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Huanchaco

Huanchaco is a city on the northern coast of Peru, 20 minutes by bus from Trujillo's centre.

Understand
Huanchaco is famous for its surfing and the local fishermen's "caballitos". It is a place to relax after visiting Trujillo's colonial centre & archaeological sites. It has a nice mellow beach vibe and lots of places to sleep and eat.

While Peru's northern beaches are supposedly marvellous during the coastal summer (December–March), the winter brings cloudy days. Wetsuits mean that you can surf even during coastal winters, but during the months of June–September, be prepared to wear long sleeves in the evenings, and don't expect sunny days.

Get in
The long distance bus terminals are all in Trujillo. Frequent kombis & taxis cost S/1.50 & S/12 (soles) respectively, from Trujillo or the airport. Taxi drivers prefer to persuade tourists to come to Huanchaco, as there are more opportunities to overcharge from the Trujillo bus terminals, & obtain return trips. For surfers, buses leave Trujillo's Santa Cruz terminal for Puerto Malabrigo (Chicama) every 2 hours. 'Transportes Linea' have the most frequent buses to Pacasmayo, & 'Ormeño' (& others near Ormeño) are the most frequent to Mancora.

The airport is between Trujillo and Huanchaco. Huanchaco is outside of Trujillo, which is 560 km north of Lima. Flying into Lima leaves one with two options on how to get to Trujillo. There is an hour flight to the Trujillo airport that costs about US$80 or you can take an eight-hour bus ride to Trujillo which costs between US$7-27.

Get around
A short taxi ride costs S/2.50, or jump on the kombi as it goes around town and off to Trujillo. Kombis and buses to Trujillo costs S/1.50, colectivo taxis cost S/2, and taxis cost between S/8 and 13.

See

 * "El Muelle", or the pier, is a landmark of Huanchaco. This steel pier was constructed in 1891, it is 108 m long. It was purchased by Victor Larco in 1902. Due to an economic boom in Huanchaco in 1914, the pier finally became property of the state in 1923.
 * The second oldest church in Peru (1535-1540) overlooks the pier & bay.
 * Every day fishermen use their "Caballitos de totora", reedboats shown in ceramics that date from 500 BCE.
 * Colonial Trujillo which was built between four Chimú archaeological sites.
 * Go watch a local pickup game of soccer in Cancha Naranja, or other canchas around the village.
 * Experience a real Latin American market with fish flopping around, then being butchered right in front of you. This market place is known as "mercado".

Do

 * Learn Spanish: the town has several Spanish teachers. Most of them have adverts placed around the town (often on lamp posts, or in local businesses - e.g. the Otra Cosa restaurant (a vegetarian place) has a guy (Sam) who teaches there most days. You should "shop around" as the teachers generally have differing styles, methods and costs. Most charge S/15-30 per hour. Some also offer lessons by Skype for after your time in Huanchaco. Manuel's Language School  offers private and group lessons. S/18 per hour for private lessons. Offers package discounts. whatsapp : + 51948824902
 * Learn to surf, or just watch others. Swimming can be difficult, however, as the waters are very rocky. There are surf shops nearby where one can easily rent a surfboard.
 * Taking a ride in the Caballito de Tortora is another fun activity. Since Huanchaco has plenty of fisherman, there are plenty of Caballitos (traditional Peruvian fishing boats made of reed). When riding on these boats one experience the feeling of riding a little horse made of reeds. Ask someone to take you out, or demonstrate for maybe US$2-3.
 * Photography is something many do while visiting Huanchaco. There are many things to photograph such as the sea, the old wharf, the fisherman in their caballitos, and the old urban zone that is full of history. The road from Huanchaco past Chan Chan continues to Colonial Trujillo. Another essential thing to do would be to see the Moche Pyramids of El Brujo, Huaca del Sol & Huaca de La Luna.
 * Visit Trujillo's colonial centre

You may choose to go with an accredited guide, or French, Dutch and German people who also work as guides, etc. Beware of bricheros, who are professional tourist parasites. Do not lend people money - you're unlikely to get it back.

Volunteer
Many local volunteer opportunities are available. Street Kids in Peru (in trujillo) helps the homeless to finish their primary & secondary education. The Otra Cosa Network do projects from English teaching to helping at an orphanage. Or if you are willing to stay for six months to one year, LaCasaCorazon is a laid-back, long term, relationship building community whose two five-year plan projects include building an alternative school. Created in 2003, SKIP (Supporting Kids in Peru) is a British non-profit organisation helping economically-disadvantaged children and their families to realise their right to an education, in El Porvenir, Trujillo. Huanchaco Al Rescate is a street dog rescue shelter always looking for volunteers.

Buy
The artisans/vendors sitting by and around the pier sell many trinkets that are native to Peru. One can usually buy a keychain for the price of about 30 cents. The workers in these artisan stands are bargainers. They are usually willing to negotiate lower prices, so practice your bargaining skills! These locals of Huanchaco primarily shop for food at the local Mercado. It's a marketplace full of different stands, each vendor offers a little something different to sell and have their own prices. To buy clothing, one would most likely travel to Trujillo. There are not many clothing stores in Huanchaco. The little shops are mostly targeted for tourists. Also cool to buy are the fair trade postcards of Fairmail. These photo cards are made by local underprivileged teenagers who get half of the earnings to finance their education. Check for selling points. If you want to mail postcards without going all the way into Trujillo, there is a tiny Serpost post office on the north side of the dirt alleyway called Manco Capac a half block from the beach, between Union and Atahualpa.

Eat
There is much delicious food to taste in Huanchaco and other parts of northern Peru. The dishes are mainly fish or seafood and are more expensive than Trujillo, from where it is supplied. A tourist will most likely find himself enjoying the local culture while becoming quite familiar with restaurants in front of the ocean and in the ancient zone. Like most Latin cultures, the Peruvians find eating to be an important part of the day. The best time to go to eat would be around 13:00 for "almuerzo", the dinner/lunch.

Drink
There are plenty of little bars along the main road leading into Huanchaco.
 * El Boqueron, serves cervezas among other drinks.
 * El Malecon, another bar found on the main road leading into Huanchaco.
 * Club Colonial, also a restaurant, has one of the best terrasses in Huanchaco, in front of the beach on Avenida la Rivera.
 * Sabes Bar Bar, music, pizza, pool table on balcony over-looking the sea, fresh coffee, open every night at 20:00. Sabes? (large green neon question mark outside) is on the main strip of Huanchaco. Owned by a friendly Peruvian - English couple. Popular spot for tourists.

Sleep
The hotel prices are generally much more economical than a similar room in a similar hotel in nearby Trujillo. This makes Huanchaco a good place to stay, particularly if you plan to stay a few days to explore the zone.

 * Huankarute, right in front of the beach. Single, double and triple rooms with inside or ocean view are available, all of them grant you access to the swimming pool, game room and Wi-Fi connection. American breakfast is included and some guest rooms have Jacuzzi tubs. Take advantage of special prices during low seasons and discounts on more than two-days stays. 233 La Ribera Ave.
 * Naylamp, at the north end of the beach. Camping, dorm, singles, doubles, triples with bathrooms. Double bed with private bathroom for S/30 (bargaining possible) low season. Really nice garden, hammocks, two dogs, two tortoises, internet (S/2 per hour), kitchen use, friendly staff, restaurant, clean. Right on the beach.
 * Hostal Bracamonte, A couple of blocks back from the shore. Private rooms from US$14.50/person. There is a swimming pool, Game room with ping pong table and football table. There is a play area for infants and toddlers, with swings, slide and jungle gym. An outdoor barbecue, gives the people staying in the hotel a time to get together, eat and talk. Secure hotel parking is available. A van is available for tours and transport to the airport or bus station. A great restaurant and bar inside.This 3-star hotel is run by the Bracamonte family; they make you feel right at home.
 * Hostal Los 3 Delfines, Las Cucardas 129–133. Single US$7.50, double with bath US$12, triple US$18, quad US$21, extra bed US$4.50. This hostel is known for 24-hour hot water. It is two blocks up from Los Pinos from the beach, take a left, continue 1½ blocks. +51 44-46-1599.
 * My Friend Hospedaje Los Pinos 553. This is a hotel-restaurant hostel that has low-priced breakfast.
 * Swissostal, the owners speak some English, which is quite rare. Located a block or two from the beach, on av Ricardo Palma. They have the place always locked up, so you have to ring the door bell for them to open it up when you come back to the hotel. You have to keep your key at the front desk. They are quite awkward in general. You could probably get a double/matrimonial for S/50 a night, it's only worth it if you really want a good shower and someone who speaks English. Otherwise, you can find places with better internet for cheaper.
 * Las Brisas, a 3-or 4-story building a 1/2 block back from the beach on Ricardo Palma. Internet is decent - Wi-Fi. Hot water sometimes. The staff doesn't seem to speak English at all, but they're nice enough about dealing with non-Spanish speakers. You can pay with Visa. You can get a double or matrimonial room with private bath for S/50 a night in the peak season.
 * Hostal McCallum, Los Ficus 305. Run by Patricia and Manuel McCallum, this is a great option for those looking for a balance between peace and quiet and a social atmosphere. 4 blocks from the beach. Rooms S/15-40 a night for a private room with hot water and Wi-Fi, depending on when and how long you stay.
 * Wachaque Surf Hostal, Calle Los Helechos 640. New hostal with all new rooms, beds, facilities etc. Short walk to the beach and restaurants along Los Pinos and the waterfront. Roof top terrace and communal kitchen available on the top floor. Wifi and breakfast included. The helpful staff can arrange surfboards, tours and transport back to Trujillo. Dorms from S/25, doubles from S/40. +51 987058118 Email wachaque_surf.peru@hotmail.com.
 * Hostal McCallum, Los Ficus 305. Run by Patricia and Manuel McCallum, this is a great option for those looking for a balance between peace and quiet and a social atmosphere. 4 blocks from the beach. Rooms S/15-40 a night for a private room with hot water and Wi-Fi, depending on when and how long you stay.
 * Wachaque Surf Hostal, Calle Los Helechos 640. New hostal with all new rooms, beds, facilities etc. Short walk to the beach and restaurants along Los Pinos and the waterfront. Roof top terrace and communal kitchen available on the top floor. Wifi and breakfast included. The helpful staff can arrange surfboards, tours and transport back to Trujillo. Dorms from S/25, doubles from S/40. +51 987058118 Email wachaque_surf.peru@hotmail.com.

Go next
Taxis run at all times of the day. Usually one will take a taxi out of the Huanchaco when returning home because luggage takes up too much room in a combi. A taxi driver will usually charge S/8-13 to take you to the bus station in Trujillo, depending on the time of the day. The airport is closer so it may cost S/6 or 7.

From Trujillo you can travel to Lima, then to whatever destination she or he wishes.

The bus ride to Lima is US$7-27, the flight costs about US$80.

title: Huanchaco


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Huanghe Hukou Pubu National Park

Huanghe Hukou Pubu National Park (黄河壶口瀑布, Huánghé Húkǒu Pùbù) is on the Yellow River between Shanxi and Shaanxi provinces.

In "Huanghe Hukou Pubu", "Huanghe" translates as "Yellow River" and "Pubu" as "Waterfall".

Get in
The easiest way is to join a tour group in Xi'an, Shaanxi province, however, that would limit your time at the waterfall, as the group will be rushed to also travel to tombs, jade showrooms and other sights in the area.

To travel without the constraints of a tour party, you will want to get to either the city of Yichuan on the Shaanxi side or Linfen on the Shanxi side.

This is not the most clear-cut travel plan, however, the site is still relatively remote - especially for Chinese tourists. Just make sure you're constantly telling your drivers and ticket people that you're going to Hu Kou Pu Bu, and they will go out of their way to make sure you get on the right track.

Xi'an to Yichuan route
Xi’an East Bus Station (Xi’an ChengDong Keyun Zhan - 西安城东客运站) has passenger buses to Yichuan for ¥30-40. From Xi'an to Yichuan is about a 5- to 6-hour ride.

In Yichuan, you will arrive at the only bus station in town. Buy a ticket going eastward to Hu Kou Pu Bu. If they tell you there is no bus, then you can buy a ticket to Jixian, Shanxi, and then get off the bus halfway. You will surely know when you arrive because you will see the waterfall below as you wind downward into the canyon. Get off the bus just on the other side of the Yellow river bridge. From there, you can jump on a motorcycle for about ¥5 to the guesthouse just beside the waterfall.

Linfen route
Linfen is officially the dirtiest city in China, as it is a major coal producer and there have been very few measures to contain pollution there. However, just stopping through on your way to Hu Kou waterfall is worth checking the little town out. After you've had your fill of coal dust and smoke, find the Yaomiao bus station (yaomiao qiche zhan - 临汾尧庙汽车站). They have buses to Jixian (吉县) town for about ¥33. Jixian is a small county in the hills beside the Yellow river. It is a 4- to 5-hour ride from Linfen as the going is slow and the roads are winding.

Once in Jixian, you can easily flag down a driver or a bus going to the waterfall. If you get a private car, you can expect to pay about ¥100 for him to take you straight to the guest houses beside the waterfall. If you take a bus, they will drop you off a good 2 km south of the waterfall (the bridge). From there you can catch a motorcycle for ¥5.

Fees and permits
As yet there is no entrance fee to the waterfall area. There is a checkpoint, but if you enter on a motorcycle or in a private taxi, you will be waved right in.

Get around
Getting around the waterfall is really convenient. You can walk from the guesthouses to the river in about 5 minutes. The riverbed is of massive sandstone shelves, so you can wander around up and down the river freely. There is not much of a fence between you and the river gorge, so approach at your own risk.

See
The waterfall steals the show. However, as you're riding in by bus or car, the high desert hills and homes burrowed into the mountains are quite a site as opposed to the green and wet southern Chinese countryside. Just northwest Yan'an is the famed terminus of the Long March and the whole area whistles with that dry revolutionary spirit. Again, the waterfall is extremely spectacular and powerful.

Do
Spending a night or two at the waterfall will give you enough time to realize the wonder of the river. Hanging out at the guest house, eating and drinking at their small cafe, walking up and down the riverbed and chatting with the local drivers and guides are all relaxing and an excellent window into the life of these who live beside China's greatest waterfall.

Beside the waterfall, you will be approached by numerous guys with cameras who will ask to take your photo in front of the waterfall. Take as many as you want, then they will develop them on "Hu Kou Pu Bu" photo paper and sell them to you for ¥15-20 a piece.

There are also many merchants with donkeys walking around with souveniers and trinkets for sale.

Make sure you visit the waterfall at both dusk and dawn, as the crowds are almost nonexistent and the sound of the water is most thrilling.

Lodging
Most likely your driver will set you up at the guesthouse next to the waterfall. This guesthouse is located within earshot of the falls, atop a small hill on the east bank. They are basically furnished but cozy. The office also serves as restaurant and convenience shop. The women running the place are very helpful and friendly, but they don’t speak English. You can expect to pay ¥70–90 for a room with two beds.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Huanghe Hukou Pubu National Park


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Huanglongsi National Park

Huanglong (黄龙) is a mountain with natural mineral pools and lakes forming on it. It is in the northern part of Sichuan province near Jiuzhaigou in China.

Understand
Huanglongsi National Park is a component of Huanglongsi-Jiuzhaigou National Park.

Landscape
Huanglong is a mountain that is relatively easy to climb, and the mountain is covered with trees and plants and also many mineral pools and small water falls.

Flora and fauna
There is many types of plants and trees on the mountain, some are rare and may be endangered so take time to enjoy and see it! Animal life is of course existent but the chance of seeing one going up the mountain is very slim (except you might see a few squirrels).

Climate
The weather at the bottom of the mountain is similar to the surrounding areas, although the weather on the mountain can be cool in the summer and cold in the winter. Bring a sweater.

Get in
Buses leave regularly from Chengdu so that will be your best bet.

A bus leaves Jiuzhaigou Bus Station at 07:00 (takes 3-4 hours, ¥40) The same bus returns to Jiuzhaigou at 15:00, and is the only public way to go out.

You can hire a taxi for the Jiuzhaigou-Huanglong roundtrip or the Jiuzhaigou-Huanglong-JZH airport trip for ¥400. The most efficient way to visit Huang Long is to do it on the last day of your Jiuzhaigou visit and return to the airport directly. If you do this by private car, with a 07:30 departure from Jiuzhaigou you will be able to enjoy the park completely and get to the airport by 17:30.

Fees and permits
The price does not include a ticket for the cable car, which must be bought separately and costs ¥80 for a one way trip either up or down; most people use it to go up, but if you then decide to go down on the cable car it will cost a further ¥40.
 * ¥200 per person (1 Apr-15 Nov),
 * ¥60 per person (16 Nov- 31March).

Discounted tickets at ¥100 are available for students with ID and seniors over 60 years of age with proof of age (as of July 2013).

Get around
There is a moderately steep (average 10% incline) 4.2-km wooden boardwalk up the valley from the entrance to the colourful limestone pools and temple at the apex of the path. Some alternative trails are available for the return walk down the valley. This round trip generally takes around 4 hours, but schedule at least 6 if you want to do it really comfortably.

During the peak season (Apr-Nov) a cable car operates which takes visitors from near the entrance up to a high elevation equal to the highest points of the path. This then leaves a flat walk along the side of valley for several kilometres where it joins the main walking trails at the apex of limestone pools and temple. One can then walk down the boardwalk instead of taking the cable car back, and enjoy the forest, limestone formation and waterfall views on the way back to the entrance

See
The mineral pools and lakes are very fascinating as they are very colorful and pretty. Some small waterfalls that are almost horizontal. There is also a temple on the top of the mountain so check that out.

Do
Take pictures! The sceneries are beautiful and photographers will enjoy it. There is a temple on the top of the mountain so you can go and check that out. Most of the time just take time climb the mountain and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Buy
There is not much to buy except food and water.

Eat
There is small shops along the mountain paths and on top of the mountain. The food and the water are expensive so be sure to bring some of your own.

Drink
Bring your own drink as the price of water and beverages increase dramatically as you ascend.

Sleep
Huanglong is intended to be climbed up and down in a single day so there is no lodging on the mountain.

Camping
There is no camping.

Stay safe
Use common sense, if something seems dangerous, don't do it. Watch your step as you climb and remember that: If you climb don't look at the sceneries, if you look at the sceneries don't climb!

Also note the high altitude. The park entrance is about above sea level and the Five Colored Pool is nearly  above sea level. Since the air is thinner, pace yourself as you make the hike up.

title: Huanglongsi National Park


text:
Huangshan

Huangshan (黄山; Huángshān; lit.: Yellow Mountain) is in Anhui Province in China, toward the southern end near the border with Zhejiang. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There is also a Huangshan city to the south and a Huangshan district to the north.

Understand
Huangshan is a granite massif consisting of 36 peaks, rising above 1,800 m. Famous throughout Chinese artistic history, Huangshan represents the typical mountain in Chinese paintings, and has also served as the inspiration for the design of many traditional Chinese gardens. Frequently shrouded in mist, the many peaks appear to float on clouds and have very fanciful names such as 18 Arhats Worshipping the South Sea, Lotus Flower Peak, Celestial Capital, and Paint Brush.

Landscape
Jagged granite peaks clothed in uniquely shaped pine trees create a spectacular landscape of great interest to artists and photographers. The development of walking tracks and cable cars makes this landscape accessible to most active travelers.

Flora and fauna
Over 1,450 kinds of plant are found within the park. The most spectacular tree is the unique Pinus huangshanensis which grows precariously clinging to rock faces. Many of the trees have names such as the Welcoming Guest and the Seeing-off Guest Pines. Carpinus, Cornus, Enkianthus, Fraxinus, Rhododendron and Weigelia are some of the species of flowering tree to be seen. 470 species of animals have been recorded. The most frequently seen ground animals are squirrels, macaques, and small skinks.

Climate
Huangshan can be cold at night (it's 1,800 m above sea level). The upper parts of the mountain freeze periodically in winter, which can make some paths slippery with ice, especially in the morning. The more dangerous paths are generally closed in these conditions, and vendors on the mountain sell cheap snow spikes that attach to your shoes.

For over 200 days per year, the top of the mountain is in clouds and all that spectacular scenery is hidden. If there is only partial cloud cover, however, the mountain is utterly spectacular. If you have the flexibility, plan to stay for several days, or adjust the dates of your visit according to the weather forecast.

The valleys around the mountain tend to collect clouds overnight, especially after rain or snow, leading to a "cloud sea", one of the mountain's famous scenic highlights.

By bus
Frequent direct buses run from Shanghai and Hangzhou. The buses from Hangzhou run either to Huangshan City (nearly two hours away) or direct to Tangkou at the mountain's tourist distribution center. The buses to Tangkou are less regular, but easy to catch if you phone up the bus station and get a timetable. Buses back from Tangkou leave mid-afternoon, but are closely spaced such that the second bus is usually empty. In these circumstances, the first bus may "break down" in Tunxi until the second bus catches up.

Fees and permits
An entry fee of ¥230 applies (off-season entry fee is ¥120, e.g. early December), and a 50% discount is available for students with IDs and seniors. If you take the tram to the top, it costs ¥80 each way, and you'll need ¥19 each way for the shuttle bus to reach the lifts or trailheads on the south side of the mountain. Prices for food are about twice as high on the top as they are at the bottom.

Get around
Huangshan City (Tunxi) is not too close to the mountain itself. A taxi from the airport to Tangkou is ¥100-200 depending on your negotiating skills.

Upon arrival at the train station, airport, or long-distance bus station, a convenient method of transportation is by bus to the at Tangkou. The bus ride to Tangkou takes about an hour, and offers great views of rural Anhui Province. There lots of small buses outside Huangshan station, which should cost ¥15-20 for a one-way ticket and leave frequently. From Huangshan North station, walk to the bus terminal to your right when entering the station, where larger, less-frequent tourist buses take you to the mountain. As of 2018 these can fill up hours in advance, the ticket desk may have lineups of 20-30 minutes, and nearly all booking is actually done through a clunky, Chinese-only WeChat plugin.

From the town of Tangkou (汤口镇, Tangkouzhen), at the foot of the mountain, a shuttle service operates every 20 minutes to the Hot Springs Area; and. Tangkou is quite walkable but taxis are available to scenic spots around the foot of the mountain. You cannot go direct to the mountain entrance by taxi: only the National Express buses are allowed into the scenic area. There are trails up the mountain that start near each of the two southern cable cars, but leaving from different bus stops.

A third cableway, the, ascends the north side of the mountain from Huangshan District. This is readily accessible from Huangshan North station, but more difficult to reach from Tangkou, Tunxi and the other stations

Trail closures

 * Lotus peak and Celestial Capital peak are each typically open for five years at a time while the other closes. In 2019, Celestial Capital Peak reopened.
 * Less-popular and more-dangerous trails, including Celestial Capital Peak and the trails up from the north and northwest, are normally closed in winter.

See

Do

Hiking. There are four trails up the mountain: two from the south, one from the north, and one from the northwest. From the south, the more scenic "western steps" start from, past the Yuping cablecar, while the start just below the Yungu cablecar. In the north, a trail starts from the base of the Taiping cableway, at the Songgu Forest (松谷禅林) entrance. The far more obscure but very scenic route from the via the Fairy Bridge starts at the end of a small local road. The northwest entrance has no bus service and no taxis, is not near any village, and its parking lot is usually completely empty, so ascending via this route requires a taxi and descending requires planning your transportation in advance. It is also sometimes closed in winter.

Once on the top of the mountain it is possible to do a few walks. Highly recommend is the walk through the West Sea, for its stunning scenery. This area is also accessible by a funicular railway from the top (¥100). The connection between the Fairy Bridge and West Sea is closed (2018).

Note that the trails on the mountain are generally industrial-scale stone or concrete walkways, wide and flat, with railings, often lighting, and a crew of workers to clear off snow, garbage, and leaves. This is not a trek through the wilderness.

One of the famous attractions at Huangshan is its hot springs, located above Tangkou.

Buy
An English-language map is available in Tangkou. Many local couples buy padlocks and inscribe their names on them, then lock them to various places on top of the mountain. Others buy medals commemorating their successful summit of the peak.

In Tunxi, the most cited tourist destination is Laojie (old street with lots of souvenir shopping). This street is over-commercialized and has little to offer over the more authentic ancient towns nearby (Hongcun, Xidi, both on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and others). But it is near the airport and train station, and can be entertaining if you need to kill time before leaving town. The Laojie is a great place for buying high quality red, black and green tea at reasonable prices. Also worth a try is the tea tofu.

Eat
Food options are limited on the mountain. There are (expensive) restaurants in all the hotels but it is hard for a solo traveller to find cheap food. There are several small grocery stores selling snacks & drinks. Stinky tofu of a particularly stinky variety seems to be popular as well. On top of the mountain in peak season, water was ¥6-10, beer ¥10, meat sticks 3 for ¥10, instant noodles ¥10, cucumbers 2 for ¥6.

Drink
Take plenty of water as the price rises steeply on the mountain (up to ¥10 per 600 ml bottle). Local beer, such as Huangshan Beer (黄山啤酒), costs ¥10-20.

Sleep
On Huangshan, most tourists choose to stay overnight at one of several hotels in the Beihai region of the mountain to watch the sunset and sunrise. All hotels on the mountain are extremely expensive (a bed in a shared dorm is likely to cost more than ¥300/night), and note that several close in winter. In Tangkou there are a lot of cheap hotels available for around ¥80. There are also some options in Tunxi.

On the Mountain
Note that there is a well-staffed police station on the mountain, and if you try to check into a hotel there without all your identity documents perfectly in order, you should expect to spend several hours enjoying that police station's hospitality while you explain yourself.

Stay safe
Watch out for ice in winter, and do not make eye contact with the monkeys.

title: Huangshan


text:
Huangzhong

Huangzhong (湟中; Huángzhōng; Tibetan: Tsongkha or Lushaer) is a town near Xining, Qinghai Province.

Understand
Huangzhong is about 28km southwest of Xining, and although small, it is very important to Tibetans. This is the birthplace of Tsongkhapa (Je Rinpoche), the founder of the Dalai Lama's Gelukpa (Yellow Hat) order, and it is the site of Ta'er Si Monastery, one of the six greatest Gelukpa monasteries. There are many Han and Hui in the town itself but the area around the monastery is full of tourists mingling among the throngs of Tibetan pilgrims who flock to the site from across the Amdo (Eastern Tibet) region.

Get in
Bus leaves from Xining Gymnasium (体育馆; Tǐyùguǎn) every half hour throughout the day til evening. The bus takes about one hour to travel to Huangzhong.

Eat
To the left and downhill from the entrance to Ta'ersi there is a small area of tourist shops and a scattering a traditional Tibetan restaurants.

Drink
Here, you can buy yark acidophilus milk, only ¥2 per bottle, the taste is very good.

Go next
The bus station is about 2-3km down the road from the monastery towards Xining. Bus 909 goes to Xining directly. During the day many taxis wait near the entrance to Ta'er Monastery and will leave to Xining only when full. In the evening, taxis wait down the street across from Huangzhong County Hospital. They should not charge much more than ¥50-60 for the trip, so expect to pay about ¥15 per person.

title: Huangzhong


text:
Huaraz

Huaraz is a large town in the Cordillera Blanca region of Peru's Central Sierra.

Understand
Huaraz stands tall at 3100m; travellers from Lima might need a day or two to acclimatize to the change in atmosphere. See Altitude sickness for advice and more information.

July is a good time to visit the region; the temperature is perfect for walking and the sky is free from clouds and rain. It's also a good time as the July period has many of Peru's annual event celebration dates. The town puts on a tremendous night of entertainment each year for most of the days, featuring live music and more. Well worth a look if you are in the region.

A town of 100,000, it blends a mix of modern and native culture. The town has many markets and shops catering to tourist needs and local needs. The food markets are especially interesting and are a great starting point for getting supplies for expeditions. Be sure to shop about before purchasing/hiring (especially for mountaineering gear) as often a better price can be found elsewhere with a bit of bargaining.

The town has many places offering cheap internet access; although a bit slow, the connection is usually reliable. The town has a big post office and a few banks. Huaraz also has a mix of old and new restaurants offering a variety of dishes. Cuy (guinea pig) is a regional dish; perhaps something to say one has tried but not something to make a diet of! There are a few night clubs and many bars open late. Common sense would advise people not to travel alone at night, but one feels safe in the city where the locals were very willing to help out where possible. Like many places in Peru, it's not wise to take much money with you at any one time if you can possibly avoid it.

By bus
Huaraz is approximately 8 hours coach drive from Lima; it's simple and a reasonably cheap and reliable service. Movil Tours, Ormeño, Cruz del Sur and CIAL are most frequently recommended bus companies.

When you arrive you will find out that ´captadores´ are trying to bring you to lowly recommendated hostels and places. They spread bad words about the hostel you are willing to go to. Do not believe any of these popular phrases like: that hostel is always full, that hostel is far away. Especially at Cruz del Sur it is tough to leave. These 'captadores' get commission for each night you stay at the place that they recommend.

There are several daily buses to and from Chimbote & Trujillo. Movil Tours & Transportes Linea are the best (US$14, 7 hours to Trujillo), followed by Chinchaysuyo & Comite 14, all of which only travel by night, & continue to Trujillo. All night buses travel on the tar sealed road from Huaraz to Pativilca (Caral is near there) to the Panamerican Highway, midway between Trujillo & Lima.

Transportes Linea, America Express & others run from Trujillo from 06:00 or earlier to catch the 8-8.30AM bus of Turismo Huaraz & Yungay Express from Huaraz via Caraz & the spectacular Cañon del Pato. It's a rough 8-hour bus ride, the buses are basic for the unsealed road (Caraz to Chimbote) and may be overcrowded between Caraz & Huaraz. The views are stunning. Price is around S/25 (soles). If you have your own vehicle, obtain permission (and confirmation of entrance times if maintenance is in progress) from Proyecto Chavimochic in Trujillo (Telefax +51 44 272286) or Viru to leave the Panam (485 km north of Lima) via the well kept Brasileiros maintenance road alongside the canal to the north bank of the Santa River to Cañon del Pato. It is possible to cover Trujillo to Caraz in 5 hours (and photo stops) on this straighter, smoother road. Almost 40 tunnels are large enough for all but the largest tourist buses.

There are also day buses between Huaraz & Chimbote via the Callan Pass, Pariacoto & Casma (for Sechin). Longer, rougher & not quite as visually stunning.

Every 20 minutes or so combis leave Huaraz for Caraz visiting Carhuaz and Yungay on the way.

Get around
In Huaraz, taxis are cheap and fast for getting about the town.

Be wary of dubious taxi drivers and cabs. Peru does have a problem with taxis in some places, and tourists have been known to be mugged or assaulted in them. Women should be careful not to travel alone, especially in taxis and especially at night. Huaraz is, however, a comparatively safe city — for men and women — and is easily maneuvered by the seasoned traveller, particularly those who can speak Spanish. However, just as in any part of Peru, staying aware of your surroundings and avoiding potentially dodgy situations is advised.

Also if you need to rent a car to go out of the city, are a variety of companies that make this service, the most prominent being Andes Renta Car Huaraz. www.archuaraz.com You can contact trough email alquilercamionetas@gmail.com or call +51 43422423 or 943626780 in order to get information about the cars, trucks, prices, etc. Andean Rent a Car offers a good service with a drivers that know the routes.

See

 * Archeological Sites. Within walking distance of Huaraz is the Wari ruin of Wilcawain. Monumento Nacional Wilcahuaín is a small Wari tuin that dates bakes to 600 to 900 AD. This temple complex is virtually undamaged, providing a unique opportunity to see a complete pre-Columbian building in Peru. It is an imitation of the temple at Chavín, in the Tiahuanaco style. Wilcahuaín means 'grandson's house' in Quechua. The ruin was originally filled with mummies who were kept dry by using a sophisticated ventilation system. It is not only interesting in itself but can be visited on a great acclimatization hike that leaves right from town. It is easiest to take a combi there (uphill) and walk back via an old Incan trail (approximately 2 hours).

Huaraz is also the departure point for tours to see Chavín de Huántar, the center of a cultural and artistic revolution in Peru that took place between 600 and 300 BCE. Museums in Huaraz contain many fine examples of Chavin sculpture and older Cupinisque pottery.

 * The Museo Regional de Ancash, The Museo Regional de Ancash houses the largest collection of ancient stone sculptures in South America. It gives information about all the cultures that have inhabited the Cordillera Blanca region. It is small but interesting, it has a few mummies, some trepanned skulls (an ancient form of surgery involving cutting into the skull) and a garden of stone monoliths from the Recuay culture (400 BC to AD 600) and the Wari culture (AD 600 to 1000). A pottery collection, textiles, and metal works cover the Wari, Chimú, and Inca cultures.
 * The Museo Regional de Ancash, The Museo Regional de Ancash houses the largest collection of ancient stone sculptures in South America. It gives information about all the cultures that have inhabited the Cordillera Blanca region. It is small but interesting, it has a few mummies, some trepanned skulls (an ancient form of surgery involving cutting into the skull) and a garden of stone monoliths from the Recuay culture (400 BC to AD 600) and the Wari culture (AD 600 to 1000). A pottery collection, textiles, and metal works cover the Wari, Chimú, and Inca cultures.

Do
Find the practical map guide in most of the bars or laundries.

 * Trekking - The region is a trekkers paradise; it features breath taking views and an escape from the hive of people seen in other famed trekking locations like the Inca trail. Although one could do it on ones own, it's advisable to get a guide and run it through a specialist company. There are many companies offering these services. The House of Guides (Casa de Guías) offers professional free information, and maps for a price. They have a check in/check out book which it's advisable to sign, especially if travelling without a guide.
 * Explore Huascarán National Park: Visit nearby Laguna Churup, Laguna 69, Laguna Parón or complete the challenging, multi-day Santa Cruz Trek.
 * A homestay in Vicos or Humacchuco, When you are interested in some alternative form of spending your trip in the region of Huaraz it is a very good idea to do a homestay in Vicos or Humacchuco. Vicos (1 hour from Huaraz) is an authentic rural community, which gives visitors the opportunity to learn about its Andean culture, livingin harmony with its environment. Vicos has seven guest houses next to the houses of host families who will assist you during all the activities. Possible activities are; helping the family with theirdaily activities like baking bread, harvesting honey, fishing or grazing with the animals, helping the family on their farming lands, visiting local craftsman, hiking through the fields while visiting the ruins of the Huari and Recuay while learning about medicinal plants, or hiking for a full day to high-altitude lakes and glaciers and enjoying the views with the Cordillera Blanca at the background. Humacchuco is another community which is a little bit farther away (2 hours from Huaraz). Humacchuco has six guest houses next to the houses of host families like in Vicos. Also here it is possible to help the families with their daily activities and learn about their culture. Besides this Humacchuco also offers wonderful hikings to Lake Llanganuco, Lake 69, Maria Joséfa and a hike to the valley of Huaytapallana. To organize a homestay in Humacchuco you can either contact the Mountain Institute in Huaraz or call one of the families. You will find a phone number on the website. Note that only the second one is up to date for now, but they plan to update the website soon. In case you try to contact them via e-mail, it might take some time until they answer as there isn't any internet in the village. It would be good if you spoke some Spanish, and if not, organize a translator as the families don't speak English. You get to see the main sights in the Huascarán National Park and share the daily life of rural Andean families.
 * Visit parks and squares, When the weather is good visit one of the nice squares (Plaza de Armas, Plaza de Belen) or parks (Park at Iglesia San Francisco). Just sit down, enjoy the nice weather with a good book or just to watch people.
 * Laguna Antacocha, same trip as laguna Wilcacocha, but a bit further (30 min, about S/2.5, get down just before to enter Recuay).
 * Go to the foot of Huascaran, the biggest mountain in Peru, 6768 m. Take a combi to Mancos (S/5), then to Musho (S/2.5) where the path begins. But there are several ways and no indication, so don't go if you haven't good information or a guide. About 4 hr to go to the Refugio, and 2 hr more to the first snow.
 * Go to the Therms of Monterrey, directly in combi from Fitzcarrald street (S/1). Or walk from Wilkawain's ruins (by combi, S/1.30, 20 min), by the football place, go up the steps then follow straight, 1½ hr. You have a nice view on Huascaran. The entrance to the therms is S/3.50, for the public swimming pool or private bathtub. Warm !
 * A good place to see is Hatun Machay or stone forest, very impressive. Some climbers come there and sleep in the Refugio (30 S/night) or in their tents (20 S/night). You can rent material in Huaraz. Bring your food and water. Get a combi to Catac (3,5 S) then a taxi collectivo to kilometer 131 (5 S) direction Conococha, where the path begins. Walk up 2h, easy. At the end you have to choose, take left. You have to pay 5 S the entrance for one single day. Get down 1h30, you can try hitch hiking to come back.
 * Go to the Therms of Monterrey, directly in combi from Fitzcarrald street (S/1). Or walk from Wilkawain's ruins (by combi, S/1.30, 20 min), by the football place, go up the steps then follow straight, 1½ hr. You have a nice view on Huascaran. The entrance to the therms is S/3.50, for the public swimming pool or private bathtub. Warm !
 * A good place to see is Hatun Machay or stone forest, very impressive. Some climbers come there and sleep in the Refugio (30 S/night) or in their tents (20 S/night). You can rent material in Huaraz. Bring your food and water. Get a combi to Catac (3,5 S) then a taxi collectivo to kilometer 131 (5 S) direction Conococha, where the path begins. Walk up 2h, easy. At the end you have to choose, take left. You have to pay 5 S the entrance for one single day. Get down 1h30, you can try hitch hiking to come back.

Buy
At the Plaza de Armas there is an Artesania Market with a broad offer of nice souvenirs, bags, jewelry and clothing. Definitely worth a visit. Furthermore, there are some nice shops on the Av. Luzuriaga as well. The big market with food and a lot of small shops selling everything you can think of is situated at a street which goes parallel to the Av. Luzuriaga.

Eat

 * Mercado central. On the second floor you can indulge in a true Peruvian set meal of soup, rice and chicken and limonade. All for S/2.50. The first floor is good for stocking up for your trek. Second stair, try the Comedor vegetariano.
 * Try a delicious and cheap (S/5) Ceviche in the restaurant Delfin, Gabino Uribe street near from the main plaza.
 * A S/10 buffet to have lunch in the nice Cafe 13 Buhos, near from the Casa de guias.
 * Tasty ice cream in Samuel's (S/1.5 the cornet), Luzurinaga street.
 * Chifas, there are several in town. Their dishes are cheap and feed two. And in contrast to Peruvian cuisine they tend to sneak in some veggies. Chifa is a blend of Chinese and Peruvian fare, especially popular in Lima but widely available throughout the country for cheap. Buyer beware. Just make sure it's hot!!
 * La Brasa Roja, Luzuriaga 919. Great place for meat lovers, highly recommended (and frequented) by locals. Slightly upscale. The roasted chicken (S/9.50) and the burgers (S/10) are best value for money. Large portions.
 * Fuente de Salud. Very cheap, very tasty vegetarian food. Highly recommended for vegetarians and those who are feeling the effects of traveller's diarrhea.
 * Siam de los Andes. A traditional Thai restaurant in the middle of small-town Peru, serves up delicious curry and stir fry dishes. S/15-50 per meal.
 * Creperie Patrick, Av. Luzurriaga 422. A well-known restaurant that serves up many different styles of sweet or savory crêpes, Creperie Patrick is also known to be relatively expensive: S/25-50 per meal.
 * Mi Chef Kristof, Parque del Periodista (through the last passage on the right side of the first block of Av. Luzuriaga going north from the Plaza de Armas). Great restaurant where Chef Kristof will prepare amazing meals for you. The Peppersteak and the homemade pastas are a little bit more expensive than elsewhere in town but are a real treat.
 * Jirón José Olaya, Jirón José Olaya is the only street that remained intact through Huaraz' various earthquakes. It gives a good indication of what the town once looked like. On Sundays there is a street market where the local population sells regional foods. Sit down at one of the little “restaurants” and enjoy your Picante de Cuy.

Drink
There are several bars clustered around José de la Mar and Cajamarca to still your thirst.

 * El Tambo, 2 blocks from Plaza Ginebra. Popular weekend club (slow on Thursday) that plays mostly salsa with short sets of house, reggaeton, and American music. It has a tree and wood theme.
 * Cafe Andino, 2 blocks from the Plaza de Armas, closed Mondays and January/February. Delicious espresso and other coffee beverages. Can buy beans too. Excellent selection of books to borrow (with deposit), and good magazine selection to peruse while there. Loud, familiar music (Marley, Grateful Dead). Friendly, accommodating staff. Great atmosphere. Free WiFi. Expensive, but good and healthy gringo food.
 * California Café, Jr. 28 de Julio, 568. Café with a big book exchange, also doubles as library. The Californian owner organizes ultimate frisbee matches every Friday. Just drop in at around 13:30 (Dry Season, April–November) or 10:00 (Rainy Season, December–March) if you're interested.  One of the house specialties is their mixed fruit smoothie, called Surtido.  This cafe also serves roasts its own coffees and is an ideal spot to hang for a few hours when first getting into town.  Try their sandwiches, made to order with lots of variety. Also has free WiFi.

Sleep

 * El Tambo, Av. Confraternidad Oeste #122 (well hidden on the opposite the stadium: there's a little street, at the end turn right, go through a private looking gate, turn left: there's a high but small door to your right). Fine hostel close to the bus terminal and four blocks from the center. It offers free internet, laundry service, kitchen use, communal area with cable TV and DVD included in the price. Very very kind owner, happy to provide help in choosing tour operator, etc. Low-season price S/10 pppn.
 * El Tambo, Av. Confraternidad Oeste #122 (well hidden on the opposite the stadium: there's a little street, at the end turn right, go through a private looking gate, turn left: there's a high but small door to your right). Fine hostel close to the bus terminal and four blocks from the center. It offers free internet, laundry service, kitchen use, communal area with cable TV and DVD included in the price. Very very kind owner, happy to provide help in choosing tour operator, etc. Low-season price S/10 pppn.
 * El Tambo, Av. Confraternidad Oeste #122 (well hidden on the opposite the stadium: there's a little street, at the end turn right, go through a private looking gate, turn left: there's a high but small door to your right). Fine hostel close to the bus terminal and four blocks from the center. It offers free internet, laundry service, kitchen use, communal area with cable TV and DVD included in the price. Very very kind owner, happy to provide help in choosing tour operator, etc. Low-season price S/10 pppn.
 * El Tambo, Av. Confraternidad Oeste #122 (well hidden on the opposite the stadium: there's a little street, at the end turn right, go through a private looking gate, turn left: there's a high but small door to your right). Fine hostel close to the bus terminal and four blocks from the center. It offers free internet, laundry service, kitchen use, communal area with cable TV and DVD included in the price. Very very kind owner, happy to provide help in choosing tour operator, etc. Low-season price S/10 pppn.
 * El Tambo, Av. Confraternidad Oeste #122 (well hidden on the opposite the stadium: there's a little street, at the end turn right, go through a private looking gate, turn left: there's a high but small door to your right). Fine hostel close to the bus terminal and four blocks from the center. It offers free internet, laundry service, kitchen use, communal area with cable TV and DVD included in the price. Very very kind owner, happy to provide help in choosing tour operator, etc. Low-season price S/10 pppn.

Stay safe

 * Street dogs. Huaraz has a large and unchecked population of dogs, even by Peruvian standards. Packs of wild animals, some quite large, roam the streets and villages surrounding the city. They pay no attention to humans in the centre, but become more aggressive in the outskirts and certainly in the villages. Actual attacks are uncommon, but it is nevertheless an unpleasant experience to be surrounded by a pack of viciously barking mutts. It is inadvisable to walk around outside of the designated hiking trails (e.g. to the various lagunas), as many of the trails pass private properties (not indicated on any map) which are fiercely guarded by semi-domesticated and stray animals. If you find yourself under attack by one or more dogs:
 * Stay calm and continue walking. Most of the dogs will merely escort you to the limit of their territory and leave you alone.
 * Avoid eye contact. Take off reflective sunglasses as this seems to trigger the animals.
 * Throwing stones, or even just pretending to, usually creates a respectful distance.
 * If a dog starts biting, it will usually be from behind. In such cases, turn around to face the animal and seek an escape, but do not run. Keep your backpack or anything else you are carrying between you and the animals for protection. Calling out for help can be useful, as locals are so used to barking dogs that they rarely pay attention.
 * In the rare case that you are bitten, seek medical attention and get a shot against rabies. This disease is fatal without immediate medical intervention.
 * Eating. Be careful as to what you eat as it is almost certain that you will get food poisoning and/or diarrhea at some point during your travels in Peru.  Being pro-active can limit your exposure:
 * Avoid drinking un-clean water
 * Be picky about what food you eat and ensure that it has been cooked properly. What might appear to be well established restaurants can be just as bad as street traders when it comes to food hygiene.
 * Hot food is the best food. Make sure everything has been cooked thoroughly and be sure to chew your food. It will help aid digestion at altitude.
 * Sunscreen. Since Huaraz is physically and visually far from the Pacific Coast beaches, it may not occur to casual visitors to buy and use sunscreen. For those people who are planning on trekking into the mountains, or doing mountain climbing, sunscreen is a vital resource. The thin air and high altitudes increase the effects of UV penetration.
 * Armed robberies of tourists are fairly common, even more so on Sundays.

Go next
Yungay Express (07:00), Turismo Huaraz & Huandoy (09:00) pass through Caraz 2 hours later & the spectacular Cañon del Pato to Chimbote terminal terrestre, where you can change for Trujillo.
 * Trujillo. At least 2 bus companies (Movil and Linea) provide overnight service to Trujillo. The trip takes about 7 hours. The busses may not be equipped with air-conditioning, so it may be a hot ride. It's a rocky, fast-paced trip through the mountains.
 * Caraz. Minibuses leave frequently and the trip takes about one hour.

title: Huaraz


text:
Huashan National Park

Mount Hua (华山 Huà Shān) is a sacred Taoist mountain in Shaanxi Province, China. It is one of the Five Great Mountains.

Understand
The 2,154-meter-tall mountain, true to its reputation as the "most precipitous mountain under heaven", is a cluster of five peaks with breathtaking cliff faces. It is one of China's top mountain-climbing destinations and is often overrun with tourists. Hua was the location of several influential Taoist monasteries and was known as a center for the practice of traditional Chinese martial arts. It is also one of the five holy Taoist mountains of China.

Hua is popularly known as the "Most Dangerous Hiking Trail in the World". Even though the climb does not require any technical climbing skills, the hike contains a few steep ascents with via ferrata, narrow passes, and paths with no railings. One route, the Changkong Zhandao, takes you along a narrow wooden pathway that was nailed into the side of the mountain, offering single-file hikers a heavy metal chain for a handhold, but no railing to keep hikers from falling. This path was originally built in the 13th century and is now diligently renewed and maintained by the Chinese government, with an eye towards safety as the number of visitors grows.

By train
Thanks to China's modern train network, reaching Huashan can be a fairly quick trip and is served by two different train stations in the town of Huayin. The city you depart from may also have two separate stations, including the nearby city of Xi'an, where most visitors arrive from.

 * , as the name implies, is in the north of the city and serves high-speed trains (G and D trains). Trains from Xi'an depart from Xi'an North Railway Station, take around 33–45 minutes and cost between ¥34.5 and ¥54.5, depending on the type of train.
 * is located in the south of the city and serves the slower 'conventional' trains (K and no-letter trains). They depart from Xi'an Railway Station, taking around 1.5 to 2 hours. Tickets are about half the price of high speed trains, ranging from ¥17.5 to ¥19.5, so are great if you have a very tight budget.

For further information regarding trains in China, see the China Get Around section.

Once you arrive at the train station you have the choice of taking a minibus or a taxi to the base of Huashan. During the off-peak season you may find no minibuses are operating and will have to take a taxi.

By bus
From Xi'an: buses (coaches or minibuses) leave from the EAST side of the train station's southern parking lot. Buses leave regularly during daylight hours. These are mixed in with buses to the Terracotta Warriors, and other destinations. Ride time is about two hours and costs ¥33 for one way or ¥55 for a return. Beware scam buses that try to charge 10 times as much. You'll be dropped off in the village near Mt. Hua. From there take a taxi (see the get around section).

Be aware these are independent private companies, or just two guys with a bus. They don't operate on a schedule, but will leave when full of passengers. So For the quickest departure, find a bus already mostly full of people, since if you choose an empty bus you could be sitting in the parking lot a while.

Fees and permits
The entrance fee for Huashan varies depending on what time of the year you visit. During peak season, from March to November, the fee is ¥180. During the off-peak season, from December to February, the entrance fee is lowered to ¥100. Tickets are valid for two days from the date of purchase.

Get around
The buses from Xian will drop you off in the village. From here, the only option is to take a taxi (typically ¥10 per taxi, regardless of number of passengers) to the East Gate, which is the ticket office. Buy your entrance tickets here, then board buses that depart to the mountain itself. However the East Gate will be closed at night, thus if you are planning to climb overnight, proceed to the West Gate. After the bus from the ticket office deposits you at the mountain proper, you have three options for ascending the first bit. All start, and finish, almost right next one another.

 * 1) Climb the North Peak—main route.  Plan for more than four hours to reach the North Peak. There will be plenty of shops by the side of the path selling food and drinks for you to replenish your energy. Eating hot noodles in the cold will be a very pleasant experience.
 * 2) Take the cable car (¥80 one way, ¥150 for a return) to the North Peak.  The line to enter the cable car often last over two hours, so try to arrive early.  Line-cutting is surprisingly rare, and most of the line is blocked from the sun and with water misting, so sans boredom, it's still fairly comfortable even in summer. The cable car is only available from the East Gate.
 * 3) Climb the North Peak—alternate route below the cable car.  Called "Solider's Way", it's the more difficult, but faster, of the two hiking routes.  This takes an estimated 2 hours, and is nothing but steps. It also contains one section with optional ~80 degree steps, for those who have seen the famous photos online. The steepest steps on the mountain (approaching 90 degrees) are also here, though now chained off in favor of a far more forgiving route.

These three routes meet up again just below the North Peak summit. One can of course, take any of the 3 routes up, and then either of the other two remaining down.

From this meeting area (just below the North Peak summit), there is initially only one route to the other peaks. This passes through the area known as the "Heavenly Steps" (上天梯, literally "ascend heaven ladder", "Sun and Moon Cliff" and "Black Dragon Mountain," the latter called that because it looks like a dragon's wavy back. The route is no more than a meter wide at places. This should take about 2 hours.

At the top of this section is the "Gold Lock Pass." Here the route branches. Paths lead towards the East, South, Center and West Peaks, as well as other points of interest. As most of the elevation gain is done, the final ascent to each of the peaks is not too severe. You likely only have time to climb one (probably the South, the highest) or walk a circuit. In this area there are temples, lodges and other sites. This includes the infamous wooden Changkong Boardwalk.

Do

 * Watch the sun rise from East Peak (Dong Feng) by attempting a night hike. It won't be as crowded as during the daytime, but you will see other hikers ascending as well. Be sure to bring along a flashlight, spare batteries, and warm clothing. Such equipment can be rented from a store along the road leading to the West Gate entrance. Check the weather forecast before climbing because a rainy night will result in dense fog in the early morning which conceals the sunrise. Note that even in summer, Huashan is very cold at night, and the wind at the top is very strong. If you choose to spend the night in the mountains, you will need to prepare a tent, windbreaker, or down garment. If you aren't prepared, there are small shops all the way to the top where tents and warm coats can be rented.
 * At East Peak, prepare yourself mentally as you ascend the famous yun ding, which are narrow steps half the length of your feet, carved into the stone, and stacked up at an angle so sharp that you are virtually climbing a stone ladder. Experience the thrill of clinging onto the iron chains by the side of the path with your arms, while slowly groping for a foothold on the slippery steps.
 * Next morning, walk from East Peak to the other peaks, where the scenery changes from rock outcrops to lush foliage (in spring). The mist will gradually fade away to reveal a breathtaking expanse of valleys if you look over the edge of the cliffs. Indulge in a sense of satisfaction as you survey the arduously long journey you had completed during the night.
 * Rent a safety harness for ¥30 and walk out on the 长空栈道 (Changkong zhandao, "Vast Sky Plank Walk"). Climb a ladder that's nothing more steel rods driven into a crack in the rock, and walk on planks a foot wide along the edge of a cliff dropping thousands of feet, and in places put you trust in footholds carved into the rock.
 * The Vast Sky Plank Walk isn't the only vertiginous challenge, Sparrowhawk Flips Over is a more technical descent and climb, with an out and back descent to a pathway using half-hand and foot holds carved into a sheer rock face. From here you can walk to the Chess Pavilion and admire the view. A safety harness can be rented at the start of the descent for ¥30; the whole descent/walk/climb will take an hour.

One-day route: Climb in the North, descend in the West
A classical route (called 北上西下, Bei Shang Xi Xia) for climbing Mt. Hua in one day takes you across the North, East, South, and West peaks, descending the mountain on the West peak cable car. Depending on your climbing speed, this will take you somewhere between 7 and 10 hours; there are some very steep ascents, so take that into account. Start early but don't worry, as the cable car runs until well after 6PM, and you have some opportunity to take shortcuts along the way. If you do end up running out of time, there is accommodation located near the major peaks.

You start at Yuquanyuan (玉泉院) at the top of Yuquan Road (玉泉路), in front of the temple. Enter the temple and follow the climbing signs to find the ticket office behind the temple. Your ascent now starts on a comfortable cobbled road, growing gradually steeper, until it's mostly stairs. You reach the junction to the North peak after about 3–4 hours. It's only a few minutes to the peak, so go and see it, then proceed onwards and follow the signs towards the other peaks. After crossing the pass, which might take another hour, you now have a choice of going straight to the West peak (which might shave some two hours off your trip) or taking the circuit over the East and South peaks, which is of course recommended. Simply take your pick and follow the excellent signage.

Having reached the West peak, you can then follow the signs to the cable car (¥140 summer, ¥120 winter) and descend (there is no footpath down from the West peak), then take the coach (¥40) back to Yuquan Road Crossing (玉泉路口 yuquan lukou) or wherever else you may be headed. Alternatively, if you're still not satisfied, you can make the full circuit back to the pass and descend from the North peak on foot or via cable car and then the coach from there (¥20) to the visitor center.

Buy

 * A golden lock at the golden lock temple and add it to the iron railings as a prayer for your family. Couples also often buy locks and inscribe their names on them as a symbol of everlasting love. While people symbolically place their locks at the golden lock pass, many choose to randomly place them on railings by the side.
 * A gold or bronze medal that you can inscribe with your name to commemorate your ascent of the mountain.

Eat
Biang Biang Mian (Noodles) Special Shaanxi noodles available on the mountain. The character for biang is a special character with 57 strokes only used in Shaanxi Province. Small shops also sell typical snacks and drinks.

Yuquan Road (玉泉路 Yuquan Lu) at the foot of the mountain has a number of small restaurants that sell cheap combos such as “four dishes one soup” (四菜一汤 si cai yi tang) for ¥40. These are small and simple dishes and feed 2–3 people at most. It also has some small shops to stock up on supplies such as bottled water, cup noodles, and chocolate.

Drink
Be sure to bring enough water for your hike. You may need to buy water on the mountain which will cost you about ¥5 (up to ¥10 when furthest up on the mountain). If you buy the water before coming the price should be about ¥1.5. Your body needs more water than usual at higher elevations, so bring more than you think you will really need.

Many people will drink Red Bull from small golden cans. This Red Bull is not carbonated and is a little more watery than those available in the United States.

Sleep
Most of the peaks have guesthouses where you can sleep in communal rooms of about 4 to 10 people. The price should be ¥60–120.

For a more authentic experience, sleep by the edge of the cliff at East Peak. The ground slopes upwards towards the edge, thus it is relatively safe to sleep near the edge even though there are no railings. Alternatively, huddle up closer to the metal posts away from the edge of the cliff if you would like a safer place to sleep. Prepare enough warm clothes as the temperature drops close to zero at East Peak, with the wind chill.

There are also many accommodation options in the village at the foot of the mountain.

Climbing safety
No special equipment is needed to climb Mt. Hua. Many of the paths have been renewed, and most of them are fairly wide, with easier alternative routes around the very steepest sections. The most notorious paths (the Vast Sky Plank Walk and Sparrowhawk Flips Over) – which are sometimes said to have been responsible for dozens of deaths each year – are completely optional. Some parts of the climb are steep and narrow, but experienced hikers and mountain climbers should find manageable, well-trodden routes.

Obviously, a hike up the side of a famously vertiginous mountain isn't going to work for wheelchair users or other people with mobility problems, and if your cardiologist has warned you away from strenuous exercise, then climbing up a few hundred stone steps is not what the doctor ordered. This mountain is also a bad idea if you have height vertigo, a fear of heights, unstable epilepsy, a tendency to faint, or anything other than an excellent head for heights and good aerobic fitness. As the peak is considered only moderately high, most people will not experience altitude sickness.

Basically all of the paths get slippery when wet. Take special care in wet weather or when the mountain is crowded (especially on national holidays). In snowy conditions, an army of workers is employed to brush the snow from the paths, so the mountain can be climbed year-round. Simply wear comfortable shoes with good grip as well as warm clothes, tread carefully, use your common sense and good judgment.

Some Chinese tourists prefer to start the climb at night in order to see the sunrise from the peak. This is not a good idea as the path has branches and you can get lost and end up at a cliff. A better idea is to budget 2 days and stay the night in one of the many hotels on the mountain. If you must climb at night, make sure to bring a flashlight.

You will want to bring a pair of gloves, because many of the paths require holding onto a railing or metal chain. Cheap gloves are also for sale at the foot of the mountain or along the paths. There are many toilets and shops on the mountain, as well as excellent signs.

Scams
Watch out for scams, especially if you are planning to climb the mountain overnight to watch sunrise at the East Peak. The only transportation available then are cabs. There will also be unofficial "cabs" (basically normal cars operated by locals) called hei che (black cars) parked near the train station. Drivers will approach you offering to bring you to the entrance for a price of around ¥30. On the way, if it has rained recently, they will claim that there had been a slight erosion which has caused a blockage of the paths and thus closure of the entrances. To make the story sound more convincing, some may even pretend to call their "brother" or "friend" on the mountain who will then speak to you to confirm that the roads have been closed. If the weather is good, the driver will claim that the roads are under maintenance. Knowing that you would need a visual confirmation to be fully convinced, the driver will then take you to the East Gate, which is always closed at night. At that crucial moment where you are thinking to yourself that your plans have been spoilt, he will recommend that you stay in a hotel before attempting the climb the next morning, and very conveniently, there will be an "affordable" hotel right next to the entrance, which he will point out. If he succeeds in getting you to fork out money to stay the night, he will earn a commission.

Go next
In Huashan village, minibuses leave from the intersection of Yuquan Lu and Xitong Gonglu, as well as the East Gate that gives access to the cable car station, on a frequent basis. Although some guides say they stop at 7PM, unlicensed transportation continues. In a worst-case scenario a rickety village taxi could surely be persuaded to make the trip back to Xi'an for ¥300–500.

title: Huashan National Park


text:
Huatugou

Huatugou (花土沟) is a small oil-drilling town. It is in Qinghai Province in north west China.

Understand
The town is near a small salty lake called Gaz Hure Hu. In the low hills near town, if you go wandering, you can see oil derricks, as oil is the economic mainstay of the area, and perhaps small black pools of thick tar seeping to the surface.

Huatugou is a small oil-drilling town at 38°08'60"N, 90°52'00"E and 2,859 m. Perhaps there was more of a boom time in years past or hope of a boom yet to come, because many three-story concrete buildings stand empty. The town is near a small salty lake called Gaz Hure Hu. In the low hills near town, if you go wandering, you can see oil derricks, as oil is the economic mainstay of the area, and perhaps small black pools of thick tar seeping to the surface.

Important! Huatugou is a closed town. A closed town means that foreign visitors are not allowed to travel to or through the town without first getting a permit from the Aliens Entry and Exit Administration (AEEA) office of the PSB station in the town from which they will be traveling to the closed town.

Getting an Alien Travel Permit (ATP) is usually a straightforward process. All cities and most towns of any size have an AEEA office inside a central PSB (public security bureau or police) station. The AEEA office is also where you would go to get your visa extended.

The AEEA officers are usually friendly and usually know a bit of English. Let the AEEA officer know you want to go to Huatugou on your way to Xinjiang. An ATP costs ¥50. You get a folded form about the size of your passport;The permitted destinations written inside in Chinese only.

In Golmud, the bus station will not sell you a ticket to Huatugou unless you have an ATP. Similarly, the bus station in Dunhuang will not sell you a ticket to Huatugou unless you have an ATP. (Dunhuang is not itself a closed town, but the route to Dunhuang goes through a number of closed towns.) Some travelers have reported success in flagging down the bus just after it left the station and paying the fare on board without having a permit. There are several checkpoints on route, but travelers report that buses are rarely stopped.

Lodging staff in closed towns are required to report foreign guests. This seems to be generally overlooked in a transit hub like Huatugou, but you'll likely be reported if you stay in any other town in the area or if you stay in Huatugou for more than a day. If an official finds someone without a permit, travelers report they usually claim ignorance of the rules and are usually scolded and then restricted to their lodging and closely watched by hotel staff until they get on the next bus out of town. If you are belligerent with the officer, or if s/he has had a bad day for some other reason, you may be required to take a bus back in the direction from which you came.

By plane
A small airport exists for those working in the oil industry. There are direct flights to and from Golmud and Dunhuang starting at around ¥600.

By bus
the bus station is in the main road

 * Bus from Golmud - takes 6-7 hours, departs from golmud at 12:00, foreigners need an Alien Travel Permit that you can get in the psb
 * Bus from Dunhuang - there is a bus from Dunhuang - but, the bus station in Dunhuang will not sell you a ticket to Huatugou unless you have an ATP, You can't get this permit in Dunhuang because it's in another province, so you have to do the ride to the psb in Golmud, and from there to take the bus to Huatugou. (as to April 2011)

Sleep
Just two hotels are allowed to accommodate foreigners in the town. One is in the budget price range, and the other in the middle price range.

There are many other places to stay, some cheap and some expensive, but if you are a foreigner, they probably won't let you sleep there and just will call the PSB.

South Silk road
Twice daily minibuses run the 65 km in 1.5-2 hours for ¥15 between Huatugou and Shimiankuang (石绵矿 literally: asbestos mine), a tiny worker hamlet north of a large surface-level asbestos mine.

The first is at 9:00 (Beijing Time), from the main road in front of the bus station.

title: Huatugou


text:
Huatulco

Bahías de Huatulco (pronounced Wha-TOOL-Co), is a destination resort area on Mexico's Pacific Coast in its most southern state of Oaxaca. More commonly known to outsiders as just Huatulco, the area is locally referred to as "Bahias" to distinguish it from the original, further-inland town of Santa María Huatulco. Huatulco's tourism industry is centered around its nine bays, four of which have been designated as ecological preserves where no development is permitted. The bays of Huatulco and adjacent dry tropical forest are a designated UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Because of the sheltered nature of Huatulco's bays, its white sand beaches are a great place for wading or swimming in calm waters, and it's also the main place along the Oaxaca coast for snorkeling, though most of the coral died in the marine heat wave of 2023.

Understand
The name Huatulco historically refers to the lively (but decidedly non-touristy) town of Santa María Huatulco, located in the foothills of the Sierra Madre del Sur a number of kilometers inland from the beaches. However, the Huatulco tourist area is centered on the small towns of La Crucecita, Santa Cruz, Chahué, and Tangolunda, officially considered outlying villages of the Santa María Huatulco municipality, which are gradually merging into one bigger population center. The area is a FONATUR ('Fondo Nacional de Fomento al Turismo') project, developed deliberately from the ground up as a resort area within the last few decades, and has been a major success in that regard. FONATUR is also responsible for the resorts in Cancun, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Los Cabos and Loreto Bay. Compared to nearby backpacker haven Mazunte or small beach town Zipolite, Huatulco's vibe is more about Mexican families on vacation.

Approximately 1/3 of the land area of Huatulco is part of the Huatulco National Park (Parque Nacional Huatulco), managed by CONANP. The national park is charged with preserving the ecosystems of the region, especially lowland tropical deciduous forest, coral reefs, mangroves and flooded forests. Huatulco National Park includes more than 6,000 hectares of land area and more than 5,000 hectares of marine environment in the nine bays of Huatulco. The park is home to a great diversity of flora and fauna species; many are endemic to the region and at risk of extinction. Huatulco has a wide variety of accommodations to suit various budgets. From rooms for rent, small economy hotels, vacation condominiums and luxury villas, along with several (all-inclusive) resorts standing on the shores of Tangolunda Bay. Las Brisas (which used to be the world's largest Club Med), the Dreams Resort (which used to be the Gala Hotel), the Barceló, Crown Pacific and the Camino Real Zaashila are examples of the most popular larger resorts in the area.

Huatulco's main attraction are its nine bays and 36 beaches, some of which are pristine and undeveloped, and accessible only by boat. With the help of local guides and tour operators, one can explore the beaches and bays in relative privacy, or if you choose you can scuba dive or snorkel to see the abundant tropical fish on the once-thriving coral reefs (most of the coral itself died in the marine heat wave of 2023 - as of 2024, there are still a lot of fish, and some hope that the coral might recover over the next 10-20 years).

In addition to the beautiful bays and beaches, you can explore and shop in the small communities of the Huatulco area, such as La Crucecita, Santa Cruz or old Santa Maria Huatulco (the district's municipal center). When doing so, you can travel between the communities by bus or taxi. The entire area has a "small town" feel about it and is rarely crowded with tourists with the exception of the Christmas and Semana Santa (Easter) holiday periods. Approximately 80% of all tourism in Huatulco is domestic in nature and only about 20% of Huatulco's tourism is foreign, perhaps because direct international air access is limited to flights from several Canadian cities, Chicago and Houston all others having to make connections through Mexico City.

Huatulco has a small but very attractive international airport 10 min from the main commercial center, La Crucecita and 20 min from the large resort hotels in Tangolunda Bay. The peak season for foreign tourism is typically December through April.

The numerous small towns making up Huatulco such as Santa Cruz, La Crucecita, Chahue and Tangolunda are located in an "ecological zone" with some of the area being protected from future development. All of these areas are serviced by modern water and sewage treatment systems so that you can actually drink the water from the tap (unheard of in most Mexican resorts) and no sewage waste goes into its pristine bays.

Get in
Huatulco is a 10-hour drive or a 1-hour flight from Mexico City, or a 6-hour drive or very short flight from the city of Oaxaca.

By air

The Huatulco International Airport is small but very pretty with its large open air palapa buildings. It is a 10- to 20-minute drive to the areas of La Crucecita, Santa Cruz and Tangolunda, where the majority of the hotels and other types of accommodations are located.

If you have an air/hotel package, your bus transfer may be included; if not, you can take an "authorized taxi" from the airport or purchase a ticket (one way or round trip) on an "authorized shuttle" at a stand in the airport arrival area, or prearranged shuttle transport. The "authorized" transportation from the airport are priced higher than other taxis in the area, so be prepared. An alternative is to walk a short distance, about 500 meters, out to the main road and catch a much cheaper non-airport taxi for a few hundred pesos (which won't be air-conditioned, except maybe for an extra fee), or even a local bus for just 20 pesos as of 2024 (the latter will not have room for your baggage, so it's best if you are traveling light). White "Rapidos de Pochutla" vans running between Puchutla and La Crucecita also pass outside the airport, and may be willing to put your lugging in the back compartment. They probably charge a similar amount to the bus.

If you have a farther distance to travel (Puerto Escondido, Puerto Angel, San Augustinillo, Mazunte, etc.) then you may want to take a taxi to the bus station in La Crucecita, which is in the opposite direction, and take a first class bus from there. Or walk to the highway from the airport (about 1 block) and catch a white "Rapidos de Pochutla" van or second-class Sur bus to Pochutla. There may also be collectivo taxis (regular taxis that shared with strangers) cruising by which charge a little more than the bus.

By bus
Buses from Oaxaca City have historically run daily and overnight and taken around 8 hours. This may have changed since the opening of the new Oaxaca-Puerto Escondido freeway in February 2024.

By colectivo
There are at least three shared van services traveling from Oaxaca city to either Huatulco or Pochutla, not far west of Huatulco (from which you can get other transport to your destination). Locals in Oaxaca call them "suburban". They run large, air-conditioned vans, though sometimes the AC is broken, and make multiple stops. The trip is supposed to be about six hours, and should cost about MXN$300-400.

Oaxaca to Pochutla

By boat
You could also visit by cruise ship, as Santa Cruz Bay has a pier for cruise ships, and you may spot one in port some days.

Get around
The Bahías de Huatulco tourist area revolves around a few town centers:
 * La Crucecita is the biggest town center, where vacationers and local tourism workers mix freely. Though it's largely a normal Mexican town, it does have a high number of cute restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops, especially in the central area near the zócalo. A bit more inland, it's at least a 30 minute walk to the nearest beach (Santa Cruz).
 * Santa Cruz Huatulco is the mega-tourist village centered around the cruise ship terminal. It has a decent beach, a big marina for boat trips, and lots of tourist-oriented businesses.
 * Chahué is another beach village to the east of Santa Cruz
 * Tangolunda is a beach hotel area even further to the east
 * San Agustín is a remote village to the west of the main tourist centers on the far side of the national park, accessible only by boat or a long (but well-graded) dirt road from a junction near the airport. Known as a relatively chill and less-crowded beach hangout spot, but still crowded with restaurants, smaller accommodations, and something of a local village.

Various outlying beaches are accessible beyond Santa Cruz and San Agustín by paved road (La Entrega and Maguey), dirt road (Riscalillo), hiking trail (Cacaluta, Violín, Órgano), or only by boat (Chachacual, La India, etc.).

By taxi
Taxis are the most transport method for visitors, and the area is extremely easy to get around if you can afford paying 35-100 pesos for a ride (depending on how far you're going). Taxis are color coded for different home base areas, but in generally any taxi will take you anywhere "especial" (paying the entire fare).

It is best to verify the price before getting into a taxi. Locals do not tip taxi drivers, although tourists may be expected to. There are some signs around which have posted prices to certain beaches or towns. Another option is to rent a driver for the day if you want to go farther afield, to Puerto Escondido for example.

Between the major town centers, it is possible to find "colectivo" taxis (normal taxi cabs that put strangers together in the car) at certain waiting areas. Ask working class locals where to wait. To get a colectivo taxi from La Crucecita to Santa Cruz (the tourist village by the cruise ship terminal), the waiting area is right outside the northern entrance of the Plaza El Madero shopping center. As of 2024 the taxis charge 10 pesos per passenger, and leave only when there are at least 4 passengers (or if someone else pays extra to reach the private taxi price of 35 pesos). This makes it possible to travel a bit faster than on a local bus (which is the same price), but only if you happen to arrive when there are enough other passengers. Returning from Santa Cruz to La Crucecita, colectivo taxis leave from the corner of the main boulevard and the street that runs by the entrance to the tourist boat pier.

Outlying beaches (such as La Entrega and Maguey) have no public transit, but you may be able to find a colectivo taxi on the way back to town at certain times of the day. If going to the much-farther beach area of San Augustín, you can take a local bus (20 pesos in 2024) to the big highway junction ("crucero") west of the airport and then catch a colectivo taxi the rest of the way (30 pesos per person from the dirt parking lot at the southeast corner of the junction. You may have to wait awhile. Be careful - San Agustín is much too far to walk from the other parts of Huatulco if you get stuck there in the evening (though there are accomodations to stay at). If you make it back to the junction, there are also colectivo taxis back to La Crucecita (30 pesos per person) that run later into the evening than the buses, checking for passengers on the west side of the intersection under the flyover.

By local bus
Huatulco has a system of local public buses (called "camiones", not "autobuses") painted blue and white. There area few different routes, not always marked on the outside of the bus, so double check that it's going where you think it is. Most of them run either between La Crucecita and Santa Cruz (10 pesos in 2024) or between La Crucecita and the inland town center of Santa María Huatulco (25 pesos in 2024, passing the long-distance bus stations, the airport entrance, and the junction to San Agustín - see above). The main stops for boarding buses between La Crucecita and Santa Cruz are the same as for colectivo taxis (and the price, 10 pesos, is the same too as of 2024). From La Crucecita to Santa Cruz, the waiting area is right outside the northern entrance of the Plaza El Madero shopping center, and from Santa Cruz to La Crucecita, it's common to wait on corner of the main boulevard and the street that runs by the entrance to the tourist boat pier. You can probably flag down one of these buses at any point along its route.

By boat
Small boats ("lanchas") and catamarans are available for hire to take you just about anywhere in the area, generally for prices in the thousands of pesos for a whole boat. "Colectivo" boats (shared with strangers) do day trips from Santa Cruz that visit several different bays in the national park, with stops that depend on the operators, for about 600 pesos per person in April 2024.

By rental car
Renting a car is not necessary as cabs are plentiful and fairly cheap, and where the shopping, restaurants, hotels and many beaches are concentrated is not a huge area. If you do prefer to rent a car, Budget, Avis, and Advantage are companies located there, among others. It is best to reserve a car in advance to get the best rates.

See
The "Bays of Huatulco" are the main sightseeing attraction, with daily boat trips (550-600 pesos per person for a "colectivo" boat) visiting multiple sheltered beaches, letting passengers step on the beach or snorkel at certain ones, often including remote beaches in the national park without any buildings or access by road. As of April 2024, one promoter claimed that dolphins, turtles, and whales are also seen on every trip.

There is also a waterfall somewhere in the area.

Do
The main activity here is hanging out on the beach. Major tourist beaches (Santa Cruz, Chahué, Tangolunda, La Entrega, Maguey, San Agustín) are lined with seafood restaurants and bars, where you can generally enjoy shade, a relatively safe place to put your belongings, and sometimes wifi, as long as you're "consuming". The water is generally calm and safe to play or swim in, with large areas of each bay roped off with buoys to protect from boat traffic (though life guards, where present, don't seem to enforce any rules on where or when you swim).

If that sounds boring to you, the national park also offers decent snorkeling, diving, hiking, birdwatching, and mountain biking.\

If you enjoy shopping for souvenirs, there are plenty of places to do it, particularly in Santa Cruz and the La Crucecita town center.

If you want to feel really local, there's a low-budget amusement park in La Crucecita, at the corner of Av. Santa Cruz and Flamboyán, with carnival rides and games (free entry - pay as you go).

Drink
The serious nightlife scene is two hours away in Puerto Escondido, but Huatulco does have a lot of small bars, especially in the Crucecita town center (and of course inside beach resorts). In the daytime, most beaches have multiple restaurants right on the sand with beer service, and possibly drinks. Be aware that "cocteles" here usually means seafood salads (like shrimp cocktail), not mixed drinks.

Stay safe
The Huatulco area seems to be very safe in terms of crime. Maybe consider inquiring locally before wandering dark parts of Crucecita at night.

Swimming here is generally safer than other places because of the calm, sheltered water in the bays, but you should still be cautious - never underestimate the ocean. Jellyfish can sometimes show up, but they don't seem to be the dangerous kind. Crocodiles are theoretically present in wetlands in the national park, but shouldn't be an issue on sandy beaches.

Go next
Zipolite The next beach village to the east, about 45 km. Relaxed vibe, growing tourist destination, already popular on the Pacific Coast Backpacker Route. A beach where you lose track of time, also Mexico's only official nude beach.

Mazunte 12 km from Zipolite. Vibe is more "foreign backpacker haven" compared to Huatulco's "vacation resort for Mexican families", but it also has international tourists of all budgets, and even a few Mexicans. Famous for its National Sea Turtle Museum and Natural Cosmetics center.

San Pedro Pochutla - Regional market and travel hub for the Pacific coast. Lots of good street food, but not much else to do. Catch a bus here to Oaxaca City, and pretty much anywhere in Mexico.

San Cristobal de las Casas Colonial town in Chiapas, which can be reached by bus along the coast without having to return to Oaxaca city. Firmly established stop for international backpackers.

title: Huatulco


text:
Huaquillas

Huaquillas is on the border of Ecuador and Peru near the coast. It's separated by a dirty river from its Peruvian counterpart Aguas Verdes. It's dirty, noisy and busy. Most travellers only come here because they have to.

Get in
Crossing from Ecuador to Peru used to be complicated and dangerous, and there were many scams. You will see horror stories on the Internet from years ago. Now, Ecuadorian and Peruvian border officials sit side by side in the same building.

From Huaquillas you can take a yellow taxi to the joint Ecuador-Peru migration office 15 min along the highway for $5 (Feb 2018). Your driver may tell you that the Peruvian taxis only take Peruvian soles and offer to exchange money at rip-off rates. Don't fall for it.

Line up first for to get into the building, and to be directed to a "Salida del Ecuador" desk. Then you have to queue a second time (inside the building) for an "Ingreso Al Peru" desk.

On your way out, look for the green-and-yellow sign that show the fixed-rate taxi fares to a dozen different destinations within Peru, e.g. US$10 or S/33 for the 20-30 min trip to Tumbes (Feb 2018). The drivers take either currency.

The emigration procedure is usually quick. On entrance to Ecuador you get a stamp in your passport. Onward tickets are seldom required and if so usually you can talk your way out of it.

In Huaquillas you have to cross the international bridge by foot. Either to catch a mototaxi on the Peruvian side to the emigration office or a taxi or bus on the Ecuadorian side to the emigration office.

Several bus companies have international lines between Guayaquil and Tumbes or further south. They wait at the immigration office. This saves a lot of hassle and is, in general, a cheaper way of crossing the border.

Get around
The town is quite small so you can walk most places. There are three-wheeled "tri-moto" cabs. However, like any place, you might want to stay off streets that are darker or where there is little foot traffic.

See
The little plaza in the middle of town is small but nice.

Buy
There is some shopping on the main street towards the Peruvian border, but not much. Agues Verdes on the Peruvian side has more. For more shopping, try Machala about an hour north.

Stay safe
This border crossing is known for muggings and robberies, be very careful of your personal belongings and safety.

Go next

 * Machala, a much bigger city about an hour north
 * Tumbes, a popular Peruvian town about 20 km away
 * Mancora, a Peruvian surf town a few hours away

title: Huaquillas


text:
Huayna Potosí

Huayna Potosi is a mountain and National Park in the La Paz Department of Bolivia. It's about 30 km north of La Paz and the mountain reaches 6088 m above sea level. About 1000 climbers make it to the summit every year, and it is said to be an "easy" peak. Base Camp and the obvious entry point for treks in the park is at Zongo Pass 4700 m, on the way to Zongo. Rock Camp at 5130 m offers great views and is the place from where climbers make their ascent of the peak.

History
The mountain was first climbed in 1919 by Germans Rudolf Dienst and Adolf Schulze.

Landscape
Snow covered "nevados" contrast a crisp blue sky in front of the sea of clouds hiding The Yungas in the east, while the outskirts of El Alto on the Altiplano stretches towards Chile to the west. Glaciers has made the ground on the mountains rocky and the beautifully green dammed lakes in the Zongo Valley adds color to the landscape.

Flora and fauna
Domestic llamas, sheep and alpacas digest what little plants survives at this altitude. Birds in all sizes are abundant and condors make spectacular moves in the wind. A surprising colony of mice thrive among the rocks in Rock Camp.

Climate
Winters are sunny and dry, summers wet and more cloudy. Although snow can fall at any time and season. Winter is the main climbing season.

By bus
Buses to Zongo Pass depart from Plaza Ballivian in El Alto daily. A minibus leaves at 05:00 and a supposedly larger bus departs at 06:00. Green micros cruise central La Paz and terminates at Plaza Ballivian. Jump off either at "base camp" before Lake Zongo, or at the Refugio Huayna Potosi 2 km further on at the end of the lake.

By taxi

 * From La Paz it takes 1½-2 hours and drivers will try for Bs. 400 to start with. They should be able to go for under Bs. 200. Cheaper rides from Plaza Ballivian in El Alto, see below.
 * From El Alto it takes 1½ hours and costs around Bs. 100 after bargaining. Green Micros takes you from central La Paz to Plaza Ballivian in El Alto.

Fees and permits
Bring copies of passport or remember your document's number, as there is a police check at the turnoff to Chacaltaya. Police ask for Bs. 2. Another checkpoint is 5 km before Zongo Pass. Drivers are held for 5 minutes by police and are sometimes charged Bs. 5. If you are not keen on organizing the trip yourself, go to an authorized operator. Ex. Topas Bolivia (http://www.topas.bo/climbing/clhp02-uk.htm )

By foot
There are two starting points for ascending to Rock Camp.
 * From Base Camp a very clear path traverses a couple of kilometres to the moraine ridge.
 * From the refugio a obvious path takes you over the dam and up the moraine ridge.
 * From the moraine ridge the steep path of gravel and larger rocks leading to Rock Camp can be a scary surprise for the unprepared. Ascending is OK, even in sandals, but beware of the descent. The path is more difficult to follow going down and you can easily find yourself at very steep sections. Memorize the turns going up and do have good shoes with you. Ascent from the refugio or Base Camp takes about four hours, the descent takes two hours.

See
The views of neighbouring mountains from Rock Camp is great, and it's a nice place for relaxing, especially between 11:00 and 16:00. when the sun is up and heats the rocks. At about 16:00 the sun disappears behind the mountain and it turns bitterly cold.

Do

 * Climbing on the normal route is straightforward. Bring glacier travel kit (rope, slings, harness, karabiners or special devices for crevass rescue), crampons and one ice axe. Most people rope up on the glacier and better safe than sorry, but the hundreds of climbers each year make a very clear path around the obvious crevasses. A steeper section at about 5600 m may require rope and rappelling experience, as do the last part of the climb to the top. The French Route requires more skills and two technical ice axes.
 * Skiing or snowboarding Huayna Potosi is quite doable but the glacier may be icy on the lower sections. Memorize the obvious crevasses on the way up and keep close to the path. Skis are available in La Paz, but is of poor quality, ask around in tourist agencies.
 * The making of hot chocolate or equally hot Tomato Soup is an essential activity for those hours after 16:00 when the sun is obscured by the mountain. Stock up on ingredients in La Paz and practice the procedure carefully before setting out.

Camping
Warning (Sep 2009): some tents and gear have been stolen while their owners were ascending the summit.

Stay safe
Bring a warm sleeping bag and a good tent. Night temperatures in winter drops to -15ºC or even lower. Good boots are necessary for the descent from Rock Camp. Try to remember exactly which way you took and which turns you made going up, as it's harder to find your way going down and you might end up with a couple of metres of rock climbing ahead of you if taking the wrong path (not a desirable prospect with a heavy backpack). In Base Camp, make sure your food is kept sheep proof. In Rock Camp, make sure your food is kept mice proof.

By bus
Catching a bus from Zongo Pass will not be a problem. remember: Buses who enter the Zongo valley in the morning should return in the afternoon, there is no other exit. They might be full of passengers and goods, but will take you. Try to ask at the refugio or at Base Camp for schedule.

Hitchhiking
Hitchhiking is often your only budget choice when getting back to La Paz/El Alto, but there is little traffic. Llama shepherds say it is easier to walk 4 km to the police checkpoint, and hitch from there. Drivers ask for about Bs. 15 per person for the ride. Be sure to have camping equipment if stranded.

Taxi
The Altamirano family at Base Camp and the refugio Huayna Potosí can call a taxi for you. The cost is Bs. 150 to 180.

title: Huayna Potosí