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Hong Kong/Central

Central and Western is a district of Hong Kong Island. It is the political, administrative and financial hub and home to some fantastic skyscrapers and Victoria Peak.

Understand
The area's proximity to Victoria Harbour led it to become an early centre of trade and finance. Today it remains Hong Kong's administrative centre.

Orientation
Central in this guide means the administrative district of Central and Western. It includes the following neighbourhoods that are either in or close to the Central Business District:

 * Central (中環) — previously known as Victoria, this is 'downtown' Hong Kong and may be defined as the area within walking distance of Central MTR station. Head north towards the harbour and you will find modern buildings such as the IFC shopping mall. Alternatively, make your way uphill towards the mountain and you will encounter some of the oldest parts of Hong Kong.
 * Lan Kwai Fong (蘭桂坊) — a small area just southwest of Central Station focused on the L-shaped street of Lan Kwai Fong and also including parts of D'Aguilar Street, Wellington Street and Wyndham Street forming a square around Lan Kwai Fong. The area is packed with restaurants, bars and clubs. Popular with expats and local drinkers.
 * Soho (荷南美食區) — entertainment zone between Hollywood Road and Bonham Road-Caine Road, featuring restaurants, bars, clubs, galleries and shops. Take the elevated walkway from the IFC mall to catch the escalator up.
 * Mid-Levels (半山區) — continue up the escalator to find the high-end residential area half way up Victoria Peak. In the morning the escalator moves residents down the mountain to their offices in Central.
 * Sheung Wan (上環) — interesting area below Mid-Levels between Central in the east and Sai Ying Pun in the west. Although adjacent to Central, it has its own identity and is worth exploring if you are interested in small shops and remnants of the territory's colonial past.

Further afield, you might explore:

 * Victoria Peak (太平山) — high class neighbourhood and popular tourist destination that looks down on Central and Victoria Harbour. Before World War II, non-white people were banned from setting foot on the Peak unless they were domestic workers in the one of the resident white families' homes, and even today, this is still one of Hong Kong's most exclusive neighbourhoods.
 * Sai Ying Pun (西營盤) — traditional Chinese residential neighbourhood that is host to Hong Kong University and is populated by a large number of dried seafood shops.
 * Kennedy Town (堅尼地城) — famous for being at the end of the tramline and little else. This used to be the place to find undesirable people and noxious industries. With the arrival of the MTR, Kennedy Town has become gentrified.

By boat
Due to a land reclamation and waterfront redevelopment project in Central/Admiralty, access to the ferries can be a little confusing - take heed of signs warning about the ever-shifting arrangements.

The Transport Department provides an online directory of Hong Kong's ferry services.

 * Star Ferry operates boats between Central or Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. The cost is $2.5 on weekdays, $3.4 on weekends and holidays
 * Sun Ferry also boats between North Point on Hong Kong Island and Kowloon
 * Fortune Ferry operates one route between North Point on Hong Kong Island and Kwun Tong in, Kowloon
 * Coral Sea Ferry operates two routes between Sai Wan Ho on Hong Kong Island and Kwun Tong or Sam Ka Tsuen in Kowloon.

By bus
For details of cross-harbour buses, see Hong Kong.

Bus fares range from $8.90 to $11.10 for routes linking the urban areas in Kowloon and Hong Kong Island. Some routes to remote places have higher fares.

By MTR
Central is the end of the Tsuen Wan Line and is on the Island Line. The Tung Chung Line, the South Island Line and the East Rail Line, which was extended in 2022, provide service to Central.

By airport express train
The Hong Kong Station on the Airport Express is in Central.

By tram
The tram serves Hong Kong Island from Shau Kei Wan (筲箕灣) in East Hong Kong Island to Kennedy Town in the far west.

Victoria Peak
Get a great view of Hong Kong from the giant wok-shaped Peak Tower on Victoria Peak, one of the highest points on the island, as long as the air is clear – it can be obscured by air pollution or cloud. Views of the natural landscape are a stark contrast to views down in the city. The Peak Tower has an observation platform, and it and the Peak Galleria are full of souvenir shops and overpriced restaurants with spectacular views. There are also some museums and viewing galleries.

From the dawn of British colonisation, the Peak hosted the most exclusive neighbourhood for the territory's richest residents, where local Chinese weren't permitted to live until after World War II. The rich were carried to the Peak in their sedan chairs to escape the summer heat.

Since 1888 the Peak Tram ($37 one way, $52 return) has run directly up from Garden Rd in Central. It stops at the bottom of the Peak Tower. It makes a few stops on the way, so it is possible to go half-way and hike the winding roads on the sloping geography. To get to the start of the tram, follow the signs for ten minutes from Central Station, or bus number 15C runs regularly from the Star Ferry pier. A more picturesque, cheaper and slower way of reaching the Peak is by taking bus 15 (not 15C) from the Star Ferry pier in Central. Not only is it cheaper at $10.30 but, as the bus snakes up the mountain, you can enjoy beautiful views of both sides of Hong Kong Island and passing the territory's priciest neighbourhoods. You can also walk to the Peak from Mid-Levels along Old Peak Road.

The observation deck of the Peak Tower offers panoramic views of both sides of the island but there are a number of nice walks around the Peak Tower that also offer good, but less panoramic, views (getting out is not intuitive as the exits are by design not well-signed; they are located on the ends of the ground floor), One of them is the Lion Pavilion Lookout on Findley Road, about one minute walk from The Peak Tower. You will be able to catch a laser show at 8PM every night. On sunny days, you can find an old man outside the pavilion, offering rickshaw rides along Findley Road. A 10-minute ride costs $100.

For the best views and to get away from the crowds, there is a circular walk along Lugard Rd and Harlech Rd. From Lugard Rd there are views of the skyscrapers of Central and Victoria Harbour. From Harlech Rd, the views are of Lamma and other Outlying Islands. The walk takes around an hour.

From Harlech Rd, you can hike into the Lung Fu Shan Country Park and explore the relics of World War II.

Do

 * Mount Davis. Walk up Mount Davis to see the abandoned Second World War-era gunnery fortifications. Take the steps up from Victoria Rd just west of Kennedy Town; or follow Victoria Rd until you reach the roundabout (about a kilometre), and take the mountain road up. The climb will take a while, but there are many ruins to explore, and great views. There's also a youth hostel at the top if you are too tired to make it back in one go.

Eat

Central is a world-class place to eat, with prices to match. Although Downtown Hong Kong has a reputation for posh nosh, travellers on a budget will not starve if they are careful. When it comes to food, Central justifiably feels like ‘Asia’s World City’ and has the full range of Chinese cuisines punctuated by restaurants from around the world. There is even a British-style fish and chip shop.

Eateries are found across Central and if you wander, perhaps looking for evidence of its colonial past, you can trust serendipity to stumble upon somewhere interesting to eat. If you are lost, the famous escalator will guide you past some of the best restaurants and will take you up the mountain to Soho. Soho (Staunton and Elgin Street) is a focus for mid-range and more expensive places to dine. Drinkers will find that the bars of Lan Kwai Fong provide a good range of international food. Adjacent to Lan Kwai Fong is ‘Rat Alley’ (Wing Wah Lane) where a selection of cheaper restaurants can be found. Despite the nickname, Wing Wah Lane is a popular place to eat, and has the advantage of having some places to sit outside in a car-free street.

The IFC shopping mall has a roof terrace where you will find a choice of bars and restaurants. The roof is public open space: here you can eat and drink outdoors with a view of Victoria Harbour.

While you're here, also be sure to check out the main branch of (泰昌餅家), the most famous purveyor of the Hong Kong-style egg tart (蛋撻), and a favourite haunt of Chris Patten, Hong Kong's last colonial governor, during his days in office.

Lan Kwai Fong
If you want good food, a party atmosphere, or just to people watch, head to Hong Kong's traditional expat hangout of Lan Kwai Fong, a few blocks uphill from Central MTR. Dozens of bars sell pricey drinks: even basic beer costs $50 and up. The 7-Eleven store sells beer and mixed drinks much more cheaply than the bars - and the staff will even open the bottles for you. There is always something going on in The Fong, be it street festivals during the Halloween and New Year's celebrations or the Beer and Food Festivals that pop up in the summer.

Soho
Jump on the Mid-Levels escalator, and you'll find plenty of bars and restaurants on your way up the hill on Hollywood Rd, Staunton St and Elgin St:

Connect
A list of many free Wifi hotspots in Central is provided on Wi-Fi.HK, courtesy of the Hong Kong Government. Besides, five complimentary sessions of 15 minutes each are available in the Hong Kong MTR station. The IFC mall above the station provides free Wifi as well, and so does the large Apple store inside the IFC, with Apple computers to surf the internet with.

Go next

 * An interesting way to spend your day is by taking the tram to Wan Chai and Causeway Bay in the east.
 * The shopping mecca of Kowloon is just across Victoria Harbour; take the Star Ferry for the experience or the MTR for speed.
 * Take a ferry directly out of the hustle and bustle to the relaxation of Mui Wo or Lamma, Cheung Chau and many other outlying islands.

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title: Hong Kong/Central


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Hong Kong/Eastern District

The Eastern district in Hong Kong Island is not as full of attractions as neighbouring Central, although Wan Chai is known for its nightlife and Causeway Bay for an unforgettable shopping experience.

Understand
Wan Chai and Causeway Bay are the main tourism destinations along the eastern shore of the north coast of Hong Kong island. Inland, Happy Valley with its world famous racecourse is a major tourism attraction.

 * Wan Chai (灣仔). Known for its sleazy nightlife, having been a favourite hangout spot for American soldiers on their R&R leaves during the Vietnam War. These days, it is much more than a couple of blocks of girlie-bars populated by drunken American sailors; after all, The World of Suzie Wong was just a work of fiction set in Wan Chai during a bygone age. Between Causeway Bay and Admiralty, Wanchai has an inner-city feel that makes it an interesting but safe area to walk around at any time. Wan Chai has traditional street markets that, unlike many other neighbourhoods, are still outdoors. In the so-called wet-markets, butchers hang animal carcasses on large hooks that overshadow pavements and fishmongers have stalls with live fish that do their best to escape. Between Johnston Road and Queen's Road East are numerous alleys that are worth exploring if you are looking for traditional family-run shops selling anything from tropical fish to cheap clothing.
 * Causeway Bay (銅鑼灣). A shopping district that is home to large department stores, such as Sogo. Causeway Bay is crowded most of the time but here you can eat and shop until very late. Some major supermarkets and eateries stay open 24 hours. Times Square in Causeway Bay is a major focal point, especially at the 'calendar' New Year when you will be wise to stay away if you hate crowds. The area is also popular among Hong Kong's youth and is a good place to check out the latest fashion trends.
 * Happy Valley (跑馬地). Nestled behind the Happy Valley Racecourse, away from the MTR line, this district has a more laid-back feel than nearby Wan Chai and Causeway Bay. Happy Valley was not always the happiest place to be. When the first British troops were stationed in Happy Valley the death rate from malaria was so high that, with typical British sarcasm, the place was dubbed Happy Valley. It is a popular residential area, especially among expats. There is a tram line circling the racecourse that serves the district. This area is also home to the beautiful and historic Hong Kong Cemetery.
 * The area further east, along the north shore is the Eastern District (東區). From west to east, it constitutes the urban areas of Tin Hau (天后), North Point (北角), Quarry Bay (鰂魚涌), Sai Wan Ho (西灣河), Shau Kei Wan (筲箕灣), Siu Sai Wan (小西灣) and Chai Wan (柴灣). If you are only in Hong Kong for a short time then you can safely ignore this corner of the island unless you intend to go to the Museum of Coastal Defence.

Get in
This area is a light walk to Central from Hong Kong's main transport hubs (except during the summer heat).

By metro
The Island Line of the Mass Transit Railway runs along the north coast of Hong Kong Island, stretching from Kennedy Town in the west and traveling eastward through Central, Admiralty, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay, and beyond.

If you are arriving from Kowloon, the Tsuen Wan Line passes by Admiralty station from which you can transit to the Island Line very easily. You can also cross the harbour by taking the Tseung Kwan O Line or the newly extended East Rail Line.

By tram
The tram runs from Kennedy Town to Sai Wan Ho. The tram line trundles through Eastern as well and is a great way to see this part of town without too much effort or expense. Make sure you take a tram that does not deviate off course from your destination. Sundays it is very uncomfortable to use simply from the sheer volume of fellow travellers. The tram does not have air conditioning, only fans and open windows.

By bus
Many buses run from Central eastwards to Wan Chai and beyond, as well as some cross-harbour buses connecting this area to Kowloon. If you learn to master the bus system, then journeys will be more comfortable since you will avoid running around metro stations and get a seat in a clean air conditioned environment.

By boat
The Star Ferry arrives at Wan Chai Pier from Hung Hom and Tsim Sha Tsui in Kowloon. North Point also has a pier with frequent services to Hung Hom, Kwun Tong, and Kowloon City.

By taxi
Taxis are cheap enough if you want to get around in comfort. Hong Kong Station to Causeway Bay is around $30 depending on traffic.

Museums and exhibitions

Buy
The main department stores are in Causeway Bay (銅鑼灣). The biggest of these is Sogo.

Eat
Eating out in Wan Chai or Causeway Bay is a great idea, but expect to meet crowds of people doing the same. Both areas offer a bewildering range of places to eat to suit all budgets and interests. Generally, Causeway Bay is a bit more expensive than Wan Chai and attracts plenty of young trendies who may be seen eating into the small hours. Look out for specialist dessert cafes and remember to look-up to see what is on offer on higher floors where you can find cafes with balconies that enable you to get a more relaxed view of the crowded streets below. Wan Chai also has some great places to eat and it is generally a little easier to find a table than in Causeway Bay.

You will find good places to eat in all parts of Wan Chai and part of the fun is looking around. A street not to miss is Star Street which is close to Pacific Place Three, which can be accessed via a subway from Pacific Place. If you arrive in Wan Chai via the MTR station you will land in the middle of the bar and drinking area where so many restaurants are geared to drinkers and tourists. Alternatively, head towards the Causeway Bay side of Wan Chai for a more local dinning experience.

Lei King Wan or SOHO East is an interesting place to go to wine and dine, often ignored by tourists. From Sai Wan Ho MTR Station, follow signs to Sai Wan Ho Ferry Pier. It is about a 15-minute walk. There are a lot of restaurants and pubs where you can sit at the sidewalk while enjoying your dinner. Shau Kei Wan Main Street East is where the tram terminal located. Many small restaurants, mostly serving local food, can be found along this street in Shau Kei Wan.

The area around North Point is home to (德成號), Hong Kong's most famous purveyor of egg rolls (蛋卷). They make a limited quantity every day, so be sure to join the queue at least 2 hours before opening time Tu-F at 9:30AM, or you will miss out. Due to high demand, each customer is limited to buying 1.6 kg per day.

Budget
If you are travelling on a tight budget, then Wan Chai offers a great choice of places, with the added bonus that the neighbourhood has plenty of character and personality.

Bars
Wan Chai is home to one of the territory's major nightspots with a moderately seedy reputation. Leave Wan Chai MTR station at exit C, and you will find a wide choice of bars, clubs and places to eat. Many women hanging around these places are sex workers, and these are occasional cases of visitors getting robbed after having their drinks spiked. Bring a friend and don't let touts steer you into their clubs.

Happy Valley has a far snootier feel about it compared to nearby Wan Chai. If you are looking for a slower pace and want a quiet drink, Happy Valley has a few bars and coffee shops that might appeal if you are based in this area.

Causeway Bay is a great place for a night out, but there is no obvious bar area. Although this is the place to be if you are young and glamorous on a Saturday night, you maybe pushed to find a bar that sells a decent beer. Alternatively, why not go native, forget the alcohol and indulge in the hip cafe scene?

There are quite a few bars and restaurants on Tong Chong Street, Taikoo Place in Quarry Bay.

Go next

 * Southern side of Hong Kong Island

title: Hong Kong/Eastern District


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Hong Kong/Kowloon

Kowloon (九龍 Gáulùhng, "nine dragons" in Cantonese) is an urban peninsula on the mainland part of Hong Kong, to the north of Hong Kong Island, where the central business district is. The mountains that overlook Kowloon account for eight of Kowloon's nine dragons while, as the story goes, the ninth dragon refers to the emperor who counted them. Of the eight mountains that overlook the crowded city, the most famous is Lion Rock, which when seen from the right angle, really does deserve its name.

With over 2.1 million people (2011) living in an area of less than 47 km², Kowloon is one of the most densely populated places on the planet, and has a matching array of places to shop, eat and sleep. Tsim Sha Tsui (尖沙咀) pronounced "Tzeem Sah Jeui", the tip of the peninsula, is Kowloon's main tourist drag and has a mix of backpacker and high-end hotels. Further north, Mong Kok (旺角) has a huge choice of shops and markets in an area of less than a square kilometre.

"Kowloon side", as it is often known, managed to escape some of the British colonial influences that characterise the "Hong Kong Island" side. While prices on Kowloon side tend to be lower, it is also less tourist-friendly and English proficiency is not as strong as on the Hong Kong Island side.

By train
The Airport Express runs from the airport to Kowloon MTR station in south-west Kowloon in 20 minutes. Most of Hong Kong's rail lines converge on the Kowloon Peninsula. If you are travelling from Hong Kong Island, change at Admiralty on the Island Line for the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui from Hong Kong Island. The MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui offers a faster service and is the most popular choice for commuters, so avoid Admiralty interchange during the rush hour (5PM to 7PM). The section of Tseung Kwan O Line between Quarry Bay and Yau Tong can also be used for crossing the harbour, or use the Tung Chung Line to bypass Mong Kok if you're heading to West Kowloon. You can also board at Admiralty or at the Exhibition Centre station (near the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre) to Hung Hom, Mong Kok East or Kowloon Tong using the East Rail line (which was extended in 2022). If you're travelling to Kowloon City however, the new Tuen Ma MTR route has entered service in June 2021. You can also interchange with buses in Hung Hom, Mong Kok or Kowloon Tong.

By taxi
Taking a taxi across the harbour to Kowloon can be slow and expensive due to traffic. Some taxi drivers operate only on one side of the harbour, so you may have to find a taxi rank marked "Cross-harbour trips only." Expect to pay tunnel fees both ways unless you depart from a taxi rank dedicated to cross-harbour service.

By helicopter
Helicopter transfers can be arranged between Hong Kong International Airport and the roof-top landing pad at the Peninsula Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui.

By bus
Citybus provides several bus routes from the Airport terminal. The bus A21 ($33) and its respective night bus N21 ($23) are heading to Tsim Sha Tsui going through Nathan Rd. Get off at the stop #14 (or #36 if using the N21) called "Middle Road" if you're going to the Chungking Mansions. The bus A22 ($39) is going to Lam Tin. Although they take longer than the MTR Airport Express, their fares are much cheaper and they call on many more stops along areas including Mong Kok and Tsim Sha Tsui, as well as some nearby hotels. Prepare the exact amount, no change will be given.

Numerous local buses travel through different areas of Kowloon, as well as between New Territories or Hong Kong island. Bus routes with number-prefix 1XX (e.g. 102, 104, 118), 6XX (e.g. 603, 601), 9XX (e.g. 904, 905) are harbour-crossing buses and they call at the bus interchanges of the tunnels and some routes via Kowloon peninsula.

By public transport
Most of the local bus routes mentioned above are well-suited for getting around within Kowloon as well. The 5 follows Chatham Road north at first on its run from the Star Ferry pier to Fu Shan, with the 6 going northwest from the dock to Lai Chi Kok and providing access to the western side of the peninsula. In the east-west direction, bus 215X leaves from the Kowloon airport train station for Lam Tin, via Tsim Sha Tsui and Kwun Tong. Routes 40 and 214 are some of the main bus routes that travel along hillside developments. Routes 5R, 22, and 22M as well as some minibuses connect from Kai Tak Cruise Terminal to different regional subcenters where passengers can further transfer to other bus, metro, other transit services, or explore these local area.

Should you desire more personalized vehicular transit, taxi fares within Kowloon itself are reasonable.

Underground, the MTR line runs under Nathan Road, with regular stops. With MTR line serving part of the same corridor from East Kowloon. Two commuter rail lines intersect at the station, providing frequent service to some other stations in Kowloon closer to the shore as well. Note the service advisories above for the Kowloon station. Together with line, they cover most part of the Kowloon area, with feeder bus and green minibus available at various stations for connection into more localized area.

There are also red minibus hubs scattering around Mong Kok and Kwun Tong.

Most traffic in Kowloon is on foot. Sidewalks are often narrow and crowded, especially at night when most people go out. Many small alleys offer shortcuts; check a map or online mapping service (you may also find a delightful store or restaurant this way). In Tsim Sha Tsui, it can often be preferable to use the extensive network of tunnels that connect the Tsim Sha Tsui and East Tsim Sha Tsui MTR stations if going a considerable distance, as they are climate-controlled and traffic poses no problem.

See
Hong Kong's most iconic view is that of the neon signs along Nathan Road stretching from Mong Kok to Tsim Sha Tsui, which once made for quite a colourful spectacle at night. However, new safety regulations implemented by the government have resulted in most of these signs being taken down, and the street is today only a shadow of its former self.

Landmarks
The Kowloon Waterfront offers splendid views of the Hong Kong Island shore and skyline. This is the best place to experience the classic view of Hong Kong, and nobody on their first trip here should miss out on promenading along the waterfront. The best views are at night when the lights of global capitalism provide a powerful spectacle. If you are not proficient with night-time photography, you can pay a modest sum for a professional to take your photograph against one of the world's most iconic backdrops.

Start at the Star Ferry Terminal in Tsim Sha Tsui, where cruise ships berth at

If you continue your stroll along the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, you will soon find yourself walking along Hong Kong's version of Hollywood's walk of fame, the

Every night at 8PM there is a colourful light show that is staged atop the key buildings on both sides of the harbour, dubbed A Symphony Of Lights. On Monday evenings, spectators can listen to the show's music and English narration live at the Avenue of Stars, on radio on FM103.4 MHz or by calling 35 665 665.

After visiting the Kowloon waterfront you can take the. It goes across Victoria Harbour to Hong Kong Island, getting an excellent view of the skyline in the process.

Do

 * Afternoon tea in the lobby at the Peninsula Hotel is an elegant tradition that enables visitors to savour a little of the grandeur of Hong Kong's colonial past. It is one of the more affordable ways to experience the services of one of Hong Kong's most extravagant hotels. Afternoon tea is served between 2 PM and 7 PM, daily. The dress-code is smart casual.
 * Take a walk in
 * Shanghai Street runs north-south parallel to Nathan Road and offers an easy to navigate urban transect. Start at the north-side of Kowloon Park and wander up to Langham Place, a modern shopping and hotel complex which is next to Mong Kok MTR station. Along the way you will experience Kowloon in its raw authenticity. This is not your regular tourist trail, but crumbling tenements and small-scale industrial and commercial outfits blur to form an urban landscape that will make you wish that you had brought your camera along.
 * Cricket:
 * Kowloon Cricket Club is at 10 Cox's Rd, Jordan but is members only. If you're a cricket player, you can apply to join as a sports member.
 * You're never too old for tai chi on the Avenue of the Stars. Free lessons in English M, W-F mornings from 8AM-9AM.
 * A section of Portland Street in Mong Kok hosts Hong Kong's unofficial red-light district, with a dizzying assortment of karaoke bars, hostess bars, saunas, brothels and restaurants. This area is frequently the scene from Hong Kong triad films. Great street food and colourful characters can also be found. It's best to go in the evenings when the street is brightly lit with neon. Despite the vice that transpires there, it is perfectly safe to visit anytime — but be careful about taking pictures, as many people will not wish to be photographed. Ride to MTR Mong Kok station and, as you emerge from exit C3, walk southward.
 * A section of Portland Street in Mong Kok hosts Hong Kong's unofficial red-light district, with a dizzying assortment of karaoke bars, hostess bars, saunas, brothels and restaurants. This area is frequently the scene from Hong Kong triad films. Great street food and colourful characters can also be found. It's best to go in the evenings when the street is brightly lit with neon. Despite the vice that transpires there, it is perfectly safe to visit anytime — but be careful about taking pictures, as many people will not wish to be photographed. Ride to MTR Mong Kok station and, as you emerge from exit C3, walk southward.

Buy
If your budget doesn't quite stretch to the Tiffanys, Guccis and Shanghai Tangs of Hong Kong Island, head to Kowloon for more affordable shopping.

Shopping malls

 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.
 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.
 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.
 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.
 * Tsim Sha Tsui's main artery Nathan Road is packed with stores, particularly cheap electronics shops. Be careful when shopping here; these slippery guys know every trick in the book and some stores are notorious for overcharging tourists. Locals seldom go to Tsim Sha Tsui for electronic products. It is more advisable to go to Mong Kok or Sham Shui Po instead.

Markets

 * The colourful Flower Market and the adjoining Bird Garden (Prince Edward St West) are worth a visit even if shrubs and parrots aren't high on your shopping list.
 * In Mong Kok, Tung Choi Street (通菜街), popularly known as the Ladies' Market (女人街), is Hong Kong's biggest outdoor shopping experience. Prices here may not be the cheapest, as the area is popular with tourists, but the variety, chaos and sheer number of sellers is mind-boggling and well worth the visit. It is also opened during daytime, unlike the nearby Temple Street Night Market. As with other markets lacking fixed prices, those perceived as being tourists will be quoted a higher price—so bring your sharpest bargaining skills. Be careful as the market also sells some realistic non-authentic goods (fake Louis Vuitton bags are popular). The pedestrian zone is mostly for electronics and contains clothing stores from Hong Kong's most popular chains. The easiest way to get into the area is through Mong Kok MTR station, Exit B2 or B3.
 * In Mong Kok, Tung Choi Street (通菜街), popularly known as the Ladies' Market (女人街), is Hong Kong's biggest outdoor shopping experience. Prices here may not be the cheapest, as the area is popular with tourists, but the variety, chaos and sheer number of sellers is mind-boggling and well worth the visit. It is also opened during daytime, unlike the nearby Temple Street Night Market. As with other markets lacking fixed prices, those perceived as being tourists will be quoted a higher price—so bring your sharpest bargaining skills. Be careful as the market also sells some realistic non-authentic goods (fake Louis Vuitton bags are popular). The pedestrian zone is mostly for electronics and contains clothing stores from Hong Kong's most popular chains. The easiest way to get into the area is through Mong Kok MTR station, Exit B2 or B3.

Currency exchange
To exchange money in Tsim Sha Tsui, head to the shopping center on Nathan Road. You can find good rates at some of the currency exchange places inside (not the ones at the entrance, which are a rip-off).

Eat
Kowloon is a great place to go for cheap and authentic Chinese, Indian, Nepalese and Thai food. It makes a welcome change from following the sophisticates who dine across the harbour in Soho. However, for those who seriously want to splurge, some of the swankiest restaurants are to be found Kowloon-side.

Budget

 * The Chinese fast food chain Café de Coral has numerous locations in Kowloon. The one on the corner of Ichang Street and Ashley Road in Tsim Sha Tsui is believed by many to offer some of the best food (for its price) in Hong Kong. These restaurants tend to get crowded easily, but there is a number of alternatives available, such as Fairwood, MX by Maxims among others.
 * The Chinese fast food chain Café de Coral has numerous locations in Kowloon. The one on the corner of Ichang Street and Ashley Road in Tsim Sha Tsui is believed by many to offer some of the best food (for its price) in Hong Kong. These restaurants tend to get crowded easily, but there is a number of alternatives available, such as Fairwood, MX by Maxims among others.

Drink

Notable watering holes:

Drinking areas:

Be wary of entering the girlie bars scattered around the southern tip of Tsim Sha Tsui. Their entrances are usually decorated with photos of women in various stages of undress. Strip bars are not popular with locals for good reason. There are reports of these places being owned by rough people, even triads, and they may place unexpected exorbitant charges on your tab (such as a fee to talk to a girl). They may even escort you to an ATM if you don't have enough cash. The days of Suzie Wong have long passed. These places are very much not-recommended.

Hostess Clubs

Budget
A large number of guesthouses and hostels are located in Tsim Sha Tsui, Mong Kok and Jordan offering cheap, small but generally comfortable and safe accommodation licensed by the Hong Kong government. These are barebone places to stay so there will be no restaurants, souvenir shops or newspaper delivery. Most owners will only speak basic English. Chung King Mansions and Mirador Mansions, both on Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui, and the Sincere House on 83 Argyle St in Mong Kok are famously home to a number of budget hotels and hostels. Having attracted western backpackers for decades, these guesthouses have become increasingly popular with budget travellers from mainland China. Staying at budget hotels is entirely at your own risk and you are advised to seek recommendations from other travellers and to look at visit several rooms in the same hostel/hotel and to visit different hotels/hostels before paying. It's also recommended to pay for only one night and leave in the morning if doesn't work out or, if it does, pay for additional nights as needed in the morning. Please remember to post your own recommendations here.

Expect budget hotel rooms to be undecorated and small with only a bed (or beds), night stand, telephone and television. Noise from fellow travellers may be a problem, so invest in good earplugs. Most will have "in-suite" bathrooms while others have communal bathrooms. Upon check-in, you should ask the owner how to turn on the water boiler unless you want to shower with cold water. Some guesthouses will include free wireless Internet. Virtually all rooms will come with air-conditioning.

Bookings are not needed and some Wikivoyagers have reported that bookings have not always been honoured. The best way to secure a room is simply by arriving at around 1PM, when many of last night's guests have just checked out. Ask to see the room before paying, and you should pay for only one night. If you're happy with the first night, the owner will almost always happily extend your stay. You should also ask if there's 24 hour unassisted entrance (which is recommended) or if you have to ring a bell at night. Credit cards aren't accepted, it's cash only. Remember to ask for a receipt with check-in and check-out dates clearly printed.

Prices generally range from $150–250 per night for a single room with en-suite bathrooms. If you are comfortable with a community bathroom, expect to pay about $120. If you know how long you are staying, negotiate in advance to get a lower rate: they want your business over several days, so they will be willing to drop their prices to even $90 a night for a four or five night stay. However some less honest managers tend to increase their prices dramatically around public holidays, in which case it will take either a reservation or a very hard bargaining to get back to the prices mentioned above (or you can simply try and pick a good one, but it can take several hours). Never accept the initial price, and bargain down by pointing out problems with the room (broken fan/AC, lights not working, something dirty, etc.) or spending a bit of time in the lobby considering your options. During the weekend prices are generally higher so it's easier to negotiate on weekdays.

 * is a large multi-story block at 36-44 Nathan Road containing some 40 budget hotels and hostels, plus flop-houses and places of assignation. Good central location (facing Peking Rd) near Tsim Sha Tsui MTR stations, airport bus A21 stops just outside. Enter at No. 40 through a picket of touts into the ground floor mall, a Little India of cheap cafes (see "Eat"), currency exchanges, sim-card shops and the like. The lifts are slow, poky and rickety, some patched together with plywood like a failed junior school project, and with long queues to use them. That's one reason to prefer accommodation on the lower floors where you can use the stairs instead, but the main reason is that the building is a serious fire hazard: passageways and stairs are strewn with combustibles, staff smoke next to these, there's loose electric cabling, and cafes juggling hot ghee on the ground floor.
 * Peninsula Guest House: one to avoid, as many travellers report being rooked by the boss. The same shady individual also ran "Fortunate Guest House" here, but this appears unrelated to "New Fortunate Guest House" which has good reviews.
 * is another multi-story block just north of Chungking Mansions, at 58 Nathan Rd. It has at least 50 small hotels and hostels within, but the external appearance is less tatty. It is at the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station (Exits D1 & N5)
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * Peninsula Guest House: one to avoid, as many travellers report being rooked by the boss. The same shady individual also ran "Fortunate Guest House" here, but this appears unrelated to "New Fortunate Guest House" which has good reviews.
 * is another multi-story block just north of Chungking Mansions, at 58 Nathan Rd. It has at least 50 small hotels and hostels within, but the external appearance is less tatty. It is at the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station (Exits D1 & N5)
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is another multi-story block just north of Chungking Mansions, at 58 Nathan Rd. It has at least 50 small hotels and hostels within, but the external appearance is less tatty. It is at the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station (Exits D1 & N5)
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is another multi-story block just north of Chungking Mansions, at 58 Nathan Rd. It has at least 50 small hotels and hostels within, but the external appearance is less tatty. It is at the Tsim Sha Tsui MTR Station (Exits D1 & N5)
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.
 * is a large multi-story block at 83 Argyle in Mong Kok containing multiple hotels and hostels. It is near the Mong Kok MTR Station (Exit D2), a couple of blocks west at the Argyle Center.

Mid-range

Connect
The list of free Wifi hotspots in Kowloon can be found on Wi-Fi.HK, courtesy of the Hong Kong Government. Also, the MTR provides free Wifi free connectivity of up to 15 minutes, details about particular stations can be found here.

Go next

 * Central, accessible by MTR, bus or ferry.
 * There is a direct ferry to Wan Chai from the Star Ferry Pier in Tsim Sha Tsui.
 * Lantau Island, with its glorious views of untouched nature, is just a few MTR stations away.
 * The New Territories, a part of Hong Kong arguably least popular with visitors with a lot of hidden gem destinations for you to explore.

title: Hong Kong/Kowloon


text:
Hong Kong/Lantau

Lantau (Chinese: 大嶼山; Cantonese: Daaih Yùh Sāan) is the largest island in Hong Kong. Despite having the airport and Disneyland, it offers quiet mountains and villages that seem a world away from the busy pace of life in Kowloon.

Understand
With the opening of the Lantau Link, a road and rail connection between the airport and central Hong Kong in 1997, Lantau Island is now firmly connected to the mainland of the Kowloon peninsula. The new airport at Chek Lap Kok has led to the establishment and rapid expansion of a new town, Tung Chung, and the improved transport links have brought further development in the shape of Disneyland, a cable car to Ngong Ping monastery, and an entire new road to southern Lantau. Sizeable sections of Lantau Island are country parks, though the island seems poised for more development.

There are four sizeable communities on Lantau:

 * Discovery Bay – a resort-style residential district approximately 30 minutes by boat from Central District, 20 minutes by bus from Tung Chung and 10 minutes by bus from the nearest MTR metro station (Sunny Bay). It is home to about 15,000 people, including a large portion of expatriates.
 * Tung Chung – brand new apartments close to the airport
 * Mui Wo – large, quiet village popular with expatriates who are not taken with the sterility of Discovery Bay
 * Tai O – traditional fishing village, with most houses on stilts in the river. Very scenic and crowded with tourists on weekends.

From the airport
Lantau Island is adjacent to, and linked to the airport island by two short bridges. The best ways from the airport are taxi and bus. There is no train service from the airport to Lantau, and it is probably cheaper to take a taxi than to take the Airport Express train to Tsing Yi and come back via the standard MTR.

Blue coloured taxis from the airport to anywhere in Lantau are relatively fast and pleasant, however they can be in short supply on weekends. (You can call a number displayed at the taxi stand to try and get one faster). Red and green taxis are (only) allowed to take you to Tung Chung and Disneyland on Lantau, although their use for short distances is generally discouraged by the airport staff and despised by the drivers.

Alternatively, there are frequent buses that travel towards Tung Chung MTR station, including S1, S56 (express), S64 (less direct) and N64 (night service) from the airport terminal. Although you can use the A35 or N35 (night service) for traveling to Mui Wo directly from the airport, the frequency of this particular route is sparse. It's usually better to change on to local buses at Tung Chung MTR interchange, where you can find buses to most destinations across Lantau island.

It's about a 5-km walk from the airport to Tung Chung. The main (northern) bridge is a highway that doesn't allow pedestrians, but there is a nice walkway over the southern bridge. Considering the bus fare is around $4, you shouldn't have to consider this option.

By train
The Tung Chung MTR line is the fastest way to get to Lantau if you are going to the north of the island. The Tung Chung line also connects with special rail services at Sunny Bay that take visitors directly to Disneyland.

The trip to Tung Chung takes around 30 minutes all the way from Hong Kong station and costs $22.4-25.5. Children 11 years and under get a 50% discount.

There is a monthly ticket for this line available at the MTR stations, although you would have to use it every day to make much saving from it.

By boat
The obvious way of getting to the island is to take a ferry. Ferries depart from the Outlying Islands pier in Central, to the west of the Star Ferry terminal. The largest operator is the Sun Ferry.

 * Discovery Bay: Pier 3, $31 (fast only), every 10–30 minutes. Ferry Link
 * Mui Wo: Pier 6, $13.00 (slow), $25.50 (fast), every 40 minutes.

Ferries to the island, and buses to/from/within the southern parts, impose a 50% surcharge for travel on Sundays and public holidays. It's cheaper, and less crowded, to visit during the week or on Saturdays.

Tuen Muen->Tung Chung->Tai O: There is a small ferry that runs between Tuen Muen in the New Territories to Tung Chung on Lantau to the touristic fishing village of Tai O on Lantau every day in the mornings and afternoons. If you are visiting Tai O then this ferry might be a nice way back to Tung Chung. (The Tung Chung ferry pier is however a long walk from the MTR/Bus station; a feeder bus service 37S is provided on Saturday, Sundays and public holidays.)

By bus
There are buses from all parts of Hong Kong that go to the Airport, and are cheaper than taking the Airport Express. (A bus from the airport to Hong Kong Island will cost around $21–40, compared with $110–115 for the AE.)

Tung Chung has some bus connections to Hong Kong as well. Although slightly slower, they are usually a cheaper and more comfortable option than taking the MTR train. Worth noting are:
 * the E11/E11A to Central, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay
 * the E21/E21A to Sham Shui Po, Mong Kok
 * the E22/E22A to Wong Tai Sin, Kwun Tong
 * the E33 to Tuen Mun
 * the E34A to Tin Shui Wai (via Wetland Park)
 * the E34B to Yuen Long
 * the E41 to Tai Po
 * the E42 to Sha Tin

On Sundays and public holidays there are direct services (route 1R) from Hung Hom Ferry Pier in Kowloon to Ngong Ping via Tsim Sha Tsui, Jordan, Yau Ma Tei, Mong Kok and Sham Shui Po.

By car
Whilst you can drive your car onto Lantau, the road system is limited and much of the island is zoned as a country park and is off-limits to normal vehicles. If you really want to see Lantau you should get out of your car. The Disneyland is however still accessible by car and connected by the Lantau Link expressway.

From Mainland China

 * Airport: There are many buses connecting the bus stations in Terminal 2 of Airport to various locations on the mainland, including Shenzhen and Guangzhou
 * Tung Chung: There is a frequent direct bus connection between the Citygate Shopping outlet in Tung Chung and the Huanggang border crossing in Shenzhen

From Macau
There is a ferry between Macau and the Hong Kong International Airport a few times a day, although it appears you can only use this if you are going to board a flight and not to disembark on Lantau itself.

By bus
On Lantau seemingly short distances on a map (e.g. Tung Chung to Ngong Ping, less than 6 km by cable car) can take a while by road, due to the twisty mountain roads and their circuitous routes.

The major bus interchange in Lantau locates nearby the Tung Chung MTR Station. New Lantau Bus serves many bus routes which connect to most of the attractions and villages along the Lantau Island. Bus routes traveling within south Lantau region connect places including Tai O and Mui Wo.

A few routes worth knowing are:
 * 1 (and its night service N1) connecting Mui Wo and Tai O;
 * 2 connecting Mui Wo and Ngong Ping;
 * 3M (and its night service N35) connecting Tung Chung and Mui Wo;
 * 11 connecting Tung Chung and Tai O;
 * 21 connecting Tai O and Ngong Ping; and
 * 23 connecting Tung Chung and Ngong Ping.

By taxi
Blue taxis are allowed to take you anywhere on Lantau Island. There are not so many of them, so be careful to rely on them during busy times. The fares are slightly cheaper than the red Hong Kong taxis.

Red taxis are allowed to serve Lantau except the roads in southern Lantau and Tung Chung Road. Green taxis can only pickup/drop off passengers at the airport, Disneyland and Hong Kong Section of Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macao Bridge.

By bicycle
Mui Wo: There is at least one bicycle shop in Mui Wo (just opposite the main bus station), where you can rent bicycles hourly or for the whole day.

Yat Tung: There are a few bicycle shops in Yat Tung (close to Tung Chung) with bikes for rent.

By foot
If you are not going too far, there are generally convenient footpaths all over the island. There are paved paths all around Mui Wo to some of the villages, many of which are within a 30-minute walk or less.

Most routes do not have any amenities and it can get very hot in summer months. Hiking between June and October is not recommended, although people do it.

Popular routes include:

 * Tung Chung -> Mui Wo: 3–4 hours with easy climb through the countryside
 * Tung Chung -> Tai O: 4 hours walking around the coastal path. (Note very limited facilities and exit points on the trail itself)
 * Discovery Bay -> Mui Wo: 3 hour hike past the Trappist Monastery
 * Tung Chung -> Ngong Ping: 4–5 hours. Very difficult climb following the cable car route. Walk past the Yat Tung estate and follow the path to Tai O. The trail directly up the mountain should be obvious and is well signposted.

By cable car
Ngong Ping 360 is a spectacular 5.7-km cable car journey between Tung Chung and Ngong Ping on Lantau Island, which is easily accessible from Tung Chung MTR station.

A single trip costs $160 ($235 round trip) on normal days and more on special days. The cabins glide over the South China Sea and the verdant mountainous terrain of the North Lantau Country Park for 20–25 minutes and provide some of the best panoramic views in Hong Kong, including the Hong Kong International Airport and the Tian Tan Buddha Statue.

This is one of Hong Kong's main tourist attractions, and lines can be very long. Tickets can be purchased online.

Watch out for people trying to sell you tickets outside the station. The latest trend was to sell you a single tour on the cable car and an all-day pass for the Lantau bus system. While it might be nice to take the cable car up to the Buddha (the line for the cable car can be long), and the bus back, the all-day pass for the bus is probably a waste of money.

See

 * Chinese White Dolphins. In the waters just off Tung Chung on Lantau Island, live the Chinese White Dolphins. These dolphins are naturally pink and live in the wild, but their status is threatened. Their population is estimated to be 100–200. Take a boat trip with Hong Kong Dolphinwatch to see these pink dolphins, and if you're lucky you can watch them jumping and playing.
 * Chinese White Dolphins. In the waters just off Tung Chung on Lantau Island, live the Chinese White Dolphins. These dolphins are naturally pink and live in the wild, but their status is threatened. Their population is estimated to be 100–200. Take a boat trip with Hong Kong Dolphinwatch to see these pink dolphins, and if you're lucky you can watch them jumping and playing.

Do

 * Cheung Sha beach which is about a 20-minute bus ride away has windsurfing and canoe rentals.
 * Hikers may wish to try the 70-km Lantau Trail, which does loops around the island. The full route would take several days but is divided into a dozen stages, some of which take less than an hour. There are many other hikes on Lantau, some of which are listed below.
 * Mui wo-Discovery bay trail, 1-1½ hr. Crosses several hills and valleys, the tops of which can give views of the Hong Kong skyline on clear days.
 * Sunset Peak, 869 metres, 1½-2 hrs, about 7 km. This hike starts at the Nam San base station (approx. 300 m altitude), an outdoor area with picnic tables, a vending machine and flushing toilets. Follow the sign for the Nam San tree walk, a relatively flat trail through a forest with signs describing the trees seen along the route. About 5 minutes into this walk, you will come to a junction. Here you can either take the tree walk back to Nam San, or follow the trail marked "Sunset Peak". The trail first follows some switchbacks through the forest, then ascends above the treeline and runs along a ridge. On clear days, the summit offers spectacular views of the whole of Lantau Island and the southwestern new territories. There are cabins at the summit, which can be rented by following the URLs painted on the side.
 * Swim at Silvermine Beach in Mui Wo or at any of the other beaches around the island.
 * Have a BBQ on the beach
 * Discovery Bay : This expat community has some special events and festivals worth seeing, including Dragonboat races (around May/June), Halloween Festival (October) and the Multi-Cultural Festival (usually in November).
 * Discovery Bay : This expat community has some special events and festivals worth seeing, including Dragonboat races (around May/June), Halloween Festival (October) and the Multi-Cultural Festival (usually in November).

Buy
Tung Chung: There is a large mall called CityGate Outlets, next to the MTR Station, that has many 'factory shops' of many famous clothes and fashion brands, such as Adidas, Esprit, Giordano, Levi's, Nike, Quiksilver and Timberland. This mall is very popular with mainland Chinese tourists. The prices are cheaper, although the items for sale may not be the latest. The cheapest prices are during the end-of-season sales. In most shops in City Gate there is no refund policy. Next to CityGate is a more downmarket mall called 'Fu Tung Plaza', which has a limited number of local shops, many local restaurants and a Hong Kong style wet market.

Tai O: There are lots of tourist shops selling local food and delicacies.

Mui Wo: There are some novelty and food shops, although generally not a great deal here.

Discovery Bay: At the heart of the community lies the commercial centre, DB Plaza, where residents and visitors gather for socializing or functions. As a residential district, most shops serve residents' needs - including supermarkets, banks and chemists; but there also exist a sizable number of independent and novelty shops. For the tourist there is very little here.

Eat

 * The Po Lin Monastery's vegetarian restaurant is well worth a visit for a taste of Chinese vegetarian food, an art form devoted to turning soybean products into very passable imitations of meat and fish, even if you are not a vegetarian. Meals served from 11AM-4:30PM. A regular meal is $60, a deluxe meal is $100, enquire at the Big Buddha ticket booth.
 * The Po Lin Monastery's vegetarian restaurant is well worth a visit for a taste of Chinese vegetarian food, an art form devoted to turning soybean products into very passable imitations of meat and fish, even if you are not a vegetarian. Meals served from 11AM-4:30PM. A regular meal is $60, a deluxe meal is $100, enquire at the Big Buddha ticket booth.

Mui Wo

 * Bombay Cafe, Mui Wo. Great Curries at a reasonable price.
 * Bombay Cafe, Mui Wo. Great Curries at a reasonable price.
 * Bombay Cafe, Mui Wo. Great Curries at a reasonable price.

Sleep
There are some guesthouses (a few of which call themselves hotels) and two hostels on Lantau. Lantau also has 10 campsites. When you get off the ferry pier in Mui Wo, there are some booths were you can rent apartments for the weekend. There are several small cabins for hikers at Sunset Peak which go for $300 per cabin/night (sleeps about six people, but very old). There is also accommodation at Disneyland, at the Disneyland Hotel, the Disney Hollywood Hotel, and the Disney Explorer's Lodge.

Go next
Take the ferry, bus or train back to Central. There are also inter-island ferries to Peng Chau and Cheung Chau.

ランタオ島

title: Hong Kong/Lantau


text:
Hong Kong/New Territories

The New Territories (新界) of Hong Kong were leased by China to the British in 1898. Often ignored by travellers who have little time to spare, they offer a diverse landscape that takes time to get to know. Mountainous country parks overlook New Towns that have a clinical form of modernity that has attracted many to move here from mainland China. Public transport and taxis make this area surprisingly accessible if you dare to get out and explore this offbeat place. You won't find many idyllic villages, but once you get over the stray dogs and the ramshackle buildings you will doubtlessly find something that will surprise and cause you to reach for your camera.

Get in
Areas near the border with mainland China are part of the Frontier Closed Area, meaning that it is illegal for non-residents to be there without a permit unless you are crossing the border. Permits can be applied for from the Hong Kong police, but will usually not be approved unless you are a close family member of a local resident. A pilot Tourism Closed Area Permit Scheme has opened up a limited number of permits for tourists to visit Sha Tau Kok only.

By train
The MTR has absorbed the old Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR) to form a larger network that links the New Territories with Kowloon. Confusingly, you may find some local people still referring to the railways in the New Territories as the KCR.

The East Rail Line from Admiralty connects to Sheung Shui, Fanling, Tai Po and Sha Tin on its way to the border with Shenzhen at Lo Wu and Lok Ma Chau.

The western section of the Tuen Ma Line from Mei Foo or Nam Cheong is the choice if you want to go to Tsuen Wan, Kam Tin, Long Ping, Yuen Long, Tin Shui Wai or Tuen Mun, while the eastern section provides service between Diamond Hill and Woo Kai Sha, and is convenient for heading out east towards the Sai Kung peninsula.

The Light Rail network in the west region of New Territories might be a good transportation means if you intend to travel through some of the areas in between Yuen Long, Tin Shui Wai or Tuen Mun. There are several interchange stations with the Tuen Ma line along the network and there is a fare discount when you are interchanging from the Tuen Ma line to the Light Rail, or vice versa, if you are using the Octopus card.

By bus
Kowloon Motor Bus operates a large number of bus routes to the New Territories. Many routes depart from Kowloon to the New Territories.

 * To Tuen Mun: 52X, 53, 57M, 58M, 58X, 59M, 59X, 60M, 60X, 61M, 61X, 62X, 66, 66M, 66X, 67M, 67X, 258D, 259D, 260X, 261, 263, 263M, 960, 961, 962
 * To Tai Po: 72, 72X, 73X, 74A, 74X, 75X, 271, 307 (from Central, Hong Kong).
 * From the airport: E41, E42, E33, E34, A41, A41P, A43

Bus 64K from Tai Po to Yuen Long provides a convenient (if rather slow) shortcut across the Territories, passing some attractions including the Wishing Tree and the walled village of Kat Hing Wai along the way.

 * To Sai Kung: take the MTR to Diamond Hill station, leave the MTR and follow signs to the bus station that is located at ground level above the station. Take bus 92 to Sai Kung and allow 45 minutes for the journey.
 * MTR also operates several local bus routes within Tuen Mun, Yuen Long and Tai Po, which mostly contain intermediate bus stop or terminus in some major railway stations, providing a connection service between some residential areas and villages and town centres.

By bike
Whilst cycling on Hong Kong Island or Kowloon may be suicidal due to the hostile traffic conditions, things are much easier in the New Territories. Quiet countryside roads, mountain-bike trails and segregated cycle paths alongside busy roads make for pleasant cycling for people of all abilities. Bike rental is available from many locations including Sha Tin, Tai Po Market and Yuen Long, to name a few. Rental fees are approx $30-60 per day for a standard 21-speed commuter bike, or up to $150 a day for a top-end road or mountain bike. It's advisable to keep a good supply of water if you plan on cycling away form the urban areas, as high temperatures and hilly terrain can cause rapid dehydration. Once away from the new towns, there won't be a 7-Eleven in sight. Although small local convenience shops, called 士多 (translated from the English word "store") are common in some villages, especially along famous cycling routes (usually they would have a soft-drink logo advertisement printed next to their name of the shop billboard), their opening times might be unpredictable for tourists.

See

The main attractions of the New Territories are about experiencing rural life in Hong Kong life, as opposed to the urban energy of Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon peninsula. Although Hong Kong island has some attractive country parks they are eclipsed by those in the more remote areas of the New Territories. The New Towns are of limited interest to most Western tourists for whom the most engaging settlement in the New Territories is Sai Kung which has a number of restaurants and bars that will appeal to visitors because of its slower pace of life. Sai Kung also acts as a gateway into some of the best countryside you are likely to find in Hong Kong.

Landmarks

 * Red House, near Tuen Mun Public Riding School (Light Rail Butterfly station). This is a memorial building to Dr. Sun Yat-sen. The house and the farm was where Dr. Sun Yat-sen planned to overthrow the Qing dynasty. It is named after its appearance, red bricks with plastering in red. The two-storey house is a combination of Chinese and Western architecture. Adjacent to the house is a garden commemorating Dr. Sun Yat Sen and is one of a few places in Hong Kong where the Flag of the Republic of China is flown freely.

Nature

 * The Sai Kung Peninsula is also a worthwhile place to visit. Its mountainous terrain and spectacular coastal scenery make this a special place. If you like challenging routes, try going to Sharp Peak (Nam She Tsim in Cantonese). Sharp Peak is famous for its steep slope with a height of more than 400m. The view from the top is fantastic. For a more relaxed route, try to walk along Section 2 of Maclehose Trail.
 * Yan Chau Tong Marine Park.
 * A few traditional abandoned villages are connected with hiking trails in the territory. North East New Territories is a famous hiking hot spot for the locals.
 * Fung Yuen Butterfly Reserve is home to over 200 species of butterflies, many of which are uncommon elsewhere.
 * A few traditional abandoned villages are connected with hiking trails in the territory. North East New Territories is a famous hiking hot spot for the locals.
 * Fung Yuen Butterfly Reserve is home to over 200 species of butterflies, many of which are uncommon elsewhere.
 * Fung Yuen Butterfly Reserve is home to over 200 species of butterflies, many of which are uncommon elsewhere.

Temples

Local life

To learn about the living environment of Hong Kong's ordinary people, the best way is to have a half-day trip to a public housing estate. A public housing estate is a small community, where you can find residential flats in high-rise storeys as well as commercial complex and cultural facilities. Start the trip in the morning by "Yum Cha" in a Chinese restaurant or food stall in an estate, then visit the commercial centre and the fresh food market. See the life of school children in the afternoon on the lunch break, and visit the community hall and the library to experience Hong Kong life.
 * Siu Hong Court is right next to Siu Hong MTR Station. In the middle of the court, you can find a fortune which is a ball shape. The lower part represent the bowl and the upper part is the rice. It represent that every people can have a good life after living here.
 * Tsz Tin Village right next to Siu Hong Court. A traditional Hong Kong village.
 * Wan Tau Tong Estate is a 5-minute walk from Tai Po Market MTR Station.
 * Kwong Fuk Estate can be reached by taking the free MTR feeder bus K18 from Tai Po Market MTR Station.
 * Cheung Wah Estate can be reached on foot after arriving Fanling MTR Station.
 * Choi Yuen Estate is adjacent to Sheung Shui MTR Station.

Do
The New Territories offer a wealth of hiking and sports opportunities as well as one favoured Hong Kong pastime, horse racing.

Outdoor sports

 * Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.
 * Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.
 * Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.
 * Tuen Mun (屯門), Tuen Mun MTR (West Rail Line). At the far western tip of the New Territories, Tuen Mun has the popular Golden Beach (actually an artificial beach, with sand imported from Hainan) and the Tuen Mun Kau Hui market.

Buy
There are very few products that are unique to the New Territories; however Yuen Long is home to three of the best and best known traditional bakeries in Hong Kong: "Hang Heung", "Wing Wah" and "Tai Tung", "Wing Wah" is also one of the best known producers of traditional wind dried sausages and meats. Especially during the period around the Mid-autumn Festival, when moon cakes become available, mainland Chinese tourists will buy cakes and pastries of various kinds as souvenirs and gifts. The "wife cake" (candied winter melon paste in a flaky pastry wrapping) has perhaps gained the most traction in public consciousness, but all three produce a range of traditional Chinese cakes and pastries, these include red bean paste pastries, mung bean pastries, lotus paste and preserved duck egg pastries and of course moon cakes. Vegetarians, Muslims and Jews beware: many traditional pastries, including the wife cake, have pork lard as one of their ingredients.

 * Uptown Plaza next to Tai Po Market Railway Station is a regional shopping centre in Tai Po.
 * Tai Wo Shopping Mall next to Tai Wo Station is a typical shopping centre in a public housing estate. Do not expect a variety choice of shops are available, but goods are at reasonable price because the target customers are local people.
 * Hang Heung (恒香), located in Yuen Long (元朗) at 64-66 Castle Peak Road, is arguably Hong Kong's most famous Chinese bakery and famous among ethnic Chinese worldwide for its wife cakes (老婆餅). Other products include egg rolls (蛋卷) and almond biscuits (杏仁餅). To get there, take the Light Rail from the Yuen Long MTR station and alight at Tai Tong Road (大棠道) station.
 * Uptown Plaza next to Tai Po Market Railway Station is a regional shopping centre in Tai Po.
 * Tai Wo Shopping Mall next to Tai Wo Station is a typical shopping centre in a public housing estate. Do not expect a variety choice of shops are available, but goods are at reasonable price because the target customers are local people.
 * Hang Heung (恒香), located in Yuen Long (元朗) at 64-66 Castle Peak Road, is arguably Hong Kong's most famous Chinese bakery and famous among ethnic Chinese worldwide for its wife cakes (老婆餅). Other products include egg rolls (蛋卷) and almond biscuits (杏仁餅). To get there, take the Light Rail from the Yuen Long MTR station and alight at Tai Tong Road (大棠道) station.
 * Hang Heung (恒香), located in Yuen Long (元朗) at 64-66 Castle Peak Road, is arguably Hong Kong's most famous Chinese bakery and famous among ethnic Chinese worldwide for its wife cakes (老婆餅). Other products include egg rolls (蛋卷) and almond biscuits (杏仁餅). To get there, take the Light Rail from the Yuen Long MTR station and alight at Tai Tong Road (大棠道) station.

Eat
Even in the New Territories you are never far from international chains such as McDonalds, or local chains such as Cafe de Coral, Fairwoods and Maxims MX. These all serve up a cheap and safe, if somewhat uninspired, standardised menu across their stores, and if no English speaking staff or English menu are available will at the very least have pictures of the menu that you can point at. If you do not feel like eating chain restaurant food, and are not adventurous enough to try your luck with a menu you cannot read and staff you cannot understand, try one of the local self service bakeries for a quick and cheap lunch, you'll find both sweet and savoury filled breads.

Compared with restaurants in Kowloon or Hong Kong Island, the New Territories offers a good range of local dishes, but at a cheaper price. The restaurants recommended here are unlikely to have English menus and the staff are probably not able to speak very good English or Mandarin. If the place is busy, the staff will not have time to help you.

Budget
In the New Territories, there are many places suitable for budget diners with multiple options of cuisine.

 * Wo Sang next to Kei Lun Light rail station in Tuen Mun. It is famous for its traditional Hong Kong dishes. You can sit next to the kitchen and watch how they cook the fried dishes. The roast goose here is also famous.
 * Learn Hop 兩合特色餐廳 next to the Siu Hong MTR station. Located inside the Siu Hong Commercial Complex. It is famous for its choice of Guangdong, wonton and dumpling noodles. Also serves Zha jiang mian.
 * Chan Kun Kee in Wo Che Estate, Sha Tin. A typical Dai Pai Dong in Hong Kong providing a variety of Cantonese dishes. Get off at Sha Tin Railway Station and take a taxi to Wo Che Estate.
 * Cheung Wah Estate Cooked Food Centre near Fanling MTR Station. It is a cooked food centre located in a public housing estate. Dishes start at $10 up.
 * Pai Tau Restaurant, Pai Tau Rd, Sha Tin. This little eatery in a stretch of old shophouses near MTR Sha Tin offers basic Cantonese fare with lunch sets for around $25. No English menu, but the staff are happy to assist.
 * The mall adjacent to the Tsuen Wan MTR station has many cheap little restaurants and the blocks surrounding it have lots of small bakeries. There are worse ways to spend an early morning than wandering around, inhaling the scent of the neighbourhood and snacking on wonderfully flavoured buns and confections from these establishments.
 * The mall adjacent to the Tsuen Wan MTR station has many cheap little restaurants and the blocks surrounding it have lots of small bakeries. There are worse ways to spend an early morning than wandering around, inhaling the scent of the neighbourhood and snacking on wonderfully flavoured buns and confections from these establishments.

Mid-range

If you're looking for an evening out whilst touring in the New Territories, head for Sai Kung (西貢) where you will find a good range of visitor-friendly pubs and restaurants. Sai Kung is rightly famous for its seafood restaurants along the quayside, where you can pick your dinner from an aquarium and have it served any way you like. However, if downing a bucket of bottled beers whilst munching on a plate of crustaceans is not your thing, there is also a fairly good selection of eateries and watering holes to be found in the town centre. Prices here can be reasonable and the cuisine ranges from local to western. Various well-known burger and coffee shops have also found their way to this otherwise secluded part of Hong Kong.

The fastest way to Sai Kung by public transport is to take the MTR to Choi Hung and transfer to minibus 1M (every 5 min) for a straight hop across the mountains. There are public KMB buses from Sha Tin (route 299x) and Wu Kai Sha (route 99) as well, but they take the long way around and spend the better part of an hour in the process. An urban taxi from Central, on Hong Kong island, will cost just under $200 (including tunnel fees).

 * Sham Tseng Yue Kee Roast Goose Restaurant is renowned for its roast goose. You can get there by red minibus from Jordan or Tuen Mun, or regular KMB bus.
 * ASRA Indian Restaurant, Shop 15&19, 1/F Shatin Galleria, Shan Mei St, Fotan. This is a famous Indian restaurant in Shatin, they serves authentic Indian kebabs and curries. Affordable lunch sets and tasty dinner choices available with free parking. Near Fotan Station, exit B.
 * Sham Tseng Yue Kee Roast Goose Restaurant is renowned for its roast goose. You can get there by red minibus from Jordan or Tuen Mun, or regular KMB bus.
 * ASRA Indian Restaurant, Shop 15&19, 1/F Shatin Galleria, Shan Mei St, Fotan. This is a famous Indian restaurant in Shatin, they serves authentic Indian kebabs and curries. Affordable lunch sets and tasty dinner choices available with free parking. Near Fotan Station, exit B.
 * Sham Tseng Yue Kee Roast Goose Restaurant is renowned for its roast goose. You can get there by red minibus from Jordan or Tuen Mun, or regular KMB bus.
 * ASRA Indian Restaurant, Shop 15&19, 1/F Shatin Galleria, Shan Mei St, Fotan. This is a famous Indian restaurant in Shatin, they serves authentic Indian kebabs and curries. Affordable lunch sets and tasty dinner choices available with free parking. Near Fotan Station, exit B.

Drink
In addition to Sai Kung's watering holes (see above), in Tai Po Market there are a number of pubs and country clubs along Kwong Fuk Road and the adjacent Luk Heung Lane, Tung Cheong Street. While lacking the glamour of Hong Kong Island's Central district, the area offers more reasonable prices and a friendlier, more local feel. It is about a 5-minute walk from Tai Po Market MTR Station. Overnight transport is readily available on Kwong Fuk Road to take you back to downtown Kowloon and Hong Kong island.

Postal service

 * Hongkong Post. Has an extensive network of post offices in the New Territories. Some post offices also have a philatelic section and you can purchase Hong Kong stamps and other postal souvenirs there.

Internet access

 * Public libraries provide free access to the Internet. There is at least one library in every district.
 * Community Halls provide wifi to users free of charge.

title: Hong Kong/New Territories


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Hong Kong/Outlying Islands

Hong Kong's Outlying Islands (離島 lèih dóu) are a generic label for the other 234 islands, islets and rocks in the territory.

For tourists, the most popular islands include:
 * Cheung Chau (長洲 Chèuhng Jāu), a small island off Lantau that used to be a pirates' den but now houses mostly windsurfers and sunbathing day trippers
 * Lamma Island (南丫島 Nàahmā dóu) is a relaxed destination with lots of great seafood, hiking and beaches.
 * Peng Chau (坪洲 Pìhng Jāu) to go off the beaten track.
 * Po Toi Islands

Understand
Hong Kong's islands have been and to some extent continue to be Hong Kong's hinterland, home to rustic fishing villages battered by the occasional typhoon, monasteries run by hardscrabble monks and little else. However, the last decade or so have seen some changes. The islands are car-free, so expect plenty of bicycles and a chance to escape the noise, aggression and air pollution associated with the modern motor car.

Get in
Travelling to the Outlying Islands is much simpler and easier than many visitors might suppose. Most tourists and local residents use the frequent and inexpensive ferry services to travel to their preferred island. The exceptions to this rule are the smaller and more remote islands where you will need to either hire a boat to take you there or investigate the less frequent and more informal boat services that can, sometimes, be hard to find. However, most Hong Kong people never concern themselves with the smaller islands, so simply head for the Central ferry terminals (alongside the Star Ferry) and make your choice. Having an Octopus card will speed you through the gates because some ferry services only accept payment using coins or Octopus.

See the main Hong Kong article on how to get and use the Octopus Card.

Some services impose a 50% surcharge for travel on Sundays and public holidays. Therefore, it's usually cheaper and less crowded to visit during the week or on Saturdays. Paying more for a premium seat on a ferry is usually a disappointing experience.

By boat
Ferries for all major islands of interest depart from the Outlying Islands pier in Central, to the west of the Star Ferry terminal. The largest operators are New World First Ferry and the Hong Kong and Kowloon Ferry Company. Some ferries come in slow (or "ordinary") and fast versions. The slow ferry is generally available every other departure, so if the fast ferry comes every thirty minutes, the slow ferry will come every hour. When time tables show an asterisk beside a departure time, it usually means that a slow ferry is available in addition to the fast ferry.

There is also a local ferry service from Aberdeen to Lamma Island (Mo Tat and Sok Kwu Wan).

 * Tap Man Chau: Ferry from Wong Shek Pier in Sai Kung or from Ma Liu Shui Pier near Chinese University.
 * Po Toi: The Chuen Kee Ferry departs once a day leaving from Aberdeen, via Stanley. There is also a kaito from Aberdeen every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.
 * Tung Lung Chau: Ferries from Lei Yue Mun pier in Kowloon, and from Sai Wan Ho, Hong Kong island. for more information.
 * Soko islands: there is no public transport to the Soko islands; you will need to hire a sampan from the harbour at Cheung Chau.
 * Tung Ping Chau: Limited service from Ma Liu Shui pier taking 90 minutes.
 * Waglan Island: Permission is needed first from the Marine Department.
 * Kwo Chau islands: They are uninhabited islands. You have to join a tour or try and rent a small boat (kaito) from Sai Kung.

Get around
On the islands you're pretty much restricted to walking, renting a bike ($10 an hour or $30 a day is typical) or catching a kaito (街渡 gāaidouh), a small ferry, from one pier to the next.

See
Besides participating in the festivals, tourist can visit different sites, for example the temples and caves.

 * Po Toi (蒲台) is famous for its rock formations, such as Tortoise Rock, Buddha's Palm Cliff and Monk Rock. There are also some prehistoric carvings.
 * Soko Islands (索罟群島) are known for the 'rock forest' that surrounds the islands. Tai A Chau also used to have a Vietnamese refugee camp.
 * Tap Mun (塔門) has a Tin Hau temple built between 1662 and 1721, housing a bronze bell made in 1737, and a very large swordfish bone.
 * Tung Lung Chau (東龍洲) has historic stone carvings (700 years old) and the remains of a fort (demolished in 1810). There are also sea caves around the coast.
 * Tung Ping Chau (東平洲) has a 250 year old temple and deserted villages. The island is famous for its beautiful schist rock formations, that have different colours because of the calcium and magnesium in the schist.
 * Waglan Island (橫瀾島) is famous for its lighthouse built in 1893.
 * Ninepin islands (果洲群島) are known for the cliffs and caves around the islands.

Buy
There are not many shopping bargains on the islands. However, beach items tend to be more reasonably priced.

 * Fish Sauce is sold in many locations, including Cheung Chau.

Eat
Lamma and Cheung Chau are well known for a large number of seafood restaurants. The decor of the restaurants are generally basic but clean and should never be seen as an indication of the quality of the food which is usually high.

Drink
Aside from a few pubs on Lamma, the nightlife in the islands is pretty quiet. Island drinking usually amounts to no more than either a few bottles of cheap Chinese beer, or endless cups of jasmine tea.

Sleep
Accommodation on these islands is fairly limited compared to Kowloon and Hong Kong island and consists mainly of guest houses (a few of which call themselves hotels).

title: Hong Kong/Outlying Islands


text:
Hong Kong/Southern District

The Southern District (南區) is the southern part of Hong Kong island.

Understand
The southern side of Hong Kong Island was for many years on the wrong side of the hills. In the early colonial period, when modern air-conditioning was no more than a dream, the south-facing slopes on the island were too sunny for many, and had the added disadvantage of bearing the brunt of torrential rain and the typhoons that sweep in off the South China sea. Today, the southern shore of Hong Kong island is a strong rival to The Peak as one of Hong Kong's most exclusive residential areas. Here you will find extravagant homes with spectacular views over the sea. Visitors to Hong Kong should come south for the excellent beach resorts, theme park and some very good dinning opportunities. On a sunny day, the south-side is a welcome escape from city life and ought to be a compulsory part of your agenda when travelling in Hong Kong.

Aberdeen is a town of approximately 60,000 people on the south side of Hong Kong Island. The town's most famous feature is Aberdeen Harbour, which lies between Aberdeen and the island Ap Lei Chau. The original Chinese settlement on this harbour was named Hong Kong, and when British seafarers landed here in the 19th century they mistook the name of the village for the name of the entire island. The settlement was subsequently renamed Aberdeen after George Hamilton Gordon, the 4th Earl of Aberdeen (Scotland) and the then-current British Secretary of State for War and the Colonies. Keen videogamers may recognise Aberdeen as the setting for the Sega Dreamcast game Shenmue II. Scenes from the Bruce Lee film Enter the Dragon were shot in Aberdeen Harbour.

Stanley (赤柱) is a very pleasant town and one Hong Kong's most exclusive neighbourhoods, favoured by Western expatriates and Chinese military generals alike.

Repulse Bay (淺水灣) is another exclusive town with a fine beach.

Shek O Village is a tiny day trip centre right on the edge of Hong Kong island itself. It feature beautiful scenery, a sandy beach and plenty of restaurants.

Get in
The Southern side of Hong Kong is served by the South Island Line of the MTR. Passengers can board the South Island Line at Admiralty Station if coming from Central. The South Island Line stops at Lei Tung and South Horizons Stations on Ap Lei Chau and at the Wong Chuk Hang Station near Aberdeen. Ocean Park is also served by a dedicated MTR station.

From Hong kong Central you can take one of a number of frequent buses (including 6, 6A or 6X) from the bus station at Exchange Square (next to Central MTR station). The faster buses pass through the Aberdeen tunnel through the middle of the island, although it may be worth to take a slower bus and take in the fantastic views over the top of Hong Kong island.

If you are travelling in a group then a taxi is not an unreasonable proposition and will cost around $120 to most places from Central.

If traveling to Shek O, then the Eastern MTR station of Shau Kei Wan has a bus terminus that will take you there in half an hour.

You can also get into Aberdeen by ferry from Cheung Chau or Lamma Island.

By car, you can also get in via Aberdeen Tunnel or on the east side, Tai Tam Road.

See
The south east coast of Hong Kong island offers visitors some attractive coastal and mountain scenery. It is simply interesting to travel around the two peninsulas found either side of Tai Tam Bay that dangle into the South China sea. This part of Hong Kong does have its own unique charm that is hard to describe; for some visitors it has a Mediterranean feel, whilst others will be reminded of parts of the Californian coast. In reality, it is affluent Hong Kong - drenched in money and bathed in sunshine.

Do
In contrast to the hard shopping and eating elsewhere in Hong Kong, the southern District offers the chance to relax. There are plenty of beaches with traditional Hong Kong style barbeques and local supermarkets cater for demand by selling all the paraphernalia and food needed for such a feast. There is Wakeboarding in Tai Tam, Repulse Bay and Stanley. There is Surfing at Big Wave Bay for around $50 per day.

Buy
Due to the lack of MTR stations, there isn't a great deal of shopping on the south side of Hong Kong island. Aberdeen still has some factory shops.

Eat
The restaurants in this area tend to be far more relaxed and open air than in the rest of Hong Kong.

 * Stanley Main Street If you are looking for formal dinning you could try Stanley where there are a choice of restaurants along the sea front. Here you will find a wide range of styles including, Western, Indian and Asian. Although the quality of the food and service varies, you should find something that will appeal.
 * Stanley Main Street If you are looking for formal dinning you could try Stanley where there are a choice of restaurants along the sea front. Here you will find a wide range of styles including, Western, Indian and Asian. Although the quality of the food and service varies, you should find something that will appeal.

Drink
In Stanley the only nightlife is along the waterfront on Stanley Main Street.

Sleep
There is not too much reason to look for a hotel specifically in the Southern District, since most places can be visited inside a day from Hong Kong Central. Also the lack of MTR stations make it a poor base to explore the rest of Hong Kong. Nevertheless, there are a few options:

Go next
There are a few Outlying Islands reachable from the Southern District:

 * Take a ferry from Aberdeen to Lamma island
 * Take a ferry from Stanley to the Po Toi islands

title: Hong Kong/Southern District


text:
Hong Kong Culinary Tour

Hong Kong people love good food. There is a saying that the Cantonese will "eat anything with four legs except a table, and anything that flies except an aeroplane", and it's true that many of the menu items in Hong Kong (such as chicken feet, pigs ears and jellyfish) are unusual by Western tastes. That being said, people in Hong Kong are in general not as adventurous as their Cantonese-speaking counterparts in mainland China. Keep an open mind and you'll find some of the best food and some of the most enticing flavours anywhere in the world. This is a Culinary Tour of Hong Kong.

Understand
At the geographical centre of Asia, it's not just Chinese cuisine that thrives in Hong Kong. The British colonisation brought a wide variety of Western options to Hong Kong, and the presence of descendants of Indian immigrants brought over by the British during the colonial era also means that there is no shortage of good Indian food to be found. Japanese and Korean food is available throughout the town and less adventurous international dishes, such as pizza and burgers, are also in abundance.

Prepare
This itinerary assumes you're already in Hong Kong, and you won't need anything other than a credit card (for the upmarket places), some cash (for the street side food) and an empty stomach. Guide prices are from 2007.

The main restaurants listed below are good ones at a convenient location for an itinerary, but alternatives are given which can be just as good (or better) if you happen to be searching for a bite to eat in a different part of town.

Whilst most places will speak enough English to understand your order, the following rough Cantonese phrases might help out in the more local spots: eat = "sick (with an unreleased ‘k’ sound)", fish = "yew", chicken = "guy", beef = "ngau" (rhymes with cow), rice = "farn", noodles = "meen", drink = "yum", beer = "bear-jau".

Get in and around
Almost all the locations mentioned here are around central Hong Kong island and are within easy reach of each other by public transport or taxi. If you're unsure of location you can use Centamap to find and print street maps. You can also pick and choose your itinerary to fit in with other travel plans.

Stay safe
Hong Kong is a very safe city, so you shouldn't find any trouble. However in crowded areas such as markets you should keep an eye on your possessions. Also bear in mind that while the restaurants listed below are well established, quality can quickly change and standards can go up and down.

Day 1: Causeway Bay
Times Square is a popular shopping spot, and one of the landmarks in Causeway Bay. This itinerary begins with lunch (you'll need to hit the first restaurant before 2PM), and goes through to dinner (though you'll probably want to mix in some other activities in the afternoon).

Cantonese dim sum lunch
Forget Chicken Chow Mein and Chop Suey: the first Chinese meal you should head for is Dim Sum, served for lunch at restaurants throughout the territory.

Dim sum consists of a number of small dishes, often including steamed buns, dumplings or small deep-fried items, and tea. For the dumplings, rice flour is used as a base for creating a dough, which is stretched thin to make the skin of the dumpling. A mixture of chopped meat, vegetables and seasoning is then placed inside, and the dumpling sealed and steamed for about 10 minutes in a bamboo steamer. Standard dishes include Char Sui Bau (BBQ pork bun), Har Gow (shrimp dumpling), Sui Long Bau (pork dumpling) and for the more adventurous, Chickens feet and jellyfish in sesame oil. Each dish is normally $20-30 (all prices in Hong Kong dollars) per dish, and for two people, you will want to order 6-8 dishes.

If you want to do as the locals do, order a pot of good tea, such as chrysanthemum tea, to accompany your meal.

Recommended:
 * Superstar Seafood, Times Square, Causeway Bay

Other Alternatives:
 * Maxim's at 2/F, City Hall, Central — extremely popular, particularly on weekends, so advance bookings strongly recommended
 * King of the King, basement of Standard Chartered Bank building, Des Voeux Rd, Central
 * "Dim Sum", Sing Woo Road, Happy Valley

Bowrington Road market
A short walk from Times Square (turn left from the main entrance to Times Square and walk under the underpass) is this small fresh market, where you'll see many of the ingredients used in your lunch. Most Cantonese food uses light flavours and emphasise freshness (particularly in the seafood). You'll see live fish, crabs and shrimps sold here by the catty, with vendors using an intriguing rod and weight scale for the larger items. Further along the street you will also find some shops selling dried seafood such as mussels, clams, oysters and scallops. Of course, since the invention of the refrigerator nobody really needs to use dried seafood, but many locals continue to use the ingredients particularly for traditional dishes - often at a large markup from fresh ones!

Japanese sushi for snack or dinner
Sushi and sashimi offer a delicious and light meal. Carefully prepared slices of fresh uncooked fish filet are either eaten alone (sashimi) or combined with rice and wasabi (sushi), and washed down with Japanese green tea. For the best quality, avoid the local chains "Genki" and "Go Sushi" which are crowded, noisy and the food (which has been sat out on a conveyer belt for most of the day) is not that fresh. Instead, go for a restaurant where the food is freshly prepared. A "sampler" platter of around 10 pieces of mixed sushi (usually including salmon, tuna, squid, snapper and prawns) will give you a variety of items to try, but top quality sushi is expensive ($150-300 for this type of dish). If you're still peckish, you may want to follow up with something cheaper and more filling such as a Ramen (noodle soup).

Recommended: Shiro, Shop 1301, 13/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay

Other Alternatives:
 * Tokyo Joe in Lan Kwai Fong, Central

Bee Cheng Hiang barbeque beef snack

Head from Times Square towards the SOGO department store, which is also within walking distance of Times Square (turn right from the Times Square main entrance and follow the crowds). On the way you'll pass Singaporean retailer Bee Cheng Hiang at Lee Garden Road, which sells bakkwa (肉乾), thin slabs of sweet, spiced barbequed pork and beef, somewhere between bacon and jerky in consistency. It's filling stuff, so one slab or a few round "coins" is plenty, and they are also happy to offer a free taste.

Local street food snacks
Opposite SOGO, at the major pedestrian crossing in Causeway Bay is a popular snack shop. Hot snacks such as fish balls, siu mai, octopus legs, offal and soup are skewered and boiled away in vats and smothered in spicy sauces. Each skewer costs around $10, so if in doubt just point at what you want and hand over a $20 bill.

SOGO Japanese supermarket
The basement supermarket in SOGO is a mecca for Hong Kong foodies. The shelves are packed with the unusual, from boil-in-the-bag sweet fungus soup through to Japanese green tea powder, and you might even see the fishmongers carving up a fresh tuna. Throughout the store there are also plenty of tasters on offer, from Chinese soup to dried squid, as well as some stations selling freshly cooked snacks.

While you're here, you might as well hit the fruit section for some Durian (which naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace said was "worth a voyage to the East to experience"). Whilst it's popular amongst the locals, many people dislike the strong smell and different taste. However, you may like it. It is banned on public transport for its smell alone.

Japanese Teppanyaki dinner
A short taxi ride from SOGO, the Renaissance Hotel offers Teppanyaki, or Japanese grill, is a style of food that you won't see much outside Japan. It consist of grilled meat and seafood that is cooked directly in front of you by your own chef. A great experience, and one to try if the thought of eating raw fish puts you off the sushi option above. Although there are normally a-la-carte menus, it makes more sense to plump for one of the sets (usually including a seafood and steak course as well as miso soup, fried rice, vegetables and dessert), which go for around $400 per head. Wash it down with some house sake (hot or cold) or Japanese beer (Sapporo or Asahi).

Recommended:
 * Mitsubishi at Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, Wan Chai

Korean lunch
A country whose national dish is fermented vegetables might not strike you as a major culinary treat (particularly compared to the heavy hitters of the Asian food scene), but Korea sports some excellent dishes. Try Barbequed Short Ribs, Ginseng Chicken Soup, Stone Pot Rice and of course the ubiquitous Kimchi. Dishes are around $100 each, and each meal will be accompanied by a selection of half a dozen small cold dishes including Kimchi, and a variety of vegetables.

Recommended:
 * Secret Garden, Bank of America Tower, Central

Teochew dinner
While Hong Kong is best known for its Cantonese fare, the Teochews also have a significant presence and there is no shortage of good Teochew restaurants in Hong Kong. However, if ordering exotic dishes, be prepared to pay quite a fair bit.

title: Hong Kong Culinary Tour