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Isle of Arran

The Isle of Arran is part of Ayrshire in southwest Scotland. It lies in the Firth of Clyde, the broad reach of sea southwest of Glasgow and enclosed by the Ayrshire coast to the east and the Kintyre peninsula to the west. With a 2011 population of 4629, Arran extends for about 20 miles north-south and 10 miles east-west, with all its settlements strung along the coast road, and a hilly interior.

The tourist agency calls it "Scotland in Miniature", though if you try cycling the roads over the hills, or the midges attack, the experience will not feel miniature. However that slogan is a good summary of Arran's balance of highland versus lowland, amenities versus empty glens, and accessibility versus "far away from it all".

Understand
How old is this Earth? Arran is where geologists began to see that it was vastly older than they’d supposed, and was continually re-shaped by sometimes violent forces – look at that huge plug of granite thrust up through the island’s centre. So it was only an eyeblink ago in geological terms when Neolithic settlers erected the great stone circles of Machrie Moor. Arran was, and is, a farming and fishing community, but from the late 18th century it was systematically depopulated, as its residents were evicted, or chose to leave for better prospects elsewhere. Tourism developed in the 19th century as city workers came “doon the water” for their summer holidays along the “Glasgow Riviera” or “Costa Clyde”, in resorts such as Troon, Largs, Ayr, Girvan and Arran. In the late 20th century they moved on to the Med, but good ferry connections brought in different visitors. Traditional life persisted alongside the caravan parks and B&Bs, but the last native Gaelic speakers died out, fortunately having survived into an era when recordings could capture their oral history and distinctive dialect of Arran Gaelic.

The main strip of settlement is on the east coast between Brodick (the ferry port), Lamlash (historically the main village) and Whiting Bay. This can be busy, and is within sight of mainland Ayrshire. Get across the hills to where population is sparse and the view is of Kintyre, it suddenly feels a hundred miles from anywhere.

For the weather outlook see the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) for the Western Highlands, which includes Arran.

Visitor information

 * Visit Arran website

Get in
You reach Arran by ferry, almost always by the Ardrossan-Brodick route; Ardrossan is well-connected with Glasgow. There is also a ferry between Lochranza and Claonaig in Argyll, described below, but this is a very long way round, best considered as part of a road tour of the Western Highlands and Islands. Both routes are operated by Calmac and sail year-round, weather permitting. The ferries are often booked up in summer, especially for the weekend get-away and the Sunday-Monday return. The other problem is elderly ferries that frequently break down, with their modern replacement way overdue and over budget.

Ardrossan-Brodick ferry sails 7AM-7PM every 90 minutes or so Apr-Oct, but with only five sailings Nov-Mar. It carries around 100 cars and 1000 passengers, and has toilets, play area, lounge, tourist information desk, bar, café and restaurant; there is disabled access. Extra peak-period sailings may be on smaller vessels, with size limits for vehicles. Return fares (until end of March 2025) are £37.20 for a car, £9.20 per passenger including the driver, and £4.60 per child 5-15; toddlers, bicycles and dogs go free. Your car must be at the pier 30 minutes ahead (toilets, café and waiting area at both ports), foot passengers are okay till ten minutes ahead. The crossing takes just under an hour. People sometimes take a round-trip without landing, enjoying a scenic lunch on the way. Unless it’s filthy weather, do stay on deck and watch for marine life: dolphins, porpoise, seals and basking sharks are not uncommonly seen. For day-trippers, a tour coach sometimes meets the morning ferry at Brodick and takes you round the island’s main sights then back in time for an afternoon return. Ask at the tourist desk on board.

There is a long stay car park at Ardrossan harbour, £4 per day. So if you're only staying a couple of days, don't have much luggage and don't plan to venture beyond Brodick and Lamlash, consider parking and coming across as a foot passenger.

Campbeltown-Ardrossan ferry calls at Brodick on the 7AM Saturday sailing May-Sept, so this is an alternative way to return from Kintyre to Arran. The westbound ferries from Ardrossan to Campbeltown don’t call, so from Arran you have to sail Lochranza-Claonaig to reach Kintyre.

Ferries may divert to Troon in bad weather, when the usual ferry berth at Ardrossan can be exposed. Until 2024 there was a back-up there, the "Irish berth", but this has become worn and unsuitable for use, so the back-up is now to sail to and from Troon. So check ahead if bad weather is expected. This is separate from the intended diversion to Troon during upgrade of Ardrossan harbour - that project is on hold as costs have spiralled.

Lochranza-Claonaig ferry sails 8 times a day Apr-Oct, taking 30 min. In winter Claonaig jetty is too exposed, so Nov-March has a single daily crossing between Lochranza and Tarbert, taking 90 min. The ferry is a small ro-ro with room for 18 cars and 150 passengers; there’s a small lounge and toilets. Return fares until end of March 2025 are £23.20 for a car, £7 per passenger including the driver, and £3.50 per child 5-15. From Claonaig you can reach Skipness on foot, and Tarbert by bike, see “Go next”. However most visitors take a single ride to tour Kintyre, the Western Highlands, and other islands such as Islay and Jura.

has a little waiting room but that's all. Claonaig on the other shore is just a slipway with no facilities.

Arran is also visited by other ships in summer, but these are excursion cruises not ferries. A charming example is the paddle steamer “Waverley”, the world's oldest sea-going paddle ship, in her 1947 LNER livery.

Get around
The road around the island is the busy A841 on the east side between Lochranza, Brodick and Whiting Bay, and just a lane — but perfectly driveable — from Whiting Bay round the west side back to Lochranza. Two small and scenic roads climb across the hills in the middle. The “String Road” or B880 runs from Brodick to Blackwaterfoot. The “Ross Road” is that quintessential Highland experience, a narrow single track lane with passing places, unsuitable for large vehicles (thus, no bus service). It wends and winds from Lamlash to re-join the main road between Kilmory/Lagg and Sliddery.

Especially in the quieter parts of the island, people are often happy to pick up hitch-hikers who don’t look too weird or muddy, but passing traffic can be very sparse.

By car
Most visitors bring their own vehicle. Fill the tank before coming over: it’s a large island so you may do more mileage than you expected, and filling stations on Arran are few and expensive with Brodick, Lamlash and Whiting Bay your best hope.

Car hire is available from Arran Motors at Bay Garage next to Brodick ferry terminal in Brodick (+44 1770 302839). You can also pick up / drop off at their garage in Whiting Bay. They also have a taxi service and do tours of the island.

Arran Cab Company is the other taxi (+44 7802 542495).

By bus
Bus routes all start from Brodick ferry terminal and ply all the island roads except the Ross Road. So you can get places by bus, but you might not get much of a view through the mud-splashed windows. Buses are operated by Stagecoach West Scotland, under the aegis of SPT (Strathclyde Partnership for Transport) so bus stops and timetables may carry either logo. See SPT for the timetable. Printed timetables are on the ferries, at Brodick ferry terminal, on the buses themselves and from convenience stores. The routes are: This means that trips around the island can be put together by changing at Blackwaterfoot, the antipodes of the network:
 * 322 Brodick - String Road - Blackwaterfoot (M-Sa roughly hourly, four on Sunday)
 * 323 Brodick - Lamlash - Whiting Bay - Kildonan - Lagg - Blackwaterfoot (M-Sa roughly hourly to Whiting Bay, with six continuing to Blackwaterfoot; Sunday six to Whiting Bay and four to Blackwaterfoot)
 * 324 Brodick - Castle - Corrie - Sannox - Lochranza – Pirnmill - Blackwaterfoot (M-F seven per day, five on Saturday, four on Sunday)
 * 324 + 322 for North Island circuit via String Road
 * 323 + 322 for South Island circuit via String Road
 * 324 + 323 to go all the way round.

The buses don’t carry bikes. All buses are “Hail and Ride” – they’ll stop for you anywhere. Don’t set off back too late, as few buses run after 21:00.

Arran has a Rural MyBus scheme, an on-demand supplement to regular buses, organised by SPT. See Scotland for eligibility rules. Since Arran has a bus service on just about every road that a bus can drive along, there's little call for it on the island, but there's a useful mainland connection (M22 once a day M-Sa) from Irvine via Stevenston and Saltcoats to meet the ferry at Ardrossan.

By bicycle
Bicycles travel free on Calmac ferries. The main road from Brodick to Corrie is too busy for an enjoyable ride, but if your lungs and sinews can take it, the String Road and Ross Road are sublime.
 * Arran Adventures the activity centre within Auchrannie Resort hires mountain bikes and in summer conducts guided mountain bike tours.
 * Arran Adventures the activity centre within Auchrannie Resort hires mountain bikes and in summer conducts guided mountain bike tours.

Brodick

 * Brodick town centre is like a dozen other "Costa Clyde" resorts, with a line of Victoriana along the sea front, and a gush of traffic whenever a ferry arrives.
 * Goat Fell rears up behind the castle, see below for the walking trail.
 * Glen Rosa stone row is three tall stones in the fields west of the castle. It's likely that farming has shifted their original alignment.
 * Saltwater Gallery is by the pedestrian entrance to the castle, open year-round Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM.
 * Glen Rosa stone row is three tall stones in the fields west of the castle. It's likely that farming has shifted their original alignment.
 * Saltwater Gallery is by the pedestrian entrance to the castle, open year-round Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM.

South

 * Lamlash three miles south of Brodick is sheltered by Holy Island so it has the safest anchorage and was the traditional port of arrival. It still has the island admin and hospital though Brodick outgrew it once the ro-ro ferry port was developed.

 * is by the main road, but overgrown - park in the pull-in 50 yards north. Four granite boulders guard the site of a burial chamber, now gone.
 * is a short boat-ride from Lamlash. In summer, boat trips sail hourly, for bird-watching, hikes over the small island, and great views over the Firth towards Ailsa Craig and the Mull of Kintyre. And, last thing you expected to find here, there’s a Tibetan Buddhist community. At the north end where the boats land is the "Interfaith Centre", with visitor information and a café, open in summer more or less whenever the boats are sailing. The track down the island is dotted with Buddhist iconry then at the south end is the retreat, where monks live in seclusion and you can’t visit. This community is often loosely described as a monastery, though that term properly only applies to their mother house, the Samye Ling Monastery above Garvald in Dumfriesshire.
 * is more likely a prehistoric dun, though a nearby grave had Viking grave-goods.
 * is a waterfall where Glenashdale Burn tumbles into the glen. There's a loop trail from Whiting Bay.
 * are a pair of burial cairns from about 5000 BC, easiest reached by the trail past the waterfall.
 * is the local name for two standing stones near former burial cists. They might be Neolithic or Bronze Age.
 * Kildonnan Castle is the ivy-clad stump of a 13th-century bastion, used by Scottish royalty as a hunting lodge. It's quarter of a mile east of Seal Sands Campsite.
 * is the small island a mile south; it's privately owned. The lighthouse was built in 1790, automated in 1990 and is still in use. The pyramid seen far to the south is Ailsa Craig.
 * Chirotherium was the monster that left its pawprint on the beach 240 million years ago, a relative of the crocodiles. You need the tide to be at least halfway out, then from the car park on the lane by Kildonnan head west, the print is in the rocks 50 yards further.
 * Chirotherium was the monster that left its pawprint on the beach 240 million years ago, a relative of the crocodiles. You need the tide to be at least halfway out, then from the car park on the lane by Kildonnan head west, the print is in the rocks 50 yards further.

North

 * : the track starts from Shore Road in the middle of the village, and they're best visited as part of a steep trek to the top of the hill. Parking at the foot of the trail is very limited.
 * Isle of Arran Distillery, the original, is in Lochranza, see Drink.
 * Cock of Arran is the north end of the island, named for a rock formation resembling a cockerel's head that has tumbled to lie on the shore. The entire north end suffered a great landslide in the 18th century, with a roar that they probably heard on Krakatoa, so the path is a scramble across the boulders. The red rocks are Old Red Sandstone so they predate most lifeforms and fossils are rare.
 * is a sea cave along the hike around Cock of Arran. It was created when sea levels were higher and is now dry at all tides. Look for the 18th-century etching of a sailing ship just inside on the right. The cave is large, use your mobile flashlight, but the Ossian of legend would barely have got his pinkie finger into it.
 * Sailor's Grave half a mile west of the ferry pier is the resting place of John Maclean, died 12 Aug 1854. He may have died of cholera aboard his ship anchored at Lochranza, or at least the villagers feared he had, as it was amidst a national epidemic. So his body wasn't allowed into any parish graveyard but isolated here. Passers-by have added pebbles.
 * Sailor's Grave half a mile west of the ferry pier is the resting place of John Maclean, died 12 Aug 1854. He may have died of cholera aboard his ship anchored at Lochranza, or at least the villagers feared he had, as it was amidst a national epidemic. So his body wasn't allowed into any parish graveyard but isolated here. Passers-by have added pebbles.

West

 * Wildlife: always be on the lookout, especially in these more rugged northern and western parts. You might see Golden Eagles, Hen Harriers, diving birds, ravens, birds-of-passage eg waxwings and crossbills, and occasional windblown strays such as the white-tailed sea eagle and long-tailed skua. Deer are common and have no road sense. Red squirrels may be spotted in the woodlands. Seals often haul out on the shore, especially at Blackwaterfoot. This side of the island has the best views, over Kintyre, and sees the sunset.
 * Sea caves are visible in the cliffs along the north and west shores of Arran, now high and dry, with the coast road below them. They were formed at the end of the last Ice Age 10,000 to 6000 years ago when sea levels rose, but the weight of ice still depressed the land, until it pinged upwards in "orthostatic rebound". Raised beaches are also seen, some 100 feet above present sea levels.
 * Pirnmill has a long sand and shingle beach, though it's covered at high tide. The village is named for the mill that from 1780 to 1840 made pirns, wooden rods for winding thread for weaving (like a bobbin but fixed in position) in the Paisley looms. In the hills behind, see the hamlet of Penrioch and the abandoned houses of High Pirnmill. You can get a car or bike up the track as far as Penrioch, otherwise walk.
 * Auchencar Stone or Dragon's Tooth is a tall megalith in the field by the turnoff to Thyme restaurant.
 * is a Neolithic or Bronze Age burial cairn. The 15 main stones look too mismatched for a ritual circle, and some of the rockery has been dumped later for field clearance.
 * is reached by a hike from Drumadoon. It's another sea cave with two branches, and the recesses have ancient carvings, perhaps early medieval Christian. These have been vandalised and a metal gate was placed across the opening, but you'll probably find it open. The "king" is a modern myth that this is one of the many caves where the fugitive Robert the Bruce was inspired by the efforts of a spider, though if it happened at all it was on Rathlin Island off Antrim. Equally likely it was the spider that was inspired and set spinning with renewed vigour, by watching Robert fruitlessly entering damp depressing cave after cave in search of a better military strategy.
 * Drumadoon Cursus inland from the cave remains a puzzle but is under excavation from 2023. It's a long Neolithic groove or ditch, but whether ritual, sporting or agricultural is unknown: Drumadoon is the best example of a cursus in Britain.
 * Doon Fort is Iron Age; it's on the coast north of Shiskine Golf Club, backed by cliffs and defended by a stout wall. The wall is turfed over so it's camouflaged.
 * Torrylin Cairn is a Neolithic burial chamber below Kilmory Haven campsite.
 * is reached by a track near Lagg Distillery. It's said to be a naturist / nudist beach, but how can anyone tell? It’s usually deserted apart from the cows, being draughty, dung-splattered and without any amenities. Still it should be nice and quiet if you decide to get your kit off.
 * is reached by a track near Lagg Distillery. It's said to be a naturist / nudist beach, but how can anyone tell? It’s usually deserted apart from the cows, being draughty, dung-splattered and without any amenities. Still it should be nice and quiet if you decide to get your kit off.

Do

 * What's on? Read Arran Banner, published Friday.

Hiking

 * OS Landranger map 69 covers the entire island. All the coast is walkable, though the Brodick – Corrie section is too close to the main road to escape traffic noise. For hiking suggestions (including GPS coordinates and route descriptions) see Walk Highlands hiking guide.

 * is the island’s highest peak at 874 m (2867 ft), so it’s a “Corbett”. The usual ascent is from Cladach near Brodick Castle gates. This trail is well-waymarked and well-trodden, and takes 5-6 hours there and back. Nothing technical, but there’s a long scramble of scree near the summit. A steeper but shorter route ascends from Corrie, past some fine waterfalls, and you could use the bus to climb one way and descend the other. The view from the top sweeps over Ayrshire, Galloway, Ailsa Craig, Kintyre, Islay and Jura, Bute, and the hills above Loch Lomond. That’s on a clear day of course. On a misty drizzly day, let’s hope you took a compass bearing before you plunged into the gloom.
 * Glen Cloy just south-west of Brodick is a good scenic walk, 1½ miles starting by Auchrannie Resort to the bowl of surrounding hills.
 * is 2 miles from Lamlash, or you can drive to within half a mile. Usual beach life: birds, seals, squidgy things in rock pools, and you might spot a nuclear submarine, as their base lies further up the Firth. There’s also the remains of a boom defence signal station from World War II.
 * Whiting Bay has walks to the Giants Grave (1½ mile round trip), Glenashdale Falls (7 miles round trip) and Kings Cross Point (3 miles round trip).
 * The Coastal Way is a set of paths for walking around the entire island along the coast divided into 12 sections. The coastal section between North Sannox and Lochranza is not suitable for bikes as it involves light scrambling especially around the Cock of Arran.

Golf

 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.
 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.
 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.
 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.
 * Crazy golf is on Main St in Brodick.

Other

 * Five Ferries is a cycle route of 51 miles, starting in Ardrossan, crossing Arran to Kintyre then Bute and back to the mainland at Wemyss Bay (less commonly in reverse). There are steep gradients along the route and it's often done as a charity challenge. From the first ferry landing at Brodick you have 75 min to cover 14 miles to catch the second ferry at Lochranza, otherwise your life unravels. You'll feel confident at the ten-mile mark, then you encounter the two-mile climb out of Sannox. The adult fare until end of March 2024 is £15.15. Bikes are free on Calmac ferries but warn them if there's a large group of you: this is important for the small Lochranza ferry, assuming you catch it. And of course you can make the same circuit by motorbike or car.
 * Bowling Greens, Lamlash and Brodick - Visitors are welcome to these seasonal facilities, you are asked to wear flat shoes. There is normally someone on hand to show you how to play if you've never tried before. The greens are only open in good weather to avoid wear. £3 per adult £1.50 for concessions.
 * Swim at Auchrannie Resort in Brodick or the Kinloch Hotel in Blackwaterfoot. Minimum ages to swim solo are 12 at Auchrannie and 17 at the Kinloch.
 * Cinema: Screen Machine is a mobile cinema that tours the Highlands and Islands. It occasionally visits Brodick, parking at the Auchrannie Resort.
 * Swim at Auchrannie Resort in Brodick or the Kinloch Hotel in Blackwaterfoot. Minimum ages to swim solo are 12 at Auchrannie and 17 at the Kinloch.
 * Cinema: Screen Machine is a mobile cinema that tours the Highlands and Islands. It occasionally visits Brodick, parking at the Auchrannie Resort.

Events

 * Ultra Rat Race is an ultra-marathon of 59 miles (100 km) over two days, next held 20-21 April 2024.
 * Arran Mountain Festival is next held 17-20 May 2024. It includes the Goatfell Hill Race, 15 km with ascent and descent of 874 m on rough mountain tracks - the course record is 74 min.
 * Arran Folk Festival is next held on 7-9 June 2024.
 * Arran Whisky Festival is held at Lochranza and Lagg Distilleries, with the next on 28-30 June 2024.
 * Summer Ceilidhs are held in Brodick Wednesday evenings July-Aug and in Lochranza Thursday evenings Aug.
 * Arran Agricultural Show is held at Glenkiln Farm, Lashlash. The next is probably 7 Aug 2024, tbc.
 * Brodick Highland Games are held in Ormidale Park, with the next on Sa 10 Aug 2024.
 * McLellan Arts Festival is probably next held 23 Aug - 7 Sep 2024, tbc.
 * Festival of Food and Drink is in September, with the next probably 11-22 Sept 2024, tbc.
 * Music Arran hold classical concerts monthly throughout the year, usually in Brodick village hall.

Eat
As well as those listed, most of the hotels serve meals to non-residents, see Sleep.

Splurge

 * Auchrannie Resort has three restaurants, all with bars and terraces / patios for outdoor dining.
 * - Eighteen69 is in the glasshouse with sea views and serves Scottish tapas. It's closed until 21 March 2024 but its bar remains open.
 * - Brambles is a seafood restaurant and grill, open daily 7:30AM-9:30PM.
 * - Cruize Bar Brasserie is modern cuisine with a children's menu, open daily 7:30AM-9:30PM.

Drink

 * See also Sleep: most hotels have public bars with food, including the three within Auchrannie Resort.

 * Arran Botanical Drinks is the trading name of Isle of Arran Gin Co, at Cladach by the entrance to Brodick Castle. No tours.
 * Arran Botanical Drinks is the trading name of Isle of Arran Gin Co, at Cladach by the entrance to Brodick Castle. No tours.
 * Arran Botanical Drinks is the trading name of Isle of Arran Gin Co, at Cladach by the entrance to Brodick Castle. No tours.

Basics

 * Stock up before you come over on the ferry, including on fuel. There’s an Asda in Ardrossan by the pier.

 * Brodick has two Co-op supermarkets and Lamlash has one, all open daily from 7AM-10PM.
 * Whiting Bay has two grocery stores, one at the Gulf petrol station, and one in the village centre which also has hot food to go and a deli. Just outside Whiting Bay, Kirkend Nurseries sells exotic and hard-to-get food and old-fashioned sweets as well as plants.
 * Kildonan Hotel has a shop selling basics such as bread, milk and tinned food.
 * Farmers' market at Kilmory Community Hall is on the last Saturday of every month.
 * Blackwaterfoot has a grocery store, open daily (but closed from 1PM on Wednesday). Kinloch Hotel Bakery sells pizzas (closed Wednesday and Sunday). Galbraiths is a butcher shop.
 * Pirnmill Village Store and Post Office has food and alcohol.
 * Lochranza campsite sells basics.

Budget

 * Wild camping is permitted in many places, thanks to the Right to Access laws.

Mid-range

 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.
 * Kildonan Hotel is next to Seal Shore Campsite and has a bistro and public bar.

Connect
As of Oct 2023, the east coast from Brodick through Lamlash to Whiting Bay has 4G from Three, a basic mobile signal from EE and Vodaphone, but nothing from O2. The southwest coast has Vodafone up as far as Blackwaterfoot, but there's no signal in the north or northwest. 5G has not reached Arran.

Places with public internet include:
 * Arran Library in Brodick (open Tu Th F 10AM-5PM, Sa 10AM-1PM).
 * Auchrannie Resort will let you onto their Wifi for the price of a drink in the Bar.
 * Out of town try Kinloch Hotel in Blackwaterfoot or Lochranza Hotel.

Stay safe
Arran is very safe but has the usual hazards: road traffic, water safety, hill-walking especially if the weather closes in, the occasional aggressive drunk, petty theft, and so on. Common nuisances, as elsewhere in western Scotland, are sunburn, midge bites, blisters and hypothermia, sometimes all on the same day.

Pharmacies are in Brodick (+44 1770 302250), Lamlash (+44 1770 600275) and Whiting Bay (+44 1770 700584), all closed on Sunday.

Arran Medical Group has five surgeries. In an emergency call 999.

Go next

 * Most visitors return via Ardrossan. No reason to linger there, but in Alloway near Ayr  is the Robert Burns Heritage Park. From Girvan further south boat trips sail to Ailsa Craig.
 * The ferry from Lochranza to Claonaig lands you within 3 miles of Skipness castle, and ten miles from Tarbert, so they can both be visited on day trips from Arran. Stretching south for 40 miles is the  Kintyre peninsula, with the small island of Gigha just west, and the Mull of Kintyre almost within shouting distance of Northern Ireland.
 * Tarbert has a ferry to the Cowal peninsula, a scenic route back to Glasgow, also to Islay (from which you reach Jura), and to Colonsay.

title: Isle of Arran


text:
Isle of Bute

The Isle of Bute (Scottish Gaelic: Eilean Bhòid or An t-Eilean Bhòdach) is an island in the Firth of Clyde, off the west coast of Scotland. Rothesay is the main town. It is part of the "Costa Clyde" or "Glasgow Riviera", the string of little resorts stretching down the Clyde coast from Gourock through Ayr to Girvan. With only a short ferry crossing from Wemyss Bay on the mainland, it's popular with day trippers from Glasgow and never feels "away from it all".

Understand
Administratively the island is part of Argyll and Bute in the Scottish Highlands, but it actually forms the namesake of a traditional Scottish county (Buteshire) along with Arran and the Cumbraes. Indeed the Highland fault line runs through it, from Rothesay through freshwater Loch Fad and Loch Quien to Scalpsie Bay on the south coast. So most of the island, west of this line, is geologically Highland, but it's of no great height, and Bute is lowland in nature.

In 2021, Bute had a population of 6021.

Visitor information
The tourist office is next to Rothesay ferry pier, open daily 9:30AM-5PM.
 * Visit Bute website

Get in

 * Beautiful Rothesay, your scenery is most grand, You cannot be surpassed in fair Scotland.
 * Tis healthy for holiday makers to go there, For the benefit of their health, by inhaling the pure air.
 * - William McGonagall, who else

is the usual arrival point on Bute, via the Calmac ferry from Wemyss Bay 30 miles west of Glasgow. It takes 35 min, and sails at least hourly every day year-round 7AM-8PM. Return fares (until end of March 2025) are £27.10 per car, £7.60 per adult passenger including driver, £3.90 per child. There's no booking on this route but you must be at the pier at least 20 min before sailing.

With your own boat, you can berth either at Rothesay marina or the quieter Port Bannatyne.

on the Cowal Peninsula is linked by ferry to Rhubodach, at the end of the road on the north of the island. You'd only come this way as part of a scenic tour of Argyll. The ferry runs daily year-round every 30 min 6AM-9PM (Sunday from 8:30AM), taking barely five minutes, with no booking. Return fares until end of March 2025 are £14.30 per car, £2.90 per adult passenger including driver, £1.50 per child aged 5-15. The sea channel is only 300 yards wide, so it's an expensive crossing in terms of £ per mile.

See for details of:
 * - trains from Glasgow Central to Wemyss Bay,
 * - road routes, the usual approach being westbound M8 > A8 > A78,
 * - connections from Glasgow Airport or Prestwick.

Bute Airfield is near Kilchattan Bay 5 miles south of Rothesay. It's a grass strip of 500 m, daylight hours only, no fuel. And you'll need to have ground transport arranged.

Get around
West Coast Motors run bus services on the island. All bus routes pass along Rothesay Victoria Street near the ferry pier. Those most relevant to visitors are 90, 490 and 493, which follow the coast south past Ardencraig Gardens, Ascog Fernery and Mount Stuart to Kilchattan Bay. These run hourly year-round M-Sa.

Buses 90, 477, 479 and 490 run up the east coast via Port Bannatyne to Rhubodach ferry pier, for Colintraive on the Cowal peninsula. Bus 477 crosses to Colintraive by ferry and winds around Loch Riddon via Auchenbreck then south through Kames to Portvadie, for ferries to Tarbert in Argyll. Bus 479 also crosses to Colintraive and from Auchenbreck turns west to Dunoon, for ferries to Gourock thence trains to Glasgow. From Port Bannatyne, buses 90, 490 and 493 turn inland, to Ettrick Bay on Bute's west coast. Routes 488, 491, 492 and 493 loop around Rothesay town to various residential areas, the college, and local hospital.

Bicycle is an excellent way to explore the island, as the distances aren't great and it's not hilly. Bike hire is available from The Bike Shed near the ferry terminal in Rothesay, +44 1700 505515.

Taxi operators are J & J Zan-Kreyser (+44 1700 504499) and McBrides (+44 1700 503000).

See

 * Serpentine Road slaloms down Canada Hill east side of town. There's a viewpoint near the top.
 * is the ruin of a church from circa 1300.
 * Ascog Hall Fernery alas has closed down.
 * is the second largest settlement on the island, though little more than ribbon development along the coast road and stony beach. The marina is sheltered - visitor berths are on Pontoon D, book your berth on +44 1700 503116.
 * dates from 1700 but was almost completely rebuilt in Baronial style in 1897. It's a private residence, no tours.
 * Kames Castle half a mile south was built in the 16th century, and similarly restored as a private residence.
 * Kyles of Bute are the straits that separate the northern end of Bute from the Cowal Pensinsula. They're a designated National Scenic Area. You can see their eastern arm from the coast road to Rhubodach ferry pier.
 * is 13 m in diameter with four standing stones and three stumps. Its age is uncertain. A second circle was blown up by the landowner circa 1810.
 * is sandy, in a sheltered horseshoe bay on the west coast along A844. Butefest is held here.
 * Kyles of Bute are the straits that separate the northern end of Bute from the Cowal Pensinsula. They're a designated National Scenic Area. You can see their eastern arm from the coast road to Rhubodach ferry pier.
 * is 13 m in diameter with four standing stones and three stumps. Its age is uncertain. A second circle was blown up by the landowner circa 1810.
 * is sandy, in a sheltered horseshoe bay on the west coast along A844. Butefest is held here.
 * was built in the 7th century. It is well ruined but the stone slab at its east end is probably the altar. To get here follow the lane from Ettrick Bay up the coast to its dead-end at Glecknabae, then hike 1½ miles along the farm track. "St Michael's Grave" is a collapsed Neolithic burial chamber just south of the chapel. Cairnbaan Chambered Cairn is a better-preserved site reached by a detour into the woods halfway along that track.
 * or "Kingarth" has three standing stones of an original seven. One is a strange puff-mushroom shape, or perhaps it's a doorknob for the underworld.
 * Largizean Stones across the fields half a mile west are three aligned whinstones.
 * is just a single gnarly stump, you only come for the views. It was probably an L-plan tower house of the 16th century. Here and there in the fields around, you notice traces of a disappeared medieval village.
 * is an extensive ruin, mostly Norman. A monastery stood here in the 6th to 7th century but only scraps of it remain. After the Reformation of 1560 the priest refused either to become protestant or to quit the church and manse. The authorities left him alone in an almighty sulk while the place fell to rack and ruin around his ears. Near Kilchattan turn off A844 onto Plan Road south past the airfield; park up at the road end and walk along the track.
 * Scalpsie Bay on the southwest coast is a haul-out point for Grey or Atlantic seals, Halichoerus grypus. The binomial means "hook nose sea pigs" for their distinctive broad nose; the common or harbour seal (Phoca vitulina) has a puppy-dog nose. Please don't disturb them in any way.
 * Dunagoil is a vitrified Iron Age fort half a mile west of St Blane's, follow the footpath. Like several other forts of that era, it has at some point burnt so furiously that its stones fused into glass. The name means "hill of the foreigners", same as Donegal in Ireland, and it sits on a volcanic outcrop. Nearby are the scrappy remains of a smaller fort and a burial cist.
 * Rubh' an Eun Lighthouse on the southeast corner of Bute is a minor light, which together with the light on Little Cumbrae indicates the channel for the Clydeside ports.
 * is an island one mile west of Bute, still farmed but nowadays uninhabited. It has sea caves, a Bronze Age burial cist, and an early medieval monastery. St Marnock (d 625 AD) was the monk for whom Kilmarnock is named. It's not known if he ever stayed here, but the monastery was dedicated to him, and had a "writing school" teaching novices how to write elaborate script. The island is private but boat trips sometimes land by permission.

Do

 * The cinema is within the Discovery Centre by the ferry pier.
 * Shinty: Bute play in Mowi National Division, the second tier. Their home ground is King George's Field south side of Rothesay. The playing season is April-Sept.
 * Port Bannatyne Petanque Club meets May-Sep in that village's park, Wednesday at 7PM and Sunday at 2PM.
 * Golf: Rothesay GC is on Canada Hill east side of town. Bute GC is nine holes, south at Kingarth near the airfield. Port Bannatyne GC in that village is an oddity, a 13-hole course: you play 12, then the first 5 again, then the 18th.
 * Port Bannatyne Petanque Club meets May-Sep in that village's park, Wednesday at 7PM and Sunday at 2PM.
 * Golf: Rothesay GC is on Canada Hill east side of town. Bute GC is nine holes, south at Kingarth near the airfield. Port Bannatyne GC in that village is an oddity, a 13-hole course: you play 12, then the first 5 again, then the 18th.
 * The West Island Way is a long-distance footpath that traverses Bute, 32 miles in all. It's all easy going, pick your own itinerary, but the suggested stages are: Day 1 circuit of Kilchattan Bay, 5 miles; Day 2 Kilchattan to Port Bannatyne, 11.5 miles; Day 3 Port Bannatyne to Rhubodach 8.5 miles; Day 4 back to Port Bannatyne.
 * Five Ferries is a cycle route of 51 miles, starting in Ardrossan, crossing via Arran to Kintyre then via Colintrave to Bute and back to the mainland via Rothesay to Wemyss Bay. It's often done as a charity challenge. If you manage to connect with the fourth ferry at Colintraive you're almost home safe, as there are no more gradients before you and the final ferry from Rothesay is frequent. In 2023/24 the adult fare is £15.15, no booking needed but warn Calmac if there's a large group of you — this is important for the small Lochranza and Cowal ferries.
 * ButeFest is a music festival in late July at Ettrick Bay on the west coast. The next is F-Su 26-28 July 2024.
 * Bute Highland Games are held at The Stadium sports ground, on High St half a mile south of Rothesay town centre, with the next on Sa 24 Aug 2024.
 * Bute Highland Games are held at The Stadium sports ground, on High St half a mile south of Rothesay town centre, with the next on Sa 24 Aug 2024.

Buy

 * Co-op Food main store is on Bridge Street 200 yards west and a block inland from Rothesay ferry pier. It's open daily 7AM-10PM. There's a smaller Co-op on Montague St a block inland from the pier, same hours. Londis is midway between the two Co-ops.
 * Macqueen's is a butcher selling hand-made gourmet sausages, haggis and black pudding, at 1 Bishop St near the pier. It's open M Tu Th F 7:30AM-5PM, Sa 7:30AM-3:30PM.
 * Bute Smokehouse produces salmon, trout and kippers. It's at 111 Montague St, open M-Sa 11AM-1PM.

Eat

 * India Pavilion at 7 Argyle St is open daily 2-11PM.
 * The Bonnie Clyde at 29 Gallowgate has an eclectic menu, open M-Sa 10AM-10PM, Su 11AM-9PM.
 * The Kettledrum is a slick little cafe at 32 East Princes St, open W-Sa noon-8PM, Su noon-6PM.
 * The Anchor Tavern is your best chance of a meal in Port Bannatyne. It's at 33 Marine Rd, open daily.
 * The Kettledrum is a slick little cafe at 32 East Princes St, open W-Sa noon-8PM, Su noon-6PM.
 * The Anchor Tavern is your best chance of a meal in Port Bannatyne. It's at 33 Marine Rd, open daily.

Drink

 * Durrum a doo a durrum-day, durrum a doo a daddy o,
 * Durrum a doo a durrum-day, the day we went tae Rothesay o! - trad ballad

 * Rothesay pubs were designed for Glaswegians to come "doon the water", get bevvied, take a leak in the Victorian gents, then stagger straight back onto the ferry. The strip includes Criterion Bar (up for sale in 2023), Islander Bar, The Grapes, The Galatea, Taverna Bar, Black Bull Inn, The Golfers and Palace Bar.
 * Isle of Bute Distillery makes gin and spiced rum. They're at 65 High St in Rothesay and offer tours. In 2022 they were due to move into the larger Bute Yard behind, and re-open the island brewery, but COVID held this up.
 * Spirit of Bute is a micro-distillery at 79 Montague St. Their shop is open W-Sa 11AM-4:30PM.

Sleep

 * We aa lay doon tae tak oor ease, when somebody happened for tae sneeze,
 * And waukened half a million fleas, that et us alive in Rothesay o. - trad ballad

 * B&Bs dot the coast road. Those within a mile of Rothesay ferry pier are Sunnyside at 12 Argyle Place, Ivybank Villa on Westland Rd, Summer's Bay Hotel at 23 Battery Place, Highlander House at 28 Battery Place, and St Ebba at 37 Mountstuart Rd.
 * Esplanade Hotel is more like a bar and restaurant with rooms, as most visitors are just here for a meal. It's at 4 High St facing the ferry pier.
 * Bute Backpackers has basic private rooms (£35 ppn) and doesn't have a dorm. It's at 36 Argyle St, half a mile west of the ferry pier.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.
 * Mount Stuart House runs a string of self-catering properties around the island, all decent enough, but alas there are no guest rooms within the fabulous house.

Connect
As of June 2023, Rothesay has 4G from all UK carriers, but the rest of Bute has no signal.

Go next

 * Ah said, “Ah think we should elope.” So we went and jined the Band of Hope,
 * But the polis widny let us stop another oor in Rothesay o.

The obvious route is back to the mainland via Rothesay and Wemyss Bay, when Glasgow and the whole of lowland Scotland lie before you. This is also the best route to the Isle of Arran, by ferry from Ardrossan.

From the short ferry crossing of Rhubodach-Colintraive, either go north to Loch Long, Inveraray and Loch Lomond, or loop south again to Portvadie, for ferries to Tarbert on Loch Fyne. From there the main road leads to Campbeltown on the Mull of Kintyre. Dotted along the way are ferry ports for Islay, Gigha, and a back route into Arran.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Isle of Bute


text:
Isle of Jura

Jura (Gaelic Diùra) is an island in the Inner Hebrides, off the west coast of Scotland. It's 30 miles long by 7 miles wide, with a population of only 196 in 2011. It has poor boggy soil and three conical hills known as the Paps of Jura. It's on the same latitude as Edinburgh and Glasgow and lies within 5 miles of the mainland, yet feels very remote, with bleak terrain and lack of direct transport links. Most visitors come here as part of a trip to nearby Islay.

Understand
Jura has 7,000 red deer, and its name probably derives from Old Norse Dyrøy, "deer island". Much of the land is used for deer-stalking, and during the season (Aug-Oct) it may be unsafe or prohibited to enter these areas.

The main access point is Feolin on the southwest coast, where the ferry arrives from Islay. From here a narrow lane, grandly designated the A846, winds over the hills to Craighouse. This tiny settlement is Jura's capital, with the only shop, hotel and pub on the island, and the only two places to eat out. The Jura whisky distillery is also here. The entire south part of the island is designated as a National Scenic Area, notable for bird life, and its seas are similarly protected. The Paps, i.e., breasts, rear up just west, though from this close they look like what they are, bleak pyramids of scree surrounded by bog. The classic views of them are from some miles away on the mainland or Islay, perhaps louring with cloud or set against a golden sky as the sun westers behind them.

The west coast of Jura is uninhabited. The island's residents live along the more sheltered east coast, and from Craighouse the A846 continues north through Lagg, Tarbet and Ardlussa. Here the road forks: go right (south) to its terminus at Inverlussa, where there is an attractive field for wild camping, but the practice is discouraged due to its proximity to housing. A mile north in Ardlussa bay is much more suitable. The left fork runs north for 3 miles to the end of the public road. A private track (permission and 4WD essential) continues from there to the north of the island. It passes Barnhill, where George Orwell (Eric Blair 1903-1950) stayed towards the end of his life, seriously ill with tuberculosis, and wrote his dystopian classic Nineteen Eighty-Four. A footpath to the island's north tip gives views of the Corryvreckan whirlpool.

Get in

 * "An extremely un-get-at-able place" - George Orwell's reason for taking a cottage on Jura

You usually get here by boat via Islay — see that page for long-distance travel options. The ferry from Kennacraig on the Scottish mainland sails either to Port Ellen, or to Port Askaig which is also the ferry pier for Jura.

on Jura is reached by a small ro-ro from Port Askaig on Islay. It sails year-round hourly M-Sa and every two hours Sunday, taking 5 min. It's run by Argyll and Bute council, so you won't find the definitive timetable on the Calmac website. No booking, just pay on board, return fares (until April 2025) are £23.20 per car and driver, £4.80 per adult passenger, £2.80 per child. Don't be tardy at Feolin Ferry, as the ferry is battling against the wind and currents in the strait, and won't stay on the pier a moment longer than it needs to - it may sail 5-10 minutes early. The "terminal" is little more than a cabin, but at least it gets you out of the rain.

Port Askaig is being upgraded, so 19 June - 30 July 2024 the ferry from Kennacraig does not call, but the Islay-Jura ro-ro is not affected.

the main settlement (since it's the only settlement) is the landing point of the Jura Passenger Ferry, a foot passenger service April-Sept from Tayvallich near Lochgilphead on the mainland. There are four sailings M and W-F, and two on Saturday and Sunday. It takes 45-60 min in a bouncy Rib, which has a cabin so you stay dry. Fares in 2024 are £25 each way, bikes £2.50, children under 5 and dogs free, 20 kg luggage limit. Advance booking is needed (online or +44 7768 450000). A day-trip gives you six or eight hours on the island.

Jura is the largest Scottish island to have no direct car ferry from the mainland. From time to time there's talk of instigating one, but it would need heavy public subsidy to build port facilities and meet the operating costs, and it doesn't seem at all likely.

Loch Lomond Seaplanes have sightseeing flights March-Oct, landing in the bay at Craighouse. These give you two hours on the island and in 2024 cost £189.

Get around
By bus: The only public bus along Jura's only road is Bus 456 operated by Garelochhead Coaches (+44 1436 810200). This runs between Feolin ferry pier and Craighouse up to five times a day, taking 20 min, fare £2.40. It continues north to road's end at Inverlussa twice a day, more often on school days. The bus makes other runs on request, by phone the previous day.

Discover Jura run guided tours.

By car: Most visitors bring their own car over from the mainland, or hire one on Islay. There's no car hire on Jura, but see above for minibus hire.

It's a long long narrow windy road, called "The Long Road" oddly enough. You can seldom reach 40 mph, so don't cut it fine returning to the ferry pier. Good reversing skills are important but not essential, as the road is entirely single track with regular passing places.

Do pick up hitchers if they're not hopelessly dirty or weird, you may be their last hope of catching the ferry.

By bike: via the ferry, or hire from the Jura Hotel. The hills aren't massive but there's a lot of up and down, and it'll also help if you like rain and stiff headwinds.

See

 * (Mountain of Gold) is the highest point of Jura at 785 m (2575 ft), a Corbett;
 * (Holy Mountain) is 757 m (2484 ft), a Graham since it only has 303 m prominence;
 * (Mountain of the Strait) is 733 m (2405 ft), a Graham of 359 m prominence.
 * these are the three Paps of Jura, dominating the landscape afar. They're conical quartzite hills, and "paps" of course means breasts. From many viewpoints you only see two, and certainly in photos and paintings. On Islay as you drive down the Rhinns past Port Charlotte, the profile of Jura expands into an entire reclining woman, but the third breast becomes extra prominent.
 * Craighouse is a pleasant small white-washed place. Whisky Island Gallery is an art photography studio by the pier, open M-F noon-4PM, Sa noon-3PM.
 * Bay of Small Isles is the sea inlet at Craighouse: the ridge continues across the bay as a chain of uninhabited islets, sheltering the pier. But it also bars the approach to large craft, so a port for car ferries couldn't be built here.
 * (meaning "The Hollow") in the 19th century was Jura's main ferry port, crossing from Knapdale, but is no longer used and is lightly inhabited.
 * is the best of Jura's many menhirs, a slender prehistoric slab 2.5 m tall by the roadside. An Tairbeart in Gaelic means a neck of land where you can drag a boat from one body of water to another. So from here you can portage from the east coast to Loch Tarbert, which almost bisects Jura.
 * is the little cove at the north end of the public road; Lussa gin distillery is nearby. You're more likely to be sharing the beach with red deer than with cattle. Also located here is Tea on the Beach, a horsebox which sells tea and cake from April-September 10AM-5PM.
 * is the notorious channel between the north tip of Jura and the island of Scarba; in Gaelic Coire Bhreacain means "cauldron of the speckled seas". It's called a whirlpool but is more like a white-water cascade of violent eddies and standing waves. On an ebb tide, the falling sea level within the Sound of Jura draws in water from the Atlantic which speeds quietly - "laminar flow". The mischief is on the flood, when the narrowing of the Sound of Jura funnels the flow to a speed of 16 kph (8½ knots), which is made turbulent by the irregular sea bed. It's already good and shook-up as it enters the channel from the east, where it encounters a hole 219 m deep, then a basalt pinnacle rising from 70 m to within 29 m of the surface. This creates great up-and downflows and a roaring maelstrom. It's at its height under equinoctial spring tides, and with a strong west wind to add further "wind-over-tide" turbulence... yet it's not the worst. North side of Scarba, "Little Corryvreckan" or "Grey Dogs" is a narrow channel separating the island of Lunga, and this is the one with the urban legend that the Admiralty rated it as "unnavigable" - the truly unnavigable one is further north. You can view Corryveckan by a long hike from Ardlussa, but most visitors take a boat trip from the mainland, preferably with an experienced operator.

Do

 * What's on? Read Ileach or Jura Jottings or Islay-Jura Events. Ceilidhs and other live entertainment are often held in Craighouse village hall.
 * Walk: the island's trails come in all grades. Easy hikes taking an hour or so are at Craighouse, the bay near Feolin Ferry, Corran Sands, and coast-to-coast at Tarbert. The classic hike is the Paps of Jura, a 10-hour, 10-mile slog through bog and scree to reach all three peaks; the highest Beinn an Òir is 785 m. A 15-mile round trip, from the road's north end at Ardlussa, follows a track to Barnhill then a rough boggy path to the view over Corryvreckan.
 * Golf: Ardfin, the island's only course, is only available to those staying at the Quads or Islay House. Those on a mere mortal's budget should drive down to Feolin Ferry and cross to Machrie Links.
 * The fell race is held in late May, starting and finishing in Craighouse. The course record for this 28-km, 7-summit, slog-in-a-bog is just over 3 hours.
 * Jura Music Festival is held in Craighouse on the last weekend of September, 3 days of traditional music and dance.

Buy

 * Fuel: The community fuel pumps at the pier are open on certain days. Check in with Camella Crafts at Unit 1 for opening times. The e-charging point is open 24 hours.
 * Fuel: The community fuel pumps at the pier are open on certain days. Check in with Camella Crafts at Unit 1 for opening times. The e-charging point is open 24 hours.

Eat

 * Jura Hotel (see "Sleep") is open daily for lunch noon-2PM, dinner 6-8:30PM, but Nov-Mar dinner only by reservation.
 * Jura Hotel (see "Sleep") is open daily for lunch noon-2PM, dinner 6-8:30PM, but Nov-Mar dinner only by reservation.

Drink

 * Jura Brewery is in Craighouse, no tours.
 * Deer Island make spiced rum. They're by Craighouse pier and open May-Aug M 10:30AM-2:30PM, W-F 10:30AM-3:30PM, Sa 10:30AM-1:30PM. Tours available.
 * Lussa Gin Distillery is a micro-distillery near the end of the road 25 miles north of Craighouse. Tours M-F 11:30AM & 2:30PM must be booked in advance on +44 1496 820196 or email tours@lussagin.com.
 * Jura Hotel has the island's only public bar; see Sleep.
 * Jura Hotel has the island's only public bar; see Sleep.

Sleep

 * Camping. The Jura Hotel provides camping in a scenic field situated between the hotel and the shore. Campers use toilets and showers at the hotel. No charge, but donations are accepted in the hotel bar. There are also many places on the island where you can wild camp, including Corran Sands (2 miles/3.2 km north of Craighouse). In the spirit of "wild camping", sites should be well away from the few places where there are residents' housing (ie in a wild place) unless permission is given. There is no lack of wild space in Jura so please respect the privacy of residents. See https://www.visitscotland.com/accommodation/caravan-camping/wild-camping/ for reference. Take some midge/mosquito repellent — you will need it!
 * There's bed & breakfast at Craighouse, Corran and Ardlussa, plus some two dozen self-catering lets, search online with Jura Development.
 * Camping. The Jura Hotel provides camping in a scenic field situated between the hotel and the shore. Campers use toilets and showers at the hotel. No charge, but donations are accepted in the hotel bar. There are also many places on the island where you can wild camp, including Corran Sands (2 miles/3.2 km north of Craighouse). In the spirit of "wild camping", sites should be well away from the few places where there are residents' housing (ie in a wild place) unless permission is given. There is no lack of wild space in Jura so please respect the privacy of residents. See https://www.visitscotland.com/accommodation/caravan-camping/wild-camping/ for reference. Take some midge/mosquito repellent — you will need it!
 * There's bed & breakfast at Craighouse, Corran and Ardlussa, plus some two dozen self-catering lets, search online with Jura Development.
 * There's bed & breakfast at Craighouse, Corran and Ardlussa, plus some two dozen self-catering lets, search online with Jura Development.

Connect
There is 4G coverage over most of the island. A good rule of thumb is that if you can see the mainland you can probably get signal.

Go next

 * Back to Islay is the usual route.
 * On Wednesdays & Saturdays you can immediately sail on from Port Askaig to Colonsay, and in summer a day trip there is possible.

title: Isle of Jura


text:
Isle of Lismore

Lismore is an island ten miles north of Oban in the sea inlet of Loch Linnhe. It's one of the Inner Hebrides islands, but little developed for tourism, and overlooked by visitors who sail by on the ferries. Lios Mòr in Gaelic means "big garden" and it's low-lying, fertile and often lashed with rain. Unusually for these parts, it's a limestone ridge, so it doesn't have the usual Hebridean peat bogs and midges. It was quarried in the 19th and early 20th century for lime but this industry has gone. In 2011 the population was 192.

Visitor information

 * Isle of Lismore visitor information website

Get in
See Oban for long-distance routes across the Scottish mainland.

midway along the island is the usual arrival point, on the Calmac ferry from Oban, which takes just under an hour. Year-round there are four sailings M-Sa and two on Sunday; times vary with the tides. Until end of March 2025, return fares are £28.30 per car, £6.70 per adult including driver, and £3.40 per child aged 5-15; bikes are free. Space for vehicles is limited so reservations are advised. The ferry MV Loch Striven was built in 1986 and looks far older, but has a small passenger lounge and toilets. Achnacroich ferry pier also has a small waiting room with toilets.

at the north tip of Lismore is the other ferry pier (sometimes loosely referred to as Port Ramsay, but that two miles south down a different lane). This foot passenger ferry sails from Port Appin 15 miles north of Oban, year round, hourly M-Sa and every couple of hours on Sunday, taking 10 minutes. It's run by Argyll and Bute Council so it's not on the Calmac website; return fares in 2023 are £4.60 adult, £2.60 child. There's no public transport to Port Appin: a school bus runs twice on schooldays from Oban to Appin village, two miles east of the pier. But if you get stuck, Port Appin has accommodation and eating and drinking places; two standouts are Pierhouse and Airds Hotel close to the ferry landing.

Lismore is within kayak-range of the mainland.

Get around
Bring a car or bike. The island is 12 miles long, with a paved single track lane running the top 9 miles of it; the south end is rough track only suitable for 4WD. There are no filling stations on Lismore.

Explore Lismore offers tours and transfers on the island.

See

 * is an Iron Age structure on the east coat by Clachan.
 * along the lane at Salen reflect the island's former industry.
 * is perhaps the island's most utterly ruined structure, an Iron Age fortification by Loch Fiart.
 * is the ruin of a 13th-century fortress. Not much left of it, you come for the walk and the views.
 * Bernera is the tidal island beyond Achanduin Castle. See the remains of its medieval chapel and burial ground, limestone cliffs, seals and bird life.
 * is the islet with the Stevenson lighthouse off the south tip of Lismore. Best view of it is from the ferry from Oban to Craignure on Mull — you only get a distant view from the ferry to Lismore.
 * is the ruin of a 13th-century fortress. Not much left of it, you come for the walk and the views.
 * Bernera is the tidal island beyond Achanduin Castle. See the remains of its medieval chapel and burial ground, limestone cliffs, seals and bird life.
 * is the islet with the Stevenson lighthouse off the south tip of Lismore. Best view of it is from the ferry from Oban to Craignure on Mull — you only get a distant view from the ferry to Lismore.

Do

 * Walk Highlands suggest several hikes. Most can be done as day trips from the ferry piers.

Buy
The Post Office and general store is open M Tu Th F 9AM-5PM, and W Sa 9AM-1PM.

Eat

 * Stock up on food essentials at the Post Office, which has meats, cheese, bread, beverages and snacks.
 * Liosbeag Cafe is at the Heritage Centre (Ionad Naomh Moluag), same hours.
 * There's a tearoom opposite the church.

Drink
Lismore has no mains water, the houses and farms all draw from bore holes. Bring your own refreshments or stop by one of the small shops. The Post Office sells bottled drinks.

Sleep

 * Self-catering: half a dozen lets available, see island website.
 * Self-catering: half a dozen lets available, see island website.

Connect
As of June 2023, Lismore has no general mobile signal from any UK carrier, but individual premises such as the Heritage Centre have Wifi. Work is under way to connect the island by broadband cable.

Go next

 * Back to Oban for all routes by car or public transport.
 * Mull and the Ardnamurchan peninsula are just five miles west, but you have to return to Oban and take a ferry or wind around Loch Linnhe by road to reach them.

title: Isle of Lismore


text:
Isle of Man

The Isle of Man (Manx: Ellan Vannin) is an island in the British Isles, sitting in the Irish Sea midway between Cumbria in England and County Down in Northern Ireland. It's not part of the United Kingdom but is a Crown Dependency: its own elected parliament "Tynwald" governs island affairs but matters such as defence and foreign affairs are governed by the UK. In 2021 its population was 84,069.

The Isle of Man has a large summer tourist industry. Its big attraction is the TT motorbike races held in May / June.

Towns

 * (Doolish) is the capital and largest town on the island.
 * (Balley Chashtal) the former capital has a fine castle and the Old House of Keys.
 * (Purt le Moirrey) is a resort village on the south coast.
 * (Purt Çhiarn) is a village on the southwest coast.
 * (Purt ny h-Inshey) has an impressive island castle, cathedral and museums.
 * (Balley Keeill Eoin) is tiny, yet the site of the island's first parliament.
 * (Laksaa) is a delightful village where a giant water wheel once pumped the lead mines.
 * (Rhumsaa) has a long sandy beach.
 * has two transport museums.

Other destinations

 * (Yn Cholloo) is a small island bird sanctuary. Boat trips sail from Port Erin and Port St Mary.
 * (Sniaull) is the highest point on Mann: on a clear day you can see Wales, England, Scotland and Ireland. Take the mountain railway or hike up.

Understand
"Manannan beg va Mac y Leirr, Shen yn chied er ec row rieau ee…"

- Manannan in legend was the first ruler of Mann, Son of the Seagod Leir, and summoned the mist as a cloak of invisibility

Rising sea levels made this an island around 6500 BC, the same era that Great Britain was sundered from the continent. Stone Age settlers farmed, fished and erected megaliths. In the Iron Age around 500 BC came the Celts, who spoke a Brythonic or P-Celtic language akin to Old Welsh. The Romans probably set foot here but didn't linger. About 500 AD arrivals from Ireland brought Q-Celtic, the forerunner to the Manx, Scottish and Irish Gaelic languages. From 800 AD the Vikings raided, then settled and became Christianised. Godred Crovan (King Orry of legend) was a Viking or Norse warrior who ruled from the 1070s. His realm was called Suðr-eyjar, the southern islands of Mann and the Hebrides, distinct from Norðr-eyjar the northern islands of Orkney and Shetland, hence the ecclesiastical diocese of Sodor and Mann.

Norse power was broken in the 13th century and Mann was ceded to Scotland but became a shuttlecock in the Anglo-Scottish wars. Mainland absentee barons treated it as a chattel and ranch. High taxes in the 18th century fostered smuggling all around Britain, and in Mann, this reached such a pitch that the London government took over. In 1765 they bought out the feudal rights from the baron, who in that era was the Duke of Atholl. They considered merging it with the county of Cumberland but opted to govern directly, with the title "Lord of Mann" returning to the monarch (since 2023, Charles III). (It's called "revestment" - when the monarch creates a lordship he/she "invests" it, so this is the reverse, only for once not involving treason and lopped heads on pikes.) Mann was not included in those versions of the United Kingdom constituted in 1603, 1707 or 1801. In 1868 the island was granted a degree of local autonomy; it re-invented itself as a Victorian holiday resort and also invented a thousand-year tradition of Manx parliament that in reality had enjoyed little sway on the island.

The island is miles long from northeast to southwest, and 13 miles (22 km) at its widest. It's hilly, effectively an outlier of the English Lake District and the Scottish lowland hills, suitable for small-scale farming. The hills draw mist and clouds (" Manannan's Cloak") and the maritime climate is mild. Summers are cool with sunshine and showers. Winters are seldom bitter, and the highest peak Snaefell at 621 m is named for being the only spot where snow might linger. The island is congested during the TT Races in June, busy through August, then quiet the rest of the year with many amenities closing down Nov to March.

The TT motorbike races, which commenced in 1907, are the Isle of Man's top tourist draw. It was illegal to race motor vehicles on the mainland so racing began here, as it did in Ireland. "TT" stands for Tourist Trophy but could equally stand for time trials, as bikes depart at ten-second intervals and aren't racing head-to-head. The course is on-road, a triangular lap of 37.730 miles (60.721 km) from Douglas to Peel then Ramsey then back to Douglas, with a series of races in different categories. Roads are closed to the public during races and official practice - sounds obvious, but it took them twenty years to think of it. The course is dangerous and in the 1970s riders boycotted it, so the TT lost its Grand Prix status, with the premier races moving to Silverstone off-road circuit in England. And the grim statistics only include those killed during the official event - they omit the wannabee visitors who blat around the course outside race days, and those caught in their path.

Talk
English is spoken by all. Manx is no longer a living language — there isn't a Gaeltacht as in Ireland or Scotland — though the government is trying to promote it, and in one primary school Manx is the language of instruction. You'll see many street signs in Manx.

Entry requirements
British and Irish citizens may enter and live in the Isle of Man without a visa or clearance from the Immigration Office. However, they may only work if they have a work permit.

The Isle of Man forms a "Common Travel Area" with the United Kingdom, Republic of Ireland and the Channel Isles. If you're eligible to enter any one of them without a visa, then you may enter them all, and if you're granted a visa for one then it covers them all. Often the ferries don't ask to see your passport.

The Isle of Man is not part of the EU Schengen travel zone and those visas are not valid for the Common Travel Area.

Many countries' citizens may enter for tourism and similar purposes without a visa: see United Kingdom. These include EU / EEA countries, USA and Canada, Australia and New Zealand, but not South Africa or India. Entry is for up to six months. If you do need a visa, the normal application process is via the UK immigration website. An Irish visa is also valid but that is an unusual way for a non-European to enter the Isle of Man, so expect some questioning on arrival lest you're scheming something cute. Visas are multi-entry and briefly leaving the island and returning (say for a weekend in Amsterdam) does not re-start the clock on your six months.

By plane
is at Ronaldsway, just outside Castletown in the south of the island. It has flights year-round from London (Gatwick and City), Liverpool, Manchester and Dublin, and others seasonally. Airlines include BA, Easyjet, Loganair and Aer Lingus.

The airport has car hire and the usual facilities, and has its own station a short walk away on the Isle of Man Steam Railway, which runs from March to October. However buses from the airport serve the same destinations, are quicker, more frequent and closer to the terminal building so take the bus unless you are a die hard rail enthusiast. See Castletown for the aviation and military museum just south of the terminal.

By boat
Douglas is the port for all ferries. These are operated by the Steam Packet Company, carry vehicles, and sail from:
 * Liverpool Apr-Oct, one or two sailings daily by fast cat, 2 hr 45 min. Nov-Mar they sail instead from Birkenhead on the opposite bank of the Mersey, Sa Su only by conventional boat, 4 hr 15 min.
 * Heysham in Lancashire year round, one daytime and one overnight sailing by conventional boat, 3 hr 30 min.
 * Belfast May-Aug, one per week (days vary) by fast cat (2 hr 45) or conventional boat (4 hr 30 min). Plus a couple of Christmas and New Year extras.
 * Dublin June-Aug, one per week (days vary) by fast cat, 3 hr.

Sailing times vary with the tides. Camper vans up to 7.5 m length can be booked online, but for anything larger (such as caravans) you need to call reservations. Bicycles and dogs go free.

By bus
Bus routes radiate from Douglas Lord Street Interchange near the ferry terminal. They run south every 20 min to the airport, Castletown, Port St Mary and Port Erin, and north hourly to Laxey and Ramsey. They run west every 30 min or so to St John's and Peel, and an hourly bus continues northeast from Peel to Kirk Michael and Ramsey. There is no service down the west coast between Peel and Port Erin, and only an occasional school bus to Jurby.

Buses within Douglas in 2023 have single adult fares of £1.30-2. To the airport or Castletown is £3.10, to Port St Mary or Port Erin is £3.40, to Ramsey is £3.10 and to Peel £2.70. Children 5-15 pay half fare and under-5s are free.

By train
The Isle of Man has narrow-gauge heritage railways the way tropical islands have mosquitoes. Three of them can be regarded as practical transport, the rest are simply tourist- and kiddy-rides. All three run mid-March to end of October and are operated by IOM Bus and Rail.
 * IOM Steam Railway runs south from Douglas station (near the bus station and ferry terminal) to Castletown, Port St Mary and Port Erin, with four trains a day.
 * Manx Electric Railway runs north hourly from Douglas Derby Castle (north end of the promenade) to Laxey (for Snaefell) and Ramsey.
 * Snaefell Mountain Railway connects at Laxey with the Electric Railway and ascends to the summit of Snaefell.

In 2023 the adult return fare from Douglas is £13 to Castletown, £17 to Port St Mary or Port Erin, £13 to Laxey and £17 to Ramsey. From Douglas or Ramsey via Laxey to Snaefell summit and return is £18, and buying the Laxey-Snaefell portion separately is £16. Child fares are half the adult on the same basis as the buses.

Go Explore is a smart card for unlimited travel by all modes. You will struggle to break even on this: a one-day ticket is £19, so it would take an excursion on the railway plus connecting bus trips to maybe save £1. A three-day ticket is £39. These cards don't get you into any attractions, but the Go Explore Heritage does so - dubious value at £67 for five days. Other cards are designed for frequent travel such as commuting.

By road
Most visitors bring their own vehicle on the ferry. Cars can be hired at the airport and ferry terminal.

Drive on the left, same as in Britain and Ireland. The roads are reasonably well-maintained. Traffic rules are much the same as on the mainland, except that there is no general speed limit. Once clear of town, you can open the throttle and blur along at Mach speeds with your hair on fire, and lots of bikers do so. That doesn't make it a smart thing to do, and those village corners flashing past are often named for the racer who totalled in there.

Throughout the TT fortnight, the mountain section A18 is one-way southbound from Ramsey to Creg-ny-Baa near Douglas, and cyclists are prohibited. This is apart from the complete closures during races and practice. Go north on the coast road A2 via Laxey.

Taxis are available at the airport, at Douglas ferry terminal and in Ramsey, see individual towns.

See

 * The Adult Visitor Holiday Pass covers most major attractions, is valid for two weeks and costs £35 in 2024. Buy it at the first attraction you visit, and you'll break even from about the fourth. But there's a long list of heritage organisations whose members get in free (National Trust, English Heritage, National Trust for Scotland, Historic Scotland, Cadw, Irish OPW, and on and on it goes . . . ) and they may somehow forget to mention this.

 * Laxey Wheel is the giant waterwheel symbolic of the island. This wheel and its smaller sisters pumped the lead mines carved into the hillside.
 * Castle Rushen is an impressive fortress in Castletown.
 *  Peel Castle is on an islet reached by road, with its curtain wall encompassing a ruined cathedral.
 * House of Manannan also in Peel is an excellent museum of the island's story from Celtic times through the Viking period to the Victorian holiday resorts.
 * Prehistoric sites of burial and ritual are found near Port St Mary and near Laxey.
 * Cregneash near Port St Mary is a restored Manx crofting village.
 * Calf of Man off the southwest tip is a birdlife reserve.

Do

 * Hike — the longest trail is Raad ny Foillan, The Way of the Gull, a 95-mile (150-km) footpath around the coast of the island.
 * Fish — There are numerous places to fish from piers and in lakes. Permits may be required in some.
 * Cycle — You'll need to be fit, the roads are hilly.
 * TT Races are held over a fortnight in June. The island is chock-a-block then, and accommodation, ferries and flights must be booked well in advance. The next races are 26 May - 7 June 2025, with practice and qualifying laps over the preceding week.

Buy
The Manx pound (£) is equal in value to the British pound sterling (ISO code: GBP). Manx coins are of the same shape and denominations as UK ones, plus a £5 coin. Manx notes have distinct designs and are issued as £1 (depicting Tynwald Hill), £5 (Castle Rushen), £10 (Peel Castle), £20 (Laxey Wheel), and £50 (Douglas Bay). UK Sterling is also legal tender, and Scottish, Northern Irish, and English notes and coins freely circulate. However Manx notes are not legal tender in the UK, and may attract poor exchange rates beyond, so trade them before leaving at any branch of the Isle of Man Bank.

Retailers may accept euros but are under no obligation to do so, and may offer sub-par rates.

Shopping: Many UK chain stores are represented in the island, mainly in Douglas. The local supermarket chain is Shoprite, with outlets in Douglas, Peel, Ramsey, Castletown and Port Erin.

Manx specialities include smoked kippers and Manx Tartan.

No duty-free sales travelling between UK and Isle of Man, but they are available to and from the Republic of Ireland.

Eat
The Isle of Man serves trad fare to a budget audience. Indian, Chinese and Italian places are uncommon.

Fish is a major component but may have travelled many miles to get here. Offerings include takeaway fish and chips, smoked kipper, crab baps and queen scallops - and these last are often locally-sourced.

Pubs are often a good bet for food. Douglas, Ramsey and Peel have the most dining choice, while Port St Mary and Port Erin have few options. Many places are closed on Monday.

Drink
The minimum age to purchase alcohol is 18. Unlike in the United Kingdom, 16-year-olds may not consume alcohol with a meal on licensed premises.

All the towns have bars, and these are often a good choice for food. There are pop-up bars during the TT.

Breweries: Douglas has Okells, Bushy's, Radical Brewing and Kaneen's. The Isle of Man does not have a vineyard.

Distilleries: Fynoderee in Ramsey makes whisky, Seven Kingdom in Douglas makes gin and vodka.

Sleep
There are camping and caravan sites around Douglas, Peel, Ramsey and Port St Mary, and pop-ups during the TT. Camping is not permitted on the Calf of Man.

Most hotels and B&Bs are in Douglas, trad seafront places, but many are frankly tired and overdue for refurbishment. The Premier Inn is a rare example of a mainland chain. Many B&Bs folded during covid and have not re-opened.

The island is lacking an upscale destination hotel — where's that fellow Trump when he's wanted? It's not known what will become of the former Castle Mona. Top scores for comfort and service are awarded to the Comis, a golf hotel on the road from Douglas to Castletown.

Learn
University College Isle of Man (Colleish-Olloscoill Ellan Vannin) is in Douglas and offers degree-level courses accredited by the University of Chester.

Work
There is seasonal work in the tourism and hospitality industry, but visitors need a Work Permit from the Isle of Man Government.

There are small offshore-finance, gaming and IT sectors, but miniscule compared to the Channel Islands.

Stay safe
Care of valuables, beware traffic especially during the TT, and safety at sea, are your main concerns on this very safe island.

The emergency number for police, fire and ambulance is 999, call free.

Stay healthy
The emergency number is 999, same as in the UK.

For anything less, call the MEDS service on. They can advise (for instance on late-night pharmacies) and may direct you to the out-of-hours doctor based in Noble's Hospital at the northwest edge of Douglas. This is not a drop-in service, you must have an appointment, and your own transport unless it's a 999-grade ambulance emergency.

You must have adequate travel insurance. The Isle of Man has a reciprocal health care agreement with the United Kingdom, so British visitors here receive urgent care free, as do Manx visitors to the UK. It does not cover the cost of repatriation. Noble's Hospital is modern and well-equipped, but something complicated (say, a bypass operation following a heart attack) would necessitate an air ambulance to the mainland costing £20,000.

The agreement does not cover any other country, such as the EU, Republic of Ireland or Channel Islands, and the EHIC card is not valid here. So if you were uninsured, you'd have to meet the full cost of your heart attack, then the air ambulance all the way home to Brussels.

Respect
People from the Isle of Man are called "Manx". Don't call them British, and never ever English.

The Isle of Man is fairly socially conservative, has attracted like-mind settlers, and lacks the ethnic diversity of the UK. Its more repressive legislation has been repealed, but social attitudes linger. However, businesses welcome the raucous motley crowds that follow the TT, and anyone that doesn't like them stays home, twitching the net curtains.

There is a mythology that the word "rat" is unlucky here, say "longtail" or some such euphemism. This is a modern meme, with a bogus legend of a rat spoiling a medieval event. Do not hesitate to name the beast if it scurries across your accommodation or shows its fuzzy face on the Calf of Man, where an eradication programme is under way.

Connect
The dialling code for the Isle of Man is +44, same as for mainland Britain, so to call between them you don't dial +44. It's as if IOM was a mainland city with dialling code 01624 and domestic call charges.

However, UK mobile networks don't cover IOM so your phone will be in roaming mode. Consider buying a local SIM card if you expect to make a lot of calls. The local networks are Manx Telecom and Sure, with 4G coverage throughout the island; 5G has not yet rolled out. Manx mobile numbers have the dialling code of 07624.

Omit the dialling code if calling between Manx numbers, thus for 01624 111111, you just dial 111111.

Go next

 * Liverpool needs a few days to explore, then head south for Chester, the Welsh borderlands around Chirk and Llangollen, and the coast towards Conwy.
 * Heysham is within easy reach of the English Lake District. A scenic road threads southeast through the Yorkshire Dales.
 * Dublin and Belfast are both must-see destinations on the island of Ireland.
 * Silverstone in the English Midlands is now the venue for Grand Prix racing, with the motorbike event held in August.

title: Isle of Man


text:
Isle of Palms

Isle of Palms is a city of 4,347 (2020) in South Carolina, near Charleston. Over the years Isle of Palms has become a very popular vacation spot for families. Warm weather, an abundance of palm trees, and beautiful beaches make Isle of Palms the perfect location for any traveler.

Get in
Public transportation options have been discontinued in 2013. A taxi from the center of Charleston should cost around $22.

Get around
The main thoroughfare through IOP is Palm Blvd, which stretches from the island's southernmost border to just past 57th Ave. to the North. The island is perfect for biking and walking, not to mention the fact that the entire island is accessible by golf cart.

Be sure to use caution while driving on Isle of Palms. The local police force is snide and unfriendly, often acting militaristic in their enforcement of public safety and road regulations. A parked vehicle left hanging half an inch past the line will likely net you a parking violation ticket.

See
Isle of Palms is big on water sports and beaches, but short on attractions. If you insist on seeing anything other than sand, the huge number of turtles which nest here during the summer is a unique attraction to the island. They are all carefully monitored and recorded by the community's Turtle Team. While casual visitors will probably have more luck hitting the jackpot than seeing one hatch, there is a good chance of spotting turtles while hanging on the beach (Jul-Aug?). Neighboring Sullivan's Island's Fort Moultrie is your best bet if that's not enough culture for you.

Do

title: Isle of Palms


text:
Isle of Portland

Portland is a town in Dorset, a county on the south coast of the West Country, in England. Portland is actually an island, even though it is linked to the mainland by Chesil Beach, as Chesil Beach is a shoal beach (not a tombolo).

Many attractions and facilities are available in the nearby town of Weymouth, a short bus ride away. The area is rapidly improving after the closure of the Naval Base in 1995. The London 2012 Olympic sailing events were staged in Portland Harbour.

Understand
Portland has been a place of human settlement since the Stone Age.

The island is known for its stone that has been taken from the island's seven quarries and has been used to build notable structures such as the Cenotaph memorial, Buckingham Palace and St. Paul's Cathedral. In addition to being exported abroad. The island's castles, Portland Castle, Pennsylvania Castle and Rufus Castle use this local grey stone too.

Despite the island's small size, Portland has been home to three prisons: HMP Portland, HMP Verne and HMP Weare. HMP Portland is still active as a young offenders' institute.

There is a strange superstition where rabbits are considered bad luck. Use of the name may still be taboo, so the creatures are often euphemistically referred to as "underground mutton", "long-eared furry things" or just "bunnies".

From the South and London
Follow the A35 towards Dorchester, but turn off on the junction for the A354 (that has signs for Weymouth). Then follow the signs into the town. Once in Weymouth there are many signs for Portland.

From the Westcountry
Follow the signs for Bridport, then at the roundabout near Morrisons take the coast road towards Weymouth, or the main road towards Dorchester. Once in Weymouth there are many signs for Portland.

By train
The nearest train station is. Trains to Weymouth station come direct from London Waterloo and Bristol. Connections can be made from the north by changing trains at London, Bristol or at Southampton. There is a bus stop two minutes from the train station with direct busses to Portland. There is also a taxi rank outside the station.

By coach
National Express operates a coach service to and from Weymouth's Seafront. Services run to London Victoria, Portsmouth, Bournemouth, Brighton, Bristol with connections to other locations from those towns. Once in Weymouth, there is a five minute walk to a bus stop further along the seafront, where buses to Portland depart up to every 7 minutes.

By ferry
A ferry service by Coastline Cruises operates between Brewer's Quay in Weymouth and both Crabbers Wharf and Portland Marina in Portland, the average journey time is 45 minutes each way. Return fares are £15 adults and £10 for children.

Get around

Bus services are provided by both First and South West Coaches on Portland. The main service is route 1, provided by First, which operates every 7/8 minutes on weekdays during the day. The FirstDay ticket, which allows unlimited travel around Portland, Weymouth and Dorchester on the day of purchase on First services, costs £4.10 and can be bought from a driver.

Taxis are relatively inexpensive, the major operator in the area is Portline (+44 1305 821600)

Do

There are plenty of recreational activities in the area such as:
 * Sailing
 * Windsurfing
 * Rock climbing
 * Cycling and walking around the island on the clifftop-coastal path
 * Diving

Mid-range
There are numerous guest houses located on the island. Portland Heights Hotel has spectacular views and has the highest amount of tourist guide stars in the area. Portland Lodge next door is also very good and caters to many of the divers and sailors in the area.

Connect
Portland has 4G from all UK carriers. As of March 2022, 5G is creeping its way along the road causeway but has not yet reached the island.

Go next
All transport routes take you back to Weymouth.

title: Isle of Portland