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New Orleans

Way down yonder in New Orleans (French: La Nouvelle-Orléans), you'll find the roots of jazz and a blossoming culture that is unlike anything else on Earth. Here, the laid-back atmosphere of the riverfront South has mixed with French sophistication, Spanish style, and African-American energy to create something greater than the sum of its parts. "NOLA" is the largest city in Louisiana and one of the top tourist destinations in the United States. "Laissez les bons temps rouler" is what they say here in the Big Easy, and you too can "let the good times roll" with a cool stroll down Bourbon Street, a hot Dixieland band, and even hotter Creole cuisine. Mardi Gras may be the city's calling card, but that's just one day out of the hot and muggy year in New Orleans.

Go ahead, take a riverboat down the Mississippi, munch on some beignets, and watch the Saints go marchin' in. But when it's time to leave, you, too, will know what it means to miss New Orleans.

Nearby communities and suburbs

 * Jefferson Parish: includes Kenner, the location of the New Orleans International Airport, and Metairie, the largest suburb; many hotels and conventions are based here.
 * Saint Bernard Parish: downriver from New Orleans, includes the town of Chalmette where the "Battle of New Orleans" took place in 1815.
 * St. Tammany Parish: on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain; includes Slidell, Covington, Mandeville and Abita Springs
 * Plaquemines Parish: on both sides of the Mississippi south to the Gulf.
 * Destrehan: contains Destrehan Plantation, one of the South's best-preserved antebellum homes.
 * LaPlace: A fast-growing town upriver from New Orleans
 * River Parishes: rural area, not part of greater New Orleans but closely associated with it culturally. Known mostly for its stunning historic plantations.

Overview

New Orleans is known for a host of attributes like its famous Creole food, abundant alcohol, music of many styles, nearby swamps and plantations, 18th- & 19th-century architecture, antiques, gay pride, streetcars, and museums. Nicknamed the Big Easy, New Orleans has long had a reputation as an adult-oriented city. However, the city also offers many attractions for families with children and those interested in culture and the arts. It is a city with Roman Catholic plurality owing to its French and Spanish origins.

Famous festivals like Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest bring in tourists by the millions, and are the two times of the year when you must book well in advance to be sure of a room. The city also hosts many smaller festivals and gatherings like the French Quarter Festival, Creole Tomato Festival, Satchmo SummerFest, the Essence Festival hosted by the magazine, Halloween parading and costume balls, Saint Patrick's Day and Saint Joseph's Day parading, and Southern Decadence. The city takes almost any occasion for an excuse for a parade, a party, and live music, and in New Orleans most events often have a touch of Mardi Gras year round. Like they say, New Orleanians are either planning a party, enjoying one or recovering from one. Party down!

It is a city of great culture with a clash of French, Cajun and some Spanish designs. You may see some voodoo activity at night. The streetcar rides are fun and many of the stores carry exclusive cultural art such as the blue dog collection.

History

In the late 1600s, French trappers and traders began settling in what is now New Orleans, along a Native American trade route between the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain via Bayou St. John. In 1718 the city was founded as "Nouvelle-Orléans" by Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville, Governor of the French colony of Louisiana, with the intent to build it into a provincial capital city. The early French city grew within the grid of what is now the French Quarter. Louisiana was transferred to Spanish rule in the 1760s, but much of the population retained French language and culture. After briefly returning to French rule, Louisiana was purchased by the United States in 1803. At first the new "American" settlers mostly built their homes and shops upriver from the older French parts of the city, across wide "Canal Street" (named for a planned canal that was never built). Canal Street was the dividing line between the Anglophone and Francophone sections; the street's wide median became a popular meeting place called "the neutral ground"—and "neutral ground" became the common phrase for the median of any street, still in use in the New Orleans dialect today.

A British attempt to seize the city in 1815 was repelled downriver from the city in Chalmette by local forces led by Andrew Jackson, whose equestrian statue can be seen in the square named after him in the center of the old Quarter.

Early New Orleans was already a rich melting pot of peoples and cultures. French Spanish African and Anglos were joined by immigrants from Ireland, Germany, and the Caribbean. While a center of the slave trade before the American Civil War, New Orleans also had the USA's largest population of free people of color. The city grew rapidly as a major trade center on the mighty Mississippi River. In the American Civil War of the 1860s, New Orleans fell to the Union early in the conflict without battle within the city, sparing the city's rich historic architecture from the destruction suffered by much of the American South.

At the start of the 20th century, the then largely neglected old French Quarter started gaining new appreciation among artists and bohemians for its architecture and ambiance. Around the same time, a new musical style developed in the city; the music developed and swept around the world under the name of "jazz".

Although far from the big battlefronts, New Orleans is proud of its contributions to the Allied victory over Fascism in World War II, especially the development and construction of landing craft such as "Higgins Boats" which made rapid landing masses of troops on hostile beaches possible. This legacy is why America's National World War II Museum is located in the city.

In 2005, New Orleans was hit by Hurricane Katrina in what was perhaps the worst disaster to hit a U.S. city since the great San Francisco earthquake 99 years earlier. The government-designed levee system that protected the city failed, causing some 80% of the city to be flooded. Recovery was a lengthy process, although the French Quarter and other older parts of town most popular with visitors were built on comparatively high ground and were quickly restored.

Climate
A local joke has it that New Orleans really does have four seasons: Summer, Hurricane, Christmas, and Mardi Gras. Summer is certainly the longest; for about half the year, from about late April to the start of October, the days are usually hot, or raining, or hot and raining. Winters are generally short and mild, but subject to occasional cold snaps that may surprise visitors who mistakenly think the city has a year round tropical climate. The high humidity can make the cold snaps feel quite penetrating. Snow is so rare that the occasional light dusting of flakes will make most locals stop what they are doing to stare; they'll excitedly show the phenomenon to local children too young to remember the last time snow visited the city. During a rare freezing event, you'll see that most locals have no idea how to drive on iced or snowy roads.

The Atlantic hurricane season (which includes all of the Gulf of Mexico) is June 1 through November 30. The most active month is September.

Some say the best time to visit New Orleans is between late November and early June. However New Orleans has things going on all year long. A rewarding visit can be made even the hottest part of the summer: start your day early, and do your outdoor sightseeing in the morning. The lush local flora can display a wealth of colorful flowers. Mid-day and afternoon, retreat to air-conditioning; visit a museum, have a leisurely visit to a cafe or restaurant, or take a siesta at your hotel. Come back outside when the sun gets low. After dark the night shift of flora comes on duty; especially in older neighborhoods such as Esplanade Ridge, Carrollton, and the Garden District, with an abundance of night-blooming jasmine, the sweet deliciously scented air can be almost intoxicating.

Creoles, Cajuns, and New Orleanians
Despite what many visitors expect, the population, food, music, and traditions of New Orleans are not predominantly Cajun. The Acadian or Cajun (from 'Cadien, pronounced kay-juhn) people developed their rich culture to the west of the city, in the Acadiana section of Louisiana. While there are some good places for Cajun food and music in the city — some are branches of famous Southwest Louisiana Cajun places that opened up locations here — understand that Cajun food and culture are imports that have no roots in New Orleans. Some businesses in the most tourist heavy parts of town have decided to profit by selling visitors what they want, slapping the term "Cajun" on dishes and products with little to do with Acadiana.

The oldest aspects of New Orleans culture are Creole — which here designates the people that were already here before the city became part of the United States with the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. French, Spanish, and African are the primary ethnic and cultural groups in old Creole culture, with additional input from Native Americans and early German immigrants (who became much more numerous later in the 19th century).

Since the Louisiana Purchase, other major immigrant groups and influences on local cuisine and culture have included Italian (mostly Southern and Sicilian), Irish, German, Caribbean and Central American. Hondurans are traditionally the largest Hispanic group in the metro area, but during the post-Katrina reconstruction boom there was an influx of Latinos, mostly hailing from Central America and Mexico. Smaller populations of Cubans, Dominicans, and Puerto Ricans are also sparsely located throughout the area. In the late 20th century a sizable Vietnamese community was added to the New Orleans gumbo. They can be found in greatest concentrations in New Orleans East and portions of the Westbank suburbs (Marrero, Harvey, & Gretna).

Tourist information

 * New Orleans Tourism website

Talk
Like the rest of the United States, English is the main language spoken in New Orleans. Many residents speak with a unique accent known as the Yat accent, which is often described as being similar to a Brooklyn or New Jersey accent, though even many born-and-bred New Orleanians, especially uppers and middle class ones, shun the local accent in favor of a general American accent due to the negative stereotypes associated with it.

French is no longer widely spoken, though street signs in the French Quarter are bilingual in French and English, and some streets have ceramic signs with their Spanish names as well. Some elderly residents speak a French-based creole similar to Haitian Creole known as Louisiana Creole, though the language is now moribund, and most younger residents cannot speak it.

By plane

To get into town a taxi ($36 for one or two people, $15 per person for three or more) is quickest; that's the flat fee from the airport to any spot in the French Quarter or Central Business District. Limo service is also available for rates starting at $35, and the airport shuttle is $20. See the airport website for other options.

A cheap way to get to town is the Jefferson Transit Airport Express route E1-Veterans/Airport, which is only $1.50 ($2 with transfer) or RTA route 202-Airport Express, which is only $1.25. The E1-Veterans/Airport route runs straight down Airline Highway (US 61) to the Cemeteries Transit Terminal (more of a collection of seats outside than an actual building of significance, approximately 45 minutes) on Canal Blvd, while the 202-Airport Express takes the freeway just outside of the French Quarter (approximately 30 minutes). It is possible to get into Downtown/French Quarter from the Cemeteries Transit Terminal by streetcar (route 47) or bus (route 91).

The Airport bus stop is on Level 1-Baggage Claim, outside Door 2, Zones B4 and B5.

Many major hotels have shuttle buses from the airport. Even if you're not staying at one of those hotels, the shuttles can often be a value for those getting into town if their destination is near one of the hotels.

By car

 * I-10.svg The main artery into and out of town is Interstate 10, going to the east and west.
 * I-55.svg & US 51.svg
 * I-59.svg
 * US 61.svg
 * US 90.svg

By train
New Orleans is served by several long-distance Amtrak routes.

 * City of New Orleans: Daily daytime train from Chicago via Champaign-Urbana, Carbondale, Memphis, Jackson and Hammond LA.
 * Crescent: Daily from New York via Philadelphia, Washington, Charlotte, Greensboro, Greenville SC, Atlanta and Birmingham.
 * Sunset Limited: 3x weekly from Los Angeles via Tucson, El Paso, San Antonio, Houston, Lake Charles, Lafayette, New Iberia and Schriever. There is an Amtrak Thruway continuation of this route to Montgomery via Mobile by Greyhound Lines.

Daily services between New Orleans and Mobile in Alabama is expected to launch in 2024.

By bus
The bus station for long distance buses is the same as the train station (Union Passenger (Amtrak) Terminal) at 1001 Loyola or somewhere nearby:

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 * content=Comes in from Houston (Via Beaumont, Lake Charles, Baton Rouge) . They continue to Dallas and Ft Worth through Houston.

Get around
If you are visiting the French Quarter, casinos, or just the Central Business District, a car may be more of a burden than an asset. Most hotel parking is valet/remote/expensive/difficult at best. New Orleans is ready for visitors, and the rapid transit, trolley cars and buses are plentiful 24/7. Walking is fun and healthy during daylight and early evening. After midnight, you may want to call a taxi, but likely it will be a short trip at reasonable cost. For a great way to see the city, try renting a bike from one of the several bike rental companies in the French Quarter or Marigny. Be very aware when riding a bike; the drivers can be quite aggressive. However, outside the French Quarter or areas served by the streetcar, public transport tends to be unreliable, so renting a car would be the best way to get around.

With a car
Be alert that the streets of much of the city were laid out before the automobile, especially in the older parts of town of most interest to visitors. There are many one way streets. It is common for cars to park on the side of the street causing some of the streets to be too narrow for 2 way traffic. This means someone needs to pull to the side.

Due to consolidation of the underlying soils and a lack of resources, potholes are common and road conditions are often poor for a developed country. Some developing countries even have better roads.

Street signage is sometimes unclear or missing.

Some streets have terrible drainage and will flood nearly every time it rains. Water will drain after but makes for difficult driving.

Parking is often hard to find around many areas of interest to tourists, but there are generally pay lots in the area. Hotel parking can cost over $40/night downtown and in the French Quarter.

Those who don't know how to parallel park may wish to just leave their car in a pay lot when visiting much of the city.

Without a car

Those staying in or near the French Quarter can easily get around by foot, with optional occasional trips by streetcar, bus, or cab if they wish to visit other parts of town. In the French Quarter, bicycle rentals are available at a bike shop on Dauphine Street near the hotels of Canal St as well as at an antique shop on Decatur Street near the French Market. Other places with bike rentals include a bicycle shop in the Marigny Triangle neighborhood on Frenchmen Street and another Uptown on Magazine Street.

The Riverfront, Canal Street and St. Charles streetcars travel to or near many of the sites listed here. Fares for buses or streetcars are $1.25, 25¢ extra for a transfer (good only on another line but not a return trip on the same line). Express buses are $1.50. Day passes are available for $3. All buses and streetcars provide change cards that can be used towards future rides on buses and streetcars (even the St. Charles streetcar line, which has posted signs claiming that no change is given). On the old cars on the St. Charles line, you need to push the rear doors to open them when the street car stops. Be sure to push hard!

Public transit is by the New Orleans Regional Transit Authority ("RTA").

During Mardi Gras in February, transportation of any sort will be a challenge. If you decide to get your own car, parking will be exorbitant (as high as $10 per hour) in the French Quarter and the City Area. Should you try to get a taxi, chances are you will have to call more than one company, and several times each, before you get a booking. After that, you will probably have to wait an average of 45 minutes to one hour. If you wish to travel from across town during Mardi Gras, it is strongly recommended that you do get a car and park close to the streetcars or just outside the city area.

Generally, public transport is very bad and most people use cars.

Knowing which way is up
The older neighborhoods of the city, (which comprise nearly 45% of the city), were laid out along the banks of the Mississippi River. Except for the grid of the French Quarter, streets were laid out either following the river's curves or perpendicular to them, not according to compass directions or a grid.

For this reason, locals in these parts of town often don't give directions according to "north, south, east, and west". The four directions, instead, are "up" (or "up river" or "up town"), "down" (or "down river" or "down town"), "river" (or "towards the river" or sometimes "in"), and "lake" (or "towards the lake" or "back" or sometimes "out"). Don't be daunted, this makes sense when you take a moment to understand it.

Look at a map of the city. If, for example, you are taking the streetcar that runs along Saint Charles Avenue from the French Quarter to Carrollton, you see that the route starts off going south, then over some miles gradually turns west, and winds up running northwest. This is because Saint Charles reflects a bend in the river. From the local perspective, the entire route goes one way: up (or on the return trip from Carrollton to the Quarter, down).

Canal Street is the up river boundary of the French Quarter. (Keep going further "up" away from the Quarter and you'll be in "Uptown".)

Some streets are labeled "North" and "South", this reflects which side of Canal Street they are on (despite the fact that Canal Street runs from southeast to northwest). The part of Rampart Street on the French Quarter side is North Rampart Street; the part on the Central Business District side is South Rampart. Also, a good map of the entire city is a must, as people from out of town may have to learn to match letters on signs to letters on the map. You see, most street names are French and Creole in origin and may be hard to pronounce. For instance, try to pronounce these example street names : Urquhart, Rocheblave, Dorgenois, Terpsichore, Tchoupitoulas, Burthe, Freret. (For the record, locals say "Urk-heart, Roach-a-blave, Der-gen-wa, Terp-sic-cor, Chop-a-two-lis, B'youth, Fa-ret.") Now you understand.

Many major New Orleans streets are divided, with a "neutral ground" (median) running down the middle. For this reason, the traffic lights have no dedicated cycle for a protected left turn. On streets with a wide neutral ground, there is a solution. Imagine turning from an avenue to a street; the solution is to turn left on green, queue in the stretch of the street between the two halves of the avenue, then proceed once the traffic light on the street has turned green. On streets with a narrow neutral ground, there is not enough room for cars to queue. In these situations, left turns are often prohibited; the solution is to go straight, take the next U-turn, then take a right turn when you arrive back at the intersection. Streets such as Tulane Avenue have "No Left Turn" signs posted for miles. In these situations, the adage "three rights make a left" comes in handy.

See

Detailed listings of attractions are mentioned in the Districts sections listed above. Highlights include:
 * Historic architecture in neighborhoods
 * Ornate colonial French and Spanish in the French Quarter, Faubourg Marigny, Bywater and Tremé
 * Victorian mansions Uptown and other historic architecture citywide
 * Historic cemeteries are in the Uptown, Tremé, and Mid-City areas
 * the Superdome & Smoothie King Center, in the Central Business District
 * Aquarium, Central Business District
 * Museums – museum highlights include: National World War II Museum (formerly D-Day Museum), Central Business District. New Orleans Museum of Art, Mid-City; Ogden Museum of Southern Art, Central Business District; French Quarter museum highlights include the Cabildo and Presbytere history museums, the Old Mint, and several house museums. Visit the Lower Ninth Ward Museum to learn about the history of this often under-represented and under-valued neighborhood that suffered some of the worst damage and is least recovered from hurricane Katrina.
 * Cities of the Dead – Historic cemeteries
 * Mardi Gras World – with thousands of sensational sculptured props and giant figures—it's the place where Mardi Gras floats are made. A great place to get the Mardi Gras spirit year-round; at the edge of the Central Business District
 * Audubon Zoo in the Audubon & University District
 * New Orleans Museum of Art and City Park in Mid-City
 * the Mississippi River - great views from the French Quarter, the Algiers ferry, and the Audubon Zoo "Butterfly" park Uptown

Children's attractions
Some top children and family friendly attractions in New Orleans include:
 * New Orleans with children
 * Audubon Zoo, Audubon & University District
 * Aquarium of the Americas, French Quarter
 * Louisiana Children's Museum, Central Business District
 * Storyland Amusement Park, City Park, Mid-City
 * Streetcar rides—many children from cities without trams find riding on an old streetcar an interesting novelty in itself—and parents can enjoy the scenery and historic architecture.

Occult and Voodoo destinations

 * Tomb of Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau in St. Louis Cemetery #1, Treme

Do

 * - located in New Orleans
 * Stroll historic neighborhoods look at the architecture and businesses, and people watch in the French Quarter, Faubourg Marigny, Faubourg Tremé, Bywater, Esplanade Ridge, Uptown, Algiers Point and Carrollton
 * Streetcar rides St. Charles Avenue (green cars) is the oldest continuously operating streetcar in the U.S.; the Canal Street route also provides a pleasant ride
 * Riverboat cruises - short or long cruises, some of which have quite good jazz bands on board. Great way to enjoy 3 attractions-in-one: New Orleans food and music during a cruise down the Mississippi. Aquarium-Zoo Cruise - riverboat cruise package is a great way to see the Aquarium of the Americas and the Audubon Zoo[[Image:I llove Fall 068.jpg|thumb|The Natchez Riverboat provides sight-seeing and entertainment]]
 * River ferry – the budget alternative to riverboats, take the pedestrian ferry from the foot of Canal Street across the Mississippi to Algiers Point and back for a great view of the river, downtown, and the Quarter. It is $2 per person, each way.
 * Walking tours including Voodoo, jazz history, French Quarter, or Garden District ones
 * Bicycle Tours for history, architecture, or hurricane damage.
 * Casino gambling at Harrah's next to the Quarter in the Central Business District. Voted "Best Casino" by the readers of "Casino Player." This "world-class" casino offers over 2000 of the newest slots and over a hundred action-packed table games along with a 24 hour buffet, Besh Steakhouse and many other food options.
 * Antique shopping up & down Royal St in the Quarter or Magazine Street Uptown.
 * Cooking Classes – learn how to cook meals like a local when you return home. A four-course meal is demonstrated by excellent chefs, who will entertain you as well as teach you the secrets of Creole and Cajun cooking.
 * Carriage rides – Take a carriage ride while you're in New Orleans ... and enjoy a tour of the French Quarter (Garden District tours available, too!) Quaint mule-drawn carriages take you past many landmarks of New Orleans, including Bourbon Street, the mighty Mississippi, and Jackson Square.
 * Celebrate Mardi Gras – The two weeks leading up to Ash Wednesday is usually a period of celebration in the city, with parades and parties throughout. But in 2021, due to COVID-19, "Yardi Gras" has taken Mardi Gras's place. Throughout the city, homes and yards (hence the term "Yardi Gras") have now been transformed into "house floats" in place of the colorful parade floats. Mardi Gras's organizers plan to resume the annual parade in 2022.
 * Run. there are great road races such as the Mardi Gras Marathon, and the somewhat more whimsical Red Dress Run (everyone wears a red dress and running shoes, men and women).
 * Burlesque and drag shows – The same freewheeling attitude that made New Orleans the birthplace of jazz also made it a historical hotbed for envelope-pushing queer and women performance artists, and in the late 2010s, this tradition has been revived. There are drag and burlesque performances in New Orleans every night of the week, predominantly in the Marginy/Bywater area but also throughout the entire city. The community-run NOLA Drag and Burlesque Instagram page is an always up-to-date source for the wide variety of performances you can see.
 * Celebrate Mardi Gras – The two weeks leading up to Ash Wednesday is usually a period of celebration in the city, with parades and parties throughout. But in 2021, due to COVID-19, "Yardi Gras" has taken Mardi Gras's place. Throughout the city, homes and yards (hence the term "Yardi Gras") have now been transformed into "house floats" in place of the colorful parade floats. Mardi Gras's organizers plan to resume the annual parade in 2022.
 * Run. there are great road races such as the Mardi Gras Marathon, and the somewhat more whimsical Red Dress Run (everyone wears a red dress and running shoes, men and women).
 * Burlesque and drag shows – The same freewheeling attitude that made New Orleans the birthplace of jazz also made it a historical hotbed for envelope-pushing queer and women performance artists, and in the late 2010s, this tradition has been revived. There are drag and burlesque performances in New Orleans every night of the week, predominantly in the Marginy/Bywater area but also throughout the entire city. The community-run NOLA Drag and Burlesque Instagram page is an always up-to-date source for the wide variety of performances you can see.

Day trips outside of town

 * Swamp tours - those with a car can make an easy day trip to the Jean Lafitte Nature Preserve, a free park, with as good a view of local swamp flora and fauna as various pay tours. Some swamp tour operators offer transportation to and from New Orleans for an extra fee. Public transportation to reach swamp tours is not available.
 * Honey Island Swamp Tours - nearly 70,000 acres of the Honey Island Swamp is a permanently protected wildlife area. Located about a 60km drive east of downtown New Orleans, and about 11 km south-east of Slidell.
 * Jean Lafitte Swamp Tours - Cajun-style boat tour takes you out on an 1 hour and 45 minute trip through the heart of Southern Louisiana's swamplands. Some swamp tours also have vans that can pick you up at your hotel and take you to the swamp tour location, though this can be significantly more expensive option than driving yourself. Located about a 30 km drive south of downtown New Orleans.
 * Plantation tours - Located in the River Parishes, the Great River Road between New Orleans and Baton Rouge has several fine plantations, "Laura," "Magnolia Mound" (Creole Plantations) and "San Francisco" are of special interest. If you want to learn about slavery, consider Whitney plantation.  Located about 75 km west of downtown New Orleans, expect the drive to take about an hour.  Tour operators operate day trips to some plantations from New Orleans.  Public transportation to reach these plantations is not available.
 * Battle of New Orleans Site - battlefield history fans will want to visit the site of the famous battle where Andrew Jackson defeated the British at the end of the War of 1812. It didn't happen in New Orleans, but in the nearby community of Chalmette, Louisiana. Drive there or take a riverboat.
 * Battle of New Orleans Site - battlefield history fans will want to visit the site of the famous battle where Andrew Jackson defeated the British at the end of the War of 1812. It didn't happen in New Orleans, but in the nearby community of Chalmette, Louisiana. Drive there or take a riverboat.

Festivals
In addition to year-round attractions, a series of celebrations and festivals provide additional interest:

 * Mardi Gras

 * Halloween. While not as large a celebration as Mardi Gras, Halloween is still a big deal in New Orleans. Locals begin costuming two or three days in advance, with most of the action Halloween night being, of course, in the French Quarter, which becomes a veritable parade of costumes ranging from the traditional to the satirical. Families can enjoy Halloween festivities in their own neighborhoods or at various events around the city specifically geared for children.
 * Halloween. While not as large a celebration as Mardi Gras, Halloween is still a big deal in New Orleans. Locals begin costuming two or three days in advance, with most of the action Halloween night being, of course, in the French Quarter, which becomes a veritable parade of costumes ranging from the traditional to the satirical. Families can enjoy Halloween festivities in their own neighborhoods or at various events around the city specifically geared for children.
 * Halloween. While not as large a celebration as Mardi Gras, Halloween is still a big deal in New Orleans. Locals begin costuming two or three days in advance, with most of the action Halloween night being, of course, in the French Quarter, which becomes a veritable parade of costumes ranging from the traditional to the satirical. Families can enjoy Halloween festivities in their own neighborhoods or at various events around the city specifically geared for children.
 * Halloween. While not as large a celebration as Mardi Gras, Halloween is still a big deal in New Orleans. Locals begin costuming two or three days in advance, with most of the action Halloween night being, of course, in the French Quarter, which becomes a veritable parade of costumes ranging from the traditional to the satirical. Families can enjoy Halloween festivities in their own neighborhoods or at various events around the city specifically geared for children.

 * Neighborhood festivals. Some of the smaller neighborhood based events are listed in the individual neighborhood articles; they often offer great local music and food in a more intimate setting.

Listen
New Orleans is justly famous for the music it produces. In some other places live music may be thought of as occasional luxury; in New Orleans live music is an essential part of the fabric of life. Parades from the grandest Mardi Gras spectaculars to small neighborhood club events have to have bands to get the locals dancing in the streets. Hey, New Orleans is the birthplace of the "jazz funeral".

There are usually several good performers somewhere in town even on a slow night. Understand that most of the good stuff is not along the tourist strip of Bourbon Street (though a couple of genuine good music venues exist even there). Most sections of the city have at least one (and often several) venue offering great live music.

Budget travellers should know there are usually at least a few free live music events every week in various parks and galleries around town. More often than not, on Sundays there will be a brass band "second line" parade somewhere in town. It's also common to see small brass bands busking on the street in the French Quarter and on Frenchman Street. If you stop to watch, you should throw a couple bucks (or a bit more if you can afford it) in the donation box.

The best ways to keep informed about who is playing where and when:

 * Gambit's Best of New Orleans, Gambit, the city's free local newsweekly has features on arts and entertainment and whatever else is going on. Gambit also produces the de-facto local restaurant guide and listings.
 * Offbeat Magazine is a free monthly local music magazine with extensive listings. Can be picked up at most music venues, coffee shops, and other places around town, or ask your hotel concierge for a copy.
 * WWOZ 90.7 F.M. is the community radio station dedicated to local music. At the top of each odd numbered hour they play a listing of the live music happening around town for the day. WWOZ is also good for finding out about special events like "second line" parades and "jazz funeral"s.
 * WTUL 91.5 FM is the Tulane college radio station, playing mostly progressive music, but also jazz, classical, and numerous other specialties. At the top of each hour they announce concerts and other events going on around town.

Eat
OK, so you're hungry. You've come to the right place. New Orleans is a culinary delight, but don't look too hard for healthy food; some would say don't look at all (although those demanding vegetarian, vegan, or kosher food can, with effort, find some). You're on vacation, so take advantage of what they prepare best here. New Orleans has good food for people on any type of budget.

While most places take major credit cards, "cash only" restaurants are perhaps a bit more common here than other places, so plan in advance.

The main culinary tradition in New Orleans is Creole - which means the culture and its cuisine already flourishing when Louisiana was purchased by the U.S. in 1803. The Creoles were the peoples living in New Orleans from its founding. Creole has a mixture of influences, including French, Spanish and Native American, with a strong West African foundation. Creoles cook with roux (a blend of butter and flour) and the "trinity," a popular term for green pepper, onion and celery. These are the base for many savory dishes. 19th-century southern Italian immigrants added increased appreciation for garlic — an old local joke calls garlic the "Pope" to the culinary "Trinity" — along with tomato based sauces and other dishes. (The influences went both ways; some New Orleans "Italian" restaurants have their own take on the Italian tradition, sometimes called "Creole Italian".) Eastern European, Latin American, Vietnamese, and other immigrants have added to the New Orleans mix. Thus New Orleans cuisine is rich in tradition while open to new ideas, and culturally inclusive while still uniquely distinctive.

The seafood is fresh and relatively cheap compared to many places. Some think it is often best fried, but you can try seafood of a wide variety cooked many different ways here. Repeated studies have shown that the 2010 oil spill has not at all affected the quality of Gulf seafood.

Oysters are a popular specialty, gulped down raw, battered and fried, in a po' boy sandwich, or elegant Rockefeller style. Most oysters served here come from local Gulf Coast oyster beds, and are larger and meatier than most oysters from the Pacific or Atlantic.

There may on occasion be some exotic items on the menu. Yes, you can have alligator if you’d like - it mostly tastes like chicken (but chewier). The softshell crab can be excellent. If it's on the menu of a good restaurant, it's probably pretty good—when in doubt, ask.

Crawfish (don't say "cray" fish) is a popular dish here, usually boiled in a huge pot of very spicy water and served in a pile with corn and potatoes. If cracking open the shells and sucking the heads isn't your thing, try them with pasta or in sushi or any other way they’re prepared.

Po-boys (don't say "poor boys") are the distinctive Louisiana variation of the sandwich. Unless you request your sandwich put on something else like sliced white bread (while you're in New Orleans, don't bother), it will be served on a po-boy loaf, similar to French bread; bread pundits debate whether the New Orleans po-boy bread is the same thing as the baguette of France or qualifies as a unique type of bread (some say it actually is French bread but because of the humidity, the bread ferments very quickly and gets its distinctive taste and texture). Either way, it's good, but only part of what makes the sandwich tasty. The rest is what is put on it, of course. Roast beef with "debris" gravy, fried shrimp, oysters, etc. You'll probably be asked if you want it "dressed". In New Orleans, "dressed" means with lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, and sometimes pickles, depending on the restaurant. Every neighborhood in New Orleans has its favorite po-boy places; the better ones butcher, slow cook, and season their own meats. The po-boy is a great and filling taste of New Orleans at a reasonable price.

The Muffaletta is a sandwich served on a big round airy Italian loaf (also called a muffaletta) which is similar to focaccia, it consists of a variety of sliced meats such as capicola, salami, and mortadella as well as cheeses topped with olive salad. Unless you have a very big appetite, half a muffaletta will probably be plenty for a filling meal. It was created in New Orleans around 1906 at Central Grocery on Decatur where you can still purchase them.

Gumbo is a tasty Louisiana traditional stew, originating in West Africa and comes in numerous varieties. The vegetable base is traditionally okra (in West Africa, the Wolof language word "gombo" means okra) with filé (sassafras leaves) used as a thickener. Seafood is the most common meat; but one will just as often find chicken, duck, smoked sausage or "andouille" sausage, the ages-old "gombo d'zherbes" (vegetarian) and other types of gumbo on many a menu. Gumbo is universally served with rice.

Jambalaya is a dish consisting of rice mixed with various spices, vegetables and some type of meat, with many variations. Another popular local rice dish is the étouffée, which consists of plain rice topped with a creamy crawfish sauce.

Red beans and rice sounds bland, but is a tasty, comforting treat prepared in the New Orleans way. The beans are slowly cooked until they reach a creamy texture, with a mix of onions, bell pepper, celery, and spices. Especially traditional on Mondays. It can be vegetarian but may not be; ask. It is often served with spicy, smoked or "andouille" sausage.

Local fresh produce: Have you heard of Louisiana strawberries, satsumas and creole tomatoes? If not, it's probably because they're so good that locals eat most of them right here! The strawberries come in around Jazz Fest time, satsumas in December and the creole tomatoes in early summer. You may spot "mirliton"; on the menu, a vegetable not common in most of the United States. In Mexico and the Southwest, it is called "chayote", though travelers to Guatemala may recognize it as the same thing that's called "hisquil" down there. Of course, when the first crops come in, there are parties, festivals, and parades commemorating the strawberries, creole tomatoes, or mirlitons.

Many restaurants will have hot sauce as a condiment on the table (even Chinese and fast-food restaurants). Louisiana is the creator of Tabasco sauce after all, although Crystal, also a Louisiana product, is probably more popular locally. Although always flavorful, not all New Orleans food will be very spicy hot. Many locals do like to add hot sauce to many dishes. If you can take it, give it a try.

The Tremé area is home to two of America's most venerated soul food institutions; Willie Mae's Scotch House and Dooky Chase's Restaurant, both of which are excellent locations to sample some staples of African-American cuisine.

Desserts

Bananas Foster might be the most well known Orleanian delicacy served at the end of a fine meal. Consisting of warmed bananas mixed with brown sugar, cinnamon, butter, and rum poured over vanilla ice cream; it is usually made flambe style in front of the customer just before serving. There are a number of restaurants in the French Quarter that specialize in combining the show of making it and serving it as well.

Snow balls or sno-balls are the New Orleans take on the northern "snow cone" or flavored ice done with more finesse. Ice is not crushed but shaved into microscopically fine snow in special machines, and flavored with syrups, fresh made at the better places. New Orleans sno-balls are often topped or layered with sweetened condensed milk, but this is optional. The flavors need not be overly sweet, and can come in a wide variety ranging from striking to subtle, including such treats as wild cherry, lemonade, chocolate cream, coffee, orchid vanilla, and dozens of others. Locals almost worship the better neighborhood sno-ball stands during the city's long hot summer; try the refreshing treat as a snack or dessert and find out why. Many snow ball shops will close in the winter, as New Orleans is surprisingly chilly between November and February and the demand dies down.

Beignets (pronounced "ben-yays") are a deep fried square pastry covered with powdered sugar. Most famously found at Café du Monde & Cafe Beignet, beignets are a traditional New Orleans treat enjoyed by tourists and locals alike. Beignets are traditionally served in orders of three with café au lait.

Café au lait is a coffee served half brewed coffee and half hot milk. Coffee in New Orleans differs from any other coffee in the world. During the Civil War, coffee beans were very scarce. The local French extended their coffee supply by adding ground roasted chicory (the root of endive lettuce) to the brew. New Orleanians became very accustomed to the new beverage, noting that the chicory softened the bitter edge of the coffee while enhancing the robust flavor. Many taste a slight chocolate flavor while drinking café au lait, due to the addition of chicory.

Bread pudding is very popular in the state of Louisiana, and New Orleans is no exception. It can be found in the dessert menu of virtually every restaurant, and is often drizzled with a sweet whiskey-based sauce.

In many of the fine restaurants around town, people take their clothes as seriously as their food. Despite the obnoxious heat and humidity in the summertime, don’t go to these restaurants dressed in shorts or jeans; they won’t let you in. This applies only to the nicest (and some say best) restaurants in town but there are plenty of places that you can wear shorts to (many of which are great too). This is what you've been saving your pennies for.

Drink
The legal drinking age is 21 in Louisiana, as it is across the US. At bars in New Orleans this is strictly enforced, but not as much in restaurants. However, notably unlike the vast majority of US cities, drinking in public is legal everywhere in the city, provided it is within a plastic container (note that outside the French Quarter, there are no container restrictions). New Orleans also has no "blue laws" or mandatory closing times for liquor establishments, which means that any hour of day or night, every day of the year, there is always somewhere to get alcohol.

You can head out the door with an open container of alcohol—but not in a bottle or can; to try to keep broken glass and jagged metal from filling the street, local laws mandate you use a plastic cup while on city streets and sidewalks. These are known locally as "go cups", and every local bar provides them, usually has a stack of them by the door and the bouncer will take your drink from you and pour it into the cup because bars can be held liable if they don't. Use them, because New Orleans Police are watching for it, especially on Bourbon Street. Some drinks are noted for their potency, such as the tourist favorite "Hurricane" (a fruit punch and rum drink), which originated at Pat O'Brien's bar but now common in the Quarter. However, drinking does not have to be about quantity. Popular refined local cocktails include the "sazerac" and the "Ramos gin fizz". New Orleanians also love wine.

Beer lovers will be happy to learn that local craft brewers have expanded in New Orleans. While Abita was the perennial favorite, newer options include NOLA Brewing Company, Port Orleans Brewing, and Urban South. Smaller brewers include Zony Mash Brewing Company, Courtyard Brewery (which specializes in IPAs), Miel Brewery, and Brieux Carre.

Listings of some top choices of the city's bars, from friendly neighborhood dives to elegant cocktail palaces, can be found in the neighborhood articles.

Especially if you're drinking alcohol (but even if you aren't), be sure to drink a lot of water or other non-alcoholic beverages to avoid dehydration in the southern heat and humidity.

New Orleans is a great coffee city. A good portion of the Eastern US's coffee beans are imported through the Port of New Orleans and roasted in local factories. Locals tend to take a good cup of coffee seriously, and in New Orleans coffee tends to be a bit stronger and more flavorful than in most of the USA. Café du Monde in the French Quarter is probably the city's most historic coffee destination, serving café au lait with chicory since 1862. Locally based coffee house chains PJ's and CC's have locations around the city serving good hot and cold coffee drinks. Newer smaller chains include Mojo Coffee House, French Truck Coffee and Hey Cafe. New Orleans also has a wealth of local neighborhood coffee shops; the best are listed in the individual sections articles.

Sleep
The numerous hotels in the French Quarter and Central Business District are most centrally located for most tourists, but there are good accommodations in many other parts of town as well. Hotels on or near the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line in Uptown are popular with many visitors, and the smaller hotels and guest houses in neighborhoods like Marigny and Mid-City can provide an immersion in New Orleans away from the larger masses of tourists. Individual hotels are listed in the parts of town sub-articles.

Hurricanes
Katrina alerted the world to the danger of hurricanes in this part of the world. However if one visits a place vulnerable to natural disaster, at least hurricanes give warning. During the height of the hurricane season, from July through October, be sure to check with the weather service before going to New Orleans, and if a large storm is threatening the Gulf Coast, consider a change of plans. If one threatens the city while you're there, play it safe and leave early; don't wait for an evacuation order to head away from the coast. If you cannot get out of the area you should at least be sure to get to a hotel on high ground.

Health
The main health concerns are the same for the rest of the U.S. South: If you're not accustomed to the sub-tropical heat, drink plenty of liquids and pace yourself in the sunshine.

Crime
The majority of the city's notorious crime problem is manifested away from the parts of town of interest to most visitors, but always be aware of your surroundings. The Central City neighborhood has the worst problems, and should be avoided by casual visitors. The "Back of town" sections of the 7th, 8th and 9th Wards have also been having serious problems. Visitors are advised to check on current local conditions before visiting these neighborhoods and take extra care if they go.

Avoid the Iberville project on the other side of N Rampart St, west of Armstrong Park.

While the French Quarter and attractions most visited by tourists are some of the safest areas from violent crimes, beware opportunistic thieves looking for a chance to snatch something from visitors who are not keeping an eye on their valuables. A famous 19th-century sign from the Quarter reads: "Beware Pickpockets and Loose Women." Not much has changed. Tourists can be so drunk and distracted that they are separated from their common sense and, all too often, other things. Keep things in your front pockets, and be careful with your digital on Bourbon. Locals have an expression, "Nothing good happens in the Quarter after midnight". Don't tangle with bar bouncers.

Around parts of the French Quarter and nearby areas with many tourists, visitors can encounter hustlers who will try to get a few dollars from tourists offering anything from a flower to a hat, a foot massage, or even to clean your shoes. Another popular tourist scam is to bet a tourist $20 that the scammer knows where the tourist got their shoes. If the tourist takes the bet, the scammer responds, "You got them on your feet" and demands the $20. Remember that you are under no obligation to talk to people and it's just best to ignore them. This is especially true of the hordes of gutter punks in the lower Quarter, near the old U.S. Mint and where Frenchman intersects with Esplanade, near the fire station.

All in all, though, the government and police are aware of the problem and are there to help you but often don't seem to care. Use your common sense (as one would do in any other sizeable city). Being alone and utterly drunk is not the best state to be in when walking through a deserted alley in downtown New Orleans on a regular busy Saturday night, and during massive crowd-drawers like Mardi Gras or Southern Decadence, one should be more careful than on an average Wednesday afternoon.

Looking for drugs or illegal activities will not only expose you to danger; if someone you just met is trying to lure you into a strange part of town for something decadent, assume you're probably being set up for a robbery or worse. Also Louisiana has the harshest sentencing laws in the country as most felonies carry a mandatory prison sentence, so conduct yourself accordingly.

Connect
The telephone area code for New Orleans and the nearer suburbs is 504.

There are cyber-cafes throughout the city, with the greatest number in the French Quarter and CBD. Many coffee houses and some bars offer wireless internet connection.

The New Orleans Public Library has branches around the city. Out-of-towners can get 1 hour of free internet access on library computers upon presenting photo ID; try to go at a time when school is in session to minimize risk of long waits. Libraries also provide unlimited free wireless internet access. Check out the library website for current special events held at various branches, which can range from children's storytime to lectures authors, presentations and exhibits on local history, and more. Branch libraries are open in almost every section of the city.

Consulates

 * 🇧🇪 Belgium
 * 🇩🇰 Denmark
 * 🇩🇴 Dominican Republic
 * 🇫🇷 France
 * 🇩🇪 Germany
 * 🇮🇹 Italy
 * 🇲🇽 Mexico
 * 🇳🇱 Netherlands
 * 🇳🇴 Norway
 * 🇵🇹 Portugal
 * 🇸🇪 Sweden
 * 🇻🇪 Venezuela

There used to be a Japanese consulate in New Orleans but it was moved to Nashville, Tennessee.

Newspapers

 * NOLA.com. The website for the combined New Orleans Advocate and Times-Picayune daily newspaper. The Advocate bought The Times-Picayune in 2019.
 * Gambit. Free weekly. Dated Tuesdays, listing events of the week; often available the weekend before.
 * AntiGravity Free monthly. New Orleans alternative culture. Found at coffee houses, alternative music venues, comix shops.
 * Tulane Hullabaloo. Weekly student newspaper of Tulane University, published Fridays.
 * The Maroon. Weekly student newspaper of Loyola University, published Fridays.

Go next
If you have a car and want a short adventure, drive north on the Lake Ponchartrain Causeway bridge for a thrill. As soon as you get to the other side, start looking for the plentiful seafood offerings: fresh crab and shrimp out of the lake at very reasonable prices. You're now in St. Tammany Parish, which has various small cities, towns, and attractions.

I-10 runs east west through the city, I-55 dumps into I-10 West of the city and Pontchartrain; I-59 outflows into I-10 on the East side.

Travel west on I-10 out of Greater New Orleans to Acadiana or "Cajun Country". While there are a few places to get good Cajun in New Orleans, for authenticity go to the source.

River Road is home to a stretch of Plantations. The plantations are scattered along the River Road on both sides of the Mississippi between Greater New Orleans and Baton Rouge. Sugar plantations brought in a nice bit of income in the 18th and 19th centuries, and there are some lovely homes with the archetypal oak colonnades at the entrance. There are also plantations in the French Creole style. The most popular plantations include Oak Alley, Laura, and San Francisco.

You can also arrange for a swamp tour. Spring at Jean Lafitte swamp is a lovely time to see the swamp iris. Also, the first and longest running prison rodeo is just up the way at Angola. Before and after the rodeo, the inmates sell crafts, such as belt buckles, wallets, original paintings, earning money for their families in the process.

For a taste of the less urban aspect of South East Louisiana, continue further down river to Saint Bernard Parish and Plaquemines Parish.

I-55 takes you from Laplace up the Mississippi River ultimately to Chicago. If you take I-10 West, you can end up in Texas, or even California. Head east to Florida. Or take 59 North up the Appalachians.

title: New Orleans


text:
New Orleans/7th, 8th, and Upper 9th Wards

The 7th 8th and Upper 9th Wards section of New Orleans is very seldom visited by anyone outside the city. It is "back of town" (north/away from the river) from the Marigny and Bywater sections. The entire area was hard hit in the Hurricane Katrina flood disaster of 2005, and it is plain to see that the area has not recovered. Some portions have comeback, but other portions have not.

Understand
The area covered in this article includes a few basic subsections.

The westernmost is the old "7th Ward" neighborhood, from Esplanade Avenue to Elysian Fields Avenue. Historically, a predominantly Afro-Creole community developed in the 19th century similar to the neighboring and slightly older Faubourg Tremé; it was home to such early jazz greats as Sidney Bechet (whose childhood home on Marais Street was demolished in 2010). The areas along and near Esplanade Avenue and Bayou Road both have more elegant architecture and are doing better than most of the rest of the area.

Downriver (east) from Elysian Fields to Almonaster is the 8th Ward. Of most interest is the St. Roch neighborhood centered along St. Roch Avenue. It was settled mostly by German Catholic immigrants, but now it is a mixed neighborhood.

Further downriver, from Almonaster to the Industrial Canal, is a section of the Upper 9th Ward. In the "back of town" of this section is one of the post-Katrina redevelopment success stories, the Musicians' Village, with new homes in adaptive tradition influenced styles for families of local musicians and other working-class professionals who lost their homes in the Katrina disaster.

Furthest from the river is the "Florida" area. Most of this area was not developed residentially until the 20th century; part of it over an old city landfill and dump. Problem ridden even before Katrina with crime-ridden housing projects and neighborhoods built atop the old dump suffering from toxins leaking up in the soil, it was one of the worst hit parts of Greater New Orleans in the levee failure disaster in 2005. Five years later portions were still fenced off as uninhabitable, and the rest was rough at best.

A point of controversy has been the unwillingness of the federal government to reopen the housing projects that once provided homes for a good number of the area residents, who now largely remain displaced outside of New Orleans. The unspoken reasoning is that the government would have liked to shut them down, hurricane or no hurricane, as they were very high crime sections of the city. But locals are understandably angry that the projects, which were not terribly hurt by the hurricane, remain closed in a devastated area and a city with such desperate need for housing.

The sections of these neighborhoods closer to St. Claude Avenue have a budding bohemian community with its accompanying edgy, avant garde arts district, and a few far-flung foodie finds for the most adventurous New Orleans explorer. Some hope that in a few years it may experience an urban revival similar to the Bywater, especially if the planned restoration of the Desire streetcar line gets built. However such problems as architectural blight and violent crime still punish residents.

Get in
While it's possible to get here via Bus #88 along St Claude, it's far better to have a car around here, if only because this section of the city is unpredictable when it comes to walking safety. You can park on the side of most streets as the locals do. Crime varies from neighborhood to neighborhood and is difficult for travelers to know what areas are safest.

Eat

Connect
Few options; as of early 2012 the branch Public Library on St. Bernard Avenue was still vacant and gutted with no planned date for reopening announced.

Stay safe
While the city has less crime than it did before Katrina, it is still much higher than most cities in America. The areas closer to St. Claude are generally less dangerous than those further north, but none of this area is 100 percent free of crime. You should follow basic urban precautions, know where you're going, don't go alone especially after dark, as well as come via non-flashy car (preferably one that doesn't have out-of-town plates!). Crime varies from neighborhood to neighborhood which is difficult for travelers to know. One block can be reasonably safe but a 5-minute walk away could be in a rough area. Crime is high due to high poverty rates and racial segregation in the city. There is violent crime, and tourists have been victims.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
New Orleans/Algiers

Algiers is a neighborhood of New Orleans, Louisiana. It is across the Mississippi River from the rest of New Orleans. Connected to the city by bridge and Ferry, it has attractions, restaurants, and bed & breakfasts in an area an easy trip to central New Orleans while retaining some of the feel of a small Louisiana town. In addition to the easy access to the Quarter & Central Business District of New Orleans across the river, Algiers is near other West Bank towns and suburbs, including Gretna.

Understand
While the Algiers section of New Orleans is large, the area of most interest to visitors, Algiers Point, is a small, pleasant walkable neighborhood. Algiers Point is accessible by ferry ($2 for pedestrians in both directions, no cars allowed) going back and forth across the river to the foot of Canal Street, the boundary between New Orleans French Quarter and Central Business District. The beautiful views from the ferry are worth the trip in themselves. Most sites of interest as well as good food and accommodation are within less than a dozen blocks walk from the Ferry landing; many less than half that distance.

Background
Settled in 1719 across the Mississippi from the old city of New Orleans, Algiers is one of the city's oldest neighborhoods. New Orleans annexed Algiers in 1870. A great fire devastated Algiers Point in the 1895; Victorian style residential and small business architecture from the rebuilding period just after the fire still dominate Algiers Point. A few older buildings also survive.

Natives of Algiers are known as "Algerines" (said "AL-jer-eens").

Get in

From the French Quarter or Central Business District, take the Ferry across the river from the foot of Canal Street. Bear in mind that the ferry does not run all night (hours at nolaferry.com) departing from the CBD side on the :15 and :45, and departing from the Algiers side on the hour and half hour.

Driving in on Interstate 10, take the Mississippi River Bridge (Highway 90) across the River, then take the General DeGaulle exit (Louisiana 428) and follow the signs to Algiers Point.

Do

 * Walking tours of nineteenth century architecture of the Point and the "jazz trail" where such Algerine jazz pioneers as Red Allen lived and played.

Eat

Drink

Sleep
If you like the thought of spending the nights in a quiet neighborhood a short commute from the hubbub of the big city, Algiers is an option for visitors with or without a car.

Connect
Tout de Suite has wifi and has a wired rental computer. Limited computer time available at the branch library.

Go next
The ferry at Algiers Point connects to the foot of Canal Street, the boundary of the French Quarter and the Central Business District.

The Crescent City Connection Bridge across the Mississippi connects to the upper end of the Central Business District and the downriver end of Uptown New Orleans; a short drive further on the expressway gets you to Mid-City, and Interstate 10.

Just east (upriver) of Algiers are the towns of Gretna and Terrytown in Jefferson Parish.

Downriver (south) of the far end of Algiers is Belle Chasse in the west bank of Plaquemines Parish

title: New Orleans/Algiers


text:
New Orleans/Audubon and University

The Audubon and University District of New Orleans is the location of the city's famous Audubon Park including the Audubon Zoo, Tulane University and Loyola University New Orleans. Various historic residences and local shops and restaurants are in the streets around these institutions.

This area is at the upper end of the Uptown section of New Orleans, just below the Carrollton neighborhood. It is bisected by the historic St. Charles Avenue Streetcar Line.

Understand
New Orleans was a rapidly growing city in the 19th century, spreading upriver, incorporating what had been farmland, plantations, and villages into the quickly developing boundaries of the city. By 1870 the area was pretty much filled in with the exception of a single plantation, whose boundaries included the majority of what is now this neighborhood. The city bought the land to turn into a park, but nothing much was done for some years until the city decided to hold a World's Fair here, the 1884 "World Cotton Centennial". About the only thing remaining here from the 1884 World's Fair is the curious metallic bolder on the east side of Audubon Park golf course; some locals will call it "the meteorite", but historians have documented it to actually be a huge chunk of iron ore that was on display here during the Fair but it was decided it was too much bother to remove it afterwards. After the Fair, the land between the Mississippi River and St. Charles Avenue was developed as Audubon Park. The area on the back side of St. Charles was divided into new homes for Tulane University and Loyola University, which both had previous smaller campuses elsewhere in the city.

This district also includes a long narrow strip on either side of Broadway (despite the grand name, the street isn't particularly broad). Before it was annexed to New Orleans in 1870, this was the town of Greenville; you may still hear some locals refer to the neighborhood near the river just upriver from the Park as "Greenville". Historic Greenville Hall is on St. Charles Avenue up from Broadway in the middle of what had been the district's third University, St. Mary's Dominican College, from 1910 to 1984; in 1984 the St. Mary's Dominican campus was bought by Loyola and is now a satellite campus of that University.

By car
The area is pretty easy to drive to from other parts of town, but parking at and around the Universities and the Park can be a bit of a problem once you get here.

There's a good sized parking lot for the Audubon Zoo, but even that tends to fill up on holidays and busy weekends.

By streetcar
The St Charles Streetcar is a famous and convenient route along the main street from the edge of the French Quarter through the CBD, all the way through Uptown, bisects the Audubon/University section, and then on to the main section of Carrollton.

By bus
Bus 15, the "Freret Street" Route, runs from the corner of Freret and Broadway to the Central Business District at Canal Street & University Place. The "Freret Jet" is generally the quickest route between the Universities and the CBD & French Quarter; it passes through a section of Central City that is generally ok during the day, but late at night one may feel safer and more comfortable taking the streetcar or a cab.

Bus 11, "Magazine Street", is the quickest way between Audubon Zoo and the French Quarter/Central Business District. Magazine at Canal Street to Magazine Street just below Broadway in Audubon Park near the Zoo entrance.

Bus 16 "South Claiborne" runs along Claiborne Avenue from the corner of Carrollton Avenue down to Canal Street & Magazine.

Bus 10 "Tchoupitoulas" along Tchoupitoulas Street from Magazine & Canal to the East edge of Audubon Park.

Some who visited before Katrina may remember the Broadway Bus line; it has been discontinued, but Bus 32 "Leonidas" now incorporates the part of the route between St. Charles Avenue and Magazine Street, where it ends by the Zoo entrance. The other end of the Leonidas line is at Esplanade & Carrollton in Mid-City, making it the quickest transit route from this part of town to City Park and the New Orleans Museum of Art. The Leonidas line goes through some rather troubled parts of the Hollygrove section on the way, and that the line only runs less than once an hour.

See

 * The Butterfly. A park along the Mississippi River front, on the other side of the Zoo.
 * The Butterfly. A park along the Mississippi River front, on the other side of the Zoo.
 * The Butterfly. A park along the Mississippi River front, on the other side of the Zoo.

Buy

Budget

Drink

Connect
Wi-fi offered at some of the coffee houses listed above.

Stay safe
This is generally one of the safest sections of New Orleans. However criminals sometimes hunt for individuals with their guard down especially late at night. Lone students wandering dark streets after too much to drink are particularly tempting targets for them, so play it safe and call a cab or a friend.

Go next
The Carrollton neighborhood is adjacent just up river; much is within walking distance, and the further parts of Carrollton just a short streetcar ride up. St. Charles and its famous streetcar line also link the Audubon and University section to the French Quarter and Central Business District at the far downriver end, passing through Uptown on the way.

title: New Orleans/Audubon and University


text:
New Orleans/Bywater

The Bywater is a portion of New Orleans down the Mississippi River from the French Quarter and the Faubourg Marigny. Its boundaries are often debated. Most New Orleanians and the city's historic district office describe it as being bounded St. Claude Avenue to the North, the Industrial Canal to the East, Press Street to the West and the Mississippi River to the South. It is also known as the "Upper Ninth Ward" as compared to the "Lower Ninth Ward" which lies East of the Industrial Canal to the St. Bernard Parish line (the downriver limit of the city of New Orleans).

Understand
The Bywater is a neighborhood a bit east (down river) from the French Quarter with a healthy mix of blue collar folks who grew up here, and more recent bohemian arrivals. Artists and musicians relocated here when the French Quarter became too pricy. It is primarily residential but undeniably hip; there are lively pubs, restaurants and randomly placed edgy found-object art scattered throughout the neighborhood. Travelers and residents from other parts of the city are steadily discovering this neighborhood's old-time, laid-back charm.

By foot or bicycle
It is a very pleasant stroll down Royal, Dauphine, or Chartres Streets through the historic Faubourg Marigny; approximately 10 blocks from Esplanade Avenue (the downriver limit of the French Quarter) to the Bywater.

By car
From the French Quarter/CBD, the easiest route is down Rampart Street, which merges (via a small connector called McShane Place) to become St. Claude Avenue just before Elysian Fields. St. Claude forms the main thoroughfare passing through the Bywater and Lower Ninth Ward. Parking is a cinch.

By taxi
Taxis are pretty much a disaster in the Bywater. The cab drivers are under the very much mistaken impression that it is a dangerous neighborhood and won't pick up when hailed (and sometimes even when called). In any rate, calling is really the only option unless you are taking one right in front of Vaughan's Lounge on a Thursday night. Better yet, make friends with a driver, and get his personal number.

By bus
The Bywater is served primarily by two bus lines operated by the New Orleans RTA. That bus #5 would be a dream route for visitors, but unfortunately it never runs. You could wait for days. The St Claude route is every half hour, at least, and a much more reliable way to get to the Marigny (if you don't feel like walking), the French Quarter, and the CBD. Fares are $1.25 each way.

 * 5, Marigny-Bywater: you can theoretically catch this bus on Canal Street at the corner of N. Peters (right in front of the Canal Place tower, across the street from the casino); it goes through the French Quarter on N. Peters/Decatur Streets before taking Elysian Fields back four blocks to Dauphine, and from there follows Dauphine Street through the Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods all the way down to Poland Avenue next to the Industrial Canal. Coming back up the route is the same except the bus follows Royal Street instead of Dauphine.
 * 88, St Claude-Delery: you can catch this bus on any corner of St Claude; it runs along St Claude and Rampart through Marigny, French Quarter, and the CBD to the west, the Lower 9th Ward and Arabi in the east.

See

Do

 * Markey Park. A center of neighborhood activities long hosting many special and recurring events.

Eat

The exotic cocktail of hipsters, long-time locals, and eccentric service industry employees that is present day Bywater has proved a breeding ground for interesting and tasty dining options. In addition to those below, try asking around about the couple of pizza speakeasies lurking in the shadows (that's right, pizza speakeasies). They're not advertised anywhere, and Wikivoyage isn't going to help spoil the fun, so you'll have to talk to locals to find them (if, that is, they indeed exist).

Stay safe
Tourists use general caution. Know where you're going and don't go exploring unfamiliar areas at night, especially by yourself, as muggings are an occasional problem on some of the quieter blocks.

Connect
New Orleans Public Library branch at 913 Alvar Street (between Burgundy and Rampart).

No internet cafes here, but the WiFi at Satsuma Cafe works like a charm.

Go next
Bywater is surrounded by interesting neighborhoods. Ever popular Marigny just upriver (west) is probably too obvious to even be worth mentioning to someone who is already in the Bywater. In the other direction, it's just a hop skip and a jump to the famous Lower 9th Ward across the Industrial Canal. Just north of here, the 7th, 8th, and Upper 9th Wards sections are on the "back" (away from the River) side of St. Claude; worth a visit for the intriguing St Roch Cemetery, as well as to explore its emerging bohemian culture.

title: New Orleans/Bywater


text:
New Orleans/Carrollton

Carrollton is the section of New Orleans that is at the far end of Uptown from the French Quarter, between the Audubon & University District of New Orleans and Jefferson Parish. It is often considered part of Uptown, but it has its own history and traditions (including being a separate city in the 19th century), so it will be treated on its own here. The high ground of the "Carrollton Spur" was fortunately above the great flood which devastated much of the New Orleans area after Hurricane Katrina in 2005, leaving this charming neighborhood intact.

It is at the far end of the St. Charles Streetcar line (the green cars) whose other end is on Canal Street in the Central Business District. Carrollton is near Tulane and Loyola Universities and many students and professors live here and patronize the local businesses. It is a mixed residential/commercial neighborhood, with urban advantages where the trees are taller than most of the buildings. Carrollton has many small business and good restaurants. The food and shopping make it an attractive place for visitors to spend half a day in between streetcar tours.

The streetcar runs through Carrollton on Saint Charles, then turns on to Carrollton Avenue at a place known as The Riverbend. You see a cluster of restaurants, shops and businesses here. There are more a block up, beyond the one bit of late 20th-century architecture visible, the mini-strip mall with the Walgreens, behind which you'll find a small park surrounded by Victorian houses made into specialty shops and restaurants. The two other parts of Carrollton the visitor should know about are Maple Street, which parallels St. Charles, intersecting with Carrollton just inland from the Riverbend, with row of businesses running a pleasant 6 blocks down to Cherokee. The other business street is Oak Street, 4 blocks further inland (away from the river and St. Charles) than Maple extending on the opposite side of Carrollton Avenue. Long less upscale than Maple, there are now many trendy shops and restaurants on Oak as well.

Get in
From the French Quarter, Central Business District, or Uptown, take the St. Charles streetcar, and for the most central location get off at the Riverbend or Maple Street stop. Almost everything mentioned here will be within a maximum of 6 blocks walk in this pedestrian friendly neighborhood.

By car
Take the Carrollton Avenue Exit from Interstate 10, head in the "South" or "Uptown" direction. After a couple miles, at the intersection of Claiborne Avenue, Carrollton Avenue will change abruptly from an urban thoroughfare of 3 lanes each way to one lane in each direction with streetcar tracks down the grassy median and tall oaks and Victorian houses along either side, signalling that you have arrived in the Carrollton neighborhood. Continue another mile to the Riverbend with a cluster of shops where Carrollton ends at the Mississippi and the Streetcar turns on to St. Charles.

Parking is much less difficult than in the French Quarter, but you may sometimes have to park a block or so away from your destination. Notice that some areas have 2-hour parking for non-residents, with clearly marked signs-- giving you enough time for a meal or shopping, but don't leave your car long term.

Pay attention to the fact that many of the old streets, laid out long before the automobile, are one way. Some other side streets are so narrow that they should be one way but aren't, so be prepared to pull to the side to let cars coming the other direction pass if necessary.

See

 * Old Carrollton City Hall. The neoclassical building on Carrollton between Maple an Hampson is now a school.
 * John Kennedy Toole's House: Fans of the novel "A Confederacy of Dunces" can take a walk by the Pulitzer Prize winning author's former home on Hampson at the downtown river corner of Adams. There's a historic marker out front. Look from the sidewalk; it's still a private home.
 * Palmer Park, at Carrollton & Claiborne Avenues and the end of the streetcar line. The last Saturday of each month it hosts the Arts Market of New Orleans from 10AM to 4PM, with tents of arts and crafts vendors, refreshments, and free live music. Occasionally hosts other events and concerts.

Do
Walk around enjoying the Victorian residential architecture and plentiful flowering plants, sip coffee or eat a meal at an outdoor table on Carrollton Avenue while the old streetcars rumble by.

 * http://anthonybeantheater.com/ Anthony Bean Community Theater] 1333 S. Carrollton Ave. Check website for show schedule.

Live music

 * Carrollton Station, 8140 Willow Street, at Dublin a block up from Carrollton
 * Maple Leaf Bar, 8316 Oak, +1 504 866-9359 : Contemporary New Orleans brass bands like Rebirth, (who play here every Tuesday night when they are not traveling); also R&B, Cajun, Zydeco, and more at this funky legendary local music venue -- includes the college crowd when school is in; dancing; late-night shows; casual; funky. (Despite the name, remember it's on Oak Street, 3 blocks up from Carrollton, not Maple).

Buy
The main shopping areas are along Maple Street between Dublin and Cherokee with another cluster of shops on the block of Dublin Street on the river side of Maple, and Oak Street between Monroe and Carrollton with the blocks closest to Carrollton Avenue having the most shops. Some Carrollton favorites include:

Eat
Carrollton has some of New Orleans' finest restaurants; for the number and variety within a short walk of each other it is rivaled only by the French Quarter.

Budget

 * Camelia Grill 626 S. Carrollton just off St. Charles: A favorite with locals and visitors, it's an old style diner done New Orleans style. When there's a line it moves fast, but if it's dauntingly out the door remember that Carrollton has lots of other good eats within a short walk. Some think its best caught off hours and avoided during lunch rush and during Mardi Gras, when many people who don't seem to know anywhere else in town to eat line up here. 9am - midnight daily; stays open F & Sa nights until 2AM.
 * China Orchid, 704 S. Carrollton (in the little mall at Hampson Street). Decent standard Chinese. Lunch & dinner weekdays, Dinner only Sunday.
 * Favori, 7507 Maple at Cherokee. New Orleans neighborhood deli, with "po boy" sandwiches and a few dishes like jambalaya. Eat there or take out; delivers in the neighborhood. Similar to the French Quarter's famous "Verdi Mart", but cleaner and doesn't sell booze. Closed Tuesdays. Tel +1 504 866-8140
 * Jazmine. Vietnamese including New Orleans Vietnamese po-boys, and bubble-tea. 614 S Carrollton Ave. Closed Mondays. Tel +1 504 866-9301
 * La Madeline, Carrollton Av. at St. Charles. Chain of French style cafes, this was one of its first locations and is a local favorite for breakfast; good lunch or dinner as well.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.
 * Tru Burger 8115 Oak. Burgers (Angus beef or veggie), shakes & fries. Daily 11AM-8PM. Wi-fi.

Snacks

 * Maple Street Patisserie 7638 Maple Street: bakery with fresh breads and pastries. Also serves coffee. A neighborhood favorite. Also serves small variety of quality sandwiches for lunch. Tu-Sa 6AM-6PM, Su 6AM-noon.

Coffee shops

 * Rue De La Course, 1140 S. Carollton, at the corner of Oak Street: Watch the people and streetcars go by from one of the outdoor tables, or sip indoors in the building which was built as a bank back in the 1910s. Look up the walls for the architectural detail of bats sipping coffee mugs. Wi-Fi. 6:30AM-midnight
 * Refuel Cafe, 8124 Hampson Street; see listing above.
 * Refuel Cafe, 8124 Hampson Street; see listing above.

Mid-range

 * Basil Leaf, 1438 S. Carrollton. Thai Cuisine
 * Hana Japanese Restaurant, 8116 Hampson. Sushi at the Riverbend.
 * Hana Japanese Restaurant, 8116 Hampson. Sushi at the Riverbend.
 * Hana Japanese Restaurant, 8116 Hampson. Sushi at the Riverbend.
 * Hana Japanese Restaurant, 8116 Hampson. Sushi at the Riverbend.
 * Hana Japanese Restaurant, 8116 Hampson. Sushi at the Riverbend.

Drink

 * Boucherie 8115 Jeanette. Mentioned above at "eat", the innovative small restaurant is also popular for quality cocktails.
 * Bruno's, Maple Street & Hillary, Old style college bar that's been here since the 1930s, attracts an older crowd early evenings and a young one late.
 * Cooter Brown's', 509 S. Carrollton. At the riverbend, just towards the levee from where the St. Charles Streetcar turns on to Carrollton Avenue. One of the city's best beer selections, usually at least a few dozen on tap and hundreds in bottles. Also makes burgers & cheese fries through the night.
 * Cooter Brown's', 509 S. Carrollton. At the riverbend, just towards the levee from where the St. Charles Streetcar turns on to Carrollton Avenue. One of the city's best beer selections, usually at least a few dozen on tap and hundreds in bottles. Also makes burgers & cheese fries through the night.

Connect

 * Nix Branch, New Orleans Public Library, 1401 S. Carrollton Avenue (at Willow) Use an hour time on computers with internet access; $3 for visitors. M-Th 10AM - 6PM, Sa 10AM-5PM
 * PJ's Coffee, 7624 Maple. Coffee house has bring-your-own-computer wireless access. Open 6AM-11PM daily.
 * Rue de la Course, 1140 S. Carrollton. In shop Wi-Fi. 6:30AM - midnight
 * Zotz Coffeehouse, 8210 Oak Street. Computer time rental and internet access. Open til 2AM. +1 504 861-2224

title: New Orleans/Carrollton


text:
New Orleans/Central Business District

The Central Business District (CBD) is the part of New Orleans similar to what many cities call "Downtown" (though in New Orleans this term is often used to refer to a broad portion of the city down river from Canal Street). Just "up" (meaning up the Mississippi River) from the French Quarter is the CBD. Like many other large American cities, this area has skyscrapers and modern office towers housing cooperate and regional offices; however some interesting 19th-century architecture is also preserved. The area also has hotels, residences, restaurants, museums, and art galleries. Located here are the Morial Convention center, Lee Circle, Champion Square, and the gigantic Caesars Superdome. The main avenues are Canal Street, Poydras Street, Loyola Ave and St. Charles Ave.

Some locals and guidebooks still refer to the CBD or the older part of it as the American Quarter, as it was the first part of town settled by large numbers of people from other parts of the United States, as opposed to the older French Quarter.

The portion of the "CBD" nearer the river is often called the "Old Warehouse District" or Warehouse District. In the late 20th century many of the 19th-century warehouses were converted into condominiums, art galleries, and restaurants.

See

 * Art galleries line Julia Street. Evenings of the first Saturday of the month are festive with new exhibits opening.

 * Walking tours of the buildings of the Old American Quarter.
 * Walking tours of the buildings of the Old American Quarter.
 * Walking tours of the buildings of the Old American Quarter.
 * Walking tours of the buildings of the Old American Quarter.

Live entertainment

 * Circle Bar, 1032 St. Charles (on Lee Circle at Howard Avenue). Casual bar with local rock and other bands.
 * FQB, on the 3rd floor of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 921 Canal. Th-Sa nights jazz bands and singers, in the style and atmosphere of an upscale pre-World War II jazz club. They serve good meals as well. Not cheap, but truly swank.

Buy

 * Art at the galleries along Julia Street.

Budget

 * Mothers 401 Poydras. Great "po' boys" (New Orleans style sandwiches); Located at Poydras @ Tchoupitoulas in the lower CBD. Try the "debris" po'boy, made with the bits of beef that remain in the pan once the main cut is removed. The bread pudding is also famous and very good. Weekday lunch crowd of local business people, but the line moves fast.
 * Mothers 401 Poydras. Great "po' boys" (New Orleans style sandwiches); Located at Poydras @ Tchoupitoulas in the lower CBD. Try the "debris" po'boy, made with the bits of beef that remain in the pan once the main cut is removed. The bread pudding is also famous and very good. Weekday lunch crowd of local business people, but the line moves fast.
 * Mothers 401 Poydras. Great "po' boys" (New Orleans style sandwiches); Located at Poydras @ Tchoupitoulas in the lower CBD. Try the "debris" po'boy, made with the bits of beef that remain in the pan once the main cut is removed. The bread pudding is also famous and very good. Weekday lunch crowd of local business people, but the line moves fast.

Coffee and snacks

 * PJ's Coffee popular local chain with locations at 622 Canal Street and 644 Camp Street.

Mid-range

 * Tomas Bistro 755 Tchoupitoulas. Contemporary Creole. Dinner nightly. +1 504 527-0942
 * Tomas Bistro 755 Tchoupitoulas. Contemporary Creole. Dinner nightly. +1 504 527-0942
 * Tomas Bistro 755 Tchoupitoulas. Contemporary Creole. Dinner nightly. +1 504 527-0942
 * Tomas Bistro 755 Tchoupitoulas. Contemporary Creole. Dinner nightly. +1 504 527-0942

Drink

 * Circle Bar, 1032 St. Charles (on Lee Circle at Howard Avenue). Casual joint with good jukebox

Sleep
Numerous hotels are in this part of town.

Go next
The convenient location of the neighborhood, especially the area between Rampart and the river, allows easy access to other parts of town: walk across Canal Street and you're in the upper part of the French Quarter. Take the red Canal Streetcar line away from the river to the attractions of Mid-City, or in the other direction the end of the line and you're at the edge of Faubourg Marigny. The green St. Charles Streetcar line takes you to Uptown and Carrollton. The ferry at the foot of Canal Street (free for pedestrians, $1 for cars) will take you across the Mississippi to the Algiers neighborhood, and give you a scenic budget mini-cruise of the River in the process.

title: New Orleans/Central Business District


text:
New Orleans/Central City

Central City is a section of New Orleans to the west (upriver) of the Central Business District and north (lakewards or away from the river as locals say) from the downriver section of Uptown. Some locals also call it "the 3rd Ward", although legally that designation includes a wider area including much of the Central Business District.

Understand
The area of "Central City" centered around Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard (historically known as Dryades Street) was a center of African-American commerce and culture in the first half of the 20th century. The end of racial segregation ironically hurt the neighborhood, as much of the African-American business as well as people went to other parts of the city. The area perhaps hit bottom in the 1980s, then the first projects to revitalize the historic neighborhood began.

Another blow came in 2005 with Hurricane Katrina. As the city repopulated afterwards, Central City became notorious for shockingly high rates of violent crime, as rival gangs and drug dealers exchanged gunfire in the streets.

Although crime has gone down from mid-2009 to early-2012, Central City is still a dangerous neighborhood, not recommended for casual visitors. Projects to revive the historic O.C. Haley business strip are starting to show fruit, though it still has a long way to go. Those who decide to visit should be particularly aware of their surroundings and inquire about conditions in advance.

By car
A car is without a doubt the best way to get around Central City, if for no other reason than that it is much safer to avoid waiting at bus stops and taking long walks through the neighborhood. Parking is relatively easy. Taxis will drop you off here, but you may have a lot of difficulty getting one to pick you back up, even when called.

By bus
Bus 91 runs from Rampart St at the north end of the French Quarter (a good pick up spot is at Canal and Rampart) and will take you directly along Oretha C Haley Blvd to the art centers and Cafe Reconcile.

See

Do

 * Mardi Gras Indians Uptown Super Sunday Once a year, "Mardi Gras Indian" tribes from the upriver sections of the city have a grand parade, with elaborate costumes and multiple brass bands, starting around LaSalle Street on the downriver side of Washington Avenue. Usually held on a Sunday shortly after St. Joseph's Day (March 19); check with local publications or radio WWOZ 90.7 FM for details if you're in town this time of year.

Eat and drink
There are a couple really good places in Central City, with Cafe Reconcile being by far the most famous and popular, and Ms Hyster's being by far the tastiest food! There are no real bars to speak of, but most establishments have no problem with you bringing in a beer from a liquor store.

Go next
Travel pretty much in any direction and you will see a big contrast (try the upscale old money Garden District just a short drive riverwards/south!), as Central City is much poorer than the surrounding neighborhoods. If you are in New Orleans with an interest in African American history, the Tremé is really the local star.

title: New Orleans/Central City


text:
New Orleans/Eastern New Orleans

Eastern New Orleans, sometimes called "New Orleans East", is a large area of New Orleans to the north east of the older central portion of the city.

Understand
Before World War II, what became Eastern New Orleans consisted mostly of a few small scattered communities in a large expanse of undeveloped land. The area grew in population with major suburban style development from the 1960s to 1990s. In 2005, the area experienced devastating flooding in the levee failure disaster during Hurricane Katrina. Recovery has been slow, and 6 years later the population is still just a fraction of what it was before Katrina.

Little Vietnam is a Vietnamese neighborhood in Eastern Orleans Parish; take Chef Menteur Highway (US-90) past the urban area to the area from Michoud Boulevard to Alcee Fortier Boulevard. There is an exotic collection of Vietnamese shops, groceries, bakeries, and restaurants. New Orleans boasts some of the best Vietnamese food in North America, and the restaurants here are generally very reasonably priced.

Get in

It is pointless to try and get around this area without a car. The principal highway is of course I-10, which most travelers use to rocket through the area without visiting, but US-90 (Chef Menteur Hwy) cuts through or just south of the populated areas, and is the route to take to Little Vietnam or eventually all the way to Fort Pike. Bear in mind that this area is huge—about the size of the entire rest of the city. Plan to be driving for quite a while if going to Fort Pike, closer to the Mississippi State border than it is to the French Quarter. East of Little Vietnam, the district is nearly empty, so don't go out on US-90 with an empty tank.

Eat

While there are quite a few tasty off-the-beaten-path eateries in Eastern New Orleans, the main attraction is the restaurants of Little Vietnam. Authenticity reigns over a cuisine that perhaps has a natural home in a city where French finesse similarly was applied to unfamiliar local ingredients against the backdrop of an existing exotic culinary tradition. The menus in the Vietnamese places are usually bilingual in Vietnamese and English. Eastern New Orleans also has a smattering of seafood, po-boy, and similar restaurants, like most other sections of the city.

Drink
Outside the restaurants (and Dish on Hayne has quite the great "restaurant bar"), the only drinks you will find are at the occasional seedy looking strip club. That's it for bars in these parts.

Go next
Interstate 10 and Chef Menteur Highway (Highway 90) are the main auto routes passing through Eastern New Orleans. They link with the rest of the city to the west; to the east are Slidell and Mississippi. Paris Road connects with Chalmette to the south.

title: New Orleans/Eastern New Orleans