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Baltic states

The Baltic states are three countries of north-eastern Europe, on the eastern shore of the Baltic Sea. The three small countries have a long interesting history, and an impressive cultural heritage dating back to the Hanseatic League. The region's 175,015 km2 are home to 6.3 million people, nearly half of them in Lithuania.

Countries
North to south:

Other regions
Kaliningrad Oblast – a bizarre small slice of Russia between Lithuania and Poland that makes for an interesting addition to a Baltic trip. Entering the exclave requires a Russian visa.

Capitals
The three capitals all have UNESCO-listed old towns, Soviet concrete new towns and occasional 21st-century buildings in between.

The cities are roughly listed North to South
 * – smallest of the three but still an aspiring global-feel city and Estonia's digital industrial hub
 * – the region's biggest city, Latvia's party town has much to offer
 * – Lithuania's cosmopolitan centre

Other
The towns and cities are roughly listed North to South
 * – Estonia's second city with a relaxed student vibe
 * – second biggest city of Latvia
 * – Latvian beach city known for its music and the former secret Soviet military town of Karosta
 * – second biggest city of Lithuania, with an old town and many museums and galleries
 * – Lithuania's harbor city—belonging to Germany until World War I under the name "Memel" and still served by Baltic Sea Ferries from German ports
 * – Lithuanian city with odd specialist museums and the Hill of Crosses

Other destinations

 * – largest Estonian island, green landscapes dotted with quaint villages and a medieval castle
 * – Latvian resort town on the Baltic Sea; draws a crowd in summer for the long stretch of sandy beach and cool forests
 * – a sandy spit containing the largest drifting sand dunes in Europe, at the border of Lithuania and Kaliningrad Oblast
 * – former Soviet closed town in Estonia near the Russian border, today it is known for having a treasure trove of beautiful Stalinist architecture

Understand
Baltic States are diverse, and each country and region has a different history and culture. While Latvia and Estonia were under foreign dominance for centuries, Lithuania was one of the major powers in the region. The culture of the Baltic states was strongly influenced by Scandinavians, Germans, Poles and Russians. Modern history of the Baltic States has been especially shaped by various forms of Russia, since it gained control over the area during the 18th century. People of the Baltic States have strong national identities, and are today well-integrated with the Western world.

History
The Baltic states have had vibrant histories. Christianity, Germans and feudalism arrived together in the 13th century. Also in the 13th century, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania emerged as a major political player in Medieval Europe. The Hanseatic League dominated commerce on the Baltic, until the Danish Empire and later the Swedish Empire came to rule the Sea.

In the 16th century, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth took over control of the area. It lasted until the late 18th century. The area of the Baltic states was then largely absorbed into the Russian Empire, with a slice of modern-day Lithuania being given to Prussia, later becoming part of the German Empire.

As part of revolutionary Russia's speedy exit from World War I in 1918, the early Soviet government relinquished claim on the region, creating the states which exist today. Germany was also considerably reduced in size after the war.

The Soviet Union rebounded and re-annexed all three states during World War II in a move greatly resented by their populations. The Nazis used anti-Soviet sentiment to help them form Baltic auxiliary police units that assisted the Nazis in wiping out almost all of the area's Jewish population (see Holocaust remembrance) and others considered ethnic or ideological enemies (notably including Poles), though the Nazis' claims to being liberators were not widely believed for long. The Soviets yet again annexed the Baltics in 1944, in a move condemned as illegal in the West but tolerated as part of the emerging Cold War diplomacy. All three states maintained a strong sense of national identity throughout the Soviet period, with fierce resistance against Soviet rule by the local population, culminating in an independence movement known as the Forest Brothers that was active throughout the entire period of Soviet rule. In 1990–91, the Baltic states led the breaking away of the USSR's constituent republics from the central government. They all swiftly turned away from Moscow towards the West, and joined both the European Union and NATO in 2004. All Baltic states are members of the Eurozone with Lithuania being the last to do so in 2015.

The Baltic States have seen rapid economic growth since their independence, leading to them being dubbed the Baltic Tigers; while hit hard by the 2008 financial crisis, they saw a rush of emigration, but recovered in a few years. As of 2020, they are the only former Soviet republics whose standards of living have risen to Western European standards, and the only ones to be classified as "advanced economies" (i.e. developed countries) by the IMF. In 2017, the United Nations Statistics department changed categorization of the Baltic States from eastern Europe to northern Europe.

Kaliningrad, subject of ethnic cleansing and repopulated by Russians loyal to Moscow, became an exclave of Russia after the fall of the USSR.

All three countries are home to significant ethnic Russian minorites as a result of the history of Soviet rule. These communities generally maintain close ties with Russia, making relations tense between them and their respective governments. While Lithuania granted citizenship to its ethnic Russian minority following independence, most ethnic Russians in Latvia and Estonia are stateless permanent residents; they are allowed to remain in the respective countries, but not allowed to vote in elections or claim certain welfare benefits.

Religion
Traditional Christian affiliations were Lutheranism in much of Latvia and Estonia, and Catholicism in Eastern Latvia and Lithuania. Communism and the general loss of religion across the Western world have heavily altered the traditional affiliations: Once a Lutheran country, Estonia is now among the least religious countries in the world, as 49% say they have no belief in God, and a further 40% claiming to be either agnostic or not being affiliated with any religion; in Lithuania, 49% say they do, and Catholicism remains a vital life force in everyday life; Latvia is evenly split between Lutherans, Orthodox (mostly among the Russian community), and irreligious. A smattering of pagan belief persists, for example the Romuva faith, perhaps because this was one of the last areas of Europe to be Christianized.

Talk
Each of the three countries has its own language, with Russian as a common second, or even first, language of many, particularly in the cities. English is widely spoken among the younger generation educated after independence; those born after the fall of the Soviet Union tend to be fluent, especially in Estonia. German is often understood and spoken at a conversational level. Any attempt to speak the native language is greatly appreciated.

The Estonian language's similarities with Finnish, along with Finnish cultural influences, allow much mutual comprehension. In Tallinn Finnish is spoken or understood at most places of interest for the average visitor. Some Polish is spoken in Lithuania.

Given that Russian was the language of the perceived colonial oppressor, it may not be well received. Try first communicating in the native language or in English, at least for greetings and to ask whether the person prefers to speak Russian. The negative attitude towards Russian tends to persist more strongly in Estonia and Latvia, with Lithuania having less anti-Russian language sentiment. Generally speaking, the younger generation schooled after independence is more likely to speak English than Russian. That said, all three countries have significant ethnic Russian minorities whose native language is Russian, particularly in some neighbourhoods in their respective capital cities and in areas near the Russian border. Younger ethnic Russians who were educated following independence usually speak the respective country's national language as well, though older people who were educated during the Soviet era typically do not.

Latvian and Lithuanian are related to each other as Indo-European Baltic languages. It is commonly believed that Baltic and Slavic languages are more closely related to one another than other branches of the Indo-European language family, but this is not even yet the unanimous opinion of linguists and unlikely to be of much help understanding people or recognizing cognates. Estonian is relatively closely related to the Finnish language, much more distantly related to Hungarian (about as close as Spanish and Greek are) and not related to the Baltic languages or any other Indo-European language even though there are of course loanwords.

Get in
All three states are part of Europe's Schengen area.

By plane
Generally speaking there are fairly good connections from other parts of Europe and from the western half of the former Soviet Union. Save for a few exceptions, getting to the Baltics from elsewhere always includes at least one change of planes.

Riga Airport in Latvia is by a large margin the busiest airport in the Baltic countries. It is the main hub of AirBaltic, which flies to around 60 European cities (including most major cities) and has seasonal routes to the Middle East and Central Asia. When flying to the Baltic states, chances are you will pass by Riga.

Tallinn Airport  in Estonia is a small airport with fewer direct connections than its neighbors. However, it ranks among the best airports in the world for its excellent customer service, modern facilities, and overall efficiency. It is Air Baltic's second hub, is served by several low-cost airlines, and has flights to most major airports in northern and central Europe.

Vilnius Airport in Lithuania is mostly served by budget airlines Wizz Air and Ryanair, for which it is a major hub, although a number of major carriers and charter airlines can be found as well. Vilnius also has a rather large catchment area that reaches deep into Belarus and northeastern Poland.

Ryanair also provides several connections to Kaunas Airport. Palanga Airport serves as a small regional airport for the western part of Lithuania with a few routes.

By boat
Ferries criss-cross the Baltic. A popular route is Helsinki–Tallinn. There are also many Baltic cruises.

By train
Vilnius is the entry hub for rail travelers from Warsaw, Kaliningrad and Belarus. Note that the trains from Vilnius to Moscow and from Kaliningrad to St Petersburg via Vilnius (do not confuse with direct train from Vilnius to St Petersburg) pass through Belarus, which might require an additional visa.

By plane
The capitals are all connected to each other by short flights. From Riga there are flights to Kaunas and Palanga. From Tallinn there are flights to Tartu, Kuressaare and Kärdla.

By bus
The international bus network is pretty well developed making for easy movement. Bus is in most cases the fastest and most practical way for intercity travel if you don't have a car.

By train
The capitals have direct services between them. There is a daily service between Tallin and Riga, with interchange in Valga, and, as of July 2024, there is a single service between Riga and Vilnius daily.

By bicycle
The international bicycle project, BaltiCCycle may provide you with a lot of information and help.

By car
Your own car or a rented one is also an option, especially if you want to get to places outside major cities. Large highways are in a good shape and almost comparable to the ones in the Nordic countries, sideways and streets (in particular in smaller towns) much less so.

Two strategies may be helpful for travelers who want to explore the Baltic states by rented car. The first is to take buses or trains between major cities and rent and return a car locally. The other is to rent a car in one of the three capitals and then make a loop or figure 8 route. Returning a car to a different city or country will increase the cost by at least 50%, but usually 100%.

See

 * The Baltic sea coast with sandy beaches, including the Curonian Spit
 * Some of Europe's lowest "highest country points"; Suur Munamägi (318 m) near Võru, southeast Estonia, Gaiziņkalns (312 m) near Madona, central Latvia and Aukštojas (294 m) southeast Lithuania near the Belarusian border.
 * World heritage listed old towns in all three capitals.
 * Buildings and other remains from the Soviet Union.
 * The Hill of Crosses near Siauliai

Itineraries

 * Via Baltica – Goes from the Estonian capital Tallinn through Riga, Latvia and Kaunas, Lithuania and continues to Warsaw, Poland.
 * Cruising the Baltic Sea

Eat
The Baltic cuisine has similarities with the Nordic, Russian, and Central European cuisines. They have a wide range of bread, eaten to nearly every dish. The most traditional alcoholic beverages are beer and vodka, though kvass (a beverage commonly made from rye bread) is also common.

Drink
Due to their geography and history, the Baltic States are fond of hard liquors and beer. Another common drink in the area is Kvass.

Stay safe
Unlike their giant next-door neighbor to the east and many other former Soviet Republics, the Baltic states have never suffered from rampant criminality; they are usually safe from a tourist standpoint, and taking the basic precautions will suffice to feel comfortable. Larger urban areas do have their (marginal) share of non-violent offenses, whereas rural areas are virtually crime-free.

Nevertheless, keep the following information in mind:

 * Alcoholism is a significant problem in the Baltics. Watch out for people (including tourists from the UK, Germany, and Russia) who cannot control themselves, especially in bars, nightclubs, and low-income neighborhoods. Security guards in the region have very low tolerance on the matter, and they will resort to violence to get rid of drunkards.
 * Violent crimes such as aggravated assaults have occurred, but are usually limited to poor towns and areas off the beaten track. The city of Narva in northeastern Estonia, the western part of Riga, and the northern suburbs of Vilnius are notable examples of places with higher-than-average crime rates.
 * In Riga and Tallinn, the Russian mafia remains present, but is unlikely to harm tourists. Both cities are also known to inhabit "gopniks", the Slavic equivalent of chavs in the UK.
 * Open homosexuality is rare in the region, and same-sex couples will often be met with glaring stares by older generations, but violent reactions are unlikely, especially as the younger generations are more accepting of the LGBT community.

Go next
Stay on the Baltic coast with: Or head inland to:
 * Gdansk – historic Prussian port town, later home of the Polish movement Solidarity, which helped bring down communism
 * Helsinki – enter the Nordic countries via the charming Finnish capital
 * Stockholm – easily reachable by ferry and plane, Sweden's capital is another excellent entry point to Scandinavia
 * Kaliningrad – estranged former Soviet brother of the Baltics, Russia's westernmost outpost
 * St Petersburg – a prettier way to see Russia than Kaliningrad
 * Minsk – see Stalinist architecture of the 1950s at its best
 * Moscow – Russia's capital is the world's northernmost city with more than 10 million inhabitants, and has a lot to see and do
 * Warsaw – vibrant cultural life and good dining

title: Baltic states


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Baltimore

Slices of American history are around every corner in Baltimore. Maryland's largest city is a gritty old seaport town that's perhaps most famous as the site of Fort McHenry, where, at the height of the War of 1812, the sight of a tattered but defiant American flag flying over the harbor, despite a furious British bombardment, inspired Francis Scott Key to write the poem that was later adapted into the U.S. national anthem "Star-Spangled Banner". Nowadays, Baltimore's nonstop nightlife, temperate climate, tradition of hospitality (they don't call this place "Charm City" for nothing), and cultural attractions — not to mention its prime location on the juncture of Chesapeake Bay — make it one of the major tourist destinations of the Mid-Atlantic region.

Districts
Baltimore has an absolutely staggering number of officially designated neighborhoods. Though some are just a few blocks in size, each has its own unmistakable character.

History
Baltimore's long and rich history traces its earliest roots back to 1661, when David Jones became the first white person to settle within its city limits, but begins in earnest in 1729, when the colonial government joined the patchwork of small hamlets together into the Town of Baltimore. Quickly after incorporation, Baltimore grew into one of the largest cities and most important ports in what is now the United States, and during the American Revolution also briefly served as national capital.

Perhaps the most well-known episode in the city's history is the historic Battle of Baltimore, which occurred during the War of 1812. Over the course of the battle, the British bombed Fort McHenry with rockets in a furious but ultimately futile attempt to invade, with a tattered but proud American flag flying defiantly over the fort all the while: a scene that inspired Francis Scott Key to write a poem he called "The Star-Spangled Banner", which would later be set to music as the U.S. national anthem. Baltimore's industrial importance took center stage as the 19th century wore on, thanks not only to the buzzing port but also the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, the first one in the United States, an immensely important trade route to the American West that ran between Baltimore and the Ohio River at Wheeling, West Virginia.

Baltimore's large black population has also played an important role in its history. African-Americans have had a major presence in Baltimore since the Revolutionary War, during which time the port served as an important destination for slave ships crossing over from Africa. Later on, in the first half of the 19th century, Baltimore became one of the major centers of "free black" culture in the United States, with thousands of escaped slaves forging new lives for themselves with the help of plentifully available unskilled jobs in the port and the factories that had sprung up around it. During the 1960s, too, Baltimore was famous as the hometown of prominent African-American civil rights leaders such as Thurgood Marshall and Kweisi Mfume. African-Americans form a majority (64%) of the residents within the city limits.

Geography
Baltimore lies in an arm of the Chesapeake Bay, the third largest estuary in the world. The eastern two-thirds of the metropolitan area lie on the Atlantic Coastal Plain, between 15 and 50 feet above sea level, and contain many peninsulas jutting out into the bay. The western third of the city slowly rises into rolling hills, and leads to the piedmont region. It is about 40 miles from Washington, D.C., and approximately 100 miles from Philadelphia. The Atlantic Ocean lies about 2 hours to the southeast.

Climate
Baltimore's climate is milder and less extreme than other U.S. cities at this latitude. Summers are humid and hot, but not extremely so, with highs generally reaching the high 80s to low 90s Fahrenheit (low 30s Celsius) and lows in the 60s to low 70s F (about 20° C). Winters are sometimes cold, but sometimes merely cool and damp — highs in the upper 40s to low 50s F (about 10° C), and lows in the 30s and 40s F (about 5° C), are typical. The temperature almost never drops below 10° F (-10° C) in the city proper. Light snow can sometimes fall in winter, although some years there is no significant accumulation and once every few years a coastal storm can dump 8 inches to a foot (20-30 cm) of snow on the city. Spring and fall bring breezy days with pleasant temperatures in the 50s to 70s F (10s to 20s C).

While weather in the region can vary, Baltimore does not experience the extremes of weather change that occur further north and inland. Visitors will be able to venture outdoors without a jacket from approximately mid-March to late November. The hot humid summers mean you'll want to wear shorts most days instead of long pants. The Baltimore area experiences pleasant fall foliage, usually beginning in mid-October and ending in early December. The long warm weather season means that swimming pools are very popular for much of the year as well.

Watch
Baltimore boasts a surprisingly influential, albeit small-scale, film industry. Self-dubbed the "godfather of filth", Baltimore native John Waters is the local equivalent of New York's Woody Allen — movie after movie of his has been set and filmed on location in Baltimore, drawing heavily on Baltimore's most bizarre subcultures and strangest neighborhoods for inspiration. He became famous for his "gore" flicks in the 1970s, which combine the single-minded purpose of grossing out (or perhaps scarring for life) his viewers along with intentionally bad acting, outrageous Baltimore accents, subversive humor, general trashy perversion, and gratuitous violence. His go-to leading "lady" was an enormous Baltimore drag queen named Divine. Of this era, Pink Flamingos achieved a certain cult-classic status, although it is absolutely not for the faint of heart (or the pure of spirit).

After the 1970s, Waters' films mellowed out dramatically (though his signature interest in subversive campiness is still plenty evident). This period culminated in his most famous work, Hairspray, a 1962-fabulous story of a plus-size girl with plus-size hair who wanted to bring a black boy to the locally-televised dance show in defiance of the forces of racial segregation and bigotry. Waters has also gained considerable success within the Manhattan art world — but he rails against that same art world in Pecker, a movie soaked in the local colors of Baltimore's Hampden neighborhood. His dogged loyalty to his city has earned him a lot of goodwill here: one mayor proposed creating a local holiday dedicated to John Waters, and the Hampden neighborhood erected a giant pink flamingo statue up on the main street. But don't let all this lull you into a sense of complacency — unless it's Hairspray or perhaps Crybaby or Serial Mom, don't show his films to your kids!

Barry Levinson is perhaps the second most well-known filmmaker to come out of and make films about Baltimore. His directing career began with Diner, a movie set in the Baltimore of his youth, and a movie that would begin the famous four-movie series of "Baltimore films" along with Tin Men, Avalon, and Liberty Heights.

In the world of television, Baltimore gives us David Simon, famous for his locally-set crime dramas Homicide: Life on the Street (which he co-produced with Barry Levinson), and, of course, The Wire, which has been called by many publications "the best show on television" — although several have contended this doesn't go far enough, calling it the best TV series of all time. The Wire is set principally in the most blighted neighborhoods of West Baltimore, dealing with startlingly realistic, cliché-free portrayals of the life of the city's (and America's) underclass and the drug crime that pervades the neighborhoods and housing projects where said underclass lives. A veteran reporter for the Baltimore Sun and a novelist, Simon also turns his camera on the city government, the police department, and the public schools, never in too favorable of a light. (If you are a fan of the series, check out The Wire Tour!) For an even starker portrayal of life and drugs in Baltimore's most blighted neighborhoods, check out his documentary-style miniseries, The Corner.

Don't let these crime dramas get you down, though: this aspect of Baltimore's culture is one that most visitors are unlikely to encounter. All the more reason why The Wire is practically required watching for a serious visitor — the show is filmed on location throughout the whole city, and nowhere else will you be so quickly and delightfully introduced to Baltimore in all its local character and sense of place: Baltimore club music, beautiful and dilapidated old row houses with marble stoops, the legendary horse-cart fruit vendor, coddies and pit beef, bottles of rye by the docks, the east-west rivalry, all sorts of local hip hop, a few good corrupt Polish cops, some angry young men in the projects, and above all that sense of restlessness that keeps this city alive.

Talk
As elsewhere in the United States, the primary language is English — spoken here with a thick local accent dubbed Bawlmerese (a phonetic reading of the word "Baltimorese" as locals pronounce it). Appropriately enough from a geographic standpoint, Bawlmerese could be described as a cross between the Philadelphia accent (the first syllable of "water" sounds like "wood"), Pittsburghese (the long "o" sound is pronounced closer to the front of the mouth, something like the German ö), and the Southern accent (the words "fire" and "far" sound the same). You'll hear Bawlmerese spoken most often among white blue-collar types, and more in the city proper than in outlying suburban areas. However, the classic Baltimore accent is now moribund, and most younger people speak with a general American accent.

By plane
Baltimore-Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport is located about 10 miles from the city center and offers non-stop flights from just about every major airport in the United States, plus a handful of international flights.

Car rental facilities are all centrally located together, away from the airport. To get there, take a free airport shuttle bus between the facility and the terminals. Plan an extra 10 to 15 minutes to get out of the airport.

You have two options for getting from the airport to the city by public transit.
 * Free shuttle to the BWI Amtrak/MARC station, where you can take either an Amtrak ($7–35 one way) or MARC commuter train ($6 one way) to Penn Station, a 15-minute ride.
 * Light rail which departs directly from the terminal. The ride to the Inner Harbor is about 30 minutes and the fare is $2.00.

By car
Baltimore is served by several Interstate highways: I-83 from Harrisburg and points north; I-70 from Pittsburgh and points west; and I-95, which parallels the coast from Maine to Florida, passing through most of the major Eastern Seaboard cities along the way. If arriving from the south, the I-395 spur from I-95 will take you right into the harbor area. If arriving from the north on I-95, you will have to pay a $4 toll to take the Fort McHenry Tunnel under the harbor before you hit 395. You can avoid the toll and see more of the city by exiting I-95 at Eastern Avenue (exit 59), which will take you through the diverse neighborhoods of Southeast Baltimore before terminating in Harbor East. Interstate 97 also connects to US 50 and US 301 in the south, that can be used to get into DC.

Car parking is expensive in the inner city, roughly $5/hour around the harbor area. If you're planning to stick to the central part of the city and don't mind walking, you can save money and stress by parking for free at one of the suburban Light Rail or Metro stations and taking public transit into the city.

Both of the freeways between Baltimore and Washington, DC (I-95 and MD-295, the Baltimore-Washington Parkway) can be extremely congested on weekdays: although the cities are just 40 miles apart, the drive can take up to two hours at peak times, roughly 6AM to 9:30AM and 3:30PM to 6:30PM. The MARC commuter train is often a better option.

By bus
Buses are an affordable way to to get in to Baltimore, especially if you are coming from New York or Philadelphia.

 * Greyhound/FlixBus serves most major cities in North America. Their station is a few blocks south of the stadium district, near Inner Harbor.

 * Megabus Arrivals and departures are located on the south side of the White Marsh Park & Ride lot, located in the northern suburbs of Baltimore near the intersection of White Marsh Boulevard and Honeygo Boulevard. MTA buses operate between White Marsh Park & Ride and downtown Baltimore. Limited parking is available in the West lot only and must have a sheet of paper with the word "megabus" on the dashboard.

 * Our Bus runs service to/from New York.

 * You can find other bus services between New York and Baltimore at GoToBus.

Stations
Notable stations in Baltimore for intercity trains:

Train operators

 * Amtrak offers frequent, fast, and comfortable service to Baltimore between New York and Washington. If your trip originates in New York, Boston, or Philadelphia, which travel the same rail corridor, the train will be much more expensive than a bus, though service from most other destinations is often comparable in price to bus fares. Whether the train is a more affordable option than the bus depends on where you're coming from.  All Amtrak trains serving the Baltimore area stop at Penn Station, while some also BWI Airport station, which is in a suburban area not convenient for tourists.  Routes serving Baltimore include:
 * Acela travels multiple times daily between Boston and Washington, D.C. with stops in Westwood, Providence, New Haven, Stamford, New York City, Newark, Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore.
 * Cardinal operating three trips weekly between Chicago and New York City with stops in Dyer, Rensselaer, Lafayette, Crawfordsville, Indianapolis, Connersville, Cincinnati, Ashland, Huntington, Charleston, Hinton, White Sulphur Springs, Staunton, Charlottesville, Culpeper, Manassas, Alexandria, Washington, D.C., Baltimore, Wilmington, Philadelphia, Trenton, and Newark.
 * Carolinian between Charlotte and New York City via Washington, D.C.
 * Crescent between New Orleans and New York City via Atlanta and Washington, D.C.
 * Palmetto between Savannah and New York City
 * Northeast Regional is Amtrak's busiest regional service, connecting Boston, New York City, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, D.C., and the many towns and cities in-between. Toward the east end of the route, some trips terminate at Springfield instead of Boston. Some services also continue south into Virginia towards Newport News, Roanoke and Norfolk on three separate branch routes from Alexandria. This is also Amtrak's most frequent service, with multiple daily departures, and the longest trip takes 12.5 hours. Stops at Union Station and State Street.
 * Silver Meteor and Silver Star between Miami and New York City via Savannah.
 * Vermonter operates daily between St. Albans and Washington, D.C. including stops in Essex Junction, Waterbury, Montpelier, White River Junction, Claremont, Bellows Falls, Brattleboro, Greenfield, Northampton, Holyoke, Springfield, Windsor Locks, Hartford, Meriden, New Haven, Bridgeport, Stamford, New York City, Newark, Trenton, Philadelphia, Wilmington, Baltimore, and New Carrollton.

 * MARC commuter trains, which operate between Baltimore and Washington, D.C. At $9 each way, it's usually cheaper than Amtrak, and generally faster than driving. The Penn Line serves Penn Station, running throughout the day roughly once per hour on weekdays up until about 10:30PM. On weekends, Penn Line service operates at much reduced frequencies. The Camden Line serves the Camden Yards station, adjacent to the Orioles stadium and three blocks from the harbor proper; however, it runs only during the morning and evening rush hours. Both routes depart from Union Station in Washington.

By public transit

Public transportation in Baltimore is nothing spectacular. Fares to ride light rail, buses and subway are $2.00 each way, and $4.60 buys you a day pass that gets you unlimited rides on all three. You can buy the pass from any bus operator or vending machine at subway/light rail stations.

By light rail
As a general rule, the light rail system is far more useful for getting to the city than getting around within it. You may wish to park outside the city (for free!) and take the light rail in. The one useful section runs from Camden Yards up past Lexington Market to the Station North Arts District.

By subway
There is a single-line subway which runs from Johns Hopkins Hospital, through downtown, and out to the northwest suburbs of Pikesville and Owings Mills. The subway does not pass many tourist destinations and is mostly used by commuters.

By MTA bus
To get around Baltimore on the cheap by public transport, especially outside of the harbor area, the MTA buses are the way to go (though you will sacrifice convenience). MTA puts out very handy interactive maps of the downtown and regional bus routes, so you can plan ahead. Buses, like all of Baltimore's public transit, are well patrolled and safe.

By Charm City Circulator bus
Unlike the above three options, the Charm City Circulator is a city-run service. And unlike the above three options, the Circulator is free! Funded by parking taxes, several routes are now online:

 * The Orange Route runs east-west between Harbor East and Hollins Market.
 * The Purple Route runs north-south between Penn Station and Federal Hill.
 * The Green Route runs mostly east of downtown, serving Power Plant Live, Fells Point, and the Johns Hopkins medical complex.
 * The Banner Route runs from the Inner Harbor to Fort McHenry.

The buses, while smaller and quieter than the MTA trains, are more stylish and fun to ride. And they're ideal for people staying downtown looking for a very economical way to get out towards Fells Point, Federal Hill, Mount Vernon and other areas underserved by the MTA.

If staying outside the city and taking Light Rail or Metro Subway in, the Circulator routes were thankfully designed to coordinate with key stops like Baltimore Street, North Howard Street (along which the Light Rail runs), Charles Center and the Convention Center.

By car
You don't need a car to visit Baltimore, but it helps, especially if you're planning to visit some of the more outlying areas of the city which are poorly served by public transit.

Baltimore has an incomplete freeway system: freeway revolts in the 1970s halted the construction of a proposed east-west freeway that would have destroyed neighborhoods including historic Fells Point, so I-83 (known within the city as the Jones Falls Expressway) and I-395 both terminate downtown without connecting to each other. This accounts for heavy traffic downtown during rush hours and on game days. Pratt and Lombard streets can be particularly slow due to the confluence of car and pedestrian traffic around the harbor. If you're headed east or west across downtown, it's often quicker to drive a few blocks north to take U.S. Route 40, even if your destination is south of Route 40.

Streets in the central region of the city follow a grid pattern, with alternating one-way streets in many neighborhoods, particularly downtown and on the East Side. In the outer parts of the city, the street pattern becomes more suburban, centered around radial roads heading into and out of the central core. Charles Street divides "East" streets from "West," and Baltimore Street divides "North" from "South" (early city planners clearly had no idea of how far north the city would grow!) Streets that don't cross Charles Street or Baltimore Street don't have a directional label. Most Baltimore street signs have the block number on them, which helps with navigation.

It's not hard to find paid parking garages and lots near all the major sights in the city center, with rates that generally increase the closer you get to the Inner Harbor. Beyond the central neighborhoods, on-street parking is widely available. You pay for street parking at electronic kiosks with either cash or credit cards — you'll get a receipt stating the time at which your parking will expire, which you display on your dashboard. Parking enforcement in Baltimore is known to be ruthless.

By taxi
If you don't have a car, Baltimore has several reliable taxi companies. Taxi fares start at $1.80 and increase by 20¢ for each 1/11 mile ($2.20 per mile) or for 30 seconds of waiting time. It's easy to hail a cab on the street downtown, in Fells Point, and in Mount Vernon, but elsewhere you'll have to call.

By water taxi
One of the most popular (and unique!) modes of transportation in Baltimore is the water taxi system +1 410 563-3901. Rarely a useful mode of transport for everyday life, it is an especially nice way of touring the city's main sights for a day (and admiring the skyline from the water). From May–September, it stops throughout the Inner Harbor, Fells Point, Fort McHenry, and even Canton, at intervals of about 15 to 20 minutes. Day passes are $20 for adults, and $11 for kids under 12.

In cooperation with the Charm City Circulator system, some routes across the harbor are also free from 7AM to 7PM, including Maritime Park, Tide Point, and Canton Waterfront Park.

By bicycle
Biking is a fun way to explore Baltimore's neighborhoods, not to mention an activity in itself. Scenic areas to explore by bike include the affluent neighborhoods of North Baltimore, the Gwynns Falls Trail and Druid Hill Park on the West Side, and East Baltimore's Patterson Park. The city center is fairly flat, although the northern part of the city can get quite hilly.

Although Baltimore hasn't achieved the bicycle-friendliness of its neighbor to the south, the city government is making an effort, slowly installing new bike lanes and marked bicycle routes. Drivers are generally tolerant, although some are liable to pass uncomfortably close (Maryland law requires drivers to allow at least 3 feet when passing a bicyclist, but it's rarely enforced). The city publishes a handy Bicycle Map, available online and in print at bike shops.

You can bring bikes on Metro and Light Rail trains, but not MARC trains. All MTA buses (but not the Circulator) have a front-loading bike rack.

Three excellent bike shops are located in areas frequented by visitors: Light Street Cycles, located at 1124 Light Street in Federal Hill, less than a mile walk from the Inner Harbor; Baltimore Bicycle Works, at 1813 Falls Road near Penn Station; and Joe's Bike Shop at 723 S. Broadway in Fells Point. Light Street Cycles and Baltimore Bicycle Works offer bike rentals by the day.

Baltimore's bike scene has an irreverent side. Instead of a Critical Mass ride (where large groups of cyclists take over the street during rush hour to promote biking), Baltimore has the Baltimore Bike Party, a slow-paced, carousing mass ride replete with costumed riders, decorated bikes, and noisemakers. The Bike Party meets at 7PM at the Washington Monument in Mount Vernon the last Friday of every month; there's always an afterparty (and sometimes a pre-party) with food and beer.

Bicycle theft is a serious concern. You must have a strong, solid lock — a cable lock accomplishes little beyond advertising your bike as easy prey. In 2010 and 2011, there were reports of gangs assaulting cyclists and stealing their bikes after dark in the area between Midtown and Charles Village, North Avenue to 25th Street. Although such reports have been less frequent in the past couple years, it's safest to stick to well-lit, heavily-travelled streets after dark.

See
The Inner Harbor is the center of the city not only in the geographic but also in the tourist sense: it's a baffling, boisterous scene with plenty of eating and shopping, and often also live music by jazz groups, crooners, and the like. You'll hear Baltimoreans themselves scorn the Inner Harbor as a hypercommercialized tourist trap that's devoid of true local culture. While they have a point, the local perception is a bit of an exaggeration: prefab ambience or no, the harbor is a must-see attraction for visitors to Baltimore, not least because of the excellent museums and other attractions it offers. Highlights range from the Historic Ships in Baltimore (including the USS Constellation), the kid-friendly Maryland Science Center, the crowded and enormous National Aquarium, and the radically eccentric American Visionary Arts Museum. If you are into rail travel, be sure to visit the B&O Railroad Museum and the Baltimore Streetcar Museum.

For being smack-dab in the middle of the one of most historic cities in the U.S., the Inner Harbor itself is oddly devoid of history. However, the one exception to that rule is a big one indeed: Fort McHenry, which lies across the harbor at the tip of Locust Point. It gained an iconic status in American history by successfully defending the Baltimore harbor from the British naval bombardment in the War of 1812, at which time Francis Scott Key was inspired by the tattered but still waving American flag on the fort to write the poem that would later become the national anthem, the "Star-Spangled Banner".

The other marquee historical destination in Baltimore is just east of the Inner Harbor in Fells Point. Once a separate town founded in 1730, this area became wealthy throughout the 18th and 19th centuries on shipbuilding and the maritime trade (and anti-British privateering). Architecturally, little has changed for more than a century, and the cobblestone streets, old pubs, and quaint harbor area are more than enough to lure visitors.

While you won't run out of attractions to visit in the Inner Harbor, there are scads of other sites throughout the city that you should not miss. Look especially for Westminster Hall and Burying Ground downtown, the Maryland Zoo in Druid Hill Park, the original Washington Monument and the Walters Art Museum in Mount Vernon, and the Baltimore Museum of Art up by Johns Hopkins University. As well, Baltimore's rich black history and majority African-American demographics in the present make for a plethora of attractions relevant to African-American culture. The harrowing depictions of the brutality visited on African-American slaves at the Great Blacks in Wax Museum that haunt local schoolchildren's nightmares are miles away from the lighthearted kitsch you'll find at most wax museums; you'll find it in East Baltimore, on East North Avenue close to Johns Hopkins University. Meanwhile at the Inner Harbor, the Reginald F. Lewis Museum of Black History takes a more academic (and less lurid) approach.

Itineraries

 * The Mt. Vernon Tour -- a self-guided walking tour of Baltimore's federally recognized national heritage area.
 * The Wire Tour — a grand 3½-hour driving tour of prominent filming locations for the highly acclaimed HBO series, The Wire.
 * Baltimore Composers Tour -- a 3.5-hour, self-guided walking tour of sites relevant to Baltimore-related composers.

Sports
If there's one thing Baltimoreans love, it's sports — their tenacious loyalty to their local teams is remarkable even in the high-intensity world of American sports fanhood. That's especially true when it comes to Major League Baseball's Baltimore Orioles and the NFL's Baltimore Ravens, Charm City's representatives in the big four leagues of U.S. pro sports. Both of these teams' home stadiums are situated within a few blocks of each other in South Baltimore, just a stone's throw from the Inner Harbor: Camden Yards and M&T Bank Stadium, respectively.

Baltimore has teams playing in a number of smaller sports leagues, as well: the aging Royal Farms Arena downtown plays host to both the Major Indoor Soccer League's Baltimore Blast and the Arena Football League's Baltimore Brigade, while the Baltimore Nighthawks play women's football at Art Modell Field, at Mergenthaler Vocational-Technical High School in East Baltimore.

While college sports generally aren't anywhere near as big a deal on the East Coast as in the heartland, one major exception is worth noting: college lacrosse, which is more popular in Baltimore than perhaps any other American city. The Johns Hopkins Blue Jays (one of the most successful, oldest, and best-known college lacrosse teams in the United States, with nine divisional championships to their name) and the Loyola Greyhounds (famous for their string of successful seasons in the late 1980s and early 1990s) are the two big draws.

Outside of team sports, Pimlico Race Course in West Baltimore is famous as the home of the Preakness Stakes. Held every year on the third Saturday in May, the Preakness represents the second leg of the Triple Crown, a trio of thoroughbred races that represent the pinnacle of achievement in the storied tradition of American horse racing. As well, every year in October runners have the Baltimore Marathon to look forward to, which, far from a standalone event, is only the most prominent of several footraces that collectively make up the Baltimore Running Festival.

Festivals
Baltimore features a full calendar of fun festivals and events awaiting those with practically any interest under the sun. See the district articles for more on those.

One citywide event deserving of special note is Baltimore Pride, a two-day weekend festival held annually in June dedicated to celebrating Baltimore's LGBT community. There is a parade through the city, a festival in Druid Hill Park, and a block party in Mount Vernon, as well as other events.

Learn
With twelve colleges and universities attended by over 100,000 students from around the country — plus even more in the suburbs — it's not hard to see why one of Baltimore's nicknames is "College Town, USA". The largest and best-known of Baltimore's institutions of higher education is Johns Hopkins University, which offers a wide variety of degrees but is most renowned for its medical school, which consistently ranks as one of the best in the country. Other large colleges and universities within Baltimore include the Jesuit-run, Roman Catholic Loyola University Maryland, the public University of Maryland, Baltimore (which only admits students in selected professional fields, namely the health sciences, social work, and law), and the historically African-American Coppin State University and Morgan State University. Just outside the city limits is the University of Maryland, Baltimore County, better known as UMBC; unlike its Baltimore sister campus, it offers extensive undergraduate programs. UMBC, however, may now be most famous for the epic upset that its men's basketball team sprung against top-ranked Virginia in the 2018 NCAA tournament.

Buy
It will be no surprise to anyone that a huge city like Baltimore has something for everyone when it comes to shopping. The Inner Harbor boasts outlets of all the typical large national retail chains in close proximity to the tourist hotels. If small boutiques are more what you're after, try the historic marine neighborhood of Fells Point, upscale Federal Hill, or quirky Hampden. Antiquers should make sure to include a stroll along the downtown Avenue of Arts, also known as the Antique Row, where the antiques trade has dominated the retail scene for over a hundred years (although the Antique Row saw its heyday in the 1960s, it remains a great place to search for historic memorabilia or antique treasures). Of course, you'll also find a range of malls in the Downtown area.

There are often souvenir shops in many of the interesting attractions, providing expensive, but unique, items. Keep in mind that many of these are tourist traps. Wegmans and IKEA are just a short drive away.

Local specialties
A wide variety of dining options can be found in Baltimore, but no visit to Maryland is complete without a sampling of the local favorite: steamed crabs! During the summer harvest season (May to September), picking crabs or indulging in a crab feast is a popular way to spend the afternoon with family and friends. However, offseason, crab may be imported from as far away as Texas. Steamed shrimp, corn on the cob, and beer are popular side dishes. If steamed crabs are too adventurous, you should at least sample a crab cake, crab bisque, or vegetable crab soup.

Then again, if crabs aren't adventurous enough, there is an impressive range of unique and offbeat local foods that most visitors never hear about, the preeminent among which is the Baltimore pit beef sandwich. An odd tradition born of the intersection of the American barbecue tradition with the culinary tastes of Baltimore's Polish immigrants, pit beef is slowly barbecued all day and night in a deep pit, then put on a kaiser roll with toppings of onions and horseradish to your liking (don't wuss out on the horseradish — it's an integral part of the experience). It's best served very rare. Unfortunately, pit beef can be hard to come by within the city limits. Your best best is probably Chaps, located next to an industrial area on the extreme east of the city.

Vying for local fast-food preeminence is Baltimore lake trout. It's a bit of a misnomer: neither is it trout (it's whitefish) not does it come from a lake. But it is impressively fresh, lightly breaded, surprisingly not so greasy, inexpensive, and just all around finger-licking good. It's a sandwich, but only in the loosest of terms; you get such a huge quantity of fish that it's impossible to actually eat it within the bun. In opposition to East Baltimore's pit beef (that petty east-west rivalry again), lake trout is decidedly a West Baltimore specialty. The question of where to get the best fish is a matter of contention, but the most accessible and visitor-friendly outlet — The Roost — is also one of the regular contenders in the endless debate.

Coddies represent the final major player in local fast-food lore. Nothing fancy here — it's a thick, satisfying cod cake served in a sandwich of two saltine crackers, ideally topped with simple yellow mustard. They can be hard to find, but you'll get great ones at Faidley's for absurdly low prices.

Save a little room for Berger cookies from DeBaufre Bakeries. These are soft, slightly dry cookies slathered with fudge frosting and are available at multiple grocery stores around town.

Restaurant districts
The market place, near the harbor, is full of fresh seafood and food bars. But for a more local experience, head to the neighborhoods surrounding it: Little Italy, Fells Point, Federal Hill, Canton Square, Greektown, and Mount Washington feature local and international cuisine.

Lexington Market is an especially popular lunchtime destination, with countless vendors selling all kinds of food imaginable. There are standing tables in an open area on the ground floor, as well as a large seating area on the upper level above that. If you are looking for a deep Baltimore culinary experience, head to the aforementioned Faidley's, where you can get your coddies, some of the world's most acclaimed jumbo lump crab cakes, and even local artifacts like terrapin, raccoon, and muskrat! (Those artifacts are available only seasonally, and only to take home to cook.)

If you wish for a more formal dinner (with prices to match), try the business district. Also of note is the local dinner theatre, Toby's, which for a sizable price will give you a fancy three-course buffet dinner and a roughly two-hour theatre production.

Baltimore has a smoke-free ordinance, so all restaurants and bars are completely non-smoking.

Drink
The two neighborhoods with the largest concentrations of drinking establishments and clubs are Fells Point and the Inner Harbor. Fells Point is the city's most popular district for both eating and drinking, located about a 15 minute walk or a short cab ride from downtown. Many bars in this area feature live music and most have excellent selections of Maryland and imported craft beers. Meanwhile, the Inner Harbor nightlife scene is centered on Powerplant Live!, a two-block area of nothing but bars, clubs and restaurants. It has an outdoor area featuring music and other events during good weather. This is the Inner Harbor at its most tourist-trappy — drinks and food are low-quality and overpriced — but even the hippest Baltimore hipsters will find themselves here every now and then for the free concerts. Other fine wining (or boozing) and dining neighborhoods include Canton Square, Mount Vernon, Federal Hill, Hampden, and the Station North Arts and Entertainment District.

National Bohemian (affectionately known as "Natty Boh") is the popular local cheap beer. They are generally no more than $2-3 anywhere in Baltimore, and most places serve them in cans.

The ever-rising wave of craft brewing has not passed by Baltimore. The city boasts dozens of local craft beers that can be found throughout the city (especially in Fells Point). Most craft breweries also operate their own tap rooms, welcoming visitors for a fresh pint and often a brewery tour. (If you're traveling with your best friend, Monument City Brewing is the most dog friendly brewery in the city.) The most well-established breweries are Brewers Art (inspired by the classic ales of Belgium) and Oliver's, both of which have been slaking thirsts in Charm City since the 1990s. Other notable local craft breweries include Union Craft Brewery and Mobtown Brewing, among many more exciting, younger breweries.

All bars in Baltimore (and the state of Maryland) are completely non-smoking.

Sleep
The vast majority of visitors stay in the Inner Harbor, right by the main attractions. Few cities have such a well-defined tourist district, and it is therefore no surprise that nearly all the major hotels in the city are located there.

Business travelers can certainly stay in the Inner Harbor and remain close to the central business district, and thus get better views from their rooms. But the most convenient business hotels, chain hotels all, are located downtown. The business district is not a very good location if you are looking for nightlife — after being duly creeped out by the emptiness of the downtown streets after dark, you'll only give up and head to the Harbor or Midtown anyway.

Now if you prefer to stay in a quieter area, with more local character and better dining and nightlife options, you should look to Fells Point as the natural option. However, even further off the beaten path, you can find lovely bed and breakfasts and boutique hotels in Federal Hill, Midtown, or Canton. The Midtown hotels in particular benefit from good public transportation (a rarity in the city) to Downtown and the Inner Harbor.

For those on a tighter budget, there's an HI hostel downtown, and several of the bed and breakfasts can also be a bargain.

Stay safe
Baltimore's reputation as a dangerous city was cemented internationally by the HBO series The Wire — a reputation that's not entirely unwarranted, but with which the average traveler should not get overly concerned. Most crime occurs between individuals that know each other, or in impoverished areas of the city, where tourists will have little reason to go. Few if any travelers will have any encounters with that isolated culture of drug and gang-related activity. Muggings are the crime for tourists to be concerned with.

The areas of Baltimore that attract tourists are safe. You shouldn't worry when going to the opera, museums, aquarium, etc. The popular Inner Harbor area in particular is saturated with police day and night, as the city government relies heavily on this area to bring in locals and tourists and to generate tax revenue. Some areas just north of the waterfront (downtown above the Inner Harbor around Lexington Market, and around the big public housing projects just northeast of Little Italy) can get a little dodgy after dark, and even during the day sometimes. If you're parking your car on-street in the Charles Street entertainment district or even in Fells Point, don't leave anything — even trash — visible in your car, in order to deter smash-and-grab robberies. Generally, the worst annoyance for tourists and residents around downtown are the homeless and/or drug addicts, who ask for money. Most will leave you alone if they do or don't receive anything from you. If one starts following you, it's best to ignore them and keep walking, as they almost always give up after a few seconds. Avoid confrontations or yelling back.

Above all, though, just exercise the usual precautions for any large American city: know where you are going and how you are getting there. At night, walk in groups if possible and on well-lit streets, and do not carry large amounts of money. Call a cab if the trip back at night seems beyond your comfort zone.

Connect
Some restaurants and many libraries have WiFi in Baltimore. There is free City WiFi in parts of the Inner Harbor, and it's available in other areas of Baltimore by subscription.

Publications

 * The Baltimore Sun is Baltimore's daily newspaper.
 * The Baltimore Banner has Baltimore's second-biggest newsroom.
 * The Baltimore Brew is a local news site started by a former Washington Post reporter.
 * The Baltimore Beat is a free alternative weekly newspaper. It began publishing in 2017 right after the long-running Baltimore City Paper ceased publication.
 * The Bohemian is a bi-monthly alternative Baltimore magazine.
 * The AFRO has served Baltimore's black community since 1892.

Consulates

 * 🇧🇪 Belgium
 * 🇫🇮 Finland
 * 🇮🇹 Italy
 * 🇳🇵 Nepal

Go next

 * Annapolis — Maryland's charming, historic, pint-sized state capital, and home of the U.S. Naval Academy can be done as a day trip from Baltimore via public trans
 * Ellicott City — a wealthy Baltimore suburb with a charming old-fashioned main street
 * Philadelphia — the birthplace of American independence and the nation's sixth largest city
 * Washington, D.C. — the nation's capital is home of some of America's most iconic historic sites, as well as a bevy of free museums courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution Accessible by Amtrak, MARC Train, Flixbus, and Greyhound.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Baltimore


text:
Baltimore (disambiguation)

There is more than one place called Baltimore:

Ireland

 * Baltimore (Ireland) - A town in County Cork.

United States of America

 * Baltimore - A city in Maryland.
 * Baltimore County - A county in Central Maryland surrounding the city of Baltimore.

title: Baltimore (disambiguation)


text:
Baltimore (Ireland)

Baltimore is a village in County Cork near the southwest tip of Ireland. The harbour is large, and sheltered by islands - several are inhabited and are also described on this page. The main reason to visit is for activities such as sailing, scuba-diving and sea-angling.

Understand
In the early 1600s the village thrived on pilchard fishing and piracy. Everyone was in on the piracy: the sailors, the law and customs officers, the landowners; probably even the pilchards were in on it. But in 1631 Baltimore was attacked by a rival band of pirates from North Africa; the village was destroyed, at least 100 were carried off into slavery, and the survivors fled inland to Skibbereen. The village was virtually abandoned until the 19th century, and its regeneration was hampered by famine and remoteness. It's nowadays a resort village with a population in 2016 of 232, but many more in summer.

Get in
Bus 237 runs four times M-F and twice on Saturday from Skibbereen, taking 20 min. Skibbereen has buses every couple of hours from Cork via Bandon and Clonakilty.

By car leave N71 at Skibbereen and follow R595.

Get around
Get around the village on foot, and also the islands in the bay: they're too small to merit a bike. You need wheels to reach Skibbereen as the road is narrow and busy with no sidewalk.

has foot-passenger ferries to the islands. The main routes sail daily year-round, as islanders depend on them, e.g., to get to school; additional routes are summer only. There are no connecting ferries between the islands, you have to back-track via the mainland. No bicycles, but small cargo is carried: a sack of potatoes or a lobster pot would be €0.70.
 * - Sherkin Island ferry sails hourly, 10 min. Adult return is €12, child €4.
 * - Cape Clear ferry sails 2-4 times a day, 40 min. Adult return is €18, child €8. They also sail to Cape Clear from Schull, and operate trips to Fastnet.
 * - Heir Island is usually reached by the 5-min ferry from, which sails every two hours. Adult return is €6, student €3, child over 5 €2 (June 2024).

Cape Clear and Sherkin Island both have a minibus, which you don't need unless arriving with luggage and small children. The few cars on the islands are decrepit and wouldn't be legal on mainland roads.

See

 * The harbour is the lively centrepiece of the village.
 * or "Lot's Wife" stands at the harbour entrance. Built in 1849, it's simply a day-mark and never had a light.
 * is a 19th-century lookout, though it was Napoleon rather than Spain they were anxious about. The landowner has blocked access to the tower but you can admire the view. Also inaccessible is the "29 EIRE" marker 200 m south. These were set up around the coast during World War II, from #1 at Dundalk clockwise to #82 at Malin Head, to show aircraft that they were flying over neutral Ireland.
 * 5 km east of the village is a lake almost completely closed off from the sea, so the tides rush in and out through rapids. It's a nature reserve.
 * Carbery's Hundred Isles is the flowery name for the archipelago in Roaringwater Bay off Baltimore, though the number is more like 50 if you discount tide-washed rocks. Several are inhabited and can be reached by a short ferry ride. You can stay over, but they have limited accommodation or other facilities, so most visitors just day trip.
 * has a ruined abbey and sandy beaches.
 * , 2 km further west, can also be reached from Schull. It has several standing stones, a passage tomb, a Napoleonic-era signal tower, and a museum and heritage centre.
 * (or Hare) can also be reached from Cunnamore. It has beaches and a nature reserve.
 * Ringarogy Island 1 km north of Baltimore is an island nowadays linked by road. It's just farmland.
 * Inish Beg is a smaller island (the name's a clue) just north of Ringarogy. It's likewise farmland and linked to the mainland by road.
 * Long Island or Inishfada is reached from Schull.
 * Long Island or Inishfada is reached from Schull.
 * is a wave-lashed islet with a lighthouse, 13 km beyond the Cork mainland, which gives its name to a sea area on BBC shipping forecasts. It's the most southerly point in Ireland and for many transatlantic emigrants it was their last glimpse of the old country. It's often used as the turnaround point in yacht races: best known is the Fastnet Race from Cowes (Isle of Wight) to Fastnet and back to Plymouth, 1126 km. The main rock has been unpopulated since the lighthouse was automated in 1989, so you can probably guess the population of Little Fastnet 10 m south. Boat trips visit in summer from Baltimore and Schull; they are highly dependent on the weather, as Atlantic conditions can turn foul so quickly. A wind gust of 191 km/h was recorded here in 2017, and in 1985 the lighthouse was hit by a 48-m wave. A storm during the 1979 Fastnet Race cost the lives of 15 competitors and 4 rescuers, sank five boats outright and overturned 75 more.

Do

 * Whale Watch West Cork have regular trips.
 * Scuba diving operators are Baltimore Diving and Aquaventures, both near the harbour. All levels from recreational to technical, but this is dry-suit territory.
 * Fastnet boat trips are run by Cape Clear Ferries. They sail from Baltimore via Cape Clear Island Apr-Sep, and from Schull Jul-Aug: all trips are highly dependent on the weather. The trip from Baltimore sails 2 or 3 days a week and takes 3 hours, €45 per person.

Buy

 * Gala Convenience Store (aka Cotter's) by the harbour has groceries, newspapers and a cashpoint.

Eat

 * Casey's of Baltimore does good seafood, see Sleep.
 * Casey's of Baltimore does good seafood, see Sleep.

Drink

 * Other pubs are Algiers Inn, Jacob's Bar within Waterfront Hotel, and West Cork microbrewery part of Casey's Hotel.
 * Cape Clear Distillery on that island produces gin. They don't offer tours.
 * Cape Clear Distillery on that island produces gin. They don't offer tours.

Sleep

 * The nearest campsite and caravan park is in Skibbereen.
 * B&Bs include The Stone House, Fastnet House, Beacon Shore Guesthouse and The Slipway.
 * B&Bs include The Stone House, Fastnet House, Beacon Shore Guesthouse and The Slipway.
 * B&Bs include The Stone House, Fastnet House, Beacon Shore Guesthouse and The Slipway.

Connect
As of March 2023, Baltimore has 4G from all Irish carriers, but the signal is poor along the approach roads. 5G has not reached this area.

Go next

 * All roads out lead through Skibbereen. East from there brings you into softer coastal country towards Clonakilty and eventually Cork.
 * Turn west for Schull and Mizen Head.
 * Bantry a few km north is a good base for all three western peninsulas: Mizen Head, Sheep's Head and Beara.

title: Baltimore (Ireland)


text:
Baltimore/Downtown

Downtown Baltimore is Baltimore's central business district and seat of the city government. While home to some iconic Baltimore architecture, and the city's economic heart, visitors, and even locals, tend to keep their distance from this often seedy and decidedly unloved city center, unless they are going to the Baltimore Arena, the Hippodrome Theatre, or visiting Poe's grave at Westminster Hall. Don't make the all-too-frequent mistake of skipping (or fearing) Lexington Market, though, which can be an easy highlight of a visit to the city—on a hungry stomach!

Get in
Downtown is nothing if not easy to get to, being just north of the Inner Harbor, off I-395, and on all major public transportation routes.

By car
There are many parking garages downtown, with an especially convenient one just north of Lexington Market on N Paca St. Coming in from I-95, take exit #53 for I-395, which will dump you on northbound Howard St, straight through Downtown. The B-W Pkwy will terminate on the even more useful Paca St. If coming from the north on I-83, take the right turn for Fayette St.

By light rail

The light rail has two very handy stops at Lexington St (for Lexington Market), and Baltimore St (for the Baltimore Arena and Hippodrome Theatre).

By Metro
Yes, even the rarely used Metro has a few good stops downtown: Lexington Market, Charles Center, and Shot Tower Station.

By bus
With the convenience of the light rail, it's unlikely that you would want to catch a slow, semi-reliable local bus, but #7 would take you down Greene St from Lexington Market through the Inner Harbor, on to Fells Point and then on to Canton. If you are going to Federal Hill, or further to Fort McHenry, Bus #1 picks up at Baltimore St and Paca St. The Circulator's Orange route will also traverse Baltimore St eastbound to Fells Point, and its Purple route runs up Charles St through Midtown to Penn Station.

See

Do
The big downtown performance venues are the Baltimore Arena and the Hippodrome, but check Current Gallery's website (see ) for some more off-the-wall DIY-ish performances too.

Buy

Eat
Baltimore's Downtown business and government district is honestly kind of run down. Crime at night is higher than it should be. Accordingly, high end restaurants are few, and the options are dominated by cheap, quick lunch-focused cafes—you'll need to go north to Midtown or south to the Inner Harbor for more options.

Lexington Market, on the other hand, is honestly a can't miss for anyone with a real interest in Baltimore, as it has several of the best places in the city for some true Baltimore cuisine, as well as history and local color. Don't let the seedy looking surroundings scare you, as you'll be perfectly safe during the day.

Budget

 * If you are looking for a deep Baltimore culinary experience, head to standing-room-only Faidley's, where you can get your coddies, some of the world's most acclaimed jumbo lump crab cakes, and even local artifacts like terrapin, raccoon, and muskrat! (Those artifacts are available only seasonally, and only to take home to cook.)
 * The best dessert in Lexington Market, if not all of Baltimore, are Bergers Cookies. These sugar cookies hidden under a ridiculous amount of chocolate fudge frosting are sold by the pound from the Berger Bakery stall.
 * The best dessert in Lexington Market, if not all of Baltimore, are Bergers Cookies. These sugar cookies hidden under a ridiculous amount of chocolate fudge frosting are sold by the pound from the Berger Bakery stall.

Drink
Downtown nightlife suffers from the same plight of nice restaurants—no one really likes being downtown after dark, unless for a performance or game at the Hippodrome or Baltimore Arena. Options are few, unless you are looking for the packed, neon-soaked row of strip clubs on The Block: E Baltimore St between Holliday/Commerce St and Gay St. The infamous block began as a premiere destination for burlesque shows in the early 20th century, but by the mid-century had transformed into a seedy stretch of low-rent strip clubs and sex shops. This, ah, turned on the criminal element to the locale, introducing drugs and violence. The city has never succeeded in shutting down the craziness, but instead put the new Baltimore Police Department Headquarters right next door, which has helped reduce violent crime on The Block in a big way. The strip clubs are getting a little less seedy too. If this is your thing, Norma Jean's would be the most upscale.

Mid-range

Connect
Short on coffeeshops, you'll want to head to Enoch Pratt Library, dodging the crowds of homeless inside, to either use the public terminals or free Wi-Fi.

Stay safe
Sadly, Downtown is one of those parts of Baltimore that is not safe by any standards. Sandwiched between pleasant Midtown and the tourist hub of the Inner Harbor, housing the principal businesses in the city and a major university, this should not be the case, but it's Baltimore, folks. Don't run in fear and cowardice—definitely check out Lexington Market, see Poe's Grave, attend a performance at the Hippodrome, or a game at the Baltimore Arena, and bring your family, but be safe. Minimize walking, avoid lonely streets, and park in a well lit area, with no valuables (or really anything) visible.

title: Baltimore/Downtown


text:
Baltimore/East Baltimore

East Baltimore is a sparsely populated, mostly residential district covering about a third of the entire city in the very rough east of downtown and the more suburban-feeling northeast.

Understand
East Baltimore is notable principally for helping to keep Baltimore's homicides per capita among the highest in the nation, and unsurprisingly has been used as a filming location for both the Wire and more extensively for Homicide: Life on the Street. It is also home to the Johns Hopkins Medical Campus, which is somewhat controversially demolishing the blighted neighborhoods that surround it in order to accommodate its ever rapid expansion. Displaced residents are not pleased, but Johns Hopkins is the single most powerful institution in the city, and the hospital is likely to get its way! Sensing neighborhood change in the wake of the expansion, real estate developers have been buying up properties by the block, looking to turn them into condos, leaving swathes with the appearance of a shiny new ghost town. The city government is quite interested in renovating areas so close to downtown (for the new tax base that would bring), particularly in the borderline ghost town of Old Town. A yuppified East Baltimore is at least a possibility in the future, but what a contrast that would be to the present reality!

Northeast Baltimore is an entirely different animal, with some really interesting neighborhoods, especially Hamilton and Lauraville along Harford Road. Expect quaint strips with nice restaurants, cafes, and local shops. Harford Road might ring a bell for film lovers of the eccentric variety—it was brought into the popular consciousness by John Waters' 2004 film, A Dirty Shame.

By public transport
East Baltimore is a pretty huge area, when you account for the whole northeast of the city, so how to get in will depend on what part you mean to visit. The only part of East Baltimore that can make sense to visit via public transport is the Johns Hopkins Hospital area, which is served by the little-known Baltimore Metro, which runs to the JH Hospital station from the Inner Harbor, Lexington Market, and Midtown, as well as by Bus #35, coming to the hospital from Pratt St in the Inner Harbor. Bus #13 is also of potential use, as it runs south from Hopkins along Wolfe to either Fell's Point or Canton (depending on the routing of the specific bus) and north along Washington before turning west on North Ave, going past Great Blacks in Wax, Greenmount Cemetery, and on to North Charles St in Midtown.

For the more interesting neighborhoods of Lauraville and Hamilton, Bus #19 runs up along their main commercial corridor, Harford Rd, from Pratt St in the Inner Harbor all the way out of the city to the northeast (note that #35 service is suspended 1:30AM-4AM daily).

For Chaps Pit Beef, if you are feeling too stubbornly adventurous to go there properly via car, you can take Bus #35 past Johns Hopkins Hospital and all the way out the Pulaski Highway. If you miss it, though, you'll wind up lost all the way out in boring old White Marsh.

By car
A car is the only truly sensible way for a visitor to get around East Baltimore. It is safer and more convenient, and you will find parking basically everywhere. Monument St and Orleans St/Pulaski Hwy (US-40) are the main east west roads, with Harford Rd and Belair Rd serving as the main northeast radials from the city center.

I-95 and I-895 clip the eastern edge of the city. Coming from the north, use Exit 13 off I-895 for US-40/Pulaski Hwy. From the south, use Exit 14 for Moravia Rd. Both northbound and southbound I-95 traffic can use Exit 61 for US-40/Pulaski Hwy. For Lauraville and Hamilton, Harford Rd intersects with the Baltimore Beltway (I-695) at Exit 31.

Connect
Some restaurants and all public libraries provide WiFi. There are other areas where you can get it by subscription.

title: Baltimore/East Baltimore


text:
Baltimore/Fells Point

Fells Point is a historic maritime neighborhood east of Baltimore's Inner Harbor area that contains the city's densest collection of pubs, bars, and restaurants (good ones, that is).

Understand

Founded in 1763 and incorporated into the city in 1773, Fells Point is comfortably Baltimore's most charming historic district—indeed, it was Maryland's first designated historic district. The harbor rose to prominence in the early nineteenth century as both a principal destination for immigrants arriving from Europe and for the U.S. shipbuilding industry. Fells Point was the birthplace of the first frigate of the Continental Navy, the Virginia, as well as the famed Baltimore Clipper: a fast ship used for privateering and blockade running to much success during the War of 1812. The wild success of the ships were in no small part responsible for the Battle of Baltimore—the British Navy targeted Baltimore in order to halt the production of these ships, responsible for so much damage to the Royal Treasury!

Fells Point was largely spared the decline faced by the rest of the city in the second half of the twentieth century, owing to the fact that it is simply beautiful. Preservationists kept a close watch on the condition of local historic buildings, and had financial muscle to back them up from wealthy locals who stayed here for the beautiful historic streets, and from businesses, many of which are built on the important tourist sector.

There are a host of other small neighborhoods in and on the periphery of Fells Point, the best known of which is Little Italy, a tiny neighborhood with a very tightly knit Italian immigrant community. Pretty, safe, authentic, and with wonderful food, it's a highlight of any Baltimore visit (as long as you dodge the odd couple of tourist trap restaurants).

Jonestown is now thoroughly off the tourist radar, having undergone serious economic decline after the construction of low income housing projects in the mid-twentieth century, but has a fascinating history as the one-time center of Baltimore's Jewish Community, and is today home to the Jewish Museum of Maryland. Beautiful Upper Fells Point is quieter and more residential than its bigger neighbor, but does have a few fantastic cheap Mexican restaurants worth seeking out, as it is home to Baltimore's most rapidly growing Latino community. Butcher's Hill, a one-time German-American and Jewish stronghold, is pretty enough, and undergoing a wave of new construction and development near Johns Hopkins University Hospital, but does not have any significant attractions for visitors.

Watch
Fells Point was the principal filming location for the national crime drama Homicide: Life on the Street, which can make for interesting viewing before or after a visit. Don't expect your visit to share much in common with the stories on the show, though—you are highly unlikely to experience any crime while walking the harbor and its restaurants and shops, really any time of day.

Fells Point was also briefly seen in the movie Sleepless in Seattle. The character Becky (played by Rosie O'Donnell) can be seen exiting her car with a bag of groceries while tugboats moored at city pier can be seen in the background.

Fells Point Diner was also the fictional late night eating stop in the movie Diner - where the ensemble characters gathered to bicker about the night's events and multiple mundane topics of daily life.

By car
Parking is actually not that hard in Fells Point, although you will need to hunt a little bit for a parallel parking spot. Residential parking is limited to two free hours, after that you may find your car towed. Read the signs carefully. There are also a good number of metered spots on Broadway and around the harbor, which you can pay via credit card at the meter machines.

Fleet St and Broadway are the main avenues, although they are usually terribly backed up with traffic.

By Circulator bus
The Orange route comes in from the Inner Harbor and runs up Central Ave through Little Italy before returning Downtown.

By water taxi
Ed Kane's Water Taxi, +1 410 563-3901, stops at the Broadway Pier, connecting to the Inner Harbor, as well as Fort McHenry in South Baltimore and Canton to the east. Day passes, adults: $9.00, kids under 10: $4.00. May–December only.

By bus
The quite useful, if overcrowded and a bit unreliable, public Bus #11 runs along Fleet St going east to Canton and west to the Inner Harbor, and then on through Downtown to Midtown and on to Johns Hopkins Main Campus in North Baltimore.

Do

Buy
Fells Point is simply put the best shopping district in the city, with a clear focus on smaller boutique stores. It's not the cheapest section of town, but its unique stores make for a great browse even if you don't feel like maxing out your credit cards.

Eat
Fells Point and its surroundings have a real wealth of restaurants, ranging from cheap, delicious Latino dives to upscale contemporary American—some of the finest in the city. And then of course, there is Little Italy, which is arguably Baltimore's favorite place to dine. It's 100% authentic, and has options ranging from affordable and hearty family-style dining to romantic and intimate to the high end foodie heaven at Aldo's.

Budget

Splurge

Drink
It is profoundly easy to find a drink in Fells Point, and to find others to share it with—there is an astounding number of pubs in the small neighborhood.

Walk around the main streets, and you'll find every other door is both open and bearing a chalk board listing their ridiculous specials, like $6 for all you can drink mimosas over a period of ten hours on Sunday. The bars here are less offbeat than you'd find in other parts of the city, with a bit wider appeal—they tend towards the more traditional faux-Irish pubs. While it's quite easy to go awry with the local restaurants (tourist traps abound), you can have a great bar experience just by walking around and following your intuition. Live music is commonplace throughout the bars every night of the week.

Sleep
The Inner Harbor is where you'll find the big upscale chain hotels, but Fells Point will give you a lot more local flavor, with smaller inns available, principally historic bed and breakfasts.

Connect

Stay safe
For the most part, this is a very safe section of Baltimore, and you are unlikely to run into any trouble in the well-trafficked neighborhoods of Little Italy and Fells Point. But as with much of Baltimore, rough neighborhoods are not far away—it's best to avoid walking through the Perkins Homes housing projects, and to remain vigilant in Jonestown. The one type of crime that affects visitors in this area is smash-and-grab theft of belongings from parked vehicles; you should keep your car clean, with any items tucked away in the trunk or glove compartment.

Go next
Visitors staying here might find that they don't have much desire to leave. Fells Point has pretty much all you need for a really nice vacation. Of course, don't miss the major attractions in the Inner Harbor or Fort McHenry across the harbor in Locust Point. If you are feeling like a bit of an adventure, though, a trip east to Greektown can make for a very rewarding dining experience. If the nightlife here feels a little too conventional, and you would like to experience a bit of Baltimore's famous quirky/offbeat life (or, for that matter, the opera), hop a cab over to Midtown.

title: Baltimore/Fells Point


text:
Baltimore/Inner Harbor

The Inner Harbor is the heart of Baltimore, and the standard-bearer of its industrial and maritime heritage. In the 1950s, the area became an industrial wasteland and the buildings were eventually replaced with parkland for public uses and events. In the decades that followed continued investment in the area has renewed the harbor. It now is home to the lion's share of Baltimore's tourist attractions, and accordingly, its tourists.

Understand
The Inner Harbor's relatively shallow waters have long played second fiddle to Baltimore's deep water harbors in the south of the city. Unable to accommodate large freighters, the port received light freight and passenger traffic, but even in these categories, the Inner Harbor lagged behind the busier docks at Fell's Point. Consequently, despite its central location, the Inner Harbor always remained underdeveloped, and more than a little seedy.

In the 1960s, particularly after the 1968 riots following the assassination of Martin Luther King Jr that devastated the city, the Inner Harbor sunk into decline with the rest of the city, leaving the waterfront dominated by abandoned warehouses, deteriorating industrial buildings, and open grassy areas for the occasional festival.

In 1980, in what was considered nothing but hopeless folly, Mayor D'Alesandro Jr. came up with an expensive plan to revitalize the Inner Harbor, starting with the construction of the waterfront Harborplace, a big, attractive, indoor mall filled with shops and cafeteria dining. Shortly thereafter the city built the National Aquarium and Maryland Science Center, and lo and behold, the plan was a spectacular success, and the Inner Harbor took off and hasn't looked back.

Today, the Inner Harbor is the city centerpiece, Maryland's number one tourist destination, and the single biggest economic boon for the city. The views across the harbor and its ships towards the old Domino Sugar Factory in the south and the skyscrapers, including the Maryland World Trade Center, in the north are the icons of the city. Restaurants and big hotels line the waterfront, and tourists fill the streets, promenade, and piers. The Inner Harbor is less popular with locals, however, so you would do well to get out a bit to other neighborhoods like Fell's Point and Midtown to get a better feel for the local culture!

The Inner Harbor is one of the 3 sections of downtown that makeup the "Charm'tastic Mile", a 1.3-mile corridor of shops, bars, restaurants and museums that connects Downtown-West, the Inner Harbor & Harbor East. Baltimore was nicknamed "the Charm City" in 1975 by then Mayor William Donald Shaefer. The Charm'tastic Mile was introduced to the city in 2016.

By car
The most direct route to the Inner Harbor area from outside the city would be from I-95. Take exit 53, which dumps you on to Howard St. Parking can be messy and/or expensive, and garages will be the only option available. If you want to park on-street, you could try Fells Point to the east, which will leave you with about a 15- to 20-minute walk to the Aquarium.

By light rail
Light rail lines stop at Camden Yards, running north through Downtown and Lexington Market, and on to Penn Station; south to BWI airport.

By Circulator bus
The Circulator has two relevant routes. The orange line will take you east on Pratt almost to the edge of Fells Point, with a quick stop in Little Italy, before returning west on Lombard and running to the University of Maryland, Baltimore. The purple line runs south on Light St to Federal Hill and north on Calvert St to reach Charles St through Mt Vernon and Midtown.

By water taxi
Baltimore Water Taxi, +1 410-563-3901, stops at the Rusty Scupper, the Science Center, Harbor Place, the Aquarium, Pier 5, and Harbor East, with connections to popular tourist stops in South Baltimore, like Fort McHenry, as wells piers in Fells Point and Canton to the east. Day passes, adults: $20, kids under 12: $11. May–December only.

By bus
Visitors to the city don't really use the bus system, but if you are feeling intrepid, there are a handful of useful routes.

#11, if you pick it up on Pratt St on the harbor, will take you east to the heart of Fells Point, and then on to Canton. If you take it from Lombard St (one block north of the harbor), it will take you north up Charles St through the heart of Midtown and on to Johns Hopkins' main campus. The northern route returns to the Inner Harbor from Midtown via Cathedral Ave. #1 runs south on Light St through Federal Hill and on to Fort McHenry via Fort Ave.

See
The Inner Harbor is packed full of attractions, and is Maryland's destination number one for sightseeing. The most popular is without question the National Aquarium, which is almost an obligatory stop, but the ships and the Maritime Museum are a close second. The Maryland Science Center is a fantastic place to spend a half day with children, and the American Visionary Art Museum is an intriguing and unique gallery for anyone with the remotest interest in the arts.

Do

Buy
Harborplace offers a ton of shopping right by the main hotels, but outside of the mall, you won't find a lot of shopping here. If you are interested in more local shopping—boutiques, local flavor, etc.—a good bet are the many shops to the east in Fell's Point.

Eat
You'll find many chain restaurants in Inner Harbor, ranging from the cheap like Potbelly or Chipotle to the more expensive McCormick & Schmick's or the Capital Grille; American and Canadian tourists will pretty much know what to expect. Don't bother with the food at Power Plant Live! just north of the harbor, as it's overpriced for the quality of food you get. The majority of the really good options will be east of the Aquarium in the burgeoning and uber-yuppie neighborhood of "Harbor East." Further north in the Downtown district, you'll find more local fare at Lexington Market, and one terrific local steakhouse. Going east to Fells Point and Little Italy is without a doubt the best option for dinner if you don't fancy the options here.

Drink
The Inner Harbor is the worst place in Baltimore for nightlife, barring the barren and dangerous neighborhoods of East and West Baltimore. It's safe here, and within easy striking distance of the big hotels, but the nightlife is almost completely manufactured for tourism, and is accordingly overpriced, plagued by poor service, and won't give you much any idea of what local nightlife is actually about. Nonetheless there are a handful of decent options, and while a tourist trap, Power Plant Live can still be a good time if you know what to expect, and don't mind it being a bit touristy. The one real standout option that does bring in locals from other parts of the city is the wine bar in Harbor East, listed above, Vino Rosina.

If the nightlife here is not to your liking, it is easy enough to go local and leave the Harbor. Just east is Fell's Point, which is arguably the city's party central, absolutely full of bars and locals out for a good time. From the west end of the Inner Harbor, it's a short walk to Federal Hill, with another big concentration of bars.

Power Plant Live

Watch your dress code here—panicky about Baltimore's more dangerous side spilling into tourist areas, the staff rigidly enforce the general no baggy clothing rules, and even sports apparel can cause problems here and there. Women can wear whatever they want. Men, aim for something preppy/classic.

Sleep
Rates are understandably on the high side in the Inner Harbor, and the cheaper rooms at hotels lack harbor views. Prices also vary widely depending on the season and rooms availability. If you find yourself priced out, consider a spot in Fells Point, or even up the light rail in Midtown. While the Downtown hotels are very close, keep in mind that the area is less safe to walk back to at night, and decidedly less family-friendly.

Go next

 * Fort McHenry, in South Baltimore, is the city's most important attraction outside the Inner Harbor, and is not to be missed. The best way to go is to either take a taxi, be it by land or by sea, or for the more intrepid to take Bus #1.
 * Little Italy and Fell's Point are just east of the Inner Harbor, and no trip to Baltimore would be complete without a visit to walk the neighborhood's historic harbor and to get a nice dinner at a Maryland seafood house or Italian restaurant.
 * Lexington Market is just north of the Inner Harbor Downtown, and is the most efficient way to plunge yourself into the real culture of the city. Ignore people who tell you the market is unsafe (that's nonsense), and start browsing the food stalls and be sure to try some incredible crab cakes or soul food.
 * Charles Street and Mount Vernon are north of Downtown in Midtown, an area very often overlooked by visitors, but are great for at least a half day visit to see the Washington Monument, the excellent Walters Art Museum, to see the opera, and to spend an evening at a great restaurant or bar, mixing it up with the locals in one of the coolest parts of the city.

title: Baltimore/Inner Harbor


text:
Baltimore/Midtown

Midtown is a district of Baltimore.

Understand
You can visit Baltimore without visiting Midtown, but you will be missing out. Midtown is arguably Baltimore's most beautiful section of town, having housed the city's wealthy and fashionable starting centuries ago. The Mount Vernon neighborhood, especially Mount Vernon Square, is the principal destination for visitors, as it is the lovely setting for the city's Washington Monument, predating the larger obelisk in D.C., and for the Walters Art Museum.

Just north of Mount Vernon is what has become known as Baltimore's Station North Arts District, often known as Charles North, which is the hippest part of town. Great restaurants, great bars and clubs both sophisticated and offbeat, tons of local artists including those at the eccentric Maryland Institute College of the Arts, the prestigious Peabody School of Music, the Lyric Opera House, art galleries, and the beloved art-house film Charles Theatre. This area is also home to Penn Station and the light rail cuts right through it, so you don't have much of an excuse to skip a trip here!

Bolton Hill, to the northwest of Howard St and Martin Luther King Blvd, has far less as far as tourist sights go, but is an absolutely beautiful place for a stroll or drive—stately tall 19th century rowhouses and mansions, gilded statues, huge old churches, and so on. It sports a couple of nice restaurants as well, and a few houses (not open for visitors) of famous former residents such as F Scott Fitzgerald.

Just west of Mount Vernon, charming Seton Hill's eclectic mix of large and small row houses are centered on the beautiful Saint Mary's Park. Strolling through this quiet green space with its large trees and small fountain, you could quickly forget that you are just a few blocks from all the amenities Baltimore offers. The State Office Complex and Downtown Baltimore's towers are visible above the roofs of Seton Hill's historic homes, but are far enough to be quickly forgotten when you leave work behind. And every October the neighborhood puts on the Seton Hill French Fair and Flea market, bringing the community together for some fun and showcasing the neighborhood.

By car
It's easy enough to find the neighborhood by car—you can take Martin Luther King Blvd straight from Exit 53 off I-95N, or go straight up Charles St from Downtown. I-83, the Jones Falls Expressway, leads right into the district and has exits at North Ave and Maryland Ave/Charles St/St. Paul.

Parking is another matter, with often limited metered parking in the busy sections around Charles St, and two hour zone restrictions in residential areas. The zone restrictions are pretty poorly enforced, but the ticket prices can be high.

By train
Amtrak as well as the MARC commuter rail Penn Line from D.C. serve Penn Station, which is a fairly easy walk from virtually anywhere in the district.

By light rail
The light rail leads through Mount Vernon and Station North, stopping at Centre St for Mt Vernon Square and historic Seton Hill, Cultural Centre for the Opera House, Penn Station, and North Ave for the eccentric bars, clubs, and pizza places at the northern edge of the district.

By metro
The metro subway has a convenient stop at State Center (near the Cultural Centre light rail stop), but it's not terribly clear whether anyone uses the Baltimore metro, nor whether you should either.

By bus
Bus #11 has a remarkably useful route leading north on Charles St from Downtown and the Inner Harbor, and on to the Baltimore Museum of Art and Johns Hopkins' main campus in North Baltimore. On the way south back to the Inner Harbor, it follows Maryland Ave to Cathedral St, before heading east all the way to Fells Point and Canton.

The Charm City Circulator's purple route is a really useful loop for any visitors. It runs a loop from Penn Station through the district, Downtown, the Inner Harbor, and even on to Federal Hill. Just remember that it doesn't run that late!

Buy

Midtown a shopping district is not, unless you're looking for art supply stores, of which there are plenty, serving mainly the MICA students.

Connect
There are two very cool, funky little coffeehouses in the neighborhood, both with free WiFi:

Stay safe
The areas north of Penn Station can be legitimately rough, but the main roads, especially Charles St and North Ave, are well traveled and fine. If you have your car on the street anywhere in Midtown, make sure there is nothing lying in plain view, lest someone smash your window and take it.

Go next
While the obvious direction from here is back south through Downtown to the Inner Harbor, some creativity and preferably a car can make for some interesting jaunts farther afield.

If you are enjoying the slightly gritty, but very eccentric areas around North Ave, head a little further north and watch the grit factor soar! Also that way is Baltimore's Korean neighborhood, with some great little BBQ places and the odd karaoke bar, and a couple famous punk bars/venues.

Now you'll definitely need a car in this direction, but heading west will bring you to the Baltimore Zoo and the original location of "The Roost" for some fine fish fry.

title: Baltimore/Midtown


text:
Baltimore/North Baltimore

 * For the town of North Baltimore, Ohio see Van Buren

North Baltimore is a large section of the city sprawling north towards Towson, and is home to Johns Hopkins University's Homewood campus.

Understand
For visitors, chances are that all you will want to see is in two neighborhoods:

 * Greater Charles Village is the collection of small neighborhoods along and around Charles St north of the Jones Falls Expressway, including the Homewood Campus of Johns Hopkins University and the Baltimore Museum of Art. Charles St is lively, with lots of good dining options, bars, and other assorted shops and things to do.
 * Hampden is Baltimore quirkiness at its most extreme. It is a singularly eclectic neighborhood, with an odd mix of gentrification, eccentric long-time residents, the occasional drunk, and hipster/artist arrivals dubbed locally as "Hampsters." What, exactly, is that distinctively quirky Baltimore element? Too eccentric to define, it is a weird combination of assorted beehive hairdos, offensive John Waters flicks, arcane local comic books, Bawlmerese, calling people "hon," assorted strange 1950s nicknacks, ice cream soda fountains, extremely gaudy glasses, and other assorted traditions one would not find elsewhere. If you would like to peer a little further into Hampden culture, John Waters' Pecker is basically a personal tribute to the neighborhood, and don't worry, it's one of his least-offensive flicks. The main commercial strip is on 36th St, known locally as The Avenue, and you will find virtually everything of interest here.

By car

 * The Jones Falls Expressway (I-83; locally called the JFX) enters the area from the northwest.
 * N Charles St (Route 139) enters the area from the north.
 * W North Ave enters the area from the west.
 * Belaire Road (Route 1) to E North Ave enters the area from the east and northeast.
 * Calvert St (Route 2) enters the area from the south.

Honfest

 * The name comes from a shortening of "honey", used as a friendly way of saying "ma'am". (This widespread usage reportedly came from desegregation, when white Baltimoreans wanted to evade calling black men and women a more formal "sir" and "ma'am".) Today, Honfest is full of hons in full costume (or just their everyday hon look), and features two main events—the crowning of "Miss Hon", success in which depends on your look, and your participation in the second event—the Running of the Hons. If you want to be a hon for the day, fret not, you can get your makeup and beehive do right on site during the festivities.

Miracle on 34th Street

Connect
Baltimore all around has internet access in most places.

Go next

 * Towson and Cockeysville - Satellite cities of Baltimore on opposite sides of the Beltway, just north of Baltimore on route 45.

title: Baltimore/North Baltimore