text:
Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Nature/Dog Care and Training

a. Selection

For average owners, the importance of the breed is in understanding for what purpose the dog was bred and how that purpose relates to its life as a pet. Herding dogs often get a reputation for nipping, because that is the way they control animals they are herding. Retrievers require lots of regular active running and chasing. Lap dogs love to be in your lap. Dalmatians are coach dogs. As decorative as they are, if they will not have an opportunity for regular exercise, you should choose some other dog. If you like an active dog, you should get a bigger dog. If you like a more laid-back dog, get a lap dog.

You can buy a dog from a reputable dog breeder, if you are motivated to adopt by the desire for a specific type of dog or if you wish to minimize the uncertainty that often accompanies a shelter dog. You will also pay significantly more for the privilege, but welcoming a well-bred, healthy and trained dog into your home is quite a privilege, indeed! The extra cost is often small compared to the treatment of the symptoms of a genetic disorder.

Keep in mind that good, reputable breeders do not breed every cycle and may even lose money when they do have a litter. Costs they assume include

 * health and genetic testing of the mother,
 * getting the mother together with a genetically appropriate father who is also tested for health and genetic problems,
 * medical care for the mother during pregnancy and birth (including a caesarian if necessary),
 * medical and routine care for the puppies (even sick ones) for at least 8–10 weeks,
 * microchipping of each puppy, and
 * caring for any puppy that becomes homeless during its lifetime.

Buying a dog from a pet store is not recommended, as these dogs are often poorly socialized, receive no training, and are commonly weaned from their mothers and siblings too early (often 5 weeks). You usually don't know where they came from and how the previous owner treated them. If you ever see a dog in a pet store, and want to take them home and care for them, consider the following:

 * Puppies require a great deal of attention and time;
 * Training is a tedious and occasionally frustrating process;
 * Puppies normally learn bite inhibition from their mothers and littermates between 5 and 10 weeks of age so you will have to do the teaching;
 * Pet stores commonly (some would say "always") stock animals bred in puppy mills or by non-reputable breeders, in unsanitary, dangerous and inhumane conditions—and every puppy mill dog purchase perpetuates the existence of puppy mills.

Many animal welfare charities recommend adopting a dog from an animal shelter, rather than buying one at a store or from a breeder. Getting an adult dog from a shelter avoids surprises in such things as the size and temperament of your pet. They are often neutered and house-trained, too!

b. Registration
There are two ways a dog could be registered. The first of these, for purebred dogs, is with the dog's breed registry. This type of registration is done once, usually by the dog's breeder.

The second type of registration applies to all dogs, but perhaps not in all localities. Most local governments require that dogs be licensed. The owner must pay a small fee and prove that the dog has been vaccinated against the rabies virus. The government agency may issue tags that the dog is to wear on its collar. Failure to register a dog in this way when it is required can lead to stiff penalties that far exceed the cost of the nominal fee and the cost of vaccination.

c. Shots
As mentioned in part b of this requirement, vaccination against rabies is often mandated by the local government. Even if it is not mandated, it is still a good idea. When you acquire a dog, you should get documentation on the shots it has had. Do not trust the seller in this regard. If the dog does not have documentation, it is very unlikely that it has had its shots, and you may be required to get them again anyhow. A dog must be taken to a veterinarian to receive its shots. They will know which shots are required, and they will provide you with the documentation you need to get your dog registered.

Prevention
The best course of action is to prevent these parasites from infecting your dog by treating them with a preventative medicine. One such medicine is Fipronil, the active ingredient in Frontline. Another is Imidacloprid Permethrin, the active ingredient in K9 Advantix and Vectra 3D. These medicines are applied topically every month and are available with a veterinarian's prescription. Your dog's vet may advise other measures as well.

Tick Removal
If you find a tick attached to your dog, find a pair of tweezers and dip them in rubbing alcohol. Grasp the tick as near the dog's skin as possible and then gently pull. Be patient and pull firmly and with consistent force. The tick will eventually tire and release its grip. You can then either place it in a sealable container (such as a freezer bag or a jar) so that it can be analyzed by a vet, or you can destroy it by dropping it in rubbing alcohol. Wash your hands when you are finished.

When removing the tick:
 * Do not squeeze the tick's body - pull it out by grasping it near its jaws.
 * Do not twist the tick - just pull.
 * Do not try to "burn the tick out" by applying a lit match to it. This is dangerous!  It is also likely to cause the tick to disgorge bacteria into your dog's bloodstream.
 * Don't allow your dog to eat the tick (it will likely try).

Flea and Lice Removal
Fleas and lice can be combed out of your dog's hair. If your dog has an infestation you should give it a bath with flea/lice shampoo, then groom the dog with a fine comb. Finally, dip the dog in a pyrethrin dip. You will also need to treat any area where your dog has spent a lot of time (its bed, dog house, etc.) to prevent reinfestation.

b. Mention some of the diseases, pests, and worms that dogs can get.

 * Rabies: Rabies is a viral disease commonly associated with dogs, although in recent years canine rabies has been practically eliminated in North America and Europe due to extensive and often mandatory vaccination requirements. Rabies in dogs is a fatal disease transmitted by the bite of an infected mammal, such as a cat, raccoon, bat, or another dog. Animals with rabies suffer deterioration of the brain and tend to behave bizarrely and often aggressively, increasing the chances that they will bite another animal or a person and transmit the disease.
 * Distemper: Canine distemper, caused by a virus similar to the cause of measles, is a highly contagious disease that affects the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and central nervous systems. It is spread through either direct contact with respiratory excretions, through the air, or on inanimate objects such as clothing. Symptoms and signs include discharge from the eye or nose, coughing, difficulty breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures, and paralysis.
 * Kennel cough: Kennel cough is a highly contagious canine illness characterized by inflammation of the upper respiratory system. It can be caused by viral infections such as canine distemper. It is so named because the infection can spread quickly among dogs, such as in the close quarters of a kennel.
 * Fleas and Ticks: Fleas and ticks of various species can be acquired and brought home by a dog, where they can multiply and attack humans (and vice versa). This is particularly important, now that tick-borne Lyme Disease has become endemic throughout a large area, in addition to other similar diseases such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.
 * Hookworms, Tapeworms, and Roundworms: Parasites, particularly intestinal worms such as hookworms, tapeworms and roundworms, can be transmitted in a dog's feces. Some tapeworms have fleas as intermediate hosts: the worm egg must be consumed by a flea to hatch, then the infected flea must be ingested (usually by the dog while grooming itself) for the adult worm to establish itself in the intestines. The worm's eggs then pass through the intestines and adhere to the nether regions of the dog, and the cycle begins again.
 * Heart worms: As the name suggests, an infected mosquito injects a larva into the dog's skin, where it migrates to the circulatory system and takes up residence in the pulmonary arteries and heart, growing and reproducing to an alarming degree. The effects on the dog are quite predictable, cardiac failure over a year or two, leading to death. Treatment of an infected dog is difficult, involving an attempt to poison the healthy worm with arsenic compounds without killing the weakened dog, and frequently does not succeed. Prevention is much the better course, via heartworm pills which are fed to the dog and contain a compound which kills the larvae immediately upon infection without harming the dog. Often they are available combined with other parasite preventives.

c. Explain what you should do for a dog bite.
This depends on the severity of the bite. If the dog did not puncture the skin, the most important thing for you to do is correct the dog. For innocent chewing on people's hands and feet, an effective correction is to spray some bitter apple into the dog's mouth. This is available at a pet supply store, and quickly teaches the dog that biting and mouthing are not allowed.

If the skin is punctured but the injury is not severe, you will need to wash out the wound with soap and water and apply a disinfectant. The often parroted theory that a dog's mouth is clean and even promotes healing is patently false. Dogs routinely eat feces! It is therefore imperative that the wound be disinfected. The dog will also need to be corrected.

If the injury is severe, the victim may need to seek attention from a qualified medical professional. In serious attacks, the dog may need to be euthanized. If a dog is not trained properly, it may severely injure or even kill a human. If this happens, the dog will almost certainly be put down, and the owner may face legal action.

3. Describe how to housebreak a puppy.
There are two common approaches to housebreaking a puppy: crate training, and paper training. Both have their proponents and detractors. Both techniques are known to be effective, but it is best to choose one and stick with it. Switching from one technique to the other will confuse your dog and lengthen the amount of time required for housebreaking.

Crate Training
By instinct, most dogs do not want to defecate or urinate in their den. The crate is intended to be a substitute for a den.

A puppy may be kept in a crate except during feeding time or during supervised play time. When allowed to exit the crate, the puppy is taken to a soiling area to defecate or urinate.

A crate should be large enough for a puppy to be able to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. If there is too much space, the puppy might use the unoccupied end for wastes. If an owner doesn't want to buy multiple crates as the puppy grows, it's possible to block off one end of a larger crate, or to buy a crate with removable dividers.

The puppy's potty breaks must be frequent enough to avoid “accidents” since puppies have a difficult time controlling urination and defecation. Control gets better as the puppy gets older. Even an adult dog, when ill or affected by certain medications, can end up soiling the crate, making the dog uncomfortable both physically and mentally, if the owner isn't vigilant and aware of the dog's needs.

Toys and soft bedding material in the crate make it more comfortable for a dog or puppy.

A crate should not be used as a prison. Trainers advise that the crate only be closed when the owner is home. Crate training is not the same as confinement for extended periods. No dog should ever be confined to a crate beyond its ability to control its bodily functions.

Paper Training
Paper training is easier if the puppy is confined to a small space (i.e. inside a pen). Place a plastic sheet covered with a layer of newspaper (preferably 3 pages thick) on the bottom of the pen. Watch your puppy closely. When the puppy goes to the bathroom on the papers, reward him (preferably with a clicker word and a treat). Clean the dirty papers immediately (but, if you don't mind this, don't clean the plastic. Your puppy may be encouraged to continue going on the papers if it smells a little.). Gradually decrease the amount of papers in the cage until you've gone down to three pages stacked on top of each other.

Bell Training
Bell training is best used if you're training your dog to go to the bathroom outside. First, get a cow bell, a buzzer with a large, paw or nose-friendly button, or some other noise making device and teach your dog to use it.

Hang the bell near the door your dog would have to go through to get outside to his bathroom space. Smear cheese wiz on it. If the bell rings when the dog licks it off, reward him (preferably with a clicker word and a treat). Next, put the dog outside every time he licks the cheese wiz off and rings the bell. Reward the dog when he goes outside with the bell, but reward him even more if he goes to the bathroom after ringing the bell. Continue this until the dog rings the bell without the cheese wiz.

You can train the dog to push a buzzer button with his paw by placing a treat on the button. Don't let him get to the treat with his mouth. This will frustrate the dog, causing him to try to reach the treat with his paw.

Bathing
Bathing is an important part of the overall grooming process.

Brushing is often recommended before bathing, to remove dead skin and loose hair. Human shampoos are generally not recommended, due to pH differences between humans and dogs.

Here are some general steps:

 * Rinse the dog completely.
 * Apply the shampoo on dog's back. Lather well. Repeat for belly, legs and tail.
 * Short-haired dogs can be scrubbed in a circular pattern. It may be easier to wash medium-length haired with a back-and-forth motion; longer-haired dogs in the direction of hair growth.
 * A washcloth can be used to wash the dog's sensitive head and face.
 * Rinse again, holding the water with one hand as you work out the soap with another.
 * Run your hand all along the dog to remove excess water. Squeeze longer hair to remove excess water.
 * Towel-dry. Use a hair dryer on longer haired dogs, but use a very low heat setting because of the sensitivity of the dog's skin to heat.

Many use an indoor tub for dog bathing. For many home owners this can be burdensome, especially with large dogs. If you have an outside dog, chances are they may be particularly more dirty than an inside dog. Getting your large, dirty dog inside can be difficult and messy. You can always wash your dog outside with a water hose. It is important to be conscious of the outside temperature and the temperature of your outside faucet water.

It may be useful to purchase an elevated dog bath tub that brings the dog up to the level of the human, not vice versa. The ability to wash your dog without bending down or getting on your knees is not only convenient, but less stressful on your body. Many tubs also have straps to hold your dog inside the tub and prevent them from slipping and hurting themselves. A simple search for dog bath tub will reveal many providers of quality tubs especially for bathing your dog. They can also substitute for a grooming table.

Hygiene
Other areas of dog hygiene include brushing, cleaning its ears, and trimming its nails.
 * Brushing: This is especially important for long-haired dogs. Brushing will pick up loose hair from the dog and reduce shedding problems.  Have your dog sit or lie down, and use a dog brush to gently sweep through its fur.  Do not tug at tangles (it hurts!)  If you find a heavily matted area of fur that cannot be brushed out, carefully cut it out with scissors, but be very careful.  You do not want to injure your dog, and you do not want to give it a bad haircut either!
 * Cleaning the ears: This can be done with a damp paper towel. Again, you get your dog into a sitting position and begin petting it.  Scratch it around the ears, and then gently work the paper towel into the inner ear, rubbing and massaging the dog as you clean.  Do not insert the paper towel into the ear canal where you will be unable to retrieve it.  Throw the soiled paper towel away and use a new one for the other ear.
 * Trimming the claws: For this you will need a special nail trimmer made just for trimming the nails of dogs. You should be able to find one at a pet supply store.  Do not use nail trimmers made for human nails.  Carefully examine your dog's nail, looking for the quick.  If you trim it too short, you will cut into the quick, causing much pain for your dog, and causing it to bleed (sometimes profusely).  Trim the front paws first, and then if desired, trim the rear ones as well.  Dogs that spend a lot of time running on pavement or rocks will not need their nails trimmed.

5. Take full responsibility for feeding and watering a dog for two or three months.
Decide how often you will feed your dog - typically it is done once or twice per day. Be careful not to overfeed the dog, and do not give it snacks (i.e., human food) between meals. It is best to fill the dog's bowl at the same time every day - dogs love routines.

Water, on the other hand, should always be available to your dog. Keep an eye on the water dish and refill it if it is not full (even if it's only half full). You should also keep an "ear" on the water dish. When you hear your dog drinking, you should refill the dish as soon as it is convenient to do so - sooner if the dog has just been exercising.

6. Train your dog until you can successfully demonstrate the following:*
The commands listed here are very similar to the ones listed in the AKC Novice Test, which has a score of up to 200. The AKC Novice Test also include a "free heel" which is the same as a regular heel, except without a leash. See http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/LA/DrP9Nov.htm for details.

a. Heel: Your dog walks close to your left side and sits when you halt.
This can be done by holding a treat in your left hand and letting your dog smell it. Then start walking and give the command heel. If you allow the dog to nibble at the treat while you walk, he will follow along just where he is supposed to. Stop and command the dog to sit. When he complies, give him the rest of the treat.

b. Figure 8: Your dog stays close to your side without sniffing people, fire hydrants, or other dogs.
The Figure 8 is an exercise during which the trainer walks in a figure 8 around two cones while the dog heels. The dog should ignore distractions during the exercise. During the figure eight, the dog will have to walk around the cone while the trainer walks on the outside of the first circle. Then the direction changes and the dog will walk around the cone while the trainer walks along the outside of the second circle. Once the dog knows how to heel, this exercise can be practiced until the dog (and the trainer) have learned it.

c. Stand for examination: Your dog allows strangers to touch him.

 * Get your dog's attention.
 * Hold a treat to his nose and let him smell it. Move it behind his head and he will sit. (This is how you teach sit by the way).
 * Move the treat away from him and give the command to stand.
 * Keep moving it away until he is standing.
 * Give him plenty of praise (and the treat).
 * Practice.
 * When the dog seems to know stand, drop the treat on the floor.
 * Do not allow the dog to get the treat until you release him (by saying "OK!")
 * If the dog goes for the treat before the release, take it away. Then give the stand command again.

In the AKC Novice Test, the "stranger" is the judge.

d. Recall: Your dog comes when called, sits directly in front of you, and moves to your left side on command.
For this action, the command is either "front" or "come." To train a dog to come when called, get a treat, and get the dog's attention. Tell her "come" or "front," perhaps even using her name: "Come, Penny!" When she comes, give her the treat. When the dog seems to "get" this, have her sit on your left before giving her the treat. You can do this by getting her to follow her nose for the treat - just move it around until she is next to you, then move the treat over her head as when teaching "sit". Do not praise the dog or give her the treat until she sits, but then give her the treat, and pour on the praise. Practice until she can do this easily.

Do not use this command anytime you wish to confine the dog or to scold her. If your dog is misbehaving and you tell her to come - and then you punish her - she will be very confused. In her doggy mind, she will associate the command with the punishment, as in "Uh oh! I'm in trouble! I'd better get outta here!" This is exactly the opposite of what you want.

If the dog is misbehaving, it is OK to tell her to come, but then you must not punish her.

e. Long sit and long down: Your dog stays in either position while you attend to other business.
Sit is one of the first (and easiest) commands to teach a dog. Hold a treat in your hand and get your dog's attention. Hold the treat so that she can see it and smell it, but not take it. With the dog positioned in front of you, give the command to sit. Then move the treat over the dog's head (over the ears). If the dog does not sit (which is the natural reaction), move the treat farther back. When she does sit, say OK! immediately give her the treat, and heap plenty of praise on her. Practice until the dog knows to sit when you say sit. The next step is to command the dog to sit, and then - instead of giver her the treat, place it on the floor out of her reach. If she gets up from the sit position, pop the leash and give a firm (but not angry) No and remove the treat. Do not let her take the treat until you say OK! which is the release command. Do not make her wait for more than five seconds at first, but then practice with longer and longer delays.

Down starts out just like sit. Give the command down and hold the treat over her head until she sits. Then move the treat between her front paws. Keep pushing it underneath her chest until she lays down. Then release (say OK!) and giver her the treat. Again, practice until she has this down. Then instead of giving her the treat, place it out of her reach, as you did with sit. Do not allow her to get the treat until you give the release.

====* If at all possible, dogs and handlers should get instructions from a qualified teacher, preferably in a class. A certificate of completion of training in any dog obedience class with a qualifying score of 170 out of the possible 200 will be accepted for this honor.====


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Nature/Dogs

1. Give the scientific name of the dog family.
The scientific name of the dog family is Canidae, or Canine.

2. Name five distinctive characteristics of the dog family.

 * 1) Canines have 42 teeth.
 * 2) They walk on their toes.
 * 3) They have four claws on their hind feet, and five on the front.
 * 4) They have two coats - an outer coat of coarse hair, and an inner coat of fine hair.
 * 5) They have a keen sense of smell.
 * 6) They have excellent hearing due to ear flaps called leathers.
 * 7) They can see colors but not as clearly as we can.

3. Identify from pictures or personal observation five wild members of the dog family.
We present here several species of fox, but as the instructor, you should feel free to present them as one "member." This is also true of the jackal.

Dhole
The dhole or Asiatic Wild Dog (Cuon alpinus) is about the size of a border collie (12–18 kg), but looks quite different. The coat is usually a rusty red colour, but varies regionally from sandy yellow to dark grey. See our dhole map page for details of regional colour variation (frame-compliant browsers only). Usually it has a black bushy tail and white patches on its chest, paws and belly. Its ears are rounded, and its hooded amber eyes portray an intelligent nature.

Within the canid family the dhole is something of an enigma. It doesn't fit neatly into any of the sub-families (i.e. the foxes or wolf-like dogs) and is classified in a genus of its own - Cuon. Among its unusual features is a strange whistle call which it uses to re-assemble the pack when animals become separated in dense forest. The dhole also has more teets than most other dogs and has a shorter jaw with one less molar on each side of its lower jaw.t

4. Identify from pictures or personal observation 25 different breeds of dogs.
The South Pacific Division has revised this requirement and reduced to 15 different breeds of dogs.

When teaching this honour point out the 7 different categories of dogs as viewed by a kennel club (some kennel clubs in other countries may have different categories) : Toy, Terrier, Gundog, Hound, Working, Utility, Non Sporting. See if they can identify dogs from each of these to make the honour more relevant.

Several dog breeds are presented here, but this is by no means an exhaustive list. No toy dog breeds are presented here as they can be found in requirement 9.

5. Name five contributions the dog family has made to man.

 * Companion animals.
 * Seeing-eye dogs help the blind gain independence.
 * Watchdogs protect property (and their owners).
 * Hunting dogs help retrieve and flush out game.
 * Sled dogs are used as transportation.
 * Dogs herd cattle, sheep and other livestock.
 * They can be used to follow a scent trail, whether to catch a criminal or find a missing person.
 * They can detect explosives.
 * They are used to search through earthquake rubble for victims.

6. Give the name of the smallest and largest breed of dog.
The smallest breed of dog is the Chihuahua. Many breeds can claim to be the "largest" depending on how "largest" is defined. The tallest is the Irish Wolfhound, but it is outweighed by the Mastiff, the Great Dane, and the Saint Bernard. The heaviest of these is the Saint Bernard.

a. Seeing-eye
Seeing-eye dogs, or guide dogs are assistance dogs trained to lead blind or visually impaired people around obstacles. The human half of the guide dog team does the directing, based upon skills acquired through previous mobility training. The handler might be likened to an aircraft's navigator, who must know how to get from one place to another, and the dog is the pilot, who gets them there safely.

Despite regulations or rules that deny access to animals in restaurants and other public places, in many countries, guide dogs and other types of assistance dogs are protected by law, and therefore may accompany their handlers most places that are open to the public.

b. Saint Bernard
The ancestors of the St. Bernard are the herding dogs of Swiss farmers as well as hunting dogs and watchdogs. Their history has also been connected with the hospice at the Great St. Bernard Pass.

The most famous Saint Bernard to save people at the pass was Barry, who reportedly saved somewhere between 40 and 100 lives. There is a monument to Barry in the Cimetière des Chiens, and his body was preserved in the Natural History Museum in Berne, Switzerland.

The classic St. Bernard looked very different from the St. Bernard of today, as an avalanche killed off many of the dogs used for its breeding. Breeders crossed the remaining dogs with other dogs, but in the process they lost much of their use as rescue dogs.

c. Shepherd
A shepherd dog is a type of domestic dog whose original purpose was to herd or guard sheep, though they have been used for other types of livestock as well. A herding dog will keep a herd or flock of animals together and help a farmer direct them from one place to another (such as from a sheep fold to a pasture). They will also guard livestock from predators.

d. Collie
Collies are a type of shepherd dog. Some say the Border Collie is the most intelligent breed of dog.

e. Eskimo
The Eskimo Dog, otherwise known as the Qimmiq (Inuit for "dog"), or what is considered to be the more culturally sensitive Canadian Inuit Dog, is the largest breed of Arctic dog commonly found pulling sleds for their Inuit counterparts. However, as snowmobiles tend to be faster and more efficient, the Eskimo Dog is now a rare breed.

8. Write or tell what special contribution dogs have made to man in wartime.
Dogs have been used by the military since ancient times. They have been used:
 * To sniff out landmines
 * To carry messages
 * As sentries
 * As scouts to detect booby-traps
 * As attack dogs in battle

10. What is the only dog that has a wholly blue or black tongue?
The Chow chow.

11. Which is the fastest-running dog?
The matter of which dog breed is the fastest is a matter of dispute. Some say the Saluki, and others say the Greyhound.

12. Which member of the "toy" dogs has become the most popular?
The Yorkshire Terrier  is currently the most popular breed of toy dog, and the third most popular dog breed overall (nearly overtaking the Golden Retriever for second place in 2005).

The answer to this question will vary country to country and change in different era's. Labrador Retrievers are still New Zealand's most popular dogs according to 2006 registrations with the NZ Kennel Club.10th Chihuahuas (long coat) (no change from 2005, was 15th in 2004). The Chihuahua is the most popular Toy Dog in New Zealand as of 2005. Different areas of a country may have a more popular breed of dog. So you need to expect a wide variation in answers to this question. Personally at present in my part of the country (NZ) the Bichon Frise.

13. What dog has been especially helpful in tracking criminals?
The Bloodhound has been used extensively to track the scent not only of criminals, but also of lost children and even adults suffering from dementia.

The Australian Police use the German Shepherd for tracking criminals and lost people. Many years ago they did use Bloodhounds but found them too difficult to use tracking a criminal as this breed is a large dog and the handler has to lift the dog over fences so they do not use them anymore.

The New Zealand Police Dog teams and Search and Rescue teams use the German Shepherd for general roles but use the Labrador Retrievers for more specialist roles.

The United Kingdom used to use the Bloodhound for tracking criminals. Their size was certainly an effective deterrent. But in practice the Bloodhound when it caught up with the offender rushed up knocked him over and wanted to play. They do not grab with the jaw of stand over the offender to subdue him. These dogs are not good around young children unsupervised. They do not realize their own size and strength and usually end up hurting or scaring the child. The Police in the UK no longer use this breed they have changed to mainly using the German Shepherd.

14. Write or tell a dog story.
As the instructor it will be up to you to moderate the story-telling event, or to encourage the Pathfinders to write their essays. The more extroverted Pathfinders in your group may prefer to tell the stories, while the introverted ones may prefer to write theirs. Allow each Pathfinder to choose which method they will use.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Adventist Youth Honors Answer Book/Nature/Eucalypts

1. How many different species of Eucalypts have been named in Australia?
There are three genera of eucalypts identified by scientists:
 * 1) Eucalyptus which includes more than seven hundred species,
 * 2) Corymbia which includes 113 species, and
 * 3) Angophora which includes 10 species.

So the total number of eucalypts is greater than 823.

2a. Where does the name Eucalypt come from? 2b. To what family do Eucalypts belong?
The name eucalypt comes from the Greek, ευκάλυπτος meaning "Well covered."

The eucalypts belong to the Myrtaceae or Myrtle family. Other members of the myrtle family include myrtle, clove, guava, feijoa, and allspice.

3a. In what other parts of the world do Eucalypts grow?3b. In how many are they indigenous to that country?
Eucalyptus are mostly native to Australia, with a very small number native to three other countries; New Guinea, Indonesia, and the Philippines islands.

Many Eucalyptus have been planted in various parts of the world including the dry regions of Southern California and in Africa, Spain, South America, and on forestry plantations in India and China.

4a. Which country has the tallest Hardwood? 4b. Where is it growing? 4c. How tall is it? 4d. Which country has the tallest flowering trees?
Eucalyptus regnans, known variously by the common names Mountain Ash, Victorian Ash, Swamp Gum, Tasmanian Oak or Stringy Gum, is a species of Eucalyptus native to southeastern Australia, in Tasmania and Victoria. It is known to attain heights over 295 feet (90 metres) and is described as the tallest of the flowering plants.

5. Into what groups are Eucalypts divided and what feature is used for this purpose?
There are many ways to divide eucalypts into groups, but the most basic is by their habit. In botany, the term habit is used most often to describe the general appearance, growth form, or architecture, of a plant. Eucalypts come in three habits:
 * Mallee: Mallee is the growth habit of woody plants that grow with multiple stems springing from an underground lignotuber, usually to a height of no more than ten meters.
 * Mallet: Unlike the mallee, the mallet habit is single-stemmed and lacks a lignotuber. Trees of this form have a slender trunk, steeply-angled branches and sometimes form thickets.
 * Marlock: Like the mallet habit, the marlock habit is single-stemmed and lacks a lignotuber. It has a dense canopy of leaves which often extends to near ground level.

a. Frequent bush fires?
On warm days vaporized eucalyptus oil rises above the bush to create the characteristic distant blue haze of the Australian landscape. Eucalyptus oil is highly flammable (trees have been known to explode) and bush fires can travel easily through the oil-rich air of the tree crowns. The dead bark and fallen branches are also flammable. Eucalypts are well adapted for periodic fires, in fact most species are dependent on them for spread and regeneration. They do this via lignotubers, epicormic buds under the bark and from fire-germinated seeds sprouting in the ashes.

A lignotuber is a starchy swelling on underground stems or roots. Jarrah and mallee plants use them as a life support system in case of fire or animal damage. They are able to sprout back from buds on the surface of the lignotuber. This is known as coppicing.

Eucalypts regenerate quickly after fire. After the Canberra bushfires of 2003, hectares of imported species were killed, but in a matter of weeks the gum trees were putting out suckers and looking generally healthy.

b. Arid regions?
Many Eucalyptus species have a tendency to drop entire branches off as they grow. Eucalyptus forests are littered with dead branches. Many people have been killed as they camped underneath the trees. It is thought the trees shed very large branches to conserve water during periods of drought.

7a. From what species do they extract Eucalyptus oil? 7b. Where is it done in Australia?
The Blue mallee, or Blue-leaved mallee (Eucalyptus polybractea) is a small multi-trunked sclerophyll tree that grows naturally in western New South Wales and Victoria, Australia. E. polybractea is the major species used to produce high grade cineole-rich (up to 91% 1,8-cineole) Eucalyptus oil, yielding 0.7-5% fresh weight. The oil is primarily used medicinally and for flavoring.

Eucalyptol (another name for the oil), is produced in Victoria, Australia in the regions of St. Arnaud, Inglewood, and Wedderburn.

8. Name ways in which Eucalypts help man, animals, birds, insects.
Because of its pleasant spicy aroma and taste, eucalyptol is used in flavorings, fragrances, and cosmetics. It is also an ingredient in many brands of mouthwash and cough suppressant. Eucalyptol has also been found to be able to kill leukaemic cells.

Eucalyptus oil contains compounds that are powerful natural disinfectants and which can be toxic in large quantities. Several marsupial herbivores, notably koalas and some possums, are relatively tolerant of it. The close correlation of these oils with other more potent toxins allows koalas and other marsupial species to make food choices based on the smell of the leaves.

Eucalyptus flowers produce a great abundance of nectar, providing food for many pollinators including insects, birds, bats and possums.

It is one of many compounds that is attractive to males of various species of orchid bees, who apparently gather the chemical to synthesize pheromones; it is commonly used as bait to attract and collect these bees for study.

The Karri and the Yellow box varieties are important sources of wood for lumber. Due to their fast growth the foremost benefit of these trees is the wood. They provide many desirable characteristics for use as ornament, timber, firewood and pulpwood. Fast growth also makes eucalypts suitable as windbreaks. Eucalypts draw a tremendous amount of water from the soil through the process of transpiration. They have been planted (or re-planted) in some places to lower the water table and reduce soil salination. Eucalypts have also been used as a way of reducing malaria by draining the soil in Algeria, Sicily, Europe, and California.

Eucalyptus is also used to make the digeridoo, a musical wind instrument made popular by the Aborigines of Australia.

All parts of the eucalyptus may be used to make plant dyes that are substantive on protein fibers (silk and wool) simply by processing the plant part with water. Colors to be achieved range from yellow and orange through green, tan, chocolate and deep rust red. The material remaining after processing can be safely used as mulch.

9. Make a collection of 15 different species of Eucalypts that you can identify and draw or trace or collect the fruit of each showing date and place and name of collector.
For this requirement, you will need to visit a place where Eucalypts grow, such as Australia or California. You will also need a field guide to help you identify the various eucalypt species. Here are some suggested publications that might be useful:

 * Know Your Own Trees: A Short Introduction to the Study of Our Common Eucalypts
 * Australian eucalypts: A selection of over 80 tree studies with notes on characteristics, identification, uses and cultivation
 * Eucalypts: A Bushwalker's Guide from Newcastle to Wollongong
 * The Urban Tree Book: An Uncommon Field Guide for City and Town


text:
Graphic Design/Planning

Brainstorming
There are many ways of brainstorming and each person develops a adapted method for themselves. The method below is just one of many ways to find idea.

Word List Method

 * 1) Sit down with a pencil and several sheets of paper. Make a list of words that indicate emotions or ideas you want to convey;
 * 2) *leave lots of space.
 * 3) On another page make a hierarchical list of words related to the subject of the design.
 * 4) Using these two lists, free associate anything that pops into your head two to five levels deep.
 * 5) *This is not the time to rule things out.
 * 6) When the page is full and your mind is empty, squeeze another page out, frequently your best results will come only after you have gotten all the clichés out, and have to stretch to think of something.
 * 7) *Now you have between two and five pages of raw ideas.
 * 8) Refinement level one (collection)
 * 9) Pick one word from the first list and three unrelated words off the second list.
 * 10) Make a quick and dirty thumbnail sketch of the design that that collection of words makes you think of.
 * 11) Repeat 20-50 times (seriously, nobody gets brilliance every time, this is a numbers game.)
 * 12) *This is not the time to rule things out.
 * 13) Refinement level two (selection)
 * 14) *Now start ruling things out.
 * 15) Select the best three thumbnails
 * 16) Work up a colored pencil comp for each of them.
 * 17) *Sanity check, are all three worth pursuing? If not, go back and repeat any of the above steps until you have three outstanding comps.
 * 18) Refinement level three (Create the final product)
 * 19) Select a word from the first list (emotions and ideas to convey).
 * 20) *It does not need to be the same one you selected for the thumbnail.
 * 21) Organize the entire design around that one word.
 * 22) *Color choices, font choices, pictures or illustrations, the shape of blocks of text
 * 23) *Choice of medium (paper shape, size, type, quality, and color; T-shirt color, quality, and sleeve length; Giant foam finger color; other medium?)
 * 24) *What colors of inks? CMYK? black and metallic silver?
 * 25) *use that word to help you make every decision relating to this design.
 * 26) Refinement level 4 (Polish to a high shine)
 * 27) *Are all headlines adequately kerned?
 * 28) *Is everything aligned to a grid? Do you have an incredibly compelling reason for abandoning the grid?
 * 29) *Are there any orphans or widows?
 * 30) *Ask a small child what they would do differently. They haven't developed the habit of most adults of protecting your feelings.

title: Graphic Design/Planning


text:
User:Tangmo~enwikibooks

This is my nickname. I live in northern Thailand. Now I'm a high school student. I just want to write and edit Thai books in Wikibook with correct information from native Thai.

title: User:Tangmo~enwikibooks


text:
French/Lessons/Agreement of past participles with avoir

Règle de grammaire
Past participles that take the auxiliary verb avoir sometimes agree (in gender and number) with the direct object of the verb, depending where the latter is put:

 * If the direct object comes BEFORE the past participle, then the latter must AGREE with the object.
 * If the direct object comes AFTER the past participle, then the latter DOESN'T AGREE with the object.

 * 1) J'ai tué la vache que l'on m'a donnée
 * (the object, vache, comes before the verb a donné and therefore the past participle takes an extra -e to agree with the feminine vache)
 * 1) On m'a donné la vache.
 * 2) Nous avons vu de belles filles
 * 3) Les filles que nous avons vues étaient belles.

Rappel: les pronoms directs et indirects

 * 1) Le, la and les are all direct object pronouns, as well as me, te, vous and nous when these are used DIRECTLY (ex.  Je l'ai mangé, tu m'as aimé - because these mean J'ai mangé lui, tu as aimé moi - no prepositions.)
 * 2) However, lui and leur are always indirect, as well as me, te, nous and vous used INDIRECTLY - with a preposition, 'with you', 'to me' etc. (ex. Tu lui as parlé, on m'a donné le pain - because here what is meant is Tu as parlé à lui, on a donné le pain à moi - they are not direct as they are preceded by à)

 * NOTE: For verbs like mis and appris that already end in -s, there is no need to add another ending when making them masculine plural. Therefore we say Le fait qu'il a appris, les faits qu'il a appris BUT La chose qu'il a apprise & Les choses qu'il a apprises.


text:
User talk:TakuyaMurata

Hello and welcome to Wikibooks!

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Functional Analysis
Hi!

I was wondering about the Corollary from the page that you extensively worked on Functional_Analysis/Geometry_of_Banach_spaces "The closed unit ball of \mathcal{X} (resp. \mathcal{X}^*) is weakly closed (resp. weak-* closed)." In order to use the preceding theorem (i.e. Mazur's theorem) to derive the weak* portion of the corollary, wouldn't we need for the weak topology on X* to equal the weak* topology on X* ?

Thanks!

Selfworm (discuss • contribs) 02:35, 14 January 2012 (UTC)

If you have a moment to vote
There are two administrators (HerbyThyme and myself) currently asking for checkuser rights. Checkuser is a tool used to help clean up and discourage vandalism on wikibooks, allowing us to block IP addresses that are used by vandals, while at the same time letting us be sure we don't accidentally block a good contributor who might be sharing that IP address.

The place to vote is Requests_for_adminship (for Herby) and Requests_for_adminship (for me). Unlike most tool requests, Checkuser is required to have a minimum of 25 votes, since this tool is given by Wikimedia stewards, rather than local users. Thanks for contributing to Wikibooks! -- SB_Johnny | talk 14:40, 29 December 2006 (UTC)

Abstract Algebra and Differential Equations
I see that you have done great work on the Functional Analysis Book, and I think that you might be able to help on the Abstract Algebra and the Differential Equations books which are currently in a state of neglect. I think that it may be important to improve these books.--A (talk) 23:43, 4 August 2008 (UTC)

Do not redirect subjects to bookshelves
Do not redirect subjects to bookshelves. The bookshelves have progressively been deleted and redirected to subjects, not the other way around. I consider what you did to Subject:Mathematics vandalism and so I ask that you not do that again. Please leave any concerns at Reading room/General. -- Adrignola talk contribs 02:10, 6 July 2009 (UTC)

 * (Reply to Adrignola.) For what it is worth, the fact that we are switching from bookshelves to subjects is poorly advertised to editors. I don't think there was any intentional vandalism here.  Particularly not from an TakuyaMurata who has been making positive contributions to many of the books on the topic of mathematics for years.  Maybe we should have one of those little banners you have to dismiss after log in saying, "Hey guess what we are doing...". At least mention it on the announcement board (not that this really gets much traffic). Just remember to assume good faith.Thenub314 (talk) 08:07, 6 July 2009 (UTC)

 * (Comment to TakuyaMurata) Hi, I am particularly disappointed with the mathematics subject page. I have been hoping to make it more like the bookshelf page, but it is not clear how people feel about this.  I thought I would draw your attention to a thread in the reading room, here.

 * I also wanted to revive the long long dead WikiProject Mathematics project, just as a place to discuss mathematics related issues. This is perhaps more of a daydream then anything else but I thought I would draw your attention to it.  Keep up your recent good work at Functional analysis, it hasn't gone unnoticed. Thenub314 (talk) 08:07, 6 July 2009 (UTC)

 * Ok, apparently some editors want to abandon bookshelves and switch to a new organization system. I really don't understand why. Subject:Mathematics looks far inferior to Mathematics bookshelf. Why switch? But more important, you can just force people to switch to the new system. You first need to establish the consensus. There wasn't any vote or polls, for example. -- Taku (talk) 12:02, 6 July 2009 (UTC)

 * Let me start over. Nobody's vandalizing anything; let's just get on the same page with this. There was a very involved discussion on this. It was just so long ago that people have forgotten about it. See Reading_room/Archives/2007/November. This was not my idea in the first place, as you'll see this was before I even began here. I also requested comments at Reading_room/General before the links were changed. I finally discussed the issue in IRC where two other administrators agreed that the main page should be changed to "be bold". Consensus either way cannot be established if people do not participate. I may indeed create a sitenotice if that is what it take to get people involved. Otherwise, I can only assume they do not care either way. The momentum was toward subjects. If there's something wrong with them, please provide particulars (and hopefully solutions) so they can be the improvement they were supposed to be. -- Adrignola talk contribs 13:00, 6 July 2009 (UTC)

Basic Algebra
This book needs to comply with Naming policy, which requires books to be title-cased. There is already a book named Basic Algebra, so this book needs to be renamed to something else. -- Adrignola talk contribs 14:02, 30 May 2010 (UTC)

 * For what it is worth I have moved the book to Introduction to Rings and Algebras. This was just a quick something I picked glancing at the TOC but not reading the book, rename it if there is something you feel is more appropriate. Thenub314 (talk) 15:36, 22 June 2010 (UTC)

title: User talk:TakuyaMurata


text:
User talk:Uvgroovy

Hello and welcome to Wikibooks!

Here are some tips to help you get started:
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You will find more resources in Community Portal. If you want to ask a question, visit the Study help desk, the Staff lounge, IRC channel or ask me personally on my talk page.

Good luck! -- Herby talk thyme 10:01, 2 December 2006 (UTC)

WikiProject Mathematics
I was attempting to restart the Mathematics Project here at wikibooks. The aim is simply to provide some community for the editors interested in improving the mathematics coverage here. Give a place to discuss issues with wikibooks (such as "hey this won't TeX correctly" or "how do I make a nice picture"); or actual mathematics content. I noticed your recent correction at the Topology book, and your long history of work there and I thought you might be interested in knowing about the project. Thenub314 (talk) 08:01, 2 July 2010 (UTC)

title: User talk:Uvgroovy


text:
User talk:Tangmo~enwikibooks

Hello and welcome to Wikibooks!

Here are some tips to help you get started:
 * You can sign your name on Talk and vote pages using four tildes, like this: ~~~~.
 * Remember to conduct any editing experiments in the sandbox.
 * If you're a Wikipedian, see Wikibooks for Wikipedians for a primer on how things work here (it's a little different).
 * If you want to base your work here on materials from Wikipedia, please use WB:RFI to bring the material over in compliance with the GFDL.
 * If you're an instructor and plan on using wikibooks for a class project, see Guidelines for class projects
 * Please say hello at the Staff Lounge with any questions or ideas.
 * Eventually, you might want to read the Manual of Style and Policies and Guidelines.
 * Please take a look at Naming policy before starting a new book.
 * Remember to maintain a Neutral point of view.
 * Explore, be bold in editing pages, and have fun!

You will find more resources in Community Portal. If you want to ask a question, visit the Study help desk, the Staff lounge, IRC channel or ask me personally on my talk page.

Good luck! -- Herby talk thyme 10:46, 2 December 2006 (UTC)

Wikibooks Newsletter, Volume 1
(Wikibooks gazette home | Discuss | Bulletin board | Subscription list)

This is a short newsletter that is being distributed to all active wikibookians. You are getting this message because you are recognized as an established contributor to the project. This newsletter will be distributed on a regular basis to help share news, information, and tips. It comes from a bot account, User:The Staff. User:The Staff is currently operated by a team of wikibooks admins, the complete list of which is available on the user page of the bot. If you would like to not receive this newletter anymore, please remove your name from the list at Active wikibookians.

The work you do at Wikibooks is greatly appreciated. However there are plenty of other opportunities for you to get involved and help us to create a thriving Wikibooks community. We are sure that there are things we can do to help you and your understanding of Wikibooks and similarly there are certainly things you could do to help Wikibooks become a better place.

We would like to ask all wikibookians to add the Bulletin Board to your watchlists. The Bulletin Board is a fast and easy way for wikibookians to communicate important news and events to the entire community. If you have important news to share with the community, you can feel free to add your own entry to that page.

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Sometimes it is easy to forget that the Wikibooks community is much larger and more diverse then the people who work in a single book, or on a single bookshelf. Hopefully, together we can all make Wikibooks a better place, and a more valuable educational resource.

The Staff 04:17, 19 December 2006 (UTC)

Your account will be renamed
Hello,

The developer team at Wikimedia is making some changes to how accounts work, as part of our on-going efforts to provide new and better tools for our users like cross-wiki notifications. These changes will mean you have the same account name everywhere. This will let us give you new features that will help you edit and discuss better, and allow more flexible user permissions for tools. One of the side-effects of this is that user accounts will now have to be unique across all 900 Wikimedia wikis. See the announcement for more information.

Unfortunately, your account clashes with another account also called Tangmo. To make sure that both of you can use all Wikimedia projects in future, we have reserved the name Tangmo~enwikibooks that only you will have. If you like it, you don't have to do anything. If you do not like it, you can pick out a different name.

Your account will still work as before, and you will be credited for all your edits made so far, but you will have to use the new account name when you log in.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Yours, Keegan Peterzell Community Liaison, Wikimedia Foundation 23:45, 17 March 2015 (UTC)

Renamed
 This account has been renamed as part of single-user login finalisation. If you own this account you can |log in using your previous username and password for more information. If you do not like this account's new name, you can choose your own using this form after logging in: . -- Keegan (WMF) (talk) 05:35, 19 April 2015 (UTC)

title: User talk:Tangmo~enwikibooks


text:
User talk:Second officer~enwikibooks

Hello and welcome to Wikibooks!

Here are some tips to help you get started:
 * You can sign your name on Talk and vote pages using four tildes, like this: ~~~~.
 * Remember to conduct any editing experiments in the sandbox.
 * If you're a Wikipedian, see Wikibooks for Wikipedians for a primer on how things work here (it's a little different).
 * If you want to base your work here on materials from Wikipedia, please use WB:RFI to bring the material over in compliance with the GFDL.
 * If you're an instructor and plan on using wikibooks for a class project, see Guidelines for class projects
 * Please say hello at the Staff Lounge with any questions or ideas.
 * Eventually, you might want to read the Manual of Style and Policies and Guidelines.
 * Please take a look at Naming policy before starting a new book.
 * Remember to maintain a Neutral point of view.
 * Explore, be bold in editing pages, and have fun!

You will find more resources in Community Portal. If you want to ask a question, visit the Study help desk, the Staff lounge, IRC channel or ask me personally on my talk page.

Good luck! -- Herby talk thyme 10:51, 2 December 2006 (UTC)

Your account will be renamed
Hello,

The developer team at Wikimedia is making some changes to how accounts work, as part of our on-going efforts to provide new and better tools for our users like cross-wiki notifications. These changes will mean you have the same account name everywhere. This will let us give you new features that will help you edit and discuss better, and allow more flexible user permissions for tools. One of the side-effects of this is that user accounts will now have to be unique across all 900 Wikimedia wikis. See the announcement for more information.

Unfortunately, your account clashes with another account also called Second officer. To make sure that both of you can use all Wikimedia projects in future, we have reserved the name Second officer~enwikibooks that only you will have. If you like it, you don't have to do anything. If you do not like it, you can pick out a different name.

Your account will still work as before, and you will be credited for all your edits made so far, but you will have to use the new account name when you log in.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Yours, Keegan Peterzell Community Liaison, Wikimedia Foundation 23:40, 17 March 2015 (UTC)

Renamed
 This account has been renamed as part of single-user login finalisation. If you own this account you can |log in using your previous username and password for more information. If you do not like this account's new name, you can choose your own using this form after logging in: . -- Keegan (WMF) (talk) 05:28, 19 April 2015 (UTC)

title: User talk:Second officer~enwikibooks


text:
User talk:Goulo

Hello and welcome to Wikibooks!

Here are some tips to help you get started:
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 * Remember to conduct any editing experiments in the sandbox.
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 * If you're an instructor and plan on using wikibooks for a class project, see Guidelines for class projects
 * Please say hello at the Staff Lounge with any questions or ideas.
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 * Please take a look at Naming policy before starting a new book.
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You will find more resources in Community Portal. If you want to ask a question, visit the Study help desk, the Staff lounge, IRC channel or ask me personally on my talk page.

Good luck! -- Herby talk thyme 11:38, 2 December 2006 (UTC)

Your account will be renamed
Hello,

The developer team at Wikimedia is making some changes to how accounts work, as part of our on-going efforts to provide new and better tools for our users like cross-wiki notifications. These changes will mean you have the same account name everywhere. This will let us give you new features that will help you edit and discuss better, and allow more flexible user permissions for tools. One of the side-effects of this is that user accounts will now have to be unique across all 900 Wikimedia wikis. See the announcement for more information.

Unfortunately, your account clashes with another account also called Goulo. To make sure that both of you can use all Wikimedia projects in future, we have reserved the name Goulo~enwikibooks that only you will have. If you like it, you don't have to do anything. If you do not like it, you can pick out a different name.

Your account will still work as before, and you will be credited for all your edits made so far, but you will have to use the new account name when you log in.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Yours, Keegan Peterzell Community Liaison, Wikimedia Foundation 23:15, 17 March 2015 (UTC)

title: User talk:Goulo


text:
Category:Maintenance templates

Templates relating to maintenance tasks.

title: Category:Maintenance templates


text:
When It Hits the Fan/Personal Strategies and Know-how/Fire

Fire
Fire is probably humans' first technology. It is a cornerstone on our evolution as a species and how we manage to adapt to many distinct environments. It permits not only to warm ourselves, light the dark, serve as a weapon or communication device, but to make food more digestible, to clear fields, to break stone and work metals. Nothing has so much importance to mankind that this simple chemical reaction.

Light, Signaling and Security
Fire is also an easy to create source of light, in a dark environment and at night where it also permits safer movements. The light and smoke can serve also as a signaling device. It is very rare for small contained fires to occur naturally, so fire can also be an indication of human presence.

One can also use fire as a weapon or a dissuader for wild life, most wild animals will have an instinctual fear of fire. This fear is mostly due to learned experiences and is mostly based on smell, the negation of cover, the novelty and heat may also be a factor.

Natural occurrence
A fire is also a natural disaster that may destroy ecosystems like grasslands, forests causing great loss of life, property, livestock and wildlife. Bush and forest fires are generally started by lightning, but also by human negligence or arson.

Arson
Arson is the premeditated intent of setting a fire with intent to cause damage. The definition of arson was originally limited to setting fire to buildings, but was later expanded to include other objects, such as bridges, vehicles, and private property. Arson is the greatest cause of fires in data repositories. (See )

Campfire
A campfire is a fire lit at a campsite, usually in a fire ring. Campfires are a popular feature of camping, particularly among organized campers such as Scouts or Guides. Without proper precautions they are also potentially dangerous. A certain degree of skill is needed to properly build a campfire, to keep it going, and to see that it is properly extinguished.

A campfire have serves three primary objectives.
 * Heat - For warmth and preparation of food and tool preparation.
 * Security - Fire is a weapon and a dissuader, especially against wildlife. Most animals fear fire.
 * Light source - Visibility and signalling. Light and smoke are extremely good for calling attention and mark a presence.

The dangers
A campfire may burn out of control in two basic ways: on the ground or in the trees. Dead leaves or pine needles on the ground may ignite from direct contact with burning wood, or from thermal radiation. Alternatively, airborne embers (or their smaller kin, sparks) may ignite dead material in overhanging branches. This latter threat is less likely, but a fire in a branch will be virtually impossible to put out without firefighting equipment, and may spread more quickly than a ground fire.

Embers may simply fall off of logs and be carried away by the air, or they may be ejected at high speed by exploding pockets of sap. With these dangers in mind, some places prohibit all open fires, particularly during times of the year that are prone to wildfires.

Campfires are prohibited in many public camping areas. Public areas with large tracts of woodland usually have signs indicating the level of fire danger, which usually depends on recent rain and the amount of deadfalls or dry debris; when the danger is highest, all open fires are prohibited. Even in safer times, it is common to require registration and permits to build a campfire. Such areas are often kept under observation by rangers, who will dispatch someone to investigate any unidentified plume of smoke.

Finding a site, and other safety measures
Ideally, every fire should be lit in a fire ring. If a fire ring is not available, a temporary fire site may be constructed. One way is to cover the ground with sand, or other soil mostly free of flammable organic material, to a depth of a few centimeters. The area of sand should be large enough to safely contain the fire and any pieces of burning wood that may fall out of it. Sand piles should be scattered after the fire has been put out. If the topsoil is moist, it may suffice to simply clear it of any dead plant matter.

Fire rings, however, do not fully protect material on the ground from catching fire. Flying embers are still a threat, and the fire ring may become hot enough to ignite material in contact with it.

No fire should be lit close to trees, tents or other fire hazards. This includes overhanging branches; some carry dead, dry material that can ignite from a single airborne ember. In addition, a fire may harm any roots under it, even if they are protected by a thin layer of soil. Conifers run a greater risk of root damage, because they lack taproots and their roots run close to the surface.

Fires also should not be lit on bare rocks. The ash will leave a black stain that cannot be easily removed, but the fire's heat can lead to more dramatic consequences. It will cause the outer layer of the rock to expand, possibly causing it to crack. It may also boil pockets of water contained in the rock.

An additional safety measure is to have sand and water on hand to smother and douse the fire if it does get out of the fire pit. It is wise to gather these materials before they are actually needed.

Types of fuel
There are, by conventional classification, three types of material involved in building a fire without manufactured fuels.

 * 1) Tinder is anything that can be lit with a match. The best natural tinder is dead, dry pine needles or grass; a more comprehensive list is given in the article on tinder. A quantity of tinder sufficient to fill one's cupped hands to the top is the bare minimum needed.
 * 2) Kindling is an arbitrary classification including anything bigger than tinder but smaller than fuelwood. In fact, there are gradations of kindling, from sticks thinner than a finger to those as thick as a wrist. A quantity of kindling sufficient to fill a hat may be enough, but more is better.
 * 3) Fuelwood ranges from small logs two or three inches across to larger logs that can burn for hours. It is typically impossible to gather without a hatchet or other cutting tool, so fuelwood must usually be brought from home or purchased at a nearby store.

The gathering of fuel in natural areas is often restricted. Cutting of living trees is almost always forbidden - but neither is it very useful, because sap-filled wood does not burn well. Squaw wood (dead parts of standing trees) may also be prohibited. Wood lying on the ground is usually permitted.

Different Builds for fire
Having found a suitable site and gathered materials, the fire-builder has a variety of designs to choose from. A good design is very important in the early stages of a fire. Most of them make no mention of fuel-wood - in most designs, fuel-wood is never placed on a fire until the kindling is burning strongly.

 * The tipi fire-build is perhaps the best, but it is takes some patience to construct. First, the tinder is piled up in a compact heap. The smaller kindling is arranged around it, like the poles of a tipi. For added strength, it may be possible to lash some of the sticks together. A tripod lashing is quite difficult to execute with small sticks, so a clove hitch should suffice. (Synthetic rope should be avoided, since it produces pollutants when it burns.) Then the larger kindling is arranged above the smaller kindling, taking care not to collapse the tipi. A separate tipi as a shell around the first one may work better.

 * A lean-to fire-build starts with the same pile of tinder as the tipi fire-build. Then, a long, thick piece of kindling is driven into the ground at an angle, so that it overhangs the tinder pile. The smaller pieces of kindling are leaned against the big stick so that the tinder is enclosed between them.

 * A log cabin fire-build likewise begins with a tinder pile. The kindling is then stacked around it, as in the construction of a log cabin. The first two kindling sticks are laid parallel to each other, on opposite sides of the tinder pile. The second pair is laid on top of the first, at right angles to it, and also on opposite sides of the tinder. More kindling is added in the same manner. The smallest kindling is placed over the top of the assembly. Of all the fire-builds, the log cabin is the least vulnerable to premature collapse, but it is also inefficient, because it makes the worst use of convection to ignite progressively larger pieces of fuel.

 * A variation on the log cabin starts with two pieces of fuelwood with a pile of tinder between them, and small kindling laid over the tops of the logs, above the tinder. The tinder is lit, and the kindling is allowed to catch fire. When it is burning briskly, it is broken and pushed down into the consumed tinder, and the larger kindling is placed over the top of the logs. When that is burning well, it is also pushed down. Eventually, a pile of kindling should be burning between two pieces of fuelwood. The logs will eventually catch fire from it.

 * Another variation is called the funeral pyre method because it is used for building funeral pyres. Its main difference from the standard log cabin is that it starts with thin pieces and moves up to thick pieces. If built on a large scale, this type of fire-build collapses in a controlled manner without restricting the air flow.

 * The traditional Finnish rakovalkea (literally "slit bonfire") is constructed by placing one long piece of fuelwood atop another, parallel and bolstering them in place with four sturdy posts driven into the ground. (Traditionally, whole unsplit tree trunks are used for the fuelwood.) Kindling and tinder are placed between the logs in sufficient quantity (while avoiding the very ends) to raise the upper log and allow ventilation. The tinder is always lit at the center so the bolstering posts do not burn prematurely. The rakovalkea has two excellent features. First, it burns slowly but steadily when lit; it does not require ardous maintenance, but burns for a very long time. A well constructed rakovalkea of two thick logs of two meters in length can warm two lean-to shelters for a whole sleeping shift. The construction means that the logs themselves act as wind-cover! Thus, exposure to smoke is unlikely for the sleepers; nevertheless someone should always watch in case of an emergency. Second, it can be easily scaled to larger sizes (for a feast) limited only by the length of available tree trunks.

Lighting the fire
Once the fire is built, the next step is to light the tinder, using either a match or a lighter. A reasonably skillful fire-builder using reasonably good material will only need one match. The tinder will burn brightly, but be reduced to glowing embers within half a minute. If the kindling does not catch fire, the fire-builder must gather more tinder, determine what went wrong and try to fix it.

One of five problems can prevent a fire from lighting properly: wet wood, wet weather, too little tinder, too much wind, or a lack of oxygen. Rain will, of course, douse a fire, but a combination of wind and fog also has a stifling effect. Metal fire rings generally do a good job of keeping out wind, but some of them are so high as to impede the circulation of oxygen in a small fire. To make matters worse, these tall fire rings also make it very difficult to blow on the fire properly.

Steady, forceful blowing may be in order for a small fire in an enclosed space that has mysteriously slowed down, but blowing may extinguish a fire if it is done abruptly or when it is not needed. Most large fires easily create their own circulation, even in unfavorable conditions, but the variant log-cabin fire-build suffers from a chronic lack of air so long as the initial structure is maintained.

Once the large kindling is burning, all of the kindling should be put on the fire, save for one piece at least a foot long. This piece is useful later to push pieces of fuelwood where they are needed. Once all of the kindling is burning, the fuelwood should be placed on top of it (unless, as in the rakovalkea fire-build, it is already there). For best results, two or more pieces of fuelwood should be leaned against each other, as in the tipi fire-build.

Campfire activities

Campfires have been used for cooking since time immemorial. However, portable stoves  have all but replaced campfires in this regard. For cooking information, see cooking on a campfire. Other practical, though not commonly needed, applications for campfires include drying wet clothing, alleviating hypothermia and use as a distress signal.

Most campfires, though, are lit exclusively for recreation. People tend to find something fascinating about flames and glowing coals, so a campfire is usually an agreeable way to pass the time from dusk to bedtime, particularly for those in a pensive mood. Campfires are also good venues for intimate conversation and storytelling; yarns and stories about poltergeists are particularly popular.

Having the control of fire is also a good moral booster, people fell safer by all the benefits that a fire provides.

Without matches
There are several ways to light a fire without any matches. All of them work with only the lightest and most flammable tinder, such as paper.

 * On a sunny day, a lens may be used to focus the light onto the tinder. The most suitable lenses are magnifying glasses (included in some compasses), but eyeglasses may also suffice.
 * The "bow and drill" method is also well-known, but it is a lot of work. The bow is similar to that used for archery. To make such a bow, find a thin rope or flexible but sturdy vine, and a sturdy stick about two feet long. Tie the rope to one end of the stick, and make another knot on the other end of the stick, with the rope between the ends not quite taut. The drill is another straight stick, thin but strong, preferably stripped of bark and with a sharpened end. The center of the bowstring (rope) is wrapped around the drill, with the two sticks at right angles to each other. The end of the drill is placed on a piece of bark in the middle of the tinder. The bow is moved rapidly back and forth to rotate the drill and create heat and friction on the bark. This method works best with an assistant feeding the tinder to the hot spot.
 * The crudest method of igniting a fire is to strike two hard objects (at least one of them combustible) together to produce a spark, and ignite tinder from the spark. The substances traditionally used to produce sparks are flint and either steel or pyrite. Replacing the steel with ferrocerium (lighter "flint") produces more sparks with less effort. Rotting wood (punkwood) or charred fuel are sometimes used as tinder when using this method.

Charpaper
Charpaper is used in starting a fire with flint and steel. It is traditionally made from cotton that has been processed into charcoal. When a spark comes into contact with charpaper, it makes the charpaper glow, but the charpaper will not ignite. After the charpaper glows, you put it against your tender and blow.

To make charpaper, you need some cotton material. Cut it into approximately 2 inch squares. You then place 5-15 pieces of the cloth into a metal can that can be sealed. You will want to punch a small hole into the top and bottom of the can, in order to allow the gases to escape. You then place the can contain the cloth into a fire. you can have it in open flames or in hot coals, or even in the end stages of the fire. The hotter the fire, the faster the cloth will be transformed. you will want to roll the can in the fire to evenly cook the cloth, and continue to do so until you stop seeing gases coming from the holes in the can. When the gases stop coming out, you want to take the can out of the fire, and place something on the can to block the holes. a rock or piece of wood will do fine. You then want to let the can cool down for at least 5 minutes. This ensures that when you open the can, the char paper doesn't get consumed from the sudden introduction of oxygen. Once the can has cooled, remove the lid, and remove the pieces of charcloth. You want to make sure that they are completely blackened, if any of the original color from the cloth is still evident, you will want to cook that cloth again. This is because the cloth has not been completely burnt, and will ignite instead of holding a spark. The flame resulting from such an ignition is very fast, and would be difficult to utilize in building a fire.

If you want to make some, you can use an altoids can, an old t-shirt, and a campfire.

Fire transportation
At times it may be unpractical to spend the efforts of restarting a fire from scratch. If fire is already available there are various methods of transporting fire, this will depend on materials available and time between the restarting the process.

Extinguishing fire
Leaving a fire unattended is dangerous! Any number of accidents might occur in the absence of people, leading to property damage, personal injury or possibly a wildfire. Ash is a very good insulator, so embers left overnight will only lose a fraction of their heat.

Large amounts of water are indispensable for extinguishing a fire. To properly cool a fire, water should be poured on all the embers, including places that are not glowing red. The water will boil violently and carry ash in the air with it, dirtying anything nearby but not posing a safety hazard. The water should be poured until the hissing noises stop. Then the ashes should be stirred with a stick to make sure that the water has penetrated all the layers; if the hissing continues, more water should be added. A fire is fully extinguished if the ashes are cool to the touch.

If water is scarce, sand may be used. The sand will deprive the fire of oxygen quite well, but it is much less effective than water at absorbing heat. Once the fire has been covered thoroughly with sand, all water that can be spared should be poured on it, and the sand stirred into the ash.

Finally, in lightly-used wilderness areas, it is best to replace anything that was moved while preparing the fire site, and scatter anything that was gathered, so that it looks as natural as possible.


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Outdoor Survival/First Aid

Wilderness first aid is the provision of first aid under conditions where the arrival of emergency responders or the patient evacuation may be delayed due to constraints of terrain, weather, and available persons or equipment. It may be necessary to care for an injured person for several hours or days.

In the United States and United Kingdom, Wilderness First Aid (WFA) is the name of a certification in wilderness medicine that covers wilderness first aid; depending on the laws applicable where it is practiced, it may impose specific responsibilities and confer specific immunities on duly-diligent practitioners. For instance, the practicing of certain rules of WFA, by someone certified in the usual "street" First Aid discipline but not in WFA (or a higher Wilderness Medicine qualification), could result in civil liability or perhaps even criminal prosecution.

A classic problem is whether to leave an injured person or stay if only one person is ambulatory. Barring special circumstances, the injured one should be stabilized, placed in shelter, and marked in a way visible from the air (usually a single, long line of cut brush or trampled snow). Then the injured one should be left alone, while the other goes for help.

If there are three or more, the healthy group should be split into halves by speed, with the fastest going for help, and the others remaining to make the preparations. (In a party of four, it would be a rare hiker who would be better sent for help alone, rather than sent in a sub-party of two.)

Ensuring the rescuers can find the injured person is crucial. If a Emergency Position-Indicating Radio Beacon is available, it should be triggered and placed with the injured person. If enough help is available, air-visible markings may be worthwhile. Where surveyor's tape is available within the party (and assuming clear trails are available), it should be used by the sub-party going for help, to back up memory and notes with tape-flagging of the toward-the-injury-location choices of trail at intersections. (When an injury location is off clear trails, by distances that make it impractical to keep blazes of tape within sight of each other, forks in watercourses should be treated as substitutes for trail intersections.)

Training in wilderness first aid is available in the US and UK. Any group of persons traveling in wilderness should have at least one person trained in wilderness first aid and carry a first aid kit designed for the area they are traveling in.

Nursing care is not part of normal first aid but is part of wilderness first aid.

Exposure
Exposure, sometimes called hypothermia, is a normal hazard of temperate wilderness. It occurs when a person's core body temperature falls below 33.7C (92.6F). If a person is wet, in a mild wind, it can occur in less than an hour at temperatures as high as 15°C (59°F).

The basic early symptoms are uncontrollable shivering, stiffness and confusion. The conclusive evidence is a cool or cold stomach. If the hypothermia has not yet advanced to a critical stage, basic treatment is to warm the person in a sleeping bag. People with hypothermia may have such depressed metabolisms that they can no longer heat themselves. However, if the hypothermia has become severe - the victim is confused or unconscious - it is critical not to warm them suddenly. Evacuation would be the preferred option, with warming undertaken in a controlled medical environment. Sudden warming of a severely hypothermic person can send the heart into a fatal, irregular beating pattern or arrhythmia.

Heat syncope: heat exhaustion or sunstroke
Both maladies tend to occur during heavy exercise in high humidity, or with inadequate water. Some chronically ill persons enter these state normally.

The basic symptom of heat syncope is a body temperature above 40°C (104°F) with fainting, or weakness but without mental confusion. If unconsciousness, confusion or convulsions are present, it is sunstroke which is rarer, but far more severe condition, a true medical emergency.

Note that some authorities do not distinguish heat syncope from sunstroke, and treat heat syncope as sunstroke in order to be safe. All authorities recognize that these are stages in the same process.

Heat syncope is caused by mild overheating with inadequate water or salt. In young persons, it is far more common than true sunstroke. Blood pressure is lowered when the body dilates (widens) capillaries (small blood vessels) in the skin to radiate heat. Also, water is evaporated from the blood, reducing the blood's volume and therefore lowering blood pressure further. The result is less blood to the brain, causing light-headedness and fainting.

The basic treatment for heat syncope is to treat it like fainting: Have the victim sit, if sitting lay down, if laying down, raise legs. Then, administer water, and oral rehydration salt, slowly, and move the victim to a cooler area.

With sunstroke, cool the victim. Remove their clothing, shade them, fan them and sponge with cool water. Massage limbs vigorously to move cooled blood into the body cavity. Ice or alcohol can cause damage. Get help immediately. Sunstroke, especially when the victim has been unconscious, often causes major damage to body systems such as brain, kidney, liver, gastric tract. Unconsciousness for more than two hours usually leads to permanent disability.

Cramps
There are two basic causes of cramping. One is inadequate oxygenation of muscle, and the other is lack of water or salt. Cramps from poor oxygenation can be improved by rapid deep breathing, and stretching the muscle. Cramps from lack of salt and water can be treated by stretching the muscle, drinking water and eating salt. Pounding on the muscle can increase soreness.

What happens in a cramp is that lactic acid builds up because of normal anaerobic muscle metabolism. When the muscle burns sugar without enough oxygen, it makes lactic acid. The lactic acid finally becomes concentrated enough to trigger the contraction of the muscle. When the muscle lacks salt, the nerves firing the muscle are unable to recharge properly, causing a similar effect.

Insect and animal bite
Most animal bites should be considered as possible sources of infection, including rabies. Wash the wound, ideally with povidone iodine soap. Loosely bandage it, and do not suture it. Know the venomous animals in your area.

Animal bites by carnivores other than rodents should be considered possible cases of Rabies. If you are bitten, try to capture alive or kill the animal and preserve its head. Look for signs of Rabies (foaming mouth, self-mutilation, growling, jerky behavior, red eyes). If the animal lives for ten days and does not develop rabies, then no infection has probably occurred. The head can later be analyzed to detect the disease.

If the animal is gone, prophylactic Rabies treatment is recommended in most places. Certain places, such as Hawaii, are known not to have native Rabies. Treatment is generally available in North America, Britain and the Northern European states. Away from these areas, try to get to the nearest embassy of one of these states and indicate an acute medical emergency. The embassy doctor is usually willing and able to help.

Many snakebites, even by venomous snakes, are not envenomed, and these can be treated as animal bites. Croatilid (rattlesnake and pit-viper) venoms cause the bitten area to turn green or purple. Elapsid (coral and monay other non-U.S. snakes) venoms cause swollen lymph nodes. If symptoms appear, they should be treated by compressing and cooling the bite(many say the bite should not be cooled, http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/995_snakes.html) and evacuating the victim, on a litter if possible. If a victim is unable to reach medical care within 30 minutes, a bandage, wrapped two to four inches above the bite, may help slow venom. The bandage should not cut off blood flow from a vein or artery. A good rule of thumb is to make the band loose enough that a finger can slip under it(American Red Cross, FDA/Office of Public Affairs:http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/995_snakes.html). If available, antivenom should be administered. See below for phone numbers to locate antivenoms.

The black widow spider, and some scorpions are dangerous mostly to small children and elderly adults. Only the Sydney funnel-web spider of Australia is frequently dangerous to adults, and it resides only within 100 miles of Sydney Australia. Treat as snake-bite. Antivenins are available in the U.S. for black widow spiders and the dangerous scorpions native to the U.S.

To locate antivenims, the Anti-venim index in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, United States (1-405-271-5454) maintains a 24-hour hotline to help locate rare antivenims. Another possible number is the Poisondex central office in Denver, Colorado, USA (1-800-332-3073). In Australia, contact Commonwealth Serum Laboratories, Parkville, Victoria, Australia. In Asia try Haffkine Biopharmaceutical Corporation, Parel, Bombay, India. In Africa try the South African Institute for Medical Research, Johannesburg, Republic of South Africa. In most moderately developed countries, the national hospital can treat local venomous bites.

Anaphylactic shock
Insect bites as well as exposure to allergens can trigger anaphylaxis in some people. Anaphylaxis is a life-threatening medical emergency because of rapid constriction of the airway, often within minutes of onset. Call for help immediately. First aid for anaphylaxis consists of obtaining advanced medical care at once; rescue breathing (a skill that is part of Cardiopulmonary resuscitation, or CPR) is likely to be ineffective but should be attempted if the victim stops breathing. Look to see if a device such as an Epi-pen is available for administration of epinephrine by a layperson.

Altitude sickness
Altitude sickness can begin in susceptible people as low as 8,000ft. The early symptoms are drowsiness, feeling unwell, and weakness, especially during exercise. More severe symptoms are headache, poor sleep, persistent rapid pulse, nausea and sometimes vomiting, especially in children. More severe symptoms include pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs- persistent coughing), confusion, psychosis, hallucination and death.

Victims can sometimes control mild altitude sickness by consciously taking ten to twelve rapid large breaths every five minutes. If overdone, this can blowoff too much carbon dioxide and cause tingling in the extremities of the body. The quickest cure is to reduce the victim's altitude if possible. Some mountain rescue groups carry acetazolamide (a prescription drug) to treat mountain sickness, injectable steroids to reduce pulmonary edema, and inflatable pressure vessels to relieve and evacuate severe mountain-sick persons.

Altitude acclimatization has two stages. Overnight, the body can adjust its carbonic acid balance, and substantially improve its performance. Over four to six weeks, the body can grow more blood cells, strengthen the heart and make other tissue changes. Above 18,000ft, further altitude exposure weakens one, rather than strengthening one's acclimation.

Wounds
Wounds with spurting, bright red blood require immediate pressure to stop the bleeding. If necessary, you may need to use your finger to push on the bleeding artery.

Follow this with a pressure bandage so you can rest, but make sure the wound is not continuing to bleed into the bandage. Oozing, slower wounds can be treated the same way, but it's reasonable to clean them first.

Antibiotic ointment, if available, is helpful if medical care is many hours away. It should be spread freely on wounds. Some authorities even advocate gently packing it into deep, dirty, slowly-bleeding wounds.

Some authorities believe that it is better not to change dressings, if the dressing change does not include good quality cleaning and debridement. Otherwise, dressings should be changed at least daily.

If sterile normal saline is available, it is useful for rinsing most dirt out of wounds.

Regardless of the severity of the wound, proper cleaning and disinfection is essential on longer stays in the wilderness where an evacuation is not deemed necessary or is not possible. Relatively harmless local infections at the wound site can quickly escalate into life-threatening systemic infections if proper care is not taken. Some WFA courses provide instruction on the proper administering of antibiotic drugs to help treat serious infections.

Sucking chest wounds
See open pneumothorax. A person with a penetrating chest wound is experiencing a life-threatening medical emergency and needs immediate access to advanced medical care and equipment to save their life. One standard first-aid treatment is to cover the wound with a pressure bandage made air-tight with petroleum jelly or clean plastic sheeting. It is important not to completely close off the opening. Leave a flap or corner open so that air does not build up in the lungs yet the patient can still breathe.

Fractures
Stabilize the break with splints, and move the injured party as little as possible unless they are certain to die from lack of shelter or care. The object is to prevent the bone from causing more injuries. If the skin is broken, treat it as a major wound.

Broken ribs are stabilized with tape. A person with a broken arm, collarbone or ribs can often be stabilized enough to walk out, however large amounts of pain indicate this is a bad idea. Waxed cardboard splints are inexpensive, very lightweight, quite waterproof and quite strong.

Toothache
The basic treatment is oil of cloves on packing in the sore tooth to reduce the pain. Systemic antibiotics and analgesic such as acetaminophen (paracetamol) or NSAIDs may also help if available. Although teeth may hurt terribly, most severe tooth infections simply result either in a dead tooth, or a tooth that falls out and are rarely life-threatening.

CPR (Cardio-Pulmonary Resuscitation)
CPR is often portrayed in movies and television as being highly effective in rususcitating a person who is not breathing and has no circulation. A 1996 study by the New England Journal of Medicine showed that CPR success rates in television shows was 75%. The reality is that CPR administered outside hospitals has a 2-15% success rate on its own, and is most importantly used to sustain oxygen supply to the brain until specialized medical equipment and personel can reach the scene (see defibrillator).

If you are performing CPR in the wilderness, you may want to stop:
 * 1) when a competent health professional takes responsibility for the patient; or
 * 2) when the rescuers are in danger.

title: Outdoor Survival/First Aid


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Bartending/Cocktails/B-Juice

B-Juice originated in Peachtree City, Georgia

Ingredients

 * 1) Two liters of Mountain-Dew
 * 2) 2 Standard size Kool-Aid packet mix (any flavor)
 * 3) Unflavored Vodka

Directions

 * 1) Pour (or drink) the Mountain-Dew down to the top of the label
 * 2) Open the Kool-Aid and dump entire contents into Mountain-Dew
 * 3) Fill the Mountain-Dew back up to original spot before step one with your choice of plain vodka
 * 4) Swirl slightly to mix, do not shake
 * 5) Enjoy

title: Bartending/Cocktails/B-Juice


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Bartending/Cocktails/Batida

Batida is one of many Brazilian cocktails made with the national alcoholic drink, called cachaça. In Portuguese batida means shaken or milkshake.

Ingredients

 * 1 part of fruit juice, coconut milk, or a mixture of both
 * 1 tablespoon sugar
 * 2 parts of cachaça

Procedure

 * 1) Place all the components in a blender and blend very briefly, just to mix all the components.
 * 2) Serve cold or in a tumbler with ice.

Variations
An optional recipe is made adding sweetened condensed milk and/or sour cream along with the fruit juice.

Like almost all of the cachaça drinks, some people prefere to replace the cachaça with vodka.

The most popular batida flavours are passion fruit and coconut.

Cocktails/ Batida de Coco Batida

title: Bartending/Cocktails/Batida


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Cookbook:Chraime (Sephardic Fish and Vegetable Casserole)

Chraime is a popular Sephardic Jewish fish and vegetable casserole often eaten as the first course at Rosh Hashanah. It can also be eaten as an entrée, and is normally served with challah.

Ingredients

 * 2 large baking potatoes
 * 2 medium red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch thick wedges
 * 5 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
 * 1 small jalapeño or other hot chili pepper, quartered and seeded
 * Salt, to taste
 * 1¼–1½ pounds of white fish fillets (e.g. sole, halibut, or cod)
 * 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
 * 3 ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
 * 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
 * 1 cup water
 * ⅓ cup olive oil
 * Coarse salt, to taste

Procedure

 * 1) In a large flame-proof casserole or Dutch oven, set the potato slices on the bottom. Scatter the bell peppers, garlic, and jalapeño pepper on the potatoes. Sprinkle with salt.  Place the fish on top and sprinkle it with paprika and salt. Add the tomatoes and cilantro or parsley.
 * 2) Pour the water in at the edges. Sprinkle the top with oil and sprinkle generously with salt.
 * 3) Set the pan over high heat, cover, and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat slightly and simmer for 25–30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and the fish is cooked through. Check the pan after 20 minutes; if there seems to be too much liquid, uncover the pan for the remaining cooking time.
 * 4) Serve hot or warm with challah.


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Bartending/Cocktails/Flaming Engineer

The Flaming Engineer is a cocktail originating at Ryerson University in Toronto, Canada, and is very popular among engineering students and in the surrounding area.

Ingredients

 * 3/4 pint Molson Canadian beer
 * 1 1/2 oz. amaretto
 * 1 1/2 oz. Canadian Club whiskey
 * orange juice

Glass
20 oz. beer mug

Procedure

 * 1) Pour the beer into the beer mug.
 * 2) Add the amaretto and the whiskey.
 * 3) Fill with orange juice.

Other Names
This drink is also known as a Billy and Dr. Boil My Gladiator

title: Bartending/Cocktails/Flaming Engineer


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Bartending/Cocktails/Jarabacoa Cocktail

A Jarabacoa is a cocktail made with spiced rum, honey, lime juice, vanilla, cinnamon, and cola. Jarabacoas are usually served in a cocktail glass or lowball.

Recipe

 * Mix 6 parts rum, 1 part honey, and 1 part lime juice; heat until honey dissolves.
 * Allow mix to cool.
 * Pour 1 part mix and 1 part cola and a few drops of vanilla extract over ice into martini shaker, shake very gently.
 * Pour into cocktail glass and garnish with a bit of cinnamon.

History
The history of the Jarabacoa cocktail is unknown, it is named after a municipality in the Dominican Republic. It is speculated that the term was coined by a traveller upon returning from a stay in Jarabacoa.

title: Bartending/Cocktails/Jarabacoa Cocktail


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Bartending/Cocktails/Lynchburg Lemonade

Named after the home town of Jack Daniels, Lynchburg, Tennessee. A Lynchburg Lemonade is a cocktail made with Jack Daniels, orange liqueur, sour mix, and any lemon-lime soda to fill. It is typically served on the rocks in a Collins glass, and garnished with a lemon or cherry.

Standard Mix

 * 1oz Jack Daniels
 * 1oz Orange liqueur (Triple-sec, or Cointreau)
 * 2oz Sour-mix
 * 4oz Lemon-Lime Soda (Sprite, or 7up)
 * Garnish: Usually a Lemon wedge or maraschino cherry

title: Bartending/Cocktails/Lynchburg Lemonade


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Bartending/Cocktails/Orgasm

An Orgasm is an alcoholic beverage, more specifically a shot/shooter. It is served in a one ounce shot glass. It consists of 1/2 ounce peppermint schnapps and 1/2 ounce Bailey's Irish Cream.

title: Bartending/Cocktails/Orgasm