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Ayr (Scotland)

Ayr is a town in Ayrshire on the coast of South West Scotland, with a population of 46,260 in 2020. Its chief attraction for visitors is the nearby village of Alloway, birthplace of Robert Burns. Ayr is also near Culzean Castle and the golf course at Turnberry. It was the county town until Ayrshire was divided into east, north and south council areas. Ayr now only hosts the South Ayrshire local government.

Understand
Ayrshire is mostly lowland and fertile, and Ayr grew up as the market town for the nearby farm villages, but it was also industrial from the 17th century with local deposits of coal. It had a defensible river crossing and harbour, one of several ports that flourished before the Clyde was made navigable up to Glasgow. A major industry was smuggling: there were many quiet beaches where goods "for export" could be run ashore on moonless nights. And there was also illicit trade with England and its colonies, before the 1707 Union ended the embargo against Scotland.

One of those farm villages three miles south was Alloway, now a suburb of Ayr, and on 25 Jan 1759 it was the birthplace of Robert Burns. His family lived in the same cramped farm cottage until he was seven, then moved to a series of other farms near Tarbolton and Mauchline, always on the verge of poverty. Robert began writing poetry, chasing the women and drinking, not necessarily in that order; he was on the verge of emigrating to the West Indies when his first poetry collection was published in 1786. He was prolific and famous even within his short lifetime, and is now revered as Scotland’s national poet.

You’re bound to know Auld Lang Syne, but if you don’t know Burns' other works, essential reading is Tam O’Shanter (and you’ll need a Lallans glossary to translate the dialect.) Tam is a poor useless sort of farmer, and one dark wet night he's riding home from Ayr market, drunk as usual, when he sees strange lights in the derelict old church of Alloway. Creeping closer, he beholds witches dancing in a satanic party, and there’s one very fit young witch clad only in a skimpy shirt - a "cutty sark". Tam’s ribald shout to her is the biggest mistake of his prattish life, and it may well be his last.

Ayr's main sight is thus the Burns Heritage Park at Alloway comprising a museum in the cottage where he was born, the Auld Kirk (that spooky derelict old church), the Burns Monument and Gardens, and the ancient bridge Brig o’Doon where Tam fled from the witches. You'll know you're there when you see lots of coaches in the parking lot: summer in Alloway can be very congested. There isn't a physical tourist office but What's On Ayrshire post local information

Get in
Ayr is on the main road and rail route between Glasgow and Stranraer. With your own car from Glasgow follow A77. From England take M6 then A75 to Dumfries, A76 to Cumnock, then A71 into Ayr.

By plane
Glasgow Airport, 6 miles west of central Glasgow on M8, has the best connections. It has flights from many UK and European cities, including the Hebridean islands. There are regular direct flights from Canada but other long-haul destinations usually involve changing planes in London or Amsterdam. There is a pre-bookable shuttle bus to GLA from Ayr, otherwise travel via central Glasgow.

is only 4 miles from Ayr, but only has Ryanair flights to Med holiday destinations such as Barcelona and Tenerife, nothing within the UK. The Ayr-Glasgow trains call here, as does the X77 bus, see below. Or take a taxi, or you could even walk.

By train
Trains run from Glasgow Central four times an hour, but it feels like only two as slow trains departs 5 min after the faster trains. The latter take an hour to Ayr via Paisley Gilmour Street, Glengarnock (for Kilbirnie), Kilwinning, Irvine, Troon, Prestwick Airport and town, and Newton-on-Ayr. Change at Kilwinning for Ardrossan, West Kilbride and Largs. The last train leaves Glasgow around 11:30PM.

Two or three trains a day run from Kilmarnock via Troon, and continue from Ayr to Girvan.

Five trains a day run from Stranraer, connecting with the ferries at Cairnryan, and taking 90 min via Girvan.

From London, Birmingham and Manchester it's usually quickest to take a fast train via Carlisle to Glasgow Central then change. Another route is to change at Carlisle for the train towards Glasgow via Dumfries - get off at Auchinleck south of Kilmarnock and take Bus 42 to Ayr, described below.

is central by the main square. There is a staffed ticket office and machines, a cafe, waiting room and toilets. There is level access to Platforms 1, 2 and 3. Platform 4 (towards Stranraer) is reached by steps over the footbridge, or step-free from the public road other side of the tracks. Plusbus is available at this station.

Newton-on-Ayr is a platform halt one mile north. You might use it for the north edge of town, or even the south edge of Prestwick town.

By bus
Stagecoach West Scotland is the main operator. Bus X77 runs from Glasgow Buchanan station to Ayr every 30 min, taking 65 min via Prestwick, with the last departing at 23:00. Bus 4 also runs every 30 min but takes two hours via Kilmarnock and Prestwick, so only use it for local journeys.

Citylink / Ulsterbus 923 runs three times a day from Belfast via the Stena ferry to Cairnryan then Glasgow. It calls at Ayr for pre-booked passengers only.

Bus 14 runs every 45 min from Irvine via Troon and Prestwick. From Ardrossan change at Irvine.

Bus 42 runs hourly from Muirkirk via Cumnock, Auchinleck (for trains to Carlisle and Dumfries), Drongan and Coylton to Ayr.

Buses 58 and 60 run every 30 min from Girvan via Maybole and Alloway to Ayr. The 358 runs twice from Stranraer via Cairnryan ferry terminal and Girvan.

is central, half a mile northwest of the railway station.

By boat
Ayr is not a ferry port, but if your sailing times allow, it’s a pleasanter place to stop over than Ardrossan (for Arran) or Stranraer (for Belfast).

The nearest marina for small leisure craft is Troon.

Get around
Bus 57 runs hourly to Alloway, taking 10 min. Bus 60 towards Girvan runs hourly past the driveway to Culzean Castle; the 58 takes a different route.

Taxi operators include Ayr Citadel (+44 1292 402204), Ayr Premier Taxis (+44 1292 404040), A to B (+44 1292 404707) and Ayr Cabs (+44 1292 787878).

The area is lowland and well-suited to cycling.

See

 * is the 15th-century bell tower of the original parish church and choir school, founded in the 12th century but demolished by Cromwell in 1654 to make way for a fortress. Only the tower was spared. A block north by the river bank is the main surviving stretch of fortress walls.
 * Auld Brig across the river was originally a 13th century wooden structure, rebuilt with stone in the 16th. It's a narrow footbridge, mocked in Burns' poem Brigs o' Ayr as too narrow for a pair of wheelbarrows to pass. The bridge retorts that it will still be standing when the New Brig of 1788 has vanished, and so it proved — the present New Bridge is Victorian.
 * Burns Monument, Brig o'Doon and Alloway Old Kirk by the cottage are free to view.
 * Greenan Castle is the remains of a 16th century tower house teetering on the cliffs west of Belle Isle.
 * Burns Monument, Brig o'Doon and Alloway Old Kirk by the cottage are free to view.
 * Greenan Castle is the remains of a 16th century tower house teetering on the cliffs west of Belle Isle.
 * Greenan Castle is the remains of a 16th century tower house teetering on the cliffs west of Belle Isle.
 * Greenan Castle is the remains of a 16th century tower house teetering on the cliffs west of Belle Isle.
 * Baird Institute in Cumnock village centre is a gallery and museum open Th 12:30-4PM, 5-7:30PM, F Sa 10:30-noon, 1-3:30PM.
 * Baltersan Castle half a mile northwest of Crossraguel Abbey is the ruin of a tower house built in 1584 and abandoned circa 1750. In 2020 it was for sale.
 * is a scenic stump on a rocky headland. It was built 15th and 16th centuries, and abandoned in the 17th. This was where the Earl of Cassilis tortured the landowner of Crossraguel, by roasting and other culinary techniques. And it worked, he gained the land and never suffered retribution; the cooked man was not eaten but could never walk again. See also the small harbour at the base of the cliffs.
 * on the A719 south of Ayr (between Dunure and Croy Brae) is an optical illusion: a car going "uphill" can glide in neutral, since it's actually going downhill. However these days most motorists won't notice the effect.
 * was built on an islet in the loch in the 13th century. It was besieged and re-captured a few times and in the 16th century King James V had it demolished to prevent use by rebels. The loch water level was raised in the 1930s for a hydro-electric scheme and reservoir, so the castle ruin was moved stone by stone from the islet to the roadside, the Abu Simbel of Ayrshire.
 * Baltersan Castle half a mile northwest of Crossraguel Abbey is the ruin of a tower house built in 1584 and abandoned circa 1750. In 2020 it was for sale.
 * is a scenic stump on a rocky headland. It was built 15th and 16th centuries, and abandoned in the 17th. This was where the Earl of Cassilis tortured the landowner of Crossraguel, by roasting and other culinary techniques. And it worked, he gained the land and never suffered retribution; the cooked man was not eaten but could never walk again. See also the small harbour at the base of the cliffs.
 * on the A719 south of Ayr (between Dunure and Croy Brae) is an optical illusion: a car going "uphill" can glide in neutral, since it's actually going downhill. However these days most motorists won't notice the effect.
 * was built on an islet in the loch in the 13th century. It was besieged and re-captured a few times and in the 16th century King James V had it demolished to prevent use by rebels. The loch water level was raised in the 1930s for a hydro-electric scheme and reservoir, so the castle ruin was moved stone by stone from the islet to the roadside, the Abu Simbel of Ayrshire.
 * was built on an islet in the loch in the 13th century. It was besieged and re-captured a few times and in the 16th century King James V had it demolished to prevent use by rebels. The loch water level was raised in the 1930s for a hydro-electric scheme and reservoir, so the castle ruin was moved stone by stone from the islet to the roadside, the Abu Simbel of Ayrshire.

Golf
is the town course south side on Doonfoot Rd. White tees 6446 yards par 71, with the smaller Seafield at 5429 yards par 67.
 * Troon, 7 mi north has the
 * In Turnberry, 15 mi miles south of Ayr and 6 mi north of Girvan, is located on the Ayrshire coast.

Recreational and Theatre

Culture, History and Outdoors

 * Scottish Dark Sky Observatory north of Loch Doon suffered a fire in 2021. Rebuilding is under way but the re-opening date is not yet known.
 * Scottish Dark Sky Observatory north of Loch Doon suffered a fire in 2021. Rebuilding is under way but the re-opening date is not yet known.

Events

 * STREETrave is a beach music festival held around the Pavilion on the Promenade, with the next on 5 May 2024.
 * Boswell Book Festival specialises in biography and memoir. The next is at Dumfries House on 10-12 May 2024.
 * Boswell Book Festival specialises in biography and memoir. The next is at Dumfries House on 10-12 May 2024.

Eat

 * Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face, Great chieftain o' the puddin-race!
 * - Burns' toast to the haggis

 * Town centre west side of the railway station has The Growler (below), Stravaig (below), Tempura Ayr, Drunken Coo, Mr Basrai's, Tudor Kitchen, Vito's and Meridian.
 * Nanny Mary's Diner at 42 Smith St by the station serves burgers, ice-cream and milk shakes. It's open M W Th 9AM-10PM, Tu 9AM-2PM, F Sa 9AM-11PM, Su 10AM-10PM.
 * New Bridge St into Sandgate and Fort St has New City Chinese, The Edison, Tree House, Cecchini's, Jinja and Rupee Room.
 * @Home Thai at 95 New Road is open daily noon-10PM.
 * Ayr India is still at its beach location at the foot of Seafield Rd, but now also has a more central outlet on Alloway Place, open daily noon-11PM.
 * Splurge at Enterkine House Hotel ten miles east, see Sleep.
 * New Bridge St into Sandgate and Fort St has New City Chinese, The Edison, Tree House, Cecchini's, Jinja and Rupee Room.
 * @Home Thai at 95 New Road is open daily noon-10PM.
 * Ayr India is still at its beach location at the foot of Seafield Rd, but now also has a more central outlet on Alloway Place, open daily noon-11PM.
 * Splurge at Enterkine House Hotel ten miles east, see Sleep.

Drink

 * Inspiring bold John Barleycorn! What dangers thou canst make us scorn!
 * Wi' tippenny, we fear nae evil; Wi' usquabae, we'll face the devil!
 * - Tam o'Shanter is well wasted as he leaves the pub to ride home

 * Town centre has Tam O’Shanter (below), Rabbie's, Droothy Neebors, The Twa Dugs, Market Inn, Crumbs & Cocktails, Smith's, West Kirk (below), Billy Bridges, Central Bar, Smugglers and The Fort.
 * The Nightclub is Vinyl.
 * Brewery: Ayr Brewing Company produce a range of ales within Glenpark Hotel on Racecourse Rd, no tours.
 * Distillery: see Kilmarnock for Lochlea whisky distillery.
 * Brewery: Ayr Brewing Company produce a range of ales within Glenpark Hotel on Racecourse Rd, no tours.
 * Distillery: see Kilmarnock for Lochlea whisky distillery.

Connect
As of July 2022, Ayr and its approach roads have 4G with O2 and Vodafone, and 5G with EE and Three.

Go next

 * Girvan has Turnberry golf course and hotel, and boat trips to Ailsa Craig.
 * If you’re not sated with Burns, Dumfries is where he spent his last years.
 * Ferries sail to Arran from Ardrossan, to  Great Cumbrae from Largs, and to  Bute from Wemyss Bay.
 * South and east of Glasgow is industrial. The stand-out is New Lanark Industrial Village, a bold 18th-century social venture.
 * Belfast is a fascinating city: take the direct bus from Ayr.

title: Ayr (Scotland)


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Ayrshire

Ayrshire is a region in the southwest of Scotland. It's divided administratively into South, East and North Ayrshire; but for visitors the practical divisions are the coast, the islands, and the inland areas.

Towns

 * is the historic county town. The main attraction is the birthplace of Robert Burns in Alloway four miles south.

 * Clyde coast: Ayrshire is on the coast of the broad Firth of Clyde. In the 19th century the coastal towns developed into seaside resorts, the "Glasgow Riviera", but declined again once people could reach the Med. From north to south these are:

 * is where Viking power in Scotland was broken: see the Vikingar exhibition. Largs is the ferry port for Great Cumbrae.
 * is a small town with a nuclear power plant looming over it.
 * along with Saltcoats and Stevenston has beaches, but the prime reason to come is for the ferry to Arran.
 * once employed Burns, and there's a maritime museum, but the developers haven't left much of the old town.
 * is home to the Royal Troon Golf Club, which often hosts the Open.
 * has a large airport, with few passenger flights nowadays. The town has plenty of golf.
 * Ayr the county town is next south, then a long rural stretch, with Culzean Castle and Turnberry golf course.

 * is the furthest out, so it's kept more of its character as a fishing port.

 * The islands out in the Firth are:

 * , with its ferry port at Brodick, is the most attractive part of the entire county.
 * a short boat-ride from Arran is a Buddhist monastery.

 * Great Cumbrae: its only town is and a day-trip will be plenty.
 * Little Cumbrae a mile south is private property and has no ferry service.
 * Bute, the next island north, is in Argyll and Bute not Ayrshire.

 * Inland Ayrshire is low-lying farmland, with a series of small towns:

 * has an old church, ruined castle and freshwater loch.
 * first published the poems of Burns, and has Ayrshire family archives.
 * has a ruined abbey and castle.

Other destinations

 * , the lonely pyramid away to the south, is an uninhabited wildlife reserve. Boat trips sail from Girvan.

Understand
Ayrshire occupies a low fertile crescent of land bordering the Firth of Clyde. There are traces of human habitation going back 5000 years, but in such an intensively cultivated area, prehistoric sites on the mainland have been lost by being ploughed over or re-used as building stone - but many remain on Arran, with the best on Machrie Moor. The Romans stayed only briefly, then retreated to Hadrian's Wall, leaving the place to the people of Strathclyde, who spoke a P-Celtic language similar to Old Welsh. Around the 7th century they were supplanted by Dalradia, a kingdom spanning the channel between Northern Ireland and southwest Scotland, and bringing in the Q-Celtic forerunner to Scottish Gaelic. The Vikings also began their depradations in that era but were ousted in medieval times, with their final defeat coming at Largs in 1263. The area was then firmly part of the Kingdom of Scotland.

Ayrshire adopted modern farming methods and began to industrialise from the 17th century. Robert Burns was one who farmed hereabouts, to little profit, though he was famous for his poetry even in his short lifetime. Coal was mined in the northeast of the county in the 18th century, so this part became urbanised, and Kilmarnock outgrew Ayr. When the railways arrived fom the 1840s, the coast towns morphed into beach resorts for the city of Glasgow, and remain so today. The county boundaries and governance were regularised in 1889, lasting until a reorganisation of 1975 which made Arran and Cumbrae part of this area. Since 1996 the county has been divided into three: East Ayrshire includes Kilmarnock and Cumnock, South Ayrshire includes Troon, Ayr and Girvan, and North Ayrshre includes Irvine, Largs and Arran. These boundaries have little relevance to most travellers so it's convenient to describe the historic county as a single unit.

By plane
is some 30 miles north of the county but usually the best option, because of its wide choice of UK and European destinations. Take the airport bus to Glasgow Buchanan bus station then train or bus into Ayrshire as outlined below.

Prestwick Airport is central in Ayrshire and is a major centre for aviation services, air cargo and military flights, but nowadays has few passenger flights. Ryanair is the only commercial carrier, flying to 16 destinations around the Med, Canaries and Poland. So Prestwick sends Glasgow folk off on their holidays but you'd only use it to get in if you were based near one of those destinations, such as Barcelona. PIK has its own railway station and air passengers are eligible for half-price fares on their connecting rail journeys - see Prestwick for how this works.

If you're flying in and renting a car to tour around, then consider also Edinburgh and Manchester  airports.

By train

 * Wikivoyage has a guide to Rail travel in Great Britain.

Railways in Ayrshire radiate from Glasgow Central station. Trains run every 30 min through Kilwinning where the line divides: one branch curls back up the coast via Ardrossan and West Kilbride to Largs, while the other branch continues south to Irvine, Troon, Prestwick airport and town, and Ayr. Change at Ayr to continue south to Girvan and Stranraer.

The other line from Glasgow Central runs to Kilmarnock (which also has trains to Ayr and Stranraer) then south through scenic Nithsdale to Dumfries and Carlisle. You can get here from England this way but it's usually quicker to take a fast train from London Euston via Carlisle to Glasgow Central then travel out again to Ayrshire.

By bus
All the main towns have an express bus service at least hourly from Glasgow Buchanan station. The main routes are X34 / 44 to Irvine, X36 to Ardrossan, X76 to Kilmarnock and X77 to Prestwick and Ayr.

Bus 585 connects the coast every 30-60 mins between Ayr, Prestwick town and airport, Troon, Irvine, Ardrossan, Largs and Greenock.

By boat
Ferries to Ireland no longer sail from Ayrshire, you need to go to Cairnryan near Stranraer for the car ferries to Belfast and Larne. A twice-daily bus from Glasgow stops in Ayr on its way to Cairnryan and Belfast.

Ferries from Ardrossan sail to Brodick on the Isle of Arran. You can cross that island by road for the ferry from Lochranza to Claonaig, near Tarbert in Kintyre.

Just north of Ayrshire, frequent ferries sail from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute. You can similarly cross Bute and take a ferry to the Cowal peninsula, then a further ferry onward to Tarbert.

There's also a ferry from Largs to the Isle of Great Cumbrae, but there's no other transport from that island so you have to come back the same way.

Get around
The main transport routes within Ayrshire are described above in "Get in". Beyond that, it's variable, see individual towns for local buses.

There's a good road network across the county.

See

 * The Isle of Arran is the most attractive part of the entire county, because of the way pastoral lowland country rubs against stark highland scenery: the glacial valley of Glen Rosa, the screes of Goat Fell, and the lonely "String" and "Ross" roads. Ferries sail from Ardrossan to Brodick, which has a castle two miles north.
 * Alloway, a village that's become a suburb of Ayr, was the birthplace of the poet Robert Burns. You can visit the thatched cottage where he was born, the church and bridge (Brig O'Doon) featured in his ballad Tam O'Shanter, and a museum celebrating his works.
 * Culzean Castle, open April-Oct, is a magnificent 18th-century mansion designed by Robert Adam, set in an extensive park 12 miles south of Ayr.
 * Other castles: every few miles along the coast you'll find the scrappy ruins of a medieval castle - not much to see inside (even if it's safe to enter - or even possible to distinguish what was once inside or out), you come for the coastal walk and the sea views. Those that are substantial mansions are Culzean (as above), Brodick on Arran, and wacky Kelburn near Largs. Some have been converted to luxury accommodation, such as Law Castle at West Kilbride, and Glenapp south of Girvan.
 * Dolphins, porpoises, seals and sea-birds: always be on the look-out for these around the coasts and ferry routes, but the best spot is the nature reserve of Ailsa Craig, reached by boat trip from Girvan.
 * Kirkoswald towards Girvan features the ruins of Turnberry Castle, the likely birthplace of Robert the Bruce.
 * Scotland's Gardens opens up private gardens once a year in summer, with all proceeds going to charity. There are ten participating gardens in Ayrshire, dates staggered so there's one open most weekends.

Do

 * Golf: there are dozens of courses, constructed on the sandy machair coastal terrain, see individual town listings. The three standouts are Trump Turnberry north of Girvan, Royal Troon, and the Old Course at Prestwick. There's even a combi-package to stay for a weekend at Turnberry and play all three, a steal at £2000 a couple.
 * Cycling: the coast route from Ayr to Girvan has pleasant views, but on the return route the stiff breeze should be behind you.
 * Visit a distillery: the main Isle of Arran malt whisky distillery is now at Lagg in the south of the island, though the original facility at Lochranza remains open.
 * Visit a nuclear power station at Hunterston, West Kilbride - you need to book at least 3 weeks in advance.
 * Football: there are pro soccer teams at Kilmarnock and Ayr. Rugby union hereabouts is amateur.
 * River Ayr Way is a hiking trail of 36 miles / 65 km. It's usually done in three sections: from the source of the river at Glenbuck to Sorn, Sorn to Stair, and then to the estuary at Ayr.

Events

 * The Scottish Grand National is held on Ayr racecourse in April. This course has flat-racing in summer and National Hunt in winter.
 * Ayr County Show is in May.
 * Ardrossan Highland Games are held in June.
 * The Viking Festival is held in Largs in the first week of September.
 * Ayr Festival of Flight is in September.

Eat

 * All the towns have cheap and cheerful places: pizza, kebab, Chinese, tandoori, plus industrial quantities of fish & chips. Don't save it for Burns Night to try haggis, go to any chippy and order.
 * The best dining is out of town. Some places that have impressed in the mid-range are Wildings in Maidens near Girvan, Sorn Inn near Mauchine above Ayr, The Vine in Prestwick, The Catch at Fins in Fairlie midway between Largs and West Kilbride, and Stags Pavilion at Lochranza on Arran. Splurge at Enterkine House near Ayr or at Trump Turnberry north of Girvan.

Drink
All the towns and many villages have pubs. They're quite traditional, serving a local clientele, and there's no outstanding place worth travelling any distance to sup at. JD Wetherspoon are the ubiquitous national chain, open from 8:00 for breakfast, and reliably clean and well-run.

There are a few nightclubs in the larger towns, but Ayrshire doesn't really do nightlife: carousers and stop-outs head into Glasgow.

Stay safe
Standard advice applies about dressing for a change in the weather, not leaving valuables on display in your car, and steer clear of the occasional Friday night drunk.

Go next

 * You're likely to travel via Glasgow, but don't treat it as just a transport hub. It's a magnificent buzzing city, lots to see, do and eat, and it deserves a stay of several days.
 * To the south, Stranraer is an eyesore but the Mull of Galloway beyond is attractive. Travel via Cairnryan near Stranraer to reach Belfast.
 * Dumfries is a pleasant market town, Burns' later home, and a good base for exploring this rolling lowland region.
 * The ferries to Arran create a short-cut to Tarbert on the Kintyre peninsula. Several Hebridean islands can be reached from Tarbert, and more from Oban further north.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Ayrshire


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Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya (Thai: อยุธยา), full name Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya (พระนครศรีอยุธยา), is an ancient capital and modern city in the Central Plains of Thailand, north of Bangkok. Its proximity to Bangkok makes this city of 51,000 people (2020) a popular day-trip destination for travellers from that city.

Understand
Founded around 1350, Ayutthaya became the second capital of Siam after Sukhothai. It was named after the city of Ayodhya in India, where legend has it Rama, one of the avatars of the Hindu god Vishnu, had his capital city, and whose rule is considered by Hindus to be the epitome of good governance and moral society. Throughout the centuries, an ideal location between China, India, and the Malay Archipelago made Ayutthaya the trading capital of Asia and even the world. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city in the world with a total of 1 million inhabitants. Many international merchants set sail for Ayutthaya and were amazed by its beauty and riches. Dutch and French maps of the city show grandeur with gold-laden palaces, large ceremonies, and a visiting flotilla of trading vessels from all over the world. This era ended when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and almost completely burnt the city to the ground.

Today, only a few remains give a glimpse of the impressive city it must have been. Its remains are characterized by the prang (reliquary towers) and large monasteries. Most of the remains are temples and palaces, as those were the only buildings made of stone at that time. The cultural value of Ayutthaya's ruins was officially recognized in 1991, when the historic city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its popularity among domestic tourists has exploded since 2018 due to the overwhelming popularity of the Thai historical drama Love Destiny, which was set in 17th-century Ayutthaya.

Orientation
Ayutthaya is an island at the confluence of three rivers: the Chao Phraya river, the Lopburi River, and the Pa Sak River. As the train station is on the east bank off the island, most visitors will need to cross the river by ferry boat. Navigating your way around the island is not particularly hard: U Thong Rd is a ring road that circles the island completely. Most temple ruins can be found at the northwest corner of the island, while accommodation and night life is clustered around the northeast. As non-Siamese were not allowed to live inside the city walls, the remains of foreign communities can be found off of the island.

By car
From Bangkok, one can get to Ayutthaya by various routes:

 * Take Hwy 1 (Phahon Yothin) via Pratu Nam Phra In and turn onto Hwy 32, then, turn left to Hwy 309 to Ayutthaya.
 * Take Hwy 304 (Chaeng Watthana) or Hwy 302 (Ngam Wong Wan), turn right onto Hwy 306 (Tiwanon), cross Nonthaburi or Nuanchawi Bridge to Pathum Thani, continue on Hwy 3111 (Pathum Thani–Sam Khok–Sena) and turn right at Sena onto Hwy 3263 to Ayutthaya.
 * Take Hwy 306 (Bangkok–Nonthaburi–Pathum Thani), at Pathum Thani Bridge intersection, turn onto Hwy 347 and 3309 via Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre, Bang Pa-In, to Ayutthaya.
 * Take Expy 9 (Si Rat Expressway) via Nonthaburi–Pathum Thani and down to Hwy 1 to Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre, turn left onto Hwy 3469 towards Bang Pa-In and turn right at Worachet intersection to Ayutthaya.

One can also contact a taxi company for pick up at either Bangkok airport. For example: Car Service, phone: +66 2 8195390, email: raksacharoen@hotmail.com. Advance booking possible. ~1,200 baht one-way.

By train
The cheapest and most scenic way of reaching Ayutthaya is by train. These run every hour or so from Bangkok via Don Muang to Ayutthaya, taking 80 min to 2 hours. Fares are 15 baht for third-class, ordinary train, no air-con, no reserved seat; 20 baht for third-class, "rapid" train, no air-con, no reserved seat; 65 baht for ordinary train, no air-con, reserved seat, 245 baht for "rapid train", air-con, reserved seat, and 345 baht for special express train, with air-con, a meal, reserved seat. In rush hour the trains are horribly overcrowded, but the rush is inward to Bangkok - daytrippers coming outward will dodge this. See Thai Railways website for timetable and fares.

Trains from Bangkok through Ayutthaya continue east to Ubon Ratchathani (7 a day, 7 hr), north to Lop Buri, Phitsanulok (for Sukhothai), Lamphun and Chiang Mai (5 a day, 10 hr), and northeast to Nong Kai and Tha Naleng for Vientiane in Laos (3 or 4 a day, 8 hr). There are sleepers on all these routes.

The is east bank of the river, not on the town island. There is a bridge with a walkway just to the south. Alternatively take a short ferry ride - walk across the main road and down the small street straight ahead. Ferries run every few minutes and cost 5 baht. A tuk-tuk from the station should cost no more than 100 baht for two people.

From Northern Bus Terminal
Buses now operate every 20 minutes or so from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal directly to Ayutthaya. First-class air-con buses charge 50 baht. This trip is scheduled to be around an hour and a half, but allow at least two hours for the trip since the buses stop rather frequently and there are often jams on the roads out of/into Bangkok. For more details, call Tel. +66 2 9362852-66 or see BKS or Ayutthaya Bus Terminal, Tel. +66 35 335304.

From Southern Bus Terminal
There are minibuses to Rangsit, in the north of Bangkok, costing 50 baht. In Rangsit they stop at a highway junction, where you can transfer directly onto another minibus going to Ayatthaya, costing 40 baht as of Dec 2015. Total travel time 1½-2 hours.

From Kanchanaburi
From Kanchanaburi, take a local bus leaves roughly every 2 hours from the main bus station to Suphanburi taking 2 hours for 60 baht (Feb 2024), then another local minibus to Ayutthaya for 100 baht (1.5 hours). A taxi from Kanchanaburi costs 2,000-2,500 baht (2 hours).

There is also a central bus station east of town serving northern destinations. It can be reached by songthaew. Ask around to find the appropriate stop.

Leaving
In Ayutthaya, the central BKS bus station is on the south side of Naresuan Rd next to the Chao Phrom Market. Songthaews to Bang Pa-In also leave from here. Some 1st-class buses to Bangkok, however, leave from the north side of the road some 500 m to the west, on the other side of the khlong (canal); the queue for air-con buses is easy to spot.

By mini-bus
Convenient mini-bus service (can get stuck in traffic, but makes no stops like regular buses) operates in front of the Northern Bus Terminal, on the other side of the road.

The cost is 70 baht (Feb 2020) and takes 1-1.5 hr. Mini-buses don't have much space for big bags, and you must wait until the bus is fully filled.

Mini-buses from Kanchanaburi can be arranged by guest houses or any tour operators for around 350 baht.

By boat
Cruise boats run up the river from Bangkok, often stopping at Ko Kret and Bang Pa-In along the way. You'll need to book in advance as there are no scheduled services, just trips for tourists. It's a fairly lengthy trip (at least one whole day) and some of the larger boats offer (pricey) overnight tours.

Travelling by boat to Ayutthaya is popular among foreigners as it reveals the beauty and lifestyle of the people on both sides of the Chao Phraya River, and also recalls life at the time of the Ayutthaya Kingdom when the Chao Phraya River served as the highway for trade with foreign countries.

By bicycle
Cycling around the ruins is the most enjoyable way to spend the day. The archaeological park is easily reachable and manageable on bike even if you aren't very fit. The paths are paved and the distances between temples are short. You can rent a bicycle for around 40 baht/day. The bicycles are not necessarily well maintained, so be sure that they work properly (wheels are firm and inflated, seats adjusted to your height and well attached, handlebars don't slip); good shops will give you a bike lock as well. There is a good bike shop directly opposite the train station.

Free area maps are available from hotels.

The park opens at 07:30. It is recommended that you begin your tour early, before the tour groups arrive from Bangkok. Take plenty of water with you.

 * Soi 2 (where the majority of tourist hotels and restaurants are found) have numerous bike rental facilities. They are all next to each other so it will be easy to shop around and find the one with the best bike for you.
 * Tour With Thai (TWT) (before Tony's Guest House [not far from mini-bus stop at Soi 2]) has bicycles big and small size and seat for small child for rent. If you are short of time, you can hire a motorbike here.

By tuk-tuk
Alternatively, you can get around town by tuk-tuk (motorized 3-wheeler). Ayutthaya's tuk-tuks are larger than the Bangkok variety and you can easily squeeze six people in on facing benches. Only "official" tuk-tuk drivers or tourist "helpers" can pick up passengers from the train station. You can verify their status by looking for their photos/name on a "Tourist Officials" board displayed at the south end of the platform. These people are required to charge/work for fixed rates, usually quoting 300 baht/hr, but this can usually be bargained down to a slightly lower price (e.g., 1,000 baht/4 hr).

You can also flag down tuk-tuks from the street and try to hire them. Most drivers carry with them a stack of postcards featuring the famous sites of the city to ease communications. They also are used to the standard temple-hopping circuit. If you have a map you can point out any of the destinations that you wish to see and they'll often quote a trip price and will wait for you at each stop. 200 baht/hr seems to be the starting point for tourist tuk-tuks picking up backpackers away from the station, although it may be possible to negotiate a lower price.

If entering the city by mini-bus, there is a possibility your driver will drop you off at a tuk-tuk who offers to take you around the wats from 2,000 baht. The driver may have a book filled with positive testimonials in a range of different languages from tourists who were his past passengers. Don't let these positive comments convince you otherwise, simply say "no, thanks" and move on to find another tuk-tuk driver with whom you can negotiate a fair rate.

From Ayutthaya, mini-buses can be taken from the railway station into the city. Hiring a mini- bus within Ayutthaya costs between 400-500 baht/day. For travelling between Ayutthaya and Bang Pa-in, mini-buses regularly leave Chao Prom Market, Chao Prom Rd starting from 06:00.

By motorbike driver
If you are alone, using a motorbike driver can cost less than a tuk-tuk (though with less luggage carrying capability). For example, to tour the further out ruins you will manage a lower cost per hour from a motorbike driver than tuk-tuk driver. They are easy to recognise - orange hi-vis jackets with a large one or two digit number on them. They can often be found hanging around on Pridi Banomyong Road (unlikely to be hanging round the station area).

By boat
Boat trips to enjoy the beautiful scenery and Thai lifestyle along the Chao Phraya River, the Pa Sak River and around the town island of Ayutthaya are available. A longtail boat can be chartered at the pier in front of Chanthara Kasem National Museum, Pom Phet Pier, and Wat Phananchoeng Pier. The fare depends on the route and duration. Rice barges are also available to groups. They offer a relaxed way to see Ayutthaya.

See
Ayutthaya is north of Bangkok and boasts numerous magnificent ruins. The ruins indicate that Ayutthaya was one of Southeast Asia's (and probably the world's) most prosperous cities in the 17th century. Ayutthaya Historical Park, a vast stretch of historical sites in the heart of Ayutthaya city, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since December 1991.

There were three palaces in Ayutthaya: Grand Palace, Chantharakasem Palace (the Front Palace), and Wang Lang (the Rear Palace). In addition, there were many other palaces and buildings for royal visits outside Ayutthaya, such as the palace at Bang Pa-In and Nakhon Luang Building at Nakhon Luang.

You can buy a single ticket covering entry into Ayutthaya Historical Park monuments for 220 baht. It's a Fine Arts Department-issued ticket and can be purchased from any of the monuments covered that charge for entry (i.e., you buy a single ticket for entry to that monument (typically 50 baht) or you can buy the multiple site ticket). However, it can get complex as not all sites charge anyway, e.g., Wat Plub Pla Chai is free uncontrolled entry) and not all sites are Fine Arts Department sites and they don't recognise the ticket e.g. Wat Thammikarat which is 20 baht.

If staying in the city start early when the parks open and see the main sites before the tour buses arrive from Bangkok. Or start later but avoid the sites the Bangkok day tours visit and return to those sites later when the tour buses have departed. There are plenty of sites worth visiting that the tour buses skip (as they have less time due to the drive from & to Bangkok).

It seems there is an ongoing scam, not against tourists, but against the government. Ladies selling tickets take the money from you and allow you to enter, but will not give you a ticket (and probably put the money in their own pockets). If you want your money to go for temple renovation and conservation instead of going into private pockets, insist on a ticket.

On the island
The temples with entry charges are usually in ruins, so there is no dress code, although visitors are still requested to refrain from blatant stupidity like clambering up the Buddha statues. Working temples tend to charge no fees and there are often no officials to check that a dress is appropriate (though it is advised to follow these customs to show respect for sacred places).

Off the island
Much of Ayutthaya's history revolves around trade with other nations, but these nations were not allowed to set up camp inside the city walls. Thus, surrounding Ayutthaya's waters are plenty of remains from the countries that once set sail here, such as the settlements of Japan, the Netherlands and Portugal, as well as the interesting Thai-Chinese temple of Wat Phanan Choeng.

Do

 * Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre Fair (งานประจำปีศูนย์ศิลปาชีพบางไทร) At the end of January. Held annually toward the end of January at Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre, the fair features displays and contests of the arts and crafts products, sales of local products and cultural performances.
 * Songkran Festival (งานเทศกาลสงกรานต์) April 13. Held annually on 13 April in front of Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit, Amphoe Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, it features a traditional procession, Thoet Thoeng drums procession, Song Nam Phra ceremony of the miniature of Phra Mongkhon Bophit image, and Nang Songkran beauty contest.
 * Wai Khru Bucha Tao Ceremony (พิธีไหว้ครูบูชาเตา) Around April – May. A wai khru ceremony held by blacksmiths and knife-makers of Aranyik knives at Ban Ton Pho, Ban Phai Nong and Ban Salai, Tambon Tha Chang, Nakhon Luang District to pay tribute to their masters and forge spirits. The ceremony is usually held on an early Thursday morning which may be the 7th, 9th, etc. day of the waxing moon of the 5th lunar month (around April – May) in order to express gratitude to their masters, sweep away possible accidents during their works as well as for their own auspiciousness and prosperity. After chanting for a congregation of angels and saluting the Triple Gem, the master of the ceremony will chant for a congregation of gods which include Siva, Vishnu, Brahma, Vishnukarma, Matuli, Vaya, Gangga, 8 ascetics, as well as Thai, Lao, Mon, and Chinese masters who have imparted them with the ironwork skills, for them to receive their offerings and bless all participants. All tools and equipment will be gilded and lustral water made to sprinkle on the tools and participants.
 * Bang Sai Loi Krathong and Traditional Long Boat Races (งานลอยกระทงตามประทีปและแข่งเรือยาวประเพณีศูนย์ศิลปาชีพบางไทร) November. It is an annual festival held toward the end of November at the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre, Amphoe Bang Sai. Activities include Nang Nopphamat beauty contest, contests of processions, Krathongs, and hanging lanterns, folk entertainment, traditional and international long boat races, and sales of the Centre’s products.
 * Ayutthaya World Heritage Fair (งานแสดงแสงเสียงอยุธยามรดกโลก) December. To commemorate the occasion of the Ayutthaya Historical Park being declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO on 13 December 1991, a celebration is held annually for 1 week during the same period of the year. The Fair features local ways of life, handicrafts, Thai traditions and culture as well as the light and sound presentation on the history of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya.
 * Ayutthaya Maha Mongkhon (อยุธยามหามงคล – ไหว้พระเก้าวัด) Buddhist Lent Festival. Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Provincial Administration in collaboration with the Tourism Business Association and TAT Central Region Office: Region 6, organise the Ayutthaya Maha Mongkhon programme for participants to visit nine temples in the province during the Buddhist Lent Festival.
 * Ayutthaya World Heritage Fair (งานแสดงแสงเสียงอยุธยามรดกโลก) December. To commemorate the occasion of the Ayutthaya Historical Park being declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO on 13 December 1991, a celebration is held annually for 1 week during the same period of the year. The Fair features local ways of life, handicrafts, Thai traditions and culture as well as the light and sound presentation on the history of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya.
 * Ayutthaya Maha Mongkhon (อยุธยามหามงคล – ไหว้พระเก้าวัด) Buddhist Lent Festival. Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Provincial Administration in collaboration with the Tourism Business Association and TAT Central Region Office: Region 6, organise the Ayutthaya Maha Mongkhon programme for participants to visit nine temples in the province during the Buddhist Lent Festival.

Eat
Ayutthaya is famous for its river prawns, but also plenty of other delicious dishes.

Drink
The main traveller-oriented area is Soi Torgorsor, between Pamaphrao Rd and Naresuan Rd, opposite the west end of Chao Phrom Market. It has a number of bars staying open until late, some with projection screens for sports.

Sleep
Most tourists visit Ayutthaya on a day trip from Bangkok, but there are numerous options available if you wish to spend the night here.

There are a large number of traveller-oriented guest houses on and around Soi 2 between Naresuan Rd and Pamaphrao Rd, opposite the western end of the Chao Phrom Market. Accommodation in the upper price brackets is limited though there are some options by the riverside.

Respect
Wear long trousers/skirts to temples, and no sleeveless T-shirts or revealing blouses. Treat Buddha images with utmost respect, just as you would in the rest of Thailand.

Stay safe
Ayutthaya has a lot of hungry stray dogs in poor condition. They can particularly be a problem in the off-season when there aren't so many people in the streets. While largely docile and harmless, to avoid being chased around by a pack of them it is best not to walk around alone, particularly at night. For those accustomed to travel in developing areas, there should be no problem.

When cycling around the city beware of motorcyclists. Do not put any valuable items in your handlebar basket, as they may be snatched at traffic lights. Also, female travellers have been groped by passing-by motorcyclists, so beware if someone slows down next to you.

Some small shops sell bottles of water that are not completely full. Check before you buy and if not full assess risk and decide: there will likely be an alternative shop nearby.

There are many hospitals, clinics and pharmacies in Ayutthaya. Several major ones are:
 * Ayutthaya Hospital
 * Navanakorn Hospital
 * Sena Hospital
 * Ratchathani Hospital
 * Supamitr Sena Hospital
 * Peravech Hospital
 * Wangnoi Hospital
 * Rojanavech Hospital

Go next

 * Bang Pa-In — famous for its eccentric palace and only to the south
 * Kanchanaburi — the famous bridge over the River Kwai and numerous World War II museums
 * Khao Yai National Park — first and 3rd largest national park of the country
 * Lopburi — the next destination if you take the train north, with monkeys and ancient ruins
 * Nakhon Ratchasima — gateway to the Isaan region
 * Sukhothai — another former capital of Siam with impressive ancient ruins

title: Ayutthaya


text:
Ayvalık

Ayvalık is a city in the Northern Aegean region of Turkey, with a population of 71,063 in 2018. It's on the south coast of the Gulf of Edremit, an inlet of the Aegean Sea, and connected by bridges to the resort of Cunda island, also described on this page. It was Greek for much of its history, and is within view (and a short ferry ride) of Mytilini on the Greek island of Lesvos.

Understand
Ayvalık’s ancient name was Kydonia (Κυδωνίες) - both names refer to quince but the city has long been surrounded by olive trees. Olives are a staple product that you can consume or trade, and Kydonia was also the port for other Hellenistic cities such as Pergamon, now Bergama. The sea was a mixed blessing, bringing trade but also seaborne attack. The city came under Ottoman control from the 14th century but with a high degree of autonomy. Its population remained overwhelmingly Greek until the First World War, in spite of inter-ethnic massacres in the 19th century as Greece broke away from the Ottoman Empire. There were further massacres in the follow-on war of 1919-1922, when Greece sought to wrest more territory from defeated Turkey, but was thrown back by a resurgent nation under Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.

The 1923 Treaty of Lausanne brought a peace that has lasted, albeit often frosty. The borders were redrawn and almost all the Aegean islands (such as nearby Lesvos) were assigned to Greece. Greeks were deported from mainland Turkey while Turks were deported from Greek territory, and the Turks from Crete were resettled in the town renamed Ayvalık. This was one of the better-matched population exchanges, as Cretan architecture, street life and cuisine had a lot in common with those of the former Kydonia.

This heritage is nowadays the distinctive feature of Ayvalık. Sure enough in both city and outlying areas there are many sad ruins and tumbledown old buildings. But to a greater extent than elsewhere, you'll find elegant mansions, traditional East Mediterranean houses, and cobbled alleys suffused with the perfume of frying fish.

The Government Tourist Office (Turizm Danışma) remains closed in 2022. Lots of commercial agencies with sell you tours or tout accommodation.

By plane
The nearest airport is Edremit Korfez Airport 40 km northeast, with flights from Istanbul (both IST and SAW) and occasionally Ankara. It's been grandly renamed Balıkesir Koca Seyit Airport but remains as far from Balıkesir as before.

Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport is 175 km south but has a much better range of international and domestic flights.

By train
The nearest station is Balıkesir 130 km east. This has a daytime and an overnight train from Ankara via Eskişehir heading for Izmir, plus a daily train from Bandırma on the Marmara coast (with fast ferries from Istanbul) also heading for Izmir. The bus between Balıkesir and Ayvalık takes just under 2 hours.

By car
By road from Istanbul take O-7 east, sweeping over Osmangazi Bridge onto O-5 southwest past Bursa - the tolls are pricey but worth it for the time-saving. Beyond Balıkesir turn off onto D230 west, to join D550 on the Aegean coast near Edremit, and reckon 8 hours altogether.

From Izmir follow E87 / O-33 north (you really don't want to be stop-starting on the old highway D550) until the town off-ramp by the bus station.

By bus
Buses from Istanbul to Izmir call at Ayvalık so this is a frequent service round the clock. The trip takes just under 8 hours and in 2022 you might pay 500 TL single. Buses from Çanakkale also call here. Operators on the route include Pamukkale, Metro Turizm and Flixbus.

From Izmir the bus takes 2 hours and might cost 100 TL. Look for a local bus rather than an inter-city.

The is 3 km east of town centre at the bypass junction, so you need a local bus or dolmuș to get downtown.

Otogar the old bus station is town centre near the waterfront. This is where a dolmuș or local bus will bring you.

By boat
Car ferries from Mytilini on the Greek island of Lesvos take 90 min. Turyol is the ferry line: in 2022 a one way adult ticket was €20, return €30.

The is 1 km north of town centre.

Get around
Local buses and dolmuşes run frequently from town centre to Cunda island and to Çamlık.

The summer ferryboat between town and Cunda island no longer sails.

See

 * Saatli Camii or "Clock Mosque" for its clocktower was a Greek Orthodox church of 1850. It was converted into a mosque in 1928 and the minaret added but the interior was little changed. It's on Çarşı Sk 100 m southwest of Taksiyarhis Church.
 * Çınarlı Mosque 100 m southeast of Clock Mosque is another neo-classical Greek church turned into a mosque.
 * The castle on the hill overlooking the ferry port is just an old windmill tower. Nice sunset views towards Cunda island, but layabouts trash the area faster than the Council can clean it up.
 * Elias Venezis (Elias Mellos / Ηλίας Μέλλος 1904-1973) the novelist was born in the house on 13 Nisan Cd, No 112 - it's neglected and you can't go in. When Turkey re-captured the area from the Greeks in 1922, Venezis was among those put into a 3000-man "labour battalion" and sent on a death march - only a couple of dozen survived, and Number 31328 is his literary account. Many old houses in this district might tell similar stories but are rapidly succumbing to time and the developers.
 * is a holy spring - washing your face in it may or may not erase your sins, ailments and losing streak with lottery tickets. The tradition is 800 years old but by the early 20th century the springhead was disused and the building became an olive factory. That too closed in the 1970s and became tumbledown, but it was restored from 2015 in neo-Classical style. The other old houses in this neighbourhood are in somewhat better shape than elsewhere in Ayvalık.
 * means "pine woods" and it's a bosky southern suburb with upmarket neo-classical mansions.
 * means "Satan's Table". It's a breezy hilltop (bring your jacket) with a restaurant where you come to watch the sunset. A mark in the rock is said to be Satan's footprint: there are several versions of what he was doing here, but some visitors believe he's still around as the car park attendant, who charges 15 TL then tries to gouge more.
 * means "Satan's Table". It's a breezy hilltop (bring your jacket) with a restaurant where you come to watch the sunset. A mark in the rock is said to be Satan's footprint: there are several versions of what he was doing here, but some visitors believe he's still around as the car park attendant, who charges 15 TL then tries to gouge more.
 * means "Satan's Table". It's a breezy hilltop (bring your jacket) with a restaurant where you come to watch the sunset. A mark in the rock is said to be Satan's footprint: there are several versions of what he was doing here, but some visitors believe he's still around as the car park attendant, who charges 15 TL then tries to gouge more.
 * Cunda Island is the popular name for those islands linked to town by 15 Eylül ("September") Cd. The first one you reach is Lale or Tulip Island, also called Dolap Adası, Cabinet Island. The original causeway made the port lagoon stagnant so in 2017 it was replaced by Gönül Bridge, toll-free.
 * Alibey Island is the main "Cunda" island, reached from Lale by Ayvalık Strait (or 15 Eylül) Bridge, completed in 1964 and likewise toll-free.
 * Ay Dimitri (St Demetrius) is on the hill behind the first junction as you come off the bridge, but don't bother. It was the chapel of an 18th century monastery, dilapidated but roughly in one piece until 2020. Then treasure hunters excavated around it, undercutting the foundations, so the next rainfall reduced it to rubble.
 * Hamidiye Mosque is on the seafront at the corner of Mevlana Cd. It was completed in 1897 / 98.
 * Panaya Church is just a sorry shell 200 m north of Taksiyarhis church. It was built in the 18th century, abandoned in 1923, damaged by an earthquake in 1944 and part-demolished later. It's a brave motorist who leaves a car parked next to it.
 * Sevim And Necdet Kent Library just north of Panaya Church has icons and frescoes rescued from Orthodox churches.
 * Old houses line the alleys around the church and library.
 * Leka Monastery one km west of the main village on Alibey Island is now a private residence.
 * is a scrappy ruin in the hills, you only come for the forest hike.
 * is a scrappy ruin in the hills, you only come for the forest hike.
 * or Pigeon Island could barely accommodate a flock of pigeons but has, guess what, another ruined monastery.
 * is the other monastery dedicated to St Demetrius - again, don't bother. Also known as the Moonlight Monastery (Ayışığı Manastırı), from 2012 it was re-developed with the monastery incorporated into a modern resort building. The project appears to have stalled and in 2022 the area remains fenced off. It's on Patriçya peninsula at the north end of the island along a bad road.
 * west of Cunda must have been irresistible to hermits, but the Portoselene Tower was a lookout and not religious.
 * Ayvalık Islands Nature Park is the designation of the whole archipelago of some three dozen islands. Only Lale and Alibey are nowadays inhabited (and heavily developed as resorts) while the others have become depopulated. Boat trips sometimes visit their quiet coves.
 * 8 km south of the town is a broad sandy beach 7 km long, with lots of restaurants and hotels.
 * is 13 km south of town. Public transport might be taking you instead to Altinova village, 4 km inland along the main highway.
 * See Dikili for points further south towards Izmir.

Do

 * Scuba diving: the islands have several sites. Ayvalık 3 Sea Diving Center runs boat trips.
 * Watch the sunset at Devil’s Table (Şeytan Sofrası) south of town.
 * Football: Ayvalıkgücü were promoted in 2022 and now play soccer in TFF 3. Lig, the country's fourth tier. Their home ground Hüsnü Uğural Stadyumu (capacity 5000) is south of town centre near the marina.

Buy

 * Everything related to olives: olive oil, brined olives, castile soap . . . you can probably buy olive-based small automobile parts here.
 * "Persembe Pazari" means Thursday market and it's in the town back streets.

Eat

 * Seafood is the thing here — a local saying invokes the unholy trinity of Rakı, Balık, Ayvalık ("rakı, fish, Ayvalık"). Eating places are clustered downtown and in the village on Cunda island. "Meyhane" indicates tables lined along an alley.

 * Ayvalık Tostu is a local toasted sandwich, with cheese, sausage, pickles, and condiments. Perhaps you wouldn't write home about it, but when in Rome...

 * Other local delicacies include stuffed squash blossom (kabak çiçeği dolması), which replaces the grapevine leaves of the typical Turkish dolma with squash flowers.

 * In town are Papa John's pizza chain, Acelya Cafe, Köfteci Yusuf, İyimiş Meyhane, Tamam Meyhane, Tostçular çarşısı chain, Olay Tost, Hacıoğlu Aşkın Tost Evi, Ayvalık Müptela Köftecisi, Urfa Balıklıgöl sofrası, Ayvalik City Club Yoruk Mehmet's, İki Tek Meyhane, Çiçek Meyhane, Bi Meyhane Ayvalık Et&Kebap-Meze, Ayvalık Deniz Yıldızı Restoran and many more.
 * Cunda island eating strip is along Mevlana Cd. They include Lokma İmparatoru, Cunda Sahil, Lal Girit Mutfağı, Cundalinin Balık Evi, Zayka, Cunda Yakamoz, Cundeli, Cunda Deniz, Sardunya and L’arancia Cunda.

Drink

 * Downtown pubs include The Shelby, White Knight, Batı Roof, Vatos, Statik Heraklitos, By Deniz, Pena Wine House and Kraft Ayvalik.
 * Cunda island pubs are a block back from the waterfront, such as Kara Kedi, Orman, Laterna, Cielo Bistro, La Fuga and Cunda Se7en.

Sleep

 * Lots and lots of accommodation, in three main areas: the town, Cunda island, and Sarımsaklı Beach south of town.

Connect
Ayvalık town, its approach highways and the islands linked by road have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of July 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

 * Edremit northeast is itself inland, but is the main town of a string of little beach resorts around the gulf.
 * Bergama southeast has the substantial Graeco-Roman ruins of Pergamon. An alternative route follows the scenic country lane across the old growth stone pine forests of the Kozak plateau.
 * Foça on the north fringes of Izmir is another small port that has preserved its Greek architecture.
 * Izmir south is a busy modern city with much to explore.
 * Istanbul to Izmir is a long-distance itinerary with one branch running through Ayvalık.

title: Ayvalık


text:
Azad Kashmir

 * For the Indian-controlled part of Kashmir, see Jammu and Kashmir.

Azad Jammu and Kashmir (Urdu:آزاد جموں و کشمیر) or, for short, Azad Kashmir (literally Free Kashmir), is part of the Pakistani-controlled portion of Kashmir, lying west of Indian-controlled Jammu and Kashmir.

Nice people and fertile, green and scenic mountain valleys are characteristics of Azad Kashmir, making it one of the most beautiful regions on the Subcontinent. While Kashmir as a whole is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful regions in the world, Azad Kashmir is as well rich in natural beauty and often dubbed "Heaven on Earth" by tourists for its scenic natural beauty and stunning landscapes. Its snow-covered peaks, forests, rivers, streams, valleys, velvet green plateaus and climate varying from arctic to tropical combine to make it an excellent and popular tourist destination both for domestic and foreign tourists throughout the year.

Regions
Azad Jammu and Kashmir, Pakistan is a remote autonomous state, with 3 administrative divisions:

 * Mirpur Division
 * Muzaffarabad Division
 * Poonch Division

Cities

 * — the capital of the state and close to the epicentre of the 2005 earthquake
 * Palandri or Pallandri (Urdu: پلندری) — a town in Sudhanoti district of Azad Kashmir. It is located at latitude 33° 42′ 54″ N, longitude 73° 41′ 9″ E, 90 km (56 mi) from Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan. It is connected with Rawalpindi and Islamabad through Azad Pattan road. The main tribe of Pallandri is the Sudhan tribe. It is at an elevation of 1372 m and is 97 km (60 mi) from Rawalpindi via Azad Pattan. First capital of the state. The most famous educational institution of Pallandri is Cadet College.
 * — hills on both sides of the river, lush green forests, enchanting streams, high altitude lakes and attractive surroundings
 * — the second largest city of Azad Kashmir and popular for its nearby Mangla view resort
 * — a place of great natural beauty
 * — the second largest city of Azad Kashmir and popular for its nearby Mangla view resort
 * — a place of great natural beauty
 * — the second largest city of Azad Kashmir and popular for its nearby Mangla view resort
 * — a place of great natural beauty

Understand

Azad Kashmir has a population of four million. It is a self-governing territory controlled by Pakistan. It borders the Indian-controlled state of Jammu and Kashmir to the east (separated from it by the "Line of Control", the military control line between the Indian and Pakistani-controlled parts of the former princely state of Jammu and Kashmir).

As with the rest of Pakistan, Azad Kashmir is an ethnically diverse place that's home to numerous ethnic groups and cultures. Unlike Jammu and Kashmir, most residents of the region are not ethnic Kashmiris and the Kashmiri language isn't widely spoken.

The culture of Azad Kashmir has many similarities to that of northern Punjabi (Potohar) culture in Punjab province.

The Mirpuris, an ethnic group whose roots are in Mirpur, are noted for forming most of the Pakistani community in the United Kingdom. Many Mirpuris moved to the United Kingdom during the 1960s and the 1970s.

A devastating earthquake hit Azad Kashmir in 2005 centred near the city of Muzaffarabad. It was the eighteenth deadliest earthquake of all time and aid teams from around the world came to the affected region to assist in relief

Weather
The climate of Azad Kashmir varies with altitude. The central and northern parts, as a mountainous area in the lesser Himalayas zone, is very cold in winter with snowfall and moderate in summer, while the southern parts of Azad Kashmir have extremely hot weather in the summer and only moderately cold weather in the winter. Azad Kashmir receives rainfall in both winters and summers.

Get in

Given the difficult geographical position of Azad Kashmir, there's no railway station. There are two airports in Azad Kashmir, in the capital city Muzaffarabad and in Rawalakot, but they are closed and it's not possible to fly directly to Azad Kashmir. The nearest major airports are in Islamabad or Rawalpindi.

While by road is the only way to get in Azad Kashmir, travelling by road to Azad Kashmir is itself an attraction as you come across the most beautiful scenes of winding rivers and hills. Practically, Azad Kashmir can be easily approachable by road from all nearby cities of Punjab and buses leave from Islamabad approximately every 20 minutes for different destinations in Azad Kashmir, but the most commonly used routes are:

 * From Rawalpindi to Muzaffarabad via the beautiful hills of Murree (140 km).

Get around
Albeit by road is the only practical means of getting around, still there are various ways of getting around in Azad Kashmir, if you are not already travelling with your own vehicle. Most tourists hire a taxi (various kinds available), which takes you around to all the sight seeing spots in Azad Kashmir. Muzaffarabad and Mirpur has the busiest bus network, running from early hours of the morning to late night.

See

The northern part of Azad Kashmir encompasses the lower part of the Himalayas where scenic views are in abundance which make it a very popular holiday-retreat during the summer months.

There're many tourist spots but some most well-known are the two historical forts Red Fort (Chak Fort) and Black Fort located on the bank side of the Neelam River in Muzaffarabad. They were contracted in 16th century and holds archaeological significance. Pir Chinasi is tourist spot 30 km east of Muzaffarabad on the top of hills at the altitude of 9,500 feet (2,900 m). The mountain peak has gained large fame for its ziyarat of a famous Saint Pir and this place is visited by tourists who can get a great view of Muzaffarabad and rural areas around the hidden city.

Neelam Valley is a long river, possesses scenic beauty, great panoramic views, towering hills on both sides of the noisy river, lush green forests, enchanting streams and attractive surroundings. Another great river is the Leepa Valley which is full scenic beauty as well. It has high mountains covered with pine trees covered with snow during the winter season.

Some other great tourist attractions are extremely beautiful artificial Banjosa Lake surrounded by densely pine forest and mountains, which make its very charming and romantic. A nearby hilltop Toli Pir is very natural beautiful area.

Do
Azad Kashmir is known for its great valleys and high, lush green mountain ranges; outdoor recreation opportunities are plentiful. It has varied mountainous landscape ranging from low hills to high mountains (2000 to 6000 m) which are suitable for many adventure sports such as climbing, trekking, mountaineering, summer camping and hiking or even paragliding.

Azad Kashmir is a great place for water sports activities, from rafting, canoeing and kayaking to wind surfacing, boating, rowing and hovercraft.

Buy

Pashmina, Saffron

Eat
The popular and traditional cuisines of Azad Kashmir are Kashmiri Raan (Fried leg of lamb in Kashmiri style), Rogan Josh, Balti Gosht, Kashmiri Dal Chawal (A mixture of split peas, split red lentils, and boiled rice), and Dam Aloo (Fried Potatoes in Kashmiri style).

Drink
Kashmiri tea (Kashmiri chai) is a traditional tea beverage of Azad Kashmir. It is slow-steeped milk tea of a creamy pink complexion made from special tea leaves, milk, salt, pistachios, almonds, and cardamom and sometimes cinnamon is also added for flavour.

Sleep
There are lots of options from dormitories to luxury resort hotels and you can find all type of lodging facilities mostly own by AJK Tourism and Archeology Department available in Azad Kashmir whether you're looking to camp, a budget room for a backpacker or want to pay and stay in luxury. There are various guest houses, rest houses, motels and hotels at most of the tourist spots and in major cities. Rooms in Azad Kashmir range from Rs 1,000 to Rs 50,000 in the most luxurious hotel Pearls Continental.

Stay safe
Azad Kashmir is quite a safe and peaceful region. Crime-wise also Azad Kashmir is considered to be relatively safe.

Sometimes, temperatures go below freezing, especially in the winter; dress accordingly.

Some parts of Azad Kashmir are off-limits to tourists, particularly the 15-mile-wide buffer zone or 16 km along the Line of Control that separates the state from the neighbouring Indian-administered state of Jammu and Kashmir. Domestic tourists can visit Azad Kashmir without any restriction, but are advised to keep their identity papers with them. Foreign tourists are allowed to visit the following places only with a permit: Dheerkot, Rawalakot, Chotta Gala, Chikkar, Daokhan, Muzaffarabad, Mangia and Sehnsa. Permits are issued by the AJK Home Department at Muzaffarabad.

Don't take photographs of military installations around the Line of Control or you'll be in very serious trouble.

Respect
As with many people living in Kashmir, people are divided into several opposing camps – some who desire full independence, some who desire integration with Pakistan, and some who desire integration with India. It's best to refrain from discussing this subject as it could lead to fierce, passionate debates or arguments.

Given the complexity of the Kashmir conflict, it's also wise to refrain from bringing anything up about Gilgit-Baltistan becoming a province.

title: Azad Kashmir


text:
Azay-le-Rideau

Azay-le-Rideau is a small town in France.

See
The chateau by the same name.

title: Azay-le-Rideau