text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Kites

==1. When were kites first made and flown? Name at least three ways kites have helped in scientific research and tell how each has affected the world we live in. Tell the story of Benjamin Franklin and his kite.==

Approximately 2600 years ago the kite was first made and popularized in China, where materials ideal for kite building were readily available: silk fabric for sail material, fine, high-tensile-strength silk for flying line, and resilient bamboo for a strong, lightweight framework. The kite was said to be the invention of the famous 5th century BC Chinese philosophers Mozi (470-391 BC) and Lu Ban. By at least 549 AD paper kites were being flown, as it was recorded in that year that a paper kite was used to carry a message for a rescue mission. It is almost certain that the first kites flown were in the Orient or East Indian Islands where large leaves grow. As late as the year AD1900 the villagers of Mutun on the island of Sumatra were using the dry leaves of the moon orchid to fly their fishing lines out into the deeper water of the bay to catch bigger gar. They strengthened the leaf with thin twigs and flew it on a three legged bridle in a similar fashion to the Korean kite. Korea borders China on its northern boundary. Interestingly the Korean kite is rectangular, and the left hand simplified Chinese character for kite is similar to the Korean kite as seen from the flyer. It even shows the X spars and outline.

(See http://www.gombergkites.com for more information.)

Scientific Advances
In 1749, Scottish scientist Alexander Wilson used several kites, attached in a train, i.e., one above the other, to measure and compare air temperature at different altitudes.

In 1826 George Pocock invented a kite drawn carriage, and together with two of his friends in similar carriages travelled "toll-free" 113 miles between Bristol and Marlborough, reaching speeds in excess of 20 MPH.

The Wright Brothers experimented with kites and contributed to development of the airplane.

Samual Cody (born Samual Cowdery in Iowa) experimented with man lifting kites and in 1905 flew a glider. During the 1914-1918 he designed man lifting observation kites for the British army.

In the summer of 1997, researchers launched parafoil kites into the night-time sky. Radio-microphones were suspended beneath the kites at three different locations, each separated by 300 meters. This enabled the scientists to simultaneously eavesdrop at different altitudes. These studies have enabled scientists to gain new information into the world of bats.

Kites equipped with airborne cameras can be used to map archaeological sites or to inexpensively monitor areas where erosion, sedimentation, deforestation, or construction are rapidly changing the landscape.

Ben Franklin's Kite
In June 1752, in what is the most famous of kite experiments, the American inventor and statesman Benjamin Franklin, with the aid of his son, lofted a flat kite fitted with a pointed wire and silk sail on a hemp line during a thunderstorm. Somehow both father and son avoided electrocution as a metal key attached to the flying line became electrified. Franklin proved that lightning was the natural phenomenon called electricity, not the wrath of the gods. One immediate and practical outcome of the experiment was Franklin's invention of the lightning rod.

On October 19 in a letter to England explaining directions for repeating the experiment, Franklin wrote:

 * "When rain has wet the kite twine so that it can conduct the electric fire freely, you will find it streams out plentifully from the key at the approach of your knuckle, and with this key a phial, or Leiden jar, maybe charged: and from electric fire thus obtained spirits may be kindled, and all other electric experiments [may be] performed which are usually done by the help of a rubber glass globe or tube; and therefore the sameness of the electrical matter with that of lightening completely demonstrated."

2. Name some of the ways that kites might be used today.
Kites are used today for the following:
 * 1) Predicting weather (carrying aloft meteorological instruments).
 * 2) Carrying loads of water ?
 * 3) Spaceflight (during the recovery of space vehicles)
 * 4) Pulling ships at sea
 * 5) Recreation (kite surfing and skateboarding)

3. Explain briefly how kites fly.
The kites get a lift from the wind in the sky. The same current of air keeps them in flight up in the sky. The higher the kite gets the stronger the current usually gets and the longer your kite will stay up in the air. Flying Kites is something that people enjoy all over the world! Air has weight. When a current of air hits an obstruction this weight is known as force. A kite, at the correct angle to the air-stream, has this force translated into lift and drag. This angle is about 10 degrees and is the angle at which an airplane wing is most efficient.

4. Define the following terms

 * a. Spine(s): The center rod, or other rods that run lengthwise down a kite. May also be called a longeron. Sled kites and Conyne deltas have more than one.
 * b. Spars: The sticks used as the frame of a kite.
 * c. Vent: The vent re-directs the airflow over the sail and may help to lift or stabilize the direction of the kite.
 * d. Bowstring: The bowstring is tied from each end of a spar, making the spar bow-shaped, and gives the kite its dihedral ie the angle between the spar's supporting surface (as a wing) and a horizontal transverse line.
 * e. Cover: Or sail; the cloth plastic,paper fitted on the kites surface that allows for the catching of air currents.
 * f. Frame: The frame makes the shape of the kite
 * g. Tail: The tail is a length of material such as cotton, nylon or plastic which is attached to the kite for visual effect or to cause drag (on a single line kite) that helps with directional stability.
 * h. Keel: The keel is a triangular piece of cloth used in lieu of or as well as a bridle. It helps with directional stability just like the keel of a boat.
 * i. Flying line: Or Tether What a person holds on to, to control the kite. The link between the kite and the ground.
 * j. Bridle: Lines that form the junction between kite and flying line. The bridle transmits the commands of the pilot to the kite. The bridle may also be the means of giving shape to the kite, in the case of soft kites.
 * k. Reel: The reel contains, and is used to let out or retrieve, the flying line.
 * l. Dihedral: Dihedral is the angle formed by the lateral extremities of the kite to the horizontal; and stabilizes the line of flight. Alternatively, a bend or curve in the kite that helps keep the kite stable

5. What is a common cause of kite failure?

 * Lack of wind.
 * Too strong a wind.
 * Trees or other obstacles causing turbulence.
 * Essential parts of the kite or line breaking (e.g., too powerful a wind can break spars or the kite string).
 * The wind stops and the kite falls.

6. What should be done when a kite loops during flight?
The usual causes of a kite looping are: If the kite starts to misbehave when already aloft the problem is most likely to be too much wind. Release tension on the line and try to pull the kite diagonally out of the wind-window and closer to you. The closer you have it, the more control of it you will have too. Most importantly you must keep the kite under your control.
 * 1) Not enough di-hedral.
 * 2) Poorly bridled.
 * 3) Poorly balanced.
 * 4) Too much wind.

7. Why is a tail sometimes needed on a kite?
A kite's tail is used to add stability to the kite and keep it facing into the wind. If there is enough di-hedral this will then prevent the kite from looping. The length of a tail should be from six to nine times the length of the kite body. Some put them on the kite so that when in the air it will wave along the wind - for decoration.

8. Know at least three safety rules for kite flying.

 * 1) Never fly a kite when it's raining and lightning - lightning can kill or cause serious burns.
 * 2) Do not fly a kite near roads, or cars - distracting a car driver is dangerous, you could cause an accident.
 * 3) Do not fly near power lines - you could be killed by an electric shock.
 * 4) Do not fly near people or animals - the spine is an arrow traveling at up to 90 MPH.
 * 5) Keep away from buildings and trees - trees eat kites!
 * 6) Do not fly within 3 kilometres (two miles) of an active airport or aerodrome. See your local aviation authority for details.

a. Correctly wind line on a stick.
Winding a kite line onto a straight stick without getting a large number of twists and knots onto the line is not easy, and care must be taken. First of all get a piece of straight stick about long. Tightly fasten the end of your kite line securely to the center of the stick using two half hitches so that the line can not slide round the stick; then wind several turns tightly onto the center over your knot. Now wind the remainder of your kite line onto the stick using a figure of eight motion; looping your line over each end in turn, and letting it lie neatly close to the center turns; whilst doing this gradually rotate the stick so that the line does not bunch up in one place. The figure of eight motion is imperative as it puts a reverse twist on at each turn. If you do this carefully; all that you have to do to let line out is to hold the center of the stick/ball of line and let the line off each end of the stick in turn. A word of caution – hold fast to the 'winder'. If the tug of the kite pulls it out of your hand, you may find yourself running down-wind chasing a bouncing stick.

My own personal preference for a single line is to use a 'reel' but again the line must be put onto the reel by rotating the reel and not by holding the reel still; whilst looping the line over the periphery. The latter action puts a twist into the line with each turn, and with cheap line can undo the manufacturer's spinning.

Here are a couple of external links, Which give some help in winding dual lines onto commercial winders.
 * http://www.expertvillage.com/video/3991_winding-kite-string.htm
 * http://www.ehow.com/video_4412142_how-wind-kite-string.html

b. Tie broken ends with the fisherman's knot.
Note:- This is a quick and easy knot with which to fasten two ends of line. Unfortunately the weakest part is now the knot which is approximately 45 percent of the line strength. A better knot which gives a finished strength of approximately 60 percent of the line strength is the 'riggers bend' or 'hunters bend'

10. Make and successfully fly two of the following kites
Here are several links to making different types of kites. Go have fun!

a. Sled kite
The sled kite was invented and patented by the American, William Allison in the 1950s. This kite helped pave the way for a class of kites known as "semi-rigid."

 * http://hilaroad.com/camp/projects/Kite/kite.html

b. Flat kite
Note: There is no such thing as a "stable, flying, flat kite." The nearest thing to this is probably the "Indian fighter kite" as it is flat until on the wind. It is a single line kite and is allowed to rotate and float down wind, until it is pointing in the desired direction. At this time the line is pulled tight and the bridle pulls the spine forward into the wind and the kite then assumes its dihedral, stops rotating and leaps forward under the pilot's control. The profile of this kite is almost square while the two-stick frame lies on a flat plane, with the flexible cross spar (complete with both ends tapered) is bent backwards towards the tail end. Traditionally, the covering of this kite is tissue paper but more recently for the western market is made with mylar or similar thin plastic.

Another kite which qualifies for the term "flat" is the Delta kite, made with, or without a spine. It depends for its stability on the pull of the line on its bridle shaped keel to deform the sail and give it its dihedral. We do not know when it was invented, but it is a possible contender for Benjamin Franklin's flat kite. Its one fault is that it has a tendency to fly directly over the head of the pilot, and beyond. This fault is cured by the addition of a tail or a drogue.

c. Two-stick diamond kite
Diamond kites (see Eddy kites, but distinguish). Diamonds types appear from mini to very large, from low-cost beginner utility to high quality state-of-the art large target control diamonds.

The classic Diamond is also a flat kite until on the wind, but here the dihedral is forced onto the cross spar by the air flow. The cross spar lies at ninety degrees to the spine, and is spaced between one fifth and a quarter of the distance from the nose. The addition of a tail (of from six to nine times the body length) compels the kite to face into the wind.
 * http://www.skratch-pad.com/kites/make.html
 * http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hobbies/article/0,2033,DIY_13951_2273218,00.html

d. Delta wing kite
See the earlier note under "Flat kites" as the Delta wing is flat until on the wind. As with most kites, the more accurately one half of the flying surface reflects the other, the easier it is to get it to fly true. The Delta is named after the Greek letter which it resembles in shape, if constructed without a spine. If a spine is added the profile can be altered to achieve the shape designer wishes.

By adding yet another spine and another keel, plus a strip of material between the kite is now called Delta Conyne.
 * External Site to make Delta Conyne Wing Kite - http://www.kitemonger.com/kiteplan/sbd/index.html

e. Eddy or Malay kite
The Malay kite is a model of tailless kite. First introduced to the West in a New York newspaper article from October 1894, the Malay kite was used for recreation for centuries before this in parts of the Far East. The article detailed how a university professor ("Clayton") had erected a series of kites and bound them all together to one kite. These kites had no tail, were bowed and diamond shaped, and were referred to by the article writer as "Malay kites". However, the existence of a Malay-like design may have already been heard of in the United States sometime before the publishing of the article; in the last edition of the American Boy's Handy Book, another tailless kite is described (there referred to as a "Holland" kite). The description of this kite, which was to be included as a chapter in the book, was sent in to the author sometime around 1882, eleven years before the Malay kite was mentioned in the newspaper. Note:- to make the 'Malay' or 'Eddy' kite fly "tail less" dihedral is applied to the kite by fitting a bowline to the cross spar in like manner to that used on the Eddo, Korean, and Rocacoo. The pre-application of bow onto the cross spar is the main difference between the classic diamond and the Eddy. The other difference is that the bow enables the Eddy to fly without a tail. which the classic 'Diamond' requires.

f. Box kite
A box kite is a high-performance kite, noted for developing relatively high lift. The typical design has four parallel struts. The box is made rigid with diagonal crossed struts. There are two sails, or ribbons, whose width is about a quarter to one third of the length of the box. The ribbons wrap around the ends of the box, leaving the ends and middle of the kite open. In flight, one strut is the bottom, and the bridle is tied between the top and bottom of this strut. The dihedrals of the sails help stability. Note:- The central gap between the sails is essential, as the air flow passing around both the inside and outside of the rear 'ribbon' has a stabalising effect and seems to give the kite more 'lift' or elevation.

 * This one's a bit involved - http://www.howtomakeandflykites.com/kites-to-make/the-box-kite.html

g. Tetrahedral kite
A tetrahedral kite is a multi-celled rigid box kite composed of tetrahedrally shaped cells. The cells are usually arranged in such a way that the entire kite is also a regular tetrahedron. The kite can be described as a compound dihedral kite as well.

This kite was created by Alexander Graham Bell. It came about from his experiments with Hargrave's Box Kites and his attempts to build a kite that was big enough to carry both a man and a motor. Bell wrote about his discovery of this concept in the National Geographic June 1903 issue; the article was titled "Tetrahedral Principle in Kite Structure".

This style kite, while not an easy kite to make compared to the simple cross kite, is a very stable kite and is easy to fly. It flies well in moderate to heavy winds if it is properly set up.

 * http://www.instructables.com/id/Tetrahedral-Kite/
 * http://www.cit.gu.edu.au/~anthony/kites/tetra/straw_plan/


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Horsemanship

1. Label on an outline drawing of a horse, or point out on a live horse a minimum of 15 different parts of a horse.

==2. Label on an outline drawing or point out on a real saddle and bridle: Western— minimum of 10 parts of the saddle and 6 parts of the bridle; English—minimum of 9 parts of the saddle and 7 parts of the bridle. ==

Western

 * Fork
 * Gullet
 * Latigo holder (or latigo keeper)
 * Latigo
 * Front jockey
 * Front rigging dee
 * Fender
 * Hobble strap
 * Stirrup leather
 * Stirrup
 * Front cinch
 * Cinch connecting strap
 * Flank billet
 * Saddle strings
 * Horn
 * Seat
 * Back jockey
 * Kirt
 * Cantle
 * Seat jockey

Western bridal
 * crown piece
 * brow band
 * throat latch
 * cheek pieces
 * cavesson
 * curb
 * bit
 * reins

English

 * Tree
 * Pannels
 * Gullet
 * Seat
 * Pommel
 * Cantle
 * Waist
 * Jockey
 * Knee roll
 * Thigh roll
 * Billet
 * Stirrup
 * Sweat flap

English bridal
 * crown piece
 * brow band
 * throat latch
 * cheek pieces
 * nose band
 * chin strap
 * bit
 * reins

3. Demonstrate and explain the purpose of safety equipment while riding and working around horses—riding helmet and boots (or hard soled shoes with a heel).

 * Helmet: Protection of the head. If rider falls from horse, or struck by horse, a helmet will provide some protection if it properly worn. Rider must not be careless around the horse though.
 * Boot: Smooth bottom with heel. In the case the horse bolts and riders' foot slides forward in the stirrup, the heel of the boot will catch and reduce the chance his or her foot could be caught in the stirrup.  If a rider falls and his or her foot catches in the stirrup, serious injury or death can result.
 * Long pants: It is also a good idea to wear long pants when riding. This protects the rider from chafing against the saddle, and from scrapes and scratches from trees and bushes along the trail.

4. Demonstrate and explain a minimum of 5 rules to safely approach and lead a horse.

 * 1) Never approach a horse from the backside. A horse can not see you from straight behind and may startle and kick you. Approach from the side or front. Be sure it knows that you are there. If in a stall, knock on some wood softly or whistle, to let him know that you are there.
 * 2) Stand to the left side of the horse's head when leading - at the shoulder is too far back. Keep an arms distance away so the horse doesn't step on you.
 * 3) If the rope has a chain on the end, hold the rope below the chain.  If you were to hold the chain and the horse pulls it through your hand, it can injure your hand.  Hold the extra rope in the left hand, figure-eight style.  Do not coil or loop the rope around your hand, you don't want to get tangled if the horse bolts.
 * 4)  When turning right, lean or push into the horse, so it can't step on you as easily. To stop, pull back.
 * 5) Avoid excessively long lead ropes, you can become entangled in an emergency.
 * 6) Use a quick release knot when tying the horse. Never tie below the horses' withers. Tie to objects that are strong enough to hold if the horse pulls back.

5. Demonstrate and explain a minimum of 5 safety rules for working around horses.

 * 1) Never go around the back, unless you are at least 3 feet away, or you are very close with your hand on the horse's flank.
 * 2) Don't ride when there's lightning, because some horses can be spooked easily.
 * 3) Do not run around the horse.
 * 4) Don't wrap the reins or lead rope around your hands because the horse may run and your hands can easily be hurt, or you could be dragged and seriously injured.
 * 5) Never go under the neck of a horse.
 * 6) Don't ride a horse in the barn.
 * 7) Never sit or kneel while grooming, the horse could step on you.
 * 8) If your horse bolts, pull hard on one rein to turn it in a circle until the circle is small and the horse stops.
 * 9) Always use a quick release knot or a panic snap to tie your horse so you can release it quickly if needed.
 * 10) Always wear shoes with a heel while riding. No flip flops, or open-toed shoes. Boots are recommended.

b. Use correct spacing.
when spacing, look between the horse's ears and you should be able to see the lower legs of the horse in front of you. If not, you are too close.

c. Do not let your horse eat along the trail.
Your horse will be distracted if you let him eat. He needs to pay attention to your signals, and under your control at all times. Also, the bit will get messy if you let him eat. You don't know what plants may be growing along the trail, they might make your horse sick.

d. Never move faster than a walk on paved surfaces.
Pavement can be very slippery, so your horse could fall if you let him trot or canter.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Community Water Safety

1. Have the Swimming Honor.
==2. Know the value of disrobing before making a swimming rescue. Practice disrobing on dry land in 20 seconds or less. Disrobe yourself of your shoes, socks, pants, belt, and shirt. Don't be alarmed-you are allowed a swimming suit underneath!==

Wearing your normal clothes in a rescue situation is dangerous. Normal cotton clothes absorb lots of water. They will weigh you down and make it much harder for you to swim for yourself.


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Health and Science/First Aid, Advanced

If residing in the United States or any other country in which Red Cross instruction is given, pass the American Red Cross exam in Advanced First Aid and receive your certificate.
The Red Cross has contact information on their web page which can be found at. They do charge a fee, so be prepared for that. To make the most use of the Red Cross training, study the answers in the First Aid, Standard honor prior to attending the class. Wikibooks also has a First Aid book which has the same scope as this course.

Note: The yellow oval on the patch designates “advanced” level.
This honor is normally taught as part of the AY Guide curriculum, so it bears the same color as the Guide insignia.

| /Completed Honors


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User talk:Ben pcc

PDE
I finish my Finals this week, and would be interested working with you on the PDE book between December 15-January 8.

I'd suggest tapering it off into different modules, for one, rather than making it one large articles. Maybe something like:

 * Intro
 * Fourier series/integral intro
 * Separation of Variables
 * Heat Equation
 * Wave Equation
 * D'Alembert Solution
 * Potential Equation
 * Transformation for General Second-Order PDEs
 * Higher Dimensions

And then the electrical examples you've given can be slipped inbetween? What do you think? Fephisto 20:28, 10 December 2006 (UTC)

Hello,

It sounds good. But please do not have Fourier business in the very beginning. I personally self taught this whole PDE thing, and having to learn many new things all at once really made it hard for me. The thing is: there really doesn't exist a good book for self learners; you can only learn either by spending much effort or taking a class. As of now, toward the end of the article it hints that Fourier series are about to be introduced, so that's what the next chapter is intended to be. The text so far is very carefully interconnected, there's more under it then you'd see at first glance.

Oh, and could you please also maintain a printable version?

Thanks for helping,

Ben pcc 20:03, 13 December 2006 (UTC)

"The text so far is very carefully interconnected"

So, what is your plan? So I can try to add stuff without 'stepping over your toes' so-to-speak? Fephisto 16:13, 14 December 2006 (UTC)

My only plan is to start at the beginning and end at the end. There's nothing to keep you from adding stuff since this is Wikibooks. Right now I'm working on Fourier series. It should be more or less assembled today and airbrushed tommorow. I'm thinking of going deeper into the equation being used so far, introducing heat conduction in a rof, eventually go into eigenfunction expansions, then into polar coordinates. Then start a new unit on Laplace transforms. What electrical examples, by the way?

Ben pcc 19:56, 14 December 2006 (UTC)

I just looked over your contributions. You seem to know alot more math than I do (I'm an ME).

I'm willing to put what I know into this book. With that in mind, it might be a better use of your time to work on something you know that I (and most people) don't, such as the residues book (it looks really nice. I wish I knew complex analysis). I say that with great humbleness. If you feel you should contribute to this book please do so.

Ben pcc 22:44, 14 December 2006 (UTC)

"What electrical examples, by the way?"

None, I don't know why that came out of my fingers o_O. Anyways, I moved most discussions to the PDE discussion pages. Nice cover btw. Fephisto 20:41, 18 December 2006 (UTC)

Perhaps it would be a good idea to make an outline for where you're going with the whole book? I'd like to contribute more, but your train of thought is a lot easier for people to understand in my opinion. There's still quite a few more topics to hit. Fephisto 03:40, 14 January 2007 (UTC)

Hmmnn....

I'll probably go into eigenfunction expansions sooner or later into the Separation of Variables chapter. Also, Laplace's equation on a square with one side 1 and the rest zero, that's a nice but uncommon separation problem and it involves the Euler Differential equation. I think that'd be nice since solving PDEs often turns into solving unusual ODEs, and Euler's ODE would be a very gentle introduction into this.

I'm thinking of make the next chapter (not sub chapter) about transforms, both integral and discrete, but not beat it as hard as most do.

I want to go in depth on Green's function method and the conformal mappings that go with it, but that's much later on.

I really want to introduce some more complicated problems, such as pressure driven flow (that's nonhomogenous) in a circular pipe (that'll introduce Bessel Functions). Not sure when or where it'd be appropriate.

Ben pcc 19:26, 16 January 2007 (UTC)

Man, wherever you learned this went into a lot more depth than my PDE class, however, there should be a mention of Sturm-Louiville Problems somewhere, this turns into an eigenfunction problem, but it could probably be introduced inbetween change of variables and The Laplace Equation. Although, a full Sturm-Louiville treatment would be nice with abstract linear algebra; but I don't think it's necessary. Although, it's kind of a grand generalization of what you've been doing so far, so I might stick a link to it after the Laplacian article later. Fephisto 21:10, 1 February 2007 (UTC)

Heh... self taught :->. It started with a crappy book called Partial Differential Equations for Scientists and Engineers. Now I get most of what I know via the internet, I'm basically documenting what I'm learning. Really helps it sink in. I tried learning abstract algebra but that didn't work; there's too much engineer's mentality in my head and that crosses the line.

Indeed, eigenfunction expansion and Sturm Louiville theory go hand in hand. Right now I'm going in for a bit of an intermission into a slightly unrelated topic: scale analysis. I can't find ANY good document on it online, and good books on it are hard to come by too; it's mostly taught by word of mouth which horrifies me since it's rather important. It's more of an engineering thing then a math thing, though.

I was thinking of proceeding after that unit into either eigenfunction expansion, Green's functions, or transforms (integral and discrete). I also had better mention the wave equation somewhere along the way. Not sure where I'll stick that in, though. Maybe I should continue the separation of varialbes unit with it, and go in depth later.

This really nice document that taught me the relation between eigenfunction expansions and Sturm Louiville theory. That stupid book (PDEs for scientists and Engineers) made no mention that they were related.

It may be good to go into eigenfunction expansions next as I really don't have green's functions down, and I don't like most of the transforms since they're somewhat inflexible. I inted to make it a self contained unit (ie, not under separation of variables).

Thank you,

Ben pcc 03:22, 2 February 2007 (UTC)

Formatting
I like what you've been adding to the PDE book, may I make a few suggestions?
 * 1) That page is getting pretty big, and I think the time is coming when we are going to want to break it up into sub-pages with a proper table of contents and navigational templates. I can take care of that if you want, or I can help you do it. We can leave it like it is for now if you think that's the way to go for right now.
 * 2) If you want to lable an equation, we have a handy template for use, the eqn template. This template lables an equation. For instance, we can turn this:

$$\frac{\partial u}{\partial t} = \nu \frac{\partial^2 u}{\partial y^2} \qquad \mbox{(PDE)} \,$$

Into this:

$$\frac{\partial u}{\partial t} = \nu \frac{\partial^2 u}{\partial y^2} $$

Also, in some of the places where you are using the "down arrows" to show the progression of an equation, you could try centering it:

$$0 = \frac{P_x}{\nu \rho} \cdot 1^2 + C_1 \cdot 1 \Rightarrow C_1 = -\frac{P_x}{\rho}\,$$

$$\Big\Downarrow$$

$$u = \frac{P_x}{\nu \rho}(y^2 - y)\,$$

I think it looks nicer like that. Anyway, those are my two cents, feel free to take them as you like. Let me know if you need anything. --Whiteknight (talk) (projects) 23:09, 13 December 2006 (UTC)

 * That template is justified at the far right of the page, I made it that way to mimic equation numbering schemes that i've seen in other textbooks. We could possibly move it away from the boarder by a little bit, but I think if you want to have a lable closer to the equations, I could make another template to do just that. I'll get to work, and let you know what I come up with. --Whiteknight (talk) (projects) 00:30, 14 December 2006 (UTC)

Regarding your image uploads
Ben, as I was browsing through the untagged images hosted here on the English-language Wikibooks, I came across one of yours (Image:PDEBook0015.png). Would you please tag it with whatever license you would like? Also, please consider looking through your image gallery and nominating any orphan-duplicate images therein. I noticed that there are a few of them. And just for future reference, remember that you can upload an image over another image, so if you make slight modifications, you can just upload directly over your first image! I hope this helps. If you have any questions, please contact me here; I will be watching your user talk page. Cheers, Iamunknown 03:17, 13 February 2007 (UTC)

Hello unknown guy,

Thanks for the heads up. I keep in a text file a list of orphans and tag them all at once once in a while. Not recently though. I didn't know you could upload over an existing file, I tried this some time ago and I couldn't get it too work. I'll try again next time I need it.

Ben pcc 04:45, 13 February 2007 (UTC)

 * Hey Ben, make sure to tag Image:PDEBook0017.png. Since you made it yourself, you have a couple options: GFDL, public domain, CC. The default image license for GFDL textbooks is probably ... GFDL. To do that, just type  without any of the spaces. Hope this helps. --Iamunknown 05:22, 12 March 2007 (UTC)

Welcome back!
Just like to say I enjoy the PDE book so far, keep up the good work! Mattb112885 (talk to me) 23:05, 8 August 2007 (UTC)

Thank you very much! Not likely that I'll contribute as often as I did in early 2007, but I haven't forgotten about this thing. I believe that teaching is learning, so when I want to learn something... I document it. You can get a pretty good guess of what I'm working on by looking at what I just added.

But thanks again. I like knowing that it's useful. -Ben pcc 01:18, 9 August 2007 (UTC)

title: User talk:Ben pcc


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Community Water Safety - Advanced

Have the Community Water Safety honor.
==If residing in the United States or other country in which Red Cross instruction is given, satisfactorily pass the American Red Cross -Water Safety Instructor Aids examination and receive your certificate. ==


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Horsemanship - Advanced

(Instructor Required) Note: All requirements should be completed in a safe environment with a gentle horse.

3. Demonstrate and explain how to care for tack.
Improperly cared-for tack can easily break and injure the rider, the horse, or both. Tack should be inspected every time it is used, and it should be cleaned and put away after every use as well.

Most tack is made from leather, though some is synthetic. Synthetic tack can be thrown into a washing machine, but leather must be meticulously care for. The greatest enemy to leather is mold and mildew. Once mold and mildew have attacked leather, it is nearly impossible to stop it from progressing and destroying the tack. Remove molded or mildewed tack from your other tack, or it will spread. Mold and mildew reproduce by making microscopic pores which become airborne and stick to any surface they come into contact with.

Once molded leather has been taken outside, you can attempt to save it. Start by wiping it down with a disposable wet cloth. Try to get up as much of the mold as you can without smearing it around. Then throw away the damp cloths. Use an old toothbrush to clean out the stitching and crevices. Once it has been thoroughly cleaned, do not put it away with the rest of your tack. Store it in a place by itself, and check it again after a week or two. If the mold has come back, there is probably nothing you can do other than dispose of the tack.

It is obviously better to prevent mold and mildew from getting a start on your tack. To do this, clean your tack after every use. Use a good-quality saddle soap and wipe down all surfaces, including the underside of the saddle (you need to remove the horse's sweat). The purpose of cleaning your tack is to remove salts and dirt. Salts can make leather brittle, while dirt works into the fibers and abrades them, weakening the tack.

Once the tack has been cleaned, store it in a warm, dry place that has plenty of circulation. Do not store tack in a plastic bag, as this effectively prohibits circulation. Many people store their tack in a corner of the barn, but you need to be aware that barns are often havens for mold and mildew.

Tack needs to be conditioned a few times per year after washing, but don't overdo it. If you find that the conditioners are rubbing off onto your clothing, you are definitely over-conditioning the tack. Remove excess conditioning oils with saddle soap and adjust accordingly.

The type of conditioner you use depends on how the leather was tanned. Vegetable-tanned leather should be conditioned with neatsfoot oil. Chrome-tanned leather should be conditioned with Lexol.

Demonstrate
Demonstrate and explain the listed knots. Knots shown below for reference.

10. Demonstrate and explain how to use a hoof pick.
A groom should be especially careful to clean out all crevasses of the hoof, particularly between the frog and the bars, as those areas are most likely to trap rocks or other debris, and also are the most common area to develop thrush. It is best to work the hoof pick from heel to toe, so to avoid accidentally jabbing the horse's leg, the frog of the hoof, or the person using the pick. When picking the feet, the groom stands facing the tail of the horse, then slides his or her hand down the horse's legs. If the horse was not trained to pick up its foot when the groom runs the hand the fetlock and lifts lightly, most horses will pick up their feet if the tendons behind their cannon bone are squeezed. Some horses, particularly draft breeds, may be trained to pick up their feet when someone pulls on their fetlock hair.

Most horse management guidelines recommend picking the feet daily, and many people pick the feet twice a day, both before and after a ride.

Horse Colors
Sorrel or Chestnut: A reddish brown horse with reddish, brown or tan mane and tail. Legs are the same color as the body. Their legs may also have white markings. Chestnut runs from very light reddish brown to red or very dark liver color.

Bay: A brown horse with black legs, mane and tail. Body color run from light brown, reddish to very dark brown, but legs, mane and tails are always black (they may also have white markings).

Brown: A very dark brown, almost black coat with lighter brown highlights on the muzzle, the flanks and inside the legs. Mane and tails are always black. They are hard to tell from dark bay.

White: White horses are born white. They have pink skins and usually blue or pink eyes.

Pinto: White plus large patches of black, brown, chestnut or any other colors.

Gray: Born dark with dark skin. Hair becomes whiter with age until pure white. A gray may range from iron gray (nearly black) to dapple gray, white gray or flea-bitten gray (with tiny flecks of black or brown).

Black: Coal black without brown highlights.

Palomino: Golden body color with white mane and tail. Can be a light to very dark gold color.

Face Markings

 * Blaze: A blaze is a broad strip that runs down the horse's face. It does not extend past the eyes, and it is wider than a stripe.
 * Stripe: A stripe is a narrow blaze.
 * Snip: A snip is a marking between the horse's nostrils
 * Star: A star is a marking between the eyes.
 * Race: A race is a crooked or wavy stripe or blaze.
 * Baldface: Baldface is a wide marking on the face that extends past the eyes. Often, a baldfaced horse will have blue eyes.

Leg Markings
In order of size:
 * 1. Stocking: Stockings extend above the knee or hock and can bleed onto the flank or belly.
 * 2. Fetlock or Sock: White marking that extends over the fetlock, occasionally called a "boot."
 * 3. Pastern: White marking that extends above the top of the hoof, but stops below the fetlock.
 * 4. Coronet: White just above the hoof, around coronary band, usually no more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the hoof.
 * 5. Partial Pastern: White marking on only one side of pastern.
 * 6. Ermine Spots: Tiny spots of the coat color that show up on a white marking near the coronet band just above the hoof.
 * 7. Black Socks or No White Markings: Some animals have no white on their legs, although some bay animals will have black socks similar to (or in addition to) white ones.

Additional terms used to describe white leg markings include:

 * Irregular: A marking within the broad confines of a given height, but with significantly uneven edges. Indicated by the highest point of the white. Most often used to describe certain types of stockings.
 * Partial: An irregular marking that only extends up part of the leg to the height indicated, sometimes with the other side of the leg dark. Usually used to describe socks and other short markings.
 * "High White:" White stockings that extend above the knee or hock, sometimes extending past the stifle onto the flank or belly, considered characteristic of the sabino color pattern.


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Cycling - Advanced

(2) Fork rake
Although the honor specifies "fork rate," the correct term is "rake." Technically, fork rake is the angle of the head-tube with reference to a line perpendicular to the ground. The closer to perpendicular, that is, the more steep the head-tube, the less "rake" the fork will have, where an angle further from perpendicular or shallow the head-tube angle (laid back geometry), the more rake. Motorcycles with high rake are often called "choppers."

The purpose of a steeper angle gives quicker, lighter, but less stable steering, a desirable feature in road racing and some mountain bikes. Shallower rake gives more stable, but slower handling, steering, better for general recreational bicycles and touring bikes.

Some people mistakenly believe that fork rake is the distance the front wheel is offset from an imaginary line extending through and parallel to the headtube. Technically, this is better termed "offset." Road racing and touring forks usually have a curve in the fork blade itself, while suspension forks have a curved fork crown (holds the fork legs and shocks to the steerer tube).

The purpose for fork offset is to absorb shock, and to prevent forks from cracking at the crown from the vertical pounding of road/trail vibration.

10. What are the advantages of drafting? Know how to safely and properly draft.
Drafting (or slipstreaming) is a technique where two vehicles or objects align in a close group to reduce the overall effect of drag by using the lead object's slipstream. When high speeds are involved, drafting can significantly reduce the group's average energy expenditure needed to keep a certain speed and can slightly reduce the energy used by the lead vehicle or object.

Drafting is used to reduce wind resistance and is seen most commonly in bicycle racing, car racing, and speed skating, though drafting is occasionally used even in cross-country skiing and running. Some forms of triathlon allow drafting. Drafting occurs in swimming as well, both in open-water races (occurring in natural bodies of water) and in traditional races in competition pools. In a competition pool, a swimmer may hug the lane line that separates him/her from a swimmer of whom s/he is abaft, thereby taking advantage of the liquid slipstream in the other swimmer's wake.

In cycling, the main (largest) group of tightly packed cyclists in a race is called a peloton, while cyclists riding in straight-line formation, each (but the first) drafting behind the one in front of him, is called a pace line.

Drafting can be cooperative, in which several competitors take turns in the lead position (which requires the most effort and energy consumption). Or, it can be competitive or tactical, where one competitor will try to stay closely behind another leaving him or her more energy for a break-away push to the finish line.

11. Know the different clothing and safety equipment used in bicycling and the advantages of each.
Different types of cycling have different clothing and protective gear. However, some are common to all cycling:
 * 1) Helmet - protects head in the event of an accident, can provide sun shade and protection. Are required in some places, or for some ages.
 * 2) Gloves - protects hands, usually the first body part to hit the ground in the event of an accident; padding in gloves eases fatigue and can provide some shock-absorption. Gloves protect road-riders' hands when cleaning glass, gravel, etc., from tires while riding.
 * 3) Glasses - keeps bugs and debris out of the eyes, and keeps eyes from watering in cold weather or high-speed rides. Sunglasses reduce glare and keep eyes from becoming over-tired.

General safety equipment which is not required, but used by some cyclists includes:
 * 1) Mirrors - these attach to the handlebars or rider's helmet for seeing cars/cyclists behind. These can be important for commuters, bicycle messengers, or those cycling in urban/suburban environments.
 * 2) Bells - mountain bikers on hidden singletrack trails, or cyclists in busy areas may use handle-bar mouned, finger-activated bells to warn of approach.

Riding at night has it's own safety requirements:
 * 1) Front and rear lights - these are required in some locales after sunset.
 * 2) Reflectors - mounted on wheels, pedals, frame, seatpost or handlebars are the most common.
 * 3) Reflective clothing - many makers of cycling clothing integrate reflective tape or strips on shoes, pants/shorts, shirts/jackets or helmets.


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Drilling & Marching - Advanced

a. Order Guidon
Order Guidon is basically like standing at ATTENTION. The guidon rests on the ground next to your right foot. The staff of the guidon is held between your thumb and index finger and rests against your shoulder. Your right arm should remain behind the staff of the guidon. When doing ABOUT FACE, LEFT FACE, or RIGHT FACE, lift the guidon 1 or 2 inches off the ground while turning and then return the guidon to the ground as before.

b. Carry Guidon
Carry Guidon refers to how a guidon is to be held while moving. When FORWARD MARCH is called the guidon is lifted 6 inches off the ground. When the drill instructor calls "FORWARD" you lift the guidon 6 inches with your right arm, then hold the guidon staff with your left arm reaching across your chest while sliding your right hand back down 6 inches to hold the guidon while marching. When the drill instructor calls "MARCH" you then drop your left arm back to your side while stepping forward with your left foot (just as you would when marching any other time). To lower the guidon when finished moving (when the drill instructor calls HALT), take your left arm across your chest to steady the guidon and then let it gently slide to the ground. Once the guidon is resting on the ground again, drop your left arm back to your side.

e. Present Guidon
Present Guidon continues further from the position of "Raised Guidon." On the command of execution for PRESENT ARMS or EYES RIGHT, gently lower the guidon staff forward from the "Raised Guidon" position until it is horizontal with the guidon staff resting under your right armpit. Then return your left hand to your side. When doing EYES RIGHT don't forget to not only present the guidon, but also turn your head to the right as well. When lowering the guidon from presentation, grasp the guidon staff with your left hand and raise it to the position of "Raised Guidon" at the preparatory command. When the command of execution is called, lower the guidon to either the carry position or the rest position.

f. Raise Guidon
Raise Guidon is the act of lifting the guidon from the order position. To raise the guidon, lift the staff with your right hand until it reaches your right shoulder. Reach across your chest with your left arm (make sure your palm is facing towards your body) to steady the guidon as it is being raised. Keep your right elbow at your side while executing a command. To lower the guidon, gently let the staff slide to the ground and then return your left arm to your side.

6. As a member of a drill team, do four fancy (precision) drill routines, at least one of which includes combination commands.
==7. Command a drill team of at least four people, putting the team through basic maneuvers, starting directional commands on the proper foot, and distinguishing between preparatory commands and commands of execution. ==

8. Command an entire Pathfinder Club in at least ten basic drill movements, including Open Ranks.
==9. With a unit (or a selected flag guard), formally raise and lower the national flag at a summer camp ceremony, a special Pathfinder meeting, Pathfinder Day program, camporee, or some similar program or ceremony. Also demonstrate posting the national and Pathfinder flag. ==


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Drilling & Marching

This chapter of the Adventist Youth Honors Answer book is intended to help you teach or learn the Drilling and Marching honor. It is not to be considered the authoritative source or the final word on the Pathfinder way of drilling and marching. For that, we refer you to the Pathfinder Club Drill Manual published by the NAD.

1. Explain five or more objective of drilling.

 * 1) Order: It helps maintain an organized unit.
 * 2) Morale: Training discipline and group unity.
 * 3) Enjoyment: Fun activity, promotes use of imagination.
 * 4) Fellowship: Helps one learn to take orders, and follow them.
 * 5) Leadership: Helps one learn to give orders and build confidence.
 * 6) Self Control: Pay attention to leader.
 * 7) Respect: Regard for the rights of others.
 * 8) Obedience: Learn to follow rules and regulations.

a. Formation
Formation is the arrangement of the elements of a Pathfinder drill formation in any prescribed manner.

b. Line
Line is a formation in which the elements are side by side or abreast of each other. In a club line the Pathfinders in each unit are abreast of each other with the units one behind the other.

c. Distance
Distance is the space between people within a column (front to back).

d. Rank
A rank is a line that is only one element in depth.

e. Interval
An interval is the distance between persons standing next to each other.

f. Column
A column is formed when people stand one behind one another.

g. File
A file is a single column.

h. Distance
Distance is the space between people within a column (front to back).

i. Cover
The cover command is used to align yourself with the person in front of you while maintaining correct distance.

j. Flank
Flank is the right or left side of any formation from the point of view of someone within that formation.

k. Cadence
Cadence is the uniform rhythm in which a movement is executed, or the number of steps or counts per minute at which the movement is executed.

a. At Ease, Stand At Ease, and Parade Rest

 * Parade, REST is the most "strict" of these three commands. It may be called only from the position of Attention. On preparatory commands, the position of Parade REST should be assumed when at STAND AT EASE, AT EASE, or REST. Pathfinders execute Parade REST by moving the left leg out (so feet are about 12 inches apart) and placing both hands in the small of the back, with the right hand on top of the left and thumbs locked together.  The head and eyes are to be kept looking straight ahead, because Parade REST is simply a more relaxed form of Attention.  STAND AT EASE, AT EASE, or REST and the directive for PRAYER ATTENTION may all be given from this position.
 * STAND AT EASE is slightly more relaxed than Parade REST. To do this command, execute parade rest as described above; however, the head and eyes are to follow the commander at all times.  Some clubs may allow the hands to relax during STAND AT EASE, but this is not permissible according to the NAD Drill Manual.  AT EASE and REST may be commanded from this position.
 * AT EASE is more relaxed yet. The right foot must stay "glued" in its place to the ground.  Pathfinders are allowed to move around (except for the right foot!), but you must remain silent and standing.  REST may be commanded from this position.

b. Mark Time, Quick Time, and Double Time

 * MARK TIME is a command meaning to march in place. When a unit is in Mark time, they should adjust and maintain their intervals and distances. To be proper, it should only be called from Quick time or Half step (Not Double time or from the Halt).  However, many clubs find it helpful to use this command from attention for the purpose of instruction. MARK TIME, MARCH can be called as either foot strikes the ground. When the command is given, take one more step after the command of execution (MARCH), plant the trailing foot alongside your stationary foot and march in place. Each foot should be alternately raised approximately 2 inches off the ground at the pace of Quick time. Allow your arms to swing naturally and adjust your alignment as necessary.
 * QUICK TIME is marching to the cadence of 120 counts or steps per minute with appx. a 24-inch step. Your arms should swing naturally 9 inches straight to the front and 6 inches to the rear of the seams on your pants. The arms should not bend at the elbow and your fingers should be curled as in the position of attention. Head and eyes should be fixed to the front. Younger Pathfinders may find this hard to achieve at first, but with the help of an instructor, they should be able to master this very quickly.
 * DOUBLE TIME is the cadence of 180 counts or steps per minute. The length of the steps is also to be appx. 24 inches. The command DOUBLE TIME, MARCH is given either from a halt or as either foot strikes the ground while marching at Quick time. When given from the halt, at the command MARCH, raise your forearms up to a horizontal position with your fingers and thumb closed, knuckles out, and step off with your left foot. Continue to march at the 180 steps per minute cadence until further instructed. When marching at Quick time, at the command MARCH, take one more step at Quick time and step off with your trailing foot at Double time in the same manner as previously instructed. The only movements that can be executed at Double time are Halt, Quick time, Column Right/Left, and Column Half Right/Left.

c. Hand Salute and Present Arms

 * PRESENT, ARMS is mostly used to salute the flag and is a one-count movement given only at the position of attention. To execute this command, raise the right arm and bend at the elbow.  The fingers of the right hand should touch the eyebrow, or if glasses are being worn the rim of the glasses, or if a cap or hat is being worn, the brim of the hat (if both glasses and a cap are worn, touch the brim of the cap).  The upper arm should be parallel to the ground, and the forearm, wrist, and right hand/fingers should form a straight line (i.e. no bending at joints).  The elbow should be swung back so that it does not stick out in front of the body, but not so far that it is behind the body.  To Order, ARMS (a one-count movement), simply lower the right arm smartly to your side and resume the position of Attention.  There should be no slapping sounds when executing this command.
 * HAND SALUTE is exactly like Present, ARMS but without a command. When reporting or when rendering courtesy, turn the head and eyes toward the person addressed as you salute. Upon acknowledgment, terminate the salute like Order, ARMS, but without a command.

d. Right (Left) Flank and Column Right (Left)

 * RIGHT/LEFT FLANK, MARCH - Both the preparatory command (RIGHT/LEFT FLANK) and the command of execution (MARCH) are both given as the foot in the indicated direction strikes the ground (i.e. Left foot for Left Flank). The interval between the preparatory command and the command of execution is one step. At the command MARCH, each Pathfinder takes one more step, turns in the indicated direction on the ball of his leading foot, and steps off in the new direction with his trailing foot. Once marching in the new direction, glance out of the corner of your eye and dress to the right.
 * COLUMN RIGHT/LEFT, MARCH - COLUMN RIGHT/LEFT, MARCH can be given from the halt or while marching. From the Halt, the command COLUMN RIGHT/LEFT, MARCH is given and the lead Pathfinder in the column nearest the direction given executes a 90-degree turn in the indicated direction and steps off with their left foot in the new direction taking one 24-inch step then continue at a Half step (12 inches) until the other columns catch up. The lead Pathfinders in the other columns execute a 45-degree turn in the given direction and step off with their left foot in the new direction taking 24-inch steps and continue in an arc. As they come abreast of the other leaders they take up the Half Step. When all leaders are abreast, they step off with a 24-inch step without command. All other club members march forward on the command of execution and execute the column movement at approximately the same location as their unit leaders and in the same manner. While marching, both the preparatory command (COLUMN RIGHT/LEFT) and the command of execution (MARCH) are both given as the foot in the indicated direction strikes the ground (i.e. Left foot for Column Left). The interval between the preparatory command and the command of execution is one step. The execution of the command from here is the same as described above.

a. Attention
Standing at attention requires your feet to be together with your toes at a 45 degree angle. Your hands should be at your sides and curled as if you were holding a coin roll with the thumb over the first knuckle of your index finger. Your eyes should be always facing forward. You are not allowed to talk unless directed to do so. Most stationary commands, as well as the commands used to move a group forward, are called from this position.

b. Parade Rest
Like ATTENTION, your eyes should always be facing forward. When called to PARADE REST, your left foot moves away from your right foot and is set back down when your feet are about a shoulder width apart. Your hands are now behind you at the small of your back with the left hand behind the right hand. The command PARADE REST may only be given from ATTENTION.

c. Stand At Ease
STAND AT EASE is exactly like PARADE REST except for two things. The first is that each person's eyes and head should follow the person instructing/addressing the group until the instructor has moved beyond a marcher's shoulder at which point the marcher's head should revert to looking forward until they can see the instructor again. The second is that a marcher's hands may be lower than that of PARADE REST, though the hands must still be in the same order (back of right hand against the left palm). STAND AT EASE may be called from ATTENTION or PARADE REST.

d. At Ease
AT EASE is much like PARADE REST. Though you must be quiet and keep your right foot in place, you may otherwise move as needed. Your hands are also allowed to be lower than required for PARADE REST, just like STAND AT EASE. The command "At Ease" may be given from ATTENTION, PARADE REST, or STAND AT EASE.

e. Dress Right Dress
When the command DRESS RIGHT DRESS is given, each person in the group (except for the group's left most file) extends their left arm. Each person in the group also (except for the group's right most file) turns their head to the right so that they may adjust themselves until they are just touching the fingertip(s) of the person on their right. The group's right most file never moves as everyone is to line up on them while executing DRESS RIGHT DRESS. Each member of the group continues to stay with their left arm up and their head turned to the right (unless they are part of the two files with exceptions) until the command READY FRONT (used to bring the group back to ATTENTION from DRESS RIGHT DRESS) is called. No command other than READY FRONT may be called from DRESS RIGHT DRESS.

f. Prayer Attention
PRAYER ATTENTION is exactly like PARADE REST, but goes one step further. When a group is called to PRAYER ATTENTION, they must also bow their heads. Male Pathfinders & Staff should take off and hold (behind their back) with their right hand, any headgear that they may have on. At the end of the prayer (without commands) each person is to return to PARADE REST (Men also put headgear back on). PRAYER ATTENTION may only be called from PARADE REST.

g. Present Arms
When the command PRESENT ARMS is given, each person is to raise their right hand to just above their eyebrow. The upper arm should be out horizontal to the ground. The thumb and fingers should be fully extended and should only just touching above your eyebrow, glasses rims, or hat bill. This command can only be given from ATTENTION.

h. Order Arms
The command ORDER ARMS is used to bring a person or persons back to ATTENTION from PRESENT ARMS. All a person must do is to bring their arm down to their side from PRESENT ARMS without slapping the arm against their leg.

i. Right Face
The command of RIGHT FACE is used to turn a person or persons to the (you guessed it) right. When the command is given, those who are to execute the command should lift their right toes and left heel and then pivot to the right on their right heel and left toes while turning to the right. The command is given only from ATTENTION and when completed, everyone should again be at ATTENTION.

j. Left Face
LEFT FACE is just like RIGHT FACE except that you lift your left toes and right heel and pivot on your left heel and right toes while turning to the left.

k. About Face
The command ABOUT FACE is used to turn a person or persons around 180 degrees. To do this, you put your right foot (toes pointed down) behind your left heel. Next, turn to your right (not too quickly or you will fall over) until you have turned completely around to face the opposite way that you were facing previously. This command is only issued from ATTENTION.

l. Fall Out
The command FALL OUT is one of the commands that dismisses a person or group of people. When the command FALL OUT is given, you are free to break from formation (Yes. One person can be a formation). Do not stray far from whoever is instructing you or your group though. FALL OUT does not give you permission to walk off where ever you feel like. Only when the command DISMISSED is given may you leave to wherever you want. The command FALL OUT can only be given from ATTENTION.

a. Mark Time
Mark time, march can be called when the unit is at attention or marching. The marchers will march in place when the command is called, and they should correct their intervals and distances as necessary. If halt is called after mark time, march, the unit should be able to dress right, dress and cover without having to move the feet.

b. Forward March
When forward march is called, the unit steps out with the left foot and begins to march forward. If the unit is marching to music (in 4/4 time) or calling a cadence, the left foot will always land on the "odd" beat, and the right foot will always land on an "even" beat. In 4/4 time, the "count" goes 1, 2, 3, 4 and then repeats:

 * 1: Left
 * 2: Right
 * 3: Left
 * 4: Right
 * 1: Left
 * 2: Right
 * 3: Left
 * 4: Right

If the unit is marching without music, the rightmost person in the front rank is by definition "in step." Everyone else must be in step with that person.

if the unit is already in motion (stationary marching) the command "forward march" should be on the left foot.

c. Right Flank
When right flank is called, every person in the unit simultaneously pivots to the right by 90 degrees and continues marching in the new direction. After this command is executed, the file that was right-most when it was called will become the front rank. The person who was last in that column will now be the marker - meaning he will be the right-most person in the front rank.

Right flank should be called on the right foot (that is, the command of execution should be spoken by the instructor when the right foot hits the ground). The unit then steps forward with the left, and everyone pivots to the right on their toes. Following this, the unit will step out with the left foot.

d. Left Flank
When left flank is called, every person in the unit simultaneously pivots to the left by 90 degrees and continues marching in the new direction. After this command is executed, the file that was left-most when it was called will become the front rank. The person who was first in that column will now be the marker - meaning he will be the right-most person in the front rank.

Left flank should be called on the left foot (that is, the command of execution should be spoken by the instructor when the left foot hits the ground). The unit then steps forward with the right foot, and everyone pivots to the left on their toes. Following this, the unit will step out with the right foot.

e. Column Right (with columns of three or four persons)
When column right, march is called, the person in the front rank on the right makes a tight pivot turn to the right by 90 degrees. As he turns, the other members in his rank also turn, but remain in a straight line side by side of one another. When the entire rank is facing 90 degrees to the right, they continue marching forward in the new direction.

When the next rank reaches the same point at which the turn was made by the front rank, that rank turns in the same manner that the first ran did. All ranks continue until the entire unit is marching in the same direction.

This command is called only when the unit is in motion.

Some groups find it useful to practice this maneuver while each rank holds onto a broom stick or pole. This helps keep the rank in a straight line.

f. Column Left (with columns of three or four persons)
When column left, march is called, the person in the front rank on the left makes a tight pivot turn to the left by 90 degrees. As he turns, the other members in his rank also turn, but remain in a straight line abreast of one another. When the entire rank is facing 90 degrees to the left, they continue marching forward in the new direction.

When the next rank reaches the same point at which the turn was made by the front rank, that rank turns in the same manner that the first rank did. All ranks continue until the entire unit is marching in the same direction.

This command is called only when the unit is in motion.

g. Rear March
This command is called on the right foot. When Rear, March is called, the marcher takes a step with the left foot, then swivels to the right on the toes of the left foot until facing the opposite direction, and then steps out again with the left foot (which should be at the rear after the marcher turns around). This command should only be called when the unit is marching or marking time.

h. Halt
The command to halt should be called on the right foot. The marchers will then take a step with the left foot as normal, and then take a half-step with the right foot, bringing it even with the left, and stop, remaining at attention. giving it two counts only from the command of execution to full stop.

Flag Protocol
On Memorial Day the flag should be flown half-staff till noon

 * Pathfinder Club Drill Manual

/Completed Honors


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Cookbook:Key Lime Meringue Pie

| Southern U.S. Cuisine | Dessert

Key lime pie is made of Key lime juice, eggs, condensed milk, and sugar in a pre-baked pie shell. The pie is then baked, and often topped with meringue or whipped cream. Other recipes (with slightly different ingredients) call for it to be chilled or frozen, using an unbaked Graham cracker crust. This makes it a popular summer dessert. The dish is named after the small Key limes (Citrus aurantifolia 'Swingle') that are naturalized throughout the Florida Keys. Their ferocious thorns make them less tractable and their thin yellowish rind makes them less shippable, but they are both tarter and more aromatic than the common Persian limes seen year-round in most U.S. grocery stores.

Proper Key lime pie is made with canned sweetened condensed milk, since fresh milk was not a common commodity in the Florida Keys before modern refrigerated distribution methods.

Key lime juice, unlike regular lime juice, is a pale yellow. As such, Key lime pies are also pale yellow. Green Key lime pies, such as the one in the opening scene of Natural Born Killers, are not authentic, and the green color is due to added food coloring. Many "Key lime" pies are made with standard Persian limes since they tend to be larger and yield more juice, thus making them easier to work with.

During mixing, a reaction between the condensed milk and the acidic lime juice occurs, which causes the filling to thicken on its own without requiring baking. Many early recipes for key lime pie did not instruct the cook to bake the pie, relying on this chemical reaction to produce the proper consistency of the filling. Today, in the interest of safety due to consumption of raw eggs, pies of this nature are usually baked for a short time. The baking also thickens the texture more than the reaction alone.

Pie

 * 1 fully-baked 9-inch (25 cm / 9 oz) graham cracker or pastry pie shell
 * 1 can (14 oz / 400 g) sweetened condensed milk
 * ½ cup fresh Key lime juice
 * 4 egg yolks

Meringue topping (optional)

 * 4 egg whites
 * ½ cup caster sugar

Equipment

 * Small mixing bowl
 * Spatula
 * Stand mixer

Procedure

 * 1) Separate egg whites from egg yolks. Make sure there is no trace of yolk in the whites.
 * 2) Beat the sweetened condensed milk, lime juice, and egg yolks in a small mixing bowl.
 * 3) Pour the mixture into the baked pie shell. Bake at 350°F (180°C) for 8 minutes.
 * 4) While baking filling, whip egg whites in a large, clean mixer bowl on high speed until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the sugar until meringue forms hard peaks.
 * 5) Spoon the meringue over the top of the hot pie and use a spoon to form peaks.
 * 6) Bake at 350°F (180°C) for 10–15 minutes, or until meringue begins to brown.

title: Cookbook:Key Lime Meringue Pie


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Cookbook:Black Bean Chili

| American Cuisine | Vegetarian Cuisine | Beans | Chili

Ingredients

 * 3½ cups (8 dL) dried black beans
 * 2 tablespoons (30 mL) corn oil or other vegetable oil
 * 1 medium onion, diced
 * 2 cloves garlic, minced
 * 1 chipotle chile
 * ¼ ancho chile
 * 1 tablespoon (15 mL) cumin
 * 1 tablespoon (15 mL) paprika
 * 1 tablespoon (15 mL) dried oregano
 * ¾ tablespoon (11 mL) sea salt
 * ⅛ teaspoon (1 mL) cayenne pepper
 * 2 tablespoons (30 mL) wine vinegar (red or white)
 * 1½ cups (350 mL) diced tomatoes
 * 1½ cups (350 mL) tomato puree
 * 4 cups (1 L) water
 * Sour cream for garnish

Procedure

 * 1) Place beans in a large pot, add with enough water to cover by 2 inches (2.5 cm), and allow to soak overnight. Drain beans and cover again with fresh water. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 2 hours.
 * 2) Heat the corn oil in a stockpot or other very large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté until tender, about 3 minutes. Add garlic, chipotle and ancho chiles, cumin, paprika, oregano, salt, cayenne, and vinegar, and sauté for 5 to 10 minutes.
 * 3) Add tomatoes, tomato puree, and the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the beans with their juice. Simmer for 1 hour.
 * 4) Serve with or without sour cream.

title: Cookbook:Black Bean Chili


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Template:Isometric Pixel Art

About FAQ Intro 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Gallery

title: Template:Isometric Pixel Art


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Gujarati/Gujarat

Introduction
Ever since its inception, Gujarat has been showing a new direction to the nation during the last 43 years. It is conquering new grounds and is still at ease with the Number One position among different states in the country. In the 21st Century, its goal is to be compared with the economic growth rate of developed nations.

Area :                 1,96,024 km2 Population :           50,671,017 Capital :              Gandhinagar Principal Languages :  Gujarati

History and Geography
The history of Gujarat goes back to 2000 BC. It is believed that Lord Krishna left Mathura to settle on the west coast of Saurashtra, which later came to be known as Dwarka, the gateway. Later, it saw various kingdoms: Mauryas, Guptas, Pratiharas and others. It was with Chalukya (Solankis) that Gujarat witnessed progress and prosperity. In spite of the plundering of Mahmud Ghazni, the Chalukya kings were able to maintain general prosperity and well-being of the State. After this glorious respite, Gujarat faced troubled times under the Muslims, Marathas and the British rule. Before Independence, the present territories of Gujarat used to be in two parts, the British and the Princely territories. With the re-organisation of the States, the Union of the States of Saurashtra and the Union Territory of Kachchh along with the former British, Gujarat became a part of the biggest bilingual State of Bombay. The present State of Gujarat came into being on May, 1960. It is situated on the west coast of India. The state is bounded by the Arabian Sea on the west, Pakistan and Rajasthan in the north and north-east respectively, Madhya Pradesh in the south-east and Maharashtra in the south.

title: Gujarati/Gujarat


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User:Bilderbikkel

= Bilderbikkel =

I am a graduated biologist and a heavy CodePedia ( http://www.codepedia.com, a wiki for programmers) contributor. I want to put more of my material into the WikiBooks and improve the content of my favorite pages on both Wiki's.

title: User:Bilderbikkel


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19th Century Literature

Welcome to the guide to 19th Century Literature. This book will present the major authors of the 19th century by giving brief extracts from their major works, coupled with notes on both the extract as well as the author's life and oeuvre. In doing so, it is hoped that this book will present not only an introduction to the literature of the nineteenth century, but also to the analytical skills needed to fully enjoy a literary work. Please help us write this book by adding any knowledge or expertise you may have on 19th Century Literature!

Contents

 * /General Introduction to 19th Century Literature/
 * This chapter is designed to give you a brief overview of the major authors, schools and tendencies of 19th century literature, whilst introducing you to the social, political, cultural and economic situation of the times.

 * Bartleby the Scrivener by Herman Melville
 * Melville's classic short story Bartleby the Scrivener is a tale of the alienation of an office worker. It is also, some have argued, a precursor to absurdist writing in the 20th Century.

 * The Scarlet Letter by Nathaniel Hawthorne
 * This novel by Hawthorne is the story of Hester Prynne, whose adultery leads to her punishment by wearing the 'scarlet letter' her child.

 * Frankenstein by Mary Shelley
 * The infamous tale of a scientist whose experiments to create life after death went horribly wrong.

 * Jane Eyre by Charlotte Brontë
 * This novel follows Jane's life of hardship and her hope of finding someone to love.

 * Tess of the d'Urbervilles by Thomas Hardy
 * Written to highlight the difficulties of life for contemporary rural people.

 * Sense and Sensibility by Jane Austen
 * A spirited tale of two very different sisters, both in need of a husband.

 * Washington Square by Henry James
 * James's story of Catherine Sloper and her witty but manipulative father is recognized as one of the classics of American literature.

 * Dracula by Bram Stoker
 * Having seen the movies it may surprise you to find the original novel was written in the form of various characters' personal diaries.

 * /The Poetry of John Keats/

title: 19th Century Literature


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19th Century Literature/Bartleby the Scrivener

Herman Melville - an introduction
Herman Melville (1819–1891) was an American writer of essays, short stories and novels. While his early novels enjoyed some success, his later efforts, including the classic Moby Dick and the novel Pierre were poorly received. It is only later on that his work has been rediscovered and celebrated.

Preliminary Questions to Consider

 * 1) What type of narrator does Melville use? What is the effect of this in the last paragraph?
 * 2) Why does Bartleby continue to reply: 'I would prefer not to.'?
 * 3) What does the narrator mean by 'natural expectancy of instant compliance' and how is this challenged?


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The Computer Revolution/Hardware/Jump Drives

A jump drive, also known as a USB flash drive or thumb drive, is a type of storage device that is simply connected to the computer through an existing USB port.

They use flash memory, which enables them to bring unparalleled convenience when compared to other storage devices. Jump drives do not require the computer to be restarted in order to recognize the drive, unlike other connected drives that need to be recognized during the boot process. Jump drives rely on power provided by the case and do not need an external power supply like electricity or batteries, which increases their portable convenience and eliminates the need to carry around batteries or to find a socket to plug into for electrical power. Because of the use of flash memory, jump drives do not wear down as fast as CD-RW's or Floppy disks and have comparable dependability to solid-state drives, which utilize the same type of memory.

The capacity of USB drives is another feature that makes them convenient. Today, USB drives can be found to have a capacity of up to 64 GB. This capacity is likely to change with the ever-evolving storage technology.

To use a USB drive or jump drive you need to plug it to your computer via the USB port. You May need to wait a second or two for your computer to read the USB drive. On Windows, you can view it by going to my computer or just computer on Windows 7. Then look under device with removal storage select the right drive and you are ready to save your document in to the USB drive.