text:
Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Drywall

The process by which drywall is installed.

Materials

 * Types of Drywall
 * 1) Gypsum Board
 * 2) *Used for walls and ceilings.
 * 3) *Size
 * 4) **Length x Height: 4'x8', 4'x10', 4'x12', or larger
 * 5) **Width: 1/2" or 5/8"
 * 6) Greenboard
 * 7) *Typically used in wet areas, including walls around bathtub and shower.
 * 8) *Note: Greenboard is NOT water-proof.
 * 9) Concrete Backerboard
 * 10) *Marketed under the names "Durock" and "Wonderboard".
 * 11) *Used as backing for ceramic tile.
 * 12) *Also ideal for wet areas such as shower walls and bathtub surround.
 * Drywall Screws
 * 1-1/4" Screws for 1/2" Drywall
 * 1-5/8" Screws for 5/8" Drywall

Tools

 * Utility Knife
 * Drywall T-Square
 * Tape Measure
 * Drywall Saw
 * Edge Sander (rasp)
 * Contractor's Pencil
 * Chalk line
 * Drywall Jack
 * Screw Gun

Procedure

 * 1) Measure the dimensions of the space in which drywall is being installed
 * 2) Mark these dimensions on a full sheet of drywall
 * 3) Extend marks with T-square
 * 4) Mark locations of studs on drywall (studs are typically 16" on center)
 * 5) Snap chalk line on drywall to extend stud marks
 * 6) Score drywall along edge marks
 * 7) Snap drywall along score
 * 8) Score back of drywall along the break. Separate piece to be used from remainder.
 * 9) If the piece covers an outlet, switch, or other fixture, complete the following steps:
 * 10) Measure distance from intended edge of sheet to bottom left hand corner and top right hand corner of fixture
 * 11) Mark these points on drywall
 * 12) Use T-square to extend point 1 right and up and point 2 left and down.
 * 13) Score these lines, using a utility knife.
 * 14) Re-score lines several times in order to make a thick cut.
 * 15) Gently punch out hole.

Ceiling

 * 1) Prop a full sheet butted against a corner perpendicular to the length of the ceiling joists.
 * 2) Drive Screws
 * 3) *Drive one screw in each corner of piece.
 * 4) *Drive row of screws (one per stud using chalk lines) on each length edge. Drive additional row every foot (if the sheet is 4' wide and 8' long there should be 4 rows of 6 screws each).
 * 5) Prop another full sheet butted against wall and first sheet perpendicular to length of the ceiling joists. Repeat step 2.
 * 6) Continue to prop and hang full sheets butted against wall and previous sheet as space permits.
 * 7) Follow measuring and cutting procedure for finishing ceiling with pieces smaller than full sheets.

Top Sheets

 * 1) Prop full sheet butted against the ceiling and adjacent wall horizontally.
 * 2) Drive Screws
 * 3) *Drive one screw in each corner of piece.
 * 4) *Drive row of screws (one per stud using chalk lines) on each length edge and middle of the sheet (length-wise). Drive additional screws every foot along each width edge. (if the sheet is 4' wide and 8' long there should be 2 rows of 6 screws each along each length edge, one row of 4 screws along middle and 2 additional screws in each width edge).
 * 5) Prop full sheet butted against ceiling and previous sheet. Repeat step 2.
 * 6) Continue to prop and hang full sheets butted against ceiling as space permits (each wall should be considered as separate spaces).
 * 7) Follow measuring and cutting procedure for finishing wall with pieces smaller than full sheets.
 * 8) Repeat for all walls.

Bottom Sheets

 * 1) Prop full sheet butted against top sheet and adjacent wall horizontally.
 * 2) Drive Screws
 * 3) *Drive one screw in each corner of piece.
 * 4) *Drive row of screws (one per stud using chalk lines) on each length edge and middle of the sheet (length-wise). Drive additional screws every foot along each width edge. (if the sheet is 4' wide and 8' long there should be 2 rows of 6 screws each along each length edge, one row of 4 screws along middle and 2 additional screws in each width edge).
 * 5) Prop full sheet butted against top sheet and previous sheet. Repeat step 2.
 * 6) Continue to prop and hang full sheets butted against top sheets as space permits (each wall should be considered as separate spaces).
 * 7) Follow measuring and cutting procedure for finishing wall with pieces smaller than full sheets.

Materials

 * Joint Compound
 * Joint Tape and/or Mesh Tape
 * Corner Bead
 * Water

Tool List

 * Putty Knife
 * Sizes: 4", 8", 12"
 * Tin Snips
 * Joint Compound Trough
 * Sanding Sponge Block
 * Hand Sander w/ Sanding Screens (various grit available)

Suggested PPE

 * N95 Dust Mask (for sanding)
 * Goggles (optional for sanding)

Puttying Procedure

 * Outside Corner (two walls meet to form a convex corner)
 * 1) Measure length of corner
 * 2) Using tin snips, cut corner bead to match length of corner.
 * 3) Align bead with corner, flaps along each wall.
 * 4) Gently hammer bead into place with rubber mallet.
 * 5) Secure in place with screws through the holes manufactured into the bead. Space these screws about 5" apart.

NOTE: The screws should be sunk as far in as possible without breaking through the metal corner bead NOTE: Maintaining the same angle the entire length of the corner bead helps keep the mud as smooth as possible
 * 1) Run a dry knife up and down the corner bead
 * 2) If the Knife rubs against the screw or the outside edge of the corner bead sink the screws more or place more screws as needed
 * 3) Apply heavy narrow layer of compound along bead with 4" knife
 * 4) Place one edge of 12" knife perpendicular to edge of corner bead at the top of the corner. Drag knife at a 45% angle along length of bead.
 * 1) Continue to add compound using 4" knife and repeat step 7 until a uniform layer is achieved. Bead edge should be free of excess compound and wall edge should be feathered (not pronounced).
 * 2) Allow to dry, lightly sand knife marks, bead edge and wall edge to achieve smooth finish.
 * 3) Repeat procedure at least once, widening the layer with each application.

Everything below is under construction
NOTE: If there are bubbles visible between the wall and the tape pull that area pf tape back off the wall and resmooth it as needed
 * Inside Corner
 * Apply a thin coat of compound to the corner area. Make this wide enough to extend past the width of the tape
 * Using a corner knife, embed paper tape in compound.
 * Start at the top with the edge of the tape and run it down the seam.
 * Make sure that half is on each wall.
 * Use only one piece of tape for the whole corner.
 * Cover the compound on one side at a time, until tape is not visible on either side.
 * Regular Seams
 * Measure the length of tape needed by holding one end of the tape at one end of the seam and pulling the roll along the seam until the other end of the seam is met.
 * Fold the tape vertical and tear along the fold to insure a straight edge on the tape will meet another seam or the corner
 * using a 4 inch knife place a thin layer of mud the width of the knife starting at one end of the seam and ending approximately 18 inches (the length from one screw on the seam to another)from where you started making sure that one-half the knife is on each side of the seam as you place the mud on the wall
 * Taking the tape already cut to length place one end of the tape at the edge of the mud that was already placed on the wall
 * With your fingers smooth the tape onto the wall covering the mud already placed on the wall to insure a tight smooth fit to the wall
 * Pull a dry knife along the tape holding it as parallel to the wall as possible but still putting constant pressure on the tape
 * Nail Dimples and Other Blemishes
 * Apply a dab of compound to the dimple or blemish, holding the knife at 45 degrees to the wall.
 * Level the surface with the knife, holding it at 90 degrees to the wall. This will create a smooth layer.
 * Additional Coats
 * Allow the initial coat 24 hours to completely dry.
 * Lightly sand all edges and large ridges.
 * Re-putty all areas, feathering out to 6".
 * Wait for drying, re-sand, and apply a final coat of putty, feathering out to 12".
 * After allowing time to dry, lightly sand over every area with compound until the wall is smooth.
 * After allowing time to dry, lightly sand over every area with compound until the wall is smooth.

title: Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Drywall


text:
Muggles' Guide to Harry Potter/Places/Honeyduke's Sweetshop

General Overview
Honeyduke's Sweet Shop is a candy and treat store in the Village of Hogsmeade. It is very popular among Hogwarts students, on those occasions when they are allowed into the village ("Hogsmeade weekends").

Extended Description
Honeyduke's is also the terminus of one of the secret passages out of the school, used extensively by Harry in Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, and also presumably by Sirius Black to enter the school in that same book. Once Harry has received permission to visit Hogsmeade on the weekends, which he does at the end of the book, he has little further need for that passage. The only other mention of that passage is the note in passing that "all known secret passages into the school" have been sealed, mentioned in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.

Because of this, it seems that we see Honeyduke's to any great extent only in the third book. There is passing mention of the store, which Harry apparently visits many other times he is in Hogsmeade, but it seems much of his interest in the village is centered on The Three Broomsticks. In the sixth book, we do visit Honeyduke's during the only Hogsmeade visit that year: Harry, Ron, and Hermione run into Professor Slughorn, who is there buying some of his favorite crystallized pineapple.

In the third book, it is noted that there is a section of the store devoted to "unusual tastes", including blood-based treats clearly intended for vampires, and Cockroach Clusters. One must wonder exactly which sub-group of wizards would be interested in the last, however, as we are not introduced to any insectivore wizards in the series. That specific treat, though, does reappear; for some unknown reason, Professor Dumbledore, who uses the names of sweets as the password for his office door, at one point is found to have Cockroach Cluster as his office password.

Analysis
What could possibly be more likely than having a confectionery within walking distance of a boarding school? It is almost necessary to have a candy store near Hogwarts. Strictly speaking, though, it is not necessary to the story, and as such could have been left out without any immediate harm to the main story, as in fact it is not mentioned in the first two books, and barely even touched upon after the third. It is, however, a testament to the forethought of the author that, needing a place for a tunnel from Hogwarts to surface, she recognized the necessity of a sweet shop in the village and placed the tunnel terminus there. In fact, having the tunnel lead to Honeyduke's is quite possibly the reason it was initially created; one can see a perceived need on the part of students to get to a sweet shop, and it would be possible for a student, of magical ability on a par with the Marauders or the Twins, to create such a passageway in their hour of perceived need.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Armenian

Welcome to the Armenian Wikibook. This guide will help you learn the basics of the Armenian language!

Table of Contents

 * /Cover/
 * /Alphabet/
 * /Numbers/

Vocabulary

 * /Common Phrases/
 * More common phrases
 * /Animals/
 * /Calendar/
 * /Colors/
 * /Food/
 * /Around the House/
 * /Languages/
 * /Clothes/

Grammar

 * /Prepositions/
 * /Possesives/
 * /Adverbs/
 * /Adjectives/

title: Armenian


text: Armenian/Numbers

title: Armenian/Numbers


text: Armenian/Common Phrases

title: Armenian/Common Phrases


text:
Category:Book:Armenian

ko:분류:아르메니아어

title: Category:Book:Armenian


text:
User:Bigtop/Signature/Alternate

Big  top  ( tk | cb | em | ea )

title: User:Bigtop/Signature/Alternate


text:
Software Engineers Handbook/Life Cycle/Development Methodologies/Traditional Waterfall

When it was first created, the Waterfall Model of Software Development presumed that writing software is a linear process, with clearly defined phases. Many experts have come to realize that this is not true in all cases. However, Waterfall is always useful as a checklist, even if it is not followed in a linear, rigorous fashion. A summary follows.

Phases:
 * 1) Requirements Allocation
 * 2) Preliminary Design (AKA Top Level Design or Architecture)
 * 3) Detailed design
 * 4) Code and Unit Test
 * 5) Integration and Integration test

Scope:
 * 1) Requirements
 * 2) * Capabilities – what the software does
 * 3) * Human interface – all screens and messages defined
 * 4) * All interfaces to external hardware and software identified
 * 5) * Size and timing requirements
 * 6) Preliminary Design
 * 7) * Structure diagram
 * 8) * Functional flow diagrams
 * 9) * All major function prototypes defined and comments for functions written
 * 10) * All major data structures and data bases defined
 * 11) * Header files defined
 * 12) * Sizing and timing estimates (may be deferred to detailed design)
 * 13) Detailed Design
 * 14) * PDL C Program design language (or pseudo code) written. Rule of thumb: 1 line of pseudo code = 3 to 10 lines of “C” code (approximately).
 * 15) * Better sizing and timing estimates
 * 16) Code And Unit Test
 * 17) * Convert PDL to code
 * 18) * Design unit test plan and test code. Test Drivers, test stubs, and any special requirements defined (e.g., special test hardware configurations, test software, lab equipment, etc.).
 * 19) * Better sizing and timing estimates
 * 20) * Metrics, test coverage tool results, etc.
 * 21) Integration and Integration Test
 * 22) * Design integration test plan and test code
 * 23) * Run code on target system and debug
 * 24) * Take sizing and timing measurements and ensure that you are meeting requirements.
 * 25) * Line count - Total lines of text, and lines of code.


text:
Armenian/Calendar

Holidays
* Literally: "winter grandfather" or "grandfather of winter"

title: Armenian/Calendar


text:
Classical Chinese

Welcome to the Wikibook of Classical Chinese (Chinese: 文言). This book teaches the Classical Chinese language, which must be expressed in traditional Chinese.

Knowledge of some basic Chinese characters before starting this course is assumed. You do not have to know a lot of characters, but you should already have an overall understanding of them, such as structure, radicals, and how to use a dictionary. Knowledge of Pinyin, Vernacular Chinese and Japanese could be beneficial, but is not required.

For background knowledge, such as what Classical Chinese is, the history of the language, etc., please read the Wikipedia article on Classical Chinese.

Organization of the book
The Chinese language, especially Classical Chinese, does not have strict grammatical rules, unlike the English language. Although it still does follow some elementary rules, they are not as strict as in English. Here we teach you Classical Chinese by using multiple texts as examples, and explain each of them.

Introduction
Classical Chinese was widely used across East Asia before the 20th century by speakers of different native languages. The role classical Chinese plays in East Asia is something like that of Latin language in Europe. Like Latin in Europe now and centuries ago, Classical Chinese was not a language that a group of people spoke in their daily lives. Instead, it was a formal language that only intellectuals used and was essential for being educated in China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam and some other countries. Today, although these countries have adopted their native languages as their official languages (for China, it is Mandarin, which is one of the modern Sinitic languages) and classical Chinese is no longer used so widely, this language is still taught at high school in China, Taiwan and Japan.

Since classical Chinese was not a language that a group of people actually spoke in their daily lives, it does not have a standard pronunciation and therefore is only a written language. When reading aloud, Chinese and Japanese people usually use the pronunciation system of their own native languages, such as Mandarin, Cantonese, Wu, Hakka, Hokkien, Japanese, etc. (These languages are all sinitic languages except Japanese.) It does not matter if you speak none of these languages.

Classical Chinese is a poetic and sophisticated language, and might be one of the most compact languages in the world. That means, for expressing the same idea, fewer characters (or 'words') are needed than would be the case in modern Chinese or most other languages. (This holds true only for topics (ideas) that were known and could be expressed by ancient Chinese - there are no terms corresponding to 'Quantum Theory' or 'Psychoanalysis' in Classical Chinese, because these topics, as one would expect, were unknown at the time.)

Traditionally, Classical Chinese employs no punctuation at all. However, books published nowadays usually come with punctuation to aid reading. The technique of recognizing each word or sentence from a piece of text is called "句讀". It is one of the most important parts of learning this language. This course will teach you this language in a traditional way, but we will also introduce a limited amount of punctuation, and use spaces to split sentences to help learning.

Traditionally, the Chinese language is read from top to bottom, right to left.

Basic grammar

 * Pronoun
 * Particle
 * Noun
 * Adjective
 * Adverb
 * Verb

Texts

 * Lesson 1 論語
 * Lesson 2 荀子-性悪 1
 * Lesson 3 荀子-性悪 2
 * Lesson 4 老子-道德經 1
 * Lesson 5 老子-道德經 2
 * Lesson 6 喜雨亭記
 * Lesson 7

Древнекитайский язык 文言

title: Classical Chinese


text:
File:AY Answers.jpg

Licensing
/Images

title: File:AY Answers.jpg


text:
Talk:Bartending/Garnishes

What is an alcohol allergy? 66.41.66.213 22:46, 31 July 2006 (UTC)

No self-respecting bartender would put a lemon slice on a gin and tonic. I mean, I'm willing to hear differing opinions before I change it, but as far as I know, a lime is the only standard garnish for a gin and tonic, and nothing else should be used unless it's requested. Catscandal 00:27, 14 August 2007 (UTC)

title: Talk:Bartending/Garnishes


text:
Reconstruction/Mold Treatment/Prep

Suggested Tools:
 * Shop-Vac with hepa filter
 * Push broom
 * Dust pan
 * Hammer
 * Flat bar

title: Reconstruction/Mold Treatment/Prep


text:
Reconstruction/Mold Treatment/Mold Treatment

Mold treatment is the process by which mold is removed and a structure is sanitized. There are a variety of methods that yield acceptable results that vary in required time and financial investment.

Mold treatment steps
Prepare Site:
 * Turn off Electric, if damage, set up generators outside of home.
 * Open windows, doors for airflow.
 * Stay outside, and wait till utility company comes.

Debris Removal:
 * Remove, everything that was wet from flood. Carpet, Bed, Electronics.
 * Place pots and house products in places where mold would not be attracted.

HEPA Vacuum:
 * Remove mold growth on exposed framing using dry bristle brushing
 * Reclean any remaining visible areas of growth
 * Homes where studs are already fairly dry,use only the dry cleaning/HEPA vacuum

Wet Cleaning:
 * Use a damp non-phosphate detergent and water.
 * Starting at the ceiling, with sponge mops and hand sponges untill all is removed
 * If wood does become saturated, allow it to dry completly before restarting
 * Failure to allow surfaces to dry result in water damage (wood rot) or new mold growth.

Sanitizing: will not kill the spores of the mold, and mold will be able to regrow)
 * Hard surfaces that are in the house, should use a disinfectant to kill contaminants.
 * Damp wipe all tubs, bath and kitchen, surfaces use a solution of 1 cup recon to 1 gallon of water. (Please note that bleach

Borate Treatments:
 * With a moisture meter, measure wood surfaces for moisture content
 * moisture content should be less than 20%, for application of a borate solution.
 * Wash or mist the wall with an borate solution using a paint brush or brush roller

Final Drying:
 * Continue to keep windows open, for at least 7days to let the house dry out
 * Try to avoid future spreds of mold or debris to enter by, wearing proper equipment


text:
Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Roofing

Suggested Tools:
 * Hammer
 * Ladder
 * Cats Paw

Suggested PPE:
 * Hardhat
 * Framing gloves
 * Safety goggles

Possible Materials Needed:
 * Shingles
 * Felt/Tar paper
 * Plex Caps
 * Galvanized roofing nails
 * Decking (OSB)
 * Plywood clips

title: Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Roofing


text:
Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Re-wiring

Suggested Tools:
 * Wire cutters/strippers
 * Power drill
 * ? inch bit
 * Flashlight
 * Permanent Marker
 * Hammer

title: Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Re-wiring


text:
Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Painting

Suggested Tools:
 * Paint roller with roller covers
 * Roller pole
 * Paint tray
 * Paint brush
 * Drop-cloth
 * Ladder

title: Reconstruction/Reconstruction/Painting


text:
Reconstruction/Deconstruction/Safety

Prior to beginning work at a site, an evaluation of the structural integrity of the building as well as potential hazards should be made and the dangers should be managed.

Structural Integrity
Signs of poor structural integrity:
 * Walls slanted, tilted or bowed
 * Building tilted
 * Severe cracks in walls or ceilings
 * Evidence of building movement
 * Floors uneven or slanted
 * Structural support beams or pillars moved or missing
 * Excessive floor or ceiling loading such as trees on roof or wet debris piled high
 * Detached or weakened stairways

Note: Buildings that appear to be unsound should not be entered.

Potential Hazards
Upon evaluation, note the following hazards:
 * Mercury
 * Live electrical wire
 * Remaining floodwater
 * Potential for trips and falls
 * Water and debris may hide trip and fall hazards
 * Falls from heights
 * Holes in flooring
 * Slippery surfaces
 * Excessive floor debris
 * Confined spaces/poor ventilation
 * Wildlife
 * Sharp edges
 * Protruding nails
 * Broken glass
 * Bent or broken metal
 * Potential overhead dangers
 * Trapped water
 * Unstable ceiling material
 * Unsecured fixtures
 * Threatening/violent occupants
 * Gases
 * Oxygen deficiency
 * Explosive gases
 * Toxic gases
 * Airborne particulates
 * Dust
 * Asbestos
 * Lead
 * Mold

PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)
Suggested PPE:
 * 3M Half-face respirator with p100 filters
 * Gloves
 * Boots
 * Tyvek suit (optional)
 * Safety goggles (optional)

Proper usage and instruction for PPE:
 * Respirator Wear: Always make sure that the 3M Half-face respirator has a good fit.  One way to test this is while in normal wear put both hands covering the vents and suck in.  This should tighten the mask and create a sucking feeling to your face.  If you don't have this feeling you should resecure the mask on your face.

 * Tyvek Suit Wear: Make sure that the tyvek suit is loose enough that you can move around comfortably without it binding.  But remember you do not want it to be so large that it gets caught on everything you walk past.

Management of health

 * Hydration
 * try to drink twice as much as you think you need
 * Sanitation
 * Rinse your hands then sanitize before touching anything
 * Do not touch your face or food with unsanitized hands
 * Nutrition
 * Even if you are not hungry eat something its hard work you need the energy(no meal skipping)

Safe work practices

 * Always be aware!
 * Know where coworkers are in relation to you
 * Be mindful of surroundings at all time
 * Listen for the sound of a generator if there is a trailer near where you are working the electric could still be on
 * Make sure that the gas meter has pulled and if not make sure that the meter reads zero or that there is a plug and or the pipe is disconnected from the house

 * Tools and Equipment
 * Do not attempt use of equipment without prior experience or guidance from more experienced coworker
 * Use great caution when swinging, hammering, or operating machinery
 * If you are not using a tool i.e.: a hammer or crowbar do not place it on the ground, use window sills or hang them. Keep track off all your tools what you have and how many of them

 * Cleanup
 * Unplug all electrical equipment after use
 * sweep up all dust and debris
 * Have two separate people make a tools sweep through the house one after the other
 * Return all tools to designated storage areas/containers

 * Sanitation
 * Wash(always rinse your hands first)/sanitize hands before eating/handling food
 * Do not rub eyes or touch face while working

 * Hydration
 * Continue hydrating throughout the day
 * Take as many breaks as needed
 * immediately cease work when feeling dizzy or experiencing headaches and notify site manager
 * Drink at least a bottle of water every hour

 * Alleviation
 * Ask your site manager if there is a port-a-pot near your work site

First Aid
If you seek outside medical attention, make sure to report to your supervisor and fill out an incident report

If a person is having pain of any sort, trouble breathing, etc - the acronym OPQRST can be used to ask the appropriate questions: Onset (When did it start?) Provocation (Does anything make it better or worse?) Quality (Can you describe the pain?) Radiation (Does it move or stay in the same place?) Severity (On a scale from 1-10 what is your pain?) Time (How long has it been going on?)

Cuts and Scrapes: If wound is severe: - applying pressure to the wound - elevating the wound If wound is minor:
 * Always wear gloves when helping others
 * Stop the bleeding by:
 * If bleeding does not stop, apply pressure to nearest artery and call 911
 * Watch for signs of shock
 * Clean the wound
 * Apply an antibiotic
 * Cover the wound
 * Change the dressing
 * Get stitches for deep wounds
 * Watch for signs of shock
 * Get a tetanus shot

Punctures:
 * If object is embedded in skin, do NOT remove it
 * Apply gauze around object to control bleeding and prevent movement
 * Watch for signs of shock

Foreign Object in Eye
 * To help someone else:
 * Put on gloves.
 * Seat the person in a well-lighted area.
 * Examine the eye to find the object. Pull the lower lid down and ask the person to look up. Then hold the upper lid while the person looks down.
 * If the object is floating in the tear film on the surface of the eye, try flushing it out. If you're able to remove the object, flush the eye with a saline solution or lukewarm water.
 * Caution
 * Don't try to remove an object that's embedded in the eyeball.
 * Don't rub the eye.
 * Don't try to remove a large object that makes closing the eye difficult.
 * When to call for help:
 * You can't remove the object.
 * The object is embedded in the eyeball.
 * The person with the object in the eye is experiencing abnormal vision.
 * Pain, redness, or the sensation of a foreign body in the eye persists after the object is removed.

Head Trauma
 * Dial 911 or call for emergency medical assistance if any of the following signs are apparent:
 * Severe head or facial bleeding
 * Clear substance appears in ears/nose/mouth
 * Change in level of consciousness for more than a few seconds
 * Black-and-blue discoloration below the eyes or behind the ears (known as Battle Signs)
 * Cessation of breathing
 * Confusion
 * Loss of balance
 * Weakness or an inability to use an arm or leg
 * Unequal pupil size
 * Repeated vomiting
 * Slurred speech
 * If severe head trauma occurs:
 * Keep the person still.
 * Stop any bleeding.
 * Watch for changes in breathing and alertness.

Heat Exhaustion
 * Signs and Symptoms:
 * Feeling faint
 * Nausea
 * Heavy sweating (diaphoresis)
 * Ashen appearance
 * Rapid, weak heartbeat
 * Low blood pressure
 * Cool, moist skin
 * Low-grade fever
 * If you suspect heat exhaustion:
 * Get the person out of the sun and into a shady or air-conditioned location.
 * Lay the person down and elevate the legs and feet slightly.
 * Loosen or remove the person's clothing.
 * Have the person drink cool water, not iced, or a sports drink containing electrolytes.
 * Cool the person by spraying or sponging him or her with cool water and fanning.
 * Monitor the person carefully. Heat exhaustion can quickly become heatstroke. If fever greater than 102 F, fainting, confusion or seizures occur, dial 911 or call for emergency medical assistance.

Sprains
 * Follow the instructions for P.R.I.C.E.
 * 1. Protect the injured limb from further injury by not using the joint.
 * 2. Rest the injured limb.
 * 3. Ice the area.
 * 4. Compress the area with an elastic wrap or bandage.
 * 5. Elevate the injured limb whenever possible to help prevent or limit swelling.
 * Seek medical attention if:
 * You heard a popping sound when your joint was injured, or you can't use the joint.
 * You have a fever, and the area is red and hot, you may have an infection.
 * You have a severe sprain.
 * You aren't improving after the first two or three days.

Unconsciousness: 1. Put on gloves/check the area for possible dangers 2. Call 911 3. Look, listen, and feel for breathing 4. If person is breathing, then move to recovery position (on side) 5. If person in NOT breathing, begin CPR
 * If a person for any reason becomes unconscious, follow these steps:

title: Reconstruction/Deconstruction/Safety


text:
Wikibooks:Collaboration of the Month/September 2006 voting

Voting Rules
The following are the rules and conditions for voting for the Collaboration of the Month:

 * 1) Only registered users with 20 or more edits to their name may vote.
 * 2) You may vote under as many nominations as you wish, however, you may only vote for each book itself once.
 * 3) Sign your vote with a number sign and four tildes, #~, after the most previous vote under the book's nomination. Unsigned votes will be removed.
 * 4) Any nomination which receives 3 or more votes in one month will automatically be renominated the next month if it is not chosen.
 * 5) If you wish to include a short comment for your vote, then you may do so. Make sure that if you leave such a comment, that you are also voting for that page.
 * 6) Do not post objection votes as these will have no effect on the final tally.
 * 7) Voting will end at 00:00 UTC on the first day of each month. In essence, when a new month begins voting ends. Any votes added after this time will be discarded.
 * 8) The nomination with most votes will be chosen as the Collaboration of the Month. In case of a tie, the older Wikibook will be chosen.

Shaving
(renominated with 3 votes for August)

Votes:
 * 1) --Easyas12c 16:13, 6 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 2) Klingoncowboy4 02:03, 25 August 2006 (UTC)

Comments:
 * The book is a guide to a simple everyday task. This makes the book both usefull and editable to many. It has a clear structure which makes appending easy. The book contains already the most basic information regarding the subject, but has been lacking attention for a while. --Easyas12c 20:07, 14 June 2006 (UTC)

William Shakespeare%27s Works
(renominated with 5 votes for August)

Votes:
 * 1) Brandon Johnsonn 12:11, 1 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 2) Whiteknight (talk) (projects) 15:36, 1 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 3) Klingoncowboy4 02:03, 25 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 4) Has great potential, but a lot is missing, both in terms of style and content. A COTM would serve it well. --Swift 08:28, 25 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 5) Master  mind  007 06:56, 30 August 2006 (UTC)

Comments: -Come on! This one came in second place last month! It's growing in plays, information, sonnets, etc... It would really help people in whatever they wanted to do. Who knows? Maybe someday this might become a WikiBook of the Month.... #Brandon Johnsonn 12:11, 1 August 2006 (UTC)

C Sharp Programming
(renominated with 3 votes for August)

Votes:
 * 1) Matt 00:39, 4 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 2) Sblive 17:16, 15 August 2006 (UTC) better choice than "Shaving" and "W. Shakerspear.."
 * 3) Whiteknight 18:40, 15 August 2006 (UTC) I like this book, but I worry that all the COTM books recently have been "tech related". I don't want people to think that all we do around here is computer books.
 * 4) Klingoncowboy4 02:03, 25 August 2006 (UTC)

Comments:


text:
Wikibooks:Book of the month/September 2006 voting

The voting for the Book of the month for September 2006 is open from August 1st, 2006, and will close on September 1st, 2006, 00:00 UTC. The book of the month will be featured on the main page of Wikibooks.

'''Closed. Any votes added will be reverted.'''

Rhetoric and Composition
(renominated with 3 votes for August)

Votes:
 * 1) --Whiteknight (talk) (projects) 18:29, 23 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 2) Klingoncowboy4 02:02, 25 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 3) Exemplary book in terms of structure and style. If the contents are half as good (no I didn't read much), it is well deserving of BOTM status. --Swift 08:22, 25 August 2006 (UTC)

False Friends of the Slavist
Votes
 * 1) within focus 01:29, 25 August 2006 (UTC) - Seems like a pretty nice book, and needs a feature. -within focus  01:29, 25 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 2) Klingoncowboy4 02:02, 25 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 3) Sblive 22:45, 30 August 2006 (UTC)

Cognitive Psychology and Cognitive Neuroscience
Votes
 * 1) Aschoeke ( talk ) 00:26, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 2) Whiteknight 00:31, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 3) FlyingGerman 03:04, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 4) Sspoede 09:12, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 5) maebert 08:47, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 6) Themsted 09:07, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 7) Asarwary 11:31, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 8) jgerhard 11:32, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 9) Annschro 09:49, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 10) Hnasir 09:51, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 11) Apape 10:46, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 12) Lbartels 11:30, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 13) Hknepper 12:39, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 14) Swaterka 13:11, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 15) Philipp Benner 13:37, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 16) Smieskes 19:19, 29 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 17) Master  mind  007 06:54, 30 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 18) Ekrueger 14:49, 30 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 19) Npraceju 20:27, 30 August 2006 (UTC)
 * 20) Itiaden 23:49, 31 August 2006 (UTC)


text:
Wikijunior talk:How Things Work/Light Bulb

Lacerations is a big word. Does that have to be in there? -- Daves_TA

invention
Attributing the invention of the light bulb to Edison, whilst generally accepted, might not be historically correct? Also I wonder if a distinction should be made between ordinary light bulbs and the energy saving alternatives?
 * Fixed the invention section.
 * The scope of this item needs to be clarified. Is it strictly about the incandescent light bulb, or about electrical lighting in general. So far it seems to be the former, but the existence of other types of lightbulbs should at least be acknowledged. If the latter, then it should probably contain not just compact fluorescent lights, but also LEDs, halogen lights, etc. Cmadler 20:22, 8 January 2007 (UTC)

City at night
Minor point, but all the office lights in the image of London at night would be fluorescent tubes (and some compact fluoro's) not incandescent bulbs. Offices have used fluorescent lighting for some time now, due to their greater energy efficiency. Webaware talk 03:22, 15 August 2007 (UTC)

 * True. The flood lights along the waterfront and on the outside of the building are probably incandescent though as well as the street lamps and the exterior lights on the ship. There's some neon in there as well. -- xixtas talk 03:57, 16 August 2007 (UTC)

 * Well, actually the street lamps would be gas-discharge (HID, sodium, or mercury vapour) - see Lamp (electrical component). Some of the flood lighting may also be gas-discharge. Webaware talk 06:11, 16 August 2007 (UTC)

 * You got me there. -- xixtas talk 05:27, 17 August 2007 (UTC)


text:
Arimaa/Overview

(pronounced uh-ree-muh) is a two-player board game invented by Omar Syed, a computer engineer trained in artificial intelligence. After was defeated by the chess computer, Syed wanted to create a game that could be played on a chessboard using chess pieces, but which could not be won by sheer calculating power. Syed thought that a large was the key, but soon realized that this would not automatically favor humans, who would need to anticipate a position a few turns ahead. While teaching his young son a simplified version of chess, Syed began to see a solution; if movement was limited but each turn allowed for multiple steps, a game could be both high-branching and playable. After much experimenting, Syed came up with a game which, like chess, used a 1-1-2-2-2-8 distribution of pieces. Conceptually, Syed's new game was much simpler than chess, yet the branching factor dwarfed that of chess. For a human or machine, imprecise planning would be key. The name Arimaa is derived from that of Syed's son Aamir.

Arimaa's first computer test was the engine, which was designed to competently play any game it was given the rules to. As Syed expected, Zillions was an easy opponent. On November 20, 2002, Syed published the rules for Arimaa and announced a $10,000 prize, available annually until 2020, for the first bot to defeat a top human player in a "Challenge" match. David Wu's bot Sharp claimed the prize in 2015.

United States Patent number 6,981,700 for Arimaa was filed on the 3rd of October 2003, and granted on the 3rd of January 2006. Omar Syed also holds a trademark on the name "Arimaa". Syed has released an experimental license called "The Arimaa Public License", with the declared intent to "make Arimaa as much of a public domain game as possible while still protecting its commercial usage". Items covered by the license are the patent and the trademark.

Arimaa can be played online at the arimaa.com gameroom. Face-to-face, it might be played using a chess set, since each Arimaa piece corresponds to a chess piece. In 2009, Z-Man Games began producing a commercial Arimaa set. Only one face-to-face tournament has taken place, but various events have been hosted online:

 * The World Championship is an annual tournament for human players. This tournament has taken various formats, and has lasted as many as fourteen rounds. Jean Daligault was the world champion six times from 2007 to 2014, and then Mathew Brown was champion six times from 2015 to 2023.
 * From 2004 to 2015, the Computer Championship matched the top Arimaa bots in an elimination tournament. David Fotland's program Bomb placed first each year from 2004 to 2008, even though Fotland didn't update it after 2005. Stronger bots emerged in 2009; from then on, there was no one dominant bot until David Wu's Sharp went undefeated in 2015.
 * The Arimaa Challenge took place following the Computer Championship. At first, the winning bot played an eight-game match against a lone human defender. The format evolved: from 2007 onward, the top two bots were available to play during a "screening" period. A human could play two games against each of these two bots; the bot with the better record in those matches advanced to the Challenge, where it faced three ultimate human defenders, who were selected beforehand and hadn't played in the screening. If this bot could win best-of-three matches against all three human defenders, its developer would win the $10,000 prize. Humans dominated until 2015, when Sharp defeated Jean Daligault, Lev Ruchka, and Mathew Brown.

After DeepMind's mastered Go, Chess, and Shogi simply by playing itself, neural networking Arimaa bots were developed. Rusty_Zero is currently the top bot, with an Elo rating near 3000.

title: Arimaa/Overview


text:
Arimaa/Playing The Game

Rules
Like classic chess, Arimaa is played on an 8×8 grid. The two players, Gold and Silver, control sixteen pieces each (listed in descending order of strength):

If Arimaa is played using a chess set, the pieces may be represented by the king, queen, knights, bishops, rooks, and pawns respectively. Unlike their chess counterparts, however, Arimaa pieces move only in cardinal directions, and step one square at a time. The relative strength of each piece lies in its power to push, pull, or immobilize weaker enemy pieces. There are four trap squares on which a piece can potentially be lost — these are the squares designated as c3, f3, c6, and f6 when classified by rank and file.

The game begins with an empty board. Gold arranges his pieces on the first and second ranks, in whatever configuration he chooses — Arimaa pieces do not have fixed starting positions. Silver then arranges her pieces on the seventh and eighth ranks.

A piece steps from square to square. Rabbits can step left, right, or forward. All other pieces can step left, right, forward, or backward. Diagonals have no place in the rules of Arimaa.

A turn (or move) consists of one to four steps. The steps in a turn can be used on four different pieces, all on the same piece, or any combination. After the setup phase is completed, the players alternate turns with Gold going first.

A player may not pass a turn, and must always make a net change to the position. Thus one cannot, for example, move the same piece forward and backward and leave it at that. Furthermore, a turn may not result in a position identical to one which the same player has created twice before.

The game's main objective is to get a rabbit across the board; the opponent's home rank is the goal line.

Freezing
The second diagram portrays a position which could occur later in a game.

A piece which is adjacent to a stronger enemy piece is frozen, unless it is also adjacent to a friendly piece. While frozen, a piece may not be moved by its owner. The silver elephant on d5 freezes the gold horse on d6. The frozen gold horse itself freezes a silver rabbit on e6, but the rabbit would be unfrozen if the f7 dog stepped west. The dogs on a6 and b6 do not freeze each other, as they are of equal strength.

Pushing and pulling
A piece can pull or push a weaker enemy piece which is next to it, provided an empty square allows for the necessary movement.

In a pull, a piece steps onto an adjacent empty square and drags the weaker enemy piece onto the square from which it came. The silver elephant on d5 could step east, west, or south and pull the gold horse from d6 to d5. In a push, the weaker enemy piece is moved onto an adjacent empty square, and the piece which pushed it moves onto the square it had occupied. The gold elephant on d3 could push the silver rabbit on d2 to e2 and then occupy d2. A push or pull uses two steps, since two pieces are moved.

Note that the rabbit on d2 can't be pushed to d1, c2, or d3, because those squares are already occupied. Remember also that a piece can only push or pull a weaker enemy piece — for example, a dog may dislodge an enemy rabbit or cat, but not a dog, horse, camel, or elephant. Although a rabbit may not retreat toward its home row, it can nonetheless be pushed or pulled in that direction. For example, the gold rabbit on g3 could not itself step back to g2, but the silver horse could take a step right and then pull it down.

A piece may not push and pull simultaneously — for example, the gold elephant could not dislodge the d2 and c3 rabbits in one move. No push can occur if there is no empty square for a piece to be pushed onto, and no pull can occur if there is no empty square for the pulling piece to step onto. Strong pieces can sometimes be limited by teams of weaker pieces.

A frozen piece can be pushed or pulled by the opponent. A non-frozen piece can also be pushed or pulled — an adjacent friendly piece does not protect against this. For example, the d1 cat does not protect the c1 cat from being pushed to b1 or pulled to c2. Whether a piece is frozen is unrelated to whether it can be dislodged.

Captures
In Arimaa, a capture can only occur on a trap square. A piece which enters a trap square is removed from the board unless there is a friendly piece next to that trap. The silver elephant could capture the gold horse by pushing it from d6 to c6. The silver rabbit on c3 is still alive because of the c4 rabbit and c2 horse — the c3 trap has two silver defenders. If all friendly defenders left or got dislodged, a piece still on a trap square would be lost.

A piece may voluntarily step into a trap square, even if it is lost thereby. The second step of a pulling maneuver may be completed, even if the pulling piece is lost on the first step. For example, Silver to move could step the silver horse from f2 to f3, losing the horse, and still pull the gold rabbit from f1 to f2 as part of the horse's move.

End of the game
An Arimaa game cannot end in a draw. There are three different ways to win:
 * Goal: Gold wins by moving a gold rabbit onto the eighth rank, and Silver wins by moving a silver rabbit onto the first rank. As the principal object of the game, goal is normally how a game is won.
 * Elimination: One can win by capturing the last remaining enemy rabbit.
 * Immobilization: One can win by creating a position that leaves the opponent with no legal move. This could involve a large blockade.

If one side's move directly brings about a winning condition for the opponent, the opponent wins, except under these rare circumstances:
 * If a move brings about goal or elimination for both sides, the one who made the move wins.
 * Goal or elimination wins the game even if one's pieces are technically left immobilized. Immobilization is only checked at the start of a turn.
 * If a rabbit is dislodged onto its goal line and then dislodged off within the same turn, as occurred on 83g of, the game continues.

Setting up
The finer points of initial piece placement will be explored later, but a beginner just needs a flexible setup that denies the opponent an easy attack plan. Strong pieces start in the front row, as they must take the lead in clearing a path for a rabbit to goal.

In the diagram at right, Gold has chosen a classic symmetric setup. The elephant is placed in the center so that it can quickly reach any part of the board. The camel is placed in the center as well, so that it could defend either home trap and potentially punish an enemy horse advance on either wing. Rabbits are kept out of the center; since rabbits can't retreat, a rabbit pulled up in the middle might block its own friendly pieces. For the same reason, rabbits are not placed directly behind the traps.

The gold horses will quickly step forward, to assert control of Gold's home traps; one horse or the other might then advance in hopes of creating a threat. Beginning back and center, the gold dogs may soon move up. The gold cats might stay in place for a while, guarding the traps from behind and thus protecting other gold pieces from a quick capture at home.

Since Silver goes second, she can take Gold's setup into account when deciding on her own. Note that the silver elephant is not placed directly opposite the gold elephant. If both elephants started on the same file, Gold could advance his elephant four squares and temporarily fence in the silver elephant.

Silver has also used a symmetric setup, only switching the dogs and cats. Gold has chosen "cats behind the traps, dogs back", while Silver has used "dogs behind the traps, cats back". The pieces guarding their home traps from behind are potentially vulnerable to capture themselves — Silver stands to lose a dog in the opening if she's not careful. As long as another silver piece is next to the trap, however, a dog behind that trap strengthens Silver's control of it, since dogs cannot be pushed aside by enemy dogs. A dog might later advance through the trap and be replaced by a cat or rabbit.

A player who uses a non-symmetric setup may intend to move quickly on one wing.

Notation
One can play Arimaa without learning the standard notation for moves. For brevity's sake, however, examples will sometimes use the notation rather than spell out each individual step.

Each step is notated as ⟨piece⟩⟨initial square⟩⟨direction⟩.  ⟨piece⟩ is a single letter: Upper case is used for the gold pieces, and lower case for the silver pieces. ⟨initial square⟩ is a two-character square name as in chess notation (e.g. e4). ⟨direction⟩ can be n, e, s, or w for north, east, south, or west. This is always from Gold's point of view. In addition, the special direction x indicates that the piece is captured.
 * E for Elephant
 * M for caMel
 * H for Horse
 * D for Dog
 * C for Cat
 * R for Rabbit

Suppose Gold is to move in the diagram. The false protection capture of the silver elephant is described as Mb4e db3n cd3e ec3x Hd4s. The northeastern goal is Eg7s rh7w Rh6n Rh7n, or equivalently, Eg7s rh7w Rh6nn. Consecutive steps by the same piece may be condensed, with only the initial square given.

When an actual game is cited, a turn is referred to by a number and "g" (gold) or "s" (silver). 1g and 1s are the setups, 2g is Gold's first regular turn, and 2s is Silver's first regular turn.

While this notation may seem verbose, each step must be accounted for with no ambiguity.

title: Arimaa/Playing The Game


text:
Statics/Geometric Properties of Lines and Areas

=Centroids Of Common Shapes Of Areas And Lines=

Triangular Area
$$Area = \frac {b*h}{2} $$

Quarter Circular Area
$$Area = \frac { \pi\ r^2}{4} $$

Semicircular Area
$$Area = \frac { \pi\ r^2}{2} $$

Semiparabolic Area
$$Area = \frac {2ah}{3} $$

Parabolic Area
$$Area = \frac {4ah}{3} $$

Parabolic Spandrel
$$Area = \frac {ah}{3} $$

Circular Sector
$$Area = \alpha\ r^2 $$

Quarter Circular Arc
$$Area = \frac { \pi\ }{2} $$

Semi Circular Arc
$$Area = \pi\ r $$

Arc Of Circle
$$Area = 2 \alpha\ r $$

=Area Moments Of Inertia of Common Geometric Shapes=

Rectangle
$$I_{x} = \frac {1}{3}b h^3 $$

$$I_{y} = \frac {1}{3}h b^3 $$

$$I_{x'} = \frac {1}{12}b h^3 $$

$$I_{y'} = \frac {1}{12}h b^3 $$

Right Triangular Area
$$I_{x} = \frac {1}{12}b h^3 $$

$$I_{y} = \frac {1}{4}h b^3 $$

$$I_{x'} = \frac {1}{36}b h^3 $$

$$I_{y'} = \frac {1}{36}h b^3 $$

Triangular Area
$$I_{x} = \frac {1}{12} bh^3$$

$$I_{x'} = \frac {1}{36} bh^3$$

Circular Area
$$J_C = \frac { \pi\ r^4}{2} $$

$$I_{x'} = I_{y'} = \frac { \pi\ r^4}{4} $$

Hollow circle
This is used for hollow cylinders where there is solid material between the outer and inner radius, but no material between the inner radius and the center, like a pipe's cross-section.

$$I = \frac { \pi\ (r_o^4 - r_i^4)} {4} $$

$$ r_o $$ is the outer radius $$ r_i $$ is the inner radius

Semicircular Area
$$I_x = I_y = \frac {1}{8} \pi\ r^4$$

$$I_{x'} = (\frac \pi{8}-\frac {8}{9\pi})r^4 $$

$$I_{y'} = \frac {1}{8} \pi\ r^4$$

Quarter Circle
$$ I_{x} = I_{y} = \frac {1}{16} \pi\ r^4 $$

$$ I_{x'} = I_{y'} = (\frac \pi{16} - \frac {4}{9\pi}) r^4 $$

=further reading=

Statics/Geometric_Properties_of_Solids


text:
Statics/Geometric Properties of Solids

=Mass Moments Of Inertia Of Common Geometric Shapes=

Slender Rod
$$ I_x = 0 $$

$$ I_y = I_z = \frac {1}{12} ml^2 $$

Thin Quarter-Circular Rod
$$ I_x = I_z = mr^2 (\frac {1}{2} - \frac {4}{\pi^2}) $$

$$ I_y = mr^2 (1 - \frac {8}{\pi^2}) $$

Thin Ring
$$ I_x = I_y = \frac {1}{2}mr^2 $$

$$ I_z = mr^2 $$

Sphere
$$ I_x = I_y = I_z = \frac {2}{5} mr^2 $$

Hemisphere
$$ I_x = I_y = \frac {83}{320} mr^2 $$

$$ I_z = \frac {2}{5} mr^2 $$

Thin Circular Disk
$$ I_x = I_y = \frac {1}{4} mr^2 $$

$$ I_z = \frac {1}{2} mr^2 $$

Rectangular Prism
$$ I_x = \frac {1}{12} m \left ( b^2 + c^2 \right ) $$

$$ I_y = \frac {1}{12} m \left ( a^2 + c^2 \right ) $$

$$ I_z = \frac {1}{12} m \left ( a^2 + b^2 \right ) $$

Right Circular Cylinder
$$ I_x = I_y = \frac {1}{12} m( 3r^2 + h^2) $$

$$ I_z = \frac {1}{2} mr^2 $$

Right Half Cylinder
$$ I_x = \frac {1}{12} mh^2 + mr^2( \frac {1}{4} - \frac {16}{9\pi^2}) $$

$$ I_y = \frac {1}{12} mh^2 + \frac {1}{4}mr^2 $$

$$ I_z = mr^2( \frac {1}{2} - \frac {16}{9\pi^2}) $$

Thin Rectangular Plate
$$ I_x = \frac {1}{12} mb^2 $$

$$ I_y = \frac {1}{12} ma^2 $$

$$ I_z = \frac {1}{12} m(a^2 + b^2) $$

Right Circular Cone
$$ I_x = I_y = \frac {3}{80} m ({4}{r^2} + h^2) $$

$$ I_z = \frac {3}{10} mr^2 $$

Right Tetrahedron
$$ I_x = \frac {3}{80} m (b^2+c^2) $$

$$ I_y = \frac {3}{80} m (a^2+c^2) $$

$$ I_z = \frac {3}{80} m (a^2+b^2) $$

title: Statics/Geometric Properties of Solids


text: Statics/References

title: Statics/References


text:
Jeep Liberty/Electrical/PCI Bus

The "PCI" bus is the central communications bus in the Jeep Liberty. The BCM, PCM, TCM, WCM, EVIC, dash cluster, and audio equipment use it to communicate with each other. The bus is a superset of OBD-II and uses the J1850 VPW communication format. It travels throughout the entire car and the OBD-II port taps directly into it. The ELM327 chip from Elm Electronics should allow reading and writing to the bus via a serial port. One of the many available OBD-II interface tools could also be used. The Liberty won't switch to the newer and faster CAN bus until it is federally required in 2008.

title: Jeep Liberty/Electrical/PCI Bus


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Arts and Crafts/Airplane Modeling

1. Build and successfully fly an airplane from a kit made of balsa wood and tissue paper, and rubber band or gas powered.
Many kits are available for building that will meet this requirement.

SIG Manufacturing is a major supplier.
To help you navigate, SIG uses the following shorthand on their website.

F/F = Free flight  C/L = Control line  R/C = Remote control

BIY = Build it yourself ARF = Almost ready to fly  RTF = Ready to Fly

Some possible models from SIG include:

AMA Cub
This model has been also called "Delta Dart" and has been sold by SIG for beginner modelers since 1968. Designed by Frank Ehling, these can be built by even younger modelers with little or no experience. Rubber band powered, the wing covering paper is pre-printed with markings to show where to glue the wood pieces. Kit includes everything you need except some glue. Likely the most cost effective model for club purposes as well.

Ask your local hobby shop if they stock this model, or order from SIG.

Thermal Dart
Basically a larger version of the AMA Cub.

As built by a Pathfinder.

SIG Parasol
Easy to build like a cub, this model looks a little more like a scale airplane.

SIG Cub
This model is more challenging to build than the AMA Cub, or Thermal Dart. The wing includes airfoil shape, and dihedral angle for stability. This model would be better suited for either older modelers or modelers with some experience already. A nice rubber band powered free flight model.

Guillow's is also a major supplier.
Some possible models from Guillow's include:

Cadet
A simple to build rubber band powered model.

Cloud Buster
Similar to the SIG Cub. This model has airfoil wing, and dihedral angle as well.

Fly Boy
This model involves more skill and work with its built up (3D) fuselage. Still a fairly simple model, this kit will involve a larger time commitment, and a bit more skill. An experienced modeler to help instruct would be an asset for this kit.

SIG Manufacturing is a major supplier.
See the shorthand help above to navigate their site.

A possible glider model from SIG is:

Flip
This model is a nice free flight glider kit. It does not technically meet the needs of this requirement since the plans call for the wing to be in a fixed location. This does not allow the modeler to observe its flying characteristics as related to variable positions of the wings. With a bit of spare balsa and some simple modifications, this glider can be built with movable wings.

Flip with modified wing mount.

Guillow's is also a major supplier.
Almost all of their toy balsa gliders would qualify for this requirement since they all have the ability to adjust the wings forward or back. Some possible models include:

Eagle
Very basic balsa glider.

Jetfire
Similar to Eagle, with a wider wingspan and dihedral angle.

Do It Yourself "Penny Glider" plans.
Due to an ordering mix-up with our glider kit supplier, our club was forced to get creative to meet the glider requirement in this Airplane Modeling honor. The end result was that I designed a glider that could be made from stock pieces of balsa. The glider flew well for the students who made them, and the plans made for very cost effective kits. I found the most efficient way to use balsa sheets is to make 12 glider kits. I am publishing the plans here in the hope that other youth groups can make good use of them.

Penny Glider as built by a Pathfinder.

Stock pieces required.
One set of the following pieces will create twelve glider kits.

 * (3) 3" X 36" X 1/16" sheet
 * (4) 1/8" X 3/8" X 36"
 * (1) 1/8" X 1/8" X 36"

Other required supplies.
Wood glue / Hobby knifes

Ruler (Metal is best)

Water based sanding sealer - (I used Varathane Crystal Clear Waterborne thinned 50% with water)

150 grit sandpaper

Pencil / Hobby paint brushes

12 Pennies

Hot glue gun and glue

One copy of plan page printed for each student.

Make the kits in advance
Cut the pieces from the stock to the sizes shown in the plan. Use a hobby knife and steel ruler.

Fuselage - Cut the ⅛” x ⅜” stock into 12” long sections to make 12 fuselages.

Wings - Cut 6 pieces 11” x 1½” from 2 of the 1/16” sheets to make 12 wings.

Wing Mounts - Cut ⅛” x ⅛” stock into 12 - 2½ ” sections.

Wing Mounts – Cut 24 - ¼” x 2½ ” parts for wing mounts from 1/16" sheet balsa.

Horizontal Stabilizer – Cut 12 - 3½” x 3/4” horizontal stabilizers from 1/16" sheet balsa.

Vertical Stabilizer - Cut 12 - 1½” x 1” vertical stabilizers from 1/16" sheet balsa.

(ensure grain runs the long direction on all 1/16" sheet balsa pieces)

Optionally cut the tapered notches in the fuselage for the horizontal stabilizer, or leave this step for the students depending on level of students ability with hobby knifes.

Each kit will contain one wing, one fuselage, one horizontal stabilizer, one vertical stabilizer, and the wing mounting pieces. One single kit is pictured below.

Have the students follow steps 1 through 8 to build the kits.
Instructions:

 * 1) Cut out all pieces.
 * 2) Seal and sand all pieces
 * 3) Assemble wing mount
 * 4) Glue wing to mount
 * 5) Mount stabilizers
 * 6) Use elastics to mount wing on fuselage
 * 7) Add penny to nose for weight, (use hot glue) and adjust wings front to back for best flight.
 * 8) Add cardstock ailerons, rudder, and elevators if wanted.

The following pictures are provided for reference.

Wing and wing mount:

Stabilizers glued to fuselage:

Wing mounting with elastic bands:

Finished Glider:

3. Make and successfully fly two different styles of paper airplanes using sheets of paper between eight (20.3 cm) and fourteen (35.6 cm) inches in width and length.
Paper Plane with airfoil wings is a fun paper airplane to build. It requires more than simply folding a piece of paper up, and can be used to teach the concept of Bernoulli's Principle.

Boy Scout Paper Plane plans include many creative and fun paper airplane plans.

www.funpaperairplanes.com

www.10paperairplanes.com

4. Define, locate, and explain the usage of the following basic items

 * Fuselage
 * Wing
 * Aileron
 * Rudder
 * Horizontal stabilizer
 * Strut
 * Cockpit
 * Engine
 * Landing Gear
 * Propeller

 * Fuselage: The elongated body or frame of an airplane, any kind of frame or body. The central body of an airplane that is designed to accommodate the crew and passengers (or cargo).

 * Wing: Any surface used primarily for supporting an airplane inflight by forward motion.

 * Aileron: Ailerons are movable control surfaces that are present on the trailing edge of both the right and left wings of a plane. Each surface moves in opposite directions enabling a plane to roll right or left. For a plane to roll to the left, the left wing aileron moves upwards while the aileron on the right wing moves downwards.

 * Rudder: This is the term used to describe the part of the tail that moves back and forth. This movement causes the tail of a plane to move which then turns the plane.

 * Horizontal stabilizer: The horizontal "mini wing" at the tail section of the airplane. The elevator is attached to the horizontal stabilizer with hinges.

 * Strut: A diagonal brace going from the fuselage to the bottom of the wing consisting of a bar or rod used to support the wing on the airplane.

 * Cockpit: Compartment where the pilot sits while flying the aircraft.

 * Engine: The source of power to turn the propeller or turbines and generate thrust. Can be an internal combustion engine, jet engine, or in the case of an airplane model a rubber band engine.

 * Landing gear: An undercarriage that supports the weight of the plane when it is on the ground.

 * Propeller: The mechanical device attached to the engine that rotates to push against air and create thrust.

 * Dihedral: Dihedral is where the right and left wing tips are higher than the fuselage. More dihedral generally means that a plane will be more stable in the air, but will be more difficult to turn. Most planes require a bit of dihedral to fly well.

 * Elevator: Elevator is the term used to describe a plane's horizontal control surface on the tail. This surface enables a plane to pitch upwards or downwards. When an elevator surface moves upwards, the tail moves downwards (the nose of the plane then points up) and vice-versa. Without an elevator, it is hard to control the altitude of a plane as you can't control the rise and fall of the nose of the plane.

 * Thrust: The mechanical force generated by the engine to move the airplane through the air.

 * Vertical stabilizer: The vertical fin which is part of the tail assembly of the airplane. The rudder is attached to the vertical stabilizer with a hinge.

 * V-Tail: V-Tail aircraft are planes that have only 2 stabilization surfaces (in the shape of a V) instead of a conventional horizontal and vertical stabilizers. In a V-Tail aircraft, the 2 control surfaces of the V-Tail work together to give elevator and rudder responses.

Illustration of Model airplane parts.

| /Completed Honors /Arts and Crafts


text:
Talk:Puzzles/Logic puzzles/Scales and Weights/Solution 2

It doesn't work if you're weighing beans.

Good thing we are not weighing beans then. I removed "81 kg is impossible because we can't distinguish between 81 kg, 82kg, or any higher value." because we only need to distinguish weighs between 1 and N kg, and since N=81, there can't be a 82kg weigh. --194.190.194.74 (talk) 08:24, 28 June 2010 (UTC)


text:
Talk:French/Lessons/Time

Error
5 Il est [nombre] heure(s). It is [number] hours. eelay [nombre]

It should be numéro and not nombre in the above line —Preceding unsigned comment added by 71.156.36.148 (discuss • contribs) 07:12, 1 August 2006

I can't confirm this. From what I can tell, nombre indicates a specific quantity (i.e. how many), while numéro is simply a number that doesn't relate to a quantity as such (e.g. «numéro de téléphone»). --Sigma 7 (talk) 16:10, 17 January 2009 (UTC)

Early for conditional tense
It seems rather soon in the book to be using aurait, organiserais & serais - which are all in the conditionnel tense. Recent Runes (talk) 19:49, 23 July 2010 (UTC)

am happy
this site have been of great help....i started my french class last week and with the help here i have performing great. but pls u need help we guys who can pronounce perfectly the audios because there are some words without the audi.....s'il te plait

title: Talk:French/Lessons/Time


text:
Muggles' Guide to Harry Potter/Magic/Fidelius

Overview
The Fidelius charm is "an immensely complex spell" that conceals a secret within a living soul -- the "secret-keeper". It is coined from the Latin 'fides' -- faith. It is first described in detail in Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, and is also mentioned in Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix and Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.

Extended Description
The Fidelius charm is a very powerful protection for information; having locked the secret into a soul, even direct inspection of the secret will not, apparently, reveal it. Professor Flitwick, in the description of the spell, says "As long as the Secret-Keeper refused to speak, You-Know-Who could search the village where Lily and James were staying for years and never find them, not even if he had his nose pressed against their sitting-room window!" (Lily and James Potter had gone into hiding at that point because they had information that Voldemort was specifically seeking them.) The conclusion reached at that time, correctly, is that the Secret-Keeper must have voluntarily divulged the secret to Voldemort.

The location of the headquarters of the Order of the Phoenix, also, is protected by the Fidelius charm; in this case, the Secret-Keeper is Albus Dumbledore. At this stage in the story, Dumbledore is not willing to talk directly to Harry, but he is able to convey the information about where the Order is located to Harry, by means of writing. Having shown him the note, Alastor Moody cautions him about reading it out loud or repeating it; one has to wonder why, because the Fidelius spell blocks anyone but the Secret-Keeper from revealing the secret... so presumably Harry would have been somehow blocked from speaking the contents of that note.

Questions

 * 1) What would have happened had Harry tried to read the note about the location of the Order out loud?
 * 2) What would happen if a secret keeper died before revealing the secret to anyone?

Greater Picture
J. K. Rowling had implied that when a Secret-Keeper dies, the ability to divulge the secret dies with him. The Fidelius Charm prevents anyone except the secret-keeper from revealing the secret; the people to whom he releases the secret are privy to it, of course, but cannot tell anyone else. At the death of a Secret-Keeper, then, everyone who knew the secret would retain that knowledge; but, the implication was, as before they could not pass it on, so the secret would go no further.

If that were the case, it could prove difficult to move the headquarters of the Order after Dumbledore's death. The secret that Dumbledore is protecting is the location of the headquarters of the Order of the Phoenix; if the ability to pass on that secret died with the secret holder, it would not be possible to tell anyone, even holders of the current secret, where the new Headquarters were. If the Order were to disband, presumably that would make the secret moot and break the charm, but that is not likely to happen until some time after Voldemort's final defeat.

Additionally, it would cause some problems for Harry in book 7. It is his stated intention to visit his parents' house in the village of Godric's Hollow; but as the secret-keeper, Peter Pettigrew, is apparently still keeping the secret, it may prove difficult for him to find it. In fact, it did not seem to be too difficult for Rubeus Hagrid to find it immediately after the incident; while Sirius Black was also present at the time, he almost certainly had been told the secret by Pettigrew earlier.

There is a great deal of discussion on various fan sites about the "missing day"; Voldemort had been dead for a full day before Hagrid appeared at Privet Drive with Harry. It is believed by many fans that the occurrences during that day would be important, possibly even pivotal, to events in the seventh book. It is entirely possible that, if the Fidelius spell was still active, Hagrid would have been unable to find the place until one of the parties to the secret was there. We can safely assume that Sirius, as one of the Marauders, would have been aware of the Potters' location; in fact, he does say, in Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban, that he had seen "the bodies and the destruction" of the house, so he must have known the secret, either before the Fidelius charm was performed, or by Peter informing him of it afterwards. If the Fidelius charm was still active, Hagrid would have been unable to enter the remains of the house to recover Harry until Sirius appeared on the scene; and it would have been Sirius who actually removed Harry from the wreckage and passed him to Hagrid to carry back to Little Whinging. Against this, of course, is Hagrid's statement that he carried little Harry out of the wrecked house himself, which would strongly imply either that Hagrid had been informed of the secret, or that the Fidelius charm's effect ended with the deaths of the Potters.

It turns out, however, that the author's statement is at the very least misleading. Mad-Eye Moody explains that with the death of Dumbledore, everyone who had been party to the secret before is now a Secret-Keeper for the secret themselves. As a result, when Hermione accidentally Side-Along-Apparates Yaxley (a Death Eater) to the front step of Grimmauld Place, she assumes that she has revealed the secret to him.

The Fidelius spell is one of several that seem to have their effects altered at the whim of the author in the course of the story arc. Firstly, of course, there is the question of what happens to the secret when the Secret-Keeper dies; what was written on the author's web site, and what actually happened, were subtly different, as mentioned above. It seems the author changed the behavior, to make all secret-holders become secret keepers, as it seemed necessary in order to force Harry, Ron, and Hermione out of Grimmauld Place. Further, and again in the final book, Harry, with assistance from Dobby, escapes to Shell Cottage, a safe house that is protected, we are told, by the Fidelius charm. Yet Harry, despite not having been told its location by Bill Weasley, the secret-keeper, is able to see the cottage immediately upon arriving. Granted, we are told that Dobby is able to take people to Shell Cottage earlier, though it is unlikely he would have been granted access to that secret by Bill Weasley; it is possible that Dobby's House-elf magic would give Dobby the ability to bypass the Fidelius charm, but that would not extend to Harry, Hermione, Mr. Ollivander, Luna Lovegood, or Dean Thomas, all of whom accompany Harry and Ron to Shell Cottage on that occasion, and none of whom have had occasion to be let into the secret by Bill Weasley.


text:
Physics with Calculus/Introduction/For Geologists

Geophysics is useful for finding out what underground material is composed of and for finding hidden ore deposits.


text:
Asymptote/Command/plain/Relative

side Relative(explicit pair align);
side Leftside= Relative(W); side Center=Relative((0,0)) side RightSide=Relative(E);

position Relative(real position);
The position Relative(real) specifies a location relative to the total arclength of the path. These convenient abbreviations are predefined: position BeginPoint=Relative(0); position MidPoint=Relative(0.5); position EndPoint=Relative(1);

title: Asymptote/Command/plain/Relative


text:
Cookbook talk:Onigiri

I found the onigiri sold in Lawson's and Family Mart to be pretty damn good, altho perhaps a little pricey. Still, a great value, tasty, filling, and oishi

I removed the line '(I prefer it soggy, actually)' as it doesn't add anything to the recipe or article.

It would be great if the article would have a difficulty rating

I'm going to make this in a bit. I've had to cross reference a bunch of different recipes. If what I had works, I'll add some information to this Article. (In addition to a Difficulty rating) --71.36.17.26 18:14, 29 April 2007 (UTC)

Please to be add more fillings thx. It would be great if this dish got into the American/European mainstream. Some American-style fillings could be good, especially for people who don't like fish, but I'm drawing a blank right now. Also, the Wikipedia article describes grilled / fried onigiri, which sound tasty. Anyone know how to make this?

This article is a little un-cookbook... Hasn't anyone heard of the typical recipe format? ingredients, preparation instructions, yeild...

title: Cookbook talk:Onigiri


text: Engineering Tables/Laplace Transform Table 2


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Template:Col-break

 * align="" valign="" |

title: Template:Col-break


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Digital Signal Processing/Transforms

This page lists some of the transforms from the book, explains their uses, and lists some transform pairs of common functions.

Continuous-Time Fourier Transform (CTFT)

 * $$\mathcal{F}(\omega) = \int f(t) e^{j \omega t} dt$$

Bilinear Transform
see

title: Digital Signal Processing/Transforms


text: Category:Book:Engineering Tables

title: Category:Book:Engineering Tables


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User:Kfitton

Instructor Kfitton is a graduate of Northern Michigan University with a B.S. in Social Studies/History Education and is currently certified in Michigan and Illinois for teaching social studies. In his off-time, he engages in educational policy and technology. Areas of speciality include: Western Civ, US History, The Third Reich, Imperialism, Social Movements of the 1950-1960s, Integration of Technology in Classrooms, Learning Management Systems, and Educational Theory/Ethics. Kfitton has written articles for online educational websites and is a member of both history and education honor societies. Questions for this instructor can be relayed to kfitton at hotmail.com

title: User:Kfitton


text:
Talk:Canadian Civil Procedure/Commencing a Proceeding

Originating Notice
While it is true that every jurisdiction in Canada requires some form of an "originating notice," it is not always referred to as such. For instance in Ontario it is called an "originating process" (Ontario Rules of Civil Procedure, at Rule 14). Some discussion of the differences in names and requirements may be useful as the page develops. 18:50, 1 August 2006 (UTC)
 * Yes, I was debating about how to handle the distinction between the provinces without resorting to an entirely different text. Any help would be appreciated. -PullUpYourSocks 03:10, 31 August 2006 (UTC)


text:
Feminism/Authors

Contributors

 * Bret

title: Feminism/Authors


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Bowline

See also Knots/Loop knots/Bowline.


text: Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Clove hitch


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Figure 8

|


text: Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Two half hitches


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Square

/Transcluded Modules


text: Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Knot/Mooring hitch


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Arimaa/Advanced Tactics

Short- and long-term planning are both essential to Arimaa. A position might be greatly improved in one or two turns, if one can spot the correct move.

Double threat
A turn might create multiple immediate threats that can't all be stopped. Such moves can be hard to anticipate, but solid home defense will leave one less vulnerable to a surprise double-threat.

Problem: Silver to move and win material Solution: Dd3w ee3w Hd4n ed3n (or ee3n Dd3e Hd4n ee4w, threatening the gold cat instead of the dog). Silver makes threats in both c3 and c6; Gold would need four steps just to save the now d5 horse, leaving the gold dog or cat to be captured in c3. With only two defenders, the c3 trap was vulnerable. This tactic would not have forced a capture had a gold rabbit been on b3.

Problem: Silver to move and win material Solution: Hb4n ec4w re7ss. Gold could prevent a capture only by moving his elephant to c5, but that would allow the now e5 rabbit to reach goal. A gold rabbit on e1 or e2 would have made a difference.

Counter-threat
After 18s of, Gold faced two strong capture threats. Currently, the gold horse on g5 faces capture in f6. The gold elephant is blocked from e5, so the silver camel is currently safe. The g3 dog could unfreeze the horse, but then the horse could only travel north, at best reaching h6 where it could be immediately threatened again.

The gold elephant could, in two steps, occupy e6 and thus protect f6, but then the gold camel could be captured in c6. The gold camel is frozen, and would thus need three steps to retreat. Rb4n rc4sx Mc5s or rc4sx Cd4w Mc5w would work, but neither would leave the requisite two steps for the gold elephant to protect f6.

Since the horse capture would currently require four steps, de6e Ed6ew would delay a capture. This is a three-for-one, as Gold would use three steps which Silver could undo in a single step. For Gold, the question is whether any fourth step could offset the lost time. Gold might advance the g3 dog in hopes of burrowing his horse on the next turn, but the silver horse could push the dog back and block any further attempt to unfreeze the gold horse; a step would remain for the silver dog to return to e6, clearing f6 and reestablishing a one-turn threat which Gold would need two steps to defend against. Unless Gold can substantially change the position, Silver could force a capture by pushing the gold camel onto c6; the camel could push its way off, but could still be captured if Gold used the other two steps to defend f6. Gold appears to have no fourth step which would prevent a camel or horse capture within a few turns. A three-for-one will be effective only if the opponent cannot spare even the one step to undo the three steps.

Facing the forced capture of a strong piece, Gold must create a counter-threat. If Gold could threaten the b6 horse with one-turn capture, he might either get a horse exchange or buy time to defend on both wings. Rb4n Mc5n cc7w Mc6n may look promising for Gold, but would in fact open a goal path for Silver, who could then advance the c4 rabbit to b2. With the western goal line thinly defended, this would at least delay Gold long enough for Silver to come out ahead.

Gold spotted a different way to threaten the b6 horse: rc4sx Cd4w Mc5w Ed6n. The silver rabbit was captured, and the gold camel was out of immediate danger, allowing the gold elephant to step north. Gold's resulting false protection threat offered Silver a horse exchange that would leave Gold up by a rabbit. Silver could decline this exchange and reestablish a double-threat, advancing his dog from a7 to a5 so that the gold camel would need two steps to move again. With the silver elephant having stepped west, however, the gold elephant might soon reach e5, threatening the silver camel if it remained on f5. Whatever the ultimate outcome, this horse capture threat appears to be by far Gold's best option for 19g, as any other move would cost him a horse or camel for little in return.

Congestion defences
Sometimes, occupying a particular square can stop the opponent from playing a particular move. A simple example is at right: Silver threatens to frame the gold horse with ef6s Hf7s cf8s re8e, but Gold to move can place his dog on f5 to block the pull. Since a pull can be blocked by any piece, this type of frame threat can usually be thwarted.

Congestion is commonly used to block an undesirable flip. A flip is only possible if the flipping piece is adjacent to two empty squares, one for it to pass through and one for the piece to be flipped onto. Here, Gold cannot flip the silver dog, and thus Silver's defense of c3 is intact for now, provided the gold camel is not in a position to dislodge the silver horse.

On 24s of, Silver established a one-turn goal threat which could not be blocked on the goal line. By stepping his horse east, however, Gold surrounded the silver horse, which could not then pull the g2 rabbit. Silver then moved his elephant to f1, leaving an "air bubble" on g1 which ensured a Silver goal. Had the elephant moved all the way to g1 on 25s, a gold dog could have occupied f1, once again blocking the pull needed for a goal.

Pinch
In the first diagram (31s from ), the silver camel is threatened. No other silver piece can defend the c3 trap, and other advanced silver pieces prevent a one-turn escape. However, Silver to move can defend with rb5e cb4n mb3n Ra3e, which sets up a formation known as a pinch. In the second diagram, note that all four key squares are occupied by gold pieces, and the gold elephant is surrounded on three sides, leaving no room for any capture. Gold can renew the threat by vacating a key square, but the silver camel and dog now have time to scatter.

A pinch may give a trap attacker time to secure key squares. At right, Gold would like to attack c6, but would need four steps just to get his elephant to d6; the silver horse could then retreat to b6, blocking the gold horse. Gold would prefer to advance his horse immediately, but could then lose it in c6, unless the silver elephant could be pinched. Ed3nn Dc3n Hb4n would do the job, and would also give the gold camel a chance to threaten the silver horse in c3.

A pinch defends against capture by blocking capture moves. Not all capture moves are equal; one can sometimes afford to lose a piece if the capturing piece would land on an inferior square. Silver would gladly trade her hostaged horse for a gold horse; ee3n De2n ee4nw can bring about an even horse trade. The dog pull is crucial, as it will force the gold camel to end its capture on g3 or f4. If the gold camel could instead finish on e3, Gold would have a follow-up threat to the d3 horse.

Capture congestion can strengthen a goal threat. At right, Silver cannot do a flip capture, and cannot afford to move her camel east; any pull or push capture would allow for a one- or two-turn goal by Gold.

Split capture
One sometimes has the choice of a split capture or a capture done entirely by one piece. On 13s of, the silver camel could have simply pushed the gold horse into the trap. By using his elephant for the second push, however, Silver created an immediate follow-up threat to the gold camel.

A split capture might not be the best option even if it appears to create a follow-up threat. In, the gold elephant got pinched after making a rabbit capture which could have been made entirely by the gold cat. Gold then lost crucial time moving his elephant and cat back to their previous squares.

Blocking the defender
Forcing a capture often depends on keeping a defender away from the trap. Even an elephant right next to a key square might be blocked by a phalanx. In the first diagram, Silver to move cannot save the g3 horse; Gold will capture it with Cf3s Ef4sn hg3wx. Since such a phalanx must include a piece in the trap, most instances of this tactic have the threatened piece next to the trap. The second diagram shows an exception, where Gold can play a split capture of the silver dog.

Opposite-trap blocking
An elephant might make a capture in c3 and then wish to defend f6, but this is four steps' distance even with a clear path. If there is not a clear path between diagonally opposite traps, an elephant may not be able to stop a multi-turn capture after making a capture.

Gold has just threatened a silver horse in c3, perhaps thinking that due to the silver dog on f6, Silver would not have time to capture the gold camel in return. This was incorrect; if Silver now plays ee4ew Mg4w mh4w and Gold captures the horse, Silver can then play Mf4n ee4e df6e dd6e, occupying e6 and pushing the gold camel to f5, where it cannot be unfrozen in time to move, as g5 is occupied by a silver cat. Since the camel capture will only take two more steps, Silver can use the other two steps to counter any follow-up threat by Gold.

After Silver plays ee4ew Mg4w mh4w, Gold can still save his camel if he abandons the threat to the silver horse. The horse might then threaten a gold rabbit in c6, however.

In this diagram, Silver has a single move which forces the capture of the gold horse: Hg4n ef4e cf7ss. Silver pieces on e6 and now f5 prevent Gold from defending the f6 trap in one turn. The subsequent horse capture would take a full four steps and leave the silver elephant decentralized, so Gold will have time to force a capture of his own if indeed Silver follows through with the horse capture. The now advanced silver cat is vulnerable, as is the silver dog, but Gold can do better, threatening the silver horse with Ec4nwe hb6s. Silver could then undo the horse pull in one step, but that one step would preclude the capture of the gold horse currently on g5, and the now c5 gold elephant could then defend f6. If Silver goes ahead with the horse capture, her own horse will remain on b5, from where it could be pushed to b4 and thus doomed to capture in c3; from g6, the silver elephant could not defend it in time. This tactic is rather delicate: if Silver had a rabbit on d8, she could instead reply with hb5n rd8sss, rescuing her horse while also placing two pushes, and thus five steps, between the c5 gold elephant and f5 or e6. The c7 cat couldn't be used for this, since the silver horse could then be captured in c6.

If from the diagrammed position Silver declines the forced horse capture, she will still be down two horses to one. With the camels gone, this may be worse than being down one horse to none, as two horses might easily overload a camel-less opponent. Silver should thus capture the horse, and try to get a further threat in the east if indeed Gold goes for the western horse capture.

False protection patterns
Capture threats in which a piece is held right next to a trap are not overly common, as one's own piece might have to occupy the square to keep control of the trap. Such a threat might be effective, however, if no defender could reach and hold a second key square. Sometimes, a false protection capture will be possible if the opponent attempts to defend against such a threat.

In the diagram, the gold cat must leave f3 before the silver camel can be captured, so Silver might have time to save the camel. If the gold elephant went to f4, or pulled the camel onto f4, Silver could unfreeze and retreat the camel. Gold to move could keep his elephant in place and block both f4 and e3 with Hd4ee Cf3w, but this would leave Silver well-positioned to get compensation for the doomed camel, especially since Gold would need another full turn to capture it. Gold could instead push the camel to g3, but would not then have time to adequately block both f4 and e3, and thus Silver could add a second defender to the trap (if the gold elephant pushed the camel south and then moved to f4, the camel could escape up the h-file). However, Gold can indeed push the camel to g3 and use his other two steps to doom the camel on the next turn. If Gold plays mg4s Eg5s Cf3w Hd4e, any possible Silver defense of f3 would not hold, due to false protection; if a silver rabbit or dog moved to f4, Gold could capture the camel and threaten the piece which came to defend it. If Silver foresaw this and didn't try to defend f3, Gold would then capture the camel in two steps, leaving more time to respond to any Silver counter-threat. Moving the gold horse to e4 also makes the horse safer than it would be on d4 or f4; this move should preserve the gold horse, although the b8 dog can be captured.

Problem: Gold to move and win the silver camel Solution: Mg3n rf3e Ee5s Dd2n. This wins the silver camel on the next turn, by forcing a false protection capture. By contrast, capturing the rabbit by dislodging the camel right away would allow the camel to retreat or be defended by the silver elephant. This camel-capture tactic would not work if Silver had a piece on f6, as Silver could then unfreeze her camel and move it through the trap to f2, since the silver rabbit would be on g3.

One facing a false protection capture might create a phalanx to block a push. A pull might still be possible, however. After being pinched on 17s of, Gold moved his horse onto f3 and pushed the silver camel onto g3. Silver moved a dog to f4 and blockaded that square, but the dog was then pulled into the trap after the silver camel was pulled away; the dog capture was accomplished via two pulls.

Repetition fights
Arimaa rules prohibit any move which results in a position identical to one which the same side has created twice before, at any point in the game. A repetition fight occurs when each side aims to restore a previous position or something close to it. When the three-repeat rule forces one side to deviate, the other has won the fight, for whatever that ends up being worth.

Pull and replace moves are a common source of repetition fights. In this diagram, Silver to move can break the horse frame with mb5sn Hb3n hc3w. Gold could reverse this move by pulling the silver horse back onto c3 and moving the gold horse back to b3. With this pull-and-replace, however, Gold would restore a position he created previously, and thus could never again end on that exact position. Silver, by contrast, created a new position the first time she broke the frame, and thus can repeat that move and force Gold to do something different. After a change elsewhere on the board, this repetition fight could potentially reoccur, since the overall position would be different.

Some repetition fights include several different positions; the outcome depends on who runs out of positions first. If a move can be undone and redone in three steps each, the fourth steps will be critical. With a nearly unlimited selection of fourth steps, such a repetition fight could go on and on if neither side chooses something different. A prolonged repetition fight might be a way to build reserve time, but one should look for a way out before the opponent finds one.

If a move creates a new position, and four steps are needed to restore the previous position, reversing the move would only be a way to stall. With Silver to move in this position, a sequence of four pull-and-replace moves is possible. Silver plays mh4we Hg3n hh3w (gold horse to g4, silver horse to g3). Gold then establishes a frame with Ef4sn hg3w Hg4s (silver horse to f3, gold horse to g3). Silver breaks the frame with mh4sn Hg3e hf3e (gold horse to h3, silver horse to g3). Gold can then retake g3 with Ef4ew hg3n Hh3w (silver horse to g4, gold horse to g3). Any of the last three moves was reversible, but could have then been repeated, while the reversal could not have been. In any event, Silver is the one forced to play a move other than a pull-and-replace.

A two-turn cycle occurs when each player essentially repeats his previous move, but with two pieces transposed. If Gold flips the silver cat to c6, Silver's only goal defense is to move her dog to c8 (dd6n cc6e dd7nw). If Gold then flips the dog to c6, Silver's only goal defense (cd6n dc6e cd7nw) will restore the initial position. After four such flips by Gold, Silver must deviate, allowing goal.

If the d6 piece were a cat, this would only be a one-turn cycle, since swapping the two cats would not change the position.

Here Gold wants to pull the silver horse to c4 to threaten it in c3, while Silver wants to free the horse and retain the threat to the gold camel. After pulling the horse with three steps, Gold must step his western dog or cat north, to stop the silver horse from escaping via eb5s hc4ee eb4n. In getting the horse back to d4, Silver will push the dog or the cat; the dog could be pushed to b3 or a4, while the cat could be pushed to d3, e4 or d5. Gold always moves the cat to d4 or the dog to b4, and thus Gold will run out of positions sooner despite having started this repetition fight. The silver horse can thus escape.

This position is based on the one after 8s of, but there d6 was vacant, and the silver dogs were both on the a-file. Gold could have captured the c7 rabbit, but preferred to threaten the silver horse instead, as Silver otherwise appeared poised for a strong camel hostage. Not wanting an additional gold attacker at c6, Silver opted not to push the gold cat to d5 until the repetitions precluded a push to d3 or e4. Once the gold cat was pushed to d5, it went to c7, capturing the rabbit and also threatening to free the gold camel. Silver could have avoided this by moving the a5 dog to b4 on 16s or even on 12s, as this would have changed the position, and the silver horse could not have then been frozen on c4.

In, Silver flipped the g4 gold horse to f5, hoping to capture it in return for the doomed silver camel. Gold undid the flip with Ee4n Hf5es Ee5s, but Silver repeated the flip and thus seemingly won the repetition fight. However, Gold then played the ko threat Mb5es hc6s Ha5e, threatening a silver horse in c3. After that horse retreated, the eastern gold horse moved back to g4. Since Gold's ko threat and Silver's response changed the position, Gold was now winning the eastern repetition fight.

"Ko threat" is a term borrowed from Go, which applies much less commonly to Arimaa. A ko threat need not be a good move locally; Gold's western position is of secondary importance here. The purpose is to restart the eastern repetition fight.

title: Arimaa/Advanced Tactics


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Talk:Basic Algebra/Working with Numbers/Absolute Value

In my explaination of a use for the absolute value, I talked about "distance". Technically, I should have used "displacement", but that word is not in Simple English. If displacement gets introduced before this lesson (it would be a good topic to have in the number line section), this lesson should change to reflect that.


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Talk:Biblical Studies

Does the title "old testament commentaries" imply that this wiki-book is intended to be from a Christian viewpoint?

NPOV issues
This book appears to be of non-secular character and of little academic use. I am of the opinion that Wikibooks should not be used to churn out evangelical material-Ravichandar My coffee shop 10:47, 10 October 2008 (UTC)

Nothing in the Wikibooks NPOV policy excludes books of religious character. The Bible has profoundly influenced Western culture in secular as well as religious ways. To be entirely ignorant of the Bible is to fail to understand modern and postmodern Western culture. Nothing limits those who may comment on a biblical subject to an Evangelical perspective. Unbelievers are as free to contribute as believers. Bible classes are taught in many state universities from an avowedly neutral, even antagonistic stance, sometimes by faculty members who profess no religous faith themselves. Thus, there is no sound reason why this book should not have a place among the Wiki collection. [gllyons 5 January 2009]

No
Biblical studies is a distinct discipline from Christian theology. Biblical studies should have a focus on the history of the bible and its historical context and interpretations while Christian theology should approach it from the point of view of a believer. Keep the two separate.

Issues with this Wikibook
As previous posts indicate there is a problem with this Wikibook title and intended scope and what contributors have been adding to the work. I've attempted to clarify the scope and put the title in context with that. I have also been reviewing edits and have noticed that there is a lack of understanding on the basic evolution of the biblical texts and the history behind them, I've attempted to create a structure that could help willing people to fix that problem and help put the rest of the Wikibook in shape to the evolution of the source texts. --Panic (talk) 04:10, 12 October 2010 (UTC)

title: Talk:Biblical Studies