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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Cattle Husbandry

3. What is castration, and what is its purpose?
Castration is the act of removing the testicles of a bull. It is also called steering, as the animal is thenceforth called a steer.

Castration is commonly performed on domestic animals not intended for breeding for the following reasons:
 * To reduce or prevent territorial behaviour
 * To reduce or prevent aggression
 * To reduce other consequences of sexual behaviour that may make animal husbandry more difficult, such as boundary/fence/enclosure destruction when attempting to get to nearby cows.
 * To increase growth and weight of the animal.
 * To improve the taste of the meat.

4. Why is dehorning done, and what age is best for dehorning?
Cattle with horns can injure themselves, other cattle, and their handlers. They can also bruise the meat which lowers the value of the cattle. It is best done before the age of three months, as they are more easily handled when they are this young, and they also recover from the procedure more quickly. Dehorning cattle over the age of one year is illegal in many localities, as it is considered inhumane. The procedure should be performed in the late afternoon or early morning when flies are less abundant, and thus, infection less likely. It should never be performed in wet weather as it will take much longer for the wounds to heal.

5. What is creep feeding?
Beef cattle are bred to quickly build up their body mass while deemphasizing milk production. A beef cow's milk production will begin to taper off before its calf's need for it decreases, so creep feeding is introduced to fill the gap. A creep feeder is an enclosure that holds feed so that it can be easily accessed by a small calf, but not accessed at all by grown cattle.

Calves born in the early spring or late fall benefit the most from creep feeding because the availability of grass in the pasture is decreased during these times.

6. When is a calf weaned?
The ideal time to wean a calf is when it is six to eight months old, though there are a variety of factors that can affect this. In hard times, such as a drought, a calf could be weaned earlier for the mother to get stronger before calving again. This will allow her secretory tissue to be restored before she calves again. Calves can be weaned as early as one month, when they begin eating grain and hay, optimal time for weaning is six months. The longer a calf is on a cow the healthier it will be and the faster it will grow.

7. What are the housing needs of cattle?
Cold weather will not hurt a cow so much as rain will. Cattle need a shelter they may enter whenever weather becomes too much for them. Such a shelter (like a barn or a simple shed) would provide enough cover. If they are able to be on pasture anytime they want then when they needed the protection of a barn they would go into it.

Beef Cattle
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Dairy Cattle
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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Fruit Growing

1. Why are fruit trees grafted?
Grafting is a method of plant propagation widely used in horticulture, where the tissues of one plant are encouraged to fuse with those of another. It is most commonly used for the propagation of trees and shrubs grown commercially.

In most cases, one plant is selected for its roots, and this is called the stock or rootstock. The other plant is selected for its stems, leaves, flowers, or fruits and is called the scion.

The reasons for grafting are as follows:
 * To induce dwarfing or cold tolerance or other characteristics to the scion.
 * Because the scion is difficult to propagate vegetatively by other means, such as by cuttings. In this case, cuttings of an easily rooted plant are used to provide a rootstock. In some cases, the scion may be easily propagated, but grafting may still be used because it is commercially the most cost-effective way of raising a particular type of plant.
 * To speed maturity of hybrids in fruit tree breeding programs. Hybrid seedlings may take ten or more years to flower and fruit on their own roots. Grafting can reduce the time to flowering and shorten the breeding program.
 * To provide pollenizers. For example, in tightly planted or badly planned apple orchards of a single variety, limbs of crab apple may be grafted at regularly spaced intervals onto trees down rows, say every fourth tree. This takes care of pollen needs at blossom time, yet does not confuse pickers who might otherwise mix varieties while harvesting, as the mature crab apples are so distinct from other apple varieties.
 * To change the cultivar in a fruit orchard to a more profitable cultivar, called topworking. It may be faster to graft a new cultivar onto existing limbs of established trees than to replant an entire orchard.

2. What does hardiness mean?
Hardiness determines the extent to which a plant or tree can tolerate cold or heat. Normally this is measured in cold such as "plant hardiness to 27 degrees." This means that below 27 degrees the plant will begin to be effected by the cold, starting with freezing of leaves and or fruit.

3. What site and soil conditions are required to grow three of the following:a. Apples b. Peachesc. Pears d. Plums e. Cherries f. Orangesg. An equivalent choice grown in your area, not listed above.
All of these trees require full sun and well-drained, deeply fertile soil. The hardiness zones and spacing vary depending on the variety of tree. They all require a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5 except the orange tree which requires a lower pH.

4. What is a dwarf fruit tree, and how is it dwarfed?
In horticulture dwarfing is considered a desirable characteristic in modern orchards, where genetic dwarfs may be selected and propagated, or more often, scions are grafted on to dwarfing rootstocks. Almost all modern apples in commercial use are propagated as dwarf or semi-dwarf trees for ease of picking and spraying, and higher productivity per unit of land.

Dwarf trees provide more fruit per unit of land, higher quality fruit, and reduce the danger of accidents by harvest crews working on ladders. ==5. Plant at least two fruit trees and train them by pruning for at least two seasons, or train and prune an existing tree. With supervision fertilize and spray as needed for one growing season. Show an example of harvested fruit to your examiner.==

Planting
Fruit trees need a lot of sun, so select a place where it will get plenty of light. Limit the tree's roots exposure to sunlight by leaving them covered until just before you set the stock in the ground. Dig a hole deep enough so that when the stock is set into it, it will grow at the same depth as when it was in the nursery. Loosen the soil all around the roots, and make sure the hole is wide enough to not crowd the roots. Trim off any damaged roots, and then set it in the hole. Add several inches of soil and lightly tamp it to remove any air pockets and then water it. Add more soil, repeating the light tamping and watering until you have covered the roots to their proper depth.

Water the tree frequently, especially during its first year. It is also a good idea to add a layer of mulch around the tree to help it retain water. Monitor the tree, as it will settle into the ground over time. Make sure that the graft point between the root stock and the scion remains at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) above ground, or the scion will form its own roots.

Pruning
In early spring, prune any branches that touch one another. This allows light to penetrate to the center of the tree and will increase its yield. You will, of course, only need to prune one of any two branches that cross. Prune any injured branches, and leave any short branches that are growing from the main trunk (these bear fruit first). In the tree's first five years, prune sparingly, only removing those branches that compete with the branches you want to keep. After the tree is five years old, prune it every year in the late winter. Do not allow crowding. When pruning, always cut the branch off even with its host limb (or trunk). Do not leave stubs.

Fertilizing
Fruit trees should be fertilized in early spring before they bud or sprout leaves. If the soil pH is above 7, use a 21-0-0 fertilizer or ammonium sulfate. If the soil pH is below 7, use a 15-5-10 fertilizer. A general rule of thumb is to use one pound of fertilizer for every inch of trunk diameter. Fertilizer can be spread on the ground around the tree and scratched in with a rake. The fertilizer should be laid down in a ring extending out so that it covers all the ground beneath the tree's branches. The inner portion of the ring should extend to within about one foot (30 cm) of the trunk.

Spraying
Spray trees with fruit tree spray when the flower petals begin to fall off and repeat every ten days until they are ready to harvest. Do not wait for insects to invade, but rather, keep them at bay before they get a foothold. In early spring while the tree is still dormant, you should spray it with dormant oil. Dormant oil is a highly refined petroleum product which is diluted with water prior to spraying. It suffocates scale insect, spider, and mite eggs that may have overwintered in the tree.

a. What is pollination?
For plants pollen is what causes reproduction. Some plants are either strictly male or strictly female while others have features of both sexes and can self pollinate successfully. Pollination is the transmission of pollen from one plant bud to another.

b. What is a pollinator?
A pollinator is the object be it an insect, bug, animal or weather that transmits pollen from one plant to another. Bees and humming birds are the two most well known pollinators.

c. Which trees need a pollinator?
Nut trees such as pecans and almonds require a pollinator, but most others can benefit from them as well.

7. How are young trees protected from rodent damage? Protect your young trees from rodents.
Rodents, especially voles, tend to feed on tree bark when other sources of food are exhausted or difficult to come by. Sometimes they will eat a band of bark encircling the trunk of the tree, and if this happens, the tree will die.

This can be prevented by wrapping wire mesh around the base of the tree. The mesh should have openings between an eighth and a quarter inch (3 – 6 mm). It should extend 30 inches (75 cm) above the ground, and 3 inches (7.5 cm) below the ground.

It also helps to pick up dropped fruit and mow around the trees during the summer, so that rodents are not attracted to the orchard.

8. Compare the qualities of flavor, texture, and appearance of two different varieties of the same fruit.
You can use any fruit for this, but it is probably easiest to find multiple varieties of apples. Apples are available in many countries all year round. If you are teaching this honor to a group, buy one apple per person, getting as many varieties as you can. Then cut each apple into slices, and place them on plates. Label each plate with the name of the apple variety it holds. Then have a taste testing party.


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Goat Husbandry

1. Identify live or from pictures at least two breeds of goats. Tell if they are raised for milk, meat, or wool.
You may also visit http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/goats/ for pictures and information on different goat breeds.

2. What type of housing should be provided for goats?
Goats are very adaptable animals, so many types of housing will suit them. A three-sided shed will work just fine in most cases, and the goats will seek it out when it rains or snows. The only time they need better housing is when they are kidding, in which case they need a draft-free area. Several goats can kid together in an indoor pen (in a barn or other building). Up to ten does can share a 20 square foot pen (4'x5').

The floor should be dirt or stone - concrete is not recommended. The floor should have 3-4 inches of bedding covering it (5"-6" if concrete). Bedding can be straw, sawdust, wood chips, newspaper, or some other absorbent material.

a. First month
Kids should drink their mother's milk within 20 minutes of birth. At this stage it will contain colostrum which is not much good for people to drink. Most goat keepers will allow a newborn kid to have all its mothers milk for the first couple of weeks until the colostrum is gone.

They will also get milk from their mothers, and this should be available to them at all times.

You can also make hay available to them right from the start. They may not eat it at this stage, but it's a good idea to let them get used to it.

b. Second month
Some goat keepers will separate the kids from their mothers at night. As long as all the kids are kept together, they will be happy, and the mothers seem to enjoy the break. This will allow you to milk the mothers in the evening.

Kids should be fed grain, minerals, hay, and a yeast culture made for this purpose. The yeast culture will help to establish the right kind of bacteria in the goat's rumen. Kids need a mineral with copper in it (most minerals that say they are for sheep and goats will not contain copper - avoid this).

You should also turn them out to pasture during the day to let them browse.

c. Pregnancy
Feed pregnant does about a pound of grain each day. They should also have hay twice a day in winter and once a day in summer. Allow them to browse in the pasture and give them minerals as well.

d. Freshened doe
A "freshened" doe is one that has just given birth and is just beginning to produce milk. She should be given 2-3 pound of grain per day, as well as some hay twice per day. She should also be given minerals, a yeast supplement, and be allowed to browse in the pasture.

e. Yearling
Yearlings should be given one cup of grain per day, hay twice per day in winter or once per day in summer. They should also be given a mineral supplement, a yeast supplement, and be allowed to browse in the pasture.

5. When are kids weaned?
Kids are weaned at 6 to 8 weeks of age.

6. When must the buck kids be removed from the does, and why?
Separate young bucks from the does when they become two months old. Bucks reach puberty between 7 weeks and 8 months, and if they are with the does when this happens, they will attempt to mate with them. They need to be separated before puberty so this does not happen.

7. How are goat's hoofs trimmed?
See http://www.boergoatshome.com/hooves.php for a very good tutorial on trimming goat hooves.

Goat hooves are trimmed with a specialized tool designed for the job and called (unsurprisingly) hoof shears. The first step is to clean the hoof thoroughly. When the hooves are clean enough, you should be able to see growth lines in them. The hooves should be trimmed parallel to these lines. The hoof should be trimmed short enough so that the front slopes straight down without curling at the tip. Once they are trimmed, you should use a surform to shape and smooth it. A surform is a carpenters tool that looks like a cross between a handplane and a cheese grater.

If you have large rocks in your pasture, you will need to trim their hooves less frequently. The goats will climb on the rocks and wear their hooves down naturally.

8. Why are goats good for clearing brush land?
Goats are reputed to be willing to eat almost anything. The digestive systems of a goat allow nearly any organic substance to be broken down and used as nutrients. Contrary to this reputation, they are quite fastidious in their habits, preferring to browse on the tips of woody shrubs and trees, as well as the occasional broad leaved plant. However, it can fairly be said that goats will eat almost anything in the botanical world. Their plant diet is extremely varied and includes some species which are toxic or detrimental to cattle and sheep. This makes them valuable for controlling weeds and clearing brush and undergrowth.

9. Name at least six items that are made from goat skins.

 * 1) Gloves
 * 2) Drumheads
 * 3) Rugs
 * 4) Boots
 * 5) Wineskin (Bible times in particular)
 * 6) Lampshades
 * 7) Coats

10. What are wattles?
A wattle is a fleshy dewlap hanging from a goat's neck.

11. Raise at least two goats for six months.
Have fun!

You can usually find information on goat care on the computer or at your library.

Goats are herd animals, so you should get more than one. If you have only one goat, it will not be happy and will continually cry for your attention. If you are a novice, you absolutely do not want a buck. If you only want one doe, the second animal should be a wether (castrated male). A wether should cost less than half what a does costs, and will be more friendly than either a buck or a doe. You could also get a second doe instead of a wether if you think you can keep up with milking them.

a. What are the points to consider when choosing a good milk goat?
A milking goat needs to have a good udder. It should be held tightly against her body and not sag. If she has not yet developed an udder, check her mother, and make sure her father produces goats with good udders. The teats should be well formed.

Get a gentle doe, as an aggressive one will be difficult to milk. She should not run away from you when you approach her, and she should allow you to touch her. If she does not allow you to touch her, don't buy her. Once she becomes skittish of people, it is nearly impossible to "tame" her again.

Choose goats that have good "conformation" - meaning they have all the right proportions for their breed. Also make sure the goat you choose is healthy and strong.

Does should look feminine rather than masculine. In general, a more feminine-looking goat will produce more milk than a masculine one will.

b. How is pasteurization done and what is its purpose?
Pasteurization is the process of heating liquids for the purpose of destroying viruses and harmful organisms such as bacteria, protozoa, molds, and yeasts.

Unlike sterilization, pasteurization is not intended to kill all micro-organisms in the food or liquid. Instead, pasteurization aims to achieve a "logarithmic reduction" in the number of viable organisms, reducing their number so they are unlikely to cause disease (assuming the pasteurized product is refrigerated and consumed before its expiration date). Commercial-scale sterilization of food is not common, because it adversely affects the taste and quality of the product.

Pasteurization typically uses temperatures below boiling since at temperatures above the boiling point for milk, casein micelles will irreversibly aggregate (or "curdle"). There are two main types of pasteurization used today: High Temperature/Short Time (HTST) and Extended Shelf Life (ESL) treatment. In the HTST process, milk is forced between metal plates or through pipes heated on the outside by hot water, and is heated to 71.7 °C (161 °F) for 15–20 seconds. ESL milk has a microbial filtration step and lower temperatures than HTST. Milk simply labeled "pasteurized" is usually treated with the HTST method.

a. Do the milking morning or evening for two goats, or morning and evening for one goat, for at least three months.
Before you do any milking, you will need to sterilize your equipment. Failure to do so will yield foul-tasting or contaminated milk, and neither of these is desirable. Sterilization can be accomplished by soaking the equipment in bleach water (¼ cup bleach for every two gallons or water, or 1 part bleach to every 128 parts water) for a minimum of two minutes. Then drain out the bleach water and allow the water and bleach to evaporate for at least 15 minutes.

Before you begin milking, you should clean the doe's udder. Again, you can use bleach water for this. Wash the area thoroughly, as this will help you prevent the spread of mastitis (an udder infection). Dry her off with a disposable paper towel. Use a seamless, stainless steel pail to catch the milk. Make sure you use a seamless pail, because the seams are nearly impossible to get clean. Some people like to use a goat-hobble to keep the doe from stepping into the pail during milking (if this happens, everything in the pail is ruined, and you will have to re-sterilize the pail before you can reuse it).

Now for the milking part. Do not pull on the goat's teats, as this can injure her. Instead, grip the teat (not the udder!) and squeeze your index finger closed, followed by the middle finger, ring finger, and pinky. This will progressively constrict the teat and force the milk out the orifice. It may take a while to get the hang of this, but be patient and persistent. Your goat will be able to read your frustration level, so patience is important. Once you get the hang of it, the milking motion will become second nature.

Express three to four squirts into the pail and then check for abnormalities (such as blood clots). Then continue milking until she milks out. When finished, cover the pail. Then pour a solution of bleach water (2 Tbsp bleach, 1 quart water) into a small paper cup and dip the doe's teats in this solution.

At this point you should weigh the milk and record your reading. Then transfer the milk to a milk tote (also seamless and stainless steel), and move on to the next goat, or get the milk into a refrigerator or into a pasteurizer.

b. Keep daily milk production records.
You can create a chart such as this, filling in the amount of milk each doe produces on each day. Standard practice is to record the milk's weight rather than its volume. Record the doe's name (or some other identifier) at the top of the columns between the "Date" and "Notes" fields. Record general health information or any unusual observations in the Notes column. You can also use a spreadsheet to track this information.


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Horse Husbandry

1. What line of profit is derived by the use of specially-selected mares?
The primary line of profit derived from a specially-selected mare is breeding her and selling the offspring.

However, making a profit in horse breeding is often difficult. While some owners of only a few horses may keep a foal for purely personal enjoyment, many individuals breed horses in hopes of making some money in the process.

The minimum cost of breeding for a mare owner includes the stud fee, and the cost of proper nutrition, management and veterinary care of the mare throughout gestation, parturition, and care of both mare and foal up to the time of weaning. Veterinary expenses may be higher if specialized reproductive technologies are used or health complications occur.

A general rule of thumb is that a foal intended for sale should be worth three times the cost of the stud fee if it were sold at the moment of birth. From birth forward, the costs of care and training are added to the value of the foal, with a sale price going up accordingly. If the foal wins awards in some form of competition, that may also enhance the price.

On the other hand, without careful thought, foals bred without a potential market for them may wind up being sold at a loss, and in a worst-case scenario, sold for "salvage" value—a euphemism for sale to slaughter as horsemeat.

Therefore, a mare owner must consider their reasons for breeding, asking hard questions of themselves as to whether their motivations are based on either emotion or profit and how realistic those motivations may be.

2. Why is it preferable to raise purebred colts rather than common grades?
If the breeding endeavor is intended to make a profit, there are market factors to consider which may vary considerably from year to year, from breed to breed, and by region of the world. In many cases, the low end of the market is saturated with horses, and the law of supply and demand thus allows little or no profit to be made from breeding unregistered animals or animals of poor quality, even if registered.

3. Name at least five points that are desirable in selecting a horse.

 * 1) Conformation - how well does the horse meet the standards specified for its breed?
 * 2) Temperament - this describes how gentle or spirited a horse is.
 * 3) Sport - does it fit with what you want to do?
 * 4) Training - unless you intend to train the horse yourself, you should get one that has already been trained.
 * 5) Health History - has the horse been plagued with health problems?  Were its parents and siblings healthy?

4. What type of training will help colts to grow into gentle, dependable horses?
Most young domesticated horses are handled at birth or within the first few days of life, though some are only handled for the first time when they are weaned from their mothers, or dams. Advocates of handling foals from birth sometimes use the concept of imprinting to introduce a foal within its first few days and weeks of life to many of the activities they will see throughout their lives. Within a few hours of birth, a foal being imprinted will have a human touch it all over, pick up its feet, and introduce it to human touch and voice.

Others may leave a foal alone for its first few hours or days, arguing that it is more important to allow the foal to bond with its dam. However, even people who do not advocate imprinting often still place value on handling a foal a great deal while it is still nursing and too small to easily overpower a human. By doing so, the foal ideally will learn that humans will not harm it, but also that humans must be respected.

While a foal is far too young to be ridden, it is still able to learn skills it will need later in life. By the end of a foal's first year, it should be halter-broke, meaning that it allows a halter placed upon its head and has been taught to be led by a human at a walk and trot, to stop on command and to stand tied. The young horse needs to be calm for basic grooming, as well as veterinary care such as vaccinations and worming. A foal needs regular hoof care and can be taught to stand while having its feet picked up and trimmed by a farrier. Ideally a young horse should learn all the basic skills it will need throughout its life, including: being caught from a field, loaded into a horse trailer, and not to fear flapping or noisy objects. It also can be exposed to the noise and commotion of ordinary human activity, including seeing motor vehicles, hearing radios, and so on. More advanced skills sometimes taught in the first year include learning to accept blankets placed on it, to be trimmed with electric clippers, and to be given a bath with water from a hose. The foal may learn basic voice commands for starting and stopping, and sometimes will learn to square its feet up for showing in in-hand or conformation classes. If these tasks are completed, the young horse will have no fear of things placed on its back, around its belly or in its mouth.

Some people, whether through philosophy or simply due to being pressed for time, do not handle foals significantly while they are still nursing, but wait until the foal is weaned from its dam to begin halter breaking and the other tasks of training a horse in its first year. The argument for gentling and halter-breaking at weaning is that the young horse, in crisis from being separated from its dam, will more readily bond with a human at weaning than at a later point in its life. Sometimes the tasks of basic gentling are not completed within the first year but continue when the horse is a yearling. Yearlings are larger and more unpredictable than weanlings, plus often are easily distracted, in part due to the first signs of sexual maturity. However, they also are still highly impressionable, and though very quick and agile, are not at their full adult strength.

Rarer, but not uncommon even in the modern world, is the practice of leaving young horses completely unhandled until they are old enough to be ridden, usually between the age of two and four, and completing all ground training as well as training for riding at the same time. However, waiting until a horse is full grown to begin training is often far riskier for humans and requires considerably more skill to avoid injury.

Living environment
Worldwide, horses and other equids usually live outside with access to shelter from the elements. In some cases, animals are kept in a barn or stable, or may have access to a shed or shelter. Horses require both shelter from wind and precipitation, as well as room to exercise and run. They must have access to clean fresh water at all times, and access to adequate forage such as grass or hay. In the winter, horses grow a heavy hair coat to keep warm and usually stay warm if well-fed and allowed access to shelter.

Pastures
Horses require room to exercise. If a horse is kept in a pasture, the amount of land needed for basic maintenance varies with climate, an animal needs more land for grazing in a dry climate than in a moist one. However, an average of between one and three acres of land per horse will provide adequate forage in much of the world, though feed may have to be supplemented in winter or during periods of drought. To lower the risk of laminitis, horses also may need to be removed from lush, rapidly changing grass for short periods in the spring and fall (autumn), when the grass is particularly high in non-structural carbohydrates.

Grooming
Horses groomed regularly have healthier and more attractive coats. Many horse management handbooks recommend grooming a horse daily, though for the average modern horse owner, this is not always possible. However, a horse should always be groomed before being ridden to avoid chafing and rubbing of dirt and other material, which can cause sores on the animal and also grind dirt into horse tack. Grooming also allows the horse handler to check for injuries and is a good way to gain the trust of the animal.

Veterinary care
There are many disorders that affect horses, including colic, laminitis, and internal parasites. Horses also can develop various infectious diseases that can be prevented by routine vaccination. It is sensible to register a horse or pony with a local equine veterinarian, in case of emergency. The veterinary practice will keep a record of the owner's details and where the horse or pony is kept, and any medical details. It is considered best practice for a horse to have an annual checkup, usually in the spring. Some practitioners recommend biannual checkups, in the spring and fall.

Parasite management
All horses and ponies have a parasite burden, and therefore treatment is periodically needed throughout the horse or pony's life. Some steps to reduce parasite infection include regularly removing droppings from the horse's stall, shed or field; breaking up droppings in fields by harrowing or disking; minimizing crowding in fields; periodically leaving a field empty for several weeks; or placing animals other than horses on the field for a period of time. If botflies are active, fly spray may repel insects, but needs frequent reapplication to remain effective. A small pumice stone or dull knife may be carefully used to scrape off any bot eggs that are stuck on the horse. (Bot eggs are yellow and roughly the size of a grain of sand, they are clearly visible on dark hair, harder to spot on white hair.)

However, worms cannot be completely eliminated. Therefore, most modern horse owners commonly give anthelmintic drugs (wormers) to their horses to reduce these parasites.

Dental care
A horse's teeth grow continuously throughout its life and can develop uneven wear patterns. Most common are sharp edges on the sides of the molars which may cause problems when eating or being ridden. For this reason a horse or pony needs to have its teeth checked by a veterinarian or qualified equine dentist at least once a year. If there are problems, any points, unevenness or rough areas can be ground down with a rasp until they are smooth. This process is known as "floating".

Types of food
Horses can consume approximately 2% to 2.5% of their body weight in dry feed each day. Therefore, a 1,000 lb (450 kg). adult horse could eat up to 25 pounds of food. Foals less than six months of age eat 2 to 4% of their weight each day.

Solid feeds are placed into three categories: forages (such as hay and grass), concentrates (including grain or pelleted rations), and supplements (such as prepared vitamin or mineral pellets). Equine nutritionists recommend that 50% or more of the animal's diet by weight should be forages. If a horse is working hard and requires more energy, the use of grain is increased and the percentage of forage decreased so that the horse obtains the energy content it needs for the work it is performing. However, forage amount should never go below 1% of the horse's body weight per day.

a. Halter

Horse halters are sometimes confused with a bridle. The primary difference between a halter and a bridle is that a halter is used by a handler on the ground to lead or tie up an animal, but a bridle is generally used by a person who is riding or driving an animal that has been trained in this use. A halter is safer than a bridle for tying, and in fact, a horse should never be tied with a bridle. On the other hand, a bridle offers more control when riding.

b. Bridle
A bridle is a piece of equipment used to control a horse. The bridle fits over a horse's head, and has the purpose of controlling the horse. It holds a bit in the horse's mouth. Headgear without a bit that uses a noseband to control a horse is called a hackamore, or, in some areas, a bitless bridle. There are many different designs with many different name variations, but all use a noseband that is designed to exert pressure on sensitive areas of the animal's face in order to provide direction and control.

Parts of the Bridle

The bridle consists of the following elements:
 * Crownpiece: The crownpiece, headstall (US) or headpiece (UK) goes over the horse's head just behind the animal's ears, at the poll. It is the main strap that holds the remaining parts of the bridle in place.
 * Cheekpieces: On most bridles, two cheekpieces attach to either side of the crownpiece and run down the side of the horse's face, along the cheekbone and attach to the bit rings. On some designs, the crownpiece is a longer strap that includes the right cheekand crownpiece as a single unit and only a left side cheekpiece is added.
 * Throatlatch: the throatlatch (US) or throatlash (UK) is usually part of the same piece of leather as the crownpiece. It runs from the horse's right ear, under the horse's throatlatch, and attaches below the left ear. The main purpose of the throatlatch is to prevent the bridle from coming off over the horse's head, which can occur if the horse rubs its head on an object, or if the bit is low in the horse's mouth and tightened reins raise it up, loosening the cheeks.
 * Browband: The crownpiece runs through the browband. The browband runs from just under one ear of the horse, across the forehead, to just under the other ear. It prevents the bridle from sliding behind the poll onto the upper neck, and holds multiple headstalls together when a cavesson or second bit is added, and holds the throatlatch in place on designs where it is a separate strap. In certain sports, such as dressage and Saddle seat, decorative browbands are sometimes fashionable.
 * Noseband: the noseband encircles the nose of the horse. It is often used to keep the animal's mouth closed, or to attach other pieces or equipment, such as martingales. See also Noseband.
 * Cavesson: The cavesson is a specific type of noseband used on English bridles wherein the noseband is attached to its own headstall, held onto the rest of the bridle by the browband. Because it has a separate headstall (also called sliphead), a cavesson can be adjusted with greater precision; a noseband that is simply attached to the same cheekpieces that hold the bit cannot be raised or lowered. In Saddle seat riding, the cavesson is often brightly colored and matches the browband. Variations on the standard English-style bridle are often named for their style of noseband. For use in polo, a gag bridle usually has a noseband plus a cavesson.
 * Reins: The reins of a bridle attach to the bit, below the attachment for the cheekpieces. The reins are the rider's link to the horse, and are seen on every bridle. Reins are often laced, braided, have stops, or are made of rubber or some other tacky material to provide extra grip.
 * Bit: The bit goes into the horse's mouth, resting on the sensitive interdental space between the horse's teeth known as the "bars."

c. Saddle
Parts of an equestrian saddle:
 * Tree: the base on which the rest of the saddle is built. Usually based on wood or a similar synthetic material, it is eventually covered in leather or a leatherlike synthetic. The tree size determines its fit on the horse's back as well as the size of the seat for the rider.
 * Seat: the part of the saddle where the rider sits, it is usually lower than the pommel and cantle to provide security
 * Pommel or Pomnel (English)/ Swells (Western): the front, slightly raised area of the saddle.
 * Cantle: the back of the saddle
 * Stirrup: part of the saddle in which the rider's feet go, provides support and leverage to the rider.
 * Leathers and Flaps (English) or Fenders (Western): The leather straps connecting the stirrups to the saddle tree and protecting the rider's legs from sweat.
 * D-ring: a "D"-shaped ring on the front of a saddle, to which certain pieces of equipment (such as breastplates) can be attached.
 * Girth or Cinch: A strap that goes around the horse's barrel that holds the saddle in place.

Hoof care
The hooves of a horse or pony are cleaned by being picked out with a hoof pick to remove any stones, mud and dirt and to check that the shoes (if worn) are in good condition. Keeping feet clean and dry wherever possible helps prevent both lameness as well as hoof diseases such as thrush (a hoof fungus). The feet should be cleaned every time the horse is ridden, and if the horse is not ridden, it is still best practice to check and clean feet frequently. Daily cleaning is recommended in many management books, but in practical terms, a weekly hoof check of healthy horses at rest is often sufficient during good weather.

Use of hoof oils, dressings, or other topical treatments varies by region, climate, and the needs of the individual horse. Many horses have healthy feet their entire lives without need for any type of hoof dressing. While some horses may have circumstances where a topical hoof treatment is of benefit, improper use of dressings can also create hoof problems, or make a situation worse instead of better. Thus, there is no universal set of guidelines suitable for all horses in all parts of the world. Farriers and veterinarians in a horse owner's local area can provide advice on the use and misuse of topical hoof dressings, offering suggestions tailored for the needs of the individual horse.

Horses and ponies require routine hoof care by a professional farrier every 6 to 8 weeks, depending on the animal, the work it performs and, in some areas, weather conditions. Hooves usually grow faster in the spring and fall than in summer or winter. They also appear to grow faster in warm, moist weather than in cold or dry weather. In damp climates, the hooves tend to spread out more and wear down less than in dry climates, though more lush, growing forage may also be a factor. Thus, a horse kept in a climate such as that of Ireland may need to have its feet trimmed more frequently than a horse kept in a drier climate such as Arizona, in the southwestern United States.

All domesticated horses need regular hoof trims, regardless of use. Horses in the wild do not need hoof trims because they travel as much as 50 miles a day in dry or semi-arid grassland in search of forage, a process that wears their feet naturally. Domestic horses in light use are not subjected to such severe living conditions and hence their feet grow faster than they can be worn down. Without regular trimming, their feet can get too long, eventually splitting, chipping and cracking, which can lead to lameness.

On the other hand, horses subjected to hard work may need horseshoes for additional protection. Some advocates of the barefoot horse movement maintain that proper management may reduce or eliminate the need for shoes, but certain activities, such as horse racing and police horse work, create unnatural levels of stress and will wear down hooves faster than they would in nature. Thus, some types of working horses almost always require some form of hoof protection.

The cost of farrier work varies widely, depending on the part of the world, the type of horse to be trimmed or shod, and any special issues with the horse's foot that may require more complex care. The cost of a trim is roughly half to one-third that of the cost of a set of shoes, and professional farriers are typically paid at a level commensurate with other skilled laborers in an area, such as plumbers or electricians, though farriers charge by the horse rather than by the hour.

In the United Kingdom, it is illegal for anyone else other than a registered farrier to shoe a horse or prepare a foot for the immediate reception of a shoe. The farrier should have any one of the following qualifications, the FWCF being the most highly skilled:
 * DipWCF (Diploma of the Worshipful Company of Farriers)
 * AWCF (Associateship of the Worshipful Company of Farriers)
 * FWCF (Fellowship of the Worshipful Company of Farriers)

In the USA, there are no legal restrictions on who may do farrier work. However, trained and qualified farriers usually belong to professional organizations such as: the AFA (American Farrier's Association), which certifies farriers as Intern, Journeyman, and Certified Farrier.

9. Care for a colt or horse for at least one week.
There are many ways to meet this requirement. If you own a horse, you will obviously have ample opportunity to care for it for a week (just make sure you really do, and don't just rely on mom, dad, or another relative to do it for you).

But it is far more common to not own your own horse. In that case, you will need to explore other options. If you have friends or relatives with a horse, they may welcome you to stay with them for a week during the summer in exchange for your caring for their horse. Unless they live very close to you, it is probably not realistic to commute to their stable and properly care for the animal. You really need to live on the farm to fully experience this aspect of the honor.

Another option is to attend one of many available "horse camps" - summer camp programs dedicated to the equestrian arts. Many of these are set up specifically for girls only, or for children over the age of 13, etc., so you will want to check that they will accept you before applying. However, they may be able to recommend another horse camp. Unfortunately, these programs are usually not cheap, so you may need to raise a substantial sum of money before you can attend. It might help to let your relatives know that you would like any birthday or Christmas gifts to be in the form of money set aside for this purpose, or you may be able to take on several odd jobs (shoveling horse stalls or putting up hay are ideas that come to mind). But don't limit your potential to equestrian-related jobs only.

If you really love horses and know a lot about them, you may be able to get a job at a horse camp. It doesn't hurt to ask!


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Island Fishing

1. Name five native methods that are used for island fishing.

 * Angling: Angling is a method of fishing by means of an "angle" (hook). The hook is usually attached by a line to a fishing rod. A bite indicator such as a float is sometimes used.
 * Nets: A fishing net or fishnet is a net that is used for fishing. Fishing nets are meshes usually formed by knotting a relatively thin thread. Modern nets are usually made of artificial polyamides like nylon, although nets of organic polyamides such as wool or silk thread were common until recently and are still used.
 * Trapping: A typical trap might consist of a frame of thick steel wire in the shape of a heart, with chicken wire stretched around it. The mesh wraps around the frame and then tapers into the inside of the trap. When a fish swims inside through this opening, it cannot get out, as the chicken wire opening bends back into its original narrowness. In earlier times, traps were constructed of wood and fibre.
 * Spearfishing: Spearfishing is an ancient method of fishing that has been used throughout the world for millennia. Early civilizations were familiar with the custom of spearing fish from rivers and streams using sharpened sticks.
 * Poison: Though not an environmentally sound practice, some island cultures would gather roots known to be toxic to fish, grind them up, and dump them into a river. The fish would be paralyzed (or killed) and float to the surface where great numbers of them could be gathered.  This method is not sustainable.

3. In your cultural setting identify types of fishing according to tides and phases of the moon.
Please check the phases of the moon befor going fishing.

6. b. Name ten poisonous or dangerous fish in your area.
Species may differ.


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Student's Guide to Michel Foucault

An Accessible and Useful Introduction to Foucault's Major Works.

Contents

 * 1) /Introduction/
 * 2) /Life/
 * 3) /Contexts/
 * 4) /Overview of Ideas in Foucault's Major Writings/
 * 5)  Madness and Civilization (1961)
 * 6)  The Birth of the Clinic (1963)
 * 7)  The Order of Things (1966)
 * 8)  The Archaeology of Knowledge (1969)
 * 9)  Discipline and Punish (1975)
 * 10)  The History of Sexuality (1976-84)
 * 11) /Conclusions/
 * 12) /Recommended Reading/

title: Student's Guide to Michel Foucault


text: Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Wind Surfing


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Pigeon Raising

1. Describe the proper type of pigeon house or loft, perch, trap, and nest box to use for pigeon raising. List the needed interior equipment for a loft.
Houses for pigeons are generally called lofts. Pigeon houses are also sometimes referred to as "coops" although the word seems to have originally applied to the breeding pens inside the housing. There are as many different kinds of enclosures used to house pigeons in as there are pigeon fanciers. There are no real constraints on the design of housing for pigeons but there are some things that most fanciers find desirable.

Multiple pens
Many pigeon fanciers build their pigeon loft with at least two pens. This allows a few positive outcomes for the pigeon fancier:

 * 1) They are able to separate their males from females in order to control breeding.
 * 2) They are able to separate young, unmated pigeons from mated and settled pairs. This allows the mated and settled pairs to breed better.

Most fanciers have at least two pens for their pigeons and often you'll encounter fanciers with more than two pens or possibly multiple pigeon lofts. Extra pens allow for the keeping of spare, unmated females and males which can be useful to replace existing pigeons which might perish from disease or predation. Because it can be difficult to determine the sex of a young pigeon it is also handy to have extra pens for pigeons that have been weaned but which have not given external indications of their sex yet.

Trap/landing board
For those pigeon fanciers that fly their pigeons (not all pigeon fanciers allow their pigeons to fly freely outside of their aviary) the pigeons need a means of egress to the loft. A trap or at least bobs and landing board allows the pigeon to get back into their home when they are ready to do so. There are different variations of trap and bobs used. Racing pigeons are commonly trapped home using a bob wired trapping arrangement that the birds push against the bob wires to gain access, but are restricted by the wires when trying to get back outside. Another form of trap typically called a Sputnik trap (pictured) uses an openings set on an angle which are just wide enough for one bird to gain access by dropping through into the loft.

Flypen
Sometimes pigeon fanciers cannot allow their birds complete liberty due to complaints of neighbors or the presence of raptors. However, pigeons have much better health and seem to be in much better spirits when they're given room to fly. So most fanciers, including those that let their birds fly, will build a large enclosed area free of obstacles where the pigeons can fly as freely as they wish. This is usually referred to as a flypen.

Nest boxes
Pigeon fanciers will often provide their mated pairs with nest boxes in which to build their nests. Because pigeons are quite territorial about their nesting area pigeons co-exist much more harmoniously when each mated pair has two nest boxes of their own.

Perches
Again, pigeon fanciers will often provide their birds (both mated and unmated pigeons) with more perches than the birds need. Because pigeons are also quite territorial about their perch it is best to insure that every pigeon in the loft has lots of places to perch.

Pigeon fanciers often have their pigeon lofts in suitably modified garden sheds. In Glasgow and other areas of Scotland there has been a tradition of pigeon keepers building their own freestanding urban pigeon lofts, or doocots, standing about 4m high in areas of waste ground close to housing estates. In New York City, pigeon fanciers often build pigeon lofts on the roof of the building.

4. What is the importance of proper molting? How can the molting season be controlled?
==5. Raise at least two pairs of pigeons. If homing pigeons, train them to return to their loft from a distance of 25 miles (40 km). If fancy or show pigeons, prepare them for exhibition and exhibit them in a fair or show.==

6. Submit a brief report, covering your experience in the care and training of the above pigeons, including sanitation, avoiding disease, lice, mites, rats, mice, and other vermin.
'''Note: From information obtained, it was learned that pigeons can carry as many as 14 kinds of diseases. Most are not fatal, but some could be if not treated properly. Before working on this honor, participants should contact agencies in their locality and get the safety information concerning the raising and housing of pigeons.'''


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Water Skiing

a. Never ski at night.
At night it is difficult for the boat driver to see hazards in the water, including the skier. The fact that the boat must travel at a high speed for skiing makes these hazards even more dangerous. They may not be seen in time to avoid them. High-speed boating accidents can be (and have been) fatal.

b. Never ski during an electrical storm.
When lightning strikes a body of water, the electricity travels across the surface, which is exactly where a skier would be located. If you see lighting while skiing, get out of the water as soon as possible.

c. Always wear a ski vest while skiing.
A ski vest protects the torso from impacts. This is important when travelling across the surface of the water at a high speed. Accidents do happen, and a ski vest can save your life.

d. Check to be sure the vest buckle is securely locked.
A ski vest that comes off during an accident is not nearly as effective as one that remains securely in place.

e. Make sure the ski rope is in good condition.
A frayed rope can break when stressed.

f. Make sure the ski bindings are in good condition.
Bindings in poor condition can break while in use, compromising the skiers control of the skis.

g. Have a spotter or a mirror in the ski boat.
The driver must be made aware if the skier is in trouble. Driving a boat at high speed while oblivious to the skier being towed is a recipe for disaster.

h. Stay clear of objects, such as other skiers, swimmers, docks, or floating objects.
These objects can kill.

i. If a fall occurs, let go of the rope.
Hanging on to the rope after a fall will subject the body to numerous impacts with the surface of the water. Being dragged along can also wrest the ski vest out of position.

j. After a fall, raise a hand to indicate you are all right.
This is to let the people on the boat know you are OK. This should be your regular practice so that in the event of an injury, failure to signal will bring swift help.

k. Do not stand in the ski boat while it is moving.
The likelihood of falling out of a boat is greatly increased for persons not seated. A fast boat can easily suck a person under where he can be hit by the propeller.


text: Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Water Skiing - Advanced


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Poultry Raising

a. Incubators
An Incubator is a chamber designed to hold fertile eggs at a controlled temperature and humidity. If temperature is held to 101.5 °F, the eggs will hatch after 21 days. An incubator is needed for hatching eggs if the hen is unavailable (such is the case if the fertile eggs are bought from a supplier).

b. Hovers
A hover, also called a brooder, is similar to a large, shallow upturned box with legs to raise it off the floor. Heat lamps are mounted on the inside of the box. Chicks gather under the hover for warmth.

c. Sanitary fowl houses
A sanitary fowl house is a small structure (typically 6'x4'x6' tall) designed to securely house poultry. The house is partitioned into several small rooms suitable for housing a few birds each. The bottom of each room is screened so that waste falls away from the fowl.

d. Coops
A coop is a building where poultry are kept. The inside of the coop normally consists of several nesting boxes just large enough for the birds to sit in while laying their eggs, as well as perches for the them to use while sleeping. Often the floor of the coop is covered with a material, such as straw or wood chips, to contain the bird waste, and to allow easier cleanup of the coop. Sometimes the coop contains feeding and watering devices for the birds, but these may also be kept outside of the coop, in the run. Most have some kind of ventilation to help air out any odors that may occur.

Since poultry are often prone to illness from drafts and poor weather, coops are best designed to be warm at cold times, cool at hot times, and as draft free as possible.

e. Runs
Runs are fenced in areas for poultry to get fresh air and exercise. If runs are not used most people let their birds roam free during the day.

4. Candle a number of eggs, finding at least one bad egg. What is the purpose of candling eggs?
You will need to build a simple apparatus to candle your eggs. It is simply an opaque box with a lightbulb inside, and a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of an egg cut into the top.

Place an egg on the hole and turn on the light. If you see a cloudy formation inside the egg, you can assume that it has been fertilized (the cloud is a developing embryo). This should be done after 2 or 3 days of incubation. Candling will also reveal cracks in the shell, and a cracked egg is unlikely to develop into a bird.

The purpose of candling is to determine which eggs have been fertilized and to detect bad eggs. Not all of the eggs are likely to be fertile. Fertility rates range from 50% to 95% in a healthy flock, with a 75% hatch rate being very good.

Always remove unfertilized eggs from the incubator. If you let them go, they will rot.

Hatchlings
It's pretty much obvious, but baby chickens need to drink. Under no circumstances give them un-boiled water. Their immune systems might not handle the germs just yet. Grain coffee (coffee made from oats or summat, as opposed to coffee made from coffee beans) is quite suitable for them. Make sure it's not hot. A good way to serve drink is to pour it into a large wide-mouthed jar, put a dish on top of the jar upside down, then flip the whole thing, so that the jar is upside down, standing on the dish. It should leak just enough coffee onto the dish so that the baby chickens can have a drink, and leak more when they have drunk some.

Baby chickens won't eat just any old thing. Milled oats are a good thing to feed them, at least initially. Hard boiled eggs (cut up into appropriate bite sized pieces, of course) go with the milled oats quite well. You may want to ask around in agriculture stores about special feed for baby chickens. DON'T FEED THEM BREAD! It will kill them. It's good to add cut-up lettuce to the baby chickens' diet. If you're not squeamish, small, flightless bugs, like centipedes can be entertaining, as well as nutritional to the chickens, just don't give those straight off to new-hatches, okay?

Grown Up (But Still Baby) Chicks
Remember those special foods for baby chickens? It's a kind of meal, only with vitamins, minerals and what not. It's good for them. Mashed potatoes mixed with that meal, are better. And the chickens like it VERY much. Cut-up lettuce, cabbage, grass is fine at this point. Insects are always welcome.

Adults
Feeding chickens is almost as easy as watering them. In nature chickens are the garbage cleaners of the Southeast Asian Jungle. For everyday food you can feed your chickens either chicken food (found at feed stores) or pig food. In Alberta the UFA Hog Grower is the same as the chick starter except the pellets are bigger, and the hog grower contains less antibiotics. If you have access to grain then you can feed that to them. Whenever you make food with lots of scraps (peelings and bits of vegetables that humans shouldn't eat) then feed those to them. Chickens can be trained so well if they see a small bucket (for carrying chicken scraps) they get excited because a treat is coming. You can feed your chickens in a trough, appropriate sized container, or by scattering the food on the ground. You can even give your chickens bones with scraps of meat on them. There is very little that they won't eat.

Information Specific to Laying Hens
Laying hens require calcium for egg shells. During the laying season, put a pile or box of crushed clam shells in their pen. Crushed clam shells are available at most local feed/farm stores. If you scatter the clam shells too much, you won't know when the hens need more until you see paper-thin shells. Egg shells also work for the calcium, but you run the risk of the birds learning to eat their own eggs. To avoid this you should crush the shells so that they don't look like eggs.

7. Make, buy, or rent an incubator and hatch six poultry eggs of your choice, with a 50% hatch.
Buying a new incubator is certainly the most convenient of these options, though you will pay a handsome price for the convenience. If you are planning to enter the poultry trade for the long term, it would probably be worth it. Otherwise, you should look into renting, buying used, or (if you possess the skills) building one yourself.

http://msucares.com/poultry/reproductions/poultry_make_incubator.html has plans for building two incubators; one from a polystyrene ice chest, and a more permanent model from plywood. A quick Internet search will turn up even more plans for you to choose from.

Once you have an incubator, it is very important to operate it for several hours before you add any eggs to it. These "practice" runs will help you learn to operate it at the proper and constant temperature. Do not add eggs until you have achieved stable operation at the required temperature. If you overheat the eggs, they will not hatch.

Once the incubator is on operation, you will be required to turn the eggs three times per day. If your incubator has an automatic turner built-in, this will obviously be a lot easier. Otherwise, mark one side of each egg with an X, and the other side with an O, and place all the eggs in the incubator with either the X or the O side up. This will help you keep track of which eggs you have already turned.

A few days before hatching (exactly how many days depends on the species) you should quit turning the eggs and boost the humidity. Once the eggs hatch, you can leave the hatchlings in the incubator for several days until they are large enough to use the hover.

Incubators generally have a wire mesh floor that can be easily lifted out for cleaning.

8. Raise these fowl for at least three months.
Have fun!

You can usually find information on poultry care on the computer or at your library.


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Sheep Husbandry

1. What kinds of areas do sheep naturally inhabit?
Wild sheep are mostly found in hilly or mountainous habitats.

2. What kind of vegetation furnishes the feed most ideal for sheep?
Ideal pasture for sheep is not lawn-like grass, but an array of grasses, legumes and forbs (herbaceous flowering plants ).

3. What type of shelter or barn should be provided for sheep?
Sheep are kept in mobs in paddocks; in pens or in a barn. In cold climates sheep may need shelter if they are freshly shorn or have baby lambs. Freshly shorn hoggets, especially, are very susceptible to wet, windy weather and will succumb to exposure very quickly. Sheep have to be kept dry for one to two days before shearing so that the fleece is dry enough to be pressed and to protect the health of the shearers.

A shed with three sides, with the fourth being open to the south (north in the southern hemisphere) provides adequate winter shelter for sheep. If you are planning to lamb during the winter, a closed barn that can be partially heated is vital to the success of your operation.

6. What considerations should be taken into account when selecting the breed of stock?
First you need to understand why you want to raise sheep. Sheep have been bred to optimize their wool production, meat production, milk production, and even multi-purpose breeds. Do some market research before deciding. If there is no market in your area for wool, you should consider raising a meat or milk breed. Likewise, if the market for mutton is weak, you should go with a wool breed. Choosing a multi-purpose breed might be a good way to hedge your bet, but these animals do not produce as well as a breed dedicated to a specific end-product. Also think about how much time you have. Do you have the necessary dedication to get up early every morning to milk your ewes?

Once you have chosen a breed, you will need to choose stock. Older ewes (3–5 years old) will have fewer problems lambing than younger ewes, and they can (and do) teach younger ewes to be good mothers. If you intend to become a profitable shepherd, it is vitally important to choose animals that can produce and raise twins. It is very difficult to break even unless most of your ewes can do this. Those that cannot should be culled.

Be extra particular when selecting a ram, as his genetic contribution to the flock will represent half of the total gene pool. Each ewe's contribution will be limited to the lambs she births, but every lamb will have the same father. The ram should not be related to any of the ewes.

7. What is the ideal size of flock for inexperienced beginners in sheep raising?
Inexperienced shepherds should start out with a flock of 25 sheep or fewer.

10. Know the meaning of the following terms

 * a. Castration: Castration is the act of removing the testicles of a male animal.
 * Castration is commonly performed on domestic animals not intended for breeding for the following reasons:
 * To reduce or prevent territorial behavior
 * To reduce or prevent aggression
 * To increase growth and weight of the animal.
 * To improve the taste of the meat.

 * b. Commercial: A commercial flock is one that produces lambs for sale as meat rather than as breeding stock
 * c. Concentrate: Food high in nutrition, low in fiber, and easily digested.
 * d. Cross bred: A cross bred lamb has a sire (ram) from one breed with a dam (ewe) from another.
 * e. Dam: A dam is the mother of a sheep.
 * f. Dock: Docking is used as a term for the intentional removal of part of an animal's tail or ears. The term cropping is also used, more commonly in reference to the docking of ears, while docking more commonly—but not exclusively—refers to the tail. The term bobbing is also used. Many breeds of sheep have their tails docked to prevent fly strike.
 * g. Drench: A drench is an oral veterinary medicine given to an animal to rid it of intestinal parasites, such as roundworm and tapeworm.
 * h. Ewe: A ewe is an adult female sheep
 * i. Flushing: Flushing is providing especially nutritious feed in the few weeks before mating to improve fertility, or in the period before birth to increase lamb birth-weight. It can also mean removing unfertilized or fertilized egg from an animal; often as part of an embryo transfer procedure.
 * j. Forages or roughages: Forages are grass, shrubs, and plants that can be used as food for sheep. Roughages are high fiber foods such as hay and some pasture plants.
 * k. Gain: The increase in weight of a lamb over a period of time.
 * l. Gestation: Gestation is the carrying of an unborn creature in the womb; pregnancy.
 * m. Grease weight: The weight of the fleece from a freshly shorn sheep.
 * n. Heat: A time period when a ewe is receptive to mating.
 * o. Lactation: Lactation is the production of milk by a female mammal.
 * p. Polled: A polled animal is one that has had its horns removed. Some breeds of livestock are "naturally polled" meaning they do not develop horns (and thus do not need to be polled).
 * q. Purebred: An animal whose parents belong wholly to the same breed is called a purebred.
 * r. Ram: A Ram is an adult male sheep.
 * s. Ration: A mixture of different types of feed.
 * t. Registered: An animal which has been issued a certificate by a breed association. A registered animal is guaranteed to be a purebred.
 * u. Scours: Diarrhea. It can quickly kill a lamb.
 * v. Scurred: Possessing the rudiments of a horn - hardened skin tissue where a horn would normally grow. The scur is not skeletal tissue.
 * w. Sire: A sire is the father of a sheep.
 * x. Wether: A wether is a castrated male sheep.


text:
Student's Guide to Michel Foucault/Introduction

Many people have been introduced to Foucault while attending a college or university class: a professor of literature mentions one of Foucault's ideas while making a point about a novel, or a footnote in a history book refers the reader to one of Foucault's writings. Like me, you might have met Foucault elsewhere—either as a name dropped casually in a magazine article to garnish a high-brow remark, or, at the other extreme, in the form of a bad photocopy of yet another bad photocopy of an article. Whatever the occasion, you were likely eager to learn more about Foucault, and you probably tried to do just that, so you became a student of Foucault.

Like most newcomers to Foucault, however, your initial excitement probably turned into frustration. Although his writing is often clear and straightforward, it is also peppered with descriptive language that can be quite poetic and elaborate at times. This can be refreshing, but it can also be challenging. Moreover, many phrases are simply lost in translation from the original French. The biggest challenge, however, is that Foucault's writing departs from familiar contexts and breaks new intellectual ground. To help you make sense of it all, you may have read other introductions to Foucault, only to be disappointed once again (some of these merely re-tell general points that you have already learned about Foucault, while others are too technical or academic to be of much use to you as a beginner).

This Wikibook clears a path through the rough spots in order to help you gain a solid understanding of Foucault's ideas. It briefly discusses his life, his place in the history of thought, and his tremendous legacy. Of most interest to you, though, is the way in which this book uses everyday English to introduce, point by point, the main ideas in his major writings. Therefore, it is not an encyclopedia article, and it is definitely not an academic essay that obsesses over obscure points that are of no interest to you. Rather, this Wikibook is a true companion—a step-by-step guide that will serve you well until you are comfortable enough to read Foucault's brilliant writing on your own.


text:
Student's Guide to Michel Foucault/Life

Michel Foucault was one of the most remarkable and important figures of the 20th century. His life spanned seven decades, during which time he both experienced and exposed the workings of a complex world full of centuries-old contradictions and modern conflicts. It would be worthwhile if, one day, you were to invest in a detailed biography of Foucault; until then, you can read the following, which departs from the typical biographical sketch by specifically examining key aspects of Foucault's life that possibly influenced his thought.

Early life
Foucault was born on October 15, 1926 in the town of Poitiers, France. Poitiers is known for its medieval architecture, as seen most visibly in its churches. Of particular note is the Baptistère Saint-Jean, which dates back to the 4th century and is thus the oldest Christian church in France. Foucault's town also featured romantic cafés and beautiful gardens, which added excitement and colour to a country that had been recently devastated by the First World War. It is against this backdrop of old and new, tradition and change, that Foucault spent his earliest years.

Foucault's family was of the professional class, since both his grandfather and his father, Paul, were respected physicians. Foucalt's mother, Anne Malapert, was also the daughter of a physician. She and Paul originally named their son Paul-Michel, thus following the conventional custom of recognizing their child's lineage. Indeed, the young Foucault was encouraged to follow in his father's and grandfathers' distinguished footsteps, but he showed signs of resistance. For instance, his earliest years of schooling were not remarkable, and years of tension with his father might have led him to change his given name simply to Michel.

Studies
Conflict and success marked Foucault's adolescent years. World War II brought with it the German occupation of his hometown, and Foucault settled into his studies in Paris at both the Lycée Henri-IV and the prestigious École Normale Supérieure. He chose to study psychology and philosophy, earning a licence in the latter field under the tutelage of Maurice Merleau-Ponty. It was now 1948, and it was both a transformative and troubling time for Michel. Intellectually, he was embracing Communism, but he would reject that leftist world-view within several years. While gaining distinction as a student, his early 20s were subject to erratic behaviour, depression, and even suicide attempts. As he sought treatment for his troubled thoughts, Foucault became even more fascinated with psychology and psychopathology, and he pursued formal training in both fields by the time he turned 26 in 1952.

One could say that Foucault found himself at a crossroads in his life and career. Having acknowledged his own homosexuality at a personal level while establishing his professional reputation as a young, brilliant, and radical intellectual, he was now prepared to launch full-force into the career of ideas and political activism for which he is so celebrated today.

Career
Foucault taught, published, and otherwise connected with the world in many ways. For one, he was a resident or visiting professor at universities in over a dozen countries, including Sweden, Germany, Tunisia, Brazil, Japan, Canada, the United States, and, of course, France. The Collège de France and the University of California at Berkeley were particularly significant posts for him, both in terms of prestige at the former and the opportunity for personal fulfillment at the latter, which offered him access to the vibrant gay subculture of San Francisco. Foucault wrote nearly a dozen major book-length works, most of which are heavily represented in university syllabi in the humanities and social sciences. This is to say nothing of his other extensive writings and sayings: articles, letters, interviews, and even lecture notes that have gained both critical and popular attention. Last, but not least, was Foucault's bold and frequent involvement in political protest and activism. The student revolts of the late 1960s perhaps stood out most prominently for him, as they did for many of his contemporaries. Indeed, he spent much of the 1970s as a political activist, rallying against the injustices of the Vietnam War and the war in Algeria, among others.

Influence in Brief
An AIDS-related illness ended Foucault's life on June 25, 1984, but his influence continues to breathe life into dozens of political causes and academic disciplines. With regard to AIDS specifically, his long-time partner, Daniel Defert, started AIDES, the very first AIDS-awareness organization in France. More broadly, Foucault's writing has had tremendous repercussions in fields and institutions that are either plagued by ineffectiveness or otherwise negatively affected by the dominance of decades or centuries of conventional systems of thought. His History of Sexuality in particular has provided much of the theoretical foundation for Gay and Lesbian studies in both academia and popular activism. Those in favour of reform in institutions such as hospitals, psychiatric facilities, and jails have also drawn heavily on Foucault's work. Academics in areas such as literature, history, education, and the arts have borrowed Foucault's concepts as critical tools for research and interpretation. While some (mostly non-European) academics have criticized the relative obscurity of his research sources and his hostility to long-established (and thus, for some, well-respected) organizations, it is fair to say that Foucault has sparked a level of discussion and debate that his contemporaries have seldom been able to match.

title: Student's Guide to Michel Foucault/Life


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Tumbling & Balancing - Advanced

(Instructor Required)

d. Aerial cartwheel
An aerial cartwheel is a cartwheel without the hands. When you do it, you will need to jump higher because gravity will take you into the ground. Be sure to do this move with a spotter at first.

e. Tinsica
A tinsica is a walkover where the hands and feet are placed in progression, i.e. hand, hand, foot, foot. Starts out as a cartwheel and then the body is twisted to end as a front walk-over.

f. Front walkover
Like a very slow front handspring. Hands down, feet over, stand up.

j. Neckspring
This is a very dangerous move, done on a vault. It was banned by the National Gymnastics Association when so many girls hurt or paralyzed themselves on this move.

b. Low arm to arm
Start out as a knee shoulder. The performer should be able to put her hands on the base's arms and be able to balance.

d. Low hand to hand
The flier and base need to know how to do a two high with the base in a kneeling position. From there, the base will tell the flier ready and then the flier will need to push themselves into a handstand.

e. High hand to hand
Low hand to hand and high hand to hand are basically the same except that the base takes a standing position.

f. Front angel balance on hands
The base will take the flier's waist, and the flier will put her hands on the base's shoulders. The base will lift the flier over his head, and the flier will tighten body and take her hands off.


text: Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outdoor Industries/Subsistence Farming


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Tumbling & Balancing

1. List safety precautions each performer and spotter should follow.
First, always assist the beginner through the exercise the first few times and gradually reduce the physical contact as he improves. The instructor must guide the performer so that he will be sure to get the feeling of the whole performance from the beginning. Second, spotting is very much a matter of handling weights. Weights are always lifted with the big leg muscles, not with the arms or back. When a man lifts or catches a weight, he gets under it. In tumbling, this means that the assistant or "spotter" must keep close to his man, get under his elbows in somersaults, and always be near enough to anticipate and prevent falls. Spotting at arm's length cannot be effective.

 * 1) Consider the performer as well as the exercise. Has he the right mental attitude for the stunt? Has he the proper physical development? Has he completed the preliminary work? Is he sick or tired today?
 * 2) The confidence of the performer should be developed in him self and in the safety man. The instructor should personally initiate the timid beginner into the fundamentals of tumbling. Use none but dependable bottom men, and once they are picked, they should seldom be changed.
 * 3) The performer should be taught never to try new stunts until he has completed the preliminary work and has been passed by the instructor.
 * 4) The attention of the performer should always be kept away from the dangers of an exercise. He should be allowed to think only of the fundamentals for proper execution. Fear causes tension and distracts from the ability to concentrate on fundamentals.
 * 5) The springboard is dangerous and its use should be permitted only under the closest supervision of an experienced instructor.

a. Tuck
In a tuck a gymnast is bend at the hips and the knees. Sit on the floor with your legs in front of you. Bend your knees so that your knees are touching your chest and your feet are "tucked" in close to your body. A variation on the tuck is called a "cowboy" tuck in which the gymnast pulls their knees out to the side somewhat in order to compress the tuck further. This enables faster rotation.

b. Pike
In a pike a gymnast is bent only at the hips. Sit on the floor with your legs straight out in front of you. Pikes of varying degrees including where a gymnast is essentially folded in half at their hips are used in gymnastics.

c. Lay-out
In a layout a gymnast is not bent at the hips nor the legs. A layout is the term used for a rotating skill in which the gymnasts body is essentially straight. A layout can be performed either hollow or arched.

d. Hyper-extension (arch)
In an arch a gymnasts hips are pushed forward, chest is open. Lie on your stomach with your arms by your ears. Lift your heels while keeping your legs straight, and lift your arms while keeping your arms straight.

e. Squat
Basically like a tuck. I don't know why they put this in here... but it is a deep knee bend exercise.

f. Straddle
In a straddle a gymnasts legs are separated with neither leg being forward or backward of the other. A straddled pike is a straddle in which the hips are closed or "piked" to some degree.

a. Tuck forward roll from squat
Forward roll but not from a standing position.

f. Straddle legged backward roll from extension
Start standing up but with your legs straddle standing position. Roll backwards putting your hands between your legs and pushing over. Once you get use to it, you should be able to come up with your legs straight and not bent.

g. Swedish fall
Swedish fall is like a pike plank position and then just putting one leg up.

h. Frogstand (knee-elbow stand)
Make a triangle. The bottom two points are the hand's positions and the top point is for the head. This will help you balance. Many people put their hands and head in a straight line, but you can't balance like that. You'll fall over. Instead of kicking straight up, you are going to rest your knees against your elbows because your elbows will be bent.

i. Headstand from frogstand
Take the frogstand instructions and then go into headstand.

j. Headstand
Make a triangle. The bottom two points are for your hands and the top is for you head. Kick up so that your feet are high in the air.

k. Handstand
Kick up so that the hands are planted securely to the ground and the feet are up in there air.

l. Cartwheel
Start in a lunge. Go Hand hand foot foot. So hands down first, the one closest to the ground first, then the other one, bring legs over and land.

a. Chest stand
Have the base go on hands and knees. The top will put one hand on the base's thigh and the other on the arm. They will lay their head over/on their back so their chin goes over their back and they will go into a handstand/headstand.

b. Thigh stand
How to: 1. Two bases lunge in toward one another. Flyer stands behind them. 2. Flyer places her right foot on the right base's left thigh (in her pocket). Her hands should be on base's shoulders. 3. Flyer puts her weight on right foot and jumps off of left leg. She puts her left leg on the left base's right thigh. Flyer locks legs and puts her arms in high V. To Dismount: Flyer steps back to starting position

c. Knee-shoulder balance
Have base lie back with legs bent. Have flyer straddle, putting their hands on the base's knees. Have the base put his hands on the fliers shoulders. Have the flyer go into a headstand/handstand position.

h. Front angel straddling waist
Hold onto the stunter's waist/ hips. The performer will jump up and over the base's head and become stiff to stay in a plank position.


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Recreation/Triathlon

1. Give three Bible principles and two Spirit of Prophecy principles to support exercise.

 * How many of you have ever heard: When I was your age, I walked to school, uphill, both ways, in the snow. These days, in general, there is less physical activity than in generations past.

Bible Principles

 * You can look up other translations at BibleGateway.com

Spirit of Prophecy

 * from Adventist Home, 263." In many cases the sickness of children can be traced to errors in management. Irregularities in eating, insufficient clothing in the chilly evening, lack of vigorous exercise to keep the blood in healthy circulation, or lack of abundance of air for its purification, may be the cause of the trouble. Let the parents study to find the causes of the sickness and then remedy the wrong conditions as soon as possible.
 * from Adventist Home, 493: It is the privilege and duty of Christians to seek to refresh their spirits and invigorate their bodies by innocent recreation, with the purpose of using their physical and mental powers to the glory of God.
 * from Education, 207: Recreation, when true to its name, re-creation, tends to strengthen and build up. Calling us aside from our ordinary cares and occupations, it affords refreshment for mind and body, and thus enables us to return with new vigor to the earnest work of life.
 * from Ministry of Healing, 238: Inactivity is a fruitful cause of disease. Exercise quickens and equalizes the circulation of the blood, but in idleness the blood does not circulate freely, and the changes in it, so necessary to life and health, do not take place. The skin, too, becomes inactive. Impurities are not expelled as they would be if the circulation had been quickened by vigorous exercise, the skin kept in a healthy condition, and the lungs fed with plenty of pure, fresh air. This state of the system throws a double burden on the excretory organs, and disease is the result.

==2. Give a report on the correct diet to maintain peak physical condition and how this was maintained for the duration of training. Include fluid intake during and pre- competition, and in-competition food intake. ==

3b. Present your regular training program.

 * (If you already train regularly, all the notes here are moot, otherwise, here are some thoughts).

 * It is often said: If you fail to plan, you plan to fail.

 * You should take the time to sit down and create a training schedule.

 * Sit down with a calendar and determine on which days of the week you can put time aside for your training.

 * You should train on a different sport each day. For example, swim one day, rest the next day, bike the next, rest the next, and run on the following day. I think that's five days, right? You've probably earned a rest until the next week.

 * Don't forget to ease into a training program, especially if you have not had a regular training program.

 * Commit yourself to this schedule, and follow it.

 * And do not forget to: Enjoy!

3c. List the correct equipment, including bike, shoes, clothing.
Here are some thoughts on the equipment you may need to get you to the finish line.

There are variations in Triathlons
Some triathlons are Canoe/kayak, mountain bike, and run, with various distances.

Essential equipment for the kayak leg includes a kayak or sea kayak (or any canoe for the beginner) paddle, lifejacket (you will not be able to compete without one), helmet if needed, and sun-glasses.

For the Swim

 * Swimsuit — A snug-fit suit will reduce drag in the water. This can be a standard swimsuit or you can get a specialized tri suit which also has bike-type shorts and a form-fitting top which you can wear through the entire race.
 * Goggles — Make sure they fit well and allow you to see.
 * Swim Cap — Usually the race provides this, however you may want one when you train.
 * Wetsuit — (Optional, unless you train or race in cold water). A wetsuit helps keep you warm and buoyant and preserves some of your energy for the rest of the race.
 * Lubricant — (Optional). Lubricants helps when removing the wetsuit. It also prevents chafing from clothing. (Petroleum-based products such as Vaseline can degrade wetsuit material and are therefore not recommended.)
 * Anti-Fog Solution or Spray — (Optional but works wonders to keep your goggles from fogging up, especially in cold water).

For the Bike

 * Bike — A road bike's lighter frame and narrower tires will be faster than a mountain bike, but lots of first-timers use whatever kind of bike they have.
 * Shoes — These can be your running shoes used with toe clips on your pedals or rigid biking shoes with cleats that attach to the pedals. Stiffer soled bike shoes deliver more power to your pedal stroke and can prevent your feet from going numb as you ride.
 * Helmet — Any approved bike helmet that fits. You will need one.
 * Sunglasses — Protects your eyes from glare and grit on the road.
 * Bike Gloves — For short (sprint-distance) races you can omit these to save time. Your hands probably won't feel the difference. It is nice to have on longer rides.
 * Shirt — You may already be in your swimsuit or the top you wore in the swim. You may like to have a dry shirt on in cooler conditions.
 * Bike Shorts — (Optional). You may wear a tri suit which has a thin pad for the entire race.
 * Socks — (Optional). Cotton will cause blisters.
 * Water Bottles — One, two. Depends on the distance and the temperature.
 * Bike Pump — Attach one to your bike's frame.
 * Spare Tube/Patch Kit — Keep in a small under-seat bag. Nothing is more frustrating than standing on the sidelines during a race with no way to fix your tire. You will also need to know how to fix a flat or change your tire.
 * Bike Computer — (Optional). Nice to have to keep track of distance, time and speed.

For the Run

 * Running Shoes — You can also add speed laces to save time.
 * Socks — You will likely want socks for the run to prevent blisters.
 * Sun Hat — Shade your face.
 * Race Belt — (Optional). Allows you to attach your race number quickly after the bike leg.

For the canoe/kayak

 * Aqua Shoes (or any shoe)
 * Helmet
 * Life jacket
 * Canoe/kayak (sea kayak is best)
 * Paddle
 * Cold weather gear (if competing in cold weather)

For Transitions

 * Towel — To dry off as well as to wipe your feet off between the swim and biking.
 * Gels, Bars, Sports Drink — Keep nearby when you bike ride and run.
 * Sunscreen — Apply before the bike or run so that you do not burn.
 * Day Pack or Duffel Bag — You need to carry your stuff, right?

Other Gear to Consider

 * Sports Watch — (Optional). This does not have to be expensive helps you with training and pacing.
 * Heart Rate Monitor — (Optional). Helps keep you within your target heart-rate zone when you train.

4. Exhibit knowledge of the techniques of swimming, cycling and running.

 * Review, as needed.

a. Swim—500m

 * That's 546 yards (or so, for the non-metric folks).

b. Cycle—15km

 * That's 9.32 miles (for the non-metric folks).

c. Run—10km

 * That's 6.21 miles (for the non-metric folks).

d. within 4.5 hours.

 * YOU can do it!

There are several types/distances in triathlons

 * The shortest is a sprint which has a 1/2-mile swim, 15-mile ride, 3.1-mile run. (800-m swim, 24.1-km ride, 5-km run)
 * The next is Olympic distance with a 1-mile swim, 30-mile ride, 6-mile run. (1600-m swim, 48.2k-m ride, 10-km run)
 * Half-ironman.
 * Hawaii's famous (and grueling) IronmanTM with a 2.4-mile swim, 112-mile ride, 26.2-mile run. (3862-m swim, 180-km ride, 42.195-km run)
 * Invercargill New Zealand's Wai Tri gets competitors from all over NZ. Triathlon: Kayak (5 km), Mtb (15 km), Run (7.8 km). Check out a more detailed description in the equipment section. Duathlon: Mtb (15 km), Run (7.8 km). Novice / Schools : Mtb (3.9 km), Run (3.9 km). The distances can vary year to year.


text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Outreach/Adventurer for Christ

To get the full benefit of this honor it is essential that you spend at least six months to a year working on it. You must choose a date to start this honor, and only projects started after this date will apply toward the honor.

a. Read the Junior morning devotional book each day.
Check your local Adventist Book Center for a devotional book or order one online at www.adventistbookcenter.com.

b. Faithfully study your Sabbath School lesson each week.
Guide Magazine publishes a weekly Sabbath School lesson. If your church does not subscribe to it, talk to the Junior Sabbath School teacher or your Sabbath School Secretary. You can also download the lessons online from http://www.juniorpowerpoints.org/article.php?id=3

c. Faithfully follow the Adventist Junior Youth Bible Year reading plan.
You can read the entire Bible in one year by reading three chapters each day and five chapters on Sabbath. You can make this a part of your morning devotional.

d. Develop a personal prayer diary, listing people and requests you are praying for and answers to prayer.
A prayer journal is nothing more than a notebook that you use to document the things you pray about. You can also use a computer to keep your notes. It is best to keep your prayer journal private.

Make entries as often as you like, leaving room to record the answers to the prayers. Review prayer requests weekly and add any updates. Creative Idea: Use a "flap foldable" as a prayer / devotional journal. Visit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6K0RnlNM7E to learn how.

e. Plan and conduct at least one devotion each week.
The devotion can be with your family, friends, or Pathfinder club. One approach is to get a devotional book, read an entry to the participants, and then open it up for discussion. It's even better if you can think up a few questions to get things started.

a. Send five homemade cards with personal messages, poems, or Bible verses to people who are in need of encouragement.
Handmade greeting cards is a hobby that is gaining in popularity. You can start without spending very much money, as most of the things you will need you probably already have around the house: paper, scissors, glue, and colored pencils. Many people enjoy using rubber stamps to make greeting cards. Check your local craft store for additional supplies.

b. Visit ten or more people and invite them to a special church or Pathfinder event.
These ten people could be people you know from school, your neighborhood, or from anywhere really. The types of church events you might wish to invite them to include concerts, holiday programs, or even picnics. Good Pathfinder events to invite people to include Induction, Investiture, Pathfinder Sabbath, can collecting, a hike, a museum trip - basically anything that Pathfinders do.

===c. Choose a friend and visit someone who was absent from Sabbath School or church. Take them a card and homemade treat. Have a sharing time about this experience with your family and pray for this person. === Your church probably has someone assigned to keep track of who is absent from your church. If you do not know who this is, ask your pastor or the church clerk. If no one in your church tracks this, you could volunteer to set up a welcoming committee.

But it is also possible for you to be on the lookout yourself for an absent member. Once you choose someone to visit, spend some time making the card and treat. Sabbath afternoons are perfect opportunities for visitation.

d. For one month keep your bedroom clean, your bed made, and do at least three kindness projects for each parent that show that you love them.
Your parents will be thrilled, and if you are not in the habit of keeping your room clean, you will see how little effort it requires if you address it every day.

Kindness project could include any of the following (so long as they have not asked you to do these things already):
 * Prepare a meal
 * Wash the dishes
 * Vacuum the living room
 * Wash the car
 * Weed the flower bed
 * Cut the grass
 * Rake the leaves
 * Foot massage
 * Bring a glass of lemonade or water
 * Anything else you can think of

e. Collect fifteen left-over Guides and pass them out to absent Sabbath School members, children in hospitals, laundromats, etc.
If you cannot get 15 leftover Guide's in one week, get as many as you can each week until you have passed out 15. Talk to your Junior or Earliteen Sabbath School teacher ahead of time. Some teachers already mail out the leftovers. If this is the case in your church, offer to take over that responsibility long enough to mail out the required number.

f. Take an audio or video recording of your pastor's sermon and special music to a shut-in for three weeks.
Talk to your pastor or a local church elder to get a list of shut-ins who would appreciate the recording. If your church does not record the services, ask who ever is in charge of the audio system what it would take to get that started. If your church decides to acquire recording equipment for this purpose, recommend that they use a computer instead of a cassette deck. A computer capable of doing this costs about the same as a cassette duplicator, and blank CD's are now cheaper than blank cassettes (and blank cassettes are getting more and more difficult to find). CD's have other advantages as well:
 * They allow you to split the various portions of the worship service into separate tracks
 * You can use free audio editing software to cut out the dead times
 * You can upload the sermons to a website for podcasting (get permission from the speaker first).
 * CD players are now more common than cassette players, especially in automobiles, where many people will choose to listen to them when they miss the church service.

g. Call your pastor, church elder, or deacon and volunteer to help him with any task he wants you to do for a period of two hours each week for three weeks.
There are many tasks around a church that need regular attention. If your pastor, elder, or deacon cannot think of anything for you to do, suggest one of the following:
 * Photocopying and/or folding bulletins
 * Weeding the flower beds
 * Washing windows
 * Painting
 * Help out in one of the Sabbath School departments
 * Serve food and/or clean up after potluck

a. Look for yards that need raking and rake and bag their leaves. In the winter, shovel snow or split firewood. Leave a note and Steps to Christ. Accept no money.
Section c of this requirement has information on getting inexpensive copies of Steps to Christ. Be sure to bring the needed tools with you. You should also get permission before starting your work.

b. Plan a birthday party with games, presents, and treats at a nursing home for a patient who has a birthday close to yours.
Since the passage of the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act (HIPAA), this option has become more difficult to exercise in the United States. Nursing homes are now unable to give you even the most general information (such as a birth date) about their patients. However, if your club visits a nursing home regularly, you will have the opportunity to build a relationship with someone who lives there. Once you have established a good rapport, you may ask that person when his or her birthday is.

Be sensitive about the types of treats you bring. Many of the elderly are on a special diet to control chronic conditions such as diabetes or high blood pressure. Submit a list of the treats to the nursing staff ahead of time so there are no surprises. If they will not allow you to bring treats, respect their authority.

c. Get the whole family involved in a witnessing project, such as giving Bible studies, passing out Steps to Christ to motels, adopting a family in need, doing a work project for an elderly person.
You can get copies of Steps to Christ at the Adventist Book Center. They generally have a few paperback editions that are priced to be bought in quantity. For example, as of this writing, you could get 100 copies for $40 (or for 59 cents per copy if bought one at a time).

===d. Read Matthew 25:35-40, then take a walk through your neighborhood and make a list of the needs of your neighbors. (Lonely, grass needs mowed, weeds need pulled, etc.) Go about taking care of as many needs as you can. ===

e. Respond to a tragedy in your community by personally getting involved in reaching out to help the people affected.
At first glance, this option seem to not be one that lends itself to planning ahead. However, there are many types of tragedies that can be anticipated. You may not know upon whom the tragedy will befall, but you can be nearly certain that one will. One such type of tragedy is a home fire. Another would be an unexpected death of a child or a parent. Think of how you might respond if such a tragedy were to occur to someone you know, then make preparations and stay tuned to your community. When a tragedy strikes, you will be prepared to minister.

4. Make up your own adventure, which must involve three different times of two hours each.
This requirement allows you to use your own imagination. Try to think of an adventure that allows you to use the skills you have or that you are passionate about. If you're drawing a blank, look at some of the other AY honors that interest you, and see if there's a way to turn that into an outreach adventure.

For example, if cake decorating looks interesting to you, you can make and decorate some cakes (the Cake Decorating honor requires that you decorate three cakes). Once you have decorated one, deliver it to a shelter or to a shut-in.

If woodworking interests you, look at the Woodworking honor. It has ideas for turning that vocation into a ministry.