycled option of material was seen by the company"s CEO as the best alternative possible and good for the company"s marketing strategy, a plus side to the fact that this kind of technology was already widely available, market-tested, durable and cheap. For McDonough and Braungart however this idea would represent, in the future, a monstrous hybrid.

Following cradle-to-cradle principals, mainly as claimed by McDonough and Braungart (2002) and Bistagnino ( 2011), new products should be easily placed within two categories: technical or biological nutrient, returning to nature or facilitating its cycle somehow. A monstrous hybrid, also known as "Frankenstein products", on the other hand, represents a product that has a mixture of materials both technical and biological, neither of which can be salvaged after their current lives. The PET, even if previously recycled from soda bottles, would not go back to the soil safely and the cotton could not be circulated in industrial cycles. The proposed combination would lead to yet more trash to be tossed into landfills, what is the last intention of any eco-designer.

Following their cradle-to-cradle background the team decided to develop a product which would be easily reabsorbed by nature, nourishing it; it would not harm people who breathed it ina common situation when the fabric is rubbed, and it would not harm the natural systems after its disposal, thus, the trimming and fabric left-overs could be used by the local garden clubs, providing mulch, especially because in Switzerland the current upholstery fabric"s trimming were considered a hazardous product and had to be "safely disposed" in outside the country.

In order to achieve the aimed objective the team decided to work with a strong and comfortable mixture of animal and pesticide-free plant fibres, wool (which provides insulation in winter and summer) and ramie (which allows transpiration and repels moisture). However, the most difficult part of the development process was the chemical aspects of the design: the finishes, dyes, and innumerous chemical processes 1 by which the fabrics usually have to be submitted. In the end of the process the team singled-out thirty-eight positively classified chemicals to use in their line of products.

This development worked extremely well and when the mill was tested by regulators they found out that the effluents were cleaner than the influents, what meant that for the company it was actually better to re-use their own water as influent. Not only the new product bypass the traditional responses to environmental problems (reduce, reuse, recycle), it also eliminated the need for regulation, a valuable aspect for business, employees and the local community.

This experience, even though successful, represents a very isolated case, with small international repercussion and follow up cases in the following twenty years. Their first concern, the mixture of cotton and PET is in fact currently a very popular option of eco-product amongst fashionists and the so-called eco-labels, as well as a wide diversity of other monstrous hybrids. And the found solution, even though economically positive to the hiring company, is not a popular product in the upholstery industry.

The concern with the sustainability of the aeronautic industry can be seen in many sites around the globe. According to Riopelet al. (2011) the Canadian Bombardier, is working to develop their products following the Design for the Environment (DfE) directives, decreasing the environmental impacts during its life cycle and constantly improving environmental aspects of their products.

Besides the concern with the development of new products, there is a growing number of companies interested in guaranteeing the reutilization of aircraft parts, providing proper disassembly and distribution services in North America and Europe. Tarmac (Tarbes Advanced Recycling and Maintenance Company), in France, claims that 85% of an A-300-B4"s mass can safely be reused or recycled (Riopel et al.,11). The same can be confirmed by the British Air Salvage International or by the American AeroTurbine ("How to recycle a plane", BBC -2010). There is a constant growing need not to dispose aircrafts into cemeteries but to close its loop.

1

The team eliminated eight thousand chemicals that are commonly used in the textile industry and may contain mutagens, carcinogens, endocrine disrupters, persistent toxins and bio-accumulative substances,also eliminating the need for additives and corrective processes.

MOSIM '12 -June 06-08, 2012 -Bordeaux -France In February 2011, the American company, Duncan Aviation, based in Battle Creek -Michigan, specialized in maintenance, refurbishment and other aviation services, published on its website (www.duncanaviation.aero) that they were currently introducing materials into their completion line of products which were cheaper, 100% green, in accordance to the present regulations, and of excellent quality.

Duncan"s aircraft interior designer, Lori Browning, defines "green materials" as: materials made of renewable, recycled or natural resources.For her, the fewer natural resources and energy that are consumed the better. Following this argument she states that using a local carpet vendor reduces fuel consumption without compromising the quality of the carpet, however this does not necessarily mean that it is a product with a better qualities for the environment, it does however, stimulate the local community.

Also according to the company, some eco-friendly fabric collections were launched recently, and they realised that the properties that made them green also make them suitable for aviation burn regulations. But, some of the chosen fabrics, like bamboo, have to undergo strong solvents in order to make bamboo fibres suitable for any textile use. More natural alternatives can be used but, for it, the cost of the process will increase considerably. The also propose the use of rapidly-renewable wood veneers which are less expensive because they grow more quickly.

The company has a wide number of "green" propositions but there is no study on the actual conception and recyclability of these products. As seen before, the aeronautic industry is currently one of the most polluting industries in the world; while flying or after retirement. However there is evidence of new product which might be able to positively change this situation.

Throughout the literature review an increased interest in green aircraft completion was visible, however its development and actual proofs of its ecological character was not clear in most of the material researched. Many companies, mainly in North America, claim to conceive and produce green products, mainly aimed for luxury aircraft"s interior decoration, but none of them provide further information on how that is achieved, the level of acceptance, the price difference of how the product is reinserted into a new system or re-inserted into its cycle, meeting the "green" demands of the commercial industry. This work aimed the analysis of the product development process within the concept of green aircraft completion, pointing out their current development process, research and development procedures and main apprehensions as well as improvement possibilities, confirm if the elevated value can be associated to a fewer usage of resources and finally, if the product that arrives to the final buyer is really an eco-friendly alternative or a monstrous hybrid alternative which will finish its life in a landfill.

4.CONCLUSIONS

It was noticed that there is almost no academic research on textiles applied in the aeronautic industry, especially on what regards refurbishment, completion and its ecological aspects, what led to a need to research information not only in academic publication but also through a wide number of companies and white-papers.

Even though the aeronautic industry is currently one of the biggest pollutants worldwide, its concern in becoming green is mainly a response to directives and environmental regulations than an answer to consumer"s interests and demands.

The most important aspect seen for the industry when "becoming green" is directed to a need to emit less carbon dioxide.An increasing interest coming from the textile suppliers to produce more ecologic solutions for aviation, not only regarding weight (and fuel consumption) but also the materials used, its recyclability or clean disposal.

Most of the problems currently associated to textiles used inside the aircraft have a chemical and highly pollutant source, however a solution or suitable alternatives do not seem to have yet been found in a reasonable price and in accordance to the supply and demand expectative. But the raw material or the fabrics before the finishing phase are leaning gradually towards "greener" development and production approaches.

Even though it was possible to have a broader point of view of the current aeronautic eco-textile situation in the market, many question were not answered through this research as for instance the level of acceptance of the customers. Such answers will be satisfied on a more practical phase of the project in which interviews will be done with refurbishment specialists, suppliers and, if possible, customers;thus aiming to gain an actual insight of the development and use of these materials.

  Figure1: Internal completion of the Dornier Do-X (source: Industrial artefacts Review)

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The author would like to thank EDISU Piedmont (EnteRegionale per ilDirittoallo Studio Universitario del Piemonte) and Politecnico di Torino for the financial support provided to the project and to theUniversité Laval and TÉLUQ/UQUAM which contributed to the findings of this research.