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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Camping Skills IV

2. Plan and execute a one-hour Sabbath camping activity other than worship to make the Sabbath a meaningful experience.
There are many ways to fulfill this requirement.

This Requirement is intended to have the Pathfinder plan an event and engage their fellow Pathfinders in a meaningful Sabbath experience

The Pathfinder may plan a Themed Scavenger Hunt
A themed scavenger hunt is one option. Your Pathfinders can choose a theme, and then come up with as many items as they think can be found at your campsite and which relate in some way to the theme. They may make a list of these items ahead of time, and hand the lists out when the activity begins. They may tell them that all the items relate to a theme, but not tell them what the theme is. They will need 40 minutes to find all the items, and to meet again at the end of that time period. When they return, they should try and guess the theme. If they do not guess correctly, The Pathfinder who planned the event can tell what the theme is. Then each Pathfinder working on the activity takes turns calling for the items. When someone produces it, the Pathfinder will explain how that item relates to the theme. A spiritual lesson should be drawn from the activity. Close with a prayer.

Drawing or Photographing Nature
Many of the honors in the Nature category have the requirement to collect, photograph, or draw a number of creatures (plant or animal) found in nature, such as flowers, ferns, insects, etc. The Pathfinders presenting this activity should bring a field guide so that the chosen creatures can be identified. They may also bring samples of these items with them in case you are unable to find them around your campsite.

If your Pathfinders choose to sketch these items, they need to be sure to bring enough notebooks and pencils (some honors require colored drawings - if so, bring colored pencils) for everyone. If they choose to take photos, each Pathfinder will probably want to bring a camera (disposable cameras are ideal for this).

Collecting specimens is no longer encouraged, as it ends the life of the creature. Furthermore, many species are now endangered, and collecting them is not only unethical, it is illegal as well.

They can also mix photography and sketching. They may wish to have the group set out looking for specimens, and photograph all they can find. Then return and sketch the remainder. If you have only one or two cameras, you may find that this works well for you.

Skits
Choose several Bible stories and divide your Pathfinders into at least two groups of three to eight individuals. Assign each group a Bible story and tell them where it may be found in the Bible. Have each come up with a skit to be presented to the rest of the group. Provide each group with random props and make it a contest between each group to see who can use the most of them. Camping Skills II and III both require such an activity. Your Camping Skills IV students may meet this requirement by organizing the younger units and having them present their work.

Hike
Go on a nature hike. Go along a stream and skip stones.

3. Write a 200-word report or give a two-minute oral presentation on the preservation of the wilderness, discussing etiquette and conservation.
Learning preservation, etiquette, and conservation is a requirement for Camping Skills I and II, so you can have the Pathfinders learning this honor review this material and present it to the younger ones.

Explain the 7 Leave No Trace Principles:

 * Plan ahead and prepare.
 * Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
 * Dispose of waste properly.
 * Leave what you find.
 * Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
 * Respect wildlife.
 * Be considerate of other visitors.

Note: If you ever plan to go camping in a location that allows hunting- such as a national forest, bright colors is an important safety consideration. Camouflaged or dark color tents will not aid hunters in quickly identifying that there are people in the area.

Planning the menu
Use the USDA's food pyramid to choose a balanced menu:

Estimating the cost
To estimate the cost of the food on your menu, you will first need to estimate the quantity. This can be done with a spreadsheet, or by pencil and paper. First consider how much food your average camper will eat from each meal. Then figure out how much you will need for everyone to be able to eat the average amount. Some will eat more, but some will eat less. For example, if you are serving grilled cheese sandwiches, you will need two slices of bread and one slice of cheese per sandwich. Younger Pathfinder will usually eat two of these, but teens will easily eat three. Picky eaters may eat none or only one. It's up to you to guess how may each person will eat. Then multiply it out to see how many slices of bread you will need. There are usually 20 slices of bread in a load. Before figuring out how many loaves of bread you will need, make sure you consider every meal that will use bread (think French toast, PB&J, etc.). When you know the total number of slices you will need, then figure out how many loaves you will need. If your calculations show that you need 82 slices of bread, don't round it down to 80, or someone may not get a sandwich. Always round it up to the next loaf, so 82 slices will require five loaves of bread.

Do the same with each ingredient in your menu. The more you do this, the better your estimates will be. The goal is to come home with very little left over, as this will tell you that everyone got enough to eat, but you didn't waste money on food that will spoil anyhow.

7. Know the wood best suited for making a quick, hot fire.
Wood from conifers (pine, fir, spruce, etc.) contains a lot of highly flammable sap, so it burns both hot and quick. It is excellent for starting a fire. However, it does not leave a bed of coals, so it is unsuitable for cooking.

8. Know the wood best suited for making coals for cooking.
Most hardwoods will leave a good bed of coals, but hickory, mesquite, and oak, are among the best.

11. Prepare a camp dinner with soup, vegetables, entree, and drink, all of which must be cooked.
Of course you can make any dish you like for any of these, but we'll list suggestions anyhow. You can combine chili, kidney beans, and spaghetti to make Cincinnati Chili. Each camper starts with a layer of spaghetti, then adds a layer of chili, then a layer of beans. Chopped onions and cheese can also be added. It is delicious.

Vegetable
Most any vegetable can be prepared by heating it in a pot. This can be done over a campfire with a camp crane or with a camp stove.
 * Kidney beans
 * Green beans
 * Corn on the cob (can be boiled or wrapped in foil and roasted in a campfire)
 * Peas

Entree
Possibilities include
 * Spaghetti
 * Veggie Burgers
 * Haystacks
 * Veggie dogs

Drink
The drink must be "cooked" too, so try one of these (or something else)
 * Hot chocolate
 * Apple Cider
 * Herb Tea


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Talk:Demystifying Depression/Normal Neuron Communication

The Value System's role on mood / Human beings as Emotional Learners
Much has been written about the role of Value Systems (a group of specific thinly dispersed neuronal groups that regulate the release of neurotransmitters in areas of the brain) to constrain the learning process by influencing the weighting of neural connections. Since the state of these same neural systems is highly taken to be equivalent to our emotional state, it seems value systems are more at issue regarding our emotional state then a blanket statement regarding all neuronal behaviour (In the way it is written in this section of the book it appears a symptom is being claimed to be the cause, when in fact the cause is yet underlying what is at mention.)--Scottmcmaster 05:15, 22 November 2006 (UTC)

Bad information
I am new to Wiki Books from Wikipedia but this page seems to have lots of sketchy and perhaps false information. Are there any studies suggesting that when you enjoy a task you use less serotonin for example. Is there some way to label that it needs fixed or that the information is speculative. I feel like completely gutting it until I or someone else does a rewrite. Lonjers 08:33, 24 January 2007 (UTC)

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/Purify water

 * Boiling: Water can be purified by boiling for five to ten minutes.
 * Iodine: Iodine is added to water as a solution, crystallized, or in tablets. The iodine kills many—but not all—of the most common pathogens present in natural fresh water sources. Carrying iodine for water purification is an imperfect but light weight solution for those in need of field purification of drinking water. There are kits available in camping stores that include an iodine pill and a second pill that will remove the iodine taste from the water after it has been disinfected.
 * Chlorine: Chlorine-based bleach may be used for emergency disinfection. Add 2 drops of 5% bleach per liter or quart of clear water, then let stand covered for 30 to 60 minutes. After this it may be left open to reduce the chlorine smell and taste.
 * Filtering: Water filters are also used to make water potable. These filters are usually small, portable and light (1-2 pounds), and filter water by working a hand pump. Dirty water is pumped via a tube through the filter, then out into another flexible tube and directly into a water bottle. These types of filters work to remove bacteria, protozoa and cysts, all of which can cause disease. These water filters should not be confused with devices or tablets that are water purifiers. Water purifiers satisfy higher EPA standards, and also remove viruses, such as hepatitis A and rota virus, among others.


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Pioneering

Housing

The first European settlers in the New World came from England, and brought English building practices with them. In England, timber was scarce, and the building techniques reflected that scarcity. This really made little sense, because the East Coast of the New World where they settled was literally covered with timber. When the Swedes arrived around 1640, they introduced the log cabin. Compared to other house-building techniques, log cabin construction saved a lot of labor. Logs needed to be debarked, cut to length, and notched where they made joints. They did not need to be sawn into planks.

The log cabin served the pioneers well until they pushed into the Great Plains where trees again were scarce. Settlers in the plains turned to the most abundant building material available to them - sod. They would cut from the ground rectangles of sod measuring about, and pile them into walls. The resulting structure was a well-insulated but damp dwelling that was very inexpensive. Sod houses required frequent maintenance and were vulnerable to rain damage. Stucco or wood panels often protected the outer walls. Canvas or plaster often lined the interior walls.

Furnishings
In the early nineteenth century it became increasingly popular for rural Americans of modest means to take the decoration of their homes and furniture into their own hands. Rather than hauling a lot of furniture into newly settled areas, the pioneers frequently made their furnishing at the new homestead site from materials available there.

Rugs could be made from scraps of worn-out clothing or other fabric. Scraps would be braided together to form a long rope, then coiled round and sewn together to form a practical rug.

Barrels and wagon boards might suffice for tables and chairs until proper ones could be built or bought.

Bed supports were made from rope or wooden slats. Mattresses would be filled with straw, corn husks, moss, or other available firm material. Soft upper mattresses could be stuffed with cattail down, wool or feathers.

b. Clothing

 * Buckskins: Buckskins are clothing, usually consisting of a jacket and leggings, made from buckskin, a soft sueded leather from the hide of deer or elk. Buckskins are often trimmed with fringe (originally a functional detail, to allow the garment to dry faster when it was soaking wet because the fringe acted as wicks to soak away the water, or quills. Buckskins derive from deerskin clothing worn by Native Americans. They were popular with mountain men and other frontiersmen for their warmth and durability.
 * Breeches: Breeches (pronounced britches) are an item of male clothing covering the body from the waist down, with separate coverings for each leg, usually stopping just below the knee, though in some cases reaching to the ankles. The breeching of a young boy, at an age somewhere between six and eight, was a landmark in his childhood.

 * The spelling britches reflects a common pronunciation, and is often used in casual speech to mean trousers or "pants". Breeks is a Scots or northern English spelling and pronunciation.

 * Trowsers/Trousers: These are men's pants or trousers. Often they were made from canvas, wool or linen.  The seat was baggy to allow a man to sit down with ease and rode higher than modern pants.  Canvas trousers were favored by gold rush men for their sturdiness.

 * Shirts: Men's shirts were often constructed out of squares and rectangles of material so that every inch of fabric was used.  Red and blue calico shirts were especially popular because they were not so apt to fade as other colors.  White was another popular color because it was easier to clean.  Other colors were difficult to keep from fading but a white shirt could easily go back to being white.  They were sometimes called "boiled shirts", named for the practice of boiling white shirts to clean them.

 * Bonnets: Sunbonnets were an essential item for pioneers crossing the western trails as a form of 19th century sunscreen. The wide brim and long sides protected their skin from sunburn.   Sunbonnet variations (including the slat bonnet and the corded sunbonnet) covered the face, neck and shoulders.   In some cases men were even known to wear sunbonnets as protection.

 * Hats: Hats were commonly made from straw, wool felt, or beaver.  Most pioneer hats were designed for practicality.  A practical pioneer hat would have a wide brim to keep the rain and sun off a man's face.

 * Aprons: An apron is an outer protective garment that covers primarily the front of the body. The apron was traditionally viewed as an essential garment for anyone doing housework because they were so much easier to wash than dresses.   Men also wore work aprons to protect their clothes.  Cheaper clothes and washing machines made aprons less common beginning in the mid 1960s.

 * Dresses: Dresses were normally made at home from calico or some other inexpensive cloth imported from the east (either the Eastern U.S. or Europe). They could also be made from linsey-woolsey (a sturdy cloth made with a linen warp and a wool weft) which was also called wincey.  These wincey dresses were almost indestructible, but not very fashionable.  Women with the ability and inclination might also spin and weave their own cloth, called homespun, which they would dye with plants.  Wool dresses were prized for their ability to breathe, shed water, stay warm or cool (depending on weave) and the ease of cleaning (most dirt could easily be brushed off), but they did have to be protected from moths and other animals.

c. Food
The first priority of a pioneer family when arriving in a new area was to build a house and a barn. If possible, they would also set out a garden, however, that depended on their season of arrival. Before crops on a large scale could be planted, land had to be cleared. It was usually not completed during the first year of settling. First the settlers needed to clear the property of trees and stumps. In many areas (notably New England) clearing the trees and stumps would reveal a field full of large rocks which would also have to be cleared. They would build large bon fires over the largest rocks so that the heat would crack them. Then they could extend the fractures by hand to render the boulders into smaller rocks that could be dragged out by horses. The rocks cleared from fields were generally used to construct stone walls along the borders of fields and to mark property boundaries. Clearing fields was a highly laborious process, requiring hours of back-breaking work over an extended period of time.

During the first year of settling, pioneers mostly relied on wild game and their own dehydrated and preserved provisions for food. They also gathered wild plants to eat and used their gardens to the extent that they could. In spring they might tap maple trees for syrup. They also kept livestock and poultry to ensure a steady supply of milk, eggs and meat.

d. Cooking
The Pioneers cooked over open fires using Dutch ovens and kettles. If they had one, they would use a Franklin stove (see below).

e. Warmth and light

 * Oil lamps: Oil, gas and kerosene lamps were used, but were not as common as candles. Lamps did give off more light than candles, but required more supplies and hardware to keep maintained.

 * Candles: With candles, a pioneer did not have to worry about spilling lamp fuel, breaking lamps, or replacing wicks and broken chimneys. Candles were cheaper and more portable than lamps. An average, middle-class household in the 1800s used approximately one hundred pounds of candles per year.

 * Homemade candles: Homemade candles were most often made from tallow (a byproduct of beef-fat rendering). Tallow burned quickly, stunk terribly and gave off a lot of smoke, however they were cheap (most rural people had fat from butchering) and offered an emergency source of sustenance. Tallow candles had to be protected from heat because they melted at a mere 100 degrees. Tallow candles could also be purchased. Purchased tallow candles were the least expensive and cost between sixteen and twenty-five cents per pound or two and two and half cents per candle.

 * Beeswax candles: were also made at home, but not nearly as often as tallow. Beeswax was more expensive, but gave off a nice smell, lasted longer (did not melt until 155 degrees) and did not smoke.  A family would more often purchase beeswax candles, but they were by far the most expensive candle.  They sold for between sixty and seventy-five cents per pound.

 * Stearin: (a hard, long lasting candle made with stearic acid, a component that hardens fats) and spermaceti (whale oil) candles were always purchased.

 * Fireplaces: A hearth fire was probably the first form of winter heat used by the Pioneers. It not only heated a cabin, it was also used for cooking.  However, fireplaces are not very efficient as most of the heat they produce goes right out the chimney. A metal reflector placed in the back of the fireplace helped to alleviate this problem somewhat.  Fireplaces also helped to light the home.

 * Franklin Stove: The Franklin stove (named after its inventor, Benjamin Franklin) is a metal-lined fireplace with baffles in the rear to improve the airflow, providing more heat and less smoke than an ordinary open fireplace. It is also known as the circulating stove. Although in current usage the term "stove" implies a closed firebox, the front of a Franklin stove is open to the room.

f. Tools and handiwork
Tools were an essential element to the pioneers moving into a new area, but they often only brought the most basic ones with them. Among these would be an ax and a drawknife. They first thing they would do with these tools was fashion handles for all their other tools (shovels, hoes, etc.). They usually only brought the metal portions of such tools because the handles were big and bulky, and they had limited cargo-carrying capacity.

g. Sanitation
Once they arrived in an area, the pioneers would establish a permanent latrine, or an outhouse. This consisted of a hole dug into the ground (three-to-six feet deep). They would then erect a structure over the hole and furnish it with one or two seats positioned over the hole. When the hole was nearly filled with human waste, they would dig another latrine elsewhere and relocated the outhouse over it, burying the old hole with dirt removed from the new one. They did not have toilet paper, but rather used corn cobs, tree bark, leaves, or if they were lucky, the pages from catalogs. Toilet paper became available in 1857 and was sold by the sheet, rather than on a roll but still remained less common than other forms of sanitary wipes.

Wash basins were kept in the bedrooms, and normally, a person would wash their hands and face on a daily basis. Full body bathing was done indoors in a large wash tub. Common advice was to bathe once a week, though some bathed more often and some less. Water was drawn from a well to fill a large metal or wooden wash tub. They would then boil a smaller amount of water in a kettle and add that to the tub as well to warm it up.

Food scraps were fed to animals (cattle, pigs, dogs, etc.).

h. Transportation

 * Trails: When the pioneers arrived in the New World, there were no roads at all.  There were trails, but these were made for horses and for people on foot, so they were not suited for wagons.  Pioneers often widened these footpaths to create trails wide enough for wheeled vehicles to pass.

 * Roads: Rough, quickly built roads, called corduroy roads, were built by felling logs and laying them side-by-side across the "road" and then covering them with earth. This was done in boggy or swampy areas that were otherwise impassable by wagon.  After a heavy rain, the earth would be washed away leaving dangerous gaps between the logs.  It was not uncommon for a horse to step into one of these gaps and break its leg.

 * Wagon Trains: A wagon train consists of a group of wagons moving together. Whereas wagon trains were common in the Old West, in other places of the world different forms of caravans and convoys were often used, such as camel trains in Australia. A wagon train allowed pioneers to travel together for safety. Each wagon train formed their own government and made their own set of rules for wagon train members to follow. Often these wagon trains would be lead by an experienced 'wagon master' who knew the route.  The wagon master would set out his rules and a wagon train wishing to follow him would pay him a set sum of money to lead them safely across the plains.

 * Often, at night time, wagon trains would form into a circle, to provide a corral for animals and offer some shelter from wind/weather. Today, covered wagon trains are used to give an authentic experience for those desiring to explore the West as it was in the days of the pioneers and other groups traveling before modern vehicles were invented.

 * Rivers: A quick glance at a modern map of the Eastern United States will show you that Interstate 95 runs up the Atlantic seaboard from one major city to the next. Why are these cities there?  A closer inspection will reveal that most of these cities are situated on rivers, and usually at the fall line. The fall line is the place on the river where the first waterfalls are met when traveling upstream.  Cities were built here because that's as far as the pioneers could travel by river before they had to get out of their boats.  Usually they would haul their cargo overland above the falls and load it onto barges so they could continue the trip by river.

 * The Sea: It was often more economical to travel from one city to the next by getting on a ship and sailing down the coast than it was to ride a horse or walk. Travelers from the eastern coast of America wishing to go to the western coast of North America had the option of taking a ship.  A traveler could sail to Panama, get off the ship, travel by land across Panama (The canal had not been built yet!) then take another ship to their final destination.  Their other option was to take a ship and sail all the way around the southernmost tip of South America, then up to the Sandwich Islands (now called Hawaii) where they would spend the winter before sailing to their final destination.

 * In general, emigrating by sea was more expensive than going overland, but offered slightly more comfort.

a. Weave a basket using natural materials.
See the Basketry honor for instruction.

c. Make a lady's bonnet by hand sewing.
This site has a pattern and instructions for making a slat bonnet. This style, along with its sister style the corded bonnet, was the most popular pioneer style. It was valued for its simplicity and effectiveness. Remember to sew it by hand!
 * http://web.archive.org/web/20100929041026/http://elizabethstewartclark.com/GAMC/FP/PDF/Slats.pdf

d. Make a simple toy used by the pioneers.

 * Corn husk doll: A corn husk doll could be made by turning a corn husk inside-out and then binding it at the neckline.  It was then dressed in miniature clothing.

 * Rolled Doll: This doll is simply made with a square of material of any size, folded in half and rolled up, a few stitches tack the roll of fabric closed, and a few more sew the top closed. Smaller bits of material should be rolled up and tacked to the doll's side to create arms.  An original 1831 set of instructions and illustration can be seen in the American Girl's Book.
 * Whimmy diddle: A gee-haw whimmy diddle is mechanical toy consisting of two wooden sticks. One has a series of notches cut transversely along its side and a smaller wooden stick or a propeller attached to the end with a nail or pin. This stick is held stationary in one hand with the notches up, and the other stick is rubbed rapidly back and forth across the notches. This causes the propeller to rotate. Sometimes also known as a "Hooey Stick" or a "VooDoo Stick". The word "Whammy" is sometimes "Whimmy" and the word "Diddle" sometimes "Doodle", giving it a possible 3 other names, and the "Gee-Haw" may also be dropped.

 * "Gee-Haw" refers to the fact that, by rubbing your finger against the notched stick while rubbing, the direction of the spinning propeller may be reversed. The operator may do this surreptitiously and yell "Gee" or "Haw" to make it appear that the propeller is reacting the commands. If you call it a "Hooey Stick", you would yell "hooey" each time you want the direction to change.

 * Hoop and stick: A large wooden hoop is rolled along by means of a stick. Skilled players can keep the hoop upright for lengthy periods of time and can do various tricks.
 * Whistle: See the Whistles honor for instruction.
 * Buzz Saw/Whirligig/Buzzer: This is easily made from a large 2 or 4 hole button and a single strand of strong thread or very fine cord.  The thread is passed through two button holes (If it is a 4 hole button, use two diagonal holes rather than two holes side by side).  Tie a knot in the string.
 * An example of a finished buzz saw
 * To play with the buzz saw, hold and end of the string firmly in each hand so the button falls in the middle, then whip the string around like a jump rope till it is wound tightly. Pull the string so that the button spins, then quickly relax, pull the string again when the button is ready to spin the opposite way.  With a little practice you can get a rhythm going and keep the button spinning.  A properly held buzz saw

4. Know how to make flour from at least one wild plant for use in baking.
Flour can be made from clover blossoms. Gather about of them and let them dry for two weeks. You can also put them in a low temperature oven for an hour or two. Once they are dry, grind them to powder with a mortar and pestle. This will make about of flour. Mix half-and-half with wheat flour. It makes good pancakes.

You can also make flour with the roots or pollen of cattail and with acorns. Though acorns may be found in abundance, it is a lot of work to process it into flour. Other nuts (walnuts, hickories, hazelnuts, etc.), though often less abundant, are a little easier to process into flour as they do not require leaching to remove tannin. See the answers to the Edible Wild Plants honor for details.

a. Describe the best types of axes.
The "best" type of axe depends on what you're trying to do with it.
 * Felling axe — Cuts across the grain of wood, as in the felling of trees. In single or double bit (the bit is the cutting edge of the head) forms and many different weights, shapes, handle types and cutting geometries to match the characteristics of the material being cut.
 * Splitting Axe — Used to split with the grain of the wood. Splitting axe bits are more wedge shaped. This shape causes the axe to rend the fibres of the wood apart, without having to cut through them, especially if the blow is delivered with a twisting action at impact.
 * Broad axe — Used with the grain of the wood in precision splitting. Broad axe bits are chisel-shaped (one flat and one bevelled edge) facilitating more controlled work.

b. Show how to sharpen an ax properly.
It is best to sharpen an axe by hand rather than using an electric grinder. A grinder will heat the blade and ruin the axe's temper. This will cause the bit to soften making it impossible for the axe to hold a sharp edge during typical use. If the axe is very dull or has visible notches in the blade, start sharpening with a file. The file should be held at an angle and run over the length of the blade. Sharpen both sides until the notches are gone. If the axes just needs a touch-up, you can use a sharpening stone. Wet the stone with water (or if you have an oilstone, with oil). This will cause the filings to "float" away an prevent them from clogging the pores in the stone (making it smoother and thus, less effective at sharpening).

c. Know and practice safety rules in the use of an ax.
Be sure you have firm footing before swinging an axe or a hatchet, and be sure no one is within six feet of you to the sides or to the rear, and within twelve feet of you towards your front.

Be sure that the arc through which you swing the axe is clear, especially of overhead obstructions such as branches.

Axe heads do occasionally come off at times (2 Kings 6:5), and they are very dangerous when they do. Check that the axe head is tight to the handle before using it, and if you find that it is loose, take steps to correct this.

When handing an axe to another person, offer them the handle. Carry the axe so that if you were to trip, the blade would point away from you. Put the axe in a sheath (if it has one) when it is not in use.

d. Know the proper way to use an ax.
Do not hammer an axe into a piece of wood. An axe is for cutting, and should not be used as a wedge. It should also not be used as a sledge hammer. Practice aiming the axe until you get good at it. When you can hit what you aim at, your use of the axe will be far more efficient. Do not chop into the ground - this practice will quickly dull an axe. Apply a bit of oil to the axehead to prevent rust.

e. Properly cut in two a log at least eight inches (20.3 cm) thick.
Do not lay the log directly on the ground. Otherwise the axe blows will push the log into the ground. Instead, lay it on another small log (three inches in diameter is good). Strike the log to be cut at the point where it is in contact with the supporting log. Otherwise, the log may flip up and strike you or a bystander. This can cause a serious injury, so be watchful. Proceed by chopping a "vee" into the log, alternating cuts on the left and on the right. The width of the vee should be equal to the diameter of the log. Once the vee penetrates halfway through the log, turn it over and cut another on the opposite side until the two vees meet.

c. Using rope and natural materials, make one device for moving heavy objects.
You can make a makeshift block and tackle with nothing more than two sturdy ropes and a tree (or other stationary object). First, take a short length of rope and tie one end around the object you wish to move. Then tie a loop at the other end.

Tie one end of the longer rope around a tree using a bowline. Then tie a slip knot in this rope near the tree. Take the running end of the rope and thread it through the loop you made in the first rope. Then thread it through the slip knot you tied near the tree.

All that remains is to pull on the running end of the longer rope. This setup provides a two-to-one mechanical advantage. For every two meters you pull on the long rope, the object will move one meter closer to the tree.

8. Explain the need for proper sanitation relating to solid and human waste and the washing of body, clothes, and dishes.
If human waste is not dealt with properly, it can cause disease. It is a small matter for uncontrolled human waste to enter the water supply where it will cause harmful bacteria to multiply. When this happens, anyone using the water internally (i.e., drinking, washing dishes, brushing teeth, etc.) will ingest the bacteria and get sick. Dysentery is a medical condition caused by improper sanitation, and it involves uncontrolled, bloody diarrhea. This causes the body to dehydrate leading to death.

Keeping your body clean is also very important. If you are filthy and you injure yourself, breaking the skin, the filth will readily enter your bloodstream where it can make you sick and cause a painful infection. Infections can kill you if they left untreated.

Dirty clothing can lead to parasitic infestations, such as lice.

Dirty dishes breed bacteria which feast on any food left stuck to the dish. It is then easily transferred to the body when the dish is used for cooking or for eating.

Log Bridge
The simplest way to make this bridge is with poles. Cut two long poles at least in diameter and long enough to span the item to be bridged. Then cut several smaller poles at least in diameter and approximately  long. Place the long poles over the gap to be spanned such that the short poles can lay across them, overhanging by on both sides. Then use continuous lashing to attach the short poles to the long ones. A rope hand rail can be added for additional balance.

10. Know four ways to keep the wilderness beautiful.

 * Pick up litter.
 * Stay on the trail.
 * Use "Leave no Trace" camping techniques.
 * Write letters to your elected government representatives about environmental issues.
 * Prefer pollution-free recreation activities (biking and hiking over ATV's, canoes and kayaks over motor boats and jet skis, cross country skis over snow mobiles).
 * Take only pictures, leave only footprints. That means you don't pick wildflowers or destroy plants.  It's generally OK to harvest the fruiting body of a plant (i.e., berries).
 * Use a camp stove instead of a campfire when camping. This will eliminate the need to gather firewood and will not leave a fire ring.

a. Make a wax candle or other form of pioneer light source.
See the Candlemaking honor for instruction. Why not earn it while you're at it?

b. Make a batch of soap.
Note that this is also a major requirement for the Soap Craft - Advanced honor.

d. Churn butter.
This can be done when sitting around the campfire. Get a half pint of heavy cream and place it in a sealable container with a wide mouth, such as a Tupperware vessel or glass jar with a tight fitting lid. Place a marble (or similar object) in the container with the cream and seal it up tight. (Optional) Then pass it around the campfire having everyone shake it for a minute or two. After ten to fifteen minutes, the container should have two things in it: butter, and buttermilk. You can pour off the buttermilk (save it for biscuits or pancakes in the morning) and you are left with solid butter. The butter solids can then be "washed" by kneading out the pockets of buttermilk with the back of a large spoon. When most of the remaining buttermilk has been worked out, you may salt it to taste and spread it on fresh baked bread. Delicious!

e. Make a quill pen and write with it.
If you don't happen to have a flock of geese from which to pluck feathers, you can always buy them at a craft supply store. Select a feather that is about long. The first step in making a quill pen is to temper the shaft. This can be done by heating a tin can filled with sand in an oven at for 15 minutes. If camping, you can do this in a campfire as well. Carefully remove the can from the heat and jam the end of the feather into the sand as far as it will go. Let it sit there until the sand cools. This will cause the transparent shaft of the feather to become opaque.

Strip some of the "hair" off the feather so that it will not get in the way of the writer's hand. will do fine. Hold the feather in your hand to see how it wants to orient itself. Unlike a modern pen, one portion of the feather's shaft will be the "top". Usually, the feather will curve over the hand as you hold it.

This page has a good description, but we'd need to put it in our own words. http://www.flick.com/~liralen/quills/quills.html

f. Make a corn husk doll.
For this you will need an ear of corn, still in the husk, a bit twine, and some cloth. Choose one with as much stem attached as you can, up to the intended height of the doll.

Peel the husk back, trying to tear as little of it apart as you can. Fold the husk over the stem. Once all the husk has been folded back, you can chop the corn cob off with a sharp knife. Discard the silks. Tie a piece of twine around the husk an inch or so below the point from which the cob was cut. Tighten it up as much as you can. This will form the neck line. Tie another piece of twine about the middle to form a waist. Then use the cloth to make a dress for the doll. (A bonnet conceals the unfortunate fact that your doll is bald.) Draw some eyes, a nose, and a mouth on the doll's face using a marker, or for a more authentic look, use a piece of charcoal.

g. Assist in making a quilt.
For instruction, see the Quilting honor.

12. Know five home remedies from wild plants and explain their uses.

 * Jewelweed: The juice from this plant was used as a treatment for poison ivy. However, modern medicine has shown that jewelweed is no more effective than a placebo for treating poison ivy.
 * Willow: The bark from the willow tree contains salicylic acid, an ingredient in aspirin. Chewing on willow shoots, twigs, branches, or bark was used as a pain reliever.
 * Balsam fir: The resin of the balsam fir is used to produce Canada balsam, and was traditionally used as a cold remedy.
 * Coltsfoot: The leaves of the coltsfoot plant were used for making tea or hard candy. Both were used as a cough medicine.  Again, modern medicine has shown that this treatment is not efficacious.
 * Boneset: Boneset, although poisonous to humans and grazing livestock, has been used in folk medicine, for instance to excrete excess uric acid which causes gout. It has many more presumed beneficial uses, including treatment of dengue fever, arthritis, certain infectious diseases, migraine, intestinal worms, malaria, and diarrhea. Boneset infusions are also considered an excellent remedy for influenza. Scientific research of these applications is rudimentary at present, however. Caution is advised when using boneset, since it contains toxic compounds that can cause liver damage. Side effects include muscular tremors, weakness, and constipation; overdoses may be deadly.
 * Feverfew: Feverfew has been used for reducing fever, for treating headaches, arthritis and digestive problems.
 * Garlic: Garlic has been used as both food and medicine in many cultures for thousands of years, dating at least as far back as the time that the Egyptian pyramids were built. Garlic is claimed to help prevent heart disease including atherosclerosis, high cholesterol, high blood pressure, and cancer.

a. Assist in constructing a raft, using lashings. Take a five-mile (8.3 km) trip on a river with this raft.
A raft can be constructed using continuous lashing (as with the log bridge described previously). The logs should be no less than in diameter. We recommend that the raft be accompanied by other watercraft, such as canoes or john boats. You should also carefully scout the river before committing the raft to it, ensuring there are no rapids.

Because this trip is not an over-nighter, you will be able to use the canoes to carry people instead of gear. Plan on enough canoe capacity to carry everyone in the party just in case the raft is not able to complete the journey (it happens). Assume that each canoe can carry three or four people.

Make sure everyone wears something they can get wet (such as a swimsuit), as well as sandals, river shoes, or old tennis shoes. Personal Floatation Devices (PFDs, also known as life-jackets) are an absolute must, and should be worn at all times while on the water. Under no circumstances should you allow anyone to board the watercraft (especially the raft) without a PFD.


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General Astronomy/The Early Origins of Astronomy

Thousands of years ago, the night sky was much more a part of everyday life than it is today. Without light pollution from streetlights, anyone could see thousands of stars or the path of the Milky Way through the sky. The motion of the stars provided an essential calendar for predicting the weather, so ancient people were accordingly very attentive and observant of the heavens and the rest of their surroundings. These ancient observations were the foundation for what would become modern astronomy, and were the first manifestations of scientific thought in society.

A central principle in scientific reasoning is that the world is inherently orderly and capable of being understood, and that observation is the means by which we can learn about how the universe works. There is, however, nothing that requires the universe to make sense or be accessible to human understanding. Humanity has placed trust in the ideas behind the scientific method because science has been so successful, and so much of the world really does obey a set of rules.

The ingredients that make up a successful philosophy of science were not conceived all at once, but rather in a gradual process of development over the entire course of history. The ancients could never have known in advance which principles of scientific method would eventually prove to be reliable. In its adolescence, society stumbled through the dark to learn about the world, to discover how their experiences could teach them what the universe was like, and to identify the boundaries between reason and superstition. The story of the development of science in cultures throughout the world is revealing not only of the nature of the world and of truth, but also of human nature more generally.

Ancient artifacts going as far back as 20 thousand years, to the paleolithic age, may arguably be related to astronomy, although the interpretation of such artifacts is a subject of controversy. The best-known examples are found in the caves of Lascaux in France, where a variety of paleolithic artwork are found. Some specimens found in the caves might possibly depict the Pleiades star cluster or the zodiac. Animal bones nearby have markings such that they could have been used as a lunar calendar. Although artifacts from the paleolithic era are scarce and ambiguous, this scarcity does not necessarily imply that the peoples of the period took no interest in the heavens. Modern aboriginal cultures, for example, pass down ceremonies with strong astronomical symbolism that would not reflect themselves in archaeological artifacts.

The character of artifacts of the neolithic period is markedly different, since understanding of the skies and the calendar clearly bear deep meaning for agricultural cultures in even the earliest times. Observers gained the ability to manage the planning of significant annual events. The motions of the heavens develop a profound influence on the affairs of humanity, and this influence comes to manifest itself in religious interpretations of heavenly phenomena and worship of the planets, practices that form the origins of both astrology and astronomy.

Ancient monuments and markers demonstrate societies' early interest in the heavens to archaeologists and historians. Many graves of this period are aligned with the cardinal directions. Ancient monuments and altars of sacrifice face east, south, or west to within a few degrees — a clear indication that neolithic peoples had begun very early to identify the most fundamental concepts of astronomy. The most famous of the ancient monuments is Stonehenge. The stones of the monument mark the positions of sunrise on the summer solstice, among other things.

Several of the planets have been known since prehistoric times. These bodies are very bright, and they wander among the fixed stars, through the constellations. These were known to the Greeks as planētēs, "wanderers". The ancients knew of 7 "planets": the Sun, the Moon, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. The names for the seven days of the week come from the Norse gods: Sunday (the Sun), Monday (the Moon), Tuesday (Mars/Tiw), Wednesday (Mercury/Wodan), Thursday (Jupiter/Thor), Friday (Venus/Frigg), and Saturday (Saturn/Soeternes).

Highly systematic and carefully recorded observation of the heavens appears as early as the third millennium BC, in the ancient Mesopotamian civilization of Babylon. The Babylonians also developed the earliest timekeeping instruments. Of perhaps even greater significance, however, was the birth of astrology in Mesopotamia. The astrologers of Babylon were the first to suppose a cause and effect relationship between heavenly and earthly events, and the first to imagine an underlying order in nature — though no real connection between human and celestial events existed, the prophecies of astrology were the ancestors of modern scientific prediction.

The early astronomers understood a great deal about the world around them. By Aristotle's time, many people believed that the world was round. They knew this from several sources of evidence: Aristotle mentions in his writings that some thinkers of his time hold that the Earth is flat, while others believe it to be spherical. He himself argues firmly that the Earth is a sphere. After Aristotle's time, nearly all Western writers claim that the Earth is a sphere.
 * 1) When ships sailed beyond the horizon, those watching from land would see the hull disappear first, and then would watch the sail disappear. Sailors see the land sink below the horizon bottom-first. From this, they gathered that the surface of the world was curved, and that the ship was moving around the curvature of the Earth.
 * 2) Ancient people supposed eclipses of the Moon to be the shadow of the Earth. Shadows seen during lunar eclipses were always round. The only shape that always casts a round shadow is a sphere. This suggested that the Earth was spherical.
 * 3) Travelers noticed that new stars became visible as they moved in their journeys. When travelers move north, the North Star and the northern constellations gain altitude in the sky. The ancients recognized that this implied that the Earth is curved.

In the third century BC, the Hellenistic Egyptian scholar Eratosthenes served as head of the library of Alexandria, where he studied and wrote on a variety of subjects. During his studies, Eratosthenes learned that the Sun cast no shadow on midday of the summer solstice from the city of Syene. From Alexandria, Eratosthenes observed that the Sun did cast a shadow, and he measured that the angle between the Sun and the zenith was about seven degrees when the Sun was highest in the sky.

Eratosthenes knew he could measure the circumference of the Earth by measuring the distance between Alexandria and Syene, assuming that the Sun was at the highest point in both cities at the same time. Since 7 degrees is 7/360 of a circle, the distance between Syene and Alexandria must be 7/360 (or, equivalently, about 1/50) of the circumference of Earth.

Eratosthenes estimated the distance between Syene and Alexandria to be about 5,000 stadia, and concluded that the circumference of the Earth was about 50 times that, or 250,000 stadia. The stadium was a common unit of distance in the ancient world, comparable to kilometers or miles in modern usage; the exact length meant by a stadium varied over history and from region to region, so it is difficult to compare Eratosthenes's estimate with modern values. Most values of the stadium, however, translate to a circumference in the area of 40,000 kilometers, which is remarkably close to the accepted circumference of 40,070 kilometers.

As science was beginning to grow in the cultures of Western civilization, it was likewise taking root elsewhere in the world. Ancient and medieval China, India, and America in particular have been centers of the scientific world.

The history of science in India is one of the longest and best documented in the world. Largely isolated from the rest of the world through much of its earliest history, India was free to develop its unique flavor of astronomical practice at its own pace and without external influence. Ancient India had no system of astrology, but celestial timekeeping became popular very early. The first astronomers monitored the progression of the year and tracked the movement of the Sun, Moon, and planets through the nakshatra, the Indian zodiac.

The quality of these observations would make it possible for later Indian astronomers to detect the effects of precession, just as Hipparcos had done for Greek astronomy. Indian astronomers of the Middle Ages estimated the speed of precession to be 54 seconds per year. Although this is much more accurate than Hipparcos's measurement, we must note that the number 54 was chosen for mystical rather than scientific reasons. Ancient people throughout the world mixed mysticism with arithmetic in this way, but we see this much more consistently in the Indian culture than in any other.

The Christian era brought great change to Indian astronomy. By about the year AD 519, Babylonian conquest had spread into the Indus basin, and many Greek scholars had already visited or settled. Naturally, cultural exchange took root.

The ancient Chinese valued astronomy very highly. Systematic observation of the heavens may have begun in China as early as the third millennium BC. Science was viewed as a powerful tool and therefore guarded very closely by the state. Under dynastic rule, the perceived purpose of astrology and astronomy was to remind the people of the connection between the emperor and celestial events. Accordingly, astrology was charged specifically to an Astronomical Bureau appointed by the emperor and carried out according to strict rules.

The Chinese regarded celestial events as important omens, particularly in the case of "guest stars," stars that temporarily appeared in the sky and quickly faded away. Today we know that these are stellar explosions called supernovae. In the year AD 1054, a new supernova became bright enough to be visible even during the day. Chinese and Arab astronomers recorded the event, and it appears to be depicted in an American cave painting. Because of the importance the Chinese assigned to supernovae, their observations of ancient supernovae are by far the most complete in the world, and remain useful as a source of scientific data even today.

Meanwhile, astronomy was thriving in pre-Columbian America, where interest in the heavens was widespread. Astronomy held a high position in the Mayan civilization, which dominated Mesoamerica for two thousand years prior to the arrival of Europeans. The Maya people believed that patterns in nature were very important, and that it should be possible to use astrology to predict the future based on past experience. This made the observation of celestial cycles very important, since they would give advance knowledge of future events, and Mayans dutifully kept track of motions of the Sun and Moon. With the accumulation of centuries of observation, Mayan astronomers were able to predict eclipses and measure the lengths of heavenly cycles very well.

Similar ideas were sprouting throughout the Americas. Throughout the Americas, ancient people built monuments, buildings, mounds, and temples aligned with rising and setting points of important stars, or with the northernmost and southernmost positions of the Moon. Calendars and monuments like Stonehenge are found here. Clearly, interest in the heavens was common throughout the ancient world, as were the rudimentary beginnings of science.

Scientific thought has appeared throughout history and all over the world, but it's clear that the scientific enterprise enjoyed more success in some areas and time periods than in others. The reasons for this are entirely unclear. What factors of culture, economics, and philosophy affect the rise of scientific thought? The Babylonian culture, for example, did not permit deviation of any kind from tradition or conventional practice. Such a culture might be expected to hinder the progress of science, yet science and mathematics flourished there. In ancient China, only nobles were permitted to practice science. Some historians have suggested that this culture prevented a renaissance that might otherwise have occurred in China long before the European Renaissance. This question of the interplay between science and sociology has been the subject of great interest in the study of the history of science.

While magic and superstition were a significant part of early thought and difficult to isolate from the emerging pursuit of science, it would be unfair to say that spiritualism completely permeated the first ideas about the nature of the universe. The scientific spirit, the principle of learning about the universe by observing it, was clearly present even from the earliest times, and scientific thought has been remarkably widespread.


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Winter Camping

Clothing

 * Several thin layers of synthetic clothing.
 * Wind-proof shell, such as a parka.
 * Thin, synthetic socks with thick, wool socks over them.
 * Waterproof boots, such as Mukluks, or rubber boots. Avoid steel-toed or leather boots.
 * Gaiters to keep snow out of your boots.
 * Wind-proof mittens over wool gloves.
 * Wind-proof pants over wool or fleece pants. Do not wear jeans.
 * Down-filled vest.
 * Warm headgear. Your body loses most of its heat through the head, so keep it insulated!

Gear

 * Sleeping bag, rated for the expected temperatures
 * Sleeping mat made of closed cell foam will protect the camper from the cold ground. It should be considered essential for cold weather. They roll up about 6 inch diameter.
 * Compass, map, and flashlight. It is illegal to venture into some areas without these essential items!
 * Knife
 * Personal toiletries
 * First aid kit
 * Small tents are easier to heat than large ones (and your body is the furnace - see requirement 6 for more information).
 * Sled, snowshoes, or cross-country skis.
 * Rope
 * Camping stove - make sure your stove will work in cold temperatures. Propane, butane, and alcohol stoves can be difficult (or impossible) to light at low temperatures.  Wood-fueled camping stoves such as the Trailstove or Littlebug stove are strongly advised.
 * Matches
 * Cooking gear and utensils.
 * Dining sets (plate, cup, cutlery).
 * Whistle (one for each member of the expedition).

4. List and explain the characteristics of winter campsite selection.
Camp on the snow or on bare ground. Camping on snow leaves almost no environmental impact. Be mindful of animal tracks. You do not want to pitch camp on a trail used by animals - that would cut them off from their source of food or water.

Cold air sinks, so you want to avoid low ground. Ridges and mountaintops are exposed to the wind, so you will want to avoid those as well. If camping on a slope, the tent opening should be positioned so that it faces neither downhill nor uphill. In the evening as the sun sets and the air at the higher elevations cools, it will sink, creating a breeze blowing down from the mountain top. In the morning as the air at the lower elevations is heated by the sun, it will rise, creating a breeze blowing towards the mountain top. Though this air is warmer than the air at the top of the mountain, it is still quite cold, so you do not want your tent door facing it.

Avoid areas prone to avalanches. Look around for evidence of avalanche debris from the current season (chunks of disturbed snow) or from previous seasons (downed trees).

Consider where the sun will rise in the morning, and where the first light from it will fall. It would be a pity if you pitched your tent in the shadow of a mountain peak, while 100 meters away is s spot that will receive sunlight an hour earlier.

Choose a site with a nearby source of water. You might have to break through some ice to get to it, but once that's done, you will not want to haul it any farther than necessary. Water is heavy!

Watch for tree limbs, and do not camp beneath snow laden branches. The branches will either drop snow and ice on your tent, or they may even break off themselves.

5. Describe, or show where possible, the preparation of a level tent site in snow and pitch a tent in winter conditions.
The difficulty posed when pitching a tent in winter conditions is in anchoring the tent to the ground. Winter winds tend to be stronger than summer winds, so securely anchoring the tent is even more important. Meanwhile, the ground is frozen, making it difficult to drive stakes into it, or it is buried beneath several inches of snow.

If pitching a tent in snow, first stomp down an area as large as the tent. If the ground is not level, you can move snow from the high side to the low side, and add more snow from elsewhere to level it out. Pack it down as well as you can, and immediately smooth it out. Fluffy mounds of snow have a strange way of turning into bumpy chunks of ice very quickly, and they are exceedingly uncomfortable to sleep on.

Then lay the tent out, and anchor it before erecting the poles. As soon as you raise the tent, it will be susceptible to being swept away by the wind, and that is the reason for anchoring it before raising it. To anchor it, fill a bag with snow, ice, or rocks, tie it to the tent's anchor point, and bury it in the snow. Then pack the snow down firmly around the bag. Be sure to retrieve the bags when you break camp.

In deep snow, you can also excavate a kitchen by digging out a small area and building up walls with the snow you scoop out of the kitchen hole. Dig a path from the kitchen to the tents, and build snow chairs and tables too if you want. By submerging your kitchen below the snow, you get both your fire and your cook out of the wind. If you make it big enough to eat in, you get yourself and your dining companions out of the wind too.

If pitching a tent on bare ground, you can try to drive stakes into it, but if it is too frozen to allow this, you can again turn to anchoring the tent to weighted bags. Fill the bags with as many rocks as they will hold, and then pile more rocks on top of them. You can also tie the anchor points to fallen logs, but you will need to move the logs close to the tent for this to work well.

6. Prepare a balanced three-day menu to be used in your winter camping experience.
The key to eating on a winter camping is to provide lots of calories. If you are snowshoeing or cross country skiing, you will need at least double your normal caloric intake. Furthermore, you need to be aware that calories are what fuels your body's furnace, and this internal furnace is what generates the heat that your clothing traps. The body metabolizes calories to generate heat, so it needs something to work with.

That said, it is also important to eat a balanced diet. Be sure your menu contains plenty of vitamins and minerals and draws from all the food groups (Meat and beans, fruits, vegetables, grains, and dairy). There is no need to eat like a pauper on a camp out, and indeed, many outdoorsmen find the meals to be the most satisfying aspect of winter camping. In a person's normal, sedentary life, excessive calories need to be carefully avoided, and this often means skipping dessert, sweets, or fatty foods. Not so on a winter camp out! You will need those calories, so pour them on! (Just be sure to back off again when you return to your sedentary ways.)

Winter camping also affords the opportunity to bring along foods that would normally spoil for lack of refrigeration. If the temperature is going to stay below, you can bring anything with you that requires refrigeration. If you are expecting the temperature to stay below freezing, you can bring frozen foods with you. If you are snowshoeing or skiing into the wilderness, you can cram all that extra food onto a sled and drag it behind you. It's easier to drag a sled than it is to shoulder a backpack, and you can carry a lot more weight too.

7. Know how to get water from snow.
Though snow is a form of water, it is foolish to eat it while it is still frozen, especially when spending an extended period of time in the cold. Eating snow can lower the body temperature, leading to chills at best, hypothermia and death at worst. That said, snow is still a great source of drinking water, so long as it is melted first. Pack snow into a pot and put it on the camp stove. Add of liquid water to the pot of snow before heating it. If the only water you have in the pot is snow or ice, there will be air pockets. If there is nothing there to conduct the heat away from an aluminum pot, a stove can easily burn a hole in it, or scorch the inside (which will impart a bad taste to the water). The easiest way to get water for this purpose is to keep it in a bottle carried in an inside pocket near your skin. Your body heat will prevent it from freezing.

8. Know five safety rules of winter camping.

 * 1) Do not embark on a winter camping expedition unless you have adequate equipment and provisions and are in good physical condition.
 * 2) Never light a fire inside a tent unless the tent has been specifically designed for fire.  Most tents are not designed for this purpose.
 * 3) Do not camp alone - use the buddy system.  Frequently check your buddy for signs of frostbite and hypothermia.
 * 4) Allow plenty of time to set up camp before it gets dark, especially if you plan to build a shelter from snow.
 * 5) Check current conditions and know the weather forecast before setting out.
 * 6) Always let someone outside your group know your itinerary - where you will go, what route you will take, and when you expect to return.  Get a permit when camping in the back country and register with the ranger.
 * 7) Wear a brightly colored outer layer so that you can be easily seen by other members of your party.  This is essential if a snow storm blows in.
 * 8) Do not overestimate the capabilities of your group.
 * 9) Do not underestimate the dangers of winter conditions.
 * 10) Use common sense at all times.

9. Explain the proper steps to take if stranded without equipment in winter conditions.
It is best to not become stranded without equipment in the first place. Never venture into the wilderness unless you are prepared for winter conditions.

The most important action a person can take if stranded in winter conditions - with equipment or without - is to get to a shelter or build one. Most wilderness fatalities are a result of exposure to the elements - in other words, hypothermia. If you are on skis, you may be able to ski to safety, but allow at least an hour before darkness falls to begin looking for shelter.

If you are in a vehicle, stay with it. It makes an excellent shelter. If the vehicle gets buried in snow, do not run the engine, as this can force deadly carbon monoxide inside. It is better to shut off then engine and keep the doors and windows closed than to go outside and dig the car out. If the car gets buried in snow, it will add a layer of insulation and keep the inside warmer.

If in a snowy area without a vehicle, dig a snow cave. If in a forested area with a little snow, find a fallen tree and scoop the snow away from it, building a snow wall with the removed snow, and using the fallen tree as another wall. Often, a large fallen tree will raise a rootwad which provides an excellent starting point for building a shelter. First, the rootwad can be as high as tall, and second, it will create a depression in the ground from whence it lifted its roots.

If in an area with no snow build a debris hut by piling up tree branches leaving a hollow space in the center of the pile. Cover the branches with leaf litter, dead grass, sod, and moss to keep the wind out and to provide insulation. Make your shelter as small as you can comfortably fit inside. This will create a smaller space to keep warm with your body heat. Lay branches on the ground to provide a layer of insulation underneath you. If available, use small pine branches over the larger ones to create a softer cushion, or a layer of leaves. The more you can put between you and the heat robbing ground the better.

If you can find a cave, take shelter inside that.

If you are able to light a fire without equipment do that as soon as your shelter is ready, but not before. Shelter is more important than fire, and it is imperative that you keep your priorities straight in a survival situation. A fire will greatly increase your odds of survival, as you will then have an external source of heat, and the fire will help attract a rescuer.

However you decide to provide yourself with shelter, stay put and wait for rescue. They will find you, and if you have conserved your energy and found (or built) a shelter, they will find you alive. You can help any rescuers find you by leaving some sort of indication of your presence near your chosen shelter, such as a bright article of clothing securely tied to a pole.

11. Spend a total of six days and nights in cold weather camping.
We assume that this can be over many camping trips. Does not have to be 6 straight nights

a. All nights should have temperature lows in the 40's (5° C).
We assume that this means the temperature should be below 49 °F, which is 9.4 °C. Below 40 °F (4.4 °C) is also acceptable.

Bring a thermometer with you on all your camp outs. If the temperature drops below 50 °F, you can count that. If you wake up in the morning and find frost on the grass or on your tent, that counts too.

b. Two nights should have temperature lows below freezing (0° C).
Again, you should bring a thermometer on all your campouts. If you wake up in the morning and find frost on the tent or on the grass, that counts as a below freezing night.

c. All nights should be spent in tents, tarps, or the open.
We assume that an igloo, snow cave, or quinzhee would also qualify. This portion of the requirement is there so that the winter camper does not try to count a night in a cabin, recreational vehicle, or pop-up camper as a winter camping night.


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General Astronomy/The First Physics

Anaximander (611-547 BC) postulated that there were five elements: earth, air, fire, water...and quintessence, which heavenly bodies were made of.

Astrology is based on Ptolemy's Tetrabiblos, written in 140 AD. The horoscope is divided up into 12 "houses", 12 constellations along the ecliptic. Ptolemy believed that an "8th Sphere" held up the stars in the sky.

Kinetic energy is the energy of motion. The formula for this is $$\frac{1}{2}MV^2$$ ($$M$$ is mass, and $$V$$ is velocity).

title: General Astronomy/The First Physics


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Backpacking

1. Discuss with your instructor the meaning of the motto: "Take nothing but pictures and leave nothing but footprints."
"Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints" is a good summary of the more common 7 Leave No Trace Principles.

 * Plan ahead and prepare.
 * Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
 * Dispose of waste properly.
 * Leave what you find.
 * Minimize campfire impacts (be careful with fire).
 * leave a trace behind every journey.
 * Be considerate of other visitors.

2. Know the essentials of proper clothing, shoes, and rain gear to use in backpacking.
Rain Gear Be ready for bad weather on your backpacking trip by bringing along a poncho and rain pants. In a pinch, you can use a garbage bag as a raincoat by cutting a hole in th bottom, turning it over, and poking your head through the hole. A slit along each seam on the side will make arm holes. It will not cover your head like that, but it will keep the rest of you dry.

In some countries where you do not really experience consistent weather to divide this question into clothing for warm weather and cold weather is a bit pointless. You do not even plan to have a warm weather hike (tramp). Have your basic clothing planning for the worst the sky can throw at you, it most probably will even in Summer. If the sun comes out take off a layer or two and when you climb in altitude or a cold wind comes up put them on again with a rain coat as well.

The taking jeans on a tramp in these conditions is a decision for disaster. When they get wet they stay cold and chill your skin temperature towards hypothermia. When wet/or if you are sweaty from the heat, they will chafe your inner upper legs and cause severe rub rash. Most NZers tramping in New Zealand wear shorts with thermal leggings under, thermal or woolen singlet with a shirt (or Bush shirt) and then a polly prop top. This is what I would take all year round.

3. Know the principles in selecting a good quality backpack. In an emergency, what might be used in place of a backpack?
A backpack suited for backpacking will have a hip strap on it that fastens around the hips. The shoulder straps will carry a small percentage of the weight as well, but they are really intended to keep the backpack from tipping off.

Backpacking backpacks come in two basic designs: the Internal Frame backpack, and the External Frame backpack.

The external frame backpack (or EF backpack) has a rigid frame made from aluminum, plastic, or both. The pack itself attaches to the frame, and the frame is attached to the body via shoulder and hip straps. The frame holds the pack away from the back so that air may circulate back there, making an EF backpack cooler to carry. The downside to an EF is that the body tends to twist and flex as a hiker moves, and the frame resists this. Some EF packs take this into account, and provide a frame that will flex. The main measure of comfort on an EF backpack is the degree to which it flexes.

The internal frame backpack (IF backpack) drapes over the back. It gets its structure from the gear placed inside it. This allows the IF backpack to flex and move as the body does, making it generally more comfortable to carry. Furthermore, the IF pack lies against the hikers back. This allows it to distribute its weight over a greater area, but it also prevents air circulation, making it hotter to wear. The IF pack uses foam in the straps to add even more comfort. There are two basic types of foam: open-cell foam, and closed-cell foam. Open cell foam is highly compressible. While this may add comfort in some places, it should not be used in the straps. In the straps, the foam compresses too much, leaving the webbing to dig into the shoulders. Closed cell foam compresses much less than open-cell foam, and is therefore preferred in the straps. You can easily tell the difference by squeezing the padding. If it compresses to about a quarter its original thickness, it is open-cell foam.

In an emergency, you can toss your gear into a blanket, gather the corners, and throw it over your shoulders. Another option would be to stuff your gear into a closed sleeping bag and sling that over your shoulders. Either of these solutions are obviously going to be far inferior to even the least adequate backpack though, so this substitution should be reserved for only emergencies.

4. Know the essential items to be taken on a backpack trip.

 * Map of the area
 * Compass
 * Knife
 * Flashlight
 * Water
 * Food
 * Water and Food equipment
 * First aid kit
 * Rain gear
 * Backpack
 * Firelighting equipment
 * Sleeping bag/pad
 * Extra clothes
 * Hiking boots or hiking shoes
 * Backpacking stove and fuel
 * Tent or tarp
 * Toiletries (toothbrush, toilet paper, soap, etc.)
 * Compact shovel

6. Know how to pack a backpack properly.

 * 1) Lay out all your gear where you can see it, next to your pack.
 * 2) Look for empty spaces in your gear - for instance, there may be room inside your cooking pot. Put any small items that will fit inside that to conserve space.  Look for other "hidden" space as well.
 * 3) For an internal frame backpack, put the sleeping bag in first, at the bottom. For an external frame, tie it underneath the pack.
 * 4) Load the heavy items next, placing them as close to your back as you can. This will shift the center of gravity forward which will help your balance and improve comfort.  Be sure nothing is going to poke you in the back though.
 * 5) Put the lighter items such as clothing in towards the outside of the pack.
 * 6) Put the things you'll need on the trail (like water, trail mix, compass, map, etc.) in the outer pockets where you can get to them. If they're hard to get to, you'll be unlikely to use them.  And if you don't use them, why bring them at all?

7. What types of food are best for backpacking? Visit a grocery store and list the foods found there that are suitable for backpacking. With your instructor
The best type of food to take backpacking is dehydrated food, as it is very lightweight, compact, and nutritious. You can buy food pre-packaged or you can dehydrate it yourself. For details on dehydrating your own food, see the Food Drying honor in the Household Arts section of this book.

a. Prepare a menu for a weekend backpack trip using foods obtained from a grocery store.
Although you can buy prepared dehydrated foods for backpacking at an outdoor outfitter, getting your food this way can be fairly expensive. Instead, try getting dehydrated food at a regular grocery store. Here's a short list of possibilities:
 * Instant mashed potatoes
 * Instant oatmeal
 * Quick-cooking rice
 * Powdered milk
 * Powdered eggs
 * Pasta
 * Nuts and peanuts
 * Dry soup mixes
 * Dry beans, lentils, peas
 * Granola
 * Dried fruits (apricots, apples, and banana chips)
 * Flour, mixed with other dry ingredients to make pancakes or biscuits

b. Learn the techniques of measuring, packaging, and labeling backpack foods for your trip.
Once you've bought the food you plan to eat on your backpacking trip, the last thing you will want to do is toss it unthoughtfully into your backpack in its original packaging. Food packaging is designed to catch your eye at the grocery store, and to do this, it does not come in space-efficient sizes. Empty all of your food and repack it into sealable plastic bags (such as Ziplock bags). Make up a menu before you do this, and pack each meal into a separate bag. Then clearly label the bag with a permanent marker or a mailing label. The label should be legible even in dim light - you never know when you'll have to cook your food in the dark. This is a lot of trouble to go through, but it is well worth it during the trip.

If you wish to make pancakes, first determine how many pancake meals your party will eat, and mix it all up at once. It is a lot easier to accurately measure large amounts of flour, salt, and baking powder than it is to measure small amounts of the same. Mix it all together thoroughly, and when it is well mixed, scoop out enough to make one serving and place it in a baggie. Make as many single-serving baggies of pancake mix as you'll use. You can use the same technique for making soup mixes and other delectables. Just keep all the ingredients dry and be prepared to add water at the campsite.

c. Make a trail snack.
There are millions of recipes for trail mix, and every seasoned backpacker has a favorite. "Gorp" is a perennial favorite - the name tells its ingredients: Good old raisins and peanuts. Choose half a dozen (or more! or less!) of items such as these, mix them together, and put them in a baggie:
 * Raisins
 * Peanuts
 * Chex cereal
 * Frosted Flakes or other sweetened cereal
 * Pretzels
 * M & M's
 * Chocolate chips
 * Dried fruit
 * Shelled sunflower seeds

Put the baggie in an easy to reach place in your pack so you can nibble on it while you hike. Don't worry about getting low-fat items. You'll be doing enough walking (and carrying a heavy pack) to burn a lot of calories - you'll need the fat.

9. Have a first aid kit in your pack and know how to use it.
Compact, lightweight firsts aid kits are available at many retailers and outdoor outfitters. But don't just go out, buy one, and toss it in you pack without another thought. It is important for you to open it up and examine every item. Then review the answers for the First Aid honor, so that you know how to use each item.

10. According to your weight, what is the maximum number of pounds you should be allowed to carry?
An adult should carry no more than a fifth to a third of his or her body weight in a backpack, depending on the level of fitness. A kid should not carry more than a quarter his body weight.

Your aim should not be to load your pack until you hit the maximum, but rather, to bring as little as you can get by with. But don't carry anything you aren't going to need. When it comes to backpacking, less is more! Don't kill yourself. Evaluate every item you put into your backpack. Little things add up quickly, so try not to duplicate functionality. For instance, if you're brining a pocket knife, you can probably leave the butter knife behind. Bring a spork rather than a spoon and a fork. Use parachute cord for a clothesline - it's very strong and can be used as rope. Distribute "group" gear among the group. Take the tent apart and have one person carry the fly, another the canopy, and a third the poles. Instead of bringing a pillow, stuff tomorrow's clothes into a sack and use that.

Southern hemisphere instructions
Southern Cross to find south at night

With the lack of a significant pole star in the southern sky (Sigma Octantis is closest to the pole, but is too faint to be useful for the purpose), two of the stars of Crux (Alpha and Gamma, Acrux and Gacrux respectively) are commonly used to mark south. Following the line defined by the two stars for approximately 4.5 times the distance between them leads to a point close to the Southern Celestial Pole.

Alternatively, if a line is constructed perpendicularly between Alpha Centauri and Beta Centauri, the point where the above line and this line intersect marks the Southern Celestial Pole. The two stars are often referred to as the "Pointer Stars" or "White Pointers", allowing people to easily find the top of Crux.

The junction of these two lines is the SCP Southern Celestial Pole. If you were at the South Pole this would be directly above you. This is the point where the night sky revolves around. Point to this spot then lower your arm to the horizon. Where you are pointing is South.

Watch method

Southern Hemisphere method only.Point the 12 to the sun. Halfway between the hour hand and the 12 is North. You still have to use your intelligence for this as early morning time and evening time care must be taken as to which half you use. E.g. 8am sun is rising in the East; point 12 to the sun North is halfway between the 8 and the 12 at the 10. BUT late evening the sun is heading to set in the west say time is 8pm you point the 12 at the sun. North is halfway between the 8 and the 12 at the other side of watch at the 4. This should be used only as a guide as in some countries the real time has been adjusted and sometimes there is daylight saving time etc.

Stick method

This method is a waste of time. We all know the sun rises in the East and sets in the West. The stick shadow shows you this. Also when the sun is at its zenith the highest it gets in the Southern Hemi look at the sun and it is towards the North the opposite in the Northern Hemi. So we learn that at mid day is the best time to find North (or South).

But if you must... place a stick in the ground on an open area. Mark the shadows at times throughout the day. From this you can find North or South (depending what side of the equator you are on) from the shortest shadow and also East and West by drawing a line from the ends of the longest shadows assuming you had an early morning and late evening marking with equal time from mid-day. But for this you have to be lucky to have sunshine for most of the day, which usually is not the case if you are lost. Anyhow it is something to know if you do not have a watch to know when mid-day is.

12. Show the proper way to put on and take off a backpack alone and with a partner.

 * Alone: Set the backpack on a table (or a large rock), put your arms through the straps (loosened off), and lift with your legs. You can also set it on a rock or a log and sit down in front of it.  Again, lift with your legs, not with your back. If there is nothing available to set your pack on; stand with your feet apart, one leg ahead of the other, knee bent enough to set your pack on it.  With shoulder straps loosened off, slip one arm through the shoulder strap, lean into your pack and slightly downward, and roll it up onto your back.  Once in place, slide your other arm through the shoulder strap.  Always tighten your hip belt first, shoulder straps next and lastly your chest strap.  Reverse this procedure for removing your pack.

 * With a Partner: Have your partner lift your pack and hold it while you slip your arms into the straps. If you have to stoop, bend your knees.  Remember to lift with your legs!

13. Participate in a weekend backpack trip of at least five miles (8 km) to a site not accessible by a vehicle and cook your own meals.
Five miles is a good backpacking trip for a beginner. Find a trail near you by visiting your local outdoor outfitter. These stores are most often staffed by people who enjoy backpacking and can provide you with valuable advice on destinations. Once you've got a 5-mile trip under your belt, why not look at the Pioneering honor and make your next trip a 15-miler?


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Talk:Demystifying Depression/The Stress System

Reactions to Danger as important learning events
Since evolutionarily speaking our reactions to danger are of great importance to our survival, it goes hand in hand to say that how well we learn the correct reaction to dangerous situations also is of great importance.

As I have noted on the previous page's talk page, Value systems are contraint systems that alter our emotional states by regulating the release of chemicals that alter the weight of connections between neurons and neuronal groups, thereby influencing our learning processes. Since the state of Value Systems is taken to be synonymous with our emotional state, it carries forth the realisaton that our emotions are learning regulatory systems. Dramatically important learnng events, such as dangerous ones are bound to illict a dramatic response from the brains Value systems. (this emensely relivant connection seems to have been overlooked)--Scottmcmaster 05:35, 22 November 2006 (UTC)


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User:Rodneyeast/About the author

Rodney East works with a Pathfinder Club in Glenn Ellyn Illinois, and has been involved with Pathfinder from the age of 9 when his grandmother introduced him to the stars by working on the Star honor.

He studied everything he could find on astronomy as he was growing up and finally graduated from Pacific Union College with a Bachelors degree in Physics with an emphasis in Astronomy.

He now works in the Information Technology group of the Advanced Photon Source at Argonne National Laboratory.

Rodney and Stephanie East Produced the DVD entitled "Why Knot, an introduction to knots, rope, and splices" to help teach the Knot Tying Honor. This video is available through Advent Source.

title: User:Rodneyeast/About the author


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Camping/No compass

 * North Star: In the northern hemisphere on a clear night you can determine which direction is north by finding Polaris (the North Star). You can find Polaris by following the two "pointer stars" in the Big Dipper.  Unfortunately, this method is only effective on clear nights.

 * Using a Watch: You can use an analog watch to figure out which way is south during the day. To do this, it is easiest if you remove the watch from your wrist first.  Hold the watch so that the face is pointing upwards.  Then rotate it until the hour hand points to the sun.  You can use a blade of grass to cast a shadow on the watch face to make this easier - just line the hour hand up with the shadow.  Once the hour hand is pointing towards the sun, you can find south by bisecting the angle between the hour hand and the 12 o'clock position.  In other words, if it is 4:00pm, south will lie in the 2:00 o'clock direction (because 2:00 is halfway between 4:00 and 12:00).  At 7:00 am, south will lie in the 9:30 direction (because 9:30 is halfway between 7:00 and 12:00).

 * Using a shadow: Find a straight stick at least 12 inches long (30 cm) and drive it into the ground such that it points directly at the sun. You can tell the stick is pointing directly at the sun because its shadow will disappear.  Then wait until the earth rotates enough so that you can see the shadow.  The shadow will point directly east.

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User talk:AmiDaniel

Hello and welcome to Wikibooks!

Here are some tips to help you get started:
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 * Explore, be bold in editing pages, and have fun!

You will find more resources in Community Portal. If you want to ask a question, visit the Study help desk, the Staff lounge, IRC channel or ask me personally on my talk page.

Good luck! -- Herby talk thyme 08:05, 22 November 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:AmiDaniel


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User talk:Anish.arkatkar

Demo article
Can I ask if this is intended to be part of another book? If so it should be correctly named (let me know what it is part of and I will do it). If it is a test you really should be using the sandbox for that. Thanks -- Herby talk thyme 10:24, 22 November 2006 (UTC)
 * I would appreciate it if you would get back to me about this query - you can post an answer here as I will see it - thanks -- Herby talk thyme 12:20, 22 November 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:Anish.arkatkar


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Communication Networks/Local Loop

The Local Loop
In telephony, a local loop is the wired connection from a telephone company's end office to customer’s houses or small businesses. It is also referred as “last mile” although it can be up to several miles. The connection is usually of twisted pair copper wire. The system was originally designed for voice transmission only using analog transmission technology on a single voice channel. A computer can also send the digital data over this analog connection. For this the data is needed to be changed from digital to analog form so that it can be transmitted over the same local loop.Modem and codec is used to do this conversion of data. During the transmission of the data transmission lines mainly suffer three kinds of losses:

(i)	Attenuation:-The Loss occurred due the loss of energy.

(ii)	Distortion:- Due to the propagation speed v/s frequency.

(iii)	Noise:-it is unwanted energy from source other than the transmitter.

MODEM
A modem (from modulate and demodulate) is a device that modulates an analogue carrier signal to encode digital information, and also demodulates such a carrier signal to decode the transmitted information. The goal is to produce a signal that can be transmitted easily and decoded to reproduce the original digital data. A MODEM accepts a serial stream of bits as a input and produce a carrier modulated by one or more by different modulation techniques.

Modulation Techniques
The AC signal is used in the telephone Lines Because DC Signaling is not Suitable due to the square waves have a wide frequency spectrum and this is why they are more prone to strong attenuation and delay Distortion.

Amplitude Modulation:- In Amplitude Modulation two different amplitudes are used to represent 0 and 1.

Frequency Modulation/Frequency Shift Keying:- In FM two different tones are used. Tones are also called as keys.

Phase Modulation In the PM the carrier wave is systematically shifted 0 or 180 degrees at uniform spaced intervals.

All advance modem use a combination of modulation techniques to transmit multiple bits per baud. Most of the times multiple amplitude and phase shift are combined to transmit several bits/symbol.

Sampling
To get the higher speed we just cannot increase the sampling rate. The most modem samples at 2400 times/sec or 2400 baud. A Baud is the number of samples per second. If n is the number of bits that are sent in a baud then the rate of the modem = n*2400 bps. The rate of the modem can be increased by increasing the number of bits that are to be sent in baud.

There are various ways to pack more bits in a baud, so that our objective can be achieved. If a symbol consists of 0 volts for logical 0 and 1 volt for logical 1, then the bit rate is 2400 bps.

QPSK (Quadrature Phase Shift Keying) In QPSK each symbol consist of 2 bits. Its bit transfer rate is twice of the baud rate. So it transfers a 4800bps over a 2400 baud line. QAM-16 (Quadrature Amplitude Modulation) In QAM-16 each symbol is consist of 4 bits, its bit transfer rate is Four times of the baud rate. So it transfers 9400bps over a 2400 baud line. In this four amplitude and four phase are used, for a total of different 16 combinations. This modulation technique can transmit 4 bits per symbol.

QAM-64 A method of modulating digital signals uses both amplitude and phase coding. It can be used for downstream and used for upstream.In QAM-64 each symbol is consist of 6 bits, its bit transfer rate is Four times of the baud rate. So it transfers 9400bps over a 2400 baud line.

TCM(Trellis Coded Modulation) Even a small amount of noise in the detected phase and amplitude can result in the big error and many bad bits. To reduce the chance of error high standard modems does error correction by adding extra bit to each sample.

V.32 modem standard uses 32 constellation points to transmit 4 data bits and 1 parity bit per symbol at 2400baud to achieve 9400bps with error correction.

V.32 bis modem standard uses 128 constellation points to transmit 6 data bits and 1parity bits per symbol at 2400 baud to achieve 14000 bps with error correction.

V.34 runs at the speed of 28,800 bps at 2400 baud with 12 data bits per symbol.

V.34 the final modem in this series achieved the speed of 33600 which uses the 14 bits/symbol at 2400 baud

'V.90 provides 33.6K upstream (from user to ISP) and 56K downstream channel (from ISP to user).

V.92 can provide 48 kbps on upstream channel if the line can handle it. The downstream rate is 56Kbps.

title: Communication Networks/Local Loop


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Amiblitz

What is Amiblitz (or Amiga Blitz Basic)?
Amiga Blitz Basic is amiblitz. A few features of Amiga Blitz Basic that make it distinctive are:
 * Structured BASIC language format, for modern, high quality coding
 * Compiled (not interpreted) executables for fast execution speed
 * Easy use of Amiga sound and graphics through special commands
 * Full access to Amiga ROM libraries and custom hardware
 * Runtime debugger
 * Active user base and ongoing development (as of 2006/2007)!

Amiga Blitz Basic was originally developed as commercial software under the name of Blitz Basic and then Blitz Basic 2 by Simon Armstrong and Mark Sibley of Acid Software in New Zealand. It was later re-released as freeware under the GNU General Public License. More recently Bernd Roesch and others of Amiforce have continued development of the editor and compiler, under the name Amiblitz.

Amiga Blitz Basic is free and can be downloaded http://www.amiforce.de  The download file contains an installer and full instructions. Amiga Blitz Basic requires either an original Amiga computer with Kickstart and Workbench versions 3.0 or above, 12Mb Hard disk space, and an FPU, or an emulated Amiga (such as UAE or Amiga Forever) running on modern PC hardware. The latter is likely to be much faster and trouble free.

Amiga Blitz Basic Manual

 * Using the text editor

title: Amiblitz


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User talk:65.95.235.49

Welcome to Wikibooks. We invite everyone to contribute constructively to our collection. Take a look at the welcome page if you would like to learn more about contributing. However, unconstructive edits are considered vandalism, and if you continue in this manner you may be blocked from editing without further warning. Please stop, and consider improving rather than damaging the hard work of others. Thanks. --Swift 11:41, 22 November 2006 (UTC)

You will be blocked -- Herby talk thyme 17:52, 22 November 2006 (UTC)

You or someone else using this address has vandalised pages severl times today and so have been blocked temperarely. --dark lama  18:32, 22 November 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:65.95.235.49


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User talk:59.163.146.4

Please do not replace Wikibooks pages with blank content. Blank pages are harmful to Wikibooks because they have a tendency to confuse readers. If it is a duplicate article, please redirect it to an appropriate existing page. If the page has been vandalised, please revert it to the last legitimate version. If you feel that the content of a page is inappropriate, please edit the page and replace it with appropriate content. If you believe there is no hope for the page, please see the deletion policy for how to proceed. If page is no longer useful, insert delete to its top. Thanks for contributing to Wikibooks! -- Herby talk thyme 11:43, 22 November 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:59.163.146.4