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Beekeeping/Why Keep Bees

When people think of hobbies, certain things come to mind, like stamp collecting, painting, or knitting. Few people, however, think of beekeeping. After all, who wants to be responsible for literally thousand of creepy, crawly, flying insects that are known to have the ability to sting? Well if you are reading this Wiki book, chances are you do.

Keeping bees, when properly done, can be a unique and highly rewarding pastime. Not only can beekeeping be entertaining and educational, when done on the correct scale it is also often a profitable hobby. Not only will your bees create honey and other products for you to harvest, but if you garden your fruit and vegetable harvest will also flourish.

'''Beekeeping, despite the many misconceptions, is a safe and easy hobby to start. It is a good hobby to start with family or friends.'''

Honey
Man has been motivated to keep bees because of the reward of honey. Honey was the primary sweetener before store bought sugar was available to the masses, and honey is likely the main draw for many beekeepers. Large quantities of honey is produced by certain types of bees, called the honey bees; certain other types of bees such as the stingless bees (i.e. Melipona beecheii) produce moderate amounts of honey. Other types of bees such as bumblebees, and solitary bees do not produce honey.

As any beekeeper that has had at least one good harvest can tell you, there is no other honey that can even compare with that which comes from your own hive. Also, depending on the plants that are used by the bees, the honey you make can have its own distinct flavour. Since you are able to grow your own plants in the vicinity, or even move the hive to another location that has other plants, you can produce honey with different types of flavour.

Depending on location, weather and the experience of the individual beekeeper, it is not unheard of to harvest an excess of 100 pounds of pure honey. This means, for the more entrepreneurial-minded beekeeper, that there would be plenty of honey to sell. Depending on the market available per region this could mean a great deal of profit. In example, in the Midwestern United States honey sells for approximately four dollars a pound in bulk; this could mean as much as $400 gross revenue from a single healthy hive.

Pollination
Any gardener worth their weight in top soil knows the benefits of pollinating insects; having a large number in a central location is just that much more beneficial. A majority of plant survival is dependent on pollination, and bees do nearly eighty percent of all pollination, of which most of this occurs by solitary bees (not honey bees). Both honey bees and solitary bees can be kept by beekeepers, although most still focus primarily on keeping honey bees. However, even in the event that honey bees are used, pollination is still aided and any increased pollination means larger harvests, and larger harvestable fruits and vegetables. By simply having bees one can expect their well-maintained garden to produce leaps and bounds over what it did before with poor or even barely adequate pollination.

Improving Health
Although no specific studies can be cited, many beekeepers claim that tending to their bees relieves stress. Some beekeepers even take a few afternoons during a good season to simply sit and watch the actions of their hives. Watching bees coming and going, with all their hustle and bustle, is quite the relaxing experience.

There’s always something exciting happening in the hive
Beekeepers are constantly learning: Flight patterns, comb-building habits, bee communication, bee lining, and brood-rearing are just some of the many fascinating topics you’ll learn about through keeping bees. A colony is a living organism, with every bee from the newest worker to the all-important queen operating together in harmony. Even in winter, you can listen for the gentle hum inside the hive that lets you know they’re active. You’ll learn from observing your bees at work, and learn year-round through virtual or in-person classes and beekeeping books. There’s no end to what you’ll find as you raise these fascinating fliers.

Just about anyone can keep bees
People of all ages can enjoy beekeeping, and it’s accessible to almost anyone who is willing to put in the time and effort. Years ago, beekeepers had to learn carpentry just to build their own hive. Now, you can buy complete beekeeping kits, and beekeeping supplies can usually be had on-demand from your equipment supplier.

Beekeeping isn’t limited by location: You can plan an apiary based on your available space whether you live in a rural, suburban, or urban setting. There are accessibility options for those with mobility issues, too. Some hives and equipment are specially designed for wheelchair accessibility, and you can alter existing hives to suit your needs. The beekeeping community offers abundant support and resources, and reaching out puts you on the path to success.

Be part of an active beekeeping community
When you become a beekeeper, you can learn from others who enjoy bees as much as you do. Your fellow beekeepers possess a wealth of information; look to them as you learn about honey bee care. Connect with the beekeeping community through social media, find your nearest beekeeping club or association, or ask nearby beekeepers if they’ll serve as your local mentor. Beekeeping associations and clubs often have loaner honey extractors and other equipment available for members to borrow when starting their new hobby.

Pollinators like honey bees are beneficial, but their future is uncertain. Honey bee and wild bee populations have faced serious challenges and threats in recent years, so keeping bees can give you a way to ensure the presence of pollinators for future generations. As part of the beekeeper community, you can spread the word about how important bees are to all of our lives. Start a neighborhood bee club, encourage discussion about pollinator health, and invite people to observe the beekeeping process—you may even inspire others to take up the hobby!

Beekeeping helps you become a better gardener
The benefits of apiculture extend to local agriculture. Aside from their master pollination skills, bees are fantastic teachers. As a beekeeper, many of the lessons you learn about honey bee care apply to plants as well. Beekeepers must pay close attention to the weather conditions and make hive adjustments, which can also translate to improving weather-related care for crops. Beekeeping also teaches you about the basic process of cross-pollination, how to identify beneficial and unfriendly insects, and proper pesticide use, which will also help you manage the health of your garden. Plugging into the worlds of beekeeping and gardening at the same time will keep you totally in tune with the natural world around you.

Urban beekeeping impacts the neighborhood ecosystem
No longer limited to rural areas, urban beekeeping is more popular than ever. Urban beekeepers are setting up hives in residential and city areas that once seemed inhospitable to honey bees. Because of the high flower biodiversity in a city location, with some considerations for bee and human safety urban bees often thrive. Urban beekeeping brings nature closer, so you can enjoy a little bit of serenity in the middle of busy city life.

Urban beekeeping is a hobby that only requires a small footprint—rooftops are popular for city bee hives. Your bees can improve the neighborhood’s ecosystem as they pollinate plants in parks and gardens, which promotes fruiting and seed production. Community garden members may even provide space for hives because they’ll reap benefits, too.

Harvest beeswax and other products of the hive
Though most people think first about honey from the hive, beeswax is valuable as well. Wax is the natural material used by young worker bees when building honeycomb. Once rendered—melted and filtered—beeswax can be used to produce natural products for use at home, to give as gifts, or to include on your sales table:

 * Make lotions, lip balms, soap, and other skincare products.
 * You can DIY your own beeswax products for the home, including wax food wraps and wood furniture polish or cutting board conditioner.
 * Craft beeswax candles in a variety of shapes and styles, from simple taper and votive candles to detailed molded candle designs that look hand-carved.
 * Because it contains few skin irritants but a few antimicrobial compounds, beeswax is a favorite ingredient in beauty products, especially for people with sensitive skin.

title: Beekeeping/Why Keep Bees


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Chess/Playing The Game

Chess, unlike many other games, does not involve direct chance such as the roll of a dice or which card is drawn. The outcome completely depends on the decisions of the players. However, because of its vast complexity, the far-reaching consequences of some decisions are practically unforeseeable.

One player ("White") has the white pieces while the other ("Black") has the black pieces. Sometimes the colors are not black and white (for instance, light and dark, or yellow and blue), but they generally contrast each other. In friendly games the choice of colors can be made by any method, such as flipping a coin. If there is no coin at hand, another typical way of deciding would be to conceal a black piece in one hand and a white piece in the other and ask one's opponent to select a hand. The colored piece selected will be the opponent's color. In competitive games the players are assigned their colors.

Order of play
Once all the pieces have been arranged, White (or the lighter color) makes the first move. White always makes the first move; this is important for notation, and any chess player will insist upon it. After White has made the move, Black will then make a move. The gameplay will continue in alternating fashion, White making a move, followed by Black.

General movement rules

 * A move consists of moving a single piece, in accordance with its rules of movement, to a square that is unoccupied or occupied by an enemy piece. A player may never move a piece onto a square already occupied by another of his or her own pieces.
 * Exception: There is a special move called "castling" where two pieces, a rook and the king, are moved; see below.
 * If a piece is moved onto a square occupied by an enemy piece, the latter piece is removed from play and the first piece replaces it. The removed piece is said to have been captured or taken.
 * Exception: In en passant capture, a pawn moves to an unoccupied square but still captures another pawn "in passing"; see below.
 * Most pieces move and capture opponent pieces in the same way.
 * Exception: The pawn has separate rules for moving and capturing opponent pieces.
 * Most pieces may only make a move to a non-adjacent square if all the intervening squares are vacant (pieces may not 'jump over' other pieces).
 * Exception: The knight can move to any suitable final square regardless of occupants of other squares.
 * Exception: In castling, a king and a rook jump over each other.
 * No player may make a move that leaves their own king "in check" (see below).
 * The player must always make a move when it is his or her turn. In other words, he or she cannot choose not to make a move. If no legal move is possible the game ends in a draw (see below), except when the king is in check - this is called checkmate, and is usually how the opposing player wins.

Also, when a pawn moves to a square at the opposite end of the board, it becomes a different piece (pawn promotion); all of these exceptions are covered below in more detail.

The board
Traditionally, the game is played on a board of 64 alternating black and white squares turned with a white square to each player's near right-hand corner. "White on right" is a helpful saying to remember this convention. The light and dark squares on the chessboard and the light and dark chess pieces are traditionally referred to as "white" and "black" respectively, although in modern chess sets almost any colors may be used (as long as they are not the same colors.)

The horizontal rows of squares are called ranks and are numbered 1-8; the vertical columns of squares are called files and given the letters a-h. This way any single square can be easily identified by its rank and file, making it possible to record games by writing down the starting and ending position of the piece that moves every turn.

A chess diagram is always printed from the White player's perspective.

The pieces
The movement of the individual pieces is described below. In all the board diagrams shown, the squares to which the piece in question can move are indicated with x's.

Pawn
Pawns can move one square straight forward, or optionally and on their first move only, two squares straight forward. The pawn is the only piece that can't move backwards. This piece is worth 1 point.

Capturing Pieces
The pawn can move one square diagonally forward to capture a piece, but cannot capture a piece by moving straight forward. For this reason, two opposing pawns on a file may become blocked by each other. In the first diagram below, legal capture moves for the white pawn are indicated with black circles.

To capture means to displace a piece, meaning, to replace the captured with the capturer.

In the second diagram below the White pawn is prevented from moving forwards by the Black pawn immediately in front of it (in the d-file) which it cannot capture, but it can capture the adjacent Black pawn by moving diagonally forward as seen in the last diagram.

The pawn is the only piece that moves and captures differently.

Knight
The knight has a unique move that allows it to flank the other pieces. The easiest way to describe this move is that he moves to a square of the opposite color from the one he's on that is exactly two squares away from him. This piece is worth 3 points.

Another way to visualize the move is this: of the 16 squares that are 2 away from a knight he reaches the 8 that are of the opposite color of the square he's on and the other 8 can be reached by a queen where she on his square.

It is important to remember that the knight moves in a straight line like all the other pieces, it's just along lines of movement no other piece uses. Consider this comparison: A queen moves ordinally along the ranks and files - North, East, South, and West on a compass rose; and she also moves diagonally - Northeast, Southeast, Southwest, and Northwest on a compass rose. The knight moves along the wind lines of the rose - North by Northeast, East by Northeast, and so on. These lines pass between the squares adjacent to the knight and pass through the middle of the squares that are one square away from the knight. The knight moves to the first square its line of movement passes through the middle of, so like the King the knight has eight squares he can move to when he is near the center of the board. Since the knight is moving between the squares adjacent to him pieces do not hinder his move whether they are allied or enemy.

Capturing Pieces
The knight captures any opponent's piece that occupies a square it can move to by removing that piece from the board and placing the knight in that square. An important consequence of the knight's use of wind lines is that it can attack (that is, threaten to capture) pieces without being threatened in return so long as they are not also knights. The reverse is also true - pieces attacking a knight are never threatened by it.

Bishop
The bishop can move any number of squares diagonally. The bishop may not jump over any piece of either color.

The bishop is restricted to the color of squares on which it began the game. Each player starts out with one light-square bishop that moves on the light colored squares, and one dark-square bishop that moves on the dark colored squares. In the diagram below, the bishop stands on a light square and can only move to other light squares. This piece worth 3 points.

Capturing Pieces
The bishop captures any opponent's piece that it encounters during the movement described above, and then occupies the captured piece's square. In the diagram above the bishop may take any of the black queens. Notice that bishop may not move (jump) to squares behind or capture pieces hiding behind the queens.

Rook
The rook can be moved any number of squares horizontally or vertically, but not diagonally. Like the bishop, the rook cannot jump over any pieces, except for "castling".This piece is worth 5 points.

Capturing Pieces
If the rook attempts to occupy a space already occupied by an opponent's piece, it captures the piece. In the diagram above the rook may take any of the black queens.

Queen
The queen is the most powerful piece, being able to move any number of squares in any lateral or diagonal direction. It is best described as the combination of a rook's and bishop's movement capabilities.This piece is worth 9 points.

Capturing Pieces
The queen captures any opponent's piece that it encounters during the movement described above, and then occupies the captured piece's square. In the diagram above the queen may take any of the black queens.

King
The king can move one square at a time in any direction, as long as doing so does not place himself in check (see below). This piece is worth ∞ points, because if you lose the king, you lose the game. (Note that the king would be 3.5 points as an attacker/defender.)

Capturing Pieces
The king may capture any opponent's piece adjacent to it, as long as doing so does not place himself in check (see below). In the diagrams above the king may take any of the black knights.

Check
The king is the most important piece belonging to each player, though not the most powerful. If a player moves a piece such that he threatens to capture his opponent's king in the next move, that king is said to be in check.

If a player's king is in check, he must immediately remove the check by moving the king, blocking the check with another piece, or capturing the checking piece.

In the diagram below black's rook has checked the white king. White may avoid the check by moving the king one step sideways, blocking the check by putting the rook between the attacking black rook and the white king, or capture the black rook using the white bishop. Other normally legal moves, like moving one of the pawns, are illegal in this position since they will not remove the check.

In a friendly game, a check is usually announced by saying check after the move is completed.

Checkmate
If the king is placed in check and can not escape, it is said to have been checkmated (or "mated" for short). The first player to checkmate the opponent's king wins the game. Note that the king is never actually captured, since it is obliged to move out of check whenever possible (and the game ends when it is impossible). In the diagram below white has no options to escape the check from black's rook, he is therefore checkmated.

Special Restrictions — Avoiding "Self-check"
Players may not make any move which allows their king to be captured in the next move, i.e. places their own king in check. Thus two kings may never occupy adjacent squares, since they would have put themselves in check by moving there. This is called the "opposition" and is indispensable when, for instance, you are using a queen or rook to checkmate a king.

The white king in the following diagram cannot move upwards or to the left since it would be in check from the bishop, or diagonally downwards which would leave it adjacent to the black king. Also, as no piece is threatening it if it fails to move, the king is not currently in check. Similarly, the black king cannot move diagonally upwards as that would put it next to the White king.

The diagram below shows a position where the white bishop's movement is restricted by the same rule; the bishop can not be moved since the move would let black capture the white king in his next move. The white king on the other hand may move to any of the adjacent squares.

Pawn Promotion
If a pawn makes it to one of the eight squares along the far edge of the board from their initial position, the pawn is "promoted". Upon reaching the far rank the player exchanges the pawn with either a queen, a rook, a bishop, or a knight. The player's move ends when the new piece occupies the promoted square.

The new piece need not be a previously captured piece. Thus a player can have more than one queen, and more than two rooks, bishops or knights on the board. The player may never have more than one king, since the pawn can not be promoted to a king. In theory it is possible to get up to nine queens, or ten rooks, bishops or knights since there are eight pawns to promote. In practice however the pawn is usually promoted to a queen, since it is the most powerful piece, and it is rare for a player to have more than two queens on the board. If an extra queen is not at hand, an upside-down rook is usually used as a substitute.

Castling

Castling is a move involving the king and either of the rooks. Castling performed with the king's rook is called kingside castling, performed with the queen's rook is called queenside castling. A castling is typically done to move the king to a protective 'castle' surrounded by three pawns and a rook.

Subject to restrictions detailed below, a player may move his king two squares towards the rook, and subsequently, on the same turn, move the rook adjacent to but on the opposite side of the king, (onto the square over which the king has just passed).

The restrictions specific to castling are:

 * 1) Neither the king nor the participating rook may have moved previously in the game
 * 2) The king must not be in check at the start of the move, though it may have been in check previously in the game.
 * 3) The square over which the king passes must not be under attack ('in check') from an enemy piece. (This would expose the king to a "check" in passing.)  The rook(s) may be under attack, or the queens' rooks may pass through an attacked queens' knight square.
 * 4) The king must not be in check at the end of the move. (Also applies to all normal moves.)
 * 5) The squares between the king and rook must be vacant.

The diagrams below show examples of positions where castling is not legal.

Note that the king must be the first piece moved and it must be moved two squares before it is released. If the rook is touched or moved first, then the king must stay where it is. This rule mainly applies in "strict rules of chess" where if a piece is touched, it must be moved. Touching the rook first indicates a rook only move, while releasing the king after one square indicates a king only move. Moving the king two squares is not a legal move by itself, and indicates a castling move.

En passant capture
En passant is French for "in passing"; you capture an enemy pawn as it is passing you.

When a pawn on its first move advances two squares onto the same rank as an opposing pawn on an adjacent file, this opposing pawn may, on that player's next move only, capture the advancing pawn as though it had only moved one square (provided the move is otherwise legal). The pawn's ability to move two squares on their first move was a relatively late addition to the game of chess. En Passant was introduced to prevent abuses of the new rule.

In the following example, the Black pawn advances two squares, and is captured by the White pawn which moves diagonally forwards and to the right (as if the Black pawn had moved only one square forward and been there). This move is only allowed on the turn in which the option is presented.

Initial position
In the initial position each side has eight pawns, two rooks, two knights, two bishops, a queen and a king arranged as shown in the diagram below. Note that the only pieces on either side which can initially move are the pawns and knights.

Beginners often set up the board incorrectly; it is a complex position to remember. The following mnemonics may help you remember where the pieces go.

 * White on the Right It is important that the bottom-right-hand square is light-colored.
 * Knights live in castles One knight is placed next to each rook (rooks look like the towers of a castle, and are sometimes [incorrectly] even called castles.)
 * Queens on their color OR The dress matches the shoes The White Queen goes on a White Square, Black Queen goes on a Black Square
 * Bishops are advisers to the Royalty Bishops surround the King and Queen.
 * White King on the Right From the White Player's perspective, both Kings are on the right, and from the Black Player's perspective, the Kings are on the left.

If the ranks and files are printed on the board, the following rules may be helpful:
 * White's pieces should be placed on the 1st and 2nd rank, and Black's pieces should be placed on the 7th and 8th rank.
 * The Queens should be positioned on the d-file (D for Dame).

Conclusion of the game
Play continues to alternate between White and Black until one of the following outcomes is reached:

Winning and losing

 * One player's king is checkmated. The game is lost by that player.
 * In a competitive game, one player runs out of time. The game is lost by that player (with two important exceptions, see draws below).
 * One player resigns, which is equivalent to quitting the game. A player may resign on either his or his opponent's turn. Resignation is often symbolized by the resigning player tipping over his king.

Draws

 * The player to move has been stalemated, meaning that he has no legal move and is not in check.
 * Both players agree to draw the game. Either player may offer a draw to the opponent upon completion of his move. If the offer is accepted, the game is drawn. If the offer is rejected, the game will continue.
 * A player can claim a draw with if any of the following are true:
 * If the exact same position occurs or will occur three times with the same player to move, the player on move may claim a draw by threefold repetition. Note that the same set of moves must be available for each player (including castling and en passant).
 * No pawn has moved and no piece was captured in the last 50 moves.
 * The opponent does not have sufficient material to checkmate him by any legal sequence of moves.
 * Both players have run out of time in a competitive game.
 * One player has run out of time in a competitive game, but the opponent does not have sufficient pieces to checkmate him by any legal sequence of moves.

The diagrams above shows example of some of the draw rules:
 * Stalemate: Since black can not move the pawn or the king without placing himself in self-check, the game results in a stalemate.
 * Threefold repetition: Black has checked white, and can continue to check white forever by moving the rook back and forth between f2 and f1. The same position will thus occur again and again.
 * 50 move rule: White has material advantage and enough material to mate, but if black plays correctly black will use his bishop to avoid being mated forever.
 * Insufficient mating material: White has material advantage, but not enough material to mate.

Chess Etiquette
Generally, chess games at tournaments are conducted under the following rules:
 * Touch-move rule - If a player touches his own piece, he must move it, and if a player touches an opponents piece, he must capture it (unless the capture is not possible). If he releases a piece on a square, the move is completed and can't be taken back. If you need to center a piece on its square, it is traditional to say j'adoube (I adjust).
 * Be silent when your opponent is on the move - You can only adjust pieces, offer a draw, or claim a draw when it is your turn to move.

A friendly game may be played in any way that is mutually agreeable. Generally it is considerate to avoid distracting your opponent.

Glossary

 * Capture - To move one's piece into the same square as one of one's opponent's pieces. The opponent's piece is removed from the board.
 * Check - The king is 'in check' when it is being attacked by an enemy piece.
 * Checkmate - The player whose turn it is can make no legal move to get his king out of check.
 * Stalemate - The player whose turn it is can make no legal move, but the king is not in check.

Manual de Ajedrez/Iniciación del juego Scacchi/Le regole del gioco Catur/Bermain Schaken/Spelregels Xadrez/Regras Şah/Reguli de bază 国际象棋/规则

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Chess/Playing The Game


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sample configuration of learning management system components

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Talk:Finnish

Untitled
Keep it and the language you use SIMPLE, as this meant to a beginner's book to learn Finnish. So avoid any linguistic terminology such as agglutinated form, because it could easily confuse the reader. If you need to give reader terminology, explain it. Also keep any Finnish in bold so that the reader can see that is Finnish. 159753 20:26, 20 Apr 2005 (UTC)

Merger Proposal Rejected
The reason is that the other two books, Suomen Kieli Ulkomaaliasille and Suomen Kieli Käyttöön are translations from the Finnish Wikibooks of the same names (the translations being at present in in English and Russian, although some pages are being developed first in English or Russian and will be moved into Finnish later. Because this is rather a complex process, the names of the pages and the books have been kept the same in the two versions making it easy to switch between the various language versions by changing the URL from fi.wikibooks... to en.wikibooks.. and ru.wikibooks. It is therefore impractical to merge the books whilst this process is in development.

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Template talk:Ada/kw

Underline
I think the keywords should not be underlined, getting a more usual keyword face. I tried to remove the underline with the font style properties, but it seems that the hyperlink style prevails. Any ideas for removing the underline? ManuelGR 20:52, 20 Apr 2005 (UTC)

hyperlink style
I think all sourcecode templates would benefit from no underlines. Maybe wee need to try to change the hyperlink styles:

A:link A:visited A:hover

--Krischik 07:13, 21 Apr 2005 (UTC)

 * I didn't notice that only the preformatted hyperlinks have underlines, but in the HTML source they don't have any different class, so its style might depend on context. I think it is not possible to be solved by wiki syntax on the page, but project wide in MediaWiki:Monobook.css. ManuelGR 19:18, 21 Apr 2005 (UTC)

Removing underline is possible now, after fifteen years, thanks to TemplateStyles. However, it should not be used: underlining is an important information to readers—it shows that this piece of text is worth clicking on. Without the underlining, nothing marks it’s a link. —Tacsipacsi (discuss • contribs) 10:12, 14 January 2020 (UTC)

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Beekeeping/Solitary Bees

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to keep bees wherever one lives. Because of this, if bees are still desired, solitary bees are an option. There exist solitary bees that are native to most regions of the world. In this classification of bees, there is no queen bee, and therefore every female is fertile. There are no worker bees for these species, as essentially laying females act as both a worker and queen in and of her self. Solitary bees typically don’t produce honey or beeswax on a harvestable scale.

Solitary bees are especially important as pollinators as many feral social bees are in danger, due to dwindling numbers and parasites.

Mason Bees
The term "mason bee" describes a solitary bee that lays their egg within a hole and separates that egg with mud, resin, leaf bits, pebbles, or chewed up vegetation/mud. These solitary bees typically have life spans of about 6 weeks and are active only a part of the season. The bees emerge from cocoons when the weather reaches a specific temperature keyed to that bee's instinctual requirements.

Mason bees will complete their life-cycle entirely on their own. However, most species of mason bees will nest close together, to increase breeding diversity and lower predation rates. This gregarious behavior of the bees makes it possible to keep mason bees in some capacity.

Blue Orchard Bees
(Osmia) The blue orchard bee, a spring mason bee, is opportunistic when it comes to its home and nesting site. Blue orchard bees lay their eggs in holes which they do not bore themselves. Rather they depend on preexisting holes to lay eggs. When preparing a nest site, the female bee will place a dab of mud at the end of the nest. The bee then begins to place up to twenty-thirty loads of nectar and pollen at the end of the tube. Once sufficient food has been collected, an egg is laid and she then seals that segment of the nest with a thin mud plug. This process is repeated for the length of the hole until she places an extra thick mud plug at the end to prevent pests from entering her nesting eggs.

Blue orchard bees are fantastic pollinators of early spring plants and fruit trees. Blue orchard bees are high-speed flyers, and will pollinate many flowers in a short period of time. The bee’s high rate of activity, even during poorer weather, makes it an attractive pollinator for early crops. Much like honey bees, blue orchard bees will gather nectar in their honey sack as they forage. Any collected nectar is eaten directly by the foraging bee or saved as provisions for its nest. However, unlike honey bees, blue orchard bees do not have modified hind legs to store and carry pollen, rather pollen is collected within rows of stiff hairs that are located beneath the abdomen. The pollen tends to fall off on every flower they touch. As a result, they can pollinate about 2,000 flowers a day in comparison to the honey bee's 15 flowers a day.

The blue orchard bee may appear black in appearance, but is actually a dark metallic greenish blue color. Because these bees look strikingly similar to common flies, be sure to identify them before dismissing them. The female is about half an inch in length, the smaller male is more slender and of a stouter length. Males can be distinguished from females because of their long antennae and the existence of a light colored hair on the front of their head.

There are two subspecies, Osmia lignaria propinqua (west of the Rockies) and Osmia lignaria lignaria (east of the Rockies).

Hornfaced Bee
Osmia cornifrons

Introduced to the US in 1984 as a gift from Japan. Dr. Batra sent the cocoons of the Hornfaced Bee throughout the US. This was before there were US restrictions on introducing invasive species. As a result, the hornfaced bee, or the Japanese Orchard Bee (JOB's) are now a naturalized insect in the US.

There are many orchards using this pollinator, predominantly in the Wisconsin and NE states of the US.

It is extremely similar in characteristics to the Blue Orchard Bee, or BOB.

Plants
Typically, most plants which are considered good for honeybees is considered proper for solitary bees. Most of these will be too late in the lifespan for masonbees, as they live only about one month as active pollinators. That is especially during early blooming fruit. Different species of mason bees will pollinate plants. For example, the blue orchard bee exists only in the spring and pollinates fruit trees or virtually anything blooming at that period. Other mason bees, like the leaf cutter bee which flies at 85 degrees pollinates plants later in the season like alfalfa. Solitary bees often tend to start forage earlier in the morning (and earlier in the spring !!!), and thereby may pollinate some plants better. Some plants may be visited more often or more efficiently by differing types of bees, therefore a bee variety means better pollination.

Building Solitary Bee Houses
A solitary bee house for blue orchard or hornfaced bees can easily be built from scraps of non-treated wood (not cedar) by drilling a number of holes so as they don’t come though the other side. Bee houses for masonry bees can be made by drilling holes in bricks or can also be made by filling a wooden box (opened at the front) with paper straws. A same design of house can also be made by using stems of certain plants (like Dipsacus spp, Phragmites ) but seem to attract only carpenter bees.

Each of the holes is what the solitary bees will make their nests in. Each individual hole is a separate nest for each individual female bee.

 * Blue orchard bees seem to prefer 5/16 in (8 mm) in diameter holes. Holes should be drilled between 3 and 10 inches (7—25 cm) deep for best results. The deeper the holes, the more females may be created.
 * Caution: these drilled holes are easy to build, but actually are bad for the solitary bee. Pests (pollen mites, chalkbrood, etc.) also increase which results in the entire hole not opening up after a second season of use.  The uninformed gardener sees a mudded-over entrance and assumes their solitary bees are fine.  In reality, these holes over 2-3 years tend to not open up and are instead, mason bee cemeteries.  Using paper straws, reeds, or wood trays are already better for producing more solitary bees.  Placing straw inserts into the drilled holes is an option, but at times the pollen within the hole is so wet, it cements the insert to the wood... again making the hole useless.  Using plastic straws traps the moisture within the straw resulting in moldy cocoons. Basically one must know that any kind of artificial nesting device must be really weathered before bees are going to accept it. Whatever the material is, factory smells and tastes must be gone before using.
 * Other non-specific holes may attract solitary wasps. Smaller 1/8-inch holes attract aphid wasps which help the gardener reduce aphids without using chemicals or pesticides.
 * Put houses facing south to southeast to allow morning light to warm the houses and encourage foraging. Placing the house under an overhang helps the holes stay dry.  A height of 5-7 feet (2m) above ground is preferred so that the gardener can watch the activity.  Any height is fine, but on the ground increases the likelihood of rodent interference.

In Belgium, modular ceramic and rubber breeding systems are developed by the founder of these, Leo Aerts. They are easy to maintain and very sustainable. Also suggested to use with BEE-O-Smell (Olfactorius) for starting populations. The properties of ceramic and rubber make it possible to focus even on ground-nesting bees as Andrena and some Colletes, which are both also excellent pollinators. Especially useful in hillside cultures of any fruit or veggies. Modules can easy withstand being half dug in. Experiments are running.

Buying Bees
Some solitary bees (Blue Orchard and Japanese Hornfaced) may be purchased locally at some garden centers or nurseries. If they can’t be found locally, they can also be found from online retailers and mail order catalogs. When purchasing mason bees through the mail they may arrive as cocoons within a cardboard tube. If purchased in February or later, ensure they are transported with cooling packs as you don't want your bees emerging mid-transit. The cocoons should be kept in your crisper drawer in the refrigerator until the outside weather is about 55 degrees F (12 degrees Celsius) and pollen is available.

Links

 * Government of British Columbia’s Blue Orchard Mason Bee Page
 * USDA’s Bee Biology and Systematic Library – How to build a nesting block
 * USDA Agricultural Research Service- Building a Nesting Block

title: Beekeeping/Solitary Bees


text:
Talk:Indonesian/Lessons/Alphabet

Untitled
bath in Standard American English has the same sound as cat. We should consider adding IPA equivalants. Dancxjo

title: Talk:Indonesian/Lessons/Alphabet


text:
Talk:Trigonometry/Verifying Trigonometric Identities

Utility
I don't think this page is useful in its current form, and I don't think expanding it will help. Worked examples actually in the text are better. Anyone think it should be rescued? JamesCrook (talk) 17:27, 29 October 2010 (UTC)

copyright 2004?!
isn't it highly inappropriate to post copyrighted work and/or to claim copyright on anything in Wikibooks? (Especially things that others wrote...)

--Ilg 08:21, 9 January 2006 (UTC)

 * You are correct with this assumption. I found the link for the original content:

http://www.karlscalculus.org/trigid_examples.html

 * --Rob Horning 09:11, 23 January 2006 (UTC)

Robinson0120 I went ahead and added the link at the bottom. This section really is missing a lot besides problems- should we add in the trigonometric identities to this page also?


text:
Talk:Web Hosting

Webhosting Guide

We reccomend:

www.webmediasystems.net - WMS

www.freewebspace.net - Free!

We do not reccomend:

GeoCities.com

Tripod.com —The preceding unsigned comment was added by 68.49.152.48 (talk • contribs).

title: Talk:Web Hosting


text:
Cookbook:Habanero

| Chili Pepper

A habanero (not habañero) is an unbelievably hot chili pepper, often rated between 200,000 to 300,000 Scoville heat units. Although not eaten by most, there is a niche for habaneros from some of those who like hot food. Merely touching them can cause a strong burning sensation. Brushing contaminated hands on any other body part, particularly the face and genitals, can lead to excruciating pain. Particular caution should be made when dropping habaneros in to hot oil, as the steam that rises will cause irritation if it hits the eyes or other membranes.

Habaneros, besides their intense heat, are known for their delicate almost citrus like flavor. Many connoisseurs of hot foods prefer to select smaller, more wrinkled habaneros, as those are the ones with the most intense heat and best flavor. People who are less bold, but still enjoy spicy foods, can carefully remove the ribs and seeds of the pepper and eat the remaining flesh.

title: Cookbook:Habanero


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Cookbook:Jalapeño

| Chili Pepper

A jalapeño is a moderately hot variety of chili pepper that can be used in a variety of dishes, mostly from the U.S. Southwest. It is also be made into such condiments as jalapeño jelly.

title: Cookbook:Jalapeño


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School Science/Demo periscope

A cost-effective way of making a sturdy demonstration periscope
Fig. 1 Periscope Demo Diagram  Fig. 2 Periscope Demo Photo

Equipment Required (to Make Demo Periscope)

 * 2 pieces of plywood 45 cm × 10 cm and 0.9 cm thick
 * 2 pieces of plywood at least 37 cm × 10 cm and 0.9 cm thick
 * 2 pieces of plywood at least 11.6 cm × 10 cm and 0.9 cm thick
 * 2 pieces of wood which are prism shaped at least 10 cm × 8.5 cm × 8.5 cm the internal angles should be 90° and 45°
 * 2 plastic or glass mirrors 10 cm × 10 cm
 * small screws to fit.
 * Screwdriver
 * Drill with suitable drill bits for the screws
 * PVA Glue

Method for making the demonstration periscope

 * 1) Cut the wood to the correct size and sand if need be.
 * 2) Screw the 4 long pieces together as in fig 1.
 * 3) Screw the prism shaped pieces of wood on either end as in fig 1. and attach mirrors with glue.
 * 4) Attach ends as in fig 1.
 * 5) It should look something like fig 2.

title: School Science/Demo periscope


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Cookbook talk:Habanero

I removed the statement that “almost nobody eats habaneros” Where as it may be more so rare than other foods, it is available in many super markets especially in New Mexico, Texas and Colorado. It is defiantly available for those who want it, and I’m sure availability would not be so pronounced id nobody ate them. -Robert Engelhardt 04:30, Apr 21, 2005 (UTC)

 * Availability is partly because habaneros keep well. They can sit in the store for a long time. They don't take up much space. They command a fairly high price. A bit of litigation could put a stop to this. AlbertCahalan 14:20, 21 Apr 2005 (UTC)

 * It needs to be made really clear that this is not like a jalapeño. Most people find the jalapeño to be intolerably hot. The bit about "delicate almost citrus like flavor" is pretty funny. I can't imagine that anyone would be able to notice. Peppers are used in hot-weather cuisines (Central America, SE Asia, Africa, India...) to hide the taste of spoiled food. Aside from the hotness, any flavor from yeast-like to banana-like would not be distinguishable. After eating the habanero, corn tastes like beef tastes like mint tastes like french fries... AlbertCahalan 14:20, 21 Apr 2005 (UTC)

 * Admittedly they can be quite hot, and I would not recommend anyone eat them unless they have some extreme intestinal fortitude, or have a good deal of experience with spicy food. I personally did not start eating them until about 2 or so years ago, and now I can’t imagine going on without them. They however do not seem to keep well at all, I’m lucky to find one in good shape at the grocery store, and even then I often can’t keep them from getting moldy or breaking down for more than a few days. This year I’ve decided to actually plant a few in the garden, I’ll be able to see how they properly last, and I’ll be sure to notify everyone around here about my findings. Robert Engelhardt 18:51, Apr 21, 2005 (UTC)

title: Cookbook talk:Habanero


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School Science/Bell jar model lung

This simple Bell jar model lung can be used to demonstrate the basic principles of breathing. The model should be assembled as in the diagram. A swimming cap makes a suitable diaphragm. The cap can be attached to the bottom of the bell jar, and the balloons can be attached to the Y shaped tube, with elastic bands or plastic coated wire.

How the Model Works
The cavity inside the bell jar is airtight The bell jar model helps children from all ages
 * As the diaphragm is pulled down, the volume of the cavity increases. This causes the pressure to fall. Air rushes in to equalise the pressure causing the balloons to inflate.
 * As the diaphragm is pushed up, the volume of the cavity decreases, the pressure rises, and the air rushes out of the balloons causing them to deflate.
 * This is a great project for classes studying health or for those students learning fluids in science.

More Advanced Models
To more accurately render the anatomical and physiological properties of the lung, where the intrapleural space is filled with aqueous fluid you might want to replace the air in the bell jar with water. By filling the intrapleural space with water the model becomes a little bit more responsive, because of the incompressibility of water in contrast to air. Additionally preloading the balloons by removing water also better assures their automatic return to the exhaled position. A good introduction and overview is given by an article by T. Sherman in Advances in Physiological Education.

title: School Science/Bell jar model lung


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Beekeeping/Queen Bee

Queen bees begin the same as any other fertilized bee egg. The main difference is their rich diet of royal jelly and an extended sized cell. In each colony, there normally only exists a single mated adult queen, however it is not unheard of to have a mother and daughter queen function in the same hive at the same time. There have even been recorded examples of grandmother, mother and daughter queens working in the same hive, however it is not possible to have sister queen working at the same time. In most cases, because she is the only mated bee in a queenright hive, the queen is either the mother or sister of all bees within a hive.

Appearance
The queen is the largest bee within a colony. She is considered by some to have an almost wasp like form, but obviously closely resembles the form of a bee. The queen will have a longer body than any other bee within the colony, it will seem almost as if her wings are simply too short. If you are lucky the queen will be marked and will easily stand out as compared to the rest of the bees. Depending on race the queen may be lighter or darker than the other bees.

The Queen's Court
The queen bee is wholly unable to care for herself, because of this she is often surrounded by a ring of attendant bees that follow her, feed her, groom her and carry away her waste.

Aggressiveness
The queen bee does have a stinger, and unlike that of a worker bee it is not barbed, and may thereby be extracted after a sting without killing her. This means that a queen is capable of stinging multiple times, however it is extremely rare for a queen to sting a beekeeper, even if being treated roughly. The queen's sting is most often reserved for dispatching other queens within the hive.

From Egg to Bee
Queens develops more fully than their sexually immature hive mate workers because of her vitamin and mineral rich  royal jelly diet. The queen Brood must also be raised in a larger specially constructed queen cell.

Queen Cell
Queen cells, unlike normal brood cells, are built vertically instead of horizontally. This special queen cell is often referred to as a peanut or peanut cell. There exist three main distinctions regarding queen cells and their specific purposes.
 * Swarm cells :Swarm cells are created near the bottom of the comb during a time when a swarm is likely. The new queen often stays behind with the old queen leaving with the swarm.
 * Supersedure cell :Supersedure cells are created mid-level on the comb, there is likely always a few in existence. Any queen that hatches from a supersedure cell will likely replace the active queen.
 * Replacement cell :Replacement cells are built in case of emergency to replace a missing queen.

Larva
Once the queen to be has hatched from her egg, workers cap the cell enclosing her. In some case where the queen is lost, even after the larva within has hatched, a normal cell may be converted into a queen cell and the larva can be coaxed into becoming a queen.

Emergence
As young queens begin to emerge from their cell, they often begin to emit a high-pitched perching sound called a pipe. This signal is thought to be a notification of hatching to challenge other emerging or existing queens. Emerged un-mated queens in most cases will quickly find and kill their developing queen sisters.

Mating
Within a week or two after hatching, on a clear warm day, a new queen will take part in a nuptial flight in order to mate with several drones. This virgin queen will only have a short window where successful mating may take place. If unable to mate due to bad weather, or other consequences, the queen will become what is considered a drone layer. In nature a queen that solely lays drones means certain death for the colony, as there will exist no fertilized eggs from which a replacement queen may be raised. Because the queen is able to store the sperm from the drones she mated with, the queen should be able to lay fertilized eggs for her 2-3 year life span. After mating, the queen will not leave the hive, with the possible exception of joining a swarm.

Egg Laying
Once mated it is the queen’s primary function to act as sole extender of her line of genetics. In essence the queens bee’s purpose is to constantly lay eggs. A healthy queen which was well cared for and a proper mating, may lay up to 1,500 eggs per day during peak times of the spring build-up, as quick as a new egg in a thirty second interval. During a time of prosperity the queen may lay several times her own weight in eggs every day.

Queen Substance
The queen is also responsible for producing a pheromone commonly referred to as the queen substance. This pheromone alerts the entire hive to the queen’s well being, if absent, even if just for a few hours, the entire colony is notified and work is begun creating a new queen.

Life Cycle

 * Day 0 :A fertilized egg is laid by the reigning queen.
 * Day 3 :The fertilized egg hatches.
 * Day 9 :The queen’s cell is capped.
 * Day 16 :The new queen emerges from her cell.
 * Days 19-21 :The queen’s orientation Flight takes place.
 * Days 23-26 :The queen takes her nuptial Flights
 * Days 26-30 :The queen begins to lay eggs.
 * It is possible for a queen to live for up to 5 years, however she is often replaced within 2.

Quick Facts

 * The queen bee, though always considered a monarch, was once considered to be a king bee.
 * Despite her royal title, the queen bee has little to no say to what goes on within a hive. This task is up to the workers.

title: Beekeeping/Queen Bee


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Talk:Lucid Dreaming/FAQ

I often lucid dream ,mainly in nightmares, I realize it is a dream and I wake myself up by yelling wake up over and over but on the first few tries my mouth is paralyzed but I hear my voice. How can I take control instead of just merely exiting the dream.,

How is this a FAQ?

FAQ= FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS.

title: Talk:Lucid Dreaming/FAQ


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User talk:Riaan

Riaan, please let me know if there is anything I can do to help you. Is there anyone else who is going to be uploading a lot of material? Is everything already written or do the developers plan to use the site to do some of the collaboration?

Thanks, --Karl Wick 06:04, 21 Apr 2005 (UTC)

Hi Karl

You best speak to Mark Newlyn about this, FHSST is his project, see: I was contracted to upload the physics textbook up to wikibooks once it was deemed to be ready. Two other textbooks are on their way, one for Chemistry and one for Mathematics.

As you can see from the FHSST Physics, not everything is there yet, and I am sure there are many formatting issues that can be improved :) Any help with that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, --Riaan 09:01, 28 Apr 2005 (UTC)

Thank you and 1 suggestion
THank you for your contributions to this physics education guide. May I suggest that in addition to the images that you add to the wiki you also add their respective sources especially if they (as I hope) happen to be made with a free software. This would allow other people like me to reuse some of the images, for example to translate them to French. Regards, Nicolas ( npettiaux on fr.wikipedia.org)

Copyright problem with Image:FHST Physics smaller.jpg
--Derbeth 23:00, 5 November 2005 (UTC)

Releasing a first PDF edition of Physics?
I have recently proposed that some Wikibooks are ready for a first PDF edition. Physics is a likely candidate. The first edition would contain a prominent link saying "If you wish to edit, correct or contribute to this book please click here". The idea is to use some of the better and more complete books as an example. What do you think? See:

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Wikibooks:Staff_lounge#The_management_of_book_publishing_-_a_policy_suggestion

RobinH 16:28, 22 January 2006 (UTC)

Pictures
As you can see at the top of this page, "All unlicensed images uploaded to wikibooks before November 1, 2006 will soon be deleted." You have uploaded images and some of them are untagged. You can see them here. Please review them and add appropriate tags. If you have any questions, feel free to ask me. --Think Fast 04:22, 13 November 2006 (UTC)

Copyright problem with Image:Doing Investigations Pie1.png
Thanks for uploading Image:Doing Investigations Pie1.png. The Wikimedia Foundation is very careful about what Wikibooks includes because of copyright law, and requires that we maintain a strict copyright policy. Image:Doing Investigations Pie1.png and other files you uploaded may soon be deleted unless we can determine the copyright holder and status. The copyright holder is usually the creator, the creator's employer, or the last person who was transferred ownership rights. Please take the time to read Media to learn more about what copyright information is required to satisfy our requirements and remember to include this important information for every file that you upload in the future as well. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me, or ask another Wikibookian at the help desk. Thank you.

See for a complete list of your uploads which may get deleted soon.

 – Mike.lifeguard  | talk 15:03, 17 September 2007 (UTC)

title: User talk:Riaan


text:
Do-It-Yourself/Breed siamese fighting fish

Breeding Siamese Fighting Fish

The system of betta fish is based upon aggression & territoriality. There can be serious consequences with fighting between fish, especially if the defeated contender cannot get out of the reach of the victor of the battle. They have been bred to be more aggressive to one another, literally down to the teeth. Even if the loser can escape the victor, both fish have inflicted wounds upon one another that can lead the way for potentially fatal infection.

Method Notes
 Easy to learn Is the most efficient way as you gain more experience

Breeding Notes
 Not all males build a nest before trying to mate. Some do it as they are mating. A majority of females do not care for the above types of males. Take out the female after they have finished spawning, or when the male is constantly chasing the female and she appears very tired (Some chasing is common before breeding).

Breeding Requirements

The basic equipment list needed includes:

Methylene Blue (to protect torn fins from getting infected) spawning Maroxy (to prevent fungus from attacking eggs) Aquarium Salt (to prevent velvet disease) Treat with medicine to cure, not prevent. Bettas internal organs can be damaged by harsh medicine.  Tank Dimensions: Height 14cm. Width 13cm. Length 22cm. Smaller tanks technically could work but, you run the risk of disturbing the nest(empty or otherwise) when adding or removing the female. You may damage the nest either by touching it, causing ripples on the water, or by the wind caused by the movement of your hands(less likely but possible).
 * 1) 5-10 gallon aquarium without sand or gravel
 * 2) Soft fish net to fish out your breeder bettas when the time comes
 * Styrofoam cup cut in half to contain the bubble nest
 * 1) Thermometer - to monitor your tank's temperature
 * 2) 2 floating plastic plants or other hiding places- to provide protective hiding place for unready female and fry
 * 3) Either Plexiglass, Glass, hood or light - must cover the entire tank...those that do not should be covered with saran wrap. This traps in moist humid air which helps fry's labyrinth develop correctly.
 * 4) Aquarium Heater - should be fully submersible including cord. 25W would be adequate.
 * 5) 1 oz of brine shrimp eggs so you can hatch then and feed your fry as they grow
 * 6) Microworm culture - from breeder
 * 7) 1 Siphon hose to clean your fry tank and vacuum uneaten foods before they rot and cause bacterial outbreaks, which might kill fry. Note: when using siphon hose, use care not to vacuum out fry.
 * 8) Water conditioner

A bigger tank also means a bigger nest. It should be noted however that the bigger tank has more fry inside.

Foilage: Plants with lots of leaves or branches. This is so that the female can run and hide from the male. When she is ready she will not run and hide so no worries there. This will also allow the growth of foods that are small enough for the betta fries to consume.

Food: Microscopic food for babies and high protein foods for breeding parents. For the adults, foods like bloodworms, tubifex worms, brine shrimp (frozen, dried, live). You should feed the parents rich foods 1-2 weeks before breeding (Part of conditioning). For fry infusoria, microworms and baby brine shrimp.

Aeration: A small corner or sponge filter,barely bubbling. These bettas need calm waters else the nest will break. Later on though, the fry will need to have VERY LIGHT aeration in their tank. This is to help in breaking the surface of the water.

Temperature: Tropical water temperatures. 78-84F People in non tropical climates may need a heater. People who live in Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand probably won't need a heater. If you're not living in South-East Asia, you may also want to put a tight fitting cover on top of the tank to maintain the humidity and warmth that the betta fry need.

Water: Treated tap water,add aquarium salt,and the correct dose of Maroxy.

Summary: Bare tank + plants + warm temperature + water + (later on)microfoods

Conditioning
For a start, you will get better results by getting the pair into a condition good for breeding. You can feed the adult pair high protein foods like Bloodworms, Tubifex worms, small insects, (Adult)Brine Shrimp (Frozen/Dried/Live), etc...

Tank Setup
Put plants in the tank in such a way that the fish can swim around it and chase each other without catching each other too easily. These plants will also later serve as a food source for the baby bettas who will eat microscopic organisms off of it. The growth of these organisms can be stimulated also by dropping a few drops of LiquiFry No. 1 in to the tank. The LiquiFry itself also consists of tiny food particles that the fry can eat. Baby brine shrimp(BBS) are also good.

Breeding
You know the female is ready for breeding when you can see just behind the ventral fin, a white egg tube sticking out. That is an ovipositor, through which she will release eggs. This does not mean that she is ready for mating with THAT male though. It just means she's ready for breeding.

The male is almost always ready for breeding. You may see him flaring and chasing after the female. This is normal. He most probably may have also already built his nest. If you are the cautious type and are waiting for the nest to be ready before you introduce the female, do so now.

The female, may occasionally destroy the male's nest if she feels it is unsatisfactory. If she does this, remove her and let the male rebuild the nest again. Reintroduce her after he has finished building his nest. If after reintroducing her again, she still destroys his nest, you may wish to get another female, or another male.

Mating
When the female has chosen a male she will maneuver her body so that her head is facing downwards. Depending on her colors you may also see vertical stripes on her body. The female will also occasionally chase the male.

After some more chasing the male will eventually capture the female and wrap his body around hers and fertilize her eggs.

He will recover quickly and catch the eggs and put them in his nest. The female will stay motionless for a while longer. She occasionally will help by putting the eggs in the nest. DO NOT be fooled -- at times she may be eating them instead.

Note: Sometimes the male may be inexperienced and will not embrace the female properly. She will drop out of his grasp and leave him floating in a trance-like state. Do not bother them though. If mating has not occurred after 2 days you should remove the female to let her rest.

Feeding Fry
Fry need very small, live foods. Infusoria is the best and is good for the first week of the frys life, to prepare a culture put some lettuce in a bottle of treated water, add a couple of drops of LiquiFry #1. Leave it in bright light. Within 3 weeks millions of infusorians will be ready to feed. Feed only a few drops often to keep the tank clean. Hatching Brine Shrimp, you will need 1 bottle, airline tubing, rock salt, and brine shrimp eggs. Fill the bottle with treated tap water, a rock salt and brine shrimp eggs.Put in your airline tubing, and make your air flow very powerful. After 20 minutes stop the airflow. When your eggs hatch the shrimp will go to the bottom. Suck them out with a turkey baster.

Keeping the fry clean
Fry need to be kept in clean water or you may end up looking for sick betta fish help, so daily water changes are a must. A 50% water change daily is fine as long as the water being replaced is the same temperature as the original and the pH is the same.Make sure your not getting any fry.

Growout Tanks
At 3 weeks of age the fry are ready to be moved to a larger tank. The larger tank should be 20+ gallons. When moving the fry be sure to make the temperature the same and the pH the same. Do weekly water changes in the larger tank.This is not needed with a smaller spawn.

Jars
At around 8 weeks the males will show finnage and become increasingly aggressive. You should remove them and place them in individual jars. Keep the jars clean and feed the young bettas frozen foods.


text:
User:Minda315

Hello,

My name is Mindaugas Baranauskas, I'm from Vilnius, Lithuania.

title: User:Minda315


text:
Spanish/Vocabulary/Prendas de vestir

 * la ropa : clothes, clothing
 * el sombrero, la gorra : hat
 * la camisa : shirt
 * la camiseta : t-shirt
 * los pantalones : pants
 * los zapatos : shoes
 * los calcetines : socks
 * el cinturón : belt
 * la corbata : tie
 * la chaqueta : jacket
 * los guantes : gloves
 * el gorro : winter hat

title: Spanish/Vocabulary/Prendas de vestir


text:
NES Programming/Introduction

NES Programming Tutorial 1: Welcome to the machine
The recommended language for programming the NES is assembly, because the slow 8-bit processor demands it. The processor is similar to the early Intel chips, but lacks certain functions.

The 6502 processor can address up to 64 kilobytes of memory. Think of this as a continuous space that has 65536 "cells". Each "cell", or byte, can store a number from 0 to 255. The first 256 bytes of this space is known as the zero page, which the 6502 can access about slightly faster and in one less byte. The next 256 bytes are the stack. The 6502 contains 3 general-purpose registers:

Accumulator - all data movement, mathematical, and logical operations go through here.

X index register - used for general counting and pre-index memory offsetting.

Y index register - used for general counting and post-index memory offsetting.

All of these general-purpose registers can be used for any reason, but the reasons above are what they are usually used for.

These are special-feature registers.

Stack pointer - keeps track of the stack.

Processor flags / status - holds flags containing information about the result of previous instructions.

Program Counter - keeps track of where the program is executing.

There are several ways to access memory:

 * Immediate

Here, the exact value of the 8-bit number is written in the instruction. No memory accessing occurs. To denote an immediate, place a  before the number, for example

 * Absolute Addressing

The 16-bit address is stored in the instruction. Whatever at the specified memory address will be the number. For example,

 * Zero Page Addressing

Similar to absolute addressing, this method accesses an absolute address. However, this method saves a byte by only writing the low byte in the instruction. The high byte is assumed to be zero. Therefore, this method can only be used for the zero page. The following example shows the same instruction using absolute and zero page addressing.

There are more addressing modes, but for now stick with these. In case you were wondering about the s and  s, those are just names of instructions. On to the instructions!

The instructions are certain commands that tell the processor to do something. This may be move something into memory, add some numbers, jump to a different location, etc. There are 56 instructions. The instructions that are used the most will be described following.

The first instruction you will learn is. It stands for LoaD A, which copies data into register A. The data can be a number, an address, or indexed address (more on this addressing mode next tutorial). See if you figure out this one:. If you guessed LoaD X, you're right. I don't think I need to explain what's.

, the second most common instruction, stands for STore A, which stores the value of A into memory. would store the current value of A into memory address. Its counterparts include  and.

title: NES Programming/Introduction


text:
User:Geocachernemesis

Formally an administrator on Wikibooks.

I have contributed significantly to Wikibooks, Wikipedia (my user page), and Wikimedia Commons (my gallery). Additionally, I've contributed significantly to the Cookbook, adding 42 of my own images.

PS: I also have User:Geo and User:Geo. registered to me, but it is very rarely that I will contribute with them. Geo.T 13:59, 16 August 2005 (UTC)

title: User:Geocachernemesis


text:
Talk:Cell Biology/Genes/Gene expression

t-rna

On enhancers

Some work will have to be done to make this contribution more sensible and clearer. I will do the work. I will help in improving grammar and at the same time help in making an expansion on the point you have raised. Enhancers are sequence elements that activate transcriptions from many, may be, thousands of base pairs up or down the stream. They, in fact, are classically known to exert preferential stimulation of the closest bitendem promoters.

Siangla, Odhiambo 20:06, 27 June 2007 (UTC)

All of the literature I've seen uses different terminology or spellings. "prokariotes" is instead "procaryotes" or "prokaryotes". Similarly, things such as "RNA messenger (RNAm)" are called "messenger RNA (mRNA)". Is the spelling/terminology used in this article based on language from a country other than the USA?

title: Talk:Cell Biology/Genes/Gene expression


text:
Talk:History of Elven Writing Systems/Third Age

Untitled
I think the identification of the English mode samples with the supposed Westron mode is critical. J. 'mach' wust 09:38, 21 Apr 2005 (UTC)


text:
User talk:J. 'mach' wust

Feel free to leave your comments here!

title: User talk:J. 'mach' wust


text:
User:J. 'mach' wust

Came here in April 2005, mainly concerned for tengwar as seen in the History of Elven writing systems.

More usually, I can be found at wikipedia:User:J. 'mach' wust.

Please fell free to leave a comment at my talk page.

title: User:J. 'mach' wust


text:
Talk:Prolog/Cuts and Negation

I tried a new style for the code on this page (making it bold instead of the regular method). Is this better or worse than on the other pages? risk

worse
 * I agree. We should probably write some custom css for the code boxes. risk (talk) 17:56, 23 October 2008 (UTC)

title: Talk:Prolog/Cuts and Negation


text:
World Stamp Catalogue/Stamp valuation

Catalogue
Stamps are collectibles and are exchanged and traded extensively in many countries around the world.

Most postage stamps are very common either in condition used or mint (not used) condition. Fine used and mint unhinged are the two conditions most likely to be collected.

It may be hard to comprehend, but stamp catalogs exist that identify nearly every postage stamp ever created in the entire world. A collector with an interest in just one country or region may prefer a stamp catalog that describes only the stamps in the specific collecting area. For beginner collectors, a pocket catalog that identifies each stamp and lists them in chronological order may be all that is needed.

Yet it is very difficult to devine a valuation scheme in one or several currencies which reflect the true market value of any particular collectible. Therefore, the following scheme is based on scarcity (and therefore value) and a basic coding is used in this catalogue:

Stamp valuation

title: World Stamp Catalogue/Stamp valuation


text:
Talk:Do-It-Yourself/Breed siamese fighting fish

This article was originally on en: Wikipedia.

This is the original modification log:

 * 1) (cur) (last) 07:25, 21 Apr 2005 Egil (move to wikibooks)
 * 2) (cur) (last) 07:24, 21 Apr 2005 Egil (vfd)
 * 3) (cur) (last) 04:28, 4 Sep 2004 Dannown m
 * 4) (cur) (last) 12:16, 1 Apr 2004 Abigail-II m (Typo fixes)
 * 5) (cur) (last) 23:43, 23 Feb 2004 Francs2000
 * 6) (cur) (last) 20:44, 12 Feb 2004 Secretlondon (+vfd)
 * 7) (cur) (last) 20:03, 12 Feb 2004 24.50.141.66 (How to breed siamese fighting fish, also known as bettas)

Inacuracies!
I am sorry, however, this page is very inacurate. For example, the "white thing" on a female betta is not eggs, but an ovipositor! As for keeping both sexes in the same tank is a bad idea. There should only be one male and on female! Multiple females will attack one male. Multiple males would need several thousand or so gallons, and the fights between them are not only a matter of tank size, but also that they have been bred to be more aggressive and dangerous, LITERALY down to the teeth! This article, as stated before, is very inacurate.Jourdy288 (talk) 22:15, 17 December 2007 (UTC)

Accurate now!!
I did a major edit. I'm a breeder myself and fixed it :)


text:
Talk:School Science/Bell jar model lung

This article was moved from en: Wikipedia. The history log from "Bell jar model lung" contained:

* (cur) (last) 06:09, 21 Apr 2005 Egil * (cur) (last) 06:08, 21 Apr 2005 Egil * (cur) (last) 17:06, 13 Nov 2004 AtonX m (wiki image syntax) * (cur) (last) 16:51, 13 Nov 2004 AtonX m (Please help out by clicking here to fix someone else's Wiki syntax.) * (cur) (last) 12:36, 12 Jan 2004 Theresa knott (Explanation of what happens as the diapragm is pushed up) * (cur) (last) 22:23, 11 Jan 2004 Hadal (reverting deleted text) * (cur) (last) 22:18, 11 Jan 2004 66.159.173.240 * (cur) (last) 13:24, 15 Nov 2003 Reddi m   * (cur) (last) 13:24, 15 Nov 2003 Reddi m (switch side of img) * (cur) (last) 18:47, 14 Nov 2003 Reddi m   * (cur) (last) 18:47, 14 Nov 2003 Reddi m    * (cur) (last) 18:47, 14 Nov 2003 Reddi m    * (cur) (last) 18:46, 14 Nov 2003 Reddi m    * (cur) (last) 11:34, 18 Jun 2003 Theresa knott (backlinking to other school demos) * (cur) (last) 09:56, 25 Feb 2003 Theresa knott m (formatting) * (cur) (last) 09:55, 25 Feb 2003 Theresa knott m (Aligning text with picture) * (cur) (last) 09:48, 25 Feb 2003 Theresa knott * (cur) (last) 22:37, 24 Feb 2003 Theresa knott m   * (cur) (last) 22:37, 24 Feb 2003 Theresa knott * (cur) (last) 22:34, 24 Feb 2003 Theresa knott ( nowhere near finished)

jhjyhjhj
hjjyjjj

title: Talk:School Science/Bell jar model lung


text:
Talk:School Science/Demo periscope

This article was moved from en: Wikipedia. The revision log from "Demo periscode" contained:

(cur) (last) 01:51, 26 Jun 2003 Patrick (moved to "Periscope")

The revision log from "Periscope" contained at the time of the move:

 * 1) cur) (last)  04:55, 21 Apr 2005 Egil (Moved recipie to Wikibooks)
 * 2) (cur) (last) 05:14, 15 Apr 2005 Blue387 m (added categories)
 * 3) (cur) (last) 23:17, 25 Feb 2005 The Epopt (→Naval use - periscopes are SO last millenium....)
 * 4) (cur) (last) 02:16, 29 Jan 2005 209.90.162.2 (fr)
 * 5) (cur) (last) 14:40, 19 Dec 2004 80.3.0.40
 * 6) (cur) (last) 22:53, 17 Dec 2004 Quistnix m (interwiki)
 * 7) (cur) (last) 08:18, 12 Nov 2004 Moverton (add content adapted from Collier's New Encyclopedia (1921))
 * 8) (cur) (last) 17:29, 11 Jul 2004 Leonard G. m (→Naval use - ... used as a ... <= ... used to support a ....)
 * 9) (cur) (last) 05:49, 23 Jun 2004 RedWolf m (dab prism)
 * 10) (cur) (last) 03:34, 21 May 2004 Fleminra (copyedit)
 * 11) (cur) (last) 14:12, 4 May 2004 Heron (in its simplest form)
 * 12) (cur) (last) 19:19, 1 May 2004 Patrick (at a 45 degree angle with respect to the line between them,)
 * 13) (cur) (last) 19:16, 1 May 2004 Patrick (viewing in a given direction as if one is at a different position, in particular viewing in horizontal direction as if one is in a higher position.)
 * 14) (cur) (last) 19:02, 1 May 2004 Heron (more history)
 * 15) (cur) (last) 18:28, 1 May 2004 Heron m (=Method for making the demonstration periscope= copyedit)
 * 16) (cur) (last) 18:26, 1 May 2004 Heron m (=Naval use= the)
 * 17) (cur) (last) 18:26, 1 May 2004 Heron m (=Naval use= the)
 * 18) (cur) (last) 18:26, 1 May 2004 Heron m (=Naval use= the)
 * 19) (cur) (last) 18:25, 1 May 2004 Heron m (simplified first para)
 * 20) (cur) (last) 22:13, 9 Feb 2004 Maximus Rex (rm invention information which I couldn't verify)
 * 21) (cur) (last) 17:41, 5 Feb 2004 195.93.33.14
 * 22) (cur) (last) 04:04, 5 Jan 2004 EdH m (resequence, fix wording)
 * 23) (cur) (last) 06:48, 4 Jan 2004 Samw (add a paragraph on real submarine periscopes)
 * 24) (cur) (last) 17:53, 18 Dec 2003 EdH (Fist submarine application)
 * 25) (cur) (last) 18:27, 14 Nov 2003 Reddi m
 * 26) (cur) (last) 18:26, 14 Nov 2003 Reddi m
 * 27) (cur) (last) 18:25, 14 Nov 2003 Reddi m
 * 28) (cur) (last) 15:13, 14 Nov 2003 Boffy b m
 * 29) (cur) (last) 01:53, 26 Jun 2003 Patrick
 * 30) (cur) (last) 12:17, 25 Apr 2003 Snowy
 * 31) (cur) (last) 12:17, 25 Apr 2003 Snowy
 * 32) (cur) (last) 12:13, 25 Apr 2003 Snowy
 * 33) (cur) (last) 12:12, 25 Apr 2003 Snowy
 * 34) (cur) (last) 12:12, 25 Apr 2003 Snowy

Note that the Periscope article is retained, it is just a section of it that is moved

title: Talk:School Science/Demo periscope


text:
School Science/OHP coil

A large coil that can be placed on a overhead projector.

title: School Science/OHP coil


text:
Instructional Technology/Enhanced Mathematics/Graphing Calculators

Graphing functions can be a very tedious part of math curriculum, so the use of graphing calculators as a tool for instruction and discovery can be very beneficial. Graphing calculators allow students to see these visual representations without having to construct a graph by hand. This allows students more time to analyze and interpret their graphs.

The large screen that is part of a graphing calculator is also very beneficial because it allows the student to have multiple calculations on the screen to compare and contrast information. The graphing calculator can be used to generate lists of information and most have a randomization feature that help in this creation of lists.

The following websites contain resources for using graphing calculators

Graphing Calculator Tutorial

Return to Using Technology to Enhance Mathematics Instruction.


text: User talk:Physlab

title: User talk:Physlab


text:
Talk:Blender 3D: Noob to Pro/Creating a Simple Hat

=What?=

Make it look like the picture on the right my foot. How am I supposed to do that? That section needs a lot more detail.

=KDE problem=

'''(CTRL+TAB) switches desktops in Linux KDE. Need detailed instructions on how to switch between modes without using that key combination.'''

 * I run KDE at home and do not recall having this problem. I will look into it.  You can switch modes by following the instructions on this page:  http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Blender_3D:_Noob_to_Pro/Detailing_Your_Simple_Person_2

 * --Spiderworm 16:24, 21 Apr 2005 (UTC)

=Purpose of Extruding the front edges in Final Touches= I don't understand the purpose of extruding the 4 front edges of the hat. What is being accomplished? Does it have anything to do with the split seams from the doubled vertices?

Bturnip

 * You're creating a brim for the hat. A brim?  A rim?  What's it called?  Anyways, whatever you call the thing on the hat that's supposed to keep the sun out of your eyes.  --Spiderworm 22:01, 22 Apr 2005 (UTC)

 * According to my dictionary it is called a 'peak'. --Pinzo 22:17, 9 July 2005 (UTC)

Smoothing the hat
If I set the smooth to the hat it looks awful, with 12 dark lines following the edges. Does anybody know why is this? How can I get it right?--Pinzo 22:20, 9 July 2005 (UTC)

Ok, I got it. It happened that the 'spin' had the normals turned with each slice. Flipped them manually, and that's nice. Can this be avoided when spinning the hat? --Pinzo 23:17, 9 July 2005 (UTC)

 * Next time you have that problem, in Edit Mode, select all vertices and press CTRL+NKEY. It will prompt you if want to flip normals outside.  Choose yes.  --Spiderworm 00:08, 10 July 2005 (UTC)

Adding new vertices
I do not understand the needs of adding new vertices in section Creating the hat profile. After deleting three edges from the circle, it remains 9 edges, and from the image shown there are also 9 edges to build the hat.

Did I miss something or GKEY combined with RMB and AKEY are sufficient to do the job?

--Miga 10:25, 18 September 2005 (UTC)

Your not adding new vertices, more like rearranging the vertices. I really want to know whats with this... -make sure you're in Object Mode (TAB) to add the hat as a separate object. (Note: It will cause problems if you do not switch into Object Mode)-. In Object Mode my circle is made on the Z axis when it should be made on the x or y axis so I can spin the profile vertices on the z axis. I stayed in Edit Mode and had better luck with this whole hat making ordeal. And yes I'm using version 2.48

Final touches
Can this sentence be made clearer? I con't understand the last part.

You need to be in top view during extrusion so that the cap bill comes forward and not down,if it was made from the top view

= Keyboard Shortcut Mismatches result = While editting the hat, it says "Switch to Edge select mode (CTRL+TAB)". At this point, CNTL+TAB is toggling between object mode and weight painting mode, a mode I had never touched before. I'm running Mac OS X 10.4.7 with Blender 2.4.2(a?).

When in object mode, CTRL+TAB switches from object mode to weight painting mode. If you are in edit mode, it allows you to choose between edge, vertex or face select mode. So the problem i you were in object mode instead of edit mode.

HELP!
I can't find the screw option in mesh tools!
 * It's to the right of Spin and Spin Dup. For this tutorial, though, you will want Spin, not Screw.—97.95.42.33 (talk) 20:46, 15 January 2009 (UTC)

Invisible mesh
When I go to add a circle mesh, it goes into edit mode but I can't see anything. If I try to select something with a right click it flares up yellow and then goes again, leaving me with still no edges or vertices visible. So I can't make my hat! What have I done wrong?

--81.159.183.85 14:13, 12 April 2007 (UTC)

Oh Noes!
Sombody previously wrote here: I can't find mesh tools at all!

I had this same problem, and found this page this when I went searching for a solution (so I am now updating the solution, since I couldn't find it explicitly answered anywhere else...had to hunt around to find it on the Manual/Meshes page). The tutorials just says to hit f9 to get into edit mode, but it turns out that it may put you in either edit mode or in object mode when you hit f9. If you then hit the TAB key, it will toggle between these modes. In the object mode, you get the "Mesh" panel, and in the edit mode you get the "Mesh Tools" panel, which just makes you think you actually got into edit mode. Hope this helps

hat is flat
this feels like sending a message in a bottle, but here goes:

i've gone through this lesson twice now, and i still have the same problem: the hat when finished is flat as a pancake. i've looked at it from every angle, and yes it's flat. so really, it's not a hat at all -- just a flat round thing. i've paid very close attention to every detail in the instructions, and i'm sure i've done everything as instructed, but the hat has no height (or depth, of course). please help. i'm using blender 2.48.

Flat hat
Your hat is flat because you spin the curve around the wrong axis. If you choose top view it spins around th z-axis and create a pancake.Don't push NUM7 when done with the selection, push NUM1.

thank you. that works. but shouldn't someone change the instructions -- or did i misread them?

You didn't misread them... I've gone through the tutorial with the same results. I've made the necessary changes in the tutorial to include the proper views and axis information. I am not sure if the original author rotated the original circle before editing, or if it was just one of those unavoidable situations where each version of Blender does things differently. My update proceeds from the assumption that the face of the initial circle is visible in the view that the original author specified, that the other two views show only the edge, and that the original rotational orientation of the circular mesh was unchanged. It's a kludge but it will work for now, until someone with a different version of blender can address whatever differences there are.

- Update: I ran through this section of the tutorial step by step and made changes in all the references that were inconsistent, and added some more context to the troubleshooting section to take out most of the guesswork and ambiguity.

- Retraction of previous Update: After making the changes to allow the tutorial to work with Blender 2.48a, I realized it was now broken for version 2.43 and older. I reverted everything back and found a true fix for the situation, and updated the tutorial accordingly.

BIG UPDATE: == == After much work with many tutorials, I have found that nearly every difficulty such as these can be resolved by simply setting the  (i): USER PREFERENCES menu in the right way. Newer versions of Blender (such as version 2.48) can be made compatible with older tutorials by changing some important settings:

1) Find the "User preferences" window 2) Select the [EDIT METHODS] tab 3) Under the header "Add new objects", click the "Aligned to View" button. 4) Optional: For some tutorials it may also be helpful to click on the "Switch to Edit Mode" button.

Making these simple changes will "unbreak" tutorials written under Blender version 2.43, because when these older tutorials were written, new objects would automatically be oriented to whatever viewscreen orientation is being used. Version 2.48 is set to use the global axis orientations by default, which is why object orientations are so often not aligned right when following older tutorials literally... there was no way of knowing a future version of Blender would be set up to ignore when you changed from top to front to side view. Any time object rotations end up completely out of step with the older tutorials, these steps are your first best workaround.

Spins in a curvy way in 2D (wrong axis)
When I clicked Spin after following the page's instructions exactly, I got this. Why?—97.95.42.33 (talk) 02:33, 9 January 2009 (UTC)

Hat has a weird look...
Once I extruded the hat's front and followed the instructions exactly, I got this. I extruded it just as far as the picture for that showed. And it also has these weird...things outside the pink area.—97.95.42.33 (talk) 20:42, 15 January 2009 (UTC)

There is no circle!
I did Space->Add->Mesh->Circle and gave the properties according to the tutorial and hit Ok, but no circle appears anywhere. I see the name of the Circle at the bottom-right corner of the view. What gives?

Questioning use of the word "genatrix"
In the sentence, "You could use any sort of mesh object here because you're about to reshape it into a custom 2D mesh (called a genatrix) that describes ..." the word "genatrix" does not conform to the spelling of apparently the same word elsewhere in the section. Is it "genatrix" or "generatrix?" Or does "genatrix" mean something different?Mtjlt (talk) 11:57, 16 November 2010 (UTC)
 * According to my Random House dictionary, the word is "generatrix". Sorry for the confusion. --Stepheng3 (talk) 01:01, 17 November 2010 (UTC)

Practical Joke?
I believe this section of the book contains what is either an error or a practical joke.

Unless I have misread something several times, the instructions for creating a hat on this page begin by telling you to create a circle, select all the vertices in the circle and then erase them. If you do this, it means that you have created an editable object and then erased it completely leaving you with a blank page. It makes no sense.

unexpected spinning result
Hi

So after completing the hat tutorial i found a difficulty once you have "spun" the hat.

I would like some clarification. Does the hat spin around the 3d cursor? So basically the center of the hat will be where the 3d cursor is.

If so you should stipulate it in the tutorial as i got a hat that look more like a vase :P

Blender 2.61: Ctrl+LMB doesn't create vertices.
I haven't messed with the hotkey settings, and under User preferences, Add new Vertex is, in fact, defined to be ctrl+LMB - but doing so in vertex edit mode doesn't add a vertex.

Is there some weird setting that's messed up?

Create a mesh circle at the cursor, why?
After creating the mesh circle the instructions go on to the following:

The newly-created mesh should be selected. If it isn't, select it by clicking RMB  on it. Press Tab  to edit the mesh. Activate Vertex select mode. Press A  until all vertices are selected. Press X  to erase all vertices.

The adding and removal of the circle mesh seems to be an unnecessary step, which seems to have no purpose. Is the circle mesh needed ?, if not why is it added and then removed ?. This part of the tutorial is confusing and unclear. Collectionneur (discuss • contribs) 02:30, 18 December 2013 (UTC)

 * That confused me too. Maybe the steps are out of order, and you're supposed to delete the circle after creating the generatrix? I'll check the history to see if I can make sense of this... Serpinium (discuss • contribs) 10:39, 21 April 2014 (UTC)

UPDATE: I get it! You have to create a mesh in order to go into edit mode! I'll put that on the page to clear things up... Serpinium (discuss • contribs) 10:50, 21 April 2014 (UTC)


text:
Instructional Technology/Learning Management Systems/Selecting a LMS Vendor

In this section we will discuss some of the important elements to selecting an LMS Vendor. Many organizations spend millions of dollars in trying to find the right company to customize a learning management solution.

There are several different sources online that tell you how to select an LMS Vendor. Throughout the search with my employer I found various resources that were helpful. These resources provide information on defining a Learning Management System and selecting a vendor. This section will deal primarily with selecting an LMS vendor.

10 Steps to Successful Vendor Selection
1. Determine and document your business requirements 2. Research Vendors 3. Conduct Vendor Demonstrations 4. Narrow Down your Potential Vendors 5. Conduct a LMS Needs Assessment 6. Develop and Distribute the Purchase Requisition 7. Prepare for Any Cultural Changes 8. Narrow Your List and Evaluate Proposals 9. Conduct Final Presentations 10. Negotiate the Contract

Determining Business Requirements
Determining your business requirements is the most crucial step in selecting a LMS vendor. If you don't know your requirements you won't be able to effectively communicate them to vendors. Here's a few important points about your business requirements:

 * Document them - don't try to go from memory on what you think you need.
 * First began by documenting your current state - how you conduct business today.
 * Next record your future state - where you would like to be.

Consider how an LMS will help bridge the gap and enable you to meet your goals.

Researching Vendors
It is very easy to research vendors with the wealth of information that is online. However, just because you find a vendor online, how will you know that vendor will meet the needs of your company. Inside of blindly searching for a vendor, the best method is to leverage industry standards or other companies with similar goals and objectives.

Conducting Vendor Demonstrations
One of the most time consuming aspects of working with vendors is the demonstrations and presentations. Below you can find some helpful information on making this process more efficient for you. http://www.brandonhall.com/public/publications/vendordemos/vendordemos.htm

Return to Instructional Technology.

Return to Learning Management Systems.


text:
Carpentry/Fasteners/Nails

Nails
As a rule of thumb, nails should enter the second member by twice the thickness of the material you are nailing through. Example: attaching 2 pieces for 2.54cm (1 inch) hard wood together, the nail should be 5.08cm (2 inches) long. Nails come in many different types, there are CC (concrete coated), bright (these have no coating), galvanized (exactly as the name implies), sinkers, screw, and that's about it. The nail used in a project needs to be the right type i.e.; if they are to be painted over the CC will tend to bleed through so brights should be used. If the entire project is to be of treated wood, as in a deck, then screw type galv. would be a proper nail. Headless or finish nails are for inside jobs and are designed to be set (driven below surface), and the hole filled and painted over. Nails are a metal pin used with forced to drive into a material.

title: Carpentry/Fasteners/Nails


text:
Super NES Programming/SPC700 reference

=System Overview= The SPC700 is a Sony coprocessor that coordinates SNES audio. Once it is initialized with data and code sent from the SNES CPU, it manipulates the state of its accompanying digital signal processor (DSP), which produces the output audio.

SPC700 Overview
The SPC700 has 64KB of memory for code and data. Within this memory are memory-mapped registers, used for communicating with the SNES CPU, the DSP, and three available timers.

The SPC700 has 6 registers:

 * A - An 8-bit accumulator
 * X & Y - 8-bit index registers
 * SP - 8-bit stack pointer
 * PC - 16-bit program counter
 * PSW - 8-bit "Program Status Word", which stores the status flags

The Y and A registers can be paired together for some operations to form a 16-bit register with Y as the upper byte.

DSP Overview
The DSP has eight channels, each of which can play a 16-bit sound. Each of the eight channels has separate left and right stereo volume, can be played at different pitches, and can have an Attack-Decay-Sustain-Release (ADSR) envelope applied to it. A white noise source can be set to replace the sampled data on any of the eight channels. Additionally, the DSP can apply an echo to the audio. The 16-bit audio samples are read from the SPC700's 64KB memory space, where they are stored in a packed 4-bit lossily-compressed format.

SPC700 memory map

 * -  - direct page 0
 * -  - memory-mapped hardware registers
 * -  - direct page 1
 * -  - potential stack memory
 * -  - IPL ROM

Direct-page addressing
Many instructions offer an addressing mode that accesses 1-byte memory addresses in the "direct page". This addressing mode yields shorter bytecode which presumably executes faster. The direct page's upper byte is either  or , corresponding to the P bit in the PSW register.

The stack
The lower byte of the stack pointer is specified by the SP register; the upper byte is always. The stack pointer is set to  on restart by the IPL ROM and grows downward.

IPL ROM
On restart, the 64-byte chunk of memory at the end of the 64KB of RAM is initialized to the contents of the IPL ROM, which is where execution starts. The code in the IPL ROM sets the stack pointer to, zeroes the memory from   to  , and then waits for data from the SNES via the input ports.

Unknown
Anomie has done some tests with this register. A document on romhacking.net describes it.

Control

 * PC32 - Writing 1 in this bit will zero input for ports 2 and 3
 * PC10 - Writing 1 in this bit will zero input for ports 1 and 0
 * ST0-2 - These are for starting the timers.

Warning: Writing to this register will always restart/stop all of the timers.

/ DSP Registers
Writing to  sets the address of the DSP register to access. Writing to  changes the value of the register pointed to. Reading from  will return the value of the register pointed at. Writing a word to  is allowed and it can be used to simultaneously set the address and write a value to the register.

- Ports
Reading from these ports will give you the values that the SNES set at -. Values written to these registers will be viewable by the SNES using the same -. The input of these ports can be cleared using the Control register.

- Timer Settings
Registers -  are used to set the timer rate. Timers 0 & 1 have a resolution of 125 microseconds. Timer 2 has a finer resolution of ~15.6 microseconds. - are 4-bit registers containing the timer overflow count. Here is how the timers operate.

Each timer has an internal counter which is incremented at each clock input. If it equals the number in -  (depending on which timer you're using) the corresponding counter register is incremented and the internal counter is reset. The counter registers ( - ) are 4-bit registers and can be read only. Reading from them will cause them to reset back to zero. If you don't read the counters in the limited time frame then they will overflow and be cleared to zero as well. The timer must be stopped before setting the -  registers. To start a timer write to bits 0-2 of the Control register. To stop a timer, reset the bits. Take note that writing to the control register will restart the existing timers.

DSP Compression Format
The DSP plays a special ADPCM encoded sound format. The sample is made up of a series of 9 byte compression blocks. Each block holds 16 4-bit samples and a 1 byte header. 16-bit samples will get a 9/32 compression ratio, but 8-bit samples must be inflated to 16-bit before compression (giving them only 9/16 compression ratio). The first byte of each block contains the header.

Header

 * Range - This is the shift value for the data. It can be 0-12.
 * Filter - This selects the filter coefficients used in the decoding process. (see table below)
 * Loop -This bit marks the block as one that will be within a loop. The exact function of this bit is unknown, but some commercial SPC samples that I have examined have this bit set for all blocks in the sample.
 * End - This bit marks the block as the last block in the sample. The DSP channel will terminate or jump to the loop point if it reaches this block.

Data
Each block contains 8 bytes of sample data (16 signed 4-bit samples). The higher nibble in each byte contains the sample that is to be decoded before the one in the lower nibble.

Decoding Process
Here is an equation to estimate the 16-bit output of the DSP. Let y and z be the last two previously decoded samples. 'a' and 'b' are the filter coefficients selected by bits 2-3 of the header byte.

sample = S + ay + bz S is the shifted data: S = (4-bit sample) << Range

The DSP performs this procedure using minimal basic shifting operations; output accuracy won't be perfect. It also applies Gaussian interpolation to the output.

title: Super NES Programming/SPC700 reference


text:
Template:Ada/Sourceforge

File: (view, plain text, download page, browse all) Sourceforge

title: Template:Ada/Sourceforge


text:
User:Kmcolo~enwikibooks

Who am I? The ultimate question? Or just a useless, psychotic symptom inducing loop.

title: User:Kmcolo~enwikibooks


text:
User:GregRobson

I signed up here on 21st April 2004, most of my efforts are focused on Wikipedia, but whatever the Wiki - I'll help!

title: User:GregRobson


text:
User:Nikai

nikai

title: User:Nikai