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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/KA24DE and KA24E

=Specifications=

For model years 1989 and 1990 the Nissan 240SX used a KA24E.

The KA24E is a 2.4 liter single overhead cam (SOHC) 12-valve engine .It uses SEFI fuel injection, and contrary to popular rumor among KA24 owners, they do not feature forged steel connecting rods, but an internally half-counterweight one-piece cast crankshaft, and a cast aluminum intake manifold.

 * Bore × Stroke: 89.0 × 96.0 mm
 * Max power: 140 hp (105 kW) @ 5600 rpm
 * Max torque: 152 ft·lbf (206 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
 * Valve Configuration: SOHC, 12 valves
 * Compression ratio: 8.6:1 (9.1:1 for early 1989 24oSX )

The KA24DE is the stock engine for 1991 to 1998 S13 and S14 240SX vehicles. It is a 2.4 Liter DOHC Engine.

 * Bore × Stroke: 89.0 × 96.0 mm
 * Max power: 155 hp (115 kW) @ 5600 rpm
 * Max torque: 160 ft·lbf (217 Nm) @ 4400 rpm
 * Valve Configuration: DOHC, 16 valves
 * Compression ratio: 9.5:1 (S14/95-98) 9.0:1 (S13/91-94)

=NA Modifications= Basic N/A tuning can net you average increases out of your KA24DE / KA24E engine. The KA24 is a larger displacement four-cylinder motor. It was mainly built with low-end torque in mind. It also uses a long piston stroke to achieve its torque. This prevents it from having the high rev limit that is seen with other Nissan four-cylinder motors. With the basic bolt-ons, you can expect to see an additional 30 whp depending on the condition of your engine. Don't expect any huge horsepower gains from inexpensive NA modifications. While it's possible to reach 200+ horsepower, it will take superior tuning skills, along with pretty deep pockets. Most of this power is had through ECU tuning and custom parts, including cams, ITB's, larger valves, port and polish, and upgraded valvetrain. A complete engine overhaul is also recommended if any modifications are to be planned. These bolt-on parts are usually installed for KA24 NA buildups:

/Header/

/Aftermarket Engine management/

/CAI/(cold air intake)

/Exhaust/

/ITB's/(individual throttle bodies)

=Forced Induction= /Turbocharging/

/Supercharging/


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Engine Swaps

Overview
Engine swaps are one way that Nissan 240SX owners increase the power of their vehicles. Swapping in engines from Japanese market vehicles such as the 180SX, Silvia, and Skyline can be both rewarding and frustrating. Less common engine swaps like VQ series engines (from the US Market 350Z and Maxima) and Domestic V8's have also been done.

Sourcing An Engine
JDM Engine swaps can be purchased from several sources in the United states. JDM Engine swaps usually are available in 2 forms.

A motorset usually includes everything you need to get it into your chassis, however, it is usually shipped as a mass of parts that might be a bit confusing for a novice mechanic.

A front clip consists of the entire front portion of a car, cut behind the dashboard and shipped from Japan complete. Clips are a bit easier for novice mechanics to make sense of because they can see where every part belongs before they install them on their own cars. As an added bonus, clips might sometimes include aftermarket parts or JDM body parts. the downside of clips is that they usually cost more to purchase and ship than motorsets.

JDM Engines
JDM engine swaps are legal for on-road use in the US in a select few states. California 240SX owners have many additional inspection requirements that make owning a 240SX with a JDM engine swap a bit more of a hassle than other states.

USDM Engines
In some circumstances, USDM (sold in the united states) engine swaps are legal, as long as the engine is newer than the chassis it is installed in and the new engine retains all of the smog equipment it came with from the factory.

For 1995 and newer 240sx's this includes the fully functioning OBDII system.

Check with your state and county emissions regulation authorities for specifics on required pollution control equipment and testing procedures.

Nissan
/KA24E to KA24DE/

/SR20DET/

/SR20DE/

/CA18DET/

/RB20DET/

/RB25DET/

/RB26DETT/

/7MGTE/

/VG30DETT/

/VQ30DE/

/VH45DE/

/LS1/

/LS3/

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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User:AKADriver

Check out my Wikipedia User Page.

title: User:AKADriver


title: User:Karmafist~enwikibooks/Sandbox2


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Non Nissan Engine Swaps

Non Nissan Engine Swaps

=Chevy V8= The most common swap is to an LS series (aluminum block), which is most popular from the Corvette (but was also used in other vehicles such as the Trailblazer SS, Cadillac CTS-V, & 05/06 Pontiac GTO). The iron LT blocks should be do-able also. There is a 6 speed manual transmission available.

Specs and Versions
LS1, 5.7L = 350hp LS2, 6.0L = 400hp LS6, 5.7L = 400hp LS7, 7.0L = 505hp LS9, 6.2L(supercharged) = 638hp

Required Items
Engine

oilpan from the GTO

special motor mounts

custom drive shaft

some wiring harness magic to make your gaugepod work

electric radiator fans (new radiator recommended)

fuel pump

Step by Step
=Ford 302ci (5.0l) V8=

Specs and Versions
'95 to '02 ford explorer motor mounts

Step by Step
=Lexus 1UZ-FE=

Specs and Versions
244ci 262.4ci (4.0-4.3 L)

Early 90's Horsepower 250 @ 5600 Torque lbf 260 @ 4400

Mid 90's Horsepower 261 Torque lbf. 268 ft·lbf

Mid 90's with VVT-I Horsepower 290 Torque lbf. 300


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Transmission

=Manual Transmission= Gear Ratios KA24(D)E & SR20DET (S13/S14): 1st- 3.321 2nd- 1.902 3rd- 1.308 4th- 1.000 5th- 0.759

CA18DET (S13) 1st- 3.321 2nd- 1.902 3rd- 1.308 4th- 1.000 5th- 0.838

SR20DET (S15) 1st- 3.626 2nd- 2.20 3rd- 1.541 4th- 1.213 5th- 1.000 6th- 0.767

Short Shifter
A short shifter changes the fulcrum point of the shift linkage, this allows for a shorter throw to engage the gears.

/short shifter reviews/

Clutch
A clutch exists in Standard Transmission (manual) cars in order to separate the motor from the driveshaft for shifting and stopping. A clutch consists of a Flywheel, which is bolted to the Crankshaft of the motor, and a Friction Disc, which is splined and slides on the Manual Transmission input shaft, and a pressure plate which is bolted to the flywheel Depressing of the clutch pedal (which can be hydraulic, fluid, actuated or manual) separates the friction disc from the flywheel face by depressing the pressure plate, thus allowing the engine to spin free of the driveshaft/tires. Engaging the clutch by releasing the clutch pedal forces, via springs, the friction disc to contact the flywheel, which causes the transmission to spin the driveshaft and tires.

Old Definition:

In a car, you need a clutch because the engine spins all the time, but the car wheels don't. In order for a car to stop without killing the engine, the wheels need to be disconnected from the engine somehow. The clutch allows us to smoothly engage a spinning engine to a non-spinning transmission by controlling the slippage between them.

(Thanks to http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm)

/Clutch Reviews/

Flywheel
A flywheel is another component of the drivetrain in a Standard (manual) transmission vehicle. The Flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft of the motor. The job of the flywheel is to cause the transmission to spin via friction from the friction disc (which bolts to the manual transmission).

While lighter flywheels are theoretically better, the reduction of inertia between firing cycles of the motor can in effect reduce efficiency of the motor, countering its own intended purpose.

Old Definition:

An aluminum flywheel is a great modification to free up drivetrain loss, Create less shock damage on hard shifting from reduced inertia, Help the engine rev and respond quicker, and reduce time for the RPM to drop between shifts so during racing a rev match may be achieved sooner.

/Flywheel Reviews/

300ZX Transmission Upgrade
A '90-'98 300zx VG30DE or VG30DETT manual transmission can be installed using an adapter kit made by Mazworx Racing, which includes the adapter plate, shifter re-location bracket, transmission crossmember, steel driveshaft (optional aluminum or carbon) and associated machining of the bell housing to fit the SR20DET or KA24DE.

Xcessive Manufacturing also makes an adapter kit, which allows the use of an un-modified 300ZX (z32) transmission/bellhousing.

The 300zx tranny upgrade is the best thing for high powered sr(s) that are blowing through transmissions.

=Automatic Transmission=

WHAT YOU NEED
shifter & transmission.

(EDIT - TYLOR DURDAN - Also need the manual spacer plate between the motor and the transmission) - Not necessary

clutch & brake pedal. - Auto brake pedal can be cut

master & slave cylinder.

5 speed bellhousing to engine bolts(flange is thicker on manual needing longer bolts)

steel hydraulic lines, which will deliver pressure from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder, which pushes on the throwout bearing. - braided line can be used instead of steel ones

manual tranny crossmember.

manual flywheel w/ bolts.

manual transmission driveshaft or custom one piece driveshaft for a manual transmission.

Computer for a manual transmission car. (Not always necessary. A ground loop can be installed to the starter circuit connector under the hood [Black w/ White stripe and Black w/ Yellow stripe wires are the two wires on this circuit, and jumpering eliminates the need for the new ECU]) (EDIT-WRONG! regardless of which ECU you use, this is a needed jumper. This part of the harness is a mechanical break in the starter circuitry interupted by the transmission itself. - Tylor Durdan)

Pilot bushing to install in crankshaft of engine. - called spigot bush

Shop manual (these are available on ebay. You will need it for the wiring modifications needed to install the neutral safety switch and clutch safety switch so the cruise control will work.)

MODIFICATIONS THAT NEED TO BE MADE
The hole for the clutch master cylinder and the 2 mounting bolts must be drilled out of the firewall. This is very easy, as they are clearly marked out on the firewall.

I found that a 1 3/8" hole saw works perfect for the hole for the master cylinder to mate to the firewall. Use a center punch to line it up before drilling or you'll be disappointed with the fitment. (WJ)

The hydraulic hard lines for the clutch must be installed.

The brake pedal must be replaced with the assembly for the manual transmission (don't forget the brake light switch).

You can cut your auto brake pedal down to size with a grinder, dremel, etc. instead of performing the long task of swapping the brake pedal. (WJ)

Clutch pedal from your model year is the best bet. I used an S13 pedal on my S14 but had to fab two spacers (1 1/8" or so) to make it work for the mounting bolts as the S14 pedal has spacers built into the pedal assembly whereas the S13 uses spacers attached to the interior firewall. If you are using spacers ensure that the clutch pedal assembly lines up successfully with the existing or swapped brake pedal. (WJ)

The shift lock feature of the automatic transmission must be defeated. This can be done two ways. 1: Run a new wire from the ignition cylinder to the starter solenoid. 2. Bypass (short)the switch.

If retaining the auto radiator, block off the transmission cooler lines located on the bottom of the radiator.

Remove the automatic bushing adaptor from the crankshaft and install the manual pilot bushing. The automatic adaptor is a real PITA to get out. The most effective way that "I" know of is to use a carbide side cutter and carefully cut a slot in it, then compress it with a good set of vice grips and then pull it out. I have broken 3 pilot bushing pullers trying to get it using the "right tool".

I successfully used the bushing puller after cutting the automatic bushing with a dremel and cutting wheel at 12/3/6/9 o'clock and then at 1:30/4:30/7:30/10:30. Warning! Be careful to NOT cut into the crankshaft with any tool. (WJ)The boy's over at Team Clockwork Performance use a large pipe wrench (monkey wrench) inserted into a large pipe for leverage and use a twisting motion to get the bushing out. One person holds the crank from spinning with a socket and breaker bar while the other spins the bushing enough times for it to slide off. Use this method with caution.


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User talk:4.19.95.193

Gibberish in Desert Treasure page
You (or someone with the same Internet address) wrote "lol =)" on the RuneScape/Quests/Desert Treasure. I have removed it.

Please do not leave gibberish lettering and punctuation around Wikibooks. You are welcome to do it in the Sandbox if you want, though. Remember, when you click "Save page", everyone sees it. Thanks, --Kernigh 22:42, 28 March 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:4.19.95.193


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User talk:70.81.250.132

Stupid statement in "Wikijunior Ancient Civilizations/Indus Valley"
Be careful, please. Whatever you write, when you click "Save page", everyone sees it! The "Save page" button is for improving that page, not destroying it. If you only want to mess around, use the Sandbox. Thanks, --Kernigh 22:47, 28 March 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:70.81.250.132


text:
User talk:61.2.226.143

"Wikijunior Ancient Civilizations/Indus Valley"
The "Wikijunior Ancient Civilizations/Indus Valley" page is not the place for inserting miscellaneous extra words such as "Crap". Please use the Sandbox instead. Remember, when you click "Save page", everyone sees it. Thanks, --Kernigh 22:49, 28 March 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:61.2.226.143


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Differential

=Welding your Stock Differential= Weld locking the stock differential is a popular but controversial modification. Welding a differential is typically done to a drift-use car, and is unfavorable to daily-driving conditions. With the proper knowledge daily driving a welded differential can be a livable experience.

The "welded diff" is done by welding the spider gears together in the factory differential. Special care should be taken to make the most durable welds possible, some have welded thick bolts onto the spider gears to make for a stronger weld. Failure could result in an immobilized diff which would cause an unsafe condition for you, and those around you.

Pros:

- Breaks traction consistently, makes drifting much easier than open diff.

- It's cheap, a welder will charge something near $50 USD to weld. Replacement differentials can be found used for around $40 USD.

- It's extremely durable when done properly.

- Little to no maintenance.

Cons:

- Requires a different way of taking corners. taking care not to break the tires loose and cause oversteer.

- Tires make noise at very low speeds (typically parking, or U-turns) as the wheels "fight" each other. The wheels are traveling at the same speed, but along different radii, which causes the inside wheel to shake, hop, and break loose at low speeds. This will increase tire wear in normal use, but if you really care about tire wear over performance, you wouldn't be welding a differential. Let it also be known that most 2-way LSD's exhibit this same characteristic, especially the more aggressive ones.

- Not recommended for inexperienced grip driving. Can be very effective and far more consistent than an open differential, but requires advanced driving techniques.

- If the welds break, they can cause differential lock, and lead to a potential accident.

/How to weld your stock diff/

=OEM LSDs=

Viscous Limited Slip Differential (VLSD)

A viscous differential works by heating a thick fluid, making it expand. The diff has 2 plates close together (one for each axle), similar to a clutch type diff, but they never touch each other. When the wheels spin in opposite directions the fluid between the plates is heated up and expands, locking the plates together. As you can imagine its not a very efficient lock, but the smooth power transfer makes it the most streetable limited slip differential.

VLSD may not be a direct drop into the S chassis cars. The LSD that works best on a 240SX is the R200V. Depending on what vehicle the R200 comes from, the differential cover, output shafts, and drive shaft may need to be swapped as well. The S14 only has a 2 bolt rear cover while the S13 has a 4 bolt. Also the output shafts may be 5 bolt outputs, so the axles may also need to be changed from the stock 6 bolt axles. They were an option for all 240sx, but are more rare in the US. The drive shaft on a factory LSD equipped 240sx is about 3/4" shorter than non-LSD models, and likewise the VLSD unit is about 3/4" longer than the open differential. Some have reported using a non-LSD drive shaft with a VLSD and not having issues. The R200V differential came on many other cars, such as the Infiniti J30, Q45, Skyline R32, S13 240sx W/ Hicas, and 300zx (n/a only; the turbo models have an R230 that won't fit without more complex modifications). Because of the availability of these differentials, the VLSD is an obtainable and practical LSD upgrade for the stock 240sx. Be careful about the gear ratio, though. There can be a difference in the gear ratio depending on the vehicle you source the R200V from, and this can affect the accuracy of the speedometer and also make the engine run at a different RPM at a given speed when compared to the stock unit.

The Z32 (1991+) 300ZX non-turbo has a R200V differential; the turbo has a 220mm ring gear and won't fit S13/14/15. It has the 5 bolt axles, which you can source from a 1991 J30. They are the proper length and spline to fit at least the S13.

S15 Helical LSD
The S15 differential has gears that are cut in a fashion that when the car is turning the gears mesh together and transfer power to the tire with more traction. It does not lock like a clutch diff, but is very smooth. The best thing about a helical diff is that it practically never wears out. You can treat it the same as an open diff: change the oil regularly and it will likely outlast the car.

The S15 helical differential is probably the best diff for road racing applications. It is not recommended for drifting because it never actually locks. The differential can only multiply the torque it can apply at the side with low traction, so if one tire has very little traction (such as on ice or in the air) then the differential will act the same as an open differential.

=Aftermarket LSDs=

Clutch Type
The Clutch type differential works much like you would expect. There are a number of wet clutch plates close together and when the power needs to be transferred the clutch plates lock together helping the power get to the wheel with more traction. There are three common types of clutch differentials used: 1-way, 1.5way and 2 way, each with its own advantages.


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Driveshaft

=Stock= The stock drive shaft is a 2-piece unit which weighs in at approximately 18 lbs. The front section is transmission specific (auto or manual) and the rear section is ABS specific (either you have it or you dont). There is a carrier bearing in the center of the 2 pieces which can be used as a catch if you were to upgrade to a aftermarket one piece drive shaft.

=Aluminum Drive Shaft= Many places sell them for arround $400. The are substantially lighter and stiffer helping you transfer more power to the wheels.

=Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft= These are not very much lighter than the aluminum version, but they are safer. If you drop the aluminum one it will break and then rotate around destroying the bottom side of your chassis and possibly making you crash. The carbon fiber one will disintegrate as soon as it hits the pavement, not harming anything besides itself. IMO is not worth the extra money, just be sure to use have a drive shaft catch and check the bolts before and after every track day.

A 1 piece driveshaft can be installed in lieu of the stock 2 piece. This will by nature reduce weight and decrease drivetrain "slop" over stock. There are various companies that produce these in steel, aluminum, and carbon fiber based tubes. You may also bring your current one to a local driveshaft repair facility to recondition the stock U joints and convert it to a single piece tubular steel driveshaft for low cost. Note that driveshafts are all different based on whether or not its an s13 or s14/auto or manual/and if equipped with abs or not.


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Shocks and Springs

Shocks and springs are an inexpensive alternative to full coilovers to give your car a lower, stiffer, more sporty ride. Lower springs with a stiffer spring rate will make your car ride rough, the tradeoff is reduced weight transfer and greater stabillity when cornering.

=Shocks= Shocks keep the springs on your car from constantly bouncing by providing resistance to the lateral motion of the shock and spring assembly.

Aftermarket shocks usually have features like adjustability or support for lower height springs.

/shock reviews/

=Springs= Springs dictate the ride height of the car and the motion of the dampers.

Stiff, low springs allow of reduced weight transfer when accelerating and cornering at the cost of reduced ride comfort.

/spring reviews/


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Bushings

Bushings need to be replaced. =REAR SUSPENSION=

Subframe Bushings/Collars
You can get aluminum collars and stiffen up the rear or just take out the entire rear subframe, burn out the old bushings, and press in brand new, stiffer bushings.


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Coilovers

=COILOVERS=

Benefits over Spring and Shock Assembly
This is a set (spring and shock) sold together. It is better than a spring and shock assembly for many reason. They usually come with stiffer springs, and the shocks are matched to the spring rates that they come with. Also they are usually ride height adjustable so you can lower your car at will, as well as corner weight it. A lot of them are also dual ride height adjustable. This means that the spring can be preload at will and the rest of the assembly can be lowered as a whole. The shock as a whole descends through the knuckle and makes it so the shock piston is at the optimal range while being lowered to maintain optimal suspension travel.

/coilover reviews/


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Brake Upgrades

=Stock brake spec and known compatible replacements= Front options for S-chassis

S13 USDM ('89-'94) rotors are 252x20mm (non ABS) or 257x22mm (with ABS)

S13 Silvia/180SX (CA18DET) rotors are smaller than S13 Silvia/180SX (SR20DET) brakes. Maybe they are the size of S13 USDM brakes?

S13 Silvia/180SX (SR20DET) rotors are 280x22mm

Altima rotors are 280x22mm

Z32 rotors are 280x 26mm or 30mm

rear options for S-chassis

S13 - 10" non-vented rotor, smaller single piston caliper, integral handbrake

S14/S15 - 10" non-vented rotor, larger single piston caliper, integral handbrake

A31 Cefiro - 10.5" non-vented rotor, smaller single piston caliper, drum handbrake

J30/Q45 - 11" vented rotor, large single piston caliper, drum handbrake

Z32/R32 - 11.75" vented rotor, 2-piston caliper, drum handbrake

=Stock Brake Improvements= The factory brake system can be optimized by using a good brand of sport/racing pads, high quality rotors and fresh high quality brake fluid. These items will assist in getting the most out of the hardware provided by the manufacturer, and are generally the best bang for the buck upgrade. This is considered sufficient for many owners and can lock some very sticky tires easily while retaining the most linear modularity.

Late model 5-lug S14s('97-'98) have slightly larger rotors and use a considerably larger pad than other models.

=Maxima / 180SX spec Brake Swap= The owners of S14's ('95-'98), can upgrade their brakes using 1995 Nissan Maxima calipers, rotors and pads, and for those with 4 bolt use 1995 Nissan Altima rotors with a 3mm spacer between the caliper and the spindle.

For the owners of S13s ('89-'94) You can upgrade your stock front brakes to JDM 180SX spec using USDM parts. This upgrades main benefit is the additional mass to the rotor for heat dissipation. The caliper pistons are not so large as to impact braking bias more than a trivial amount. The following will be needed for this swap:

('93-'97) 1st generation Nissan ultima rotors. These are 280x22mm and have a 4x114 bolt pattern.

('89-'99) 3rd and 4th generation Nissan Maxima brake calipers

('89-'99) 3rd and 4th generation Nissan Maxima brake caliper mounting brackets

('89-'99) 3rd and 4th generation Nissan Maxima brake caliper mounting bracket hardware kit

('89-'99) 3rd and 4th generation Nissan Maxima brake pads

These parts all directly bolt onto the s13 with no major modifications needed. This swap retains near stock Before and after pictures of swap done on '90 240sx without abs:

Concerns worth noting:

-The brake swap will not fit anything smaller than a 15" alloy wheel. This will not clear a stamped steel wheel and drags on the caliper paralell surface.

- The stock rotor dust shield no longer clears the larger brake rotor. Modifications or removal to this are necessary for fitment. 2" deep slices with shears spaced 1.5" apart should be sufficient to allow the outside edge to be bent flat.

-The pad hangs over the edge from this setup by approximately 5mm. Although it is visually striking, it does not negatively impact braking performance or cause any reliability issues.

 * YOU CAN USE 2000-2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R 11 inch rotors instead of altima rotors and there is no gap, they work perfect and are the same size as 180sx rotors exactly. -Boyce boycelaforest@aldatas.com

The sentra SE-R Rotors are the exact same thing. There are 2 different part numbers. One is the exact same rotor as the U13U. The other is a different part number but the only difference is that the hat is painted black...THATS IT - Someone who actually knows what they're talking about Boyce is correct:
 * update***

Tried the 2001 SE-R rotors, they are same size as my old 180sx rotors and I have no gap on mine, friends car with altima rotors has gap. (verified by chad)

=300ZX (Z32/r32/jdm silvia) Brakes Swap = 300ZX Brake 4 piston Calipers and Rotors are an available swap for the stock 240SX braking system. They require the following parts:

('xx-'xx) 300zx calipers or alternative compatible replacements

('xx-'xx) Skyline calipers

('xx-'xx) Jdm s14 silvia calipers

('xx-'xx) Rotors

('xx-'xx) Pads

('xx-'xx) R32 ebrake cable (optional if rear brakes are swapped to retain optimal brake bias and brake functionality)

('xx-'xx) Master cylinder (optional if rear brakes are swapped to retain optimal brake bias)

Q45 Brake Upgrade:

Hi guys, this is AmatsuDorifuto of ImportFanatix.com Forums here to give some input of what is needed for the Infiniti Q45 brake upgrade for the 240sx.

Step 1: Purchases = A) 90 - 96 Q45 front brake calipers B) 90 - 96 Q45 front brake pads C) 90 - 96 Q45 front brake rotors

Step 2: Removal of old equipment = A) Loosen the lug nuts on the front two wheels B) Jack up the front of the car and support on jack stands C) Remove both wheels D) Remove calipers by removing the two 14mm bolts E) Remove caliper brackets by removing two 19mm bolts F) Your pads, rotors, and any other stuff will come off now.

Step 3: Installation of new equipment = Pretty simple, it's the opposite of removal.

Enjoy your new brakes! They will perform much better than stock.

=Aftermarket Brake Systems= Several aftermarket braking system upgrades are available and for sale for the nissan 240SX such as AP Racing, Wilwood, Project MU, etc.

-Below sections last updated by Tastyratz 4/5/2006 3:31pm Stock brake spec and known compatible replacements, Q45/J30 Brakes Swap,Aftermarket Brake Systems, 300ZX (Z32/r32/jdm silvia) Brakes Swap, Maxima / 180sx spec Brake Swap, Stock Brake Improvements


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Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/4 lug to 5 lug conversion

5 lug hubs allow for a wider wheel selection this is a popular upgrade among 240SX owners with 4 lug hubs. =S13= Front: 2-3hrs

Aftermarket 5 lug hubs are available from GTO/Attain. This makes swapping the front very easy. The hub and bearing are already pressed together, eliminating the need for a hydraulic press. Parts: Aftermarket wheel hubs w/ bearings 5-lug rotor (300zx if converting to larger 4 piston caliper, otherwise redrilled stock rotors or S14 rotors should work) New cotter pin Process:
 * 1) Remove wheel, brake caliper, and rotor.
 * 2) Remove the dust cover, cotter pin, and the nut cover from the hub.
 * 3) Before removing the hub nut, make sure that the threads are clean and free from debris. The nut is torqued down tight, if an impact gun is not available, you can brace the hub assembly between the lug studs with any suitable item, you will not need the studs, as there are new ones already pressed into the new hub.
 * 4) Now is a good time to clean off any rust and to remove the dust shield if you are planning on using 300ZX brakes.
 * 5) Assemble in reverse order. Torque the hub nut to 75-85 ft-lbs and replace the cotter pin.

Rear: 3-5hrs The rear requires a bit more work than the front and more time should be allowed to accomplish. Parts: S14 rear wheel bearing with flange S14 5-lug rear wheel hub (make sure to get the 5-lug hub, not all S14's have 5-lug hubs) S14 5-lug rear rotor New cotter pin Process:
 * 1) Remove wheel, brake caliper, brake rotor.
 * 2) There are 4 bolts on the back side of the hub that have to be removed to get the wheel bearing separated from the axle housing. All four can be removed without removing the axle housing, just turn the hub to gain access.
 * 3) Remove the cotter pin, nut cap, and wheel bearing lock nut.
 * 4) If you are lucky you will be able to remove the wheel bearing and hub assembly. Chances are though that the wheel bearing is seated very well inside the axle housing. If this is the case, the axle housing will have to be removed.
 * 5) The suspension links need to be disconnected, this includes the damper, lower control arm, upper control arm, and the traction rod. When disconnecting the lower control arm use a ball joint separator ( not the pickle fork type) and carefully separate this joint. If the rubber boot is damaged, the ball joint will need to be replaced.
 * 6) Remove the axle from the axle housing. It is a good idea to protect the threads and the boots of the drive shaft with a cloth. Separate the drive shaft from the axle housing by tapping on the axle end with a rubber or copper mallet (never hardened steel).
 * 7) With the axle housing removed, you should be able to tap out the bearing from the back side with a rubber mallet. Be careful not to score the machined surface of the axle housing.
 * 8) *This step can be accomplished before hand* Take your new hub and bearing to a local machine or auto shop (or a good friend with a hydraulic press) and have the two pressed together.
 * 9) Clean the axle housing of all rust. Now might also be a good time to install new bushings, as it is almost all apart anyway.
 * 10) * An alternate rear hub removal solution for those stubborn hubs is to...
 * 11) ** remove the four bolts on the back of the hub axle housing.
 * 12) ** remove axle nut and washer.
 * 13) ** unbolt the control arms from the rear suspension housing with the exception of the lower control arm...leave it bolted to the housing.
 * 14) ** unbolt the rear shock from the housing.
 * 15) ** lean the housing forward and remove the axle spindle from the hub.
 * 16) ** at this point you should have the hub still pressed into the housing and the housing still bolted to the lower control arm.
 * 17) ** lean the housing forward towards you, careful not to put too much stress on the ball joint.
 * 18) ** get a large hammer (BFH) and distribute several well placed blows on the back of the hub while holding the housing with your other hand.
 * 19) ** the hub should simply pop out.
 * 20) ** Warning, it is possible to ruin the hub you're trying to remove with this method. The hub will come out but could be unusable afterwards.  Since you are replacing it anyway who cares, it's only a 4 lug hub
 * 21) ** Continue steps 10 and beyond.
 * 22) The new hub and bearing assembly should slide nicely into the axle housing, if it does not, you can "clean up" the axle housing with some fine emery cloth.
 * 23) Torque the 4 bolts that connect the hub assembly to the axle housing to 58-72 ft-lb.
 * 24) Re-install the axle housing, don't forget to re-install the axle in the housing, taking care to protect the threads.
 * 25) Torque values for the suspension components are: RUCA- 57-72 ft-lb, RLCA- 52-64 ft-lb, traction rod- 57-72 ft-lb, Damper- 65-80ft-lb. All final torque values should be accomplished with the vehicle on the ground. (Good luck)
 * 26) Install the wheel bearing lock nut and bearing, torque to 152-203 ft-lb, install nut cap and new cotter pin.
 * 27) Install new brake rotor.
 * 28) It is a good idea to check the wheel bearing axial end play. It should be less than .05mm or .0020in

=S14=


text:
User talk:213.78.79.40

What is nang
This module seems useless. You can mess around in the Sandbox, please do not create new useless modules. --Kernigh 23:11, 28 March 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:213.78.79.40


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Chassis Strengthening

Chassis Strengthening adds rigidity to the chassis.

Chassis Bracing Several modifications may be done to the 240sx to strengthen the chassis.

Strut Bars Strut bars are designed to make a monocoque or unibody chassis design stronger and much more rigid than from how it was built in the factory. Most strut bars are commonly found on a Mac Pherson strut system chassis car. Strut bars prevent what is known as chassis flex from occurring and allowing the monocoque or unibody chassis from twisting or creating torsion due to horizontal movement in the strut towers. Strengthening the strut towers allows the chassis to stabilize under harder and stronger G forces making it much more superior to the common factory suspension.

Fender Braces These stiffen up the front by providing a strong link between the bulkhead and just past the firewall. This can help increase overall chassis rigidity making your front end stiffer, and turn in, the steering response is better. However, there have been reports that these can dial in understeer.

Tension Rod Braces The tension rod mounts tend to be thin and flex substantially, so a form of reinforcement in that area produces noticeable results. Using a Nismo power brace will replace the mounts with a permanently welded bar and plate reinforcements. There are also other replacements that include adjustable bars which don't replace the mounts. Examples such as the Powertrix tension rod brace. Additional T/c rod brace solutions include Tanabe, Nismo, C-Tune, Cusco, etc. These bars are a guaranteed performance increaser. There is some ambiguity about the over/under steer tendencies so an adjustable bar can be useful there.

C-Pillar Bars The s13 hatch in particular has a fair amount of flex in the c-pillar area due to the extensive size of the rear opening. A viable upgrade would be a c-pillar reinforcement bar that bolts to the rear seatbelt mounts. It should be noted that the mounts on the s13 Zenki ('89-'90) are more towards the glass and the s13 Chuki ('91-'94) hatchback seatbelt mounts are parallel. A solid metal bar may be economically produced by measuring the distance between the 2 points and drilling mounting holes for this model.

Note: These bracings are produced as well for coupes, but in those instances tend to mainly just be cosmetic since its not a weak point for them.

Lower Rear Tie Bar Connects rear lower control arm to the center of the rear sub-frame to help stiffen the chassis. They are a good thing, but the difference is very minute. It is minor and considered more of a cosmetic part than a functional one. This should be last on your list if at all.

Misc. Chassis Bracing Other options such as ladder bars, drivetrain tunnel bracing, lower shock tie bars, and floor bars are also available, but do not produce as much of a noticeable gain as the parts mentioned above. These aren't quite popular as they tend to require custom fabbing instead of them being a straight bolt-on affair.

=Roll Cage= Keep in mind that if you are going to add a cage you need to pay attention to the type of material and construction (I.E. cold rolled steel, chromoly, etc) If you are serious enough to put in a cage you probably compete with your car in different classes. Keep in mind that there are minimum requirements to compete in certain classes. A cage suitable for your local drag track might not be acceptable as a GT3 class car, or an SCCA competition.

Custom Made
A custom built roll cage is usually built to fill a requirement in a specific racing class. Roll cage guidelines for different classes can be found here (Insert Links)

Prefab
Several companies produce roll cages for the 240sx such as Autopower and Cusco. You can get a cage as simple as a 4 point and as complicated as 8 points premade (as many as you want when custom)

/Roll Cage Reviews/


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Weight Reduction

Weight reduction increases power-to-weight ratio and can improve all aspects of how you 240SX performs. There are 2 major ways to reduce the weight of your 240SX: Removal of unnessecary items and replacement of stock items with lighter parts =Removal of Unnecessary Items= getting rid of stuff that you don't need is a great way to reduce weight in your 240SX

Weight Reduction Guide

Please contribute by weighing and inputting the actual weight of the part. Please do not put approximate or "usual average" weights but accurately obtained data. (many S13 part weights courtesey of mysportscar.com)

S13:
headunit, speakers, and rear speaker brackets - 15.4lbs

driver and passenger door panels - 11.8lbs

plastic backseat panels - 5.0lbs

plastic B-pillar panels to back - 3.0lbs

back seats - 20.8lbs

hatch wall carpeting, plastic rear speaker panels, and rear floor mats - 20.6lbs rear wiper, motor, grommet, and blade - 3.0lbs jack tools, jack cover cardboard, random gray foam pads - 6.4lbs

rear strut covers, miscellaneous brackets & stuff - 2.8lbs

shift boot & panel - 0.6lbs

hatch area carpeting - 3.2lbs

A/C compressor, condenser, reservoir, & some piping - 29.2lbs

windshield wiper reservoir (full of fluid), bracket, & associated tubing - 9.0lbs

PAIR valve, actuator, bracket, and fasteners - 3.0lbs

sound deadening (Round 1) *box was 1 pound* - 10.8lbs

main carpet (from floorboard to rear seats) - 11.8lbs

glovebox - 3.2lbs gauge cluster bezel - 1.6lbs automatic seatbelts & lapbelt assemblies - 20.0lbs

power antenna - 2.0lbs headliner, reading lamps, and shades - 4.0lbs miscellaneous plastic pieces - 3.6lbs plastic passenger floorboard panel (under glovebox) - 1.6lbs center console - 3.0lbs

ABS unit mounting bracket - 3.2lbs ABS unit - 15.8lbs

PS resevoir - 2.0lbs PS line - 1.4lbs fuel catch can & bracket - 1.8lbs HICAS solenoid - 6.4lbs rear HICAS rack - 10.8lbs rear HICAS distribution block - 5.2lbs clutch loop - 1.41bs battery tray - 1.2lbs SE exhaust & cat - 41.0lbs

sound deadening - 29lbs

spare tire & wheel - 28.0lbs

firewall mat - 18.8lbs

sunroof glass - 11.5lbs

foam layer on dashboard - 5lbs

Total of pounds lost - 377.9

S14:
Spare tire - 25 lb

Jack - 4 lb

Rear Seats - 15 lb

Hood - 38 lb (OEM Zenki metal hood)

Front Seats - 21 lb

Door Panels - 12 lb

Plastic Trim (front seats back)- 2 lb

Plastic Trim (front seats forward)- 2 lb

Front Bumper - 7 lb

Rear Bumper - 6 lb

Fenders - 6 lb

15" Alloy wheels (without tires) - 97 lb

16" Alloy wheels (without tires) - 105 lb

Trunk - 20.4 lb (includes center light garnish, third brake light plastic housing with wire harness, and trunk latch/striker)

Drive Shaft - 19 lb

Stock Electric Sunroof - 24 lb

=Replacing Stock Items with Lighter Aftermarket Parts= Stock Seat (S14 Base cloth) vs Racing Seat(Bride Zeta III) - (36-12) 24 lbs

Stock Hood (S13 180sx) vs CF Hood (S13 Versus Silvia) - (40-15) 25lbs

Stock S13 front bumper - 6 lbs

Stock S13 front bumper with steel reinforcement pieces, lip spoiler and its braces - 15 lbs

Stock Battery vs Lightweight battery (Genesis) - (41-13) 28 lbs

Stock Wheels (steelies) vs Racing Wheels (Volk TE37's 16x8) (28-13) 15 lbs (per wheel)

Stock Drive Shaft vs Aluminum One Piece Drive Shaft - (19-11) 8 lbs

Stock Drive Shaft vs Carbon Fiber Once Piece Drive Shaft - (19.8-8.5) 11.3 lbs reduction

Stock flywheel vs Prolite flywheel - (22-11) 11 lbs reduction

 * All modifications to drivetrain components have an added bonus of freeing up horsepower lost by rotating weight


text:
User talk:68.196.38.182

"Show preview"
Welcome to Wikibooks!

Some advice: we have a "Show preview" button. You do not need to click "Save page" every time; "Show preview" will show you what your changes will look like. If you always use "save page", it unnecessarily fills up both Special:Recentchanges and the history of the page that you edit. Thanks, --Kernigh 23:28, 28 March 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:68.196.38.182


text:
User talk:67.95.205.162

"French: Websites"
On a (now deleted) page called "French: Websites", you wrote 'French Online Lessons'. I have no idea what book this page is for or how anyone would actually find your page. --Kernigh 23:33, 28 March 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:67.95.205.162


text:
Urban Calligraphy/Intro

''Welcome to NYC, where, around every corner, there is something on the wall. Each bend you turn there is another piece sprayed or written on the wall. They all vary: KEZ1...SUBJECT...TKZ...You watch people turn their heads in disgust as they look at this vandalism.''

I turn and smile at it.

Welcome to the world of graffiti. However, before you turn your head from this page, know this:

If Leonardo da Vinci had painted Mona Lisa on his neighbor's wall, then they would have turned their heads in disgust. But it was a professional canvas painting, and is now famous. But, due to the massive abuse of spray paint on walls, any form of calligraphy that has arrows, dots, stars, and fast curves in it is looked at with disgust. If anyone did that to my house, I'd get them locked up for it.

But as an artform, it's beautiful.

What is "graff"?

title: Urban Calligraphy/Intro


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Engine Swaps/KA24E to KA24DE

This section is for people who have a 1989 or 1990 240SX and want to install a later model KA24DE. Before we get to each of the engines, here is the car prep that needs to be done.

-The accelerator cable needs to be changed. The sohc cable is shorter and doesn't have enough travel. I have heard that people have stretched it across the engine and when I tried that it held the throttle plate open. Maybe it can be done, but it will look like crap.

-The power steering lines need to be changed over. The s13 lines work better, but with a little bit of finesse (adjusting) I was able to make s14 p/s lines work in the s13 coupe. The s13 dohc p/s reservoir will bolt right on the strut tower. The s14 reservoir doesn't fit quite as well, but can be made to work. If using a s14 engine, the ps pumps have different connections for the ps lines. I.E. If you get a s14 engine and want to use that ps pump, you will need the s14 lines. If you are using a s13 engine and are using that pump you will have to get s13 ps lines. The lines won't interchange with the pumps, but the pumps will interchange on the engines. (this will be posted again further down).

-The tachometer will need to be changed out to a dohc s13 unit. The signal is different between the two. The tach can be removed from the cluster, or the whole cluster can be changed. (The s14 tach won't work, because the physical size of the tach is different.)

-The water temperature sensor from the SOHC engine needs to be used. For some reason the resistance is different. If you use the stock sensor from the DOHC engine, it will register on the gauge as being higher than with the SOHC unit.

-Go ahead and remove the coil assembly from the car. The SOHC one won't work on the DOHC engine. I'll explain more on this further down.

S13 DOHC engine
To swap a S13 DOHC, all the above needs to be done. -Use the coil setup from the DOHC donor car.

-The engine wiring harness and ECU will need to be replaced with one for the S13 DE engine. The dash connector will need to be cut off the SOHC engine harness (where it meets the dash harness), and soldered to the DOHC engine harness in the same location. There will be wires that are left floating so don't worry. All the wires that need to be connected will be color matched. For example: just put red to red, and white to white, etc.

-If using a stock exhaust system the down pipe from SOHC will bolt to the S13 exhaust manifold there won't be any issues. The EGR will work as well.

-The MAFS from the DOHC car will need to be used. The SOHC's MAFS won't work with the DOHC's ECU. If you want to change the plug you can even use a S14 mafs, it has a bigger opening. NOTE*** I haven't done this! I am basing this on the fact the SAFC II shows both MAFS to be the same type. (Type 5 in the SAFC library)

-The heater core hose locations are the same and will work between each.

-The S13 PS pump has to have S13 PS lines. S14 PS lines won't bolt up without modification.

95 s14 DOHC engine
-The 95 engines have the same electrical connectors on the intake as the s13 dohc engines. You can use a s13 dohc wiring harness and ecu with no problems.

-If you use the s13 engine harness you'll need to change the distributor to a s13 dohc unit and add the coil assembly. (All s14 distributors have internal coil).

-If you use the 95 s14 harness there are a lot more wires to weed through. You will also need to make sure you update to a s14 tranny if you want to keep the ecu happy. Because the crank angle sensor is located on the tranny bell housing. The s13 tranny doesn't have a provision for the crank angle sensor. If you don't care about the check engine light, then use a s13 tranny and don't worry about the crank angle sensor.

Boats and hoes*

-If wanting to use a 96+ harness and ecu, then all the sensors have to be changed including the tps. Best thing is to not use a 96+ harness and ecu.

-Regardless of which harness/ecu combo the mafs will need to be updated to a dohc unit. Easiest thing is to use the mafs that fits the plug (minus the sohc unit).

-The egr tube will need to be changed because the angle and placement to where it connects with the exhaust manifold is in a different location between s13 and s14. I don't know if a s14 after market header will have clearance issues on a s13. Best thing to do is to change the exhaust manifold/header over to a s13 unit and change the egr tube or eliminate it altogether. (I don't condone this, I'm merely pointing out the possibilities.)

-The heater core hoses are different sizes between the s14 engine and s13 chassis. You will have to rig something up to work. The location of the outlets on the engine is different as well. On the s13 engine/intake plenum they come out the back of the engine. On the s14 engine/intake plenum they come out the side underneath the plenum. Break vacuum line will have to be extend about 3-4 inches because the sohc is too short.

-The s14 ps pump has to have s14 ps lines. s13 ps lines won't bolt up without modification.

==96+ s14 DOHC engine==

-The easiest thing to do here is replace the intake manifold with a s13 manifold and electronics. And then just follow directions above.

-And again the 96+ engine harness and ecu can be used, but the wiring is more involved. With the exception of the engine harness and electrical connectors, everything else swaps just like above.

-The s14 ps pump has to have s14 ps lines. s13 ps lines won't bolt up without modification.


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Engine Swaps/SR20DET

The SR20DET is the most commonly swapped engine into the 240SX Chassis. The Availibility of the engine and the relative ease of the swap make this a popular choice for 240SX owners who want more power.

Specs and Versions
SR = Block

20 = 2.0L Displacement

D = Dohc E = Electronic Fuel Injection

T = Turbocharger

SR20DET Red Top

2.0L DOHC Turbo

Turbo Type: T25

Compressor A/R: 0.80

Injector Size: 370cc

Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 86.0mm

Displacement: 1998cc

Performance: SR20DET:

Power (HP): 208@ 6,000 rpm

Torque (TQ): 204@ 4000 rpm

Compression Ratio: 8.5:1

Speed Limiter:180 Kmh -112 mph

Stock Boost: 7 psi

ECU: 62 (redtop) OR E5 (blacktop). 63 (automatic) will also work.

MAFS: 89-90 240sx mafs works. MAF is a 52F00 for SR20DET. the 40F00 from the 89/90 240SX works, but resolution is off a bit. Not the same power/drive ability potential as factory SR MAFS

Rev Limit: 7500rpm (no need to really go over 7000)

The SR20DET is available in several different stock forms ranges in power from between 205HP and 250HP.

S13 "Redtop" - Came from S13 Silvias and 180sx 1990-94 (Garrett T25 turbo). Easily identifiable by bright red valve cover. Equipped with 370cc injectors and a side mount intercooler. Uses 'Skinny' O2 sensor. With raised boost to the s13 Redtop motor can push 250hp safely with no modifications. Maximum Safe boost on the stock turbo is 13psi-15psi. The Engine Should produce 230-250rwhp on safe boost. With a larger turbo (e.g. GT2871r), bigger MAF (e.g. Z32 N62) and upgraded fuel delivery (e.g. 255lph pump, 740cc injectors) 375-430 can be had on stock internals (yes, It's actually true).

S13 "Blacktop" - Came from 180sx's 1994-1998 (Garrett T25 turbo). Most of the same physical construction as S13 "Redtop", with black valve cover and additional cooling fins on the front. Uses slightly different engine management configuration (higher bit fuel map) and uses a different 'Fat' O2 sensor'''. The pistons are made from a denser aluminum for higher strength. the port design on the heads are more open to allow more air flow. Maximum Safe boost on the stock turbo is 13psi-15psi. The Engine should produce 230-250rwhp on safe boost. With a larger turbo (e.g. GT2871r), bigger MAF (e.g. Z32 N62) and upgraded fuel delivery (e.g. 255lph pump, 740cc injectors,cams) 375-430 can be had on stock internals (yes, It's actually true)

S14 - 94-98 Silvias (also referred to as a notch top by some to avoid confusion with the S14 and S13 "blacktop") - Variable Timing Control aka VTC was introduced. Equipped with 370cc injectors and sidemount intercooler. Intake manifold is significantly different from S13 SR20DET, and valve cover is black with a large lump on the forward portion. Maximum Safe boost on the stock turbo is 13psi-15psi. The stock engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost using stock turbo. Upgrading turbo, fuel and rest of need parts will yield 300-375.

S15 - 2000+ Silvias. (Garrett Ball Bearing GT28R turbo and 6 speed transmission) Equipped with 480cc injectors and larger sidemount intercooler. Valve cover is black with a large lump on the forward portion. The easiest way to tell if you have an S15 motor and not an S14 is the ECU plug. Also the A/C compressor part number. other than that, the S15's front cooling fins on head surface appear to have been sanded off. The stock engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost using stock turbo. Upgrading turbo, fuel and rest of need parts will yield 300-375.

===Fluid Capacities=== Oil(with filter change): 3 1/4 qt (3.7 L)

Cooling System (including reservoir): 5 1/2 qt (6.2 L)

Manual Transmission: *GL-4* 4 1/4 pt (2.4 L)

Differential carrier gear oil: *GL-5* 3 1/8 pt (1.8 L)

Automatic Transmission: 7 qt (7.9 L)

Power steering 3/4 qt (0.9 L) ATF recommended

Required Items
If you are swapping into a chassis that had the KA24E, and want to retain power steering, DOHC power steering reservoir and lines are needed. Keep the KADE power steering pump as they are interchangeable if you have the SR20det pulley and bracket.

An aftermarket electric fuel pump(z32 or sr20 stock pump).

A twin cam 91' and above cluster for s13 models due to Rpm reading not working with a pre 91' cluster (how to tell the 2 apart?... pre 91'reads 115mph post 91' reads 110mph.

If you are swapping from auto-manual, you will need the manual driveshaft or a custom one piece.
 * Drive shaft lengths differ with ABS(shorter) and Non ABS(longer), earlier base models may require separating drive shafts and using half auto/manual to fit.

Custom wiring is required as well. You can either splice the KA harness with the SR (which can get hectic at times) or purchase a pre-made harness from a provider or specialist such as Wiring Specialties or run a standalone such as a Painless harness.

1
-Relieve fuel pressure. Do this by removing the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay, start the car, let it die, crank the motor over a few more times. -Drain all engine and transmission fluids. Be sure to drain the coolant from the block if you don't want coolant all over your work area. - Disconnect battery. - Remove anything in the way, items like intake piping, fan shroud, and radiator. - Disconnect exhaust.

2
-Disconnect all harness connections and then plug everything back in the other engine.

Upgrades
Greddy Oil Pan - Worthwhile upgrade. Baffled interior and extra port for temp sensor is very nice.

Greddy Oil Catch Can - Nothing Special, just a catch can!

Greddy Pulley Set - Lightweight aluminum, blue in color. Easy install.

Greddy VSPL Intercooler Kit - Must modify or remove front bumper support.

Koyo Aluminum Radiator - Consider this upgrade when doing the swap.

HKS SSQV - Universal application, extremely loud when not recirculated (depending in insert), pull type so it wont leak under vac.''It is not recommended to run an open BOV, without the aid of some type of fuel controller. Some people have had success from tightening down the BOV (resulting in the BOV not opening within cruising RPM range), but in general it causes the car to run rich due to the air that has been metered is being dumped to the atmosphere. Since the ECU thinks the engine will be receiving that mass of air, the amount of fuel is still injected into the engine even though that mass of air is missing which in thus causes it to run rich temporarily. (not really necessary as this costs extra money, those on a budget should consider putting the MAF sensor after the BOV i.e. in between the BOV and the block itself, its probably a better idea anyways).

Nismo Thermostat - Another part to help with keeping the engine temps down. This is not necessary for most SR owners that do not track their cars for the Nismo unit opens at a lower temp than the OEM one.

Greddy Airnix Air Filter - Foam cone style with 2 different layers of foam. The inner is denser than the outer for better filtration. Good product. (Non-oiled filter recommended for MAF-operated cars)

Samco Silicone Radiator Hoses - More reliable than standard hoses because silicone can stand up to temperatures better than the standard rubber hoses.

Flex-a-Lite Dual 12" Fans - Extremely nice fans. I have them hooked up with a painless wiring kit which turns them on at 190 and off at 170 and it takes them less than a minute to do that.  Very impressive and fits perfectly on the S13 SR20 Koyo radiator. Or a set of Altima Electric Fans, from the '93-'97 Nissan Altima, these fans have a higher CFM rating than Flex-a-Lite and are cheaper to boot. You can pick a good set with shroud for $40-$60. They wire up just as easy and the shroud allows for more air flow. E-fans are a common upgrade. The stock clutch fan is prone to slippage, and robs power (up to 20hp), E-fans are a much better choice. (FAL's often burn up if not wired with an independent relay for each fan. do not wire the fans both through one relay - Taylor Durdan)'''

Power Enterprise V-belts - the best belts that I've ever used. They hold up strong

OEM USDM Replacement Parts
Some parts Courtsey of Kazuo - Zilvia.net

Oil filter (S13 SR20DET)- 91-94 Sentra SE-R Part number: 15208-53J0A

Oil filter (S14 SR20DET)- 95 Sentra SE-R/200SX Part Number: 15208-65F0A

Fuel Filter - 1990-1996 300ZX TT

Upper injector o-ring - 7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (small/upper)...

Lower injector o-ring - 7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (big/lower)

o2 sensor (S13 SR20DET REDTOP)- '87 300ZX Turbo AKA Skinny Type.(requires splicing of harnesses. 300zx is 3 wire square plug, SR is 3 wire linear plug. Stock redtop 02 sensor was never produced in US market)

o2 Sensor (S14 SR20DET BLACKTOP)- 95 300ZX TT

Exhaust Manifold Gasket (Red Top)- 91-94 Sentra SE-R

4 Hole Turbo Manifold gasket / 5 Hole Turbo Extension Gasket - 91-96 300ZX TT (Z32)

Fuel Injectors - 91-96 Z32 300ZX TT (purple plugs; 370cc)

MAF - 89-90 240SX

Timing Chain Kit - 91 B13 Sentra SE-R

Belts (PS, AC, alt) - Gates K050370 Alt., K040345 PS & most AC (Dayco belts - 5050370 ALT, 5040345 PS)

Spark Plugs - 91 Sentra SE-R (USE ONLY NGK Iridium/Platinum BKR6E or BKR7E gapped to .028 (upgraded turbo) - .032 (Stock turbo)

Water Pump - JDM ONLY!

Head Gasket - JDM ONLY! (can be ordered from GReddy)

IACV Gasket - JDM ONLY!

Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor - '91-94 B13 Sentra SE-R and KADE Temp Sensor

Throttle Position Sensor - '91-'94 B13 Sentra SE-R

Water Temperature Sensor - Sentra (equal to year of you motor)

Front and rear main seal(Red Top) - 93 sentra SER

Stock sr clutch disk - 89 Nissan Maxima

Nissan Part Numbers
Oil filter for S13: 15208-53J0A

Connecting Rod Bearing: 12111-1N500

Crankshaft Bearing: 12207-60J00

Front main seal: 13510-53J00

Rear Main seal: 12279-0M300

Piston Ring set: 12033-53J10

Exhaust Manifold Gasket (S13): 14036-53J10

Exhaust Manifold Stud: 14065-75F00

Intake Manifold Gasket (S14): 14035-5U000

Intake Manifold Gasket (S13): 14035-53J00

Oil Strainer Gasket: 15053-1E400

Intake Valve: 13201-1E711

Exhaust Valve (Not found at Nissan): 13202-53J01

Shim: 13229-53J00

Tensionner Gasket: 13079-2J200

Intake Valve Seal: 13207-84A00

Exhaust Valve Seal: 13207-53F00

Intake/Exhaust Valve Seats: 13205-53J00

Valve cover gasket (S13): 13270-52F00

Spark Plug Well Gasket: 13271-52F00


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Engine Swaps/CA18DET

The CA18DET is another possible swap into the nissan 240SX.

Specs and Versions
The RWD CA18DET can be sourced from two different JDM chassis, the 1987 - 1988 Nissan Silvia S12 GT-X and the 1989 and 1990 S13 Silvia or 180SX.

The 1.8 L CA18DET produces 175 hp (130 kW) and 168 ft.lbf (228 Nm). It has a DOHC aluminum head with 16 valves. It has a Garrett T25 (.60 A/R), Multiport Fuel Injection, Bore is 83mm, and stroke is 83.6mm. This near square design, coupled with the head design, allows CA18DETs to revv well beyond 7,000RPMs, even in stock trim.


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Engine Swaps/RB20DET

Swap Guide
The original items from the 240sx will work. All you have to worry about is the wiring harness, exchanging of cross members and steering rack.

For a wiring harness you can either splice the KA harness with the RB (which can get hectic at times) or purchase a pre-made harness from a provider or specialist such as Wiring Specialties or run a standalone such as a Painless harness.


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Engine Swaps/RB25DET

Specs and Versions
RB25DET

Displacement: 2498cc BoreXStroke: 86mm X 71.7mm 250PS or 246.58HP @ 5600rpm 216.90 ft/lbs @ 4800rpm Compression Ratio: 9.0:1

Required Items

 * Engine R33(S1 or S2)
 * Transmission
 * Use of the RB25DET transmission is highly suggested since it is much stronger and specific to this exact engine. RB26 owners commonly use this transmission since it bolts directly up, and can handle high torque loads.  This is very similar to the Z32 N/A internally which helps when sourcing parts.
 * Engine's accompanying ECU
 * Make sure you receive the proper ECU to match your engine (S1 & S2 - they _ARE_ different)
 * A'Pexi Power FC stand-alone can also be used.
 * Engine's harness
 * Your chassis' harness
 * Custom wiring is required. You can either splice the KA harness with the RB (which can get hectic at times) or purchase a pre-made harness from a provider or specialist such as Wiring Specialties or run a standalone such as a Painless harness.
 * Clutch - Z32 N/A
 * Flywheel - RB 25 flywheels are specific and are not interchangeable with any other engines. Also do not be fooled by thinking you can use a flywheel from the 25DET Auto.  This will _not_ work.
 * Modified 5-speed driveshaft, or aftermarket
 * McKinney Motorsports, Top Hat Performance, Shaftmasters
 * R33 cross-member or aftermarket motor mounts
 * McKinney Motorsports, Top Hat Performance, Syko Performance
 * 6-cylinder calibrated tach
 * LSauto
 * Tach recalibration using the stock DOHC (S13-DE or S14; NOT SOHC 89-90 "Pignose")
 * Modified Downpipe
 * Depends on whether or not you use the R33 x-memeber and which chassis. For the S14, a custom one may be needed, but results vary depending on the mounts you've gone with. SR20 downpipes are commonly used with the stock turbo since they both share a 2.75" flange.  In my instance (S13-DE with R33 cross-member) I had to lengthen the 'down' area of the SR20 downpipe approximately 2", but it cleared the steering shaft by about 1/4".


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Engine Swaps/RB26DETT

Required Items
RB26DETT, RB25 RWD Transmission, RB into S-Chasis mounts: engine and transmission (McKinney, ISR) and Downpipe

Step by Step
In this web booklet, I will provide some insight on what it takes to complete this swap. Do not believe the rumors surrounding the motor's sticker price being high. There are many places where you can purchase the engine for around 3-4k. There are some hidden costs that come with this swap. You will not be able to buy the engine and directly swap in, because I am comparing it to the SR20. The RB26, unlike any other swap, requires a different tranny(transmission) than the one your clip comes with. If you just get the motor, then you are better off spending a million dollars on doughnuts. The clip will carry everything you do not want to buy. The RB26 swap is a great swap, but parts are not cheap. Most of the time, you can even get breaks with the deal. You will need to purchase a RB25 transmission. The transmissions cost somewhere in between $900-1100. Anything more than that is a rip off. Wiring is a big issue and if you are not a wiring god, then this is for you. I suggest sending the harness to Mckinney Motor Sports. They are a very reputable shop; dealing with thousands of 240s every year. I would also suggest buying their wonderful motor mounts. Sometimes you can get a set on Ebay, but Mckinney made the mold for them. The wiring cost about $400 for the S13 and $450 for the S14. The motor mounts cost $625 (roughly), but are well worth the money. Now that you have that information, the rest should be your basic swap setup. There is no banging or cutting required. I encourage the RB25 swap because of the price, but if you must do RB26, then I suggest looking this over. Here is the web page for Mckinney Motor Sports- www.mckinneymotorsports.com. Happy Building! :)


text:
Nissan 240SX Performance Modification/Engine Swaps/VQ30DE

VQ30DE
FWD, Comes out of a 95-01 Maxima. The Intake manifold will point towards the firewall, so modification will be necessary. The 00-01 Maxima with a VQ30DE-k has an improved intake manifold and a better power band. It is plastic and thus easier to modify. Tend to be found pretty cheap. 95-99: 190hp 205tq; 00-01: 222hp 217tq

VQ30DET
RWD, Comes out of a JDM Cima or Cedric. Turbocharged version of the Maxima engine with stronger rods, pistons, and a beefier crank (50mm rod journal vs 48mm). The intake manifold is setup for RWD, but the stock turbo and header setup may require modification. Most have changed the setup before the swap. Uses the same sensors as the Maxima engine and but will require different tuning. Rare to find. 270hp 280tq

FWD VQ35DE
Comes out of a 02+ Maxima, Altima, Murano, Quest, and others. Same long block as the RWD, but different motor mounts, oil pan, and intake manifold. Custom motor mounts are required as with the other FWD engines, but most other parts will swap directly over from the RWD VQ35s. Rated at around 255hp 265tq, but after the manifold swap and some modifications it will be the same as the RWD

350Z and G35 VQ35DE
Includes the "Rev up" and regular 287hp DE from the 03-06 350Z and G35 engines. Very little modification to fit in. More expensive than the FWD versions. "regular": 287hp 274tq "Rev up": 300hp 260tq

VQ35HR
07+ G35 Sedan or 350Z. Very rare and expensive. Uses a different transmission bolt pattern from the other VQ35s, but believed to be the same as the VQ40DE. Lots of top end. Revs to 7500. 306hp 268tq

VQ40DE
05+ Pathfinder, Xterra, and Frontier. More rare and expensive than the VQ35 and believed to have a taller block. More low end torque based. Uses a different transmission bolt pattern from the VQ35s, but believed to be the same as the VQ35HR. 261hp 281tq

Required Items
Engine - 350z, Maxima, Altima, G35

Tranny - 6 speed from the 350z, G35

ECU - 350z, Maxima, Altima, G35 or standalone (Many use the MegaSquirt II standalone or a stock VQ35 or Maxima VQ30 ECU). If using a Nissan ECU you'll need the key, NATS module (mounts around the key cylinder) and ECU out of the same vehicle in order for the ECU to let the car start - a security feature on most new Nissans (if you get them out of separate vehicles you'll need to take your car to Nissan to have them program the ECU to the key) What all else will be necessary to run a stock Z/G ECU remains to be seen!

Radiator - I'm using the stock one.

Coolant pipe on back of heads - Z/G works best as it hugs the back of the motor tighter giving you better firewall clearance and puts the rad inlet on the RH side of the engine bay which works out muuuuch better.

Intake manifold - Z/G (all 3 pieces) for FWD VQ35, custom built or a modified Maxima/Altima unit

Exhaust manifolds - Z/G, the LH must be modified slightly to clear the steering shaft. This also depends on how low you mount the motor, the lower you put it the worse the clearance problem is. I had to hammer in the LH header about 1/4" or so.

Throttle body - depends mostly on what ECU your running and what intake manifold, I'm using a modified Z unit (converted to cable operation) on a Z manifold.

Motor mounts - custom like me if you're using a FWD motor, if using a RWD Z/G motor their motor mounts just might work as is.

Shifter - Z shifter on shortened Z linkage, as the shifter would normally be much farther back than the stock shifter.

Drive shaft - custom made consisting of a Z/G front yoke and your stock rear joint with a custom length tube. Either the 5AT front yoke or the 6MT front yoke will work, I'm using a 5AT unit.

Oil pan - RWD Z/G upper and Z/G/Maxima/Altima lower (metal pan) is necessary for crossmember clearance

Throttle position sensor - Depends again on what intake manifold, throttle body, and ECU you are using. I'm using a modified Z/G TPS

Tranny mount - stock 240 mount flipped 180 degrees with custom spacer made out of some hard rubber

Reference: http://www.engineswaptech.com/forums/thread/151.aspx


text:
Cookbook:Spaghetti and Meatballs

| Cuisine of The United States | Pasta Recipes

Most food historians agree that the union of spaghetti with meatballs is an American culinary invention with Italian roots. In the vast majority of cases, Old World-Italian cuisine calls for mixing heavy meat sauces with fettuccine and tagliatelle but not spaghetti.

Pasta

 * 3 tbsp salt
 * 1 ½ gallons (5.76 liters) water
 * 1 pound (454 g) dry spaghetti

Meatballs

 * 2 pounds (907 g) ground chuck
 * 2 pounds (907 g) ground pork shoulder
 * 12 oz (340 g) seasoned bread crumbs
 * 1 cup (240 ml) grated Parmesan cheese or Romano cheese
 * ¾ cup (180 ml) fresh parsley, minced
 * 4 eggs
 * 1 ½ tbsp finely-minced garlic
 * ½ tsp garlic powder
 * ½ tsp onion powder
 * ½ tsp black pepper
 * ½ tsp salt
 * Olive oil
 * 3 garlic cloves

Sauce

 * ½ tsp crushed red pepper flakes
 * 4 cloves garlic, crushed or chopped
 * 1 small onion, finely chopped
 * 1 cup (240 ml) beef stock
 * 28 oz (794 g) crushed tomatoes
 * 1 handful chopped flat-leaf parsley
 * 10 leaves fresh basil, torn or thinly sliced

Procedure

 * 1) Fill your largest pot with 1½ gallons of water along with 3 tablespoons of salt. Place it over high heat on the stove.
 * 2) Combine ground meat, bread crumbs, grated cheese, minced parsley and lightly beaten eggs (add eggs one at a time while stirring ingredients together). Sprinkle with minced garlic, 2 tablespoons of olive oil and seasonings. Then mix well until everything is combined.
 * 3) Form meat mixture into meatballs, using an ice cream scoop or your hands, pressing lightly, just enough so that meat holds together, but not so much that the meat is very compressed or the meatballs will be tough and dry.
 * 4) In a heavy skillet, heat olive oil over medium low heat. Add whole garlic cloves. Turn the garlic cloves to color them on all sides, then when lightly browned, press them into the oil; as they brown, remove them.
 * 5) As soon as the oil is hot, add the meatballs to the skillet, leaving about 1½ inches between them so that they can be easily turned. Turn them often using a spatula or large spoon so that they don't stick. Make sure there is enough oil in the pan (about ½ inch). You don't need extra virgin olive oil for this—any good quality Italian olive oil will do.
 * 6) When the meatballs are browned well on all sides, remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Then add the next batch to the pan and continue until all are cooked.
 * 7) Add the pasta to the water now boiling in your pot and cook until al dente. This should take about 12 minutes.
 * 8) Add pepper flakes, garlic and finely chopped onion in the same oil you used to cook the meatballs. Sauté 5–7 minutes, until onion bits are soft. Add beef stock, crushed tomatoes, and herbs. Bring to a simmer and cook for about 10 minutes.
 * 9) Toss hot, drained pasta with a few ladles of the sauce. Turn meatballs in remaining sauce.
 * 10) Place pasta on dinner plates. Top with meatballs, sauce and extra grated cheese.

title: Cookbook:Spaghetti and Meatballs


text:
User talk:Yskyflyer

Please use my talk page on wikipedia--Yskyflyer 03:31, 29 March 2006 (UTC)

I will not be checking this page that often so if you want to leave a message just drip a not on my wikipedia talk page--Yskyflyer 21:38, 29 March 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:Yskyflyer


text:
French/Lessons/Introduction

French (Français, ) is a Romance language spoken as a first language by around 136 million people worldwide. A total of 500 million speak it as either a first, second, or foreign language. Moreover, some 200 million people learn French as a foreign language. French speaking communities are present in 56 countries and territories. Most native speakers of the language live in France, the rest live essentially in Canada, particularly the province of Quebec, with minorities in the Atlantic provinces, Ontario, and Western Canada, as well as Belgium, Switzerland, Monaco, Luxembourg, and the U.S. states of Louisiana and Maine. Most second-language speakers of French live in Francophone Africa, arguably exceeding the number of native speakers.

French is a descendant of the Latin language of the Roman Empire, as are national languages such as Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, Romanian and Catalan, and minority languages ranging from Occitan to Neapolitan and many more. Its closest relatives however are the other langues d'oïl and French-based creole languages. Its development was also influenced by the native Celtic languages of Roman Gaul and by the (Germanic) Frankish language of the post-Roman Frankish invaders.

It is an official language in 29 countries, plus the Vatican City, which form what is called, in French, La Francophonie, the community of French-speaking countries. It is an official language of all United Nations agencies and a large number of international organizations. According to the European Union, 129 million (or 26% of the Union's total population), in 27 member states speak French, of which 65 million are native speakers and 69 million claim to speak French either as a second language or as a foreign language, making it the third most spoken second language in the Union, after English and German. Twenty-percent of non-Francophone Europeans know how to speak French, totaling roughly 145.6 million people.

In addition, from the 17th century to the mid 20th century, French served as the pre-eminent international language of diplomacy and international affairs as well as a lingua franca among the educated classes of Europe. The dominant position of French language has only been overshadowed recently by English, since the emergence of the USA as a major power.

As a result of extensive colonial ambitions of France and Belgium, between the 17th and 20th centuries, French was introduced to America, Africa, Polynesia, South-East Asia, and the Caribbean.

History
During the Roman occupation of Gaul, the Latin language was imposed on the natives. This Latin language (Classic Latin) eventually devolved into what is known as Vulgar Latin, which was still very similar to Latin. Over the centuries, due to Celtic and Germanic influences (particularly the Franks), la langue d'oïl was developed. A dialect of la langue d'oïl known as le francien was the language of the court, and thus became the official language of what was to become the Kingdom of France, and later the Nation-State of France.

From medieval times until the 19th century, French was the dominant language of diplomacy, culture, administration, trade and royal courts across Europe. Due to these factors, French was the lingua franca of this time period.

French has influenced many languages world wide, including English. It is through French (or more precisely Norman, a dialect of la langue d'oïl) that English gets about one third of its vocabulary.

Extent of the language

In modern times, French is still a significant diplomatic language: it is an official language of the United Nations, the Olympic Games, and the European Union. It is also the official language of 29 countries and the Vatican City. Spoken in France, Belgium, Switzerland, Luxemburg, Lebanon, Tunisia, Morocco, Senegal, Haiti, the Ivory Coast, Madagascar, the Congo, Algeria, Niger, Mali, Burkina Faso, Togo, Gabon, the Seychelles, Burundi, Chad, Rwanda, Djibouti, Cameroon, Mauritius, and Canada (mostly in the province of Québec where it is the primary language, but it is also used in other parts of the country). All consumer product packages in Canada are required by law to have both English and French labels.

Advice on studying French
French tends to have a reputation among English speakers as hard to learn. While it is true that it poses certain difficulties to native English-speakers, it may be noted that English is also considered 'difficult' to learn, and yet we learned it without the benefit of already knowing a language. In fact, the French language can be learned in only 10 months, if only for the specific purpose of passing a standardized test, such as the Test d'Evaluation de Français. According to the Common European Framework of Reference for Languages, in order to reach the level of 'Independent User' (after completing Level B2), you must complete 400 hours of effective learning (so if you study 4 hours a week, every single week of the year, you would need two years to achieve it). Any way you look at it, learning any new language requires a long-term commitment. Remember, that like any skill, it requires a certain amount of effort. And it is likely that if you do not practice your French regularly, you will begin to forget it. Try to make French practice a part of your routine; even if it's not daily, at least make it regular.

Also remember that you are learning a new skill. Try to master the easier concepts before moving on to the more complex. We all have to add and subtract before we can do calculus. French is a complete language; thus, while this book can teach you to read and write in French, these are only half of the skills that make up fluency. A written document cannot teach much about listening to and speaking French. You must train on all of these skills, and they will then reinforce one another.

The very best way to learn French is to visit France or another French-speaking country. This allows you to start with a clean slate, as babies do. However, since most of us are unwilling or unable to take that step, the next best option is immersion. If you are serious about learning French, a period of immersion (during which you live in a Francophone culture) is a good idea once you have some basic familiarity with the language. If you can't travel to a French-speaking country, then try listening to French-language programs on the radio, TV, or the Internet. Rent or buy French-language movies (many American and U.K. movies have a French language option). Pay attention to pronunciation. Grab a French speaker you meet and talk to him or her in French. Listen, speak, and practice. Read French newspapers and magazines. Google's news page, which links to French-language news stories, is an excellent source that will enrich your vocabulary.

Written versus modern spoken French
While the French written language is highly standardized, and hasn’t changed much in over two hundred years, the same cannot be said of the spoken language. This book, like all French training material, is oriented towards the written language. The speaking examples are straight from the standardized written language. If you were to become an expert in this French, you would probably be completely confused when you arrive in a French speaking country. Unlike the written language, the spoken language is very dynamic. The French people would not readily understand you, and you would not understand them. You can picture in your mind, a person learning English from a two hundred year old book, and coming to your town and saying "Hast thou" or "Wherefore art thou."

The reason written French is stressed in learning (Schools and Internet courses), is that you can go from this standardized language to modern spoken French much easier than English to spoken French, and then going backwards to learning written French.

A simple example is: Je ne comprends pas (I don't understand). For a business person (not wanting to sound too plebeian) this would be spoken as: Jeun comprends pas, with the Je ne joined together. But most people on the street simplify this even further. The ne is deemed redundant and falls by the wayside, and the hard Je sound is reduced to a sh sound: shcomprends pas. Another example might be Il ne fait pas … (he/it doesn’t…) resulting in y fay pa … (ee-fay-pah), or Il n'y a pas … becoming yapa … (yah-pah…).

French is a language that is read, spoken, and sung. Each has different rules. Lyric and Poetry have pronunciation rules that are different than the written, and spoken French has no rules in comparison. Learning written French is only step one, and modern spoken French is your step two. This book is for learning written French.

What should I learn first?
Many courses of language study assume you are going there for vacation, and so begin their lessons with common survival phrases that people use. There is some of that in this book, but consider that verbs are what makes a language. There are six verbs in French that, when memorized, will give you a head start when moving on to learning sentences.

The distinction between a phrase and a sentence is that a phrase does not have a subject or verb. This is why they are easy to learn, and a main part of vacation-type books. You can't go wrong with a phrase. Unlike a phrase, a sentence is a grammatical unit. You will need nouns, pronouns, adjectives (words that modify nouns), adverbs (words that modify verbs and adjectives), etc. A sentence includes a subject (what/whom the sentence is about), and a predicate (words that tell us about the subject). There are also different types of sentences: declarative (statements), interrogative (questions), exclamative (exclamations), and commandative (commands). The structure of sentences, and not just phrases, must be studied and practiced in order to learn a new language.

The most important thing, at beginning levels, is to get your French face on. This means pronunciation is critical. You do not want to have to unlearn anything when you get to the next level. The textual pronunciation examples here are based on the International Phonetic Alphabet (IPA), and should be used to prepare your mind. The IPA symbols are designed by scientists, and are no match to listening to French people within their own environment. It is important to actually listen to a real French speaker at this stage. Use the example voices contained in the book, but also watch French media on the Internet. You should be cautioned about French songs. It is acceptable for artists to twist a word for style and for rhyme, and they love to embellish endings. You will also find that mutes are pronounced in lyric and poetry. It is often the case that a singer or poem recitation will say "ewnuh" for une and "veeuh" for vie. You may also note, to prevent boredom, a lyric may be "veeuh" on one verse, and "vee" on the next. Examples, as to why songs and poetry are added experiences in learning and enjoying the French language.

The beginning verbs are:

Just as in English, you will use these as a base to create the fourteen (14) French tenses: present, future, conditional, etc. Don't worry about tenses for this exercise. They are complications that will take months and years to master. Generally, only ten (10) tenses are used except for advanced levels of French.

The above verbs must be mastered to even begin. You might think the list is too short, so feel free to add verbs into your flash-card rotation.

The next verb examples, that are important to any language, are the movement-type verbs. While you can "have, know, can, etc." you also need to "go, come, or stay" in many conversations. These verbs are considered basic building blocks.

Again, feel free to add others to your flash-card rotation.

That brings us to the "Big Seven" French question words. These, like the above will quickly become complicated as well. The following is obviously simplified, but your understanding at this level will quickly get you to the next level.

Finally, one word that is very often needed:

ex: "Parce que vous êtes trop vieux pour ça !" (Because you are too old for this!)
 * Parce que ː Because

Making flash-cards of all the above French words, memorizing them (forward to English/backward to French), will give you a head start in all French language courses.

Impediment of learning by tricks
There are many methods for students to learn new subjects, and the first method is to use what are known as "tricks," designed to make it easier (so it would seem). These tricks, in most cases, merely prevent the brain from storing the information for direct lookup. One example is the French word chat. We can form a rule, whereby anytime you see a ch in French, you will substitute a c and voilà - there you go. Others, such as changing -ment to -ly or -ant to -ing are a similar waste of time.

A good example of the damage that can be done by these "tricks", is in learning Morse Code. Many teachers will begin by showing the dit's and dah's visually, and then make the sound using the key following each symbol. So that dah-di-da-dit "-.-." will be stored in the brain as a c, and somehow (magically) retrieved for use later.

Alas, this technique only works up to a certain speed, and then the students brain is so damaged, they have no hope of using the code any faster than 10 Words Per Minute. It was found (in the 1850's), that if you just associate the whole sound with a letter, and ignore the combinations of dit's and dah's, that new students listening to 20 Words Per Minute for several weeks, were able to go to work immediately. A famous Scottish-American named Andrew Carnegie went from a message boy to head telegraph operator by learning to associate sounds with whole words, and not just writing down each character, as the method used by his peers.

The advice offered in this book, is to avoid these tricks, and to associate word and sentence sounds with their meaning. Listen to the new word or sentence, and store the meaning in your brain. Do not try to translate one language into your native language before responding. When someone hands you a stick of /di.na.mit/ (dee-nah-meet) you should quickly drop it and run, and not stop to translate it into dynamite first. Simply associate the word or sentence, but do not translate it.

When you go shopping, and hear customers saying in English "How much is that?" then you form an association of that sentence to the person wanting to know a price. Similarly, if you hear people in the market asking "Combien ça coûte?" you don't have to translate the sentence, you associate it with people wanting to know a price (or more often wanting to know a lower price while smiling seductively at the assistant). After associating ten things about the word "Combien" the brain will simplify matters for you, much like it pulls the steering wheel with your arm, after the eyes see a pot-hole ahead. Forever more, "Combien" will be associated with a quantity "How much", or "How many" just as pot-holes are associated with "avoid."

title: French/Lessons/Introduction


text:
User talk:220.238.183.187

Please do not vandalize the RuneScape Price Guide. If you continue to do so, action will be taken. Richard 03:57, 29 March 2006 (UTC)

title: User talk:220.238.183.187


text:
French/Lessons/Numbers

We can remark that 21, 31, 41, 51, 61 and 71 can have et un with or without a hyphen; otherwise this it is simply both words consecutively (vingt-six, trente-trois, etc) with a hyphen in between. For 100-199, cent is added before the rest of the number; this continues up to 1000 and onward. Many speakers of French outside of France refer to the numbers 70 to 99 in the same pattern as the other numbers. For instance, in Switzerland and Belgium, 70 is, 71 is septante-et-un, 72 is septante-deux, and so on; 90 is , 91 is , 92 is nonante-deux, and so on. In Switzerland, 80 is or.

In French, the addition, subtraction, multiplication and division are as follows:

 * Calculez:
 * un plus un = deux
 * dix moins sept = trois
 * quatre fois trois = douze
 * vingt divisé par dix = deux

You may sometimes use un plus un font deux.

 * Toto est un personnage imaginaire qui est un cancre à l'école. Il y a beaucoup d'histoires drôles sur Toto !

Francês/Numerais cardinais

title: French/Lessons/Numbers