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Bangkok/Rattanakosin

Rattanakosin (Thai: รัตนโกสินทร์), also known as Rattanakosin Island, is the historic centre of Bangkok, where most of Bangkok's "must see" sights can be found, including the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. Rattanakosin was established in 1782 when King Rama I moved the Siamese capital across the river from Thonburi, starting a period in Thai history known as the Rattanakosin Period. Spending a few days in this remarkable district does not just show you dozens of traditional Buddhist temples, palaces, museums, parks and monuments, but also gives you a better understanding of the culture, history and religion of the Thai people.

History
The Rattanakosin Kingdom was the fourth Thai Kingdom, after the Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Thonburi Kingdoms. When the powerful Ayutthaya Kingdom was destroyed and burnt by Burmese armies in 1767, a short period of chaos and Burmese occupation ensued in the lands of Siam. The resistance was led by General Taksin, a capable military leader who defeated the Burmese in one year and established the new Siamese capital in Thonburi, across the Chao Phraya River from Rattanakosin. Instead of just re-conquering Siam, he also took hold of western Cambodia, almost the entire Malay peninsula, Lanna (modern Northern Thailand), and Laos.

Despite these successes, a number of issues arose. In 1779 King Taksin had proclaimed himself a sotapanna (or divine figure), striking against the powerful Buddhist monks. The state was in economic turmoil, with rampant corruption and famine. Many Chinese factions were discontented with the current leadership and King Taksin tried to restore order by using harsh punishments and purges. A popular general under King Taksin was General Phraya Chakri, who had successfully managed the invasion of Cambodia. While managing his armed forces in Cambodia, a rebellion throttled Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to step down. King Taksin was secretly executed. When Phraya Chakri came back from Cambodia, he was offered the throne, becoming King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty that started the Rattanakosin Period.

One of his first actions was to move the capital across the river, from Thonburi to Rattanakosin, as he believed that Rattanakosin had a more strategic location. He turned it into an artificial island with the Chao Phraya River in the west and man-made canals in the east. Chinese merchants were living in Rattanakosin at that time, but they were relocated outside of the new city walls to the area now known as Yaowarat. King Rama I restored the social and political system of the Ayutthaya Period, even imitating that city's layout and architecture in Rattanakosin — including the Grand Palace, which building plan closely resembled that of the Grand Palace in Ayutthaya. Even the bricks from the ruins in Ayutthaya were moved downstream to be incorporated into the new capital's grand scheme.

Orientation
As the district was the result of careful 18th century urban planning, orientation in Rattanakosin is fairly straightforward. Like Ayutthaya, the focal point of the area is Sanam Luang, a wide-open royal field and the site of many ceremonies and festivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding this field are Rattanakosin's prime sights, the most important of which is the Grand Palace. Just as in Ayutthaya, part of its compound is dedicated to a royal temple, Wat Phra Kaeo, the most sacred temple of Thailand, home to the Emerald Buddha. South of the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, the temple that houses a giant reclining Buddha statue. It's best to spend a full day taking in these shimmering beauties. The Chao Phraya River flows on the west side of the district, and most foreign visitors use the express boat to hop from place to place. It's also possible to walk between the sights, but carry a bottle of water and dress lightly for the weather.

Khao San Road is in every way an integral part of Rattanakosin, but is separately covered as it turned into a laid-back hippy-style party area that is quite different from the grandeur of Rattanakosin proper. Walking from Khao San Rd to the Grand Palace takes about 20 minutes if you don't make any stops on the way.

Get in
Getting into Rattanakosin used to be quite a hassle, as the Skytrain and MRT systems did not cover the area until 2019, when the MRT's Sanam Chai Station was opened. Other options are to either take a taxi, or use the boats.

By boat
The best way to get in Rattanakosin is by Chao Phraya Express Boat. Besides a relatively quick and convenient way of travel, it is also much more enjoyable than looking at cars stuck in traffic while inhaling exhaust gases. The wind from the river is a relaxed way to cool down from tropical temperatures, too.

If you're coming from the city centre, you can use the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto the express boat. A single trip from Saphan Taksin to Tha Chang (near the Grand Palace) takes about 30 minutes and costs 15 baht. Other notable stops include Tha Tien (for Wat Pho), Phra Arthit (for Khao San Road) and Thewet (for Dusit). It is best to take the orange flag boats, as yellow flag boats miss out on many important stops.

From Tha Tien (Wat Pho), you can take a ferry shuttle to Wat Arun, across the river at the Thonburi side. Ferries leave every 10 minutes for just 3 baht. As many students from the universities live across the river in Thonburi, there are plenty of other commuter ferries that cross the river. Tha Chang has ferries to Wat Rakung and Wang Lang (Siriraj), Tha Phra Chan has ferries to Wang Lang (Siriraj), Thonburi Railway and Phra Pin Klao Bridge, and Thewet has a ferry to Wat Kharubodj.

Eastern Rattanakosin (roughly the area around the Golden Mount) is served by the Golden Mount Line of the Saen Saep Express Boat service. If you happen to be in that area, using the canal boat is the quickest way to get to Siam Square, Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. The stop closest to the Golden Mount is Panfa Leelard, from which there are direct services to Pratunam. There you could switch onto the NIDA Line, that runs from Pratunam all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung in Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Pratunam takes about 20 minutes and costs 12 baht. On the trip, you will pass the stops Talad Bobae (for the garment market of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for Jim Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square) and Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong).

By bus
While Rattanakosin is not as chaotic as other districts, bus travel is still not a good idea. However, as public transport options are limited, going by bus can be the fastest way to get to or from Siam Square or Silom (though this is heavily depending on traffic). The road around Sanam Luang is one of the city's bus hubs, but as it is a circular road, it is quite difficult to find out where the bus is going. It is better to get on the bus in front of Tha Chang Pier (near the Grand Palace).

Ordinary bus 47 starts at Tha Tien Pier (near Wat Pho) and then passes Tha Chang Pier, Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road, Bamrung Muang Road and finally reaches MBK Center (for Siam Square). It then continues its way along Phaya Thai Road and Rama IV Road before reaching the intersection with Silom Road.

Another option is ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25, which starts at Tha Chang and then continues to Hualamphong Train Station via Charoen Krung Road (in opposite direction it will skip Charoen Krung Road and take Yaowarat Road instead). Then it continues its way along Rama IV Road passing Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm and the Silom Road intersection. From there, it heads north through Ratchadamri Road to Ratchaprasong intersection (for Siam Square), from which it heads a long way east along Phloen Chit Road and Sukhumvit Road.

See

A trip to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to some of Rattanakosin's prime sights. Bangkok counts hundreds of Buddhist temples, known in Thai as "wats", with the most important ones in Rattanakosin. Temples are an essential part of the daily life of most Thais. Most of them have impressive architecture and much devotion has been given to the decoration. Every temple is unique — some of them are beautifully decorated with thousands of coloured glass pieces, while others portray massive Buddha statues of pure gold.

You could spend weeks visiting temples in Bangkok, but as most visitors only spend a couple of days in the city, it is important to choose the ones that are especially beautiful, sacred and culturally significant. The Grand Palace is not just a palace, but also includes Wat Phra Kaew, the royal temple and most sacred temple in Thailand. It is a must-see for every visitor of the city, and the palace grounds are so large that you have to spend at least a full morning walking through the complex. Beside the Grand Palace, most travellers visit Wat Pho, one of the largest reclining Buddha statues in the world, and Wat Arun, a large prang that is beautifully decorated with blue and white ceramics (it is at the Thonburi side of the river, but is easily visited using the ferry from Tha Tien Pier). These top three attractions are conveniently clustered right next to each other. Other prominent temples are Wat Saket and the Golden Mount, built on an artificial hill with a nice view over the city, and Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing at the eastern side of Rattanakosin. Wat Ratchanaddaram, Wat Thep Thida Ram, Wat Ratchabophit and Wat Ratchapradit could be considered off the beaten path and give a more authentic experience.

For all temples you must be dressed appropriately (no shorts, no flipflops, no sleeveless shirts) or risk being denied entry, although some places will offer rental parachute pants for a small (refundable) deposit. Trousers can be bought for 250-300 baht in front of the Palace; outside the Temple area, you get them for 100 baht. Tour guides offer their service and may include the trousers. The temples play an important role in Buddhist traditions. Monks wake up early in the morning and perform the daily alms ritual between 05:00 and 07:00 (called tak bat ตักบาตร). Monks line up in front of the temple accepting donations from the people, most of them food and daily necessities such as rice, soap, candles, soda cans and even toilet paper. By giving, Buddhists believe that these good deeds will bring luck later in life or in the life beyond. The best temple to experience the alms ceremony is Wat Benchamabophit in Dusit. At one of the Buddhist markets, you can buy a bucket filled with products to give to the monks (see Buy).

Whether you walk or take a tuk-tuk, don't listen to anyone telling you the temples are closed for a "Buddhist holiday", that they're only open in the afternoon because the monks are praying, or anything else along those lines. While it's true that opening times of temples and palaces can vary due to ceremonies and state occasions, you should always check it out yourself. These seemingly "helpful pedestrians" are in fact scammers, trying to get you into a full-day tuk-tuk ride around the city, where they'll try to trick you into buying gems, souvenirs and other junk.

It's worth giving the Grand Palace and Wat Pho together a full day since the heat and glare are very wearing and there is a lot to take in.

Grand Palace

Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, the, is the official residence of the King, and contains within its grounds Wat Phra Kaew (also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha). The palace was built when Bangkok was established by King Rama I, and has been expanded many times since. It covers a wide range of architectural styles, ranging from the pure Ayutthayan style of the temples to a blend of Thai and Western styles for later structures. While the King no longer lives here, a large part of the complex is used for royal residences and ceremonies and is off-limits to visitors.

Combined entry is a steep 500 baht, plus an optional 200 baht for a two-hour audio guide; Thais get in for free. Your ticket includes entry into the Dusit Palace in Dusit (valid for seven days). The Grand Palace is open every day from 08:30 to 16:30, with the last tickets sold at 15:30; it cannot be said enough, do not believe any scammers who attempt to convince you otherwise. It is best to attend the Grand Palace during weekdays, as some throne halls are closed in the weekends for ceremonial purposes. A strict dress code applies for visitors to the palace. Ladies must cover their upper arms and legs down to the thigh, while men must wear long trousers and at least a t-shirt. Sarongs can be borrowed for free at the entrance, but you must leave a 200 baht deposit. On some holidays the dressing room may be closed, in which case you can rent clothes across the street for a fee. Thais seem to follow even tighter dressing regulations, such as wearing black during royal funeral ceremonies, but they understand it when foreigners do not follow those.

It can get very crowded (and hot) once the tour buses start to roll in, so getting an early start is a good idea. There are free English tours four times a day, just look for the sign after you pass the ticket gate. The palace grounds can easily be explored on your own though. Visitors are corralled along a set route. First you'll walk through Wat Phra Kaeo with the palace buildings coming right after.

Wat Phra Kaew
, formally Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram (วัดพระศรีรัตนศาสดารามหรือวัดพระแก้ว), is the most sacred Buddhist temple of Thailand. While construction of the temple was completed in 1784, it has a sanitised appearance as if it was built only yesterday. The temple houses a diminutive jade statue, the Emerald Buddha (พระแก้วมรกต), of uncertain but long provenance and revered as the symbol of the Thai state. According to the legend, it was created in India in 43 BC after which it was taken to Sri Lanka, Cambodia and eventually Siam. Art historians, however, describe the statue as belonging to the Chiang Saen style of the 15th century, concluding it must have come from Lanna (current Northern Thailand). It was taken to Luang Prabang in the current state of Laos in 1552, and moved to Vientiane twelve years later. In 1779, in the Thonburi Period, General Chao Phraya Chakri captured Vientiane and returned the Emerald Buddha to Siam. When he was crowned as King Rama I, he moved the Emerald Buddha to its current location in Rattanakosin. Visitors line up around the building for a chance to walk by the Emerald Buddha with offerings of lilies and incense. You must take off your shoes before entering the bot, and taking pictures inside is not allowed; violators will have their photo equipment confiscated. Also show respect by sitting with your feet pointing away from the Buddha. The Buddha's clothing is changed three times a year depending on the season; you can see the other outfits in the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins after the tour.

Continuing the tour, the temple consists of a series of courtyards full of chedis and buildings all in different sizes and colours. Some buildings are in gold, some are decorated with broken porcelain and there are smaller wats containing Buddhas of various poses and sizes. Also check out the enormous mural of the Ramayana that decorates the exterior wall. Other interesting structures include the group of eight prang towers, the Sri-Lankan style Phra Si Rattana Chedi, a model of Angkor Wat, the Royal Pantheon, among others.

The palace buildings

Leaving Wat Phra Kaew, on the right you'll see a Chinese gate that is adorned with beautiful small porcelain pieces. Move on and you'll be guided past the beautiful palace buildings. The first you'll see is the Phra Maha Montien (พระมหามณเฑียร) complex and its accompanying buildings. This has been the residence of Siam's kings before King Rama V decided to move to the Chitralada Palace in Dusit. The Amarin Winichai Hall (พระที่นั่งอมรินทรวินิจฉัย), the building's main audience hall, can be accessed by visitors on weekdays. It was used as an audience hall welcoming foreign guests. Inside is the boat-shaped Busabok, an open sided throne topped with a spired roof. It is often used for ceremonies, such as the King's annual birthday speech.

Next up is the Chakri Maha Prasat Hall (พระที่นั่งจักรีมหาปราสาท), a building constructed in the reign of King Rama V in 1876. It was used for receiving royal guests who were monarchs or heads of state. It is built in a distinctively European neo-classical style, but with a Thai roof somewhat incongruously plopped on top. This remarkable design is the result of a dispute between King Rama V and other members of the royal family. King Rama V wanted to give the building an entirely European look, while the other members wanted the building to have distinctively Siamese spires. While unusual, it is still one of the most distinctive and memorable palace buildings in the complex. It had been used as the elephant stables; the bronze elephants are supposed to be a reminder of that. The ashes of the kings of the Chakri dynasty are housed inside. At weekdays you can enter the building for the weapons museum. At noon, in front of the building is where the changing the guard ceremony ends. The guards don't mind when you take pictures with them, just don't take it too far and stay respectful. They will not move no matter what happens.

The final large structure is the Dusit Maha Prasat Hall (พระที่นั่งดุสิตมหาปราสาท). It is a typical Thai building constructed by King Rama I in 1790. Formerly named the Inthraphisek Maha Prasat Hall, this is the first throne hall that has been constructed within the Grand Palace. When a king, queen or other important member of the royal family dies, this palace is used for the lying-in-state; the body is kept here while waiting for an auspicious date for cremation. The inside is only opened on weekdays. It houses the Phra Ratcha Banlang Pradap Muk, a wooden throne beautifully decorated with mother-of-pearl inlaid work. The beautiful Aphorn Phimok Prasat Pavilion (พระที่นั่งอาภรณ์ภิโมกข์ปราสาท) next to the building served as the King's mounting platform and as a changing room for royal processions.

Next to the hall is a small restaurant where you can fresh up with a drink or have something to eat. If you're not thirsty or hungry, continue your way to the Wat Phra Kaeo Museum (พิพิธภัณฑ์วัดพระศรีรัตนศาสดาราม). Yes, we haven't had enough of Wat Phra Kaeo just yet. This museum was designed in the reign of King Rama V as the Royal Mint. Now it shows a treasure of artifacts that were rescued from the restoration of the Grand Palace in the 1980s. On the ground floor you can find the bones of the white elephants of former Kings. More artifacts can be found upstairs, the most interesting being the original costumes of the Emerald Buddha. Also upstairs are the two scale models of the complex. The first one shows the Grand Palace as initially built, while the other shows its current design.

Wat Pho
, popularly known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is the largest temple of Bangkok, and probably the oldest too, as it pre-dates the founding of the capital by about 200 years. Most foreign travellers come for the much-needed picture of themselves with the enormous Reclining Buddha (พระพุทธไสยาสน์ Phra Buddhasaiyas) - the largest reclining Buddha image in Thailand and possibly the largest in the world. The list of records doesn't end there; Wat Pho is home to more than one thousand Buddha images, more than any other temple in Thailand. The temple as it appears now dates from the late 18th century, right after the founding of Rattanakosin, when King Rama I almost completely rebuilt the complex. He renamed the temple Wat Phra Chetuphon (วัดพระเชตุพน), as Thais still call it today, but the new name never really caught on in the West. Another major revamp took place in 1832 when, in the reign of King Rama III, new chapels were added and walls and pillars were decorated with inscriptions about traditional medicine. Wat Pho is often cited as Thailand's first university as, even before the temple's founding, the site was a centre of education for traditional Thai medicine.

The Wat Pho complex is divided into two walled compounds with Chetuphon Road separating them. The southern compound, Tukgawee, is barely visited as it is a working Buddhist monastery with monks residing there. The northern compound can be divided into an eastern and western courtyard. Bus loads of tourists get in using the north entrance at Thai Wang Road, stand in line to get a quick peek of the Reclining Buddha, and then quickly head off again. That's a mistake. Better take the south entrance at Chetuphon Road, which actually is the main entrance. From there, you can start exploring the complex while missing out on most of the tourist crowds. The admission fee is 200 baht, and the temple is open 08:00-17:00. You can arrange an English-speaking personal guide that provides you with interesting information about the complex. This costs around 200-400 baht, depending on the size of your group (and your negotiating skills).

The main entrance is one of the 16 gates that surround the walled compound. These entrances are guarded by enormous Chinese stone giants. Most of these giants are "farang" - Westerners that wear wide-brimmed hats and hold a sword. You'll probably find these Westerners scarier than the guardian demons protecting Wat Phra Kaeo! When Siamese ships exported rice to China, they brought these statues back as ship's ballast. The entrance brings you into the eastern courtyard, which is dominated by the bot. To get to it, take a right from the entrance and then take a left before the southern viharn. At the entrance of the bot are lions that are Burmese in design. Inside the bot, on top of a big altar that contains the relics of King Rama I, is the main Buddha image, which is in Ayutthayan style. Four viharns and a total of 91 prangs and chedis surround the bot.

Moving on to the western courtyard, you'll quickly stumble upon the Reclining Buddha — gold plated, 46 m long, 15 m high, with inlaid mother-of-pearl soles. It is an impressive sight and definitely one you must see on your trip. The Reclining Buddha shows the passing of the Buddha into nirvana, the Buddha's final state of enlightenment before his death. At the back of the statue, you can buy a bag of 50-satang coins and plunk them one by one into the row of copper pots for good luck. Outside the building, four chedis commemorate the first four kings of the Chakri dynasty. The central chedi is the oldest one, it was erected by King Rama I to hold the remains of the Phra Si Sanphet, the most sacred Buddha figure of Ayutthaya. The chedis to the north and to the south house the remains of King Rama II and King Rama III respectively.

There are plenty of other sights and activities inside the large temple complex; above all, try a massage (as described in the Do section) or sign up for a five-day course in the massage school at the back (see the Learn section).

Other temples

Museums

Do
One of the best activities in Rattanakosin is simply to walk around and enjoy the historic sights the area has to offer. Every corner brings something new. The Grand Palace is a good place to start, from where you can explore the whole area on foot.

You can also hire a "Green Bangkok Bike" for free and cycle the Rattanakosin Bicycle Route. Rental places are scattered over the district, such as at the southwestern corner of Sanam Luang, at Tha Tien Pier and beside the tourist office under the Phra Pin Klao Bridge. Officials will take a digital photo of your passport, after which you can pick up the bike. You have till 17:00 to complete the route. Be very careful of traffic though, and do not leave the designated route (as it is the only route with roads that at least resemble bicycle paths).

Learn
Being the historic centre of the city, Rattanakosin is great place to learn meditation, yoga or how to give a traditional Thai massage.

Religious markets

Rattanakosin is the best place in Bangkok for buying amulets and other religious paraphernalia. These markets are among the most authentic ones, as they are meant for faithful Buddhist locals instead of the tourist masses.

Street markets
With all the glitzy shopping malls in Siam Square, shopping in Rattanakosin is more traditional. Like in Khao San Road, street markets are virtually everywhere, but those in Rattanakosin are more authentic as they are set up for the locals. A phrasebook might come in handy. Expect all day markets to close in the early evenings.

Eat
Compared to the profusion of restaurants elsewhere in the city, it is difficult to find a decent place to eat after having visited the Grand Palace. There are some cafés at Na Phra Lan Road, but their dishes are tiny and overpriced. You can have simple rice or noodle dishes for 50 baht at the market at Tha Chang pier. The only good restaurant in the area, Krua Khun Kung, is hidden in a small alley beside the ATM machines. There are also some small eateries east of Khlong Lot catering to local workers having lunch. They have congregated around Tanao Road and Trok Nawa.

Sleep
Rattanakosin is overflowing with sights, but finding accommodation is a challenge. Budget guest houses are clustered on nearby Khao San Road, while Silom, Siam Square and Sukhumvit have plenty of upscale hotels. Most travellers sleep in those districts as they have more variety in accommodation. If you insist on staying in Rattanakosin, choice is limited, but there are some boutique hotels available.

Connect
Getting online in Rattanakosin is not an easy task. There are not a lot of Wi-Fi hotspots or Internet cafés, but as Khao San Road is nearby, you might just want to go online there. The canteen of Thammasat University has an open Wi-Fi signal, but connection quality varies. Niras Bankoc Hostel is a nice place for sipping coffee, and also has free Wi-Fi available for customers.

If you want to send postcards, there is a close to the Grand Palace in the middle of Na Phra Lan Road.

Go next
Rattanakosin has Bangkok's principal tourist sights, but the surrounding districts offer plenty of activities, stores, restaurants and nightlife.

 * Wat Arun, at the other side of the river in Thonburi, is a stunning temple decorated with leftovers from broken Chinese ceramics. It is often visited together with Wat Pho, from where you can take the 3 baht ferry ride across the river.
 * Don't throw away your entry ticket to the Grand Palace. Use it to get a free entry into the leafy Dusit Palace in Dusit (valid for a week). Its prime sight is the Vimanmek Mansion, but you could spend your whole day there if you wish. The ride takes 15 minutes with bus 70 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near Democracy Monument).
 * Just across a small canal in Phahurat is Pak Khlong Talat, a surprisingly fun flower market. It is open 24 hours, but is best visited in the very early morning (around 03:00) when the market is beautifully illuminated and new flower batches arrive.

title: Bangkok/Rattanakosin


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Bangkok/Siam Square

Siam Square area (Thai: สยามสแควร์) is Bangkok's main shopping drag and its BTS Skytrain station is often considered as the centre of the city. This article expands the area to include Ratchaprasong, Phloen Chit Road and Chulalongkorn University.

Understand
While Rattanakosin represents Thailand's history and culture, Siam Square represents Thailand as a newly industrializing economy. Siam Square's first buildings were only constructed in the 1970s, on land of Chulalongkorn University which tried to get some extra rental income for the university. It started with ordinary shops, but has since expanded to a shopping and entertainment mecca that has everything upper-class teenagers and college students could possibly want — luxury shopping malls and glitzy department stores filled with designer labels and hip fashion boutiques.

Despite the name, it is not a square in the traditional sense. It could better be described as a warren of small sois filled with hundreds of tiny boutiques, restaurants, cafés, record stores and bookshops, mostly catering to upper-class 20-something Thais, shopping-spree Malaysians, and working ex-pats. If you're not up for a trip to the Gap or a pink martini, it's still worth a visit just to see the Bangkok-of-the-future. The area north of Rama I Road does feature some kind of courtyard on the second floor, which functions as the entry point for the Siam Center, Siam Discovery and Siam Paragon shopping malls.

Going east on Rama I Road, the shopping experience continues at Ratchaprasong, an area that received worldwide fame when red shirt-wearing political protesters set up their camp here in May 2010. It is home to CentralWorld, the largest shopping mall in Thailand, which was set on fire during these protests, though it was restored within a few months. It gets more quiet as Rama I Road changes its name into Phloen Chit Road in the east. There are some shops and restaurants here, but the area is mostly home to foreign embassies and airline offices.

By public transit
Siam Square is the most central neighbourhood of Bangkok and can be reached by both the Sukhumvit Line and the Silom Line of the BTS Skytrain system. The easiest entry point is Siam station, right on top of Siam Square and in the middle of the Siam area. It acts as the exchange station between the lines, so expect a lot of commuters during rush hour. The Sukhumvit Line continues east and passes Chit Lom station, which is close to Ratchaprasong, and Phloen Chit which serves the road of the same name. One stop west of Siam on the Silom Line is National Stadium, a handy stop that's close to MBK Center, Siam Discovery, Jim Thompson's House and the cheap guest houses at Soi Kasemsan 1.

The Sukhumvit Line and the Silom Line provide direct connections with the districts of the same name. There is also a direct connection with Phahonyothin and the Chatuchak Weekend Market if you take the Sukhimvit Line to the north. If you're coming from Rattanakosin or Khao San Road, you'll first need to take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn pier. From there, continue your way along the Silom Line to Siam station. The whole ride takes around 40 minutes (but is easier than trying to find the right bus!)

The quickest way to get to Siam from Suvarnabhumi Airport is by Airport Rail Link. Take the City Line to Phaya Thai station, a ride that takes 26 minutes. Then switch onto the BTS Sukhumvit Line towards Bearing and ride it to Siam station. As the systems are not integrated, you will have to buy a new ticket at Phaya Thai station.

By boat
If you're staying at Khao San Road, the Saen Saep Express Boat is your best bet to get to Siam Square. It is only a short walk to the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin, where you can get on the boat. The service operates every day from 05:30 to 20:30. The Golden Mount Line brings you to Sapan Hua Chang pier for Siam Square, and terminates at Pratunam pier (for Ratchaprasong intersection). You can switch to the NIDA Line at Pratunam pier, which brings you to Chitlom, Wireless and on to Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard pier at the Golden Mount to Sapan Hua Chang takes about 25 minutes and costs around 9 baht.

By bus
Siam Square is among the most congested districts of Bangkok. Combine that with the complexity of the bus system, and it's obvious that you're better off using other ways of transport. However, if you're coming from or going to the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin, the bus is the only way to get a direct connection. Bus 15 starts at Phra Athit Road and then drives over Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang Road before arriving at MBK Center, Siam Square and Ratchaprasong intersection. This bus then continues to Silom Road, so take it in the other direction if you're coming from there.

An alternative is bus 47, which starts at Rama IV Road in Khlong Toei and then heads to Silom and over Phaya Thai Road. Get off at MBK Center. You can also take this bus from Tha Chang in Rattanakosin (near the Grand Palace) from which it goes through Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang Road. Get out at MBK Center as this bus won't continue its way further along Siam Square.

There is no reasonable bus connection from Suvarnabhumi Airport. You can take bus 552 to On Nut BTS station in Sukhumvit and continue with the Skytrain. It's a long bus ride and depending on traffic it could take 1-2 hours.

See

Siam Square
Siam Square is the place to shop in Bangkok, especially if you're looking for big shopping malls and small designer boutiques. The obvious point of entry is Siam BTS station, which is surrounded by Siam Center, Siam Discovery and Siam Paragon. At walking distance from Siam Square is MBK Center. With the exception of Siam Paragon, these malls are somewhat dated, but among the most popular as they are the most affordable. At least make a head for MBK, just to see where the local youth do their shopping.

Ratchaprasong
Heading east is Ratchaprasong, an intersection filled with luxurious malls that cater to a more upmarket audience. CentralWorld, while built in 2002, was expanded in 2006 topping its nearby rival Siam Paragon as the largest shopping complex in Thailand (and among the largest in the world). Surrounding CentralWorld are the Gaysorn, Isetan, Narai Phand, Peninsula Plaza, ZEN, and others, which together make the largest shopping promenade in Bangkok. Bring a well-filled wallet though.

Eat
For Thai food with a twist, the hip district of Siam Square is the best place to go hunting. The shopping malls generally have a wide choice of chain stores where you can eat for mid-range prices. If you're on a budget, every mall that takes itself seriously at least has one food court. Soi Ton Son, a sidestreet of Phloen Chit Road, is known as Bangkok's Little Italy with plenty of nice Italian restaurants. The best are both very good and reasonably priced (at least by Western standards).

Food courts
If you want cheap food and air conditioning, head into the upper-floor food court of any mall or department store. Food courts come in many varieties, from basic snack places to eclectic cuisine. Most food courts use some variation of a coupon system; unused coupons are always refunded. Some of the better ones include:

Coffee
Branches of Starbucks and the more local Black Canyon Coffee can be found in all the malls and even at the largest BTS stations.

Bars
Siam Square is not that well known for its nightlife, as shops tend to close about 22:00 and the area gets pretty silent afterwards. Most visitors head off to Sukhumvit or Silom, but Siam Square does have some relaxing bars on offer.

In the winter time (recursively defined in Thailand as "beer garden season"), popular beer gardens pop up in front of CentralWorld, serving up cold beer, hot food and loud Thai pop.

Nightclubs
There are a couple of after hours clubs in Rong Muang Soi 1, in the backstreets of Siam Square (access via Rong Muang Soi 5, off Rama I Road):

Sleep
Accommodation in almost all price ranges can be found within this area. Hotels in the Hualamphong Train Station area are covered in Yaowarat and Phahurat.

Soi Kasemsan 1
Just at the foot of the National Stadium station, directly across from the stadium itself, is Soi Kasemsan 1, a convenient and quiet lane filled with budget hotels. Most of the guest houses are along the left side of the street as you walk in from Rama I Road. The soi is close to Siam Square, and Jim Thompson's House is only one block away.

Go next

 * Pratunam is 600 metres north of Ratchaprasong intersection with plenty of shopping centres, malls and markets.
 * The shopping spree also continues east, when Phloen Chit Road changes its name into Sukhumvit Road.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Bangkok/Siam Square


text:
Bangkok/Silom

Silom (Thai: สีลม) is the closest Bangkok gets to Wall Street, with glistening skyscrapers all boasting the names of financial institutions. However, the character of the area changes after nightfall: the small sois between Silom Road and Surawong Road come alive with people who are out for a good time, and Patpong's well-known "red light" district is often a sought-out location. The former trade quarter Bang Rak (บางรัก) is also included here and is home to many of Bangkok's top luxury hotels, such as the Oriental.

Understand

In the 19th century, daily life in Bangkok mostly took place on and around the canals. Silom was rural farmland with rice fields, orchards, and windmills criss-crossed by canals. During this era, most urban life happened on the riverside, which was a busy trading quarter welcoming European merchant ships and envoys. This area, known as Bang Rak, still has a kind of European atmosphere with many exclusive colonial-style hotels and old abandoned warehouses. Silom ("windmills" in Thai) has changed immensely with in modern times. Charoen Krung Road (New Road) was the first paved road in Bangkok, built in 1861 during the reign of King Rama IV at the request of foreign consuls who wanted to ride their horses and carriages. Over time, most of the canals have disappeared and turned into roads. With the rise of Thailand as an industrialised economy, Silom turned into Thailand's major financial centre filled with banking institutions, corporate high-rises and condominiums. Many banks, insurance companies, audit and law firms have congregated along Sathorn Rd (ถนนสาทร) as well. The district's importance as a business centre has been acknowledged by the construction of the Skytrain in 2013 and the metro line right through the district. Their construction has not helped much as traffic congestion continues to be a serious problem in the area. Days, there's not that much to do here, except when white collar workers flock onto the streets for lunch. The fusion of peoples make this a great place for people-watching. Cigar-smoking Thai business men walk through masses of well-dressed secretaries, office workers, and Western expatriates. Many Indians and Muslims have taken up residence around the intersection with Charoen Krung Road.

At night, Silom turns into the place to be. It is a vibrant neighbourhood that is actually a little hard to describe because it becomes one of Bangkok's most cosmopolitan streets— as well as one of the sleaziest. Soi Patpong is the hedonistic playground all of Bangkok is generally stereotyped for, but it actually consists of just two small sois. The so-called "go-go bars" might as well be called "takeaway brothels", but a trip to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to this surreal environment. But if you fancy something more upmarket and refined, Silom is also the place to be. Some of the expensive hotels in the area cater to rich visitors who like to talk business over a glass of fine wine. Having a cocktail at the top of the Banyan Tree Building or the State Tower gives some of the best views in Southeast Asia.

Orientation is fairly easy as most of the magic happens at Silom Road, especially where it intersects with Rama IV Road. The area starts to liven up again when you get closer to the river in the area known as Bang Rak. Parallel to Silom Road lies Sathorn Road to the south and Surawong Road to the north.

With the reinvigoration of Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road as creative and tourism hub with the addition of Mahankorn Pavilion and Cube, W Hotel, the reinvention of Empire Tower, the area around the Chong Nonsi BTS and BRT Station is increasingly known as SOLU, abbreviated from South of Lumphini.

Skytrain
Silom Road and Sathorn Road can handily be reached using the BTS Skytrain's Silom Line. BTS station Sala Daeng is right in the middle of the action, close to pretty much all party venues. At the other side is Saphan Taksin station, which is close to Bang Rak's riverside hotels. Surasak and Chong Nonsi fill up the area in between.

There is a direct connection with Siam Square, which takes about five minutes, but if you're coming from another district, traveling will be more complex. From Sukhumvit, you'll need to take the Skytrain to Siam station and transfer onto the Silom Line. The same goes if you're coming from Phahonyothin.

Metro
The MRT metro system is a good way to reach Silom from Yaowarat and Phahurat, Sukhumvit and Ratchadaphisek. The central stop is MRT station Si Lom, that lies at the entrance of Lumphini Park. It can be used as an interchange station with Sala Daeng BTS station. Other stops include Lumphini, Sam Yan and Hua Lamphong. The metro ride from Sukhumvit or Hualamphong Train Station takes about 5 minutes, while the ride from Ratchadaphisek takes 5-15 minutes. Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of 16-41 baht.

By boat
If you're coming from Rattanakosin, Khao San Road or some areas of Yaowarat and Phahurat, the fastest way to reach Silom is by Chao Phraya Express Boat. A single trip from Chang Pier in Rattanakosin to Sathorn takes about 25 minutes and costs around 18 baht. From here, you can transfer onto the Skytrain's Silom Line and get to many destinations in Silom.

The river boat is the best way to get to and around the Bang Rak area. Si Phraya in the north of Bang Rak and Sathorn in the south are served by fast yellow flag boats. Oriental is the most centrally located, but is only served by orange-flag and no-flag lines. Wat Muang Kae is slightly north of Oriental, but is kind of a sleepy pier only served by no-flag lines.

If you happen to be in Thonburi (the area around Khlong San), you can easily take a ferry across the river. There are ferries from Klongsan to Si Phraya, from Wat Suwan to Oriental and from Sathorn across the river to the pier of the same name. Every 15 minutes a ferry leaves and won't cost you more than a mere 3 baht.

By bus
Due to heavy congestion and the complexity of the bus system, getting to Silom by bus can only be advised if you have a lot of time or are on a stringent budget. Being a part of Bangkok's downtown, many lines run through Silom, but finding the right one is a challenge. Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 15 comes from Phra Athit Road and then passes Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), moves along Lan Luang Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang to Siam Square. From there, it continues along Ratchadamri Road and then goes all the way over Silom Road to Charoen Krung Road, the Krung Thep Bridge and The Mall Tha Phra in Thonburi.

From Yaowarat, catch bus 4 from Charoen Krung Road which goes along Rama IV Road, passing Hualamphong Train Station and the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm before reaching the intersection with Silom Road. In the opposite direction, this bus will skip Charoen Krung Road, passing Yaowarat Road instead (which is a one-way traffic road).

The first line of the new Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system starts at the intersection of Sathorn Road and Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road. There is a pedestrian walkway from Chong Nonsi BTS station to Sathorn BRT station, the first stop. From there, the line heads south along Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road, then follows Rama III Road along the Chao Phraya River, with Ratchaphruek in Thonburi its final destination. As a commuter line, it is not of much use for foreign visitors, unless you're going to Mambo Cabaret, Tawandang Microbrewery or a distant hotel.

By train
Hualamphong Train Station, whilst over the edge in Yaowarat and Phahurat, is very easy to reach from elsewhere in the district. Just take the metro to Hua Lamphong station and the station will be in front of you. From there you can get a train to anywhere on the Thai train system, like Ayutthaya or Chiang Mai.

See
Traditional sightseeing attractions are rather rare on the ground in Silom. A popular attraction is to have a drink on one of the rooftop bars with an amazing view over Bangkok's skyline. You could also head for Lumphini Park or visit one of the twice-daily shows at the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm.

Skyline

While Silom's skyline doesn't match Hong Kong's or New York's, the views are still worth it. A part of Bangkok's skyline, most of Silom's towers are financial institutions and office buildings. The best way to enjoy it is by taking a trip up the Banyan Tree Hotel or the State Tower. The 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel has the Vertigo and Moon Bar, where you can dine or have a beer with one of the most spectacular views of Southeast Asia. Sirocco and Moon Bar on the State Tower is even a few metres higher up than Vertigo—making it the world's tallest rooftop bar/restaurant. Due to its slightly off-centre location, the views are arguably not quite as stunning, although it gives a great view of the Chao Phraya River. See the Drink section for more information about these rooftop bars.

Most of Silom's buildings are office buildings not meant to be visited. Heading out to take a look at these office buildings can only be recommended for those having a deeper interest in modern architecture and/or the financial sector. Some notable office buildings that dominate the skyline include the CP Tower, Empire Tower, ITF Tower and the United Center Building, but the Robot Building has to be the quirkiest of them all.

Houses of worship
Silom lacks the impressive overload of Buddhist temples common in other districts. There are some interesting ones, but they are no must-visit by any means. Due to the presence of the historic trade quarter, there are some European-style churches and old shophouses that can be visited. Also, the current Hindu and Muslim population has chipped in with the most important Hindu temple of Thailand on Silom Road and several mosques.

Museums and art galleries

Do
Due to many rich business travellers visiting Silom, it is an excellent destination for high-class spas. Particularly well-regarded spas include Devarana Spa (at the Dusit Thani Hotel), and the eponymous operations at Banyan Tree and the legendary Oriental — the last of these probably being the most expensive in town, offering (among other things) a six-hour Oriental Romance package for two costing a whopping 16,000 baht.

Buy
At first, shopping around Silom might feel a little lacklustre compared to Siam Square. Its department stores and malls are bland at best, but if you're in need of something, they are not short on supply. If you're looking for antiques, arts, handicrafts, silk, and suits, however, Silom is the place to be. Especially the Bang Rak area is good, as that's where the rich potential buyers stay in expensive riverside hotels. Hundreds of jewellery and silver stores are lined up along Charoen Krung Road.

Eat
Fancy restaurants, cafés, noodle shops and international chain stores line the streets around Silom Road.

Budget
As Silom is a popular neighborhood with the locals, there are enough places for cheap meals. For authentic Japanese food at reasonable prices, pop into one of the many eateries on Soi Thaniya. The Lalai Sap Market has some affordable seafood stalls (see Buy).

Bang Rak defines the melting pot of Bangkok's cuisine. There are various ethnic eateries in that area, including Thai, Chinese, Indian and Muslim cuisines. But you can also find plenty of noodle shops, stewed pork with rice (ข้าวขาหมู) stalls and roasted duck with rice (ข้าวหน้าเป็ด) eateries. As this is a poorer neighborhood, dishes are served for no more than 80 baht.

Splurge
The Chao Phraya riverside hotels (see Sleep) have the usual splurge restaurants with overpriced menus, although The Oriental's dinner buffet (2,000+ baht) is acclaimed.

Alcohol
There's more to Silom's nightlife than just Patpong, but can a visitor say they've been to Bangkok without at least a quick peek into the 'Pong?

Soi Patpong
You might want to take a deep breath and down a few shots before heading into the insanity of Patpong (พัฒน์พงษ์), which in fact consists only of two small sois (Patpong 1 and Patpong 2). It's a short walk from BTS Sala Daeng station, deserted by day but jam-packed and overflowing in all directions by night. The throngs of middle age tourists shopping for sarongs and chopsticks just makes the sex shows going on in every open door seem that much more surreal.

Prepare to be harassed by touts armed with laminated 'menus' of acts you can order up. If you follow the touts, you might end up spending a ton of money on drinks to watch sad looking girls perform unhygienic acts with various garden-party accessories (lawn darts, ping pongs, etc.) in one of the upstairs bars. While seemingly cheap at first, be prepared to pay thousands of bahts when the girls flock to you with drinks in their hands, as you'd have to pay for them. The bill comes to you within minutes and the dispute could become violent.

If you instead try one of the bars on the lower level, you can safely watch girls dancing on stage, but will occasionally be asked by one of the girls if you could buy her a drink. She will get upwards of 50% of the drink price as a bonus and will join you at your table for some conversation in exchange. As a rule of thumb, only trust bars that already have a fair number of customers; a drink should not cost more than 130 baht or so. All the go-go bars in Patpong close by 01:00.

Patpong has changed remarkably over the years. While it used to be just a sleazy den of go-go bars, nowadays a lot of visitors come to the area just to see what the fuss is about. It is not unusual to see families with children walk through the area in the early evening. The locals found a way to make money from this new group of curious tourists: an enormous night market stocked with overpriced souvenirs that takes up the whole road and even spills over to the surrounding area (including Silom Road). See the Buy section for more information on the night market.

Soi Thaniya
Soi Thaniya is Patpong for the Japanese; you might be excused for thinking you've ended up in Shinjuku when you see the plethora of signs in Japanese and kimono-clad girls beckoning you in. Most bars and clubs are off-limits to Westerners (except for the occasional British pub), but some of the restaurants aren't bad for Japanese food and some beer or sake to wash it down.

Silom Soi 2 and 4
Sois 2 and 4 are the centre of gay nightlife in Bangkok, although these days Soi 4 packs in a mixed crowd with plenty of bars that aren't gay by any stretch of the imagination. On weekends Soi 4 is cordoned off and a valid ID is (theoretically) required to enter. Across Surawong Road is Soi Twilight, Bangkok's largest gay go-go bar strip.

Superhip
Note that fairly strictly applied dress codes apply to all of the following, so no flip-flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts.

Sleep
Most of the hotels in Silom are four- or five-star hotels catering to business travellers. Most splurge hotels can be found along Silom Road and Sathorn Road. The Bang Rak area at the Chao Phraya River has some of the world's best hotels, including Mandarin Oriental and Shangri-La (another contender for this title is The Peninsula, right at the other side of the river in Thonburi).

Due to high property values, dorm rooms, which are pretty much unheard of elsewhere in Thailand, are becoming the norm here for budget travellers. Ngam Duphli Road used to be the heart of Bangkok's backpacker scene, and was a lively area with dozens of guest houses. As Khao San Road took over, this road has gone significantly downhill and most guest houses there have turned creaky and dusty.

Connect
Finding Wi-Fi in Silom is just as easy as finding a girl in Patpong. Nearly every hotel has free Wi-Fi for their customers (except, perversely, some of the more expensive ones, where you have to pay extra), or available for everyone in the lobby. Many of them also have Internet terminals available. If you're just visiting, many cafés and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi, such as the Bonita Cafe or Molly Malone's.

Go next

 * The superhip nightlife continues in Sukhumvit with trendy clubs and restaurants like Bed Supperclub and Long Table.
 * If you like the go-go bar scene at Patpong, you might want to check out Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment Plaza in Sukhumvit or the enormous "massage parlours" of Ratchadaphisek.
 * River City, just across the border in Yaowarat, is a colonial-style antiques mall similar to those found in Bang Rak.

title: Bangkok/Silom


text:
Bangkok/Sukhumvit

Sukhumvit (Thai: สุขุมวิท) is a high-end area in Bangkok with fancy condominiums, hotels, restaurants, bars and clubs. It has attracted affluent Thais and expats from all over the world. Following the road south east, the area changes its character and becomes a residential neighbourhood similar to other suburban areas in Bangkok.

Understand
Sukhumvit Road is not only one of the longest roads in Thailand, but one of the longest roads in the world. Towards the west end it changes name to Phloen Chit Road and Rama I Road as it enters the Siam Square area, but to the east it runs most of the way to the Cambodian border. The sois are numbered from west to east, with odd numbers north and even numbers south of Sukhumvit Road. The sois on the north and south sides of Sukhumvit don't line up; for example, Soi 33 is opposite Soi 24. Confusing is that these sois also have names of their own (for example, Soi 55 is better known as Soi Thong Lo) and these sois can also have sois of their own (such as Thong Lo Soi 1).

Looking at the high-rise apartment buildings, the Skytrain and the perennial traffic jam on Sukhumvit Road, it is hard to believe that this area used to consist of rice fields until World War II. After the war, this area became developed with large contemporary villas catering to the upper class. As property values kept rising, developers have been buying more and more land and cashed them in by constructing big apartment high-rises. The construction of the BTS Skytrain in 1999, covering most of Sukhumvit Road, has increased the popularity of this district even more.

The lower-numbered sois (roughly between Soi 1 and 63) are a popular residential area for western expatriates and affluent Thais. It is densely packed with shopping centres, restaurants and hotels. The fleshpots of Nana Entertainment Plaza (in Soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (between Soi 21 and 23) are also in this area, as are plenty of more (and less) salubrious bars. Also, the pavement of Sukhumvit itself has become a huge market carrying everything from luggage to fake Rolex watches, and after midnight they turn into roadside bars and pubs. Sukhumvit offers the best dining in Bangkok, from five-star dining to street stands, the variety of choices and tastes are almost overwhelming. Japanese nationals can be found in the area Soi 21 and upwards, but most tend to congregate around Soi 55. Indians have settled around Soi 12, while Arabs are grouped at Soi 3/1, which informally is known as Soi Arab. After Soi 63, Thais take over again, though this might change when the Skytrain extension is completed in late 2011.

South of Sukhumvit's sois lies Khlong Toei, known to foreigners for Thai Port FC and for the Khlong Toei Market. Khlong Toei is a borough, a market and a port, all named after the canal that flows through the area. It means "canal of pandan" as that plant used to grow along the southern bank of the canal. A large part of it was filled up to make way for Rama IV Road in 1947. South (and under) the Chaloem Maha Nakhon Expressway are the infamous Khlong Toei slums, generally unexplored by even the most adventurous travellers. At the banks of the Chao Phraya river is the Khlong Toei Port, which has a history dating back to the ninth century, when it connected Bangkok with the cities upstream the river. Since 1981, it has lost most of its economic relevance when the larger Laem Chabang Port near Pattaya took over business.

Skytrain
The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs, as the name suggests, over Sukhumvit Road from west to east. Sukhumvit can directly be reached by Skytrain from Siam Square or Phahonyothin. The journey from Mo Chit takes about 25 minutes to reach Asok station, while from Siam station takes about 10 minutes. If you're coming from Silom, you'll need to take the Silom Line north and change onto the Sukhumvit Line at Siam station. It takes about 20 minutes for a ride from Saphan Taksin station to reach Asok station, including the transfer at Siam. Trains leave every 5–10 minutes for a fare of about 15-40 baht.

The most important BTS stations are (from west to east) Nana, Asok, Phrom Phong, Thong Lo, Ekkamai, Phra Khanong, On Nut, Udom Suk, Bang Na and Bearing. Each station serves the neighbourhood of the same name. Asok is the most convenient station as it is in the centre of Sukhumvit and has a direct transfer with Bangkok's MRT metro system. In the following years, the Sukhumvit Line will be extended southwards to Samut Prakan and eastwards to Suvarnabhumi Airport's proposed second terminal. Samrong, the first station in Samut Prakan, opened in April 2017.

Metro
If you're coming from Silom or Ratchadaphisek, you can directly reach Sukhumvit by Bangkok's MRT metro system. The most convenient station is Sukhumvit, which is right in the middle of the district and you can transfer onto the BTS Sukhumvit Line. The other stations in the district are Khlong Toei and QSNCC. The metro ride from Silom takes about 10 minutes, while the ride from Ratchadaphisek takes about 15 minutes. Trains leave every 5–10 minutes for a fare of about 15-40 baht.

Airport Rail Link
The Airport Rail Link provides a direct connection between Suvarnabhumi Airport and Phaya Thai station, a ride that takes 26 minutes. At Phaya Thai, you have to switch onto the BTS Skytrain. As the systems are not integrated, you will have to buy a new ticket. Take a train in the direction of Bearing and get out at the station of your choice — Nana and Asok are the most widely used stations.

By boat
The Saen Saep Express Boat service is a rough, but entertaining way of getting in and around Sukhumvit. The Saen Saeb canal forms the northern boundary of Sukhumvit's sois and is a cheap alternative means of escaping the traffic jams if you're coming from Khao San Road, the eastern side of Rattanakosin or Ramkhamhaeng.

There are two lines: The Golden Mount Line runs from Panfa Leelard near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin east to Pratunam near Ratchaprasong intersection. The NIDA Line runs from Pratunam all the way northeast along Ramkhamhaeng Road to Wat Sriboonreung. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Nana Nua takes about 35 minutes and costs 13 baht. You must switch boats at Pratunam. Other stops along Sukhumvit's northern sois (from west to east) are Nana Chard, Asoke-Petchaburi, Prasanmit, Italthai, Wat Mai Chonglom, Baan Don Mosque, Soi Thonglor, Charn Issara and Vijit School.

If you're coming from the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin, there are two ways to get into Sukhumvit. The fastest way is to take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn pier in Silom. From there, continue your way north using the BTS Skytrain Silom Line. You'll need to switch trains at Siam BTS station and continue your way east onto the Sukhumvit Line. The whole journey from Rattanakosin takes about 40 minutes. Alternatively walk for about 30 minutes, or a 5 minute taxi journey, to Panfa Leelard pier and continue your journey using the Saen Saep Express Boat.

By bus
This first tip on bus travel is one to remember: do not do it! Sukhumvit Road is probably the most congested road of Bangkok and traffic jams exist the whole day until late in the evening. Also, it is difficult to find out which bus goes where or where to get out. Better take the Skytrain, metro or express boat, even if it costs a little more.

If you insist, there are many bus routes through the Sukhumvit area. The most important one is ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25, which starts far southeast of Sukhumvit Road. From there, it goes all the way northwest along Sukhumvit Road and then rides over Ratchadamri Road and Rama IV Road to Silom. It then continues its way to Hualamphong Train Station, through either Charoen Krung Road or Yaowarat Road (depending on direction) and finally on to Tha Chang in Rattanakosin (for the Grand Palace).

From Suvarnabhumi Airport, you can take bus AE3 for 150 baht to Sukhumvit. It runs up the Bang Na-Trat Expressway and along Sukhumvit all the way up to Siam Square. It then loops back around to Nana and then back out to the airport. Another option is bus 552, which heads on to On Nut, where you can continue your way with the Skytrain. There are many stops and depending on traffic the ride can take from 1 to 2 hours.

Parks

Museums

Massage and spas
Focus on yourself and get pampered at one of the many massage establishments around Sukhumvit. If you want a more upmarket experience, you could head for a spa. Some of the better ones include:

Learn
If you are one of the more sporty types who like to keep active on your vacation, the national sport of Muay Thai or Thai Boxing is a great way to stay in shape. Other learning activities include cooking and meditating.

Buy
As Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok's main thoroughfares, the long road is lined with shops, boutiques and modern shopping plazas ranging from Soi 3 (Soi Nana Nuea) up to Soi 63 (Soi Ekkamai). Most shops and restaurants are concentrated between Soi 3 and Soi 21 (Asok Rd) and along shortcuts between Asok and Ekkamai.

Markets
The pavement of Sukhumvit Rd was for years cramped with endless roadside stalls offering many of the same items as the Patpong Night Market, such as souvenirs, accessories, knock-off clothes, pornographic DVDs, pirated films and other junk with prices somewhat better than in Patpong. However, in 2016 city officials started enforcing old regulations prohibiting street vending and only few vendors renting space at shopfronts remain. Haggling is generally expected, but it'll only save you a few more baht. This change has made the sidewalk much easier to use even with a stroller. However, Thailand is infamous for bouts of enforcement which do not last so it remains to be seen if the stalls return making the section from Soi 3 to Soi 15 tough going, again.

Malls and department stores

There are plenty of malls and department stores throughout Sukhumvit Road. The best ones are Emporium and Terminal 21, but you might as well hop on the Skytrain to Siam Square. At Thong Lo, all things are cool, be it clothing, gadgets or interior design. It could be called the "Siam Square of Sukhumvit" with its hip fashion boutiques, trendy designer stores and overall swanky appearance.

Tailors
If you know where to go, Sukhumvit offers some of the best bespoke tailoring in Bangkok. Never go to custom tailor shops that get your suits and shirts ready in 24 hours or less. If you want good quality, go to a reliable tailor which will ask for two to five sittings. The entire process will take about a week. For more information on bespoke tailoring, see the Buy section of the main Bangkok article.

 * The changing room walls are filled with business cards of customers over the years: American embassy employees from across Asia are common. The back wall also has photos of Jesse, the owner, with George H. Bush who stopped by.
 * The changing room walls are filled with business cards of customers over the years: American embassy employees from across Asia are common. The back wall also has photos of Jesse, the owner, with George H. Bush who stopped by.
 * The changing room walls are filled with business cards of customers over the years: American embassy employees from across Asia are common. The back wall also has photos of Jesse, the owner, with George H. Bush who stopped by.
 * The changing room walls are filled with business cards of customers over the years: American embassy employees from across Asia are common. The back wall also has photos of Jesse, the owner, with George H. Bush who stopped by.

Book stores
Sukhumvit has a number of specialty stores frequented by tourists.

Eat
There is a huge selection of places to eat in and around Sukhumvit and its side sois, although prices tend to be on the high side by Thai standards. With practically every cuisine in the world represented, this is the place to break your pad thai diet and sample some of the best Japanese, Lebanese or Indian food you will ever eat.

Budget
While not as much an institution as in Siam Square, the food courts in any mall or department store are a good option if you're trying to survive Sukhumvit on budget and want air-conditioning. Just like in Siam Square, food courts come in many varieties, from basic snack places to more upscale dining. The Emporium Mall, Ploenchit Center and Robinson all have decent food courts (see Buy). Most food courts use some variation of a coupon system; unused coupons are always refunded.

There are some cheapie sois with excellent street food if you know where to go:

Budget restaurants are generally hard to find, but the following are favorites among Bangkok's large expat population:

Fusion
Thai food with a modern twist has become particularly popular the last years. Fusion restaurants are centred around the H1 complex on Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo).

Asian
Finding your way around the mindblowing variety in Sukhumvit might feel a bit daunting at first. One way to approach the area is to visit its ethnic food neighbourhoods. Little Japan is located near Sukhumvit Soi 33 and across the street at Sukhumvit Soi 24, with Phrom Phong BTS station straddling the two. There is also a smaller concentration of Japanese restaurants along Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo), notably the Nihonmura ("Japan Village") in Thong Lo Soi 13.

Indian and Middle Eastern
Soi 3 and Soi 3/1, a short walk from Nana BTS station, are known as Soi Arab for the heavy concentration of Middle Eastern businesses in the area; in some spots you will see more signs in Arabic than in Thai! Thanks to a demanding clientele and heavy competition, the food here is some of the best this side of Lebanon.

Drink
The Sukhumvit area contains more watering holes than can easily be counted, and touts are not as big of a problem here as in Patpong. However, the scene is oriented towards Western ex-pats and wealthy high-society Thais, for more of a local ambience (and local prices) head a bit north to Ratchadaphisek instead.

Go-go and beer bars
Soi Cowboy (off Asok Road) and Nana Entertainment Plaza (Soi 4) are packed full of go-go bars much like those in Patpong. Soi 33 is packed with hostess bars, which are more upscale than the Soi Cowboy and Nana Plaza bars and do not feature go-go dancing. Since the establishments are jammed side by side on the streets (or along the interior courtyard, in Nana Plaza), it's easy to go go-go bar hopping: they all come in different sizes, music, lighting and dancer physiques. You'll probably find one to fit your preferences.

While the places all operate with more or less the same concept, the following have been around for a while and are unlikely to rip you off:

Bars and pubs
Looking for a place to watch your favorite sport on the big screen? Sukhumvit from Soi 2 to 33 offers plenty of choices. The stereotypic bars here are British pubs with rugby on, selling lots of beer and pub grub (be it grill menus or other simple snacks). The workers are young Thai hostesses in tight outfits who serve Western ex-pats that generally are older than 40.

Wine bars
With a growing interest in foreign as well as local wines, there is a growing number of wine bars in Bangkok and many of these are in the Sukhumvit area. Most of these are trendy establishments with selections of exclusive French, Italian, Spanish and other international wines.

Superhip

Soi 11 and 23 have some of the trendiest clubs in town. These venues are all about seeing and being seen, popular among the well-to-do Thai and expat crowd. Soi 55 (Thong Lo) and Soi 63 (Ekkamai) also have their fair share of places to spend the night, but these are somewhat more modest and have more in common with traditional bars.

Fairly strictly applied dress codes apply to the following listings, so no flip-flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts. Always bring your passport as club owners must (and will) check it upon entry.

Sleep
Property values in Sukhumvit are among the highest in Bangkok, and accommodation is priced to match. There are plenty of four and five-star hotels that cater to those with a lot of money (including business travellers). Guest houses à la Khao San Road are hard to find, and will set you back at least twice as much.

Another market is the sex industry. Some hotels nearby Nana Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy offer "short time" stays. This short term option is cheaper, but can only be used for a couple of hours. It is meant for sex tourists and locals who want to spend a couple of hours with their "date". These hotels generally are quite cheap, but they can feel seedy and are not recommended for overnight stays.

Many other hotels explicitly hang up signs banning sex tourists; many of these don't allow you to bring in any Thai lady (which can lead to an awkward situation if you just want to bring a friend or your Thai girlfriend), while others will allow them only if they are present with an ID card at the time of initial registration.

Mid-range

There is plenty of good quality, mid-range accommodation on Sukhumvit. It is possible to book on a weekly basis and get a large discount at many places.

Splurge
Several of Bangkok's luxury hotels are concentrated on and near Sukhumvit. To splurge in Bangkok is cheaper than you initially think. Your options include:

Connect
Sukhumvit is packed with Internet cafés, pubs and bars offering free Wi-Fi and computer access at rates as low as 0.5 baht/minute. Trying to print something will probably shed a whole new light on your experience. Be wary of key loggers which reputedly are epidemic at Thai Internet cafés. There have also been cases where memory cards get infected with a virus when plugged into an Internet café computer.

Go next

 * If you came here for Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment Plaza, Soi Patpong in Silom offers more of the same. If you just came out of Long Table and want to continue your night the superhip way, Silom is also the way to go.
 * Unlike most foreign travellers, the locals tend to go out in Ratchadaphisek. You might want to check out Royal City Avenue (often abbreviated as RCA), an entertainment paradise with bars, clubs and theatres, or one of Ratchada's popular sois.
 * Quite similar to Sukhumvit and right next to it is Siam Square, Bangkok's hippest shopping and entertainment district. It is only 10 minutes away by Skytrain.
 * Going east on Sukhumvit Road (Hwy 3) will take you across the town border to Samut Prakan with sights like Erawan Museum and Ancient Siam only 100 m off the highway. If you push onward you will end up in Pattaya and finally in Trat near the border of Cambodia.

title: Bangkok/Sukhumvit


text:
Bangkok/Thonburi

Thonburi (Thai: ธนบุรี) is a vast district that consists of the entire west bank of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok. After the sack of Ayutthaya in 1767, General Phraya Taksin made Thonburi the new capital of Siam for a brief period of time. It is hard to believe this was once the country's capital, as the district is devoid of the grand structures seen in other former capitals. In fact, Thonburi stayed relatively isolated from Bangkok proper, and for centuries was an agricultural land filled with canals and fruit orchards. While Thonburi has quickly developed in recent decades, most visitors still come here for the cool and peaceful atmosphere. The traditional Thai way of life on the canals still exists here, as do the floating vendors and orchard farms.

Understand

"Bangkok" used to refer to a village in the area that today roughly corresponds to the neighbourhoods of Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai. At that time, the Chao Phraya River had a completely different course than it does today. The Chao Phraya had a horseshoe shape that is similar to the current course of the Bangkok Noi and Bangkok Yai canals. One theory on the origin of the name is that Bangkok came from "Bang Ko", which means "island village" in Thai, referring to the village that was almost completely surrounded by the Chao Phraya River. Bangkok was the first part of Thonburi to be settled, as its location was a convenient storage point for trade ships that sailed north towards Ayutthaya. The horseshoe shape of the Chao Phraya River slowed down trading ships, and in 1542 a small canal was dug across the base of the meander to shorten sailing time. The strength of the current eroded the canal's banks, and over time the new canal became the main course of the river. Bangkok was on the east bank of the old course of the river, but on the west bank of the new course.

As sailing times quickened, Bangkok became a tax collection port and customs office for foreign traders sailing to Ayutthaya. In 1665, King Narai the Great ordered the construction of Vichaiyen Fort near the mouth of the Bangkok Yai canal to protect Ayutthaya from foreign invasions. This fort is now known as the Vichaiprasit Fort and can still be seen from the Chao Phraya Express Boat today. With it, the village got the status of fortified city and was renamed Thonburi. When the city of Ayutthaya was burnt to the ground by Burmese armies in 1767, General Taksin was in charge of the resistance. A capable military leader, he conquered back Siam within a year and took hold of large parts of Southeast Asia in the following decade. He became King of Siam and established Thonburi as the new capital of the country. He created his palace close to the fort, while the residence of General Phraya Chakri (who would later become King Rama I) was near the current location of Wat Rakhang.

In 1779, King Taksin had proclaimed himself a sotapanna (or divine figure), striking against the will of the powerful Buddhist monkhood. The state was in economic turmoil, there was rampant corruption and famine struck the country. King Taksin tried to maintain order with harsh punishment and purges. When General Phraya Chakri was fighting out a war with Cambodia, a rebellion took hold of Thonburi, forcing King Taksin to step down. Shortly after, he was secretly executed. When General Phraya Chakri returned, he was offered the throne and became King Rama I, the first King of the Chakri dynasty. He made Rattanakosin the new capital of Siam, as he believed that city would be easier to defend against foreign invasions. This was the end of a brief era now known as the Thonburi Period. It wasn't the end of "Bangkok"—foreigners never adapted to the changes and kept using the name, incorrectly including the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River.

Thonburi stayed relatively undeveloped compared to its neighbour across the river. The economy was mostly agriculture-based with fruit orchards criss-crossed by canals. Many durian species have originated in Thonburi, including mon thong, chanee and kan yao. Most of the fruit orchards have disappeared as Thonburi became more developed. It wasn't until 1932 that Thonburi became physically linked to the Rattanakosin side with the construction of the Memorial Bridge. Thonburi's distinct identity only held out for forty more years until 1971, when it was incorporated into the city of Krung Thep (Bangkok).

Get in
Thonburi spans a large area, so your way in will be very dependent on where you want to go. Historically, it has been quite underserved by public transport, but both Skytrain and the MRT have now crossed the river.

By boat

The easiest way to get into Thonburi is by boat. The Chao Phraya Express Boat goes up and down the river for flat 15 baht, aim for the "orange flag" boats since they stops at basically all piers of interest. The less frequent "blue flag" tourist boats operate on basically the same route but charge 30 baht, which gets you recorded commentary and slightly more comfortable seating. Both can be boarded at the Central (CEN) pier next to Skytrain Saphan Taksin station. See Bangkok for the full flag decoder ring.

Sometimes cashiers want you to buy the ticket before embarking the boat, but it is allowed to buy tickets on board. If going north from Sathorn pier (from Silom), the first pier on the Thonburi side is Wang Lang. It's the easiest point of entry as all lines stop there and the Wang Lang area is one of the more interesting ones in Thonburi. If you're heading south from Phra Arthit pier (from Khao San Road), Wang Lang is the second pier on the Thonburi side. When you're heading for the Royal Barge National Museum, disembark at the Phra Pin Klao Bridge pier.

There are also numerous ferries crossing the river from the Rattanakosin and Silom sides. Many commuters make use of these ferries, as they quickly cross the river for only 4 baht. If you're visiting Wat Arun, head for Tha Tien pier at the Rattanakosin side and take the Wat Arun ferry service. Other notable ferry services are from Tha Chang to Wang Lang and from Tha Phra Chan to Wang Lang.

By train
The easiest way to reach Thonburi from Siam Square, Sukhumvit or Silom is to hop on the Skytrain Silom line, which crosses the river at Saphan Taksin (for connections to the Chao Phraya Express Boat) and continues via Wongwian Yai, near the train station of the same name, to terminus Bang Wa. From there you can take a taxi to Khlong Lat Mayom and Taling Chan floating markets without going through the downtown traffic. Bang Wa also serves as the connection point to the circular MRT Blue Line, whose western half loops through Thonburi on its way to Bang Sue.

By bus
Getting into Thonburi by bus is very complicated, so only use city buses as a last resort. Bus travel is necessary to reach some destinations though, such as the Taling Chan Floating Market. If heading there, take ordinary and air-conditioned bus 79 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, which is near Khao San Road. Make sure you take the bus into the right direction (crossing the river) and ask local passengers when to get off or you might get lost.

Get around
Thonburi is a vast district, and getting around it is not easy. The area can hardly be explored on foot, as sights are spread far off throughout the district, most of the main roads are heavily congested with commuters and the area is lacking foot bridges over its numerous canals. This is why most travellers take a canal tour. But this doesn't mean the area cannot be experienced on your own at all—most of the roads can be walked on, and footbridges do exist, just don't say you haven't been warned.

Wat Arun
(วัดอรุณ), also known as the Temple of Dawn, is an iconic temple at the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, right next to the Navy Base. This is a royal temple in the highest rank and it is by far the most visited tourist attraction in Thonburi. It is easily accessible with the 3 baht ferry boat from Wat Pho in Rattanakosin. Ferries take off about every 10 to 15 minutes and operate daily from 06:00 till about 22:00. Walking around the temple gardens and looking at it from a distance is free, but if you want to enter the temple compound and climb the steep stairs, it costs 100 baht (for foreigners at least). Entering the complex can be recommended, as otherwise you won't see the small porcelain pieces it is decorated with. The temple grounds are opened from 07:30 till 17:30. Thousands of foreign tourists visit the temple everyday, many of them by canal tour early in the morning.

A temple has occupied this site since the Ayutthaya Period. It was first named Wat Makok, which means "Olive Temple", named after the many olive orchards in the area. After the fall of Ayutthaya, General Taksin was at war trying to conquer Siam back from Burmese armies. When he arrived in Thonburi in the morning, he reputedly saw this magnificent temple during sunrise. Since then, the temple got the name Wat Chaeng or Wat Arun, which means the Temple of Dawn. Wat Arun served as King Taksin's royal temple and was inside the Wang Derm Palace grounds, his personal residence. In the Thonburi Period, Wat Arun housed the recaptured Emerald Buddha for several years, before it was moved to the Grand Palace in Rattanakosin in 1785. In the Rattanakosin-era, Wat Arun lost its special status to Wat Phra Kaeo in the Grand Palace, but it remained one of the most iconic temples of Thailand. It is featured prominently on 10 baht coins and as the logo of the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT).

The magnificent main prang is in Thai called the Phra Prang Wat Arun. Overlooking the Chao Phraya river, it is not only the symbol of Thonburi, but a world-famous landmark and one of the most photographed icons of Thailand. The first prang was built during the Ayutthaya Period and is in a classic Ayutthayan style. It was reconstructed and enlarged during the reign of King Rama II, and was completely finished in the reign of King Rama III. The height is reported by different sources to be between 66 and 86 metres. It was the tallest structure in Bangkok until the advent of the modern skyscraper. The main prang and its four satellite prangs are beautifully decorated with colourful broken Chinese porcelain pieces. It is believed that these broken porcelain pieces come from Chinese trade ships that were shipwrecked at sea.

Steep steps lead up to two terraces that surround the prang. From there, you have a nice view of the Chao Phraya River with the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and even downtown if you look far enough. Beside the famous central prang, be sure to take a look at the main chapel, the image hall, the Chinese style bell tower, and the open pavilions overlooking the river.

Houses of worship

Museums

Canal tour
Nineteenth-century Bangkok was laced with canals, giving the capital the designation "Venice of the East". As Bangkok turned into a bustling metropolis, Thonburi's surviving canals and the Chao Phraya River provide memorable vignettes of the traditional waterborne way-of-life that once was. No wonder then that most travellers visit the district by boat. Many of the tours and floating markets feel pretty set-up though, but in mornings you might still encounter an authentic floating vendor, paddling from house to house trying to sell some just-prepared food.

The most convenient option is to take a fixed-price trip, which is a package deal that usually includes a visit to Wat Arun, the Royal Barge Museum and a floating market. Such a tour can be booked through a travel agency, but it's easier to go to the pier yourself. There are two tour companies, one operating from Tha Chang pier in Rattanakosin, the other operating from Si Phraya pier in Silom (near River City shopping centre).

Trips can also be arranged by chartering a boat along the canals at the east side of the river. The most convenient place to do this is Tha Chang pier or Tha Tien pier at the Rattanakosin side of the river. But it's also possible at Oriental pier in Silom and at the Bangkok Information Centre under Phra Pinklao Bridge (near Khao San Road). Major canals in Thonburi which tourists can take a boat trip through are the Bangkok Noi canal, Bangkok Yai canal, Daan canal and Chakphra canal. Be prepared to bargain, but don't pay more than around 1,000-1,500 baht for a two-hour trip (without any stops).

Another option is the boat service from Tha Chang pier. It operates every morning from 06:30 till 11:00 and departs every half hour (or when it has enough passengers). Boat fare is only 30 baht per person and you'll visit an orchard and a floating market.

Floating markets
For a thoroughly artificial but sanitized, air-conditioned and easy to reach indoor "floating market", see Sooksiam under.

Eat

If you want to eat like the locals, or if you are on a budget, head for Wang Lang Market. The main roads and their side streets are filled with plenty of unnamed restaurants and simple carts selling meals for less than 50 baht. It is known as one of the best places in Thailand to get food from Southern Thailand. The story goes that Southern Thais settled in this area as trains from the south used to arrive at the Thonburi Train Station nearby.

The Bang Ramat area has plenty of cheap budget restaurants as well, very convenient in case you're waiting at the Southern Bus Terminal. Just walk down Phuttamonthon Sai 1 Road and you will find plenty of restaurants, especially at the intersection with Ban Suan Phutthamonthon Road and the intersection with Wat Kaeo-Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road. They offer traditional Thai cuisine, Thai and Western-style desserts and refreshments. Most delicacies cost 25 baht or less.

Central Plaza Pinklao is a good alternative if you're looking for mid-ranged chain restaurants, such as Yayoi and Sizzlers, or even the usual Western fast food chains. If you're elsewhere in Thonburi, hawker stalls are all over the district, as are 7-Eleven convenience stores.

Drink
Do not expect much of a nightlife scene in Thonburi — for that, the other districts in Bangkok do a better job. There are some dive bars spread over the area, but most of them aren't really interesting unless you want to experience how the locals go out.
 * Rim Rooftop Dinning & Bar, Soi Chaoren Nakhon 35. A rooftop bar with panoramic views of the Chaophraya River and Asiatique’s wheel, this is the perfect local venue to enjoy tasty Thai and European dishes, such as Thai Spicy salad menu and special spaghetti dish. Rim Rooftop is a great place for pre- or post-dinner cocktails, beer and wine. . Tu-Su 16:00-00:00.
 * Rim Rooftop Dinning & Bar, Soi Chaoren Nakhon 35. A rooftop bar with panoramic views of the Chaophraya River and Asiatique’s wheel, this is the perfect local venue to enjoy tasty Thai and European dishes, such as Thai Spicy salad menu and special spaghetti dish. Rim Rooftop is a great place for pre- or post-dinner cocktails, beer and wine. . Tu-Su 16:00-00:00.
 * Rim Rooftop Dinning & Bar, Soi Chaoren Nakhon 35. A rooftop bar with panoramic views of the Chaophraya River and Asiatique’s wheel, this is the perfect local venue to enjoy tasty Thai and European dishes, such as Thai Spicy salad menu and special spaghetti dish. Rim Rooftop is a great place for pre- or post-dinner cocktails, beer and wine. . Tu-Su 16:00-00:00.

Connect
Finding a place to go online is not an easy task in Thonburi. It is mostly a residential neighbourhood and most Thais have an Internet connection at home. You might want to ask around with the locals. There are some Internet cafes along Phran Nok Road, such as The Corner CoffeeShop & Internet near the Wang Lang area.

Go next
Take the train from Thonburi's Wongwian Yai Station to the fishing village of Maha Chai. Trains leave hourly and the trip takes about one hour. The train journey is an attraction in itself, with plenty of orchards, vegetable plantations and coconut groves to see. Maha Chai is a great destination for fresh seafood. If you wish, you can even continue your trip to Samut Songkhram from there.

Take the 3rd class train from Thonburi Train Station to Kanchanaburi. Trains depart twice a day. It is a fun ride and becomes quite scenic if you continue over River Kwai Bridge to the terminus at Nam Tok. You need to stay overnight for meaningful sightseeing. Some visitors do not return to Bangkok but continue by bus to Chiang Mai or via Ban Pong to Hua Hin.

Drive 15 km west along Phetkasem Road for the Rose Garden in Nakhon Pathom. Get away from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok and experience the Thai rural way of life with beautiful gardens and orchards. It is a retreat into a peaceful environment, except at 14:00 when the tour buses and coaches arrive for the daily Thai Village Cultural Show.

title: Bangkok/Thonburi