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Bangkok/Dusit

Dusit (Thai: ดุสิต) is a leafy, European-style district of Bangkok that functions as the political centre of Thailand. Its development dates back to the early 1900s, when King Rama V built the Dusit Palace, a complex of palaces and royal residences he created to escape the heat and chaos of the Grand Palace. The seat of power to this day, there are numerous political institutions, international organisations and royal palaces spread throughout the district.

Understand
King Rama V was the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He was very impressed with what he had seen there, and came up with some drastic ideas to make Bangkok ready for the 20th century. Rattanakosin was a cramped district with many waterways, as opposed to Europe where broad avenues dominated cities like Paris and London. King Rama V decided that most of the original canals in Rattanakosin had to disappear in favour of roads for horse carriages. But this was only the beginning; King Rama V started designing a completely new district from scratch that had to become the "new royal city", a district with grandeur, wide avenues and a leafy, European feel. The result of this process is Dusit.

The best example of this modernization process is the Dusit Palace. It is a massive complex of royal residences and palaces in many different styles, some of them with a European feel. The Italian Renaissance-style Anantasamakhom Throne Hall dominates the stage, and right in front of it in the middle of a wide avenue stands the King Rama V Equastrian Statue, a large statue of the King himself that is beautifully adorned with garlands on Chulalongkorn Day (October 23). King Rama V is still popular among the Thai people and his modernization strategy is credited with having saved Siam from Western colonization.

It is the seat of power with nearly all of Thailand's decision-making institutions within its boundaries. Near the Dusit Palace is the National Assembly, a modern building that is the parliament of the country. South of it lies the Venetian Gothic-style Government House, which is mostly used for state ceremonies, and can only be visited once a year on Children's Day (January 9). The Amphorn Sathan Residential Hall, the primary (though not official) residence of incumbent King Vajiralongkorn, is within the Dusit Palace complex.

A good day to catch the stately feel of the district is at December 2, when Dusit hosts the annual Trooping the Colour ceremony. Hundreds of officers of the Royal Guard demonstrate their allegiance to the King by parading around Suan Amporn, which is right next to King Rama V's statue.

In 2016, it was home to 96,000 people.

Get in
Dusit is not particularly easy to reach by public transport. The Chao Phraya Express Boat serves the district, but it is still quite a hike towards the Dusit Palace from the pier. There are plenty of bus lines going through, but we all know what a hassle that is. If you're too lazy to cope with all this, you might just want to go by taxi, which is by far the easiest option.

By boat
You can enter Dusit using the Chao Phraya Express Boat service. Thewet pier is an excellent entry point into the southwestern area of Dusit. From there it is a 20 minute walk to Dusit Palace.

Orange flag boats connect Thewet with Tha Chang pier (if you're coming from the Grand Palace) and Phra Arthit pier (if you're coming from Khao San Road). From downtown, you can take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto the express boat. A single trip from Sathorn (Taksin) in Silom to Thewet takes about 40 minutes and costs 13 baht. You can take any express boat, as Thewet is among the most important stops, but the yellow flag line is the fastest one.

There are some other express boat piers in Dusit, but they are far off the interesting sights.

By bus
If you're coming from the Old City, ordinary and air-conditioned Bus 70 runs directly to the Dusit Palace. Get on it at Sanam Luang if you happen to be around the Grand Palace, or get on at Ratchadamnoen Klang Road if you happen to be around Khao San Road. Get off outside the Royal Elephant National Museum at Uthong Nai Road. To be sure, ask one the locals where to get off, or you might go too far.

From downtown, take the Skytrain to Victory Monument station. There you can take air-conditioned Bus 515 that goes straight to the Dusit Palace over Ratchawithi Road. If this is too much hassle, you can take a metered taxi instead.

See

 * The main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, touted as the world's largest golden teakwood residence and the former home of King Rama V. Get a ticket for 100 baht on the northwest side of the palace grounds, or enter for free if you still have the Grand Palace entry ticket (remains valid for a week). You can visit all the museums on the palace grounds with one ticket, except the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall and the Royal Elephant National Museum which cost an additional 50 baht. Keep in mind that the same dress codes apply here as in the Grand Palace, so leave shorts and sleeveless shirts in your hotel room. You must store your belongings in a locker before entering each museum. It's free everywhere, except at the Vimanmek Mansion, so if you're on a stringent budget, go to another museum first and leave your belongings there. The last (compulsory) tour of the Vimanmek Mansion starts around 15:15. Some of the smaller museums close at 15:30. Allow a full morning and afternoon if you want to see all the buildings and museums. Also make sure you get a map when buying the ticket, as the palace grounds are large and hard to navigate without a map.
 * The main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, touted as the world's largest golden teakwood residence and the former home of King Rama V. Get a ticket for 100 baht on the northwest side of the palace grounds, or enter for free if you still have the Grand Palace entry ticket (remains valid for a week). You can visit all the museums on the palace grounds with one ticket, except the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall and the Royal Elephant National Museum which cost an additional 50 baht. Keep in mind that the same dress codes apply here as in the Grand Palace, so leave shorts and sleeveless shirts in your hotel room. You must store your belongings in a locker before entering each museum. It's free everywhere, except at the Vimanmek Mansion, so if you're on a stringent budget, go to another museum first and leave your belongings there. The last (compulsory) tour of the Vimanmek Mansion starts around 15:15. Some of the smaller museums close at 15:30. Allow a full morning and afternoon if you want to see all the buildings and museums. Also make sure you get a map when buying the ticket, as the palace grounds are large and hard to navigate without a map.

Vimanmek Mansion Museum
Belonging to the Vimanmek Mansion Museum are the residential halls that can be visited using the Vimanmek Mansion entry ticket. In order of visit:

Separate entry fee

Temples

Do
You might want to visit one of the two daily traditional Thai dance performances at the Dusit Palace. The shows start at 10:00 and 14:00 with free entry.

Buy
There is not much in the way of shopping in Dusit, but there are a few stores that might interest you.

Eat
Dusit is not a district for splurge meals, but the river view makes a beautiful setting. The guest houses also serve decent Thai food.

Drink
Don't expect any nightlife in Dusit. For that, head off to nearby Khao San Road. If you just want to fresh up with a glass of lemonade, the guest houses in southwest Dusit suffice.

Sleep
Dusit's wide avenues and heavy traffic make it a less than compelling places to stay the night. Most budget travellers sleep in nearby Khao San Road, while upper class hotels can be found in Sukhumvit. The adjacent Siam Square has some of both worlds. If you do want to stay in Dusit, and with that try something different, some small guest houses have congregated in the southwest corner of the district, close to Thewet pier.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Bangkok/Dusit


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Bangkok/Khao San Road

Khao San Road (Thai: ถนนข้าวสาร) is a small road about a block from the Chao Phraya River at the northern side of Rattanakosin. Backpackers and budget travellers are drawn here by some of the cheapest accommodation and travel deals in Thailand. This article also deals with the wider Banglamphu area that hosts a few interesting temples, and lots more places to stay and eat.

Understand
The word khao san means milled rice and is an attribution to the historical role of this street in the rice trade. The first business to open on Khao San Road was a small hotel aimed at serving civil servants from the provinces who came to Bangkok on business. The hotel was followed by Sor Thambhakdi, a shop selling monks' accessories. Four similar businesses moved in after, and Khao San became known as a "religious road".

Word soon spread about the easy lifestyle and friendliness of the locals. Friends told friends, and before long, the owner of the house started to charge 20 baht for food and lodging. The first commercial guest house, called Bonny, opened in 1982 with six small bedrooms.

Today, there's a lot more than six small bedrooms on offer. The hippy, laid-back, and budget Khao San Road of the past has long given away to its now highly commercial and tourist-centric atmosphere. This is the epicentre of the Banana Pancake Trail. In the span of just a couple of blocks, there are bars, food stalls, restaurants, convenience stores, pharmacies, internet cafes, money changing booths, ATMs, shoe stores, massage parlours, tailors, travel agencies, laundromats, boxing gyms, optometrists, endless warrens of suspiciously discounted designer clothes and, oh, rooms for the night.

The chaos has spilled over to the entire area, including Soi Rambuttri with its little bars and restaurants that are starting to spill out onto the road; Phra Athit Road with its colonial-style mansions and riverside hotels; and Samsen Road, a quiet neighbourhood with cosy guest houses and vegetarian restaurants. It is indeed a tourist destination and can be a little unsafe at night as instances of mugging and pick-pocketing do occur.

Get in
Khao San Road is fairly easy to get to from anywhere in Bangkok. Express boats, buses and taxis are your main options. While the Skytrain and the metro are convenient ways of getting to many places in Bangkok, there is no connection to Khao San Road (or to anywhere else in Rattanakosin, for that matter). While Khao San Road is easy to get into and out of, it is quite far (30–60 minutes) from most other areas tourists will travel to in Bangkok, such as Sukhumvit or Silom.

By boat
The Chao Phraya Express Boat is the cheapest and most scenic way of getting to Khao San Road. If you're coming from the city centre, take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station, where you can transfer onto the express boat at Sathorn pier. Then ride the express boat all the way north to Phra Arthit pier, which takes about 35 minutes and costs 13 to 18 baht. Make sure to get either the orange flag line or the blue flag tourist boat, as the yellow flag line skips Phra Arthit pier completely.

If you're staying in Khao San Road, the express boat is the easiest way to get to Rattanakosin and Silom. It's only a short (but confusing) walk from Khao San Road to Phra Arthit pier. First walk to the police station side of Khao San Road, then take a right onto Chakrabongse Road and immediately a left into Soi Rambuttri. Walk until you have to take a left and then take a right into Soi Chana Songkhram. At the end, take a right into Phra Athit Road, cross the road, and look for the small sign to the express boat pier (it is near Navalai River Resort). Bring a good map, have a good sense of direction, or ask help from a local if you get lost. The main idea is to head west until you hit the river.

The most important piers are Tha Chang (for the Grand Palace), Tha Tien (for Wat Pho) and Rachawongse (for Yaowarat). All lines attend Sathorn pier, where you can transfer onto the Skytrain. From here, you can go to Silom, Siam Square, Sukhumvit and Phahonyothin. The Chao Phraya Express Boat stops running around 18:00 or 19:00 depending on the day, so you'll have to rely on other forms of transport in the evening.

The quickest (though not the most comfortable) way to get from Khao San Road to Siam Square, Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng is by Saen Saep Express Boat. The closest pier to Khao San Road is Panfa Leelard, which is near the Golden Mount and Wat Ratchanadda. There you can get on the Golden Mount Line, which is a direct boat service from Panfa Leelard to Pratunam. At that pier you can switch onto the NIDA Line, that runs from Pratunam all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung in Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Pratunam takes about 20 minutes and costs 11 baht. On the trip, you will pass the stops Talat Bobae (for the garment market of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for Jim Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square) and Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong).

By bus
The bus system in Bangkok is very complex, but as Khao San Road is not connected to the Skytrain, for some destinations you don't have a choice. Some useful bus lines for travel to/from Khao San Road include the following:

 * Ordinary bus 2 goes from Sukhumvit Road to Sanam Luang, and passes Ratchdamnoen Klang Road on the way, which is very close to Khao San Road. The route is handy for connections to the Skytrain, the metro and the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai), and it passes Pratunam on the way. 6-7 baht.
 * Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 3 goes to the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit) and passes by Chakrabongse Road (at the western side of Khao San Road). The trip costs 7 baht and takes approximately 30 minutes.
 * Ordinary bus 15 takes you from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Khao San Road) to Siam Square.
 * Ordinary bus 53 goes from Phra Athit Road near the express boat pier to Hualamphong Train Station, taking an interesting and convoluted route through Rattanakosin and Yaowarat. It costs 7 baht and takes 30 minutes or more depending on traffic.
 * Air-conditioned bus 511 travels right across the city from the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai) via Sukhumvit and Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Khao San Road) to the Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai). Warning: Ordinary (non-express) buses pass by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road, but express buses (with yellow signs) do not!
 * Air-conditioned bus 509 travels from Mor Chit Bus Terminal, passing through Victory Monument (BTS) and Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Khao San Road), terminating at Bang Khae (in Thonburi).
 * Air-conditioned buses 127 and 516 go to Southern Bus Terminal (for a fare about THB 15) from (in front of the Bononniwet temple).

From airports

The Airport Express Bus began running again in 2017.

Suvarnabhumi Airport: The S1 number bus departs from Gate 7 on the first floor of the passenger terminal every half an hour between 06:00 and 20:00 and costs 60 baht. The final stop is outside Wat Bowonniwet (Temple) and the journey takes around one hour (buses depart for the airport from the same location).

Don Muang Airport: The A4 number bus departs from Gate 6 at Terminal 1 and Gate 12 at Terminal 2 every half an hour between 07:00 and 23:00 and costs 50 baht. The final stop is outside Wat Bowonniwet (Temple) and the journey takes just under one hour (buses depart for the airport from the same location).

Another, cheap (although more complicated) option is to use a local bus to get to Khao San Road. From the airport, catch the shuttle bus for free outside door 5 (on both the upper and lower floors) to the Public Transport Interchange. From there, catch bus 551 (a white van) which will drop you off at Victory Monument for 40 baht. Then take bus 59 and get off about halfway between Khao San Road and the Democracy Monument. To get to the airport, catch bus 59, which departs from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, about halfway between Khao San Road and the Democracy Monument (look for the half-torn airplane sign on the bus stop sign). It will drop you off at Victory Monument, from where you can catch bus 551 to the Public Transport Interchange. From there, it's just a short ride with the free shuttle bus to the terminals.

Khao San Road is also the stop for some long range tourist buses from Chang Mai, Southern islands, elsewhere in Thailand, and from Siem Reap, Cambodia.

By taxi
Even some of the metered taxis will try to charge you a flat rate of about 200-300 baht to take you to Khao San Road, rather than use the meter (which would mean no more than an 80 baht fare from Silom, or 100-150 baht from Sukhumvit, or about 60 - 80 baht from Hualamphong Train Station). The drivers will claim that Khao San Road is "too far away" for the meter, but that's not true; the fact is, they can get away with overcharging tourists, and if you don't take it, the next one down the street might. You should refuse to pay that amount and find an honest driver — there is no shortage of taxis in Bangkok. There is no point trying to haggle, as the meter is always cheaper.

As a general rule, older drivers tend to be more amenable to the meters, while the younger ones tend to gun for big fares from tourists. Also avoid the parked taxis (dishonest drivers prefer to wait for gullible tourists) and hail a moving taxi (a red light on the dash board indicates if they are available). The majority of taxis are new (less than two years old), and its best to avoid the older taxis as their air-conditioners function poorly, and these drivers tend to be less reliable. The great majority of taxi drivers are reasonably honest though, so always opt for a taxi instead of a tuk-tuk.

Coming to or from the airports, a taxi is by far the easiest and quickest way to Khao San Road. A metered taxi should cost between 300-450 baht, if using the toll roads (known by Thais as toll way) which cost up to 65 baht. Traffic during the day can make the toll roads very worthwhile, as they will save time and money. The trip takes around 45 minutes in good traffic, but allow considerable leeway during rush hour as the area around Khao San can get very congested. If you arrive after midnight, expect to pay around 500 baht. This 500 baht includes all tolls, the airport fee of 50 baht and the price stated on the meter. Taxis are your only option at night, as the Airport Rail Link stops running at midnight.

From the Southern Bus Terminal the fare (including 50 baht for the toll road) is around 110 baht.

See

Although there aren't any famous historical sites to speak of on the road, Khao San is a part of Rattanakosin and actually one of the oldest neighbourhoods of Bangkok. Around the street, there are a number of old shophouses and noteworthy temples. Aside from the interesting architecture, the area shows a mix of peoples and heritages that is typical for Bangkok. There are Buddhists, Chinese, Muslims, Mons, and of course a great number of foreigners in this small part of the city. All of this makes the area an interesting place for a glimpse of Thai life.

Do
Activities on Khao San Road are not particularly high class. Many backpackers just chill out in a cafe and watch reruns of Friends while sipping a cold Chang beer. People-watching is also a major activity: this can be done in many roadside bars and pubs along Khao San Road. When all this becomes too stressful, there are plenty of massage parlours around.

Buy
Obviously the first place to go shopping is Khao San Road itself. Simple stores line up the street selling dresses, shirts, skirts, accessories, shoes, and bags, usually for a bargain. Many of these are vintage, as that's popular among the Khao San crowd. There are also the usual souvenir and handicraft stores.

Hill tribe women dressed in ethnic clothing walk up and down Khao San Road all day, usually with the croaking sounds that come from their ornamental frogs. They approach tourists all day, trying to sell them accessories, hammocks and ethnic handicrafts. They are quite friendly, and back off with a clear "no", but once they know you're interested, many of these sellers congregate around you hoping to make some profit.

Always beware of getting ripped off. Never buy anything valuable in this area as there are many scams and tricks being played. Khao San Road is home to many wholesale silver jewellery stores, but don't even think about buying there. A common scam is to ask a lot more for a gem than its real value. Touts for suits approach men walking along Khao San Road, but never go with them — getting tailored clothes in Khao San Road is a complete waste of money as quality is extremely poor. If you really want a suit, head to the city centre for better alternatives.

Other problematic products for sale include counterfeit clothes, pirated films and even fake diplomas. The authorities here don't seem to care, but you might get in trouble once you arrive in your home country. The north of Khao San Road is a good place to pick up cheap Thai knock-offs of everything, from jeans to Italian sneakers, as well as a few posh Thai silk stores. Food stalls are also abound in this area.

Books
With most travellers carrying smart phones and ipads, the once thriving second hand book scene around Khao San has all but been eliminated. However, there are still two bookstores in the area that are worth checking out: one on Susie's Walkway, which runs between Khao San and Ram Buttri Roads, and one on Ram Buttri Road, above Chakrabongse Road.

Eat
Khao San Road offers some of the cheapest and most diverse food selections anywhere in Bangkok. Travellers from all over the world attend the road, so there is a high demand for all kinds of ethnic food. Alongside the usual Thai dishes, Indian, Italian and Jewish cuisine are especially well-represented, as are restaurants specialised in vegetarian food.

Street carts on the road sell decent pad thai (fried noodles), quail eggs, roti (like a pancake), falafel, hummus, various bugs and some sell just cocktails. However, much of it is specifically geared for backpackers — even the local pad thai, especially the 10-baht variety, saves money on the ingredients and uses soy sauce instead of the traditional tamarind sauce.

As Khao San Road leaves its backpacker roots, standards (and prices) are rising. In the last ten years, many popular international food outlets have set up branches in Khao San Road, including Burger King, McDonald's and Subway. More mid-range restaurants are opened on a daily basis, but don't expect to splurge. Those looking for truly good food should to head elsewhere, such as to Sukhumvit.

Budget

Coffee
Despite primarily hosting people from coffee-drinking cultures, Khao San Road and its peripheries are totally bereft of cafes, and the few that are scattered around the area are not memorable or iconic in any sense. Phra Athit Road probably has the highest concentration in the area, though these cafes are mostly small, offering just coffee and limited snack options.

Alcohol
Khao San Road has some of the cheapest bars in town, and these days even Thais head down to knock back a few. Khao San bars are mostly about relaxing — just sitting outside, looking at people and enjoying the atmosphere. Some just walk around with a beer in their hand. A can of Chang beer is 25 baht at 7-Eleven. Worth a look are a few street side VW vans converted to mobile bars, serving cocktails made from cheap liquor.

The tourist crowd has spread to both Soi Rambuttri and Rambuttri Road in the north. Both of them have a relaxed pace great for people-watching. The bars have many seats lined up along the road and the music is slightly toned down for casual conversation. If you want to go where the locals go, there are some artsy/indie bars at Phra Athit Road and Ratchadamnoen Klang Road popular with local art students.

Nightclubs
Bangkok's nightlife has a difficult time living up to its notorious reputation — and Khao San Road in particular. While many roadside bars are open 24 hours, nightclubs close at 02:00. Always bring your passport as all nightclubs are required to check it upon entry. Mostly the backpacker/hippie crowd, so shorts and flip flips abound. If you want to see the classier crowd, you will need to leave Khaosan road. Take a taxi to Route 66 on Royal City Avenue(RCA) or Funky Villa in the Thonglo district instead.

Sleep
Khao San Road is Bangkok's main backpacker drag. Cheap new guest houses spring up and disappear on a monthly basis, therefore accommodation is hard to recommend, but there is always something available for a small budget. As hipsters and upper class folks have been starting to discover the road, it is more and more becoming an area that has accommodations for every price class.

Before checking into an unfamiliar place, always ask to see a room first, and don't be afraid to test the fan or the air-conditioning if you think you will need it. Some Khao San Road guest houses do not accept Thai guests, or any extra guests at all in some cases.

Budget
Most backpackers head straight for Khao San Road as it has the cheapest accommodation in all of Bangkok. Don't have high hopes on luxury if you're staying here. Most of these places are dark, dingy, unclean and if you're unlucky, you might have to spend the night with bedbugs. Any lodging on Khao San Road will be loud, and anything with exterior windows will get hot.

Try walking a block or two off Khao San proper to find something a little quieter. Soi Rambuttri, the small street past the police station, has reasonable guest houses, though can still be loud in the evenings. The street gets darker and quieter as it wraps around the temple grounds of Wat Chana Songkhram, where you can find some quiet guest houses. Samsen Road and the surrounding area is another escape from the noise and chaos with cheap guest houses at a further distance of the action.

Mid-range
There are several mid-range hotels in the area, with swimming pools, mini bars, etc. Mid-range covers a wide spectrum, from decent three-star hotels to upper class guest houses. Phra Athit Road is a good place to start looking, its location right beside the Chao Phraya River made it home to some more luxurious hotels.

Cope
There are plenty of places around Khao San that do your laundry. The general tariff is around 25-40 baht per kilo, and it's ready to be picked up the next day. Look around, as some laundromats even offer same-day pickup if you bring it in before 15:00. The Rambuttri Village Inn offers luggage storage for 20 baht per day.

If you don't stay at the road, toilets can be difficult to find. There is a reasonably clean one inside Buddy's Shopping Plaza — walk all the way in and take a right before entering Brick Bar. Price is 5 baht, but there are long queues at busy nights. Another public toilet can be found all the way inside Sunset Street, passing Starbucks on the left. Entry 5 baht. You can also try Burger King at the eastern end of the road.

Stay safe

Khao San Road is the worst district in Bangkok when it comes to scams and annoyances. Be very skeptical of anyone telling you that your intended destination is closed. If someone offers you a free whole-day tuk-tuk ride, smile faintly and keep on walking. If you agree to this, you probably will get a free tuk-tuk ride all day, but the only thing you will see are dozens of shops where you get tricked into buying worthless gems, while the driver gets a commission. Never enter a tuk-tuk if someone else is trying to get you into one. A recent scam involves cheap transport offers to discos, massage parlours etc. late at night. The unwary who take up these offers will find themselves dropped off on a quiet street (shortcut), where the tuk-tuk has accomplices waiting to assault and rob any gullible tourists. Better pull over a taxi yourself.

Beware of private bus companies around Khao San Road offering direct trips from Bangkok to other cities with "VIP buses". Some are reputable and will be able to provide you with a great deal, but many of them are shopfronts for scam artists and dodgy services. The so-called direct "VIP" trips may end up changing three or four uncomfortable minibuses to the destination, and the 10-11 hour trip may as well turn into 17–18 hours. Also, you are likely to be hit for extra charges for various dubious services along the way and many operators will intentionally slow down the journey so you arrive in the middle of the night and can be coaxed into choosing their guest house — invariably the crappiest place, but pays the agency the highest commissions. Worst of all, since you have paid in advance, you have no recourse of any kind when this happens. Trips to Siem Reap in Cambodia are notorious for this. You can ask around Khao San Road, as a lot of people start and end their journeys there, and use an agent which another traveller has used without any hassles. But it is probably a better idea to do the trips independently using public BKS buses from the main bus terminals.

Beware of the travel agent shops throughout Bangkok offering travel packages; day trips, and tickets to tourists attractions. Often you will be taken to one of these travel agent shops as a stop on a tuk-tuk ride but do not purchase anything from these shops as they are not regulated in anyway, do not be fooled by the 'certificates' and stamps of approval as all the shops easily forge such documents. The scammers are professionals at persuading you to believe that they are the cheaper than doing it off your own back but this is not true. South-East Asia is one of the only places in the world that it is actually effective to travel as you go, which is why large travel companies such as STA Travel do not find it worth while investing in packages in Thailand, they only offer flights and upper market hotels because it is cheaper to book accommodation, domestic travel and tourist attractions on your own and from the hostels, train stations, and tourist attractions respectively. A common trick to sell you the package they want is to tell you that some islands are full of wild animals at a certain time of year or that boats do not go to these specific destinations. Please do not be fooled, almost all of your holiday preparation can be done from reading articles at home, these tourist shops can sell within their own network and you will end up in the worst locations in terms of accommodation.

The police station, at the western end of Khao San Road, could be a valuable resource for travellers in trouble. However, extreme caution should be exercised when asking them for advice with regards to booking tickets — they will often arrange a tuk-tuk to an "approved agency" for you (which seems great and normally a better deal than you would be able to arrange), but the prices offered by the agency they send you to may be 2-3 times the price you could get elsewhere. Often, the tuk-tuk driver, on seeing you come out of the first agency without having bought a ticket, will take you to a second agency "...for no extra..." only to have the same or similar price quoted.

Be sure to read the Stay safe section of the main Bangkok article for other scams you should look out for.

Connect
Internet cafes are rivaled only by tuk-tuks for sheer ubiquity on Khao San Road. Almost any guest house has at least some form of internet available. has three computers set up that cost 10 baht for 15 minutes of surfing. It is a short walk through an alley in the middle of Khao San Road. The standard rate in the area is about 1 baht for 1 minute. Virtually all are set up for Skype and plain old international phone calls. Be aware that some cafes have applied limitations on their terminals, such as on printing documents and saving digital files — check whether this is the case before paying for it.

You can send (and even receive) post at one of the area's two post offices. is a short walk through the alley behind Burger King. is not far either; it's in front of Wat Bowonniwet. From the eastern side of Khao San Road, just follow Tanao Road in northwards direction and take a right at the roundabout.

Go next
Famous sites within walking distance from Khao San Road include the Grand Palace (with Wat Phra Kaeo), Wat Pho, Wat Arun, Sanam Luang, Wat Ratchanaddaram and the Golden Mount. See Rattanakosin for details. There are also some more adventurous options:

 * If you're up for a fun walk, hike to the Royal Barges National Museum at the other side of the river in Thonburi. The walking tour goes over the Pinklao Bridge, through a typical folk neighbourhood (follow the signs) and ends with the royal barges.
 * Only on weekends, the Taling Chan Floating Market in Thonburi can be reached by bus 79 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road. Ask a local where to get off or you might get lost.

title: Bangkok/Khao San Road


text:
Bangkok/Phahonyothin

Phahonyothin (Thai: พหลโยธิน) is centred around Phahonyothin Road, a major arterial road that starts at Victory Monument and runs parallel to and eventually merges with Viphavadi Rangsit Road in the north of Bangkok. Also spelled Phaholyothin, Pahol Yothin, and many other variations, it stretches northward all the way past the old Don Mueang Airport towards Rangsit, Ayutthaya, and (if you drive long enough) Chiang Rai. There are few sights that are actually worth it to come all the way up here for, but most tourists make a beeline for the Chatuchak Weekend Market.

Understand
Originally, Phahonyothin Road was named Prachathipatai Road (ถนนประชาธิปไตย) and it was just 22 kilometres, stretching from Victory Monument to Don Mueang Airport. Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsonhkhram extended the road north all the way north to Sing Buri, and renamed it Phahonyothin Road in honor of General Phraya Pholphayuhasena, the second Prime Minister of Thailand (commonly known as Phot Phahonyothin). Later it was extended even further, all the way to the Burmese border for a length of 1,005 kilometres! This article doesn't stretch that long, as it only covers that part of Phahonyothin Road that is actually within the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration. But even then, Phahonyothin is a vast district by any means, stretching 30 kilometres from north to south.

Until 2006, nearly all visitors to Thailand landed here at Don Mueang Airport. Don Mueang has been an important airline hub, and for a long time held the title of second busiest airport in Asia by passenger volume. The first commercial flights in Don Mueang Airport started in 1924; since then, the airport has been a commercial motor for the whole district, attracting many hotels and businesses. Because of this commercial activity, Bangkok mostly expanded northwards and Phahonyothin turned into one of the most developed suburbs of Bangkok. Many of Bangkok's residents live here and commute to downtown every day. Getting from the fringes to the southern part of Phahonyothin might take two hours or more, depending on traffic.

While the northern part is barely attended by foreign visitors, the southern part has some major highlights. Shopping is the main activity here; a visitor hasn't been to Bangkok without visiting the huge Chatuchak Weekend Market, the largest market in Southeast Asia with over 8,000 stalls. And while still off the beaten track to foreigners, Soi Ari turned into a hip artist-y neighbourhood with plenty of cheap dining options.

With the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport in 2006, Don Mueang Airport closed down completely for one year. After a big renovation, it was reopened in 2007 for non-connecting domestic flights, but still few airlines make use of it. The economic engine that Don Mueang used to be suddenly stopped working. In a snap, five-star hotels turned into two-star hotels and airport-related businesses moved out of the far north. Luckily, 30 kilometres south, commercial activity is still alive and kicking.

Get in
Phahonyothin is a major arterial road, and as many Bangkokians that live here work in downtown, there are plenty of ways to get in. It is also the location of Bang Sue Grand Station, Bangkok's new central train station.

By train
(สถานีกลางบางซื่อ Sathani Klang Bang Sue; pronounced "bahng soo") is Bangkok's shiny new central station and the terminus of almost all long-distance train services in the country, although a few still trundle onward to the much more centrally located old central station at Hualamphong. It can be reached with the MRT Blue Line.

Bang Sue is also the current terminus/starting point of SRT's commuter lines north towards Rangsit and west to Taling Chan, although the intention is for these to eventually continue south towards the city core.

Skytrain
The Skytrain is an excellent way to get in and around Phahonyothin. The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs over Phahonyothin Road with the most important areas of the district covered. The line comes directly from Siam Square and Sukhumvit. If you're coming from Silom, you must transfer from the Silom Line onto the Sukhumvit Line at Siam BTS station.

The line passes Sanam Pao, Ari and Saphan Khwai, and stops at Mo Chit, which is nearby the Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal. At Mo Chit, the Skytrain intersects with MRT metro system Chatuchak Park, so you can easily continue your way from there to Ratchadaphisek. After Mo Chit, the line goes further north along Phahonyothin Road to Wat Phra Sri Mahathat. In the near future, the line will be extended to Khu Khot station, outside the Bangkok city limits.

Metro
The metro is the most convenient way of getting to the Chatuchak Weekend Market or Bang Sue Grand Station. MRT station Kamphaeng Phet drops you right in front of the main entrance of Chatuchak, arguably the most interesting part of the market. Chatuchak Park MRT station also gets you there, but you still have to walk to the eastern entrance.

By bus
Bus travel in Phahonyothin is very troublesome. Getting from north to south can take you two hours or more, depending on traffic. The most important line is ordinary and air-conditioned Bus 59, which runs 24 hours a day. It starts at Sanam Luang in Rattanakosin and passes by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road) and Panfa Leelard pier, the western terminus of the Saen Saep Express Boat. It then continues through Lan Luang Road, Phetchaburi Road, and heads north along Phaya Thai Road, passing Victory Monument. From there, it goes all the way north along Phahonyothin Road passing the Chatuchak Weekend Market, Don Mueang Airport, and finally the Thammasat University campus in Rangsit.

By taxi
Going by metered taxi is the most comfortable (and expensive) way to get in and around the district. It can be used for both short and long distances. Always insist on the meter. If the driver refuses, get out and get another taxi, as there is always another one waiting for you. A ride from Sukhumvit or Silom to Chatuchak Weekend Market shouldn't cost you more than 100 baht. If you're heading up north to Don Mueang Airport, expect a price in the 200-300 baht range, depending on traffic.

Parks

Chatuchak Weekend Market

Northern Bangkok's biggest draw is the Chatuchak Weekend Market (จตุจักร, also "Jatujak" or even "JJ", Sa-Su 09:00-18:00, +66 2 272-4441), an incredibly vast, 35-acre indoor and outdoor market that has more than 8,000 vendors selling anything and everything under the sun. To put that number in perspective, if you browsed every stall one minute each, non-stop for eight hours on every Saturday and Sunday, it would take you around two months to visit them all! A good rule of thumb is to buy immediately if you spot something interesting, as you will never find that same stall again.

After World War II, the market was established around Sanam Luang in Rattanakosin, but when it got out of hand, it was moved to the north of Bangkok in 1978. Now it has 200,000 visitors a day who together spend around 30 million baht! Chatuchak has a fairly good mix of local residents and foreign tourists. It started out as a market for cheap bargains, but over the years has also become a haven for specialist shops that charge a little more.

Getting there is easy, just go to Mo Chit station by Skytrain or get off at Kamphaeng Phet station by metro (Chatuchak Park MRT station is also an option, but Kamphaeng Phet station immediately drops you off at the southwestern most interesting part of the market). The market is only opened on Saturdays and Sundays, and opens at 09:00, so get there early to beat the crowds and the heat. The market officially closes at 18:00, but slowly becomes less interesting after 16:00. Keep an eye on your belongings here as pickpockets work in the crowds, and avoid Chatuchak on rainy days as the roofs and drains here aren't quite up to a tropical downpour.

You can imagine that orientation here is a world of it its own; the only recognisable landmark is the Clock Tower in the middle of the complex, so you might want to meet there in case you get lost. In theory, the market is divided into 26 numbered sections depending on types of goods sold, but in practice you'll quickly get lost in its maze of 69 sois and dozens of other roads. For an extra detailed map of Chatuchak you can buy Nancy Chandler's Map of Bangkok at Teak House Art in section 2 to help you better navigate around the area.

Just describing what's on sale could fill a whole page. Giving an extensive description of all sections is nearly impossible, but a rough grouping into 10 categories can be made. These groupings should only be used as a rough guideline, as the goods sold overlap between sections and some sections are hard to even characterise at all; especially section 2 is a mixed bag with products as diverse as home decoration, used clothing, furniture, handicrafts and plants. The following grouping can be made:

 * Antiques (section 26)
 * Arts (section 7)
 * Books (section 1 and 27)
 * Ceramics (section 17 and 19)
 * Clothing (section 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 21 and 23)
 * Handicrafts (section 8, 22, 24 and 25)
 * Home decoration (section 2)
 * Pets (section 9, 11, 13 and 15)
 * Plants (section 3 and 4)
 * Used clothing (sections 5 and 6)

The pets section has a cute appearance with lots of puppies and bunnies on sale, but is particularly controversial, as many of these shops are a front for the trade of protected (and even endangered) animals under the counter. Most of these animals are smuggled in from other countries in the region, and Chatuchak serves as a hub for private animal collectors and others interested in exotic hornbills, snakes, turtles or anything else you could think of. These practices are not as visible as they used to be, following a number of crackdowns. A single crackdown in 2003 found 5,000 illegal exotic animals on sale at the market, though often only the deal is negotiated here with the handover done elsewhere. If you don't want to see crocodiles on sale in small cages or see live cockfights take place, you might want to skip the pets section.

Chatuchak is especially a good place for buying all kinds of traditional Thai handicrafts, silk and antiques. A lot of these stores are congregated in the southwestern part with prices are much lower than in Silom. Haggling is expected for every small item you buy, but generally you won't get more than 150 baht off the price. Antiques shopping is fun, but pretty much all on sale are fakes, as genuine antiques require a permit to be taken out of the country.

The area around section 27 is good for daily necessities. There are toilets, a smoking area, several ATMs and you can change money there. Food stalls are abound, they are lined up along the western, southern and eastern side of the main road. Expect the usual Thai dishes such as pad thai and Isaan food.

Meanwhile, other entrepreneurs have tried to cash in on the hype and opened their own markets surrounding the Chatuchak Weekend Market: Other markets in the area include:

Eat
Northern Bangkok's hippest place to eat is the area around Phahonyothin Soi 7, better known as Soi Ari (or Aree). More restaurants can be found in the nearby Rama VI Soi 30, which is also known as Soi Ari Samphan. Many musicians and artists migrated into this neighbourhood and the bars and restaurants cater to this audience. Just off Ari BTS station, these busy streets are divided into their own sois, with Ari Soi 1 featuring a bustling market packed with food stalls and the trendier/more expensive joints around Soi 2 and 3.

Budget
There are a variety of street food vendors at Phahonyothin Soi 7 (Soi Ari). Just off the BTS and around the corner on Soi Ari are a multitude of street stalls selling some of Bangkok's best street food, from Chinese-style wonton noodles, Isaan specialities such as som tam, larb, gai yaang, as well as pad thai, Thai desserts and stands that can whip up basically the entire repertoire of Thai cuisine, all for around 20-30 baht per dish.

Drink
Several bars aimed at young Thais have sprung up at the Or Tor Kor farmer's market area, near Chatuchak. A stone's throw from the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station (exit 1) are at least 20 small pubs, bars and restaurants that operate every day of the week.

Sleep
There are many accommodation options within a fifteen minute drive off the old Don Mueang airport.

Budget

Connect
Getting online in Phahonyothin is not as easy as in other districts. Luckily, there is a free Wi-Fi hotspot available near S&P at the ground floor of the Shinawatra Tower III (1011 Viphavadi Rangsit Rd, at Phahon Yothin MRT station).

Go next

 * Just follow Phahonyothin Road to the north as the concrete jungle continues in Rangsit. It has huge shopping malls and a hypermodern temple complex.
 * Phahonyothin is already a pretty exotic part of Bangkok, but if you want a more serene experience, try Ko Kret.
 * In the weekdays, when Chatuchak Weekend Market is closed, more cheap shopping is to be had in Pratunam.
 * Siam Square, Bangkok's modern commercial core, full of glitzy malls

title: Bangkok/Phahonyothin


text:
Bangkok/Pratunam

Pratunam (Thai: ประตูน้ำ) is a shopping district in Bangkok. It is a major market area with thousands of fashion stores that sell wholesale with cheap prices guaranteed, especially if you buy in bulk. Pratunam is used in a broad sense here, and it also includes the areas of Victory Monument, Ratchathewi and Makkasan.

Understand
The southern boundary of Pratunam is marked by the Saen Saep Canal. This canal was dug during the reign of King Rama III in the mid-nineteenth century to connect the Chao Phraya River with the Bang Pakong River to the east. When Saen Saep was connected with Maha Nak Canal and Krung Kasem Canal, a gate was required to control the water level between them. Pratunam literally means "water gate". It was not developed until the 1960s when rice fields dominated the landscape as far as the eye could see. Around that time, a fresh produce market was set up near the Indra Hotel at Ratchaprarop Road. Since then more markets have set up here, and the whole area has become known as a local marketplace.

Now Pratunam is often referred to as "northern downtown", a title it rightly deserves after the construction of Baiyoke Tower II. Just taking the lift up the tower is an experience not to be missed. More than 300 metres high and counting 88 storeys, it was Thailand's tallest building from 1997 until being surpassed by an even higher one in the Silom area in 2016. It is a distinctive feature of Bangkok's skyline and represents the rising economy of both Pratunam and Thailand as a whole. Surrounding it are plenty of other residential towers and hotels trying to make a buck out of the central location.

But the street markets have never disappeared. Fresh produce has made way for fashion wear, textiles and accessories, but they are still sold at strictly local prices. Endless small alleyways are packed with literally thousands of fashion stores, and they are so cheap because most of them actually sell at wholesale rates. In the north of the district lies Victory Monument, a large military monument that now functions as a major traffic hub. The area became a popular residential neighbourhood for locals and expats working in the city centre. It is particularly lively after dusk, when there is a busy night market and an active jazz scene.

BTS Skytrain
Centrally located, Pratunam is well-covered by the Sukhumvit Line of the BTS Skytrain. From Ratchathewi BTS station (N1) in the west of Pratunam, it is a 15-minute walk using exit 4 along Phetchaburi rd to the centre of the action (the intersection of Phetchaburi Road and Ratchaprarop Road). Phaya Thai covers the western area of the district, while Victory Monument (N3) is located in the north. Some shoppers also access Pratunam from Chitlom BTS station (E1) to the south using pedestrian links. At Phaya Thai BTS station (N2), you can interchange with the ARL, but as the systems are not integrated, you will have to buy a new ticket.

Airport Rail Link
You want to reach Ratchaprarop station from Suvarnabhumi Airport, you can take the Airport Rail Link from the basement level of the terminal. The ride takes about 25 minutes and costs 40 baht.

Ratchaprarop is the closest station to Pratunam Market and the Baiyoke Tower II. As you exit, make sure you cross the ground level railway line (which is on the same side as you come in from the airport) and keep walking in that direction. There is a sign saying "Baiyoke Hotels" nearby. Pratunam is some 500 metres south on the right hand side. You walk under an overhead walkway as you come close to the area.

By boat
If you're staying around Khao San Road area, the Saen Saep Express Boat is your best bet to get to Pratunam. It is a short walk to Panfa Leelard pier, near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin, where you can get on the boat which depart regularly. Just step on the next boat and wait for it to have enough passengers on board. Stay put, as this will be a rough ride! Pratunam pier is actually the interchange pier of the network. It is easy to know when you have arrived, as Pratunam pier last stop of the Golden Mount Line, so everyone has to disembark. You can also get off one stop earlier, at Sapan Hua Chang, for Ratchathewi intersection and the BTS station of the same name. A single trip takes about 25 minutes and costs 11 or 13 baht.

By bus
Pratunam is one of the best-connected districts and a hub for many bus routes to the north along Ratchaprarop rd, east and west along Phetchaburi rd. From the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin, bus 60 leaves from the eastern side of Sanam Luang (Ratchadamnoen Nai Road), passes Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road) and then heads off to Lan Luang Road and Phetchaburi Road. You can get off anywhere you want along Phetchaburi Road, as it covers most of the district. After Phetchaburi Road, it goes northeast along Ramkhamhaeng Road. Bus 511 also runs Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road) from this area along Phetchaburi Road to Pratunam before turning past Central World and running along Sukhumvit rd.

By foot
Pratunam is easily reachable on foot. It is a 500-m walk north from Ratchaprasong intersection which is considered the heart of Bangkok (800m east of Siam Square). You will walk along many luxurious malls and hotels, knowing the goods you will buy in Pratunam will be much more competitively priced. A covered footbridge running above Ratchadamri Rd and crossing the Saen Saep canal To Platinum Fashion Mall allows you to escape the worst traffic fumes and the harshest sunshine or rain.

See

There is not particularly much to see in Pratunam, unless you happen to be interested in generic-looking concrete buildings. The Phaya Thai Palace does make a nice visit if you happen to be free on a Saturday, and going atop Baiyoke Tower II gives breathtaking views of the city's skyline.

Buy

Most visitors know about the Chatuchak Weekend Market for cheap deals on clothing, shoes and accessories, but they miss out on Pratunam's daily sales. Pratunam is an excellent shopping area that can easily be reached on foot from Ratchaprasong. Most of the products available are on wholesale, so this is the place to go for some cheap bargains. Haggling is more important here than in other shopping malls, and things get considerably cheaper if you buy in bulk. Just don't forget about your baggage limit! Chatuchak has been serving a more diverse audience over the years, but Pratunam has kept a strict no frills approach. Everything looks cheap and is cheap, even cheaper than at Chatuchak.

The place to head out for is the Pratunam Market, a jam-packed maze of alleys where tiny stalls are offering t-shirts, jackets, dresses, jeans, shorts, shoes and accessories, including many fakes. You also cannot miss the City Complex, a fashionable shopping mall marketed towards female teenagers and students, and Indra Square that has a more diverse audience. Shopping in Pratunam is not for the faint-hearted, as it is an unappealing area with massive crowds, pushy pedestrians and no air-conditioning. You can take a breather at the cooled Platinum Fashion Mall, that also has an excellent food court.

There is lots of commercial activity going on around Victory Monument as well, although the malls are not as inspiring. Every evening, a night market is set up along Ratchawithi Road that is mostly frequented by working-class locals and students.

Eat
Most of the eateries around Pratunam are cheap and simple, unless you step into one of its five-star hotels. The food courts of Platinum Fashion Mall and Pantip Plaza are good if you are travelling on budget. Victory Monument has the usual collection of Western and Thai fast-food favourites, and plenty of inexpensive roadside restaurants along sleepy Rang Nam Road.

Drink

Pratunam quickly becomes deserted after dark, unless you're visiting the Rooftop Bar (as described in the See section). But there's an active jazz scene around Victory Monument that caters to artsy students living in the area. Expect a laid-back vibe and don't overdress.

Sleep
While the shopping is one of the cheapest in Bangkok, accommodation tends to be in the splurge category. This is not surprising as real estate prices skyrocketed in the 2000s (it is no coincidence that the tallest building in Bangkok can be found here).

Connect
Jessie's Minimart, inside the Miami Villa complex at Phetchaburi Soi 43/1, is an internet café that is open 24 hours and has a Wi-Fi hotspot available. It is close to the Phetchaburi MRT station. There's a free Wi-Fi signal at the lobby of the Amari Watergate Hotel, so you might want to have a drink at one of their cafés while surfing the net.

Go next
Another neighbourhood for cheap deals, and a 15-minute BTS ride north, is the Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phahonyothin. As the name implies, it is only open at weekends. Many of the shops there actually operate in Pratunam during weekdays. An alternative is the Bobae Market in Rattanakosin, a wholesale garment market very similar to Pratunam. It is four stops away on the Saen Saep Express Boat.

title: Bangkok/Pratunam


text:
Bangkok/Ramkhamhaeng

Ramkhamhaeng (Thai: รามคำแหง) is a vast district that lies along Ramkhamhaeng Road, a major arterial road in east Bangkok. The area could be considered a suburb and is almost completely unknown to foreign travellers, with the notable exception of Suvarnabhumi Airport. Most venues cater to locals who have their own transport, so attractions are spread far out and it is hard to get around. Hua Mak and Bang Kapi in the southwest are the most interesting neighbourhoods, and also the easiest to navigate as the Saen Saep Express Boat runs right through them. These are lively areas with shopping malls and restaurants that cater to commuters and university students.

Understand
Eastern Bangkok is virtually synonymous with Ramkhamhaeng Road, a major traffic artery jammed every morning and evening with commuters working downtown. Rising property values in Sukhumvit has made this area more interesting to foreign expatriates. With a length of 18 km, Ramkhamhaeng Road starts at Phetchaburi Road near Sukhumvit and ends in the far northeast at the junction with Suwinthawong Road (in the Min Buri neighbourhood).

The lower southwestern part is known as Hua Mak, a neighbourhood completely dominated by Ramkhamhaeng University. "RU", as it is commonly known, was opened in 1971 as Thailand's first open-admissions university. It has 435,000 students in 2018, all but 35,000 of them undergraduates. The university gives the neighbourhood its lively appearance, with many students shopping and dining at the Mall Ramkhamhaeng. Rajamangala Stadium is also be found here. Completed in 1998, it played an important role in the 1998 Asian Games and the 2007 AFC Asian Cup. It is home to Thailand's national football team.

The junction with Srinagarindra Road is known as Lam Sali intersection. Go north from here and you'll stumble upon Lat Phrao Road, which marks the beginning of a neighbourhood known as Bang Kapi. It is actually quite similar to Hua Mak, as everything still looks like a big grey mass of concrete, but students are outnumbered here by daily commuters. The Bangkapi Mall stole the hearts of the locals, and Thais flock to it in big numbers.

At the far eastern end of Ramkhamhaeng Road you can spot rice paddies and grazing goats and buffaloes. The road ends in Min Buri district which has a large Thai Muslim population with markets and mosques catering to their needs.

For foreigners, there is actually not that much to do. Attractions are few and far off, and the shopping malls are inferior to those in other districts. It can easily be skipped on any Bangkok itinerary, but then you miss out on seeing where and how most of the locals live.

You would almost forget that nearly all foreign visitors to Thailand land here at Suvarnabhumi Airport in the far east of the district. Development in eastern Bangkok has been relatively slow, but it is expected that the airport will be the spur for more urban development in the area. Until now, this has at least been true for the hotel business, with many new hotels constructed at Lat Krabang Road trying to make a buck out of transferring passengers.

By boat
Bangkok and its traffic-congested commercial districts, including Ramkhamhaeng Road, are hard to navigate by car. Thus, the best way to get into the area is by boat. The Saen Saep Express Boat service runs on the canal of the same name, and you don't have to worry about getting stuck in traffic! The service runs about every 5-10 minutes and as the canal is exactly parallel to Ramkhamhaeng Road with many stops along that road.

It is a fast and inexpensive way of transport as a single trip costs about 10-20 baht, depending on distance travelled. The most important stops are The Mall Ram (in Hua Mak) and The Mall Bangkapi, both of which are served by the NIDA Line (that starts in Pratunam and goes all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung). The route is served by 100 boats of 40-50 seats, and operates from 05:30-20:30 daily. Most piers have English signs up, but be wary, as The Mall Ram does not have any sign at all, and from the boat it is not clear that you have reached the mall!

Be wary of sitting on the outer sides of the boat as polluted water from the canal sometimes spills over on board. If you sit at the gunwale, next to your seat may be a halyard used to raise the plastic sheet keeping the canal water and rain outside; it is your duty to raise and lower it. It is better to sit near the prow to avoid noxious fumes from the engine. Be careful when entering and exiting the boats as "safety first" does not seem to apply for the crew here. During rush hour, you might have to fight your way in the boat as too many people are trying to get on. Another minor annoyance is the noisy atmosphere during the ride. Don't expect a romantic experience.

By public transit
Opened in August 2010, the Airport Rail Link is an alternative way of getting in. The City Line of that service has a stop at Ramkhamhaeng, which is at the extreme southwest of the district at the beginning of Ramkhamhaeng Road. There is a direct service from Suvarnabhumi Airport in the east, as well as from Phaya Thai, Ratchaprarop and Makkasan stations in the west.

By bus
Getting to Ramkhamhaeng by bus is very troublesome, but at least its a cheap way of doing some exploring. Expect a long ride though, and ask a local where to get off as you easily get lost in traffic. An important route is Bus 40, that starts at Hualamphong Train Station and then passes Rama IV Road, Phaya Thai Road, Siam Square, Sukhumvit, Pridi Phanomyong Road, and Ramkhamhaeng Road with The Mall Ramkhamhaeng as its final destination.

By songthaew
There are Songthaews (the red covered pickup trucks that have two benches facing each other on the inside, holding 10-15 people) that run along Ramkhamhaeng Soi 24. This road goes around Ramkhamhaeng University and runs mostly parallel to the main Ramkhamhaeng road. They cost 7 baht to ride. You pay when you get out of the truck at the end.

Several of the routes start/end near the beginning of Soi 24 (down the road across from Big C), at least one route keeps going to Srinagardindra Road. There is one Songthaew route that does not go to the same start point, instead it goes south on Soi Thawon Thawat and east along Phatthanakan Road.

Get around
Getting around this vast district is sure to give you a headache. The locals use their own transport for attractions that lie too far off a boat pier or ARL station. Of course, metered taxis are abundant, but expect long rides and high fares (especially during rush hour). Buses are cheaper, but without a decent bus map, you are sure to get lost.  Bus 58 and Bus 113 from Makkasan Station drive over Phetchaburi Road and then head for Ramkhamhaeng Road. Both are useful bus routes for getting around as they travel all along Ramkhamhaeng Road from Hua Mak in the southwest to Min Buri in the northeast (and back).

See

Buy

There are plenty of shopping malls in the area, and these are your best bet for getting daily necessities. If you want to buy cheap, there is an interesting street market running kilometres north along Ramkhamhaeng Road from The Mall Ramkhamhaeng 3. Many of the stalls only set up around 18:00, so the area is at its liveliest around 19:00. Expect endless stalls of clothes and accessories, mostly visited by local (female) commuters.

Eat
If you're looking for a quick snack, nearly all the sois of lower Ramkhamhaeng have carts serving simple street food for 50 baht or less. Aimed at the locals, prices at these street markets are remarkably cheaper than in common tourist spots. All three The Mall shopping centres have a big selection of chain restaurants in all shapes and sizes.

Drink
There are plenty of coffee chains at the malls, including a Starbucks at The Mall Bangkapi. Some gay bars have congregated at Ramkhamhaeng Soi 89/2 near Lam Sali intersection. They are popular among Ramkhamhaeng University students.

Sleep
The west end of Ramkhamhaeng Road has lately become more popular among expatriates, as accommodation is cheaper than in Sukhumvit and Siam Square, while the Saen Saep Express Boat brings you to those districts in around 20 minutes. But further off it is still a long taxi ride to the city centre.

Connect
Most hotels have free Wi-Fi, but check before booking. Getting online on the street is harder, but you can try the shopping malls. There's a Starbucks with paid Wi-Fi at The Mall Bangkapi. If you don't want to pay, there's free Wi-Fi at Assumption University in Ramkhamhaeng Soi 16 (Hua Mak). If you happen to be far out into the 'burbs, Fashion Island also has free Wi-Fi (but you need to register for a username and password). Follow the instructions from the manual at their website.

Go next
If you keep driving on Ramkhamhaeng Road and continue on Suwinthawong Road, eventually you will end up in Chachoengsao. Here you can find the large Wat Sothon with a busy market in front of it (especially fun in the morning). In the evening, the market magically disappears, leaving no trace of its existence.

title: Bangkok/Ramkhamhaeng


text:
Bangkok/Ratchadaphisek

Ratchadaphisek (Thai: รัชดาภิเษก) is the district that follows the northeastern portion of Ratchadaphisek Road. It is north of Sukhumvit, east of Phahonyothin and west of Ramkhamhaeng. Since the completion of the metro line, Ratchadaphisek has developed into an entertainment resort for locals, with dozens of clubs, theatres, karaoke bars, bowling alleys, and even an ice skating rink. Foreign visitors (mostly Japanese and Chinese) are drawn to its seafood restaurants, cultural performances and "massage parlours" (brothels). The part of Ratchadaphisek Road that runs along the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre is covered in Sukhumvit.

Understand
Ratchadaphisek, generally shortened to just Ratchada, breathes entertainment. While Sukhumvit's clubbing scene is probably the more impressive, it is totally overrun by expats. Ratchada's clubs, bars, cinemas, massage parlours, and shopping malls almost exclusively cater to a local Thai audience (foreigners are welcome though). Saturday nights are busiest, with Thai students in their late teens and early 20s flocking in great numbers to "RCA", a pedestrian-only road that stands for Royal City Avenue. Being a government-designated entertainment zone, clubs here stay open till 02:00, one hour longer than elsewhere in Bangkok. The bars and clubs have spilled over beyond RCA onto the many sois off Ratchadaphisek.

Chinese and Japanese tourists have discovered Ratchadaphisek, and there are many hotels and seafood restaurants catering to this demand. Western tourists come in surprisingly few numbers. Besides clubbing and fine dining, don't expect to see anything particularly interesting on this long, rather soulless road. The Pracha Rat Bamphen in Hwai Khwang is known as Bangkok's "New Chinatown", and is home to many Chinese immigrants and expatriates who have moved to Thailand for business opportunities; it is home to numerous Chinese restaurants serving a variety of authentic regional Chinese cuisines to serve this community.

Orientation is quite straightforward. Ratchdaphisek Road is the main road that crosses right through the district from north to south. It is the transportation hub of the district as the MRT metro runs right beneath it. Many of Ratchadaphisek's sois intersect with the main road, with the odd numbers at the west side and the even numbers on the east side.

By public transit
Since 2004, Ratchadaphisek has been served by the MRT metro system. The line exactly follows Ratchadaphisek Road with plenty of stops on it. If you are coming from Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam Square, or Yaowarat and Phahurat, the metro is definitely the most convenient way to get in. The stations are, from south to north, Phetchaburi, Phra Ram 9, Thailand Cultural Centre, Huai Khwang, Sutthisan and Ratchadaphisek. The metro ride from Sukhumvit station takes about five to ten minutes, while the ride from Si Lom station takes about ten to fifteen minutes. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 16-41 baht.

By boat
Ratchadaphisek is not easy to reach by boat, but the Saen Saep Express Boat service does have some stops on the south side of the district. It generally is the fastest way to get into Ratchadaphisek if coming from Rattanakosin, Khao San Road or Dusit. A single trip from Rattanakosin to the district takes about 30 minutes (including a transfer at Pratunam pier) and costs around 8-20 baht. The most important pier is Asoke-Petchaburi, which is at walking distance of Ratchadaphisek Road. From there it is possible to transfer to the metro at nearby Phetchaburi MRT station. If you're heading for Royal City Avenue (RCA), you can get out at Wat Mai Chonglom pier. Other piers that border the district are Prasanmit, Italthai, Soi Thonglor and Charn Issara. All of these piers are served by the NIDA Line, which starts at Pratunam pier and runs all the way northeast to Ramkhamhaeng.

By bus
There are about 20 bus lines covering Ratchadaphisek Road. Ordinary and air-conditioned Bus 136 starts at the Khlong Toei Market (near Sukhumvit) and then follows the MRT northwards, along the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre, Asoke Road, and Ratchadaphisek Road. It passes Sutthisan, Lat Phrao and Phahon Yothin MRT stations before heading for Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit). Ordinary and air-conditioned Bus 206 also runs from Asoke Road north, along Ratchadaphisek Road to the intersection with Phahonyothin Road. Ordinary and air-conditioned bus Bus 514 traverses Silom Road and drives along Ratchadamri Road, Ratchaprarop Road, Victory Monument and Din Daeng Road to the intersection with Asoke Road, where it heads north along Ratchadaphisek Road to the intersection with Lat Phrao Road.

By taxi
You can also hail a taxi — it's OK to say Ratchada ("RAHT-cha-dah" รัชดา), as everybody abbreviates it. Taxis are a comfortable way of getting around Ratchadaphisek, especially if you happen to be in one of its sois, which can be complicated to navigate in. A ride from Sukhumvit should not cost more than 50 baht, while a ride from Silom should not cost more than 70 baht.

Entertainment

Ratchadaphisek is Bangkok's entertainment mecca, offering all the modern entertainment facilities you could expect from a large metropolis, including theatres, bowling, karaoke, go-karts and an ice-skating rink. Most facilities are new, as they opened after the MRT line was completed in 2002.

Cultural performances
The area around Thailand Cultural Centre is the place to go for cultural performances. Siam Niramit is one of the best traditional Thai shows in Bangkok.

Buy

Eat
Ratchadaphisek has plenty of seafood restaurants that cater to high-end Chinese and Japanese tourists (though are still quite affordable compared to Western countries). The Huai Khwang area has lots of restaurants, especially good for late night dining. If you are on Royal City Avenue (RCA), south of the road is RCA Plaza with plenty of food outlets, a food court and a TOPS Supermarket.

Near MRT Phra Ram 9 lies Ratchada Soi 3 that is home to some excellent street food at low prices. You might want to try some khao man kai (chicken and rice with chili sauce) or moo yang (grilled pork) here. It won't cost more than 80 baht.

Drink
If you are looking for entertainment the locals enjoy, Royal City Avenue and Ratchadaphisek Road are an interesting night out. These nightclubs are huge, and most of them boost stunning visual effects. Partying here is quite different from the usual tourist places. Instead of 40-year old tourists, expect local early 20-something university students. Ordering drinks goes by bottle, instead of per glass, and the locals dance while standing at their tables (not on the dance floor). The same are the ID checks; always bring identification papers as they will be checked upon entry.

Royal City Avenue (RCA)
Royal City Avenue, usually referred to as RCA, is a popular and trendy road open only to pedestrians. It has gone through some tough times. In 2002, the whole street was pretty much dead as it was known as a place where under-aged locals would sneak in for their alcohol needs. It had a reputation for having bad facilities and long queues for the toilets. After a heavy social order campaign, ID-checks have been introduced and heavily enforced, with only those 20 or older allowed entry.

RCA became hip and happening again, with many of the biggest nightclubs in Thailand. Many clubs have been refurbished with stunning interiors and special effects. To boost its image, especially a lot of dedication has gone in the design of toilets. Route 66 is said to have some of the fanciest toilets in the world. There's also racks of magazines in case you're taking your time and a make-up room for the ladies.

Westerners aren't common, but aren't unwelcome either.

Ratchada Soi 4

Ratchada Soi 4 is a collection of several dozen music pubs very popular with 20-something Thais. Formerly a second-hand car lot, and with still some cars on sale at daytime, this soi gives kind of an insight in how young Thais like to have a good time out. The music is often way too loud, but that seems to be the main attraction. These clubs are not as impressive as those on RCA, they feel a bit run down and trashy, but are still good fun.

Train Night Market Ratchada
This venue along Ratchadaphisek Road in Din Daeng is full of open air food vendors and engaging bars like RUST Bar and Cocktail, Dot Box Bar, SquidBar, and Sixty Nine Bar.

Massage parlours
Ratchadaphisek Road features many types of massage parlours ranging from upscale spas specializing in traditional Thai massage to the so-called "soapy" massage parlours, which are quite famous in the area, These latter parlours are little more than a front for prostitution. They are indicated by big flashy yet windowless buildings with names including Maria, Emmanuelle and Poseidon. Most of these are in the area around Huai Khwang MRT station. Note that taking a taxi directly to one of these will often have the driver expecting a commission; this will be added to your bill if you're there for service, and may result in an annoyed driver if you are just stopping.

Sleep
Not as popular as the Sukhumvit area for Western tourists, but there are some big hotels here. Many cater to high-end Chinese and Japanese visitors.

Connect
Your best bet for free Wi-Fi is the Esplanade shopping mall. There are plenty of hotspots available at McDonald's, Coffee World, and other cafés and restaurants. Just take a sit at one of the public benches at the ground floor and you won't have to worry about finding a hotspot.

Go next

 * If you like the seafood restaurants in Ratchadaphisek, then you should definitely check out the delicious seafood in Yaowarat. Just jump on the metro in southwards direction and get out at the last stop, Hua Lamphong.
 * Take the MRT north to Phahonyothin and you'll reach the Chatuchak Weekend Market in no time. Keep in mind that this enormous market is only open on Saturdays and Sundays.

title: Bangkok/Ratchadaphisek