text:
Transwiki:Manual transmission driving technique

The Friction Point

 * With the shifter in neutral, push the clutch all the way down with your left foot and start the engine.
 * After the engine starts, wait for engine speed to return to idle.
 * Shift to 1st gear, then slowly release the clutch without touching the accelerator. Stop any pedal movement when the engine's RPM dips slightly. The clutch is at the friction point since the clutch plate begins to experience friction as it presses against the flywheel.
 * Push the clutch down to the floor and practice releasing to the friction point a few times. Note how the clutch pedal and engine's RPM changes, if any.

Moving For The First Time
While on level ground, where you should be when you learn to drive a manual, follow the steps below
 * Push the clutch all the way down, shift to first gear, and release the parking brake.
 * Release the clutch to the friction point. The car should begin to move.
 * If it doesn't, touch the gas pedal to raise the engine speed slightly. Ease the pressure off of the clutch pedal slightly until the car moves.  Then stop any pedal movements.
 * Wait about 2 seconds, then completely release the clutch.

Get Going Faster
The car moves because the engine is losing a bit of its momentum. Although it burns fuel to recover lost momentum, the engine stops running if it loses too much (see stalling below). If we want to get going faster, we need to get more momentum from the engine by releasing the clutch faster. At the same time, we have to add more gas so the engine can recover that momentum to keep running. The steps are similar to the above until you get to the friction point. A beginner should concentrate on performing these skills smoothly. Once smoothness is mastered, practicing coordination is the next goal. As the engine speed rises, a competent driver would ease off of the clutch just enough to stop the engine speed from rising further. That would get the vehicle moving even quicker. Once the car starts moving, stop any pedal movements for about one second before completely releasing the clutch.
 * Once you are at the friction point, add a small amount of gas without moving the clutch pedal. The engine should raise its speed slightly.
 * Ease the pressure off of the clutch until the engine slows down a bit. The car should be moving noticeably at this point.
 * Hold the pedals steady for about one second, then completely release the clutch.

Shifting Concepts
In a manual transmission car, the driver is responsible for operating a clutch and changing what gear the car is in using a gear shifter. The driver is required to correctly operate these two devices in order to start, accelerate, decelerate and stop the car.

The basic concept of shifting is to allow the car's engine to turn the wheels at one of several different gear ratios. Each gear has a fairly wide range of vehicle speeds that it covers, with plenty of overlap between the gears, except at extreme vehicle speeds. Near the limits of the car's speed, the speed of the car dictates the gear ratio. If the vehicle is to move at the slowest possible crawling pace with the engine engaged, that requires the lowest gear to be selected; the engine will stall in any other gear (if it does not, it is not the slowest possible crawling speed!). At the car's top speed, it may be necessary to be in the highest gear, so that the engine does not spin beyond its "redline" limit. This basic connection between gear ratios and speeds is why gears are sometimes called "speeds", as in "five speed transmission". At the intermediate speeds not near the limits, the driver has a choice of two or more possible gear ratios. As a rule of thumb, a lower gear from among these, possibly the lowest, is chosen when power is required in order to accelerate or to climb a hill, or to provide "engine braking" to reduce or prevent unwanted acceleration when driving downhill. Higher gears are chosen when less power or less engine braking is required, in order to save fuel, reduce engine wear and minimize noise.

Before the driver can change gears, the clutch must be disengaged. The clutch is a mechanism that temporarily disengages the transmission and drivetrain from the engine of the vehicle. Once the clutch is depressed the driver can change gears without disrupting the smooth motion of the vehicle. When the car is in the desired gear, the driver then releases the clutch to allow the engine to turn the wheels again.

If the gear is changed without depressing the clutch, the gears may grind which can cause damage to the transmission. If a gear that is too low is selected, the wheels may be spinning too fast for the clutch to catch, again grinding the gears. Alternatively, if the clutch does catch the engine may be forced to spin faster than it is capable of which can damage the engine. If a gear that is too high is selected, the gearing ratio will force the engine to rotate at a speed that is too slow and the engine may stall.

Upshifting
When accelerating in any forward gear other than top gear, shift up when the engine is turning at too high a speed for the current gear. The engine speed that constitutes "too high" varies from vehicle to vehicle and according to the driver's taste, but the absolute upper limit is usually marked on most vehicles equipped with a tachometer as a red area called the redline. Running the engine past this speed can cause damage to internal components of the engine (and most modern cars with electronic engine control computers will not permit the engine to be run past the redline). In practice, one usually shifts up well before the engine speed reaches redline. The vehicle's owner's manual should contain a table of recommended upshift speeds, but as a general rule of thumb, consider shifting between 2000 and 3000 rpm - although in some small engines that make power higher in the rev band shifting around 3500rpm can drop you to a better part of the power band in the next gear. This can be quite different for different cars, as a rule of thumb its a good idea to shift up around 500rpm above the revs the engine does in top gear at 100kph[citation needed] (Note that in a diesel you will usually have to shift at a lower rpm, and the redline is likely to be lower.)

For maximum acceleration, one may shift just before reaching the redline, but for ordinary driving, to conserve fuel, one should shift between a little above the engine's maximum torque speed and the lowest engine speed possible without "lugging" the engine. With practice, you will be able to tell when to do this by the sound of the engine.

To upshift:

 * Release the accelerator pedal. Alternatively, if you are experienced enough to shift quickly, you may be able to partially release and then reapply the accelerator pedal at the same time as declutching and shifting.
 * Press and hold the clutch pedal with your left foot.
 * Reapply throttle to a level appropriate for the higher gear. If you are experienced enough to shift quickly and smoothly, you may be able to partially release the accelerator pedal while shifting, and the engine will roughly synchronise. Alternatively if you shift quickly enough, reapply the throttle after reengaging the clutch.
 * Move the gear shift knob, depending on the gear that is currently selected:
 * To shift from an odd-numbered gear (i.e. 1st or 3rd) into the next highest gear, move the shift knob down, through neutral, to the corresponding position on the bottom row.
 * To shift from an even-numbered gear (i.e. 2nd or 4th) into the next highest gear, move the shift knob up to neutral, one column to the right, then up to the new position on the top row.
 * Smoothly release the clutch pedal, allowing the new, lower engine speed to match up with the vehicle's speed.

If you take longer than a second or so to upshift, the engine will probably have slowed down too much for the new gear, and the car will probably jerk backward a bit unless you increase throttle to compensate. Don't increase the throttle too much though, or the engine will be going too fast for the new gear and the car will jerk forward. Once your skill at "matching revs" improves you can release the clutch pedal more quickly without any jerkiness.

Downshifting
When decelerating in any gear above second gear, shift down when the engine is turning at too low a speed for the current gear. The speed that constitutes "too low" varies among vehicles, and you can afford to keep it in a higher gear if little acceleration is needed, but as a rule of thumb, consider downshifting when the engine reaches 1500 RPM. With some practice, you will be able to hear the engine speed and make this judgement.

Although rapid acceleration is never really necessary, it often saves time, can sometimes help to merge into moving traffic and is enjoyable to some people. For rapid acceleration or to climb a steep grade, while the car is already moving in a higher gear, one downshifts, to increase the engine's revs to a point at which it can produce more power. (Beginners may prefer to stop and shift into first before climbing a hill.)

If you notice the RPM decreasing steadily to a low value while climbing a steep hill, despite having a firm foot on the throttle, you should immediately switch to a lower gear or the car may stall and roll down the hill.

It is important not to shift into too low a gear for the car's speed: for instance, shifting into second at highway speeds. Firstly, it should be known that this is bad for the transmission even before the clutch is released. Downshifting into a low gear at high speed causes the input side of the transmission (which connects to the engine via the clutch) to spin excessively fast, possibly much faster than the maximum redline of the engine. This creates stresses in the machinery, and also undue wear on the synchronizers which are doing the job of spinning up the input shaft. Of course, if the clutch is engaged while the transmission input shaft is spinning beyond the engine's "red line", the engine will likely be severely damaged. (In this case, even the engine control computer's rev-limiting function cannot help, as the engine is being driven by the momentum of the car). It is always safe to downshift to the next lower gear when the engine is turning at too low a speed for the current gear. If you "miss" a downshift and hear the engine revving too fast as you let out the clutch, immediately push the clutch back in and shift into a higher gear. Also, pay attention to signs of missing a downshift even before the clutch is released. It takes time to spin up the transmission input shaft to an excessive RPM, and so the stick is more difficult to push into gear if the wrong gear is selected. Also, there may be an audible high pitched whine, similar to an electric drill, as parts of the transmission spin up to a high RPM during the shift.

Due to the larger differences in gear ratio between first and second gear, it's usually best not to downshift into first gear unless you plan to be driving very slowly for some time. Instead, stay in second gear and disengage the clutch when you're about to come to a stop. In some special cases (very steep slopes, crawling traffic) first gear can be useful, however. In some vehicles, it is easier to shift into first gear from a stop than to downshift from second.

To downshift:

If you don't match the engine's speed properly for the lower gear, the car will probably jerk a bit. Once your skill at "matching revs" improves you can release the clutch pedal more quickly without any jerkiness.
 * Release the accelerator pedal, unless you are skilled enough to only partially reduce the throttle.
 * Press and hold the clutch pedal with your left foot.
 * Reapply throttle to a level appropriate for the current speed of travel in the lower gear. This is (somewhat) optional, since gradually releasing the clutch will adjust for a slight mismatch, however if you completely release the accelerator while at the same time shifting too slowly you are likely to have the car jerk somewhat.
 * Move the gear shift knob, depending on the gear that is currently selected:
 * To shift from an even-numbered gear (i.e. 2nd or 4th) into the next lowest gear, move the shift knob up, through neutral, to the corresponding position on the top row.
 * To shift from an odd-numbered gear (i.e. 3rd or 5th) into the next lowest gear, move the shift knob down to neutral, one column to the left, then down to the new position on the bottom row.
 * Gradually release the clutch pedal, allowing the new, higher engine speed to match up with the vehicle's speed.
 * Adjust the throttle as necessary to decrease, maintain, or increase vehicle speed.

Putting it All Together
In actual driving, the individually learned skills of modulating engine torque with the clutch and shifting gears are performed together. Decisions are made on-the-fly and sometimes they have to be canceled or pre-empted as predictions about traffic dynamics turn out to be incorrect. It takes several months of practice before the skills are nearly internalized, and anywhere up to a year of daily driving to become a completely smooth, confident, manual transmission driver who ensures that the machine is always in the correct state in every situation. These are a few tips beyond starting, stopping and shifting:

Sharp Turns
Situation: The driver wishes to turn at an upcoming corner. Coming to a full stop is not required.

Corners are taken at a fairly slow speed, which corresponds to the typical car's second gear: some 30 km/h or even slower. This means that accelerating out of the corner will require the transmission to be in second gear.

The steps are:

 * The driver applies pressure to the brake pedal to slow the vehicle down, leaving the transmission in whatever gear it is in.
 * Moments before approaching the corner, the car should be travelling at a speed in which second gear may be selected. The driver presses the clutch all the way to the floor and shifts into second gear.
 * The clutch is released to complete the shift just before the steering is turned to execute the turn.
 * Through the turn, the transmission remains in second gear.
 * Coming out the turn, the driver begins to accelerate and straighten the steering.
 * By the time the driver shifts to third gear, the car is travelling straight.

By avoiding a transmission shift in the turn itself, the driver can steer with both hands. In some countries or states—such as British Columbia, Canada—if a new driver takes a licensing road test in a manual transmission, points are deducted for shifting in a turn, because there are safety issues with doing so.

Slow-Moving Traffic
Situation: the driver finds himself or herself in a heavily congested flow of traffic. Sometimes the cars ahead come to a full stop. In between stops they sometimes crawl at approximately a walking pace, and at other times speed up substantially only to rapidly slow down again.

In this situation, stressful for a new manual transmission driver, it is important that the driver remain calm and focused. The driver must remember that to prevent the engine from stalling at any time, all that is required is to depress the clutch pedal all the way down.

The trick is to keep moving smoothly while maintaining a generous gap to the next car, and stop and resume if necessary. It should all be done without slipping the clutch.

The driver should monitor the traffic as far ahead as visibility allows, to anticipate whether a complete stop is about to become necessary.

The driver should keep the transmission in second gear if possible and apply a light pressure to the accelerator pedal so that the vehicle slowly crawls forward. In first and second gear, particularly in first, the car is capable of moving very slowly without the engine stalling, or the necessity to slip the clutch. The manual transmission driver must learn to recognize situations in which it's useful to crawl slowly, and take advantage of the transmissions and engine's ability to do so.

But if an impending full stop is anticipated, the clutch is pressed all the way to the floor, and the other foot begins to brake. One of two events then happen:

 * The car ahead in fact comes to a complete stop. After that, of course, the transmission must be put in first gear and an ordinary start must be performed, albeit this is probably very gentle start, since the car isn't about to accelerate anywhere fast! It's useful to practice slow starts in a parking lot, which is another situation in which they are useful. The goal is to quickly get the car rolling in first gear and let the clutch out all the way, but then remain at the low speed. This requires gentle throttle work to only maintain the RPMs a bit above idle during clutch engagement. As the clutch grabs, pressure on the accelerator stays light: it is not increased as would be the case if the intent were to accelerate.

 * The car ahead does not come to a complete stop, but instead speeds up. Now, a decision must be made whether to release the clutch, stay in second gear, or to downshift to first gear. This depends entirely on the vehicle's speed and how much torque its engine has at very low RPMs. In time, experience with that particular vehicle will furnish the driver with the requisite intuition. (If the speed is very slow, less than about 5 mph or 8 km/h, it's possible to downshift to first gear in just about any car, even ones which can handle moving at these slow speeds in second gear). If downshifting to first gear is necessary, it is done without bringing the car to a complete stop. Releasing the clutch in this situation is different from releasing the clutch in first gear during a start from a complete stop. The clutch can be released much faster in first gear if the car is slowly rolling forward at about walking speed.

After downshifting to first gear, if that was necessary, the car can stay in that gear, with the clutch fully engaged. Very slow crawling can be achieved in first gear. Once the crawling is fast enough to take the engine RPM's into the 1500-2000 range, second gear should be selected once again. Again, anticipation of traffic ahead is very useful. If cars are stopping ahead, creating a backward-propagating wave of stoppage, there is no point in switching to a higher gear. It's better to just continue to crawl in first, and then disengage the clutch and apply pressure to the brake when the stop comes. Better yet, if possible, the driver can allow the engine braking effect in first gear to create a larger gap to the next car, and use the space, together with the slow crawling capabilities of first gear, to avoid stopping entirely.

With practice, these shifts between first and second gear in heavy traffic become second nature, as will the traffic monitoring and anticipation which eliminates unnecessary stopping, shifting and clutch work.

The Canceled Stop
Situation: the driver is approaching an intersection where traffic is stopped at a red light. He or she is following the manual transmission technique for coasting to a stop. However, just as the approach is nearly complete, the light changes and it's not necessary to come to a full stop. The stop manoeuver is preempted, and a dynamic decision must be made about how to proceed. The key input to this decision is the vehicle speed, which determines what gear the vehicle should be in.

 * If the vehicle almost came to a stop, and is rolling forward only very slowly less than 5 mph or 8 km/h, the driver may shift into first gear. At this speed, the driver should already have pressed the clutch all the way to the floor, in preparation for coming to a full stop. Because the car is rolling, the clutch can be released quite rapidly. (But if first gear is inappropriately selected at too high a speed, and the clutch is released rapidly, there will be a jerk!)

 * If the speed is above approximately 5 mph or 8 km/h, but below around 20 mph or 30-35 km/h, the driver should select second gear, release the clutch fairly quickly and proceed.

 * If the traffic change occurs above these speeds, resuming is possible in third gear. In fact, it's possible that the transmission is still in third gear and the clutch hasn't even been pressed down. In other words, it may be possible to just step on the accelerator and resume.

The tricky cases are the near-stops when the car is still rolling. The driver must select the correct gear based on speed, and be confident that a quick clutch release can be executed without stalling or jerking. The speedometer is of little use at these slow speeds. The driver, in fact, must not be staring at the speedometer and trying to reason about the correct gear. Rather, intuition for this must be learned through practice.

Stalling
When a vehicle's engine is turning at low speeds it is unable to provide much torque, and placing excessive demand on the engine will cause it to stop running suddenly, an event known as a stall. Stalling usually causes sudden jerking movements of the vehicle.

The following behaviours are likely to cause stalls:
 * at a standstill, engaging the clutch too quickly, while the engine is turning too slowly;
 * coming to a stop with the clutch engaged and the transmission in gear.
 * trying to start from a standstill in high gear

If the driver stalls the engine, they should not panic. It happens to all beginners and even occasionally to experienced drivers, and it's nothing to be ashamed of. In order to get going again and not to hold up traffic, the driver can simply keep the brake and clutch depressed, then restart the engine (note that the key often needs to be turned back to its off position before the starter will operate again), select the correct gear if necessary, and then drive off.

If at any time the driver senses that the engine is about to stall, the clutch should immediately be depressed. If the driver gets scared or needs to come to a stop quickly, it is important to step on the clutch while instinctively hitting the brakes, otherwise the engine will probably stall.

The clutches in different vehicles vary in their sensitivity and range of movement, so even a very experienced driver in an unfamiliar vehicle can stall its engine a few times until he or she becomes familiar with its clutch.

Stalling due to loss of traction while braking
When decelerating, a driver will apply brakes and then disengage the clutch shortly before stopping (around 1000 RPM in 1st gear or somewhere above "walking speed" as above). In normal conditions with good traction, this is fine. However, on some surfaces, and depending on the severity of the braking, without an Anti-lock Braking System, the wheels can lock up. This can happen easily on slippery surfaces like snow, ice and loose gravel. The poor traction on such surfaces can prevent the momentum of the car from turning the wheels, which leaves the engine as the only real force for the brakes to oppose.

When this happens, the first priority is to bring the vehicle safely to a stop or to regain braking and steering control. See also cadence braking, an important skill for winter drivers without ABS equipped vehicles.

Grinding Gears
A grinding sound coming from a synchronized manual transmission during a shift is usually a sign of improper technique. Some hobbyist drivers blame the machinery: they claim that the synchro mechanism is worn, or there is some issue with the manual transmission lubricant. This comes up again and again in online automotive forums. In fact, the synchro mechanism would have to be completely gone for this to be true, and it's almost certainly not an issue with the lubricant.

Why does grinding happen in a synchronized transmission? It's because the overly zealous driver engages the clutch too fast, in parallel with moving the gearshift, in an attempt to minimize the overall shift time. Or, perhaps the driver is doing everything in the correct sequence, but failing to press the clutch far enough! Or, the driver has pushed the gearshifter very fast into the shift gate causing the synchronizer to be jammed up against the gear too quickly, and not allowed to do its job. Either way, the gear selector has already "passed through" the synchronizer, but not gone far enough for the teeth to actually engage. At this point, if the clutch is engaged, even slightly, the speed of the input shaft will change, and the synchronization will be lost. Since the selector has already been pushed through the ring, it's too late: the stick can be moved so that the teeth make contact. The result is grinding.

Quite possibly, there could be a problem with the clutch: perhaps it is not disengaging all the way when the pedal is being pressed to the floor. The pedal might need adjustment, or there is some problem with the hydraulics or mechanical linkage, or other problem with the clutch mechanism itself. But here we are assuming that there is no mechanical problem.

To avoid grinding, do the waltz: think 1-2-3. On the count of 1, press the clutch all the way down to the floor. On the count of 2, move the stick to the desired gear. On 3, release the clutch. To speed up the gear change, you must speed up these motions individually, and not "cheat" by trying to overlap steps 2 and 3. There is little room for that. In particular, the lever must be in the final position before the clutch moves off the floor. Where you can save time is by tightly combining 1 and 2. Push or pull on the stick while pressing the clutch, to get it moving as soon as possible. Practice the waltz: count 1-2-3 in your head. Try doing it very slowly, and then speed up the tempo.

To do a fast gear change without grinding, push the clutch pedal to the floor as fast as possible, in advance of moving the stick, but start moving the stick even before the clutch hits the floor. The clutch should be all the way down as the stick passes through the neutral position to the other gear, and should remain floored. Move the stick as fast as possible from one gear to the other, using speed and force. You should feel a resistance followed by a click; that's the resistance of the synchro, which needs time to do its job before allowing the selector to proceed. Finally, release the clutch. This is the slowest part of the transaction, but with practice, it can be sped up significantly.

The common mistake that causes grinding is not moving the stick fast enough before releasing the clutch; failing to coordinate the two motions. Sometimes drivers complain about grinding during steep gear changes, when the engine is revved to a high RPM in the lower gear. The synchro has to do more work to slow down the input shaft of the transmission to match up the next gear! This takes more time, but the driver is not adjusting for it. He or she is not waiting for the lever to pop through the synchro, and is releasing the clutch using a rehearsed timing, independently of what is going on in the gearbox. The foot doesn't know what the hand is doing and vice versa! The foot must be trained to wait for the hand to complete the gear selection.

Another situation in which grinding can be heard is when placing the transmission into reverse from a stopped position, e.g., when leaving a parking space. Grinding occurs here in part because reverse is often not a synchromesh gear. If one does not leave the transmission in reverse or a forward gear when parked, it is likely that  s/he will hear grinding in the transmission when shifting into reverse no matter how far the clutch pedal is held in when shifting. To avoid grinding in reverse, one must "clear the gate": first place the gear shift into a forward gear, then shift into reverse. This will eliminate any grinding that is heard. It works because all gears have the same speed when the car is stopped. On most 5-speed synchromesh transmissions, the gates will lock out a shift from 5th gear down into reverse as a safety feature; therefore, place the shifter into another forward gear before shifting into reverse. Some old cars have synchromesh on the upper gears but not on 1st, so this procedure should be used every time they are started from a stop. (Some old BMWs had synchromesh on first, for downshifts, but still crunched starting from a stop.)

One last note: the transmission oil can make a difference if the shift is being done improperly. A lubricant that doesn't have the proper friction additives will cause the synchro to take more time, giving rise to more opportunity for premature clutch release. This is why some technically inclined drivers report experiences like "I switched my manual transmission fluid from brand X to brand Y and now I get more (or less) grinding". Some cars also shift more easily when the transmission oil has warmed up; Mazda Miatas and Volkswagen Passats are particularly known for this.

Advanced techniques
This section discusses performance driving techniques, which may be detrimental to the life of the power train and other components of the vehicle.

Easing out of gear (no clutch)
It's possible to shift the transmission into neutral without using the clutch, and some of the other advanced techniques below call for this. However, taking the transmission out of gear may require a great deal of force, because the dog teeth are held in place by great torque between the input and output shafts. Pulling the teeth apart forcefully when they are jammed together by torque wears them. The force required is also demanding on the gear selector linkage and shift forks.

However, when the car is coasting to a stop, the engine eventually reaches a sufficiently low RPM at which there occurs a relaxation of the torque through the transmission. This relaxation can be perceived as a subtle change in the motion of the car; near a certain RPM value, the compression braking effect suddenly disappears, resulting in the sensation of a very slight forward jolt of the vehicle. This loss of the braking effect literally feels like a relaxation; the engine is neither propelling nor hindering the car's motion, because its idle speed is approximately matched to the rotation of the transmission's input shaft. In this condition, it may be acceptable to exert a light tug or push on the gear lever to see whether it can be gently coaxed out of gear. If it pops out easily, there is likely no harm done. On the other hand, if there is resistance, it can be relieved right away by pressing the clutch.

If the transmission remains in gear and the RPM drops further, the relaxation effect will disappear; the idle control mechanism will struggle to keep the engine turning, exerting torque on the slowing transmission. Sometimes the relaxation point is only very brief, or does not occur at all: for instance, when coming to a stop against an incline. The vehicle then decelerates due to gravity, regardless of the compression braking effect. Consequently, there will be only a tiny moment during which the transmission's speed will match the engine idle closely enough. The relaxation point may be located by exerting a continuous gentle force on the gear lever as the vehicle slows down.

Similarly, exerting continuous gentle force over a short period of time and lifting off the throttle (if accelerating), or blipping the throttle (if decelerating) will result in a smooth, clutch-free gear change to neutral. This is because you have created, via modulation of the throttle, a point where there was no torque holding the dog teeth together; if you were accelerating, lifting off for a moment produces a slight deceleration. In between accelerating and decelerating, there was a point where, as noted above, both the driving and the driven shafts, gears, dog teeth, etc. were spinning at the same speed, so there was no torque holding the dog teeth together, so you were able to move to neutral without the clutch.

Power shifting (a.k.a. speed shifting)
This is an advanced technique that gives a speed boost to the car when upshifting. This should only be used in racing applications (and probably only in very short races), as it is very hard on drivetrain components, especially if done improperly. Even done properly, it generally puts undue stress on the drivetrain, and shortens the lifespan of the driveline components.

To perform a power shift, keep the gas pedal on the floor (instead of lifting) while pushing in the clutch. At the same time, quickly shift to the next gear. Quickly re-engage ("pop") the clutch as soon as the new gear is selected. If done properly, the car will receive a "bump" in acceleration (due to the jerk of the decelerating engine) as the clutch is re-engaged. If done improperly, it can result in engine or transmission damage, sometimes catastrophic.

Heel-and-toe
While decelerating, the technique of heel-and-toe shifting allows advanced drivers to maintain pressure on the brake pedal while simultaneously "blipping" the throttle to aid downshifts. This allows the car to remain flat and "level" while entering or exiting a turn. This is done by using the right foot to control both the brake as well as the gas pedal at the same time, normally done by keeping your foot at an angle, thus the term Heel-and-toe.

Double clutching
"Double-clutching" (also known as "double-declutching" in Europe) is an old technique that dates from before the days of synchromesh gear boxes. It can make downshifting (and arguably upshifting) smoother and can reduce transmission wear. It involves depressing the clutch and dropping into neutral, releasing the clutch, using throttle to match revs for the gear to be selected, depressing the clutch again and selecting the new gear. The action (which sounds more complicated than it really is) uses the engine to spin up the input shaft to more closely match the next gear selected hence creating smoother shifts and reducing wear on synchromesh systems. If the car is equipped with a tachometer, it may be used to help find the right engine speed. Some types of unsynchronized manual transmissions require double-clutching. These transmissions may be found in some older vehicles and race cars, as well as on large trucks, especially tractor-trailers. When we say require, if you mishap and pick a wrong gear, or take too long and are unable to double-clutch and match both halves of the transmission, you come to a stop and start all over again.

Double-clutching on a synchronized gearbox is unnecessary in most driving situations. Moreover, it is possible that an unskilled driver may second-guess something that the machine is designed to do automatically, and can cause more harm than good. A true unsynchronized transmission is unforgiving to mismatched speeds, requiring a great deal of precision from the driver. A synchronized transmission will allow the driver to get away with sloppy double-clutching, and an unskilled driver may end up causing more harm by not matching the engine speed properly.

However, even with a synchronized gearbox, double-clutching under skilled hands is desirable when shifting down to the lowest gears. The synchronizer, particularly the one for the second gear, receives much abuse, as the speed differential it has to manage is usually the greatest. It is indeed usually the second gear synchronizer that fails first. Some recent Honda manual transmissions incorporate a triple-cone synchronizer in the lowest gears for extra durability.

Many transmissions until recently did not have a synchronizer on the first gear. It is therefore necessary to double-clutch when downshifting into the first gear, though such instances are rare. Some transmissions today still do not have a synchronizer for the reverse gear, requiring that you come to a complete halt before shifting into reverse (see the "Grinding gears" section above for further implications of this). Double-clutching is of course impossible, as you cannot reverse the direction of the engine rotation. You must simply wait for the car to come to a halt and engine revs to drop to idling.

Single clutching
A downshifting technique similar to a cross between double clutching and shifting without the clutch. The transmission is taken out of gear while the clutch is still engaged. The accelerator is then 'blipped' to bring the input shaft to the correct speed, the clutch is disengaged, the lower gear is selected and the clutch is engaged again. This is a fairly common racing technique.

Some drivers also use an even faster method than single clutch downshifting, which is also the method used in conjunction with heel-toe downshifting. The clutch is disengaged, the driver selects the new gear while "blipping" the throttle up to bring the engine to approximately right speed and then the clutch is engaged again. In other words, as the transmission's synchro changes the rotation of the input shaft during the gear selection, the driver simultaneously adjusts the engine revolution speed. The clutch can be released very quickly if the difference in rotation between the clutch disk and flywheel is small, so this gear change is likely the fastest technique on a synchronized tranmission. Some experienced drivers perform this revolution matching almost instinctively. During the downshift, as the gear selector passes between the gears, they hit the throttle to bring the engine revolutions up. The resulting gear change is not only faster, but it can be much smoother, as well as reduce the wear on the clutch.

Shifting without the clutch
It is possible to shift gears without using the clutch at all, by careful throttle manipulation. When transmissions were unsynchronized this was usually the easiest method, and still works in modern cars, although it requires a lot more practice than the usual methods described above.

Although the technique works in synchronized gearboxes, it is inappropriate in nearly all circumstances. A synchronized gearbox has a small clutch called a synchronizer (or "synchro") in every forward gear which brings the input and output rotation to the same speed before allowing them to engage. Like the main clutch, these synchronizing clutches use friction. These synchronizing clutches will allow for a margin of error when engaging without the main clutch. If the engine speed is somewhat too high or too low, the synchro will essentially take on the job that the fully engaged main clutch isn't doing. However, a synchro ring is not intended to do the job of a main clutch. Its job is to spin up or spin down just the input part of the transmission that is assumed to be disconnected from the engine. It is not intended to speed up or slow down the entire engine. Such experimentation done on a regular basis will prematurely wear out the synchro rings, which will have to be replaced.

On cars with a freewheel, such as the older SAAB with a two-stroke engine, shifting without the clutch is standard procedure. But actually, the freewheel is a form of clutch: one that is disengaged whenever the input rotation is slower than then output rotation. One must disengage the freewheel by allowing the engine revolutions to drop, which is analogous to pressing the clutch pedal.

Starting the vehicle without an electric starter
Should the starter fail to operate due to a dead battery, electrical fault, or a defect in the starter itself, the vehicle may be startable via momentum. The energy to move the vehicle initially can be supplied either by gravity (if the vehicle is parked on a hill), or by people pushing. To start the vehicle on a hill if the vehicle is facing downhill: place the transmission in second gear with ignition key in the "on" position. The clutch should be disengaged (clutch pedal pressed down), release the brake, and allow the car to roll. When it reaches about 10 km/h, release the clutch slowly, as if executing a steep downshift. The car will slow down due to compression braking as the engine spins up. If ignition and fuel are supplied to the engine, it will start. If it does not succeed the first time, try again with more speed. If it still doesn't work, whatever is preventing the engine from starting is also preventing it from running.

The techniques for starting while facing downhill and push-starting are similar. A single person may be able to push-start a compact car or mini-truck; it may take several people to start a larger vehicle. Use reverse gear for starting while facing uphill.

Push starting is easiest and safest with at least two people. The assistants push, while the driver, sitting in the driver's seat, carries out the remaining steps. Push starting on level ground is more difficult and dangerous for a single person. He or she must push the car, and then when enough momentum is gained, jump into the driver's seat of the moving vehicle to complete the start. The driver must also be prepared to jump into the seat at any time to stop the vehicle. Therefore, it is necessary to push the car from the side, with the driver's door open. The driver is positioned behind the open driver's door, and applies force to a frame member of the car body, such as the windshield post or roof post. From this position, one hand can reach the steering wheel, and it's possible to jump into the car quickly.

'Important notes'

 * If the engine turns over when the ignition is activated, but does not start, then the starter is working, and neither push-starting nor jump-starting will start the car. The car needs fuel or repair.

 * If the starter failure was due to a discharged battery, it will recur unless the engine runs long enough to sufficiently recharge the battery.

 * If the starter failure wasn't due to a discharged battery, it will certainly recur. The car will have to continue to be push started, and must be taken to a mechanic to have the starter problem identified and repaired.

 * The alternator in the car is not meant to charge deeply discharged batteries. A proper battery charger includes a current limiting circuit which "trickle charges" the battery. A deeply discharged battery places a load on the car's charging system. Put the battery on a trickle charger at the earliest opportunity.

 * If the battery is completely flat, push starting may not work, because modern cars have an alternator which does not contain permanent magnets. It has coils which require a small field current to generate a magnetic field.

 * Check the condition of the battery first. Some batteries have an hydrometer "eye". If the eye is green, dark green or dark, attempting to push start should be okay. If it's clear or yellow, indicating an insufficient fluid level, don't jump or push start. The battery needs distilled water, and should not be charged. If it's a sealed battery, it should be replaced, since there is no means to add fluid.

 * If the battery is frozen, do not push start or jump start the vehicle. The battery must thaw first. Frozen batteries should not be charged.

 * Read the owner's manual of the vehicle for any special instructions regarding jump starting, and follow whatever reasonably applies to push starting also.

 * If the car has power brakes or power steering, these will not function during the push start until the engine starts. If the car is being started by rolling down a hill and the engine fails to start, a lot of extra brake pressure will be needed to stop it, and extra force on the steering wheel will be needed to steer around any obstacles.

 * Do not push the vehicle with another car or truck; the bumpers may slip, damaging both vehicles.

 * Jumping into a moving car requires a modicum of athletic ability, coordination and daring.

 * Pushing a car is a strenuous athletic effort. It must be done intensely in order to give the car maximum possible momentum in the shortest distance, which carries the same risks of over-exertion and injury as any intense exercise. It may be wise to first perform some light warm-up exercises and stretches involving all of the major muscle groups of the body.

 * When riding a motorcycle, the sudden lock of the back tire when releasing the clutch can throw you in many directions. Drag your feet on the ground as to maintain balance.

Compression braking
This is also called "engine braking": the use of the engine's internal resistance to slow down the vehicle, or keep it from accelerating down a hill. This is done by lifting your foot off the throttle when the engine is running at a speed sufficiently above idle. Shifting the car into a lower gear can amplify the effect.

On the one hand, some feel that you abuse your manual transmission and engine by "engine braking". They feel that you should downshift only when you anticipate that the car will be in a lower speed for some time, not when coming to a full stop. Some feel that the reason why you must keep the car in gear while slowing down or stopped but with the clutch disengaged is for emergency maneuvers, for it will give you the extra time to escape a pending accident. In this case, downshift late, allowing the car to slow to a pretty low engine RPM's before shifting down. This viewpoint says that using the manual transmission to stop the car is inappropriate under normal driving conditions. Simply put, when using the engine to slow the speed of the transmission, the clutch and synchronizers are unnecessarily being worn out for what the car brakes are designed to do. In comparison, the clutch typically costs around US$1,000 to fix as opposed to US$300 for new brake pads and installation. (However, clutches typically last far longer than brakes, so the two cannot be directly compared on price alone.) The method is provided only because one may find it occasionally necessary or useful to use engine braking (when one needs to decelerate more quickly than usual, for instance). If decelerating towards a full stop while in an upper gear, such as 4th, a downshift to a lower gear should be made, as this increases the time that a gear is engaged, therefore keeping the brake and power steering servos engaged and so power is supplied. Coasting time should be kept to a minimum using effective and well-timed downshifts.

On the other hand, some feel that engine braking is relatively harmless to the engine and transmission. Smooth double clutching when down shifting will minimize wear on the clutch and synchronizers. Not picking gears to excessively rev the engine more than 3000rpm, yet not so slow you lose oil pressure. Stay above 500rpm to achieve sufficient oil pressure. As for engine wear, piston rings will be worn more, but keeping the RPM in a relative range will prevent them from stress of expanding and contracting at high speeds with the up and down movement of the piston. Also during deceleration the engine creates a vacuum in the cylinders which pull a very small amount of oil past the rings, increasing protection. This, combined with the fact that the forces involved are typically less than those normally seen during acceleration lead some to conclude that it will make no real difference in the lifetime of the engine and transmission. There is a situation when engine braking is truly called for: going down steep hills which are also very long, and for whatever reason, it is undesirable to pull over and stop the car. Braking downhill for a long time can overheat the brakes leading to brake-fade or, in extreme cases, failure. A combination of gearing down and using the brakes is safer. But heat can be dissipated from brakes also by pulling the car over and letting it stop for a while, effectively dividing the long hill into a sequence of shorter ones.

Engine braking(for large trucks) is illegal in some cities.

A Jake Brake modifies the characteristics of an engine with a push of a button to stop a vehicle.. A special modification is installed in the valve train. In short, when engaged, the force used to compress the air is used to slow the vehicle, then at a precise time, just before the piston reaches Top-Dead center, the exhaust valve is pushed open, expelling the air. On trucks with performance or no mufflers a distinctive, and sometimes painfully loud noise is made as the truck slows, and the pitch changes as the driver shifts to lower gears.

A true engine brake.


text:
Transwiki talk:Manual transmission driving technique

wp hist
* (cur) (last) 18:58, 27 May 2006 Mboverload m (Limited spellcheck + unicode + minor fixes READ ME using AWB) [rollback] [proxycheck] * (cur) (last) 19:34, 24 May 2006 Who8myrice m (→Rapid off-the-line acceleration - changed "tyres" to "tires") * (cur) (last) 21:33, 23 May 2006 24.116.137.181 (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 23:03, 21 May 2006 222.152.5.224 (→Disclaimer) * (cur) (last) 10:02, 21 May 2006 68.9.225.234 (→Easing out of gear (no clutch)) * (cur) (last) 08:32, 17 May 2006 StealthFox m (rvv) * (cur) (last) 07:54, 17 May 2006 Knife Knut m (reverting vandalism) * (cur) (last) 04:38, 17 May 2006 24.34.29.236 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 03:22, 17 May 2006 84.147.172.89 (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 11:56, 15 May 2006 84.147.148.203 (→Stalling - The priority when stalling must be to get going again without holding up traffic, thus selecting neutral is just not necessary. + rewrote in third person) * (cur) (last) 11:46, 15 May 2006 84.147.148.203 (→Starting the engine - Putting the car in neutral to start it is superfluous; car manuals say one should always depress the clutch when starting) * (cur) (last) 17:49, 13 May 2006 M3taphysical m (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 17:29, 13 May 2006 24.202.237.211 (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 04:12, 12 May 2006 CINCABF (→Compression braking) * (cur) (last) 05:28, 11 May 2006 67.80.232.180 (→Stopping in first gear) * (cur) (last) 15:08, 10 May 2006 KazKylheku m (Revert. DFCO really does mean "fuel cut-off". Fuel is not needed for an engine to run if it is driven by the car's momentum.) * (cur) (last) 12:01, 10 May 2006 Radiantmatrix (→Fuel efficiency - corrected "no fuel is used" to "minimal fuel is used". some fuel must be used to allow the engine to continue running.) * (cur) (last) 11:28, 10 May 2006 198.208.159.17 (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 21:37, 7 May 2006 JoeBot m (typo fixing bot: just doing a little house cleaning, using AWB) * (cur) (last) 11:56, 27 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 11:12, 27 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 11:04, 27 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter - Remove irrelevant, inaccurate rambling.) * (cur) (last) 10:40, 27 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter - Missing description: how it's done without assistants.) * (cur) (last) 10:05, 27 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter - Putting car in second gear at the outset won't work for one-person push starrting.) * (cur) (last) 09:57, 27 April 2006 KazKylheku m (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 09:56, 27 April 2006 KazKylheku m (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 14:37, 25 April 2006 196.206.164.152 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 20:22, 24 April 2006 CasbahBoy m (merged last two sentences of first paragraph) * (cur) (last) 17:23, 23 April 2006 69.195.110.41 (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 19:30, 22 April 2006 203.54.225.225 (→Upshifting) * (cur) (last) 04:47, 22 April 2006 84.147.169.127 (→Stopping in first gear) * (cur) (last) 18:24, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Power shifting (a.k.a. speed shifting)) * (cur) (last) 15:09, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Grinding Gears) * (cur) (last) 15:04, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Crash first gears - Merging with Reverse, above.) * (cur) (last) 14:47, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Rapid off-the-line acceleration) * (cur) (last) 14:34, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Stopping in first gear) * (cur) (last) 14:18, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Rapid acceleration) * (cur) (last) 11:43, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Compression braking) * (cur) (last) 11:29, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Fuel efficiency - Road and Track ref. again.) * (cur) (last) 11:06, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Compression braking - I think that was a Dodge Neon.) * (cur) (last) 10:56, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 10:36, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Downshifting - It is much cheaper to learn to doenshift than to have a very big engine.) * (cur) (last) 10:15, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham m (→References - format) * (cur) (last) 10:14, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Fuel efficiency) * (cur) (last) 10:13, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Fuel efficiency) * (cur) (last) 10:12, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Upshifting - See Road and Track ref. below) * (cur) (last) 10:00, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Moving - Intended for beyond the beginner stage.) * (cur) (last) 09:44, 21 April 2006 David R. Ingham (→Starting the engine - This is mostlly from my brother who is a racing mechanic.) * (cur) (last) 19:50, 20 April 2006 24.12.140.174 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 13:14, 20 April 2006 84.147.156.86 * (cur) (last) 13:12, 20 April 2006 84.147.156.86 * (cur) (last) 13:06, 20 April 2006 84.147.156.86 (improved hill-starting section; rewrote in third person; removed irrelevant sentence on cars with automatic transmissions and their parking brakes) * (cur) (last) 12:47, 20 April 2006 84.147.158.242 (why give it gas before even putting it in 1st? Plus, release that brake before moving off...) * (cur) (last) 01:56, 19 April 2006 203.122.69.34 (→Compression braking) * (cur) (last) 19:16, 16 April 2006 StealthFox m (→Putting it All Together - copyedit) * (cur) (last) 16:46, 16 April 2006 StealthFox m (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 16:35, 16 April 2006 StealthFox m (→Stopping in first gear - rm extra carriage return) * (cur) (last) 16:34, 16 April 2006 StealthFox m (→Moving - rm generalisation comment, incorporate into text) * (cur) (last) 16:27, 16 April 2006 StealthFox m (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 15:46, 16 April 2006 84.147.132.242 (removed heel-and-toe as this is discussed both below and in a separate article) * (cur) (last) 07:05, 13 April 2006 84.147.137.213 * (cur) (last) 10:50, 11 April 2006 Esprit15d (changed heading to disclaimer, TOCleft) * (cur) (last) 04:56, 11 April 2006 83.160.38.48 (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 03:44, 10 April 2006 220.239.99.139 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 03:44, 10 April 2006 220.239.99.139 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 23:33, 7 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Easing out of gear (no clutch)) * (cur) (last) 22:47, 7 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Easing out of gear (no clutch)) * (cur) (last) 22:33, 7 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Easing out of gear - New mini-section.) * (cur) (last) 22:20, 7 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Single clutching - Technical errors & spelling.) * (cur) (last) 21:43, 6 April 2006 69.128.28.52 (→Slow-Moving Traffic) * (cur) (last) 11:35, 6 April 2006 12.31.231.197 (→Single clutching) * (cur) (last) 04:24, 6 April 2006 125.253.18.101 (→Slow-Moving Traffic) * (cur) (last) 10:16, 3 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 00:45, 3 April 2006 KazKylheku (→Shift patterns - Parking in opposite gear to slope is a superstition. Not putting it in gear when on a hill for fear of transmission damage is a false evaluation of risk.) * (cur) (last) 05:28, 1 April 2006 84.147.187.216 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 15:29, 31 March 2006 24.86.150.244 (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 15:27, 31 March 2006 24.86.150.244 (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 14:40, 31 March 2006 24.86.150.244 (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 06:47, 31 March 2006 82.47.247.102 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 06:21, 31 March 2006 TGC55 (→Starting on an upslope - qualified auto trans "P" system) * (cur) (last) 06:19, 31 March 2006 TGC55 (→Starting on an upslope - qualified foot operated parking brake information) * (cur) (last) 04:54, 31 March 2006 TGC55 (→Cautions - legal constraints to auto trans driver's license endorsement) * (cur) (last) 14:05, 30 March 2006 Cwjh (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 12:09, 30 March 2006 KazKylheku m (Reverting unnecessary grammar fix; "remain calm" and "focus" are verb phrases, serving as parallel conjunction elements.) * (cur) (last) 09:30, 29 March 2006 70.124.201.211 (→Slow-Moving Traffic) * (cur) (last) 12:30, 27 March 2006 200.18.97.3 (→The Canceled Stop) * (cur) (last) 12:03, 27 March 2006 200.18.97.3 (→Putting it All Together) * (cur) (last) 06:55, 27 March 2006 86.133.30.55 (Word 'handicapped' replaced with the more accurate and acceptable 'disabled') * (cur) (last) 10:30, 26 March 2006 213.219.187.165 (→Stalling due to loss of traction while braking - Removed astonishingly dangerous advice when braking on slippery surfaces. In such cases LEAVE CLUTCH ALONE) * (cur) (last) 10:21, 26 March 2006 213.219.187.165 (→Stalling - engage the main brake ... shift into neutral; not doing so may fail a driving test) * (cur) (last) 09:58, 26 March 2006 213.219.187.165 (→Starting on an upslope - normalise hand brake->parking brake; remember to rerelease main brake too) * (cur) (last) 09:41, 26 March 2006 213.219.187.165 (→Shifting - fix bad shifting advice: release accelerator before disengage clutch, otherwise engine can overrev) * (cur) (last) 07:51, 26 March 2006 213.219.187.165 (→Moving - rewrite to correct omissions concerning selecting first gear. Section also needs a style review.) * (cur) (last) 07:24, 26 March 2006 213.219.187.165 (→Starting the engine - depressing the clutch pedal alone is insufficient to select neutral! Also brakes should be engaged first of all. Rewrote for safety.) * (cur) (last) 18:04, 23 March 2006 70.66.184.166 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 06:18, 18 March 2006 60.241.5.105 (replaced the word 'stomp' with 'depressed'. sounds more professional) * (cur) (last) 17:56, 17 March 2006 Discospinster m (Revert to revision 44272163 using popups) * (cur) (last) 17:47, 17 March 2006 67.165.140.206 (→Shifting) * (cur) (last) 15:38, 17 March 2006 KazKylheku m (Revert last change that adds a grammar error.) * (cur) (last) 14:41, 17 March 2006 71.107.165.205 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 01:33, 4 March 2006 KazKylheku (→The Canceled Stop) * (cur) (last) 01:06, 4 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Slow-Moving Traffic) * (cur) (last) 00:45, 4 March 2006 KazKylheku (→The Canceled Stop) * (cur) (last) 19:58, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Learning to drive with a manual transmission - Oops, have to rearrange sections.) * (cur) (last) 19:56, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Sharp Turns) * (cur) (last) 19:51, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→The Canceled Stop) * (cur) (last) 19:47, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Slow-Moving Traffic) * (cur) (last) 19:45, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Slow-Moving Traffic) * (cur) (last) 19:45, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Slow-Moving Traffic) * (cur) (last) 19:42, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Slow-Moving Traffic) * (cur) (last) 19:41, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Basics - new beyond-the-basics section.) * (cur) (last) 11:01, 3 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter - Eliminate bogus advice about popping the clutch suddenly. This is what jars the driveline components. More notes added.) * (cur) (last) 18:13, 2 March 2006 KazKylheku (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 00:35, 28 February 2006 70.66.67.230 (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 00:22, 28 February 2006 70.66.67.230 (→Starting the vehicle without an electric starter - typos) * (cur) (last) 00:17, 28 February 2006 70.66.67.230 (→Advanced techniques - Starting without an electric starter) * (cur) (last) 15:25, 26 February 2006 Ian Pitchford (AWB assisted clean up) * (cur) (last) 17:16, 25 February 2006 71.98.14.228 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 10:01, 18 February 2006 24.255.228.38 (→Grinding Gears) * (cur) (last) 21:00, 16 February 2006 Gm1121983 (→Learning to drive with a manual transmission) * (cur) (last) 09:11, 14 February 2006 64.236.163.23 (→Learning to drive with a manual transmission) * (cur) (last) 04:17, 11 February 2006 203.129.46.121 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 08:43, 7 February 2006 137.205.148.73 (→Grinding Gears) * (cur) (last) 11:51, 2 February 2006 Spaceman85 m (→Theory - typo) * (cur) (last) 17:33, 31 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 17:33, 31 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 17:32, 31 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 15:18, 30 January 2006 Foodisforeating m (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 14:55, 30 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 21:35, 29 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 21:34, 29 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 21:33, 29 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 21:28, 29 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 21:23, 29 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 21:22, 29 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 09:55, 29 January 2006 Knife Knut (→Theory - engine self destruction) * (cur) (last) 21:31, 28 January 2006 132.170.47.67 (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 12:03, 28 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (→Moving - spelling) * (cur) (last) 12:03, 28 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (→Moving - Missed one instance of first person.) * (cur) (last) 12:01, 28 January 2006 205.250.152.182 (Get rid of first person all the way up to Stopping in First Gear section by using a bit of passive voice and third person "the driver". Will do more when I have time later.) * (cur) (last) 17:59, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Winter driving and stalling) * (cur) (last) 17:55, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (Moving "winter driving and stalling" into troubleshooting.) * (cur) (last) 17:53, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (Moving Stalling into troubleshooting section.) * (cur) (last) 17:51, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Grinding Gears) * (cur) (last) 17:51, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Fuel efficiency - Ooops, wrong way, last edit.) * (cur) (last) 17:50, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Fuel efficiency - Not really one of the above advanced driving technique; should not be a subheading.) * (cur) (last) 17:49, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Advanced techniques) * (cur) (last) 17:46, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 17:43, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Starting on an upslope - Grinding gears appeared to be a subsection.) * (cur) (last) 17:43, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 17:42, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (Getting rid of the "riding the clutch" heading because it's not a general paragraph about riding the clutch. It is related to upslope starting.) * (cur) (last) 17:41, 25 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Riding the clutch - add comma.) * (cur) (last) 20:07, 22 January 2006 206.191.28.183 (→Winter driving and stalling) * (cur) (last) 20:04, 22 January 2006 206.191.28.183 (→Basics) * (cur) (last) 19:22, 22 January 2006 206.191.28.183 (→Shifting) * (cur) (last) 19:05, 22 January 2006 206.191.28.183 (→Shifting) * (cur) (last) 14:00, 22 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 13:59, 22 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 13:58, 22 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 13:57, 22 January 2006 24.83.96.126 (Upslope starting cleanup. Removing dubious techniques which are damaging to the equipment and that should not be recommended by a Wikipedia article.) * (cur) (last) 13:39, 21 January 2006 201.34.113.208 (→Upshifting) * (cur) (last) 16:10, 17 January 2006 158.143.162.119 (→Compression braking) * (cur) (last) 14:23, 16 January 2006 TomTheHand m (→Upshifting - link to power band) * (cur) (last) 08:39, 13 January 2006 Prichardson (Some transmissions DO have a reverse gear synchromesh) * (cur) (last) 02:45, 12 January 2006 Benapgar (→Compression braking - see compression braking) * (cur) (last) 23:54, 31 December 2005 63.162.8.89 (→Riding the clutch) * (cur) (last) 00:43, 30 December 2005 Ouuplas m (→Shift patterns - Added another shift pattern image I made.) * (cur) (last) 00:14, 30 December 2005 Ouuplas m (→Shift patterns - Made better image, original did not display correctly for me.) * (cur) (last) 17:02, 29 December 2005 24.83.96.126 (→Grinding Gears) * (cur) (last) 16:15, 24 December 2005 Ayteebee (→Advanced techniques - Added section on Single clutching) * (cur) (last) 15:44, 24 December 2005 Ayteebee m (→Fuel efficiency - Added sentence on diesels in 'shift earlier' paragraph) * (cur) (last) 15:40, 24 December 2005 Ayteebee m (→Fuel efficiency - Adjusted phrasiology to clarify sentence) * (cur) (last) 05:48, 23 December 2005 203.54.225.181 (→Upshifting) * (cur) (last) 05:43, 23 December 2005 203.54.225.181 (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 16:25, 9 December 2005 72.145.247.252 (→Upshifting) * (cur) (last) 16:17, 9 December 2005 72.145.247.252 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 07:26, 25 November 2005 CBDunkerson (Adding suggested move notice - instruction manual) * (cur) (last) 23:44, 16 November 2005 Telestylo (Rev edit by 144.98.76.45 to "Stalling" subsection, added bit about clearing the gate in reverse. Removed several instances of second person usage.) * (cur) (last) 04:44, 16 November 2005 155.192.33.17 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 04:30, 16 November 2005 144.98.76.45 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 04:30, 16 November 2005 144.98.76.45 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 19:59, 7 November 2005 66.234.86.71 (→Compression braking) * (cur) (last) 16:08, 7 November 2005 68.196.237.22 (→Fuel efficiency) * (cur) (last) 07:06, 5 November 2005 Shaun F   * (cur) (last) 23:15, 31 October 2005 Pne m (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 16:42, 31 October 2005 71.110.247.128 (→Moving - deleted irrelevency) * (cur) (last) 20:20, 30 October 2005 201.252.196.251 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 23:40, 29 October 2005 Telestylo (Rev edit by 24.16.123.63 to previous revision by 82.42.83.127) * (cur) (last) 13:24, 29 October 2005 24.16.123.63 (→Power shifting (a.k.a. speed shifting)) * (cur) (last) 15:57, 19 October 2005 82.42.83.127 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 15:56, 19 October 2005 82.42.83.127 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 15:54, 19 October 2005 82.42.83.127 (→Compression braking) * (cur) (last) 15:32, 19 October 2005 82.42.83.127 (→Fuel efficiency) * (cur) (last) 17:46, 18 October 2005 66.177.103.215 (→Compression braking) * (cur) (last) 19:04, 16 October 2005 Angela m (Reverted edits by 70.188.239.64 to last version by 205.211.145.240) * (cur) (last) 19:04, 16 October 2005 70.188.239.64 (→Power shifting (a.k.a. speed shifting)) * (cur) (last) 08:30, 14 October 2005 205.211.145.240 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 17:26, 6 October 2005 214.13.15.115 * (cur) (last) 09:44, 5 October 2005 70.89.84.49 (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 09:37, 5 October 2005 70.89.84.49 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 16:39, 3 October 2005 24.83.96.126 (→Grinding Gears) * (cur) (last) 16:21, 3 October 2005 24.83.96.126 (→Grinding Gears) * (cur) (last) 16:17, 3 October 2005 24.83.96.126 (→Grinding Gears) * (cur) (last) 16:12, 3 October 2005 24.83.96.126 (→Riding the clutch) * (cur) (last) 16:52, 20 September 2005 71.0.93.16 (→Compression braking) * (cur) (last) 01:52, 17 September 2005 Wildqat (→Power Shifting (a.k.a. Speed Shifting) - Style change to heading) * (cur) (last) 01:51, 17 September 2005 Wildqat (→Power Shifting - Almost complete rewrite, expanding on technique and dangers involved) * (cur) (last) 22:00, 14 September 2005 128.151.43.68 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 21:59, 14 September 2005 128.151.43.68 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 10:06, 7 September 2005 Boho (Corrected inaccuracies in double-clutching, removed rants.) * (cur) (last) 19:11, 31 August 2005 Pearle m (Changing to ) * (cur) (last) 19:32, 29 August 2005 200.117.221.82 (Added cleanup template) * (cur) (last) 12:23, 22 August 2005 82.18.247.158 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 12:18, 22 August 2005 82.18.247.158 (→Starting the engine - handbrake) * (cur) (last) 14:09, 19 August 2005 Kiscica (→Fuel efficiency - Actually, an overrun cutoff valve shuts off fuel injection while coasting in gear, engine is driven by wheels) * (cur) (last) 15:22, 18 August 2005 199.64.0.252 (→Fuel efficiency - - When coasting some fuel is used because the engine is still running.) * (cur) (last) 03:25, 16 August 2005 Kiscica (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 03:21, 16 August 2005 Kiscica (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 03:21, 16 August 2005 Kiscica (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 03:02, 16 August 2005 Kiscica m (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 03:01, 16 August 2005 Kiscica (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 02:46, 16 August 2005 Kiscica (→Upshifting) * (cur) (last) 02:34, 16 August 2005 Kiscica (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 21:06, 15 August 2005 Lethe m (→Shifting without the clutch - typo) * (cur) (last) 21:02, 15 August 2005 Lethe m (→Double clutching - fix link) * (cur) (last) 15:00, 29 July 2005 195.137.6.74 (→Fuel efficiency) * (cur) (last) 14:29, 29 July 2005 24.141.168.82 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 18:59, 24 July 2005 24.141.168.82 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 18:58, 24 July 2005 24.141.168.82 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 11:23, 21 July 2005 Spaceman85 (→Fuel Efficiency) * (cur) (last) 11:23, 21 July 2005 Spaceman85 (→Compression Braking) * (cur) (last) 20:05, 20 July 2005 172.159.69.238 * (cur) (last) 19:38, 20 July 2005 69.161.67.97 (→Learning to drive with a manual transmission) * (cur) (last) 10:46, 19 July 2005 208.191.143.203 (→Advanced techniques) * (cur) (last) 12:49, 17 July 2005 Symbolic m (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 10:18, 17 July 2005 Symbolic (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 10:12, 17 July 2005 Symbolic m (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 20:42, 14 July 2005 Milkmandan (→Compression Braking - Encyclopedic tone, removed "wasting fuel" statement which is untrue on nearly all modern vehicles) * (cur) (last) 15:42, 14 July 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Fuel Efficiency) * (cur) (last) 15:41, 14 July 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Compression Braking) * (cur) (last) 15:41, 14 July 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Compression Braking) * (cur) (last) 15:39, 14 July 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Fuel Efficiency) * (cur) (last) 15:38, 14 July 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Fuel Efficiency) * (cur) (last) 14:42, 14 July 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 05:15, 6 July 2005 Evil Monkey m (Reverted edits by 202.130.156.2 to last version by 192.139.122.66) * (cur) (last) 05:12, 6 July 2005 202.130.156.2 (→Theory) * (cur) (last) 05:12, 6 July 2005 202.130.156.2 (→Beginning drivers) * (cur) (last) 05:11, 6 July 2005 202.130.156.2 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 05:11, 6 July 2005 202.130.156.2 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 05:06, 6 July 2005 202.130.156.2 (→Beginning drivers) * (cur) (last) 05:05, 6 July 2005 202.130.156.2 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 14:50, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Fuel Efficiency) * (cur) (last) 14:36, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Fuel Efficiency) * (cur) (last) 14:33, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Fuel Efficiency) * (cur) (last) 14:32, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Fuel Efficiency) * (cur) (last) 13:50, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 13:48, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 13:44, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 13:43, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 13:40, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 13:30, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 13:25, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 13:02, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Some considerations) * (cur) (last) 12:01, 28 June 2005 192.139.122.66 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 16:16, 9 June 2005 207.69.90.98 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 02:13, 6 June 2005 Alai m ('althought' -> 'although'; -- Join and fix more!) * (cur) (last) 10:13, 26 May 2005 Fornadan (rv Correct is small k)   * (cur) (last) 09:30, 26 May 2005 62.255.32.14 (→Moving - km/h > Km/h) * (cur) (last) 21:33, 6 May 2005 67.170.68.76 (wikified) * (cur) (last) 17:59, 3 May 2005 128.211.248.113 * (cur) (last) 09:18, 2 May 2005 Drw25 m (→Double clutching - removed "hi") * (cur) (last) 11:41, 30 April 2005 209.89.95.206 * (cur) (last) 10:34, 30 April 2005 67.100.255.42 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 02:42, 22 April 2005 131.111.8.102 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 11:29, 18 April 2005 64.180.109.90 (When - →Upshifting - you need to decrease throttle, because the gear ratio is taller.) * (cur) (last) 11:28, 18 April 2005 64.180.109.90 (When - →Downshifting - you need to increase throttle, because the gear ratio is shorter.) * (cur) (last) 20:42, 12 April 2005 Lloydd (→Riding the clutch) * (cur) (last) 08:05, 11 April 2005 Pakaran (→Starting on an upslope - parking brake not absolutely needed in my experience) * (cur) (last) 18:02, 9 April 2005 Milkmandan m (Moving everything in "Category:Driving Techniques" to "Cat:Driving techniques") * (cur) (last) 20:43, 1 April 2005 Bloodshedder (mph equivalents) * (cur) (last) 19:06, 27 March 2005 24.9.58.179 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 18:18, 27 March 2005 24.9.58.179 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 08:22, 21 March 2005 165.138.192.9 (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 08:22, 21 March 2005 165.138.192.9 (→Upshifting) * (cur) (last) 08:16, 21 March 2005 165.138.192.9 (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 18:03, 20 March 2005 154.5.85.132 (Detail and clarification added to "Shift Patterns" section.) * (cur) (last) 11:54, 18 March 2005 129.86.163.246 (Changed "dropped" to the more descriptive "disengaged") * (cur) (last) 17:39, 11 March 2005 PHenry (→Starting the engine - clarification) * (cur) (last) 19:37, 3 March 2005 68.155.191.125 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 19:35, 3 March 2005 68.155.191.125 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 19:32, 3 March 2005 68.155.191.125 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 14:18, 15 February 2005 DJ Clayworth (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 14:13, 15 February 2005 DJ Clayworth (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 14:10, 15 February 2005 DJ Clayworth (important piece of advice) * (cur) (last) 14:06, 15 February 2005 140.203.16.76 (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 07:39, 30 January 2005 194.251.240.117 (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 01:43, 3 January 2005 Telso m (→Shift patterns - fixed alignment) * (cur) (last) 23:34, 23 December 2004 69.225.223.187 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 15:42, 15 December 2004 81.153.94.162 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 15:41, 15 December 2004 81.153.94.162 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 15:41, 15 December 2004 81.153.94.162 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 15:39, 15 December 2004 81.153.94.162 * (cur) (last) 14:57, 29 November 2004 Leif m (Category:Driving Techniques) * (cur) (last) 22:23, 27 November 2004 211.30.189.136 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 22:12, 27 November 2004 211.30.189.136 (→Shift patterns) * (cur) (last) 22:12, 27 November 2004 211.30.189.136 (→Riding the clutch) * (cur) (last) 23:37, 25 November 2004 Antandrus m (→Riding the clutch - sp) * (cur) (last) 23:24, 25 November 2004 66.185.84.81 (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 18:02, 25 November 2004 69.37.128.214 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 18:02, 25 November 2004 69.37.128.214 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 15:25, 25 November 2004 64.180.109.90 (Vandals!) * (cur) (last) 12:08, 25 November 2004 69.37.128.214 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 12:08, 25 November 2004 69.37.128.214 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 12:07, 25 November 2004 69.37.128.214 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 12:07, 25 November 2004 69.37.128.214 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 20:40, 7 November 2004 68.111.163.206 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 16:17, 6 November 2004 Saucepan m (→Shifting without the clutch - grm) * (cur) (last) 10:34, 6 November 2004 Liftarn (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 21:36, 5 November 2004 Saucepan m (Reverted edits by 67.83.175.248 to last version by 84.57.65.101) * (cur) (last) 15:22, 5 November 2004 67.83.175.248 (→Shifting without the clutch) * (cur) (last) 11:35, 15 October 2004 84.57.65.101 (→Beginning drivers) * (cur) (last) 11:35, 15 October 2004 84.57.65.101 (→Beginning drivers) * (cur) (last) 10:54, 15 October 2004 84.57.65.101 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 18:23, 1 September 2004 217.43.211.1 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 04:03, 25 August 2004 212.18.162.33 * (cur) (last) 03:56, 25 August 2004 212.18.162.33 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 03:43, 25 August 2004 212.18.162.33 * (cur) (last) 03:42, 25 August 2004 212.18.162.33 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 18:21, 21 August 2004 Acanon m (→Double clutching - sp.) * (cur) (last) 10:47, 20 August 2004 RedWolf m (disambiguation: car) * (cur) (last) 12:34, 19 August 2004 213.51.209.230 (→Cautions) * (cur) (last) 12:33, 19 August 2004 213.51.209.230 (→Upshifting) * (cur) (last) 07:02, 15 August 2004 Taliswolf m (category) * (cur) (last) 06:27, 9 August 2004 208.21.199.93 * (cur) (last) 01:20, 3 August 2004 202.78.253.254 (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 12:34, 22 July 2004 192.12.78.250 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 06:09, 21 July 2004 199.43.14.3 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 12:10, 8 July 2004 198.208.223.35 (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 11:37, 8 July 2004 198.208.223.35 (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 15:48, 2 July 2004 24.47.145.231 (→Double clutching) * (cur) (last) 07:15, 27 June 2004 Fredrik m (seperate ---> separate) * (cur) (last) 17:30, 22 June 2004 AlexCruise m (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 17:28, 22 June 2004 AlexCruise m (→Moving) * (cur) (last) 20:30, 14 June 2004 69.141.188.78 (→Stalling) * (cur) (last) 20:30, 14 June 2004 69.141.188.78 (→Basics) * (cur) (last) 11:29, 4 June 2004 209.167.202.210 (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 11:29, 4 June 2004 209.167.202.210 (→Downshifting) * (cur) (last) 22:33, 31 May 2004 AlexCruise m (Added back bit about clutch-starter interlock) * (cur) (last) 16:10, 31 May 2004 Saucepan (→Beginning drivers - Toned down unusually harsh characterization of new drivers) * (cur) (last) 12:46, 31 May 2004 195.92.67.68 (→Beginning drivers) * (cur) (last) 12:36, 31 May 2004 195.92.67.71 (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 11:18, 31 May 2004 195.92.67.71 (→Starting the engine) * (cur) (last) 22:51, 29 May 2004 AlexCruise m (→Starting on an upslope) * (cur) (last) 12:35, 24 May 2004 Pakaran (=Upshifting=) * (cur) (last) 12:31, 24 May 2004 Pakaran (=Downshifting=) * (cur) (last) 15:52, 17 May 2004 AlexCruise m (=Upshifting= minor grammar cleanup) * (cur) (last) 22:13, 13 May 2004 Saucepan (=Shift patterns= Replaced shift diagram with nicer version using Unicode line-drawing characters) * (cur) (last) 16:30, 13 May 2004 24.19.156.170 (edited shift points) * (cur) (last) 10:45, 7 May 2004 AlexCruise m   * (cur) (last) 10:45, 7 May 2004 AlexCruise m (Added link to Double_clutch) * (cur) (last) 10:41, 7 May 2004 AlexCruise m   * (cur) (last) 10:41, 7 May 2004 AlexCruise m (More hill-start fine tuning) * (cur) (last) 10:35, 7 May 2004 AlexCruise m   * (cur) (last) 10:29, 7 May 2004 AlexCruise m (Added "riding the clutch" bit) * (cur) (last) 14:42, 1 May 2004 207.6.89.235 (Fixed up bit about not downshifting in third gear to reflect opinions of friends) * (cur) (last) 06:15, 30 April 2004 SamH m (Spelling correction) * (cur) (last) 14:27, 28 April 2004 AlexCruise (Beefed up Stalling section) * (cur) (last) 14:10, 28 April 2004 AlexCruise m (Added a bit about cars that don't have a clutch-starter interlock) * (cur) (last) 14:06, 28 April 2004 AlexCruise m   * (cur) (last) 13:59, 28 April 2004 AlexCruise * (cur) (last) 19:55, 27 April 2004 AlexCruise m (Fixed heel-and-toe link) * (cur) (last) 19:54, 27 April 2004 AlexCruise * (cur) (last) 19:46, 27 April 2004 AlexCruise m (Minor link cleanup) * (cur) (last) 19:42, 27 April 2004 AlexCruise m (link fix) * (cur) (last) 19:40, 27 April 2004 AlexCruise (My first cut, should probably go on wikibooks or something)

Change use of American terms
Many paragraphs use the term "gas pedal", which should be replaced with more de-localised terms such as "accelerator" or "throttle". I assume there may be more terms throughout the module. What is the stance on local (American) phrasing in WikiBooks?

Pulling away
-Excuse the fact i don't have a WikiBooks account, my Wikipedia account name is Benbread if you're interested- Anyway, looking at the pulling away part, my driving instructor told me it was always best practice to keep the handbrake engaged, bring the clutch to biting point then disengage the handbrake and pull away, particually useful if starting on a hill! Can someone possibly make this a little clearer in the article? I wont do it as i find it best to not go destroying other people's work before getting a feel for the article first. on the other hand, do others think that this pulling away method is not the most appropriate? Thanks 81.79.171.143 23:52, 1 September 2006 (UTC)

It'll cause additional clutch wear if you do it with the handbrake. Using the the service brake system to hold it at a stop and get yourself going is safer, you can let it out gradually -- hand brake releases are typically spring-loaded ratchets, so it's a very sudden release and hard to time correctly.

As for starting on a hill, it's very common to have to hold the service brake and slowly engage the clutch to get going without sliding back. This is an especially important skill with heavier trucks and delivery vehicles, where people so commonly fail to maintain a safe following distance and there is a lack of rear visibility. 184.153.196.39 (talk) 17:32, 9 October 2010 (UTC)

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
School Science/Mercury cleanup

Mercury and most of its compounds are extremely toxic. Spillage requires specific cleaning procedures to avoid toxic exposure. Inhalation and contact with the skin are dangerous. If you are handling mercury in a school and you spill some you should follow your school's procedure. This will almost certainly involve immediately contacting a teacher or other member of the staff.

Under no circumstances should you try and clean up a spill with a broom or vacuum cleaner. These can cause the mercury to disperse into small droplets or become vapour - both of which are more dangerous.

title: School Science/Mercury cleanup


text:
Talk:School Science/Mercury cleanup

* (cur) (last) 11:51, 27 April 2006 209.123.28.250 * (cur) (last) 13:49, 3 April 2006 Pearle m (Changing wikify to wikify-date March 2006) * (cur) (last) 02:55, 27 March 2006 RHaworth (move to Wikibooks) * (cur) (last) 21:43, 26 March 2006 Fried Chicken
 * (cur) (last) 11:54, 27 April 2006 Bogdangiusca m (Reverted edits by 209.123.28.250 (talk) to last version by Pearle) [rollback] [proxycheck]

title: Talk:School Science/Mercury cleanup


text:
Finnish/Grammar-Conditional

Grammar
The conditional mood expresses the idea that the action or state expressed by the verb may or may not actually happen. As in English, the Finnish conditional is used in conditional sentences e.g.:

 * "Minä kertoisin sinulle jos minä tietäisin" ("I would tell you if I knew")
 * "Minä tulisin jos minä voisin" ("I would come if I could")

and in polite requests e.g.:

 * "Haluaisin vähän kahvia" ("I would like some coffee")
 * "Haluaisin kuulla lisää" (I would like to hear more")

In the former case, and unlike in English, the conditional must be used in both halves of the Finnish sentence:

"ymmärtäisin jos puhuisit hitaammin" = *"I would understand if you would speak more slowly".

The characteristic morphology of the Finnish conditional is 'isi' inserted between the verb stem and the personal ending. This can result in a 'closed' syllable becoming 'open' and so trigger consonant gradation:

tiedän = 'I know', tietäisin = 'I would know'.

cf. haluan = 'I want', haluaisin = 'I would like'.

Conditional forms exists for both definite and indefinite voices, and for present and perfect tenses.

Exercise Number 1
Put the following sentences in conditional.

Example: Minä kävelen -> Minä kävelisin

Exercise Number 2
Form sentences like in the example:

 * osata ruotsia - puhua hänelle ->
 * Jos osaisin ruotsia, (niin) puhuisin hänelle.

 * 1) asua norjassa - olla norjalainen
 * 2) puhua saksaa - muuttaa Saksaan
 * 3) osata ranskaa - puhua hänelle
 * 4) puhua kiinaa - lähteä Kiinaan lomalle
 * 5) pitää mämmistä - syödä sitä
 * 6) tulla rikkaaksi - muuttaa Lappiin
 * 7) elää Keniassa - olla köyhä
 * 8) voittaa lotossa - matkustaa Japaniin.
 * 9) saada paljon rahaa - mennä risteilylle

Exercise Number 3
Make conditional sentences in Finnish according to the hints given in every line. Start every sentence with the word "jos". An example:

 * sinä, johtaja - he, iloisia -> Jos sinä olisit johtaja, (niin) he olisivat iloisia.

 * 1) minä, presidentti - minä, mahtava
 * 2) minä, köyhä - hän, surullinen
 * 3) sinä, hullu - minä, huolestunut
 * 4) hän, rikas - me, iloisia
 * 5) sinä, nopeampi - hän, iloinen
 * 6) me, insinöörejä - he, tyytyväisiä
 * 7) me, miljonääri - me, rikkaita
 * 8) te, laiskoja - he, raivostuneita

Exercise Number 4
In this exercise remove all redundant words you can find, like in the example:

 * Me hiihtäisimme, jos me jaksaisimme. -> Hiihtäisimme, jos jaksaisimme.

 * 1) Minä laulaisin, jos minä osaisin laulaa.
 * 2) Jos minä osaisin uida, niin minä uisin.
 * 3) Jos sinä olisit kuningas, niin sinä olisit mahtava.
 * 4) Hän tulisi tänne, jos minä pyytäisin
 * 5) Jos te selittäisitte, niin hän ymmärtäisi.
 * 6) Jos me olisimme yrittäneet uida sinne, niin me olisimme hukkuneet.

Exercise Number 1
The translations are shown in brackets.

Exercise Number 2
As you may know the word "niin" is optional. There are also translations on the right for your convenience.

 * 1) Jos asuisin Norjassa, (niin) olisin norjalainen. (If I lived in Norway, I would be a Norwegian)
 * 2) Jos puhuisin saksaa, (niin) muuttaisin Saksaan. (If I spoke German, I would move to Germany.)
 * 3) Jos osaisin ranskaa, (niin) puhuisin hänelle. (If I knew French, I would talk to him/her.)
 * 4) Jos puhuisin kiinaa, (niin) lähtisin matkalle Kiinaan. (If I spoke Chinese, I would take a trip to China)
 * 5) Jos pitäisin mämmistä, (niin) söisin sitä. (If I liked mämmi, I would eat it)
 * 6) Jos tulisin rikkaaksi, (niin) muuttaisin Lappiin.
 * 7) Jos eläisin Keniassa, (niin) olisin köyhä.
 * 8) Jos voittaisin lotossa, (niin) matkustaisin Japaniin.
 * 9) Jos saisin paljon rahaa, (niin) menisin risteilylle.

Exercise Number 3

 * 1) Jos minä olisin presidentti, (niin) minä olisin mahtava.
 * 2) Jos minä olisin köyhä, hän olisi surullinen.
 * 3) Jos sinä olisit hullu, minä olisin huolestunut.
 * 4) Jos hän olisi rikas, me olisimme iloisia.
 * 5) Jos sinä olisit nopeampi, hän olisi iloinen.
 * 6) Jos me olisimme insinöörejä, he olisivat tyytyväisiä.
 * 7) Jos me olisimme miljonäärejä, me olisimme rikkaita.
 * 8) Jos te olisitte laiskoja, he olisivat raivostuneita.

Exercise Number 4

 * 1) Laulaisin, jos osaisin laulaa.
 * 2) Jos osaisin uida, uisin.
 * 3) Jos olisit kuningas, olisit mahtava.
 * 4) Hän tulisi tänne, jos pyytäisin.
 * 5) Jos selittäisitte, hän ymmärtäisi.
 * 6) Jos olisimme yrittäneet uida sinne, olisimme hukkuneet.

title: Finnish/Grammar-Conditional


text:
Cookbook:Curried Chiles (Mirchi ka Salan)

| Cuisine of India

Ingredients

 * 2 Tbsp poppy seeds (khus khus)
 * 2 Tbsp sesame seeds (til)
 * 2 Tbsp coriander seeds (dhaniya)
 * 1 Tbsp white cumin (sufaid zeera)
 * 1 Tbsp desiccated coconut powder
 * 5 Tbsp oil
 * ½ kg medium green chiles
 * 6 red chiles
 * 6 fenugreek seeds (methi daana)
 * 6–7 curry leaves
 * 4 large onions, finely chopped
 * 1 tsp red chile powder
 * 1 Tbsp ground turmeric (haldi)
 * Salt to taste
 * 1 Tbsp ginger garlic paste
 * 1 tsp nigella seeds (kalonji)
 * ½ cup tamarind juice

Procedure

 * 1) Lightly roast the poppy seed, sesame seeds, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, and desiccated coconut, then grind in a mortar and pestle.
 * 2) Heat oil in frying pan and use to stir fry the green chiles with some salt. Drain the oil from the green chillies and keep aside.
 * 3) Heat some oil in a pan. Add the red chiles, fenugreek seeds, and a couple of curry leaves, and heat until popping. Add chopped onions, and fry until golden brown.
 * 4) Mix in ground spices, chili powder, turmeric, ginger garlic paste, and nigella seeds. Stir well and cook for 2 minutes.
 * 5) Mix in tamarind juice, and cook for a minute.
 * 6) Add the green chillies and remaining curry leaves, and simmer for 15–20 minutes.
 * 7) Serve with any meat accompaniment or rice dish like biryani.


text:
Cookbook talk:Curried Chiles (Mirchi ka Salan)

* (cur) (last) 19:35, 7 May 2006 Salmaakbar
 * (cur) (last) 20:26, 7 May 2006 Bayyoc [rollback] [proxycheck]

Chili powder?
Should this be chile powder (pure chile) or chili powder (spice blend)? —Kittycataclysm (discuss • contribs) 01:46, 18 March 2024 (UTC)


text:
Transwiki:NIS Configuration on Debian

Basic Configuration
In Debian-based Linux distributions, three files should be modified. enigma NISSERVER=master ypserver 127.0.0.1 In /etc/nsswitch.conf, make sure you have passwd, group, shadow and netgroup entries like this: passwd:        compat group:         compat shadow:        compat netgroup:      nis
 * 1) /etc/defaultdomain
 * 1) /etc/default/nis
 * 1) /etc/yp.conf - ypbind configuration file
 * 1) /etc/nsswitch.conf

Starting Server Daemon
root@enigma:/etc# init.d/portmap start * Starting portmap daemon...  ...done. root@enigma:/etc# init.d/nis start Starting NIS services: ypserv yppasswdd ypxfrd ypbind On success, the following information is expected: root@enigma:/etc# rpcinfo -p localhost program vers proto  port 100000   2   tcp    111  portmapper 100000   2   udp    111  portmapper 100007   2   udp    717  ypbind 100007   1   udp    717  ypbind 100007   2   tcp    720  ypbind 100007   1   tcp    720  ypbind 100009   1   udp    706  yppasswdd 600100069   1   udp    709  fypxfrd 600100069   1   tcp    711  fypxfrd 100004   2   udp    704  ypserv 100004   1   udp    704  ypserv 100004   2   tcp    708  ypserv 100004   1   tcp    708  ypserv Sometimes you might not see ypbind and fypxfrd in the list. You should finish the next step and rerun the command.

Initializing Master Server
root@enigma:/etc# /usr/lib/yp/ypinit -m

At this point, we have to construct a list of the hosts which will run NIS servers. localhost.localdomain is in the list of NIS server hosts. Please continue to add the names for the other hosts, one per line. When you are done with the list, type a . next host to add: localhost.localdomain next host to add: The current list of NIS servers looks like this:

localhost.localdomain

Is this correct? [y/n: y] y We need a few minutes to build the databases... Building /var/yp/enigma/ypservers... Running /var/yp/Makefile... make[1]: Entering directory `/var/yp/enigma' Updating passwd.byname... Updating passwd.byuid... ...... Updating shadow.byname... make[1]: Leaving directory `/var/yp/enigma'

localhost.localdomain has been set up as a NIS master server.

Now you can run ypinit -s localhost.localdomain on all slave server. Be sure to start portmap before typing this command, otherwise you will get an error and have to manually delete /var/yp/enigma.

Adding New Users
It is recommended to add groups and users by using addgroup and adduser scripts, which are able to synchronize NIS information automatically. If not, you should do this manually after adding new groups or users: root@enigma:/etc# cd /var/yp root@enigma:/var/yp# make make[1]: Entering directory `/var/yp/enigma' Updating passwd.byname... Updating passwd.byuid... Updating netid.byname... Updating shadow.byname... make[1]: Leaving directory `/var/yp/enigma' NIS clients should restart /etc/init.d/nis service in order to keep updated.

Basic Configuration
Like server configuration, make sure you have passwd, group, shadow and netgroup entries like this: passwd:        compat group:         compat shadow:        compat netgroup:      nis Then configure NIS domain name and NIS server: enigma ypserver enigma Your /etc/hosts should contain a line like: 192.168.4.131 enigma
 * 1) /etc/nsswitch.conf
 * 1) /etc/defaultdomain
 * 1) /etc/yp.conf
 * 1) /etc/hosts

Modifying Authentication Files
root@nis-client:/etc# echo '+::::::' >> /etc/passwd root@nis-client:/etc# echo '+::::::::' >> /etc/shadow root@nis-client:/etc# echo '+:::' >> /etc/group It is also possible to grant or restrict the access of specified users. It is a little complex and will not be discussed here. Refer to Debian NIS HOWTO if you want to know more.

Starting Client Daemon
root@nis-client:/etc# /etc/init.d/portmap start * Starting portmap daemon...  ...done. root@nis-client:/etc# /etc/init.d/nis start Starting NIS services: ypbind

title: Transwiki:NIS Configuration on Debian


text:
Transwiki talk:NIS Configuration on Debian

* (cur) (last) 16:30, 20 May 2006 Bluebot (bulleting external links using AWB) * (cur) (last) 01:04, 9 April 2006 PseudoSudo (+Move to Wikibooks) * (cur) (last) 01:01, 9 April 2006 Lh3
 * (cur) (last) 07:37, 23 May 2006 164.107.116.100 (→Modifying Authentication Files) [rollback] [proxycheck]


text:
Basic Computer Security/Web Security/Online Security Good Practices

Most people surf the internet for several uses, like getting information about a topic, checking email, shopping, reading, or even selling goods. The internet has made all of these activities easier and faster to achieve with less time and effort. Still, this convenience does not come without a price.

Internet security is a concern for everyone who uses the internet. How can you be sure that your identity, passwords, personal information, shopping information and credit card numbers, etc are all protected and that they are not available for hackers and malicious users. These are some tips that can helps with this:
 * NEVER give your username and password for anyone.
 * MAKE sure you read the privacy policy of the websites that you visit before giving any personal information.
 * If you are shopping online, NEVER shop from an untrusted website. If you have doubt about the website check the privacy policy of that website and any information about their method of protecting that data, if available. If you are still in doubt, then do not shop from that website and keep searching to a more trusted websites.
 * Don't provide you email username and password for any websites that will enable the website to logon to your account automatically. This is a big risk that personal information through emails can be accessed.

There are also some preventive measures that you can take to prevent invasion of keyloggers (programs that record what you typed and send them off through the internet without the user noticing) and trojans onto your computer. These include: 1) Up to date antivirus programme (there are some free ones around that will do a good job, I recommend: AntiVir Guard) 2) Fire wall (yet, another free and reliable one: ZoneAlarm) 3) Anti-adware/spyware: e.g.Ad-Aware and Spybot

Having these programmes will provide you a security of your computer. Though, behaviour practises as discussed in the early part are also essential to provide good online security.


text:
Talk:Basic Computer Security/Web Security/Online Security Good Practices

wp hist
* (cur) (last) 03:42, 17 March 2006 Loom91 m (moved Online Security Good Practices! to Online Security Good Practices) [rollback] [proxycheck] * (cur) (last) 05:17, 24 January 2006 Melaen * (cur) (last) 08:50, 11 January 2006 Melaen * (cur) (last) 23:41, 2 January 2006 TechPurism m   * (cur) (last) 23:41, 2 January 2006 TechPurism (clean up - needs a lot of work) * (cur) (last) 22:37, 22 November 2005 Pearle m (Changing to ) * (cur) (last) 06:59, 22 November 2005 Gurch m (cleanup) * (cur) (last) 06:51, 4 November 2005 Adidasgk (preventive measures) * (cur) (last) 06:51, 4 November 2005 Adidasgk * (cur) (last) 06:47, 4 November 2005 203.173.148.96 * (cur) (last) 06:51, 4 August 2005 142.176.246.34


text:
Template talk:Spanish

New Lessons
Are we ready to add lessons ten and eleven? Lesson ten has not yet been started and lesson eleven is a stub, but lesson eleven at least has a page and it would not make sense to skip from nine to eleven on the template. --Think Fast 19:15, 29 May 2006 (UTC)
 * Well, I added them. --Think Fast 23:39, 20 June 2006 (UTC)

title: Template talk:Spanish


text:
Template:Spanish/Stub

''This page or section of the Spanish book is a stub. You can help Wikibooks by [ expanding it].'' /Stubs

 * This template adds a page to /Stubs.

title: Template:Spanish/Stub


text:
Cookbook:Papadam (Black Gram Flatbread)

| South Asian cuisines

Papadam (also papadum, poppadom, papar, and appalam) is an Indian and Sri Lankan flatbread. Typically, it is prepared using black gram bean flour, rice flour, or lentil flour with salt and peanut oil added. The ingredients are made into a dough and formed into a thin, round shape similar to a tortilla. As the dough is prepared, the papadam can be seasoned with a variety of different ingredients such as chilies, cumin, garlic, black pepper, or other spices.

Papadams are cooked by deep-frying in oil, which causes them to expand and crispen. They may also be cooked by roasting them over an open flame, in a toaster oven, or in a microwave oven. Depending on the cooking method they may be either soft and moist or crisp in texture.

Usually served as a complement to a main dish in South Asia, a relatively recent Western practice is to treat them as a snack or as an appetizer to be topped with chutney, various dips or salsas. Commonly made in different sizes, the smaller ones are for snacks and the larger variety may be used as a food wrap.

Ingredients

 * 8 cups black gram flour
 * 1 tsp cracked black pepper
 * 1 tsp ground cumin seeds
 * ½ tsp salt
 * ¼ cup water (or more if needed)
 * Oil for frying

Procedure

 * 1) Mix together the flour, pepper, cumin, and salt.
 * 2) Add water and knead the dough until it is smooth. You may have to add some water, depending on the flour.
 * 3) Split the dough into 10–15 balls.
 * 4) Roll out one ball at a time to a very thin round layer on a slightly oiled surface.
 * 5) Dry the papadams in the oven for an hour (at about 100°C or 200°F).
 * 6) Keep them in an airtight container.
 * 7) Fry the papadams in oil until they are crispy but not too brown.

title: Cookbook:Papadam (Black Gram Flatbread)