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Crete

Crete (Greek: Κρήτη / Kríti, sometimes spelled "Krete" in English) is the largest of the Greek islands and is the fifth largest in the Mediterranean Sea - after Sicily, Sardinia, Cyprus, and Corsica. It is located between the Sea of Crete and the Libyan Sea, south of the Peloponnese. It contains the southernmost city within the European continent, Ierapetra, which is only about from the coast of Libya. Crete is approximately long and  wide. The island is divided into four prefectures: from west to east, Chania, Rethymnon, Heraklion, and Lasithi. Crete's population is approximately 650,000.

While all Greek islands have their own charm and beauty, Crete is undoubtedly one of the most diverse, blessed with a remarkable amount of truly spectacular natural beauty and a wide variety of varied architecture that pays tribute to its ancient Minoan past and chronicles its history of conquest from the Greek mainland, the Venetian era, and the Turkish/Ottoman period.

Certainly, the island has its share of magnificent beaches and ritzy beach resorts, but there is plenty more to explore - from rugged mountain peaks (some of which remain capped with snow throughout much of the year) and breathtaking gorges to metropolitan cities and sleepy traditional villages where it is not uncommon to see donkeys carrying vegetables being led past cars and scooters. There are miles of olive trees and vineyards, palm trees, and desert-like landscapes. There are beautiful Byzantine churches and monasteries, many of which are open to visitors. There are ancient ruins scattered everywhere. In fact, just about everything that can be found anywhere in Greece can be seen here.

Prefectures
Crete is divided into four regional units.

Cities

 * (Greek: Ηράκλειον) — in Heraklion Prefecture, it is the largest city and capital of the island. It has the Minoan Palace of Knossos archeological site, the island's main international airport and cruise/ferry port, an important archeological museum, and a harbor boasting structures from the Venetian period (1205-1669).
 * (Greek: Χανιά) — the island's second-largest city and capital of Chania Prefecture. It has a largely intact Old Town, another airport and cruise/ferry port, numerous structures from the Venetian and Ottoman (1689-1898) period, a number of museums, and the important NATO naval base of Souda Bay.
 * (Greek: Ρέθυμνο) — capital of Rethymnon Prefecture. It has a cruise/ferry port, a well-preserved Old Town (at the foot of a massive Venetian fortress), which is a maze of lanes and alleys primarily reserved for pedestrians.
 * (Greek: Σητεία) — medium-sized harbour city on the far eastern tip of the island (within Lasithi Prefecture). It has a cruise/ferry port and airport, and access to some very unspoiled beaches.
 * (Greek: Ιεράπετρα) — the southernmost city of Europe (in Lasithi Prefecture). It has some of the longest and finest sandy beaches on the island, an old Venetian fort, and the small, uninhabited island of Chrysi, which is protected as an area of intense natural beauty and which shelters the largest naturally grown group of Lebanese cedar forest in Europe.
 * (Greek: Άγιος Νικόλαος) — the charming capital of Lasithi Prefecture, that was once known as a partying hot-spot. It has another cruise/ferry port, a lake lined with tavernas, many upscale shops and easy access to jet-set Elounda and the historic former leper colony island of Spinalonga.
 * (Greek: Μάλια) — Today, Malia (Heraklion Prefecture) has taken over as the hedonistic "party capital" of the island, popular mostly with young, especially British, visitors. It has an unsavory reputation for drunken tourists staggering through the streets, music bars and discos until dawn.
 * (Greek: Αρχάνες) — medium-sized mountain city. It has a charming Old Town about a 20-minute drive south of Heraklion city and is set in the center of a heavy viticulture area marked by extensive vineyards.
 * (Greek: Χουδέτσι) — also known as Choudetsi, a small mountain town just south of Archanes. It has some nice old stone buildings, a few small hotels, and tavernas and kafeneions.

Other destinations

 * (Greek: Φαράγγι Σαμαριάς) — A breathtaking gorge on the southern part of Chania Prefecture open for the 5- to 7-hour moderately strenuous hike from 1 May until mid-October.
 * (Greek: Οροπέδιο Λασιθίου) — A large fertile plateau in the centre of Lassithi Prefecture at an altitude of 840 meters (2,760 ft). Once, as many as 10,000 white-sailed windmills operated on the plateau, but these have largely been replaced by diesel and electric irrigation pumps. Numerous old stone windmills (some ruins, some beautifully restored) still stand along the passes above the plateau.
 * (Greek: Βάι) — The largest palm-forest of Europe, spanning 250 stremmata (Greek unit of surface equal with 1000m²) consisted by Phoenix theophrastii (Cretan palm), an indigenous species of palm.

Orientation
The major tourist sites and settlements are located all along the northern coast of the island, and this is where a major highway (called the Vorios Odikos Axonas Kritis (VOAK) or ΒΟΑΚ (Βόρειος Οδικός Άξονας Κρήτης) New National Road) runs east/west from one end of the island to the other. There are branches running south from major cities, making portions of the south more accessible despite the distance from the main cities of the north. Except for the southern city of Ierapetra, the south coast is very undeveloped due to the ruggedness of the terrain. This is true also of the rugged mountainous areas in the interior.

The vast majority of visitors stay within the sphere of one of the main northern cities, and explore the island from that base of operations. It is a large island, made doubly so by the challenging roads, and requires time to fully explore. Vacationers from Europe rarely stay more than two weeks, so many will only see the island's major highlights and the area around their lodging. Still, there is a sizable number of Europeans who stay longer, come back year after year, and get to know the island very well.

There are pockets of areas (especially all-inclusive resort lodgings) that appeal to and are marketed to one or another nationality more than others. Visitors come from all over Europe, but the largest numbers are from the United Kingdom, Germany, Russia, and France. A sizable percentage of these visitors prefer the all-inclusive hotels. If you plan on staying in one, you will want to do a little research to see what nationality it caters to. You probably do not want to be someone who speaks only English in a hotel whose guests are predominantly French and Russian speakers.

Except for the major port cities and towns, settlements near the coast were built on the hills above the water. This practice dates to ancient times, and the purpose was for residents to be able to see pirates and other invaders from afar. They could then rush to the sea to challenge them or flee higher up in the mountains. Today, there are many settlements right on the water that began to develop as tourism exploded in the 1960s and 1970s. These new, lower villages are called "kato" (κάτω) while the old upper villages are called "epano" (επάνω). Most towns and villages, especially along the coast, will be in two sections - the upper and lower. Be clear about whether you are going kato or epano when asking for directions.

History
Crete was the center of the Bronze Age Minoan Civilization, a sophisticated culture from about the 27th to 12th century BCE. The Minoans left behind the ruins of palaces, tombs and sacred sites. The civilization was so sophisticated that they had a large navy, and settlement sites showed evidence of sophisticated water and sewage systems. There has been debate about the cause of the Minoan decline, with theories suggesting it was initiated by the tsunami from the huge eruption of Thera on Santorini in 1450 BCE, by invading forces like the Mycenaean, and even that the Minoans exceeded the ability of the environment to support them.

Because of its strategic location, Crete has often been invaded and occupied. After the Mycenaeans, came the Romans, the Byzantine Empire, the Venetians and the Ottomans. These invaders left their marks on the island, leaving behind distinctive architecture, mosques, ancient lighthouses and sophisticated aqueducts.

Crete became an independent state in 1898, and was declared part of Greece in 1908. The island was again invaded in 1941 by the Germans. Resistance from Cretans and Allied troops (mainly from Australia, New Zealand and the UK) was fierce. This became known as the Battle of Crete.

There is much mythology related to the island. The most important is the myth of King Minos, who refused to sacrifice a bull to the Greek gods. Poseidon in turn forced Minos' wife to fall in love with a bull which created the mythical beast, the Minotaur. It is said the palace of Knossos is the site of the famous labyrinth with the Minotaur slain by Theseus. A cave at Mount Ida is said to be the birthplace of Zeus.

See also Ancient Greece.

Economy

Agriculture is the most important industry of the island, although tourism is also extremely important to the economy. The island has begun to rely on tourism more and more since the 1970s; many towns serve no other purpose, and virtually close down during the winter. There are only about 60 days of rain per year, and nearly every home and business is topped with solar panels. The west part of the island is more forested and receives more rain than the east. The entire island was once completely covered with forest, primarily cedar and pine. It has been largely deforested for firewood and to make room for the olive trees and vineyards.

Different areas are known for different crops. The soil around Malia is particularly good for potatoes and bananas, and to a lesser degree oranges. The Malia bananas are particularly sought after. They are small and very tasty. As you drive through the town, you will see many roadside stands selling potatoes and bananas. The bananas are hanging on one large stem. Point out how many you want, and the vendor will slice those off for you. In many supermarkets, there will be a large branch propped up on the floor in the produce section. A sharp knife will be stuck in it and you can slice off your own bunch. Oranges from the area between Rethymnon and Chania are sought after. Driving that stretch of the National Road will reveal many stalls along the side in the apparent middle of nowhere, being attended by old men or women. Ierapetra is well known for its large nurseries, some of which have important export businesses for cut flowers - particularly long-stemmed roses and lilies. Many other kinds of flowers, herbs, and strawberry plants are grown here for export and purchase around the island. Herbs of all kinds, walnuts, almonds, chestnuts, and honey are grown and produced everywhere on the island, and you can find stalls along roadsides everywhere selling their fresh products.

By plane
The island has three significant airports: There are daily flights from Athens airport by Olympic Air and Aegean Airlines. Sky Express operates flights from Athens airport to Sitia.

From April till early November charter airlines fly directly to Sitea, Heraklion, and Chania from many European airports.

Flights going from Heraklion and Chania to Thessaloniki take about an hour and a half. The airport at Heraklion also has daily flights to Rhodes which take 1 hr.

By boat
ANEK Lines and Blue Star Ferries have formed a joint service which dominates ferries in Crete. There are ferries from Piraeus to Chania and Heraklion, all taking about 8 and a half hours. They are mainly night ferries, but in the high season there are also day-time routes called "imerisia". Another company is Minoan Lines, which goes from Heraklion to Kyklades, but also has large ships that go to Piraeus. Other ports that have ferry routes are Rethymno, Sitia and Kisamos, also known as "Kasteli Kisamou" or "Kavonisi". Sea Jets has a ferry that goes from Kissamos to the Peloponnese via Kythira and Antikythira, as well as a highspeed ferry that goes from Rethymno to Santorini during the summer time. Lastly, ANEK Lines serves Siteia with Kasos, Karpathos, Chalki and Rodos via a low-traffic subdisided route called "Agoni Kasokarpathias".

By car
See the Orientation section for a description of how the roads are set up.

Basics. Hiring a car is very easy. You need a valid driving licence written in the Roman alphabet. If it is in another alphabet (like Cyrillic or Chinese), you will need an International Driving Licence. The driving age in Greece is 18 for passenger cars and 16 for mopeds. Car hire companies may have different limits, so check first. When you pick up your vehicle, make sure to list all eligible drivers.

Supply & locations. You will find a plethora of car hire outlets everywhere where there are tourists, including around airports and cruise/ferry ports. Towns, and even small villages, that cater to tourists will have readily accessible car hire outlets. Some of the larger hotels are apt to have a rental desk on site. Even small hotels can help you arrange a rental. There are some international outlets, such as Hertz and Avis, as well as many local companies. The majority of the local companies are reliable and reputable.

Prices. Prices vary from outlet to outlet, so it pays to research carefully. A very low price could indicate that VAT tax and insurance are not included, and then you are surprised at the extras on arrival. A high price may indicate far more insurance than you require. Most hotels will receive a commission for arranging car rentals, and that will be added to your rate. Do online research before arrival; request rates from more than one company and be persistent in having all your questions answered to your satisfaction. You can, and should, pay for rental vehicles with a credit card.

Types of vehicles. In addition to regular passenger cars, you can rent 4-wheel drive vehicles, dune buggies, larger "people movers" for groups of six to nine (including drivers), full-sized motorcycles, scooters, and bicycles. There are also quads. These are like motorcycles with four wheels and can comfortably accommodate two people. Regular passenger cars are small, many with only two doors. If you are four adults, you will probably be more comfortable with a four-door. Luggage space is also limited, so plan accordingly.

Helmets, seat belts and child seats. There are helmet, seat belt and child seat laws in Crete. Child seats are available, but the supply is limited. You should reserve yours in advance or bring your own if in doubt. Rental companies are required to have helmets available for all vehicles that require one.

At least half the local people ignore helmet laws, which is an interesting reflection of the Cretans' fierce independence and resistance to authority. You will see people riding motorcycles and other open vehicles with a helmet looped over one arm. This began when the law to "wear a helmet" was introduced. When stopped, they pointed out that the law didn't specify where one had to wear it. Whether or not you can still get away with this probably depends on the mood of the police officer who stops you.

You will see at least half the visitors ignore helmet laws, which is an interesting reflection on tourists. The roads in Crete can be dangerous, especially to the uninitiated; quads and motorcycles can be unstable, especially for the inexperienced. Since most tourists are tooling around on their quads and motorcycles in bikinis and skimpy shorts while sightseeing and taking photographs, it is strongly advised to wear a helmet. The emergency rooms are filled with tourists with broken limbs and nasty scrapes all over their bodies. These will mend, but a crushed skull is another story. Quads, bikes, and motorcycles do not come with personal injury insurance. Check with your home insurer.

Traffic & parking violations. There are random checkpoints where police will pull you over to check your papers. Without a helmet or proper paperwork, you will probably be ticketed. There are also laws against speeding, illegal passing, tailgating, etc., but these are not often pursued unless egregious right in front of a police officer. Ticket costs are high. If you are caught driving drunk, the penalties are steep. If you are involved in an accident while driving drunk, the penalties are even stiffer, and you are apt to be taken immediately to jail.

Parking is rather flexible, and illegal parking is rampant. In cities and larger towns, there are centrally located parking lots that are relatively inexpensive. It's advisable to use them. In smaller towns and villages, you can park just about anywhere, including on the pavement (if there is one) or even blocking another vehicle. If doing the latter, you should make sure your destination is within sight/sound of your car. When the blocked person needs to move, they will sound the horn. There is ticketing for illegal parking (also expensive). In tourist towns, you should be aware and move your car if you see police ticketing. There are periodic "sweeps" of ticketing and towing in crowded tourist towns when a business owner, bus or taxi driver complains.

Road hazards. Driving in Crete, even on the main, modern east–west highway can be challenging. You must have your wits about you at all times. This is especially true if you come from a country that drives on the left. Drinking and driving and not paying attention can be very dangerous. All the charming roadside shrines you see everywhere were erected by family members to mark the spot where a loved one died.

Even on the main highway, there are long stretches of only two lanes that twist and turn. Even though there is only one "legal" lane in each direction, vehicles will pass in the face of oncoming traffic and on blind turns. You will see that almost all vehicles typically travel half in the breakdown lane and half in their own lane in order to create a "middle" lane for illegal passing - sometimes four lanes are created. Speeds are high. Big buses, long haul trucks, and taxis pull up close behind you and pass recklessly at breakneck speed very close to your vehicle.

Driving on the narrow roads up in the mountains is another challenge, presenting blind hairpin turns, sheer drop-offs, and roads sometimes wide enough for only one vehicle. There are apt to be goats on the road, along with slow-moving farm vehicles and bicycles. The tiny lanes in small villages are the same, and driving through a tourist town at the height of the season requires all your attention. Do not expect to be yielded the right of way even at a traffic light, expect cars to stop at any given time and for scooters to pull out in front of you.

Driving is the very best way to see the island, presenting spectacular vistas everywhere. On roads that offer picturesque views, there are often pullout areas for photo stops, and a car gives you the flexibility to stop wherever you like.

Road maps, road signs & petrol stations. There are very detailed road maps available at most of the petrol stations on the main highways. Virtually all hotels and car rental places can provide good tourist maps. Road signs on all the main roads are in both Greek and English. Generally, you will pass a Greek road sign and then the same one in English a few meters later. Be careful --- Some extremely devoted Cretans shoot road signs with guns. You'll notice them if you see holes in a sign. Many of the non-main roads will have signs in both Greek and English. Since the economic crisis, many petrol stations will not accept credit cards. Ask before filling the tank. All petrol stations are full-serve - you do not pump your own.

Taxis. Taxis in Crete are quite expensive. They do not provide an economical touring option. They are good for airport runs, in an emergency, or for a short distance. There are taxi stands in all cities and larger towns. If there is no taxi stand, you should be able to find a taverna or other business that will phone one for you. Make sure you know the price before getting in the taxi.

By bus

Public transportation is fairly frequent and timetables are quite trustworthy. Bus drivers usually divert from their marked routes to enter little villages if asked to do so. Bus services along the north coast and towards the south coast are excellent, reliable, frequent and cheap.

Most of these bus services are run by Kino Tamio Eispraxeon Leoforion, KTEL, which are groups of families which individually run their own bus companies. This, in turn, creates a much more homely environment for Cretans and tourists and these families provide excellent service and show off their great deal of pride.

Cretan bus stations are very simple for the most part, except for Heraklion which has two major bus stations: one for local buses in town and one for long-distance KTEL buses.

By ferry
Crete has many ferry connections for example: You can go from Piraeus to Heraklion with Minoan Lines, to Chania with ANEK Lines or Hellenic Seaways, to Ayios Nikolaos and Sitia with LANE Lines. LANE also operates routes from Ayios Nikolaos/Sitia to Rhodes and other Greek islands. In the summer, there are daily catmarans (hydrofoils) from Heraklion to Santorini. The trip takes about 2.5 hours. Hellenic Seaways and SeaJets offer these sailings. You can also go to Crete by ferry from the Peloponnese (Gytheio) and Kythira island. This ferry lands on the west part of Crete, in Kissamos port.

The main ports in Greece that ferries come into are Heraklion, Chania, Rethymno, Sitia, and Kastelli-Kassamos. Since there are no roads along the southwest coast there is a ferry line, with connections between Paleochora, Sougia, Agia Roumeli, Loutro and Hora Sfakion (Sfakia). There is also a connection with the islet of Gavdos, Europe's southernmost point (Cape Tripiti).

Talk

 * Please see this section at the country level for a full discussion

All Cretans speak what is called Modern Greek. Formal Classical Greek is still spoken in churches. Since Cretans are quite religious, many know at least some Classical Greek.

There is a distinctive Cretan dialect, that is much like Modern Greek, but with a number of differences. Most native Cretans will know this dialect, and older people (especially is small mountain villages) will still speak it. An example is the word for "no." It is oxi (όχι), pronounced "ohi" in Modern Greek. In the Cretan dialect, it is simply "oy."

You will have little trouble if you only speak English, as the majority of the people speak at least some. A large number of people, especially in the tourist industry, are quite fluent. The education on the island is excellent, and English is taught from the first grade. However, it is a good idea to learn at least a few basic phrases, so you can greet people in their own language. Many people will consider it rude if you march into a shop and simply ask if they speak English, and might get you a firm "no," even if the person does speak English. An effort to say good day in Greek first, will break the ice.

Many Cretans speak other languages because of being in the merchant marine, living or studying in other countries, or simply spending a great deal of time speaking with English-speaking visitors. The island welcomes a large number of tourists from around the world, especially northern Europe, and many in the tourist industry speak other European languages. The menus in tavernas that cater to tourists are usually in several languages: Russian, French, Italian, English and German. Certain areas are more popular with particular nationalities, and there the people in the tourist industry are apt to be proficient in that language.

See
The types of sights and sites described below can be found all over the island. Even if you are far from the most famous sites, chances are you will find an example near you. Just ask or consult a map.

 * Archeological sites, primarily ancient Minoan palaces and settlements, including Knossos, Phaistos, Gortyn, Malia, and Gournia.
 * Monasteries and convents. As true throughout Greece, the Cretan monastic tradition is strong. There are hundreds of monasteries and convents on the island, and most are open to visitors.
 * Churches. There are even more churches on Crete than monasteries. Even small villages will have a main church or two and several chapels. Many of the churches are open to visitors, especially the more historic ones in cities like Chania, Rethymnon, and Heraklion.
 * Architecture. Because of invasion and occupation over centuries, there is varied architecture to admire, including Venetian fortresses and castles, Byzantine churches, Roman aqueducts, and Turkish villas and baths. Examples can be found all over the island, but are primarily concentrated in and around the main port cities.
 * Scenery. The scenery of this mountainous island is quite varied. The high mountains that stretch across the interior from east to west have blessed Crete with scenic valleys, dramatic gorges like the Gorge of Samaria, thousands of caves, rivers and lakes. The east end of the island is semi-arid, and the western end is more lush with forests. All of this scenery can be seen in a good day's drive.
 * Beaches. There are beautiful beaches all around the island, such as Agios Pavlos, Balos, Vai on the far eastern tip that has the largest palm (Cretan date palms) forest in Europe, uninhabited Chrysi Island off the coast of Ierapetra, which boasts the largest natural-growth Lebanese cedar forest in Europe, and the red sand beach of Matala made famous by the hippies who resided in caves here in the 1960s and 70s (and by the 1971 Joni Mitchell song "Carey"). You can also find official Nudist-Beaches, which is rare on other islands in Greece.
 * Traditional villages. Head off the beaten path to discover traditional villages where life goes on much as it did hundreds of years ago.

Do

 * Visit the two "must-see" sites of the island - the Minoan Palace of Knossos outside Heraklion and Spinalonga Island accessible from Agios Nikolaos, Elounda, and Plaka.
 * Visit some of the most important museums. There are well-respected archeological museums in the major port cities, with the most famous in Heraklion. Chania has an excellent art museum and nautical museum.
 * Learn about the traditional agricultural lifestyle of the island. Some farms welcome visitors, and there are many museums of rural life. You will find these as you travel around the island, and they include large museums like Lychnostatis in Hersonnisos and houses that have been lovingly restored, like the museum in the small village of Vrahasi.
 * Witness grape and olive harvesting. Grapes and olives are two of the most important agricultural products of Crete. Depending on grape variety and altitude, grapes are harvested from the beginning of August to October. In October or November, you may be lucky enough to be invited to a rakazani, an event held at a raki distillery to mark the production of the season's first raki and accompanied by music, barbecue and plenty of drinking. Olives are harvested from October through January. If you are driving by during a harvest, stop and show interest, and you will be treated to a demonstration, even if the harvesters speak no English. There are olive oil factories all over Crete. During harvest time, stop in to see how the olives are transformed into liquid gold.
 * Attend festivals and celebrations. The Cretans know how to celebrate, and there are festivals occurring throughout the year. Many of these are religious in nature, but there is almost always eating, drinking, music and dancing after the religious observations.
 * Hike and walk the mountains and gorges. While the hike through the Samaria Gorge is strenuous and can take up to 7 hours, there are other gorges more accessible and easier to navigate.

Eat

Crete is famous for its tasty and healthy cuisine. The Cretan Diet, which is also called the "Mediterranean Diet," has been attributed with great health benefits and nutritional value. Studies have attributed this diet to the health and longevity of the people, as well as the lack of cancers and heart disease. This healthy diet had relied heavily on fresh vegetables, fruits, nuts, and pulses in season and fish. Meat was usually served only once a week or on special occasions like weddings and festivals. Now, Cretans eat meat fairly regularly as well as processed foods and sweet confections. Today, cancer and heart disease are not uncommon, although people remain relatively healthy and long-lived.

Restaurants & dining establishments
Until the tourist boom that began in the 1970s and 80s, there were primarily only two types of dining establishments, the traditional taverna and kafeneion (coffee shop). Full meals were served in tavernas, and kafeneions offered primarily coffee, drinks, and traditional snacks. There were also street food vendors who prepared gyros, pizzas and other regional snacks. Today, all of these are still prevalent. However, in cities and large towns, you will now find a variety of dining establishments, including international restaurants (Indian, Mexican, Chinese, steak houses, English fish & chips shops, etc.) and even fast food franchises like Subway, McDonalds and local firms. Some towns that cater mainly to tourists will have a variety of these that are generally open only during the tourist season.

For most tourists and Cretans, the preferred cuisine is still that found in traditional tavernas and kafeneions, and you will find these lining village squares in the interior and along the sea in coastal settlements. Most dishes are fresh from that day. The menu is only for tourists, Cretans ask the waiter for specialities, and have a look in the kitchen or in a "vitrine," a glass display case. During the warmer months, dining is usually outside under umbrellas, pergolas and trees.

Dining out has always been a social occasion for Cretans, who will gather in groups for a meal that often lasts two or more hours. The period after lunch (from about 14:00 to 15:00 until about 17:00) is reserved for resting and napping. More work will occur until 20:00 or so, and the evening meal is usually after that, lasting until late at night. However, establishments that cater to tourists will remain open throughout the day and evening.

Olives & olive oil
The island of Crete is covered with olive trees. Virtually every family has at least some trees. The olive harvest season occurs in November and December, and every single member of the family helps with the harvest. Most villages have an olive pressing factory, and some have very old presses with huge stone wheels that have been preserved for cultural value. Today's olive press factories are modern, but it is still possible to visit one during the season to see the liquid gold being produced.

Olive oil is used in copious amounts for cooking and in salads, although most restaurants use sunflower or similar oil for cooking fried foods like French fried potatoes.

Olives themselves are commonly served as mezes (appetizers) with raki, ouzo, wine or beer. They are an ingredient in many salads, and an olive paste is often served with bread.

Bread
There are many varieties of bread, which are made fresh daily. Most Cretans would not dream of having a meal without bread, and it is offered at virtually all meals. It is usually a loaf of white bread that is served with olive oil and used to mop up sauces.

Honey & yoghurt
There are also bee hives all over Crete, and many families make their own honey. Yoghurt, much thicker and creamier than commercial yoghurt in other parts of the world, is often served as dessert with honey drizzled on it.

Cheese
Feta cheese is produced and used extensively in Crete as it is elsewhere in Greece. It is also an ingredient in the traditional Cretan "dakos," a hard bread rusk, soaked with olive oil and topped with crumbled feta, chopped tomatoes and olives. It is also served in bite sized portions drizzled with a bit of olive oil and served as one or more mezes.

You will also find a very good variety of delicious locally produced Cretan cheeses, such as:
 * Graviera: (Greek: Γραβιέρα) The standard hard cheese; there are many types and tastes. Taste before buying, as early cheese (cut before mature) will have a spicy taste, while a mature one will be salty and milk-sweet.
 * Myzithra: (Greek: Μυζίθρα) A fresh cheese made of ewe's milk. It is sometimes made of goat's milk (in which case it is called "katsikisia") or mixed milk. A good goat myzithra will taste like expensive French "chèvre frais."
 * Anthotiros: (Greek: Ανθότυρος) from the words "anthos" (flower) and "tiros" (cheese) it is a very mild, soft spring cheese made when the sheep pastures are still full of flowers. The closest popular cheese is the Italian mascarpone as they are both high in fat and are both creamy in texture (unlike mozzarella which is high in protein and chewy in texture).

Meat & fish
Lamb, chicken, pork, rabbit and goat are the traditional meats. Rocky, mountainous Crete (like southern Italy) is not good beef pastureland, so beef is not used as much. However, beef is served as an ingredient in many traditional dishes. Snails gathered wild and cooked in various ways comprise one of the most traditional and affordable dishes of Crete. Smoked meats like ham (apaki) and sausages (loukaniko) are also traditional, as is souvlaki (seasoned pork meat, lamb, chicken or fish on skewers). Almost all tavernas will offer "meat in the oven" on Sundays; this is lamb, pork or chicken cooked slowly in a wood oven with potatoes and/or onions or other vegetables. Traditional "casserole" dishes minced lamb or beef include pastitsio and mousaka. Stifado, is a thick beef stew made with tomatoes and onions. All tavernas will list these traditional dishes, but they are labor-intensive and not all will always be available.

Fresh fish becomes more and more rare, and is expensive, priced by its weight. Restaurants and tavernas by law must advise if the fish that they offer is fresh or frozen. Thus, always ask your waiter to show you the fish and weigh it in front of you before you order.

Side dishes
Salads and vegetables
 * Dakos Cretan rusk with tomato, feta cheese, olives, oregano and olive oil),
 * Horta boiled wild greens with olive oil and lemon juice).
 * Xoriatiki Known as the Greek Salad
 * Cretan Salad A twist on Greek salad with hard boiled eggs and warm boiled potatoes,
 * Salata Marouli Romaine Lettuce Salad
 * Lahano Salata A traditionally tart cabbage salad are other types of Cretan salads.
 * Fava is a (usually) warm dish of boiled and mashed chickpeas served with olive oil and lemon.

Soups
 * Kotosoupa A chicken based soup with a lemon sauce
 * Fakkes Tomato soup in a lentil base
 * Fasolatha A hearty bean soup in a tomato base
 * Nisiotiki A hearty seafood soup

Common appetisers
 * Tsatziki Famous cucumber dip that can go well with almost anything
 * Taramosalata Cod roe-based dip
 * Kalamari Deep fried squid
 * Skorthalia Greek garlic mashed potatoes
 * Gigantes Butter beans in a tomato sauce (can be spicy or not)

Common main dishes

 * Bifteki Greek hamburger patties
 * Souvlaki Sticks of meat served in or without a pita bread
 * Fricasse Lamb and garden beans in a creamy lemon sauce
 * Pilafi Greek style rice
 * Psari A way to prepare Black Grouper or other types of fish
 * Moussaka Famous eggplant casserole

Common desserts

 * Fruit in season.
 * Yoghurt drizzled with honey.
 * Bougatsa, a custard filled pastry made with phyllo.
 * Kaitifi and Baklava
 * Cakes - Traditional cakes are not too sweet, but Cretans have developed a sweet tooth and there are many bakeries specializing in various confections.
 * Ice cream is served everywhere during the warmer months

Cretan fruits
In Crete, olives are the prevailing fruit grown almost anywhere on the island, except areas of very extreme altitude. Citrus, such as lemons, oranges, mandarins and even grapefruit or limes can also be grown, though they are way too rare. Crete also grows tropical or extremely exotic fruits, such as avocados and bananas. Once Crete was Greece's only banana supplier, however, after imports were legalized it nearly went extinct. The only remaining "banana villages" are Arvi and Malia in Heraklion, Ierapetra in Lasithi and Sfakaki in Rethymno. On the northern they're primarily grown in Greenhouses, while in the hotter south they are grown outdoors. They're small and have a dry flower on their tip. A large bunch will be present on stores along with a knife where you can cut as much as you want. Date palms and coffee also thrives, though not commercially grown. Carob pods-contrary to popular belief-are edible and is very popular.

Drink
If you are in Crete during the dry summer, you will want to drink plenty of water; however, if you are an oenophile, don't neglect wine. The Cretan earth produces some of best wines from local grape varieties (mantilari, kotsifali, etc.), and the famous tsikoudia or raki (a non aniseed spirit, written ρακή, and pronounced rhakee). Retsina (Greek: Ρετσίνα) is a Greek white (or rosé) resinated wine, which has been made for at least 2,000 years. Its unique flavor is said to have originated from the practice of sealing wine vessels, particularly amphorae, with Aleppo Pine resin in ancient times. It is an acquired taste, but well worth acquiring.

Types of lodging
There are hundreds of various types of lodging possibilities on the island; a few representative properties are listed. Credit cards are generally accepted at most mainstream properties. Discounts may be offered for cash. Some private homes/villas may have a PayPal or similar method of payment. Very small hotels and "rent rooms" may accept only cash. Almost all properties can assist with sightseeing, tours, and rental cars.

Aparthotels
There is a plethora of these types of accommodation, which usually have cooking facilities in the rooms/suites, a small restaurant/bar (breakfast often included), laundry facilities, swimming pool and free WiFi.

Hotels
These range from simple two-star to lavish five-star properties and all-inclusive resorts. There are city hotels, business hotels, and beach resort hotels. Even a you find in Crete what is very rare in Greece.

Villas, private homes & rooms
There are numerous villas and private homes available around the island, ranging from small one-bedroom "cottages" to lavish multi-bedroom villas. Some are offered privately by owners, and some are developments of two, four, or more detached villas. There are "Rent Room" signs just about everywhere you go; often just simple rooms for sleeping, although some will have basic cooking facilities. Keep in mind that most villas and holiday homes should be registered and get a licence (abbrev. MHTE) from the Greek National Tourist Organisation (also known as EOT in Greek). That practically means that they keep some quality standards and regulations and are officially approved by the Greek authorities.

Dangers & warnings
There is little crime on the island, although the incidence of burglary and petty theft has risen since the economic crisis. Use commonsense precautions at ATMs and with the storage of valuables; use the safe in your hotel room and do not leave valuables in plain sight in a car.

Be careful at night in party towns like Malia, where nightclub revelry (often drunken) continues until dawn. The summer of 2013 saw a number of gang and rival-related incidents, resulting in fights and even one murder. The summer of 2013 also saw a reported increase in sexual assaults often involving young women too inebriated to protect themselves. Use commonsense precautions around alcohol, and go to clubs in groups of friends.

Traditional Cretan wedding parties and some festivals do include gun shots into the air, and these become stray bullets with the potential for both injury and even death upon landing in the vicinity.

Travellers with physical disabilities
Since entering the European Union, there have been efforts to make access for the disabled easier. However, a combination of factors has made this far from comprehensive. The major factors are the topography of the island, the nature of its most important sites, and the economy. Many hotels and other types of accommodations are in historic buildings, without elevators and often with many stairs to various facilities. This is especially true in small villages, and in the Old Town sections of cities. Getting into most public establishments (and to the toilet, once you're in there) usually means stairs.

Historic sites like the ancient ruins of Knossos will be very difficult to fully explore for wheelchair users or those that have difficulty walking, although many of them (including Knossos) have significant sections that can be explored to create a rewarding experience. The Old Towns of cities (like Chania) and small mountain villages are hilly, often with steps from one area to another. Nonetheless, there are still places in most of these that can be explored. A person in a wheelchair or one with walking difficulties will not be able to see everything, but they can still see a rewarding amount of things.

title: Crete


text:
Crete Senese

The 'Crete senese' (Literally “Senese clays”) refers to the residual sediment left from the Pliocene era. The crete can look alpine in areas of steep elevation or in the rolling hills where crops are cultivated and after the earth has been turned over post-harvest, the light grey color of the fields recalls the light grey of the lunar surface.

Get in
You can take the train from Siena or Grosseto.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Crete Senese


text:
Crewe (England)

Crewe is a medium-sized town in South Cheshire. It boasts friendly people, inexpensive hotels and eateries. It is famed for its railway connections and also as the home of Rolls Royce, though the factory is now operated by Bentley Motors.

Understand
Crewe is perhaps best known as a large railway junction and home to Crewe Works; for many years, it was a major railway engineering facility for manufacturing and overhauling locomotives, but now much reduced in size. From 1946 until 2002, it was also the home of Rolls-Royce motor car production. The Pyms Lane factory on the west of the town now exclusively produces Bentley motor cars.

The local football team is Crewe Alexandra F.C., the only team in the country with this unusual suffix.

 * Local information from the town council

By rail
The main West Coast Mainline (London Euston to Glasgow Central) runs through the famous Crewe railway station. The town was built around this important junction when the railway arrived in the 1830s. Around 10,000 people per day pass through Crewe station.

By road
The M6 motorway is close by. Use junction 16 or 17 to get to Crewe.

Crewe is 158 miles (254 km) northwest of London, 28 miles (45 km) south of Manchester city centre, and 31 miles (50 km) southeast of Liverpool city centre.

Get around
Crewe is a relatively small and compact town so most attractions and amenities are within walking distance.

Do

 * Football:
 * Football:

Buy
Most British chain stores have outlets here. There are also covered and outdoor markets, selling local produce and many other things.

Eat
There are a few cafes in the Town Centre, such as Rimini's and Rhode Island Coffee.

Drink
Crewe has a good pub scene. The Crown and The Borough Arms offer many real ales. If waiting for a train, try the British Lion (locally known as The Pig) on Nantwich Road, about 500 yards away.

Also on Nantwich Road is the Beer Dock, which has quickly become very popular, selling a wide variety of international beers and ales. There are plans for expansion into the town centre.

Clubbers should try Nantwich Road area on Friday and Saturday nights.

Connect
Crewe has 4G from all UK carriers. As of May 2022, 5G has not reached town.

Go next

 * Chester
 * Nantwich
 * Middlewich
 * Crewe (Virginia)

title: Crewe (England)


text:
Crianlarich

Crianlarich is a village in Stirlingshire, 6 miles northeast of the head of Loch Lomond. It bills itself as "the gateway to the Highlands" but it's more like halfway down the hall, because it's distinctly Highland in nature. It's a tiny place (the population in 2001 was 185) but an important junction: routes through here date back to General Wade's 18th century military roads, and the railway divides for Oban or Fort William. It's also the midpoint of the West Highland Way long distance walking trail. Most visitors are just making a rest stop. The main reason to stay longer is the choice of nearby mountains, easily climbed.

There isn't a tourist information centre in Crianlarich, but the Scottish Tourist Board can be contacted online or on 0845 225 5121.

Get in
By road, have at least half a tank of fuel before leaving the lowlands - filling stations here are sparse and pricey. The north-south highway is A82 from Glasgow along the west bank of Loch Lomond then over the hill to Crianlarich, then on north over Rannoch Moor to Glencoe and Fort William. The east-west highway is A85 from Perth via Crieff to Lochearnhead, then over the hill into Glen Dochart and Crianlarich. Here it merges with the A82 north as far as Tyndrum then strikes out west towards Oban.

By bus: Citylink Buses 914/915/916/975 run 6 times a day from Glasgow Buchanan station via A82, taking 1 hr 45 min to Crianlarich. They continue either to Oban, or to Glencoe, Fort William, Invergarry, Kyle of Lochalsh and Portree on the Isle of Skye. The bus stop is at the Crianlarich Hotel. Bus 978 runs once a day from Edinburgh and takes 2 hr 50 min via the airport, Grangemouth, Stirling, Doune and Callander, and continues to Oban. Otherwise change at Glasgow, for a travel time of 4 hours.

McGills Bus 160 / S60 runs from Stirling twice, on the first and third Saturday of each month. It takes 90 min via Callander, Lochearnhead and Killin, and continues to Tyndrum.

By train: Scotrail trains run four times a day from Glasgow Queen Street via Dumbarton, Helensburgh and Arrochar, taking two hours to Crianlarich where they divide. One portion is for Oban, the other for Fort William and Mallaig - both stop at Tyndrum the next village north but at different stations.

The Caledonian Highland Sleeper to Fort William leaves London Euston Su-F around 9:30PM to reach Crianlarich shortly after 7AM. The southbound train leaves around 1PM to reach Euston towards 8AM. Or you can take the Lowland Sleeper from Euston near midnight to arrive Glasgow Queen Street at 7:20AM, then a daytime train arriving around 11:30AM. Returning south you need to leave Crianlarich around 7:30PM to reach Queen Street by 9:30PM and wait two hours for the southbound sleeper, reaching Euston by 07:00; the later train doesn't connect.

is just an island platform with no ticket office or machines; buy on board if your journey starts from here. There are toilets and a waiting room, and you might even find the tea-room open. Access to the platform is by a subway with no step-free route.

Get around
The village is small, but you need wheels to reach the mountain trails.

Taxi: Crianlarich Cars only operate Apr-Oct: M-F 8AM-8PM, Sa Su 9AM-7PM, shorter hours in winter. You need to pre-book on +44 778 7788 360.

See

 * It's gorgeous in late autumn and late spring when the snowy hilltops glisten above rabbit-coloured glens.

Do

 * is a Munro at 1174 m / 3842 ft. Common approaches are from Benmore Farm off A85 and straight up the steep ridge; or follow the burn of Allt Coire Chaorach then head for the ridge of Sròn nam Fòirsairean once clear of the forest. It's often combined with the Munro of Stob Binnein (1165 m).
 * Other Munros in this area are Cruach Ardrain (1046 m), Beinn Tulaichean (946 m), An Casteal (996 m), Beinn a' Chroin (941 m) and Beinn Chabhair (932 m).

 * West Highland Way is a long-distance trail between Milngavie and Fort William. The local section leads from Inverarnan (mile 40) to Crianlarich (mile 46, about the midpoint) then north to Tyndrum (mile 52).
 * Golf: Killin GC at the head of Loch Tay is nine holes.
 * Killin Music Festival is next held 20-22 June 2025, there's no event in 2024.
 * Killin Highland Games are held in Breadalbane Park in Killin, with the next on W 7 Aug 2024.

Buy

 * No fuel here! The nearest filling stations are five miles north at Tyndrum (where A82 and A85 diverge) or ten miles east on A85 at the junction for Killin and Loch Tay.
 * No fuel here! The nearest filling stations are five miles north at Tyndrum (where A82 and A85 diverge) or ten miles east on A85 at the junction for Killin and Loch Tay.

Eat

Drink

 * Crianlarich Hotel: see Sleep. Bar open year round, walkers and outdoor folk welcome. Roaring log fires in winter.
 * Ben More Lodge: see Sleep. Traditional pub with beer from Oban Ales, Belhaven and others, and good range of malt whiskies.

Sleep

 * Glenbruar B&B is opposite Crianlarich Hotel.
 * Tyndrum the next village north has a dozen or so B&Bs. Arriving by train, Tyndrum Lower is slightly nearer the accommodation, so be in the Oban-bound portion.
 * Tyndrum the next village north has a dozen or so B&Bs. Arriving by train, Tyndrum Lower is slightly nearer the accommodation, so be in the Oban-bound portion.
 * Tyndrum the next village north has a dozen or so B&Bs. Arriving by train, Tyndrum Lower is slightly nearer the accommodation, so be in the Oban-bound portion.
 * Tyndrum the next village north has a dozen or so B&Bs. Arriving by train, Tyndrum Lower is slightly nearer the accommodation, so be in the Oban-bound portion.
 * Tyndrum the next village north has a dozen or so B&Bs. Arriving by train, Tyndrum Lower is slightly nearer the accommodation, so be in the Oban-bound portion.
 * Tyndrum the next village north has a dozen or so B&Bs. Arriving by train, Tyndrum Lower is slightly nearer the accommodation, so be in the Oban-bound portion.
 * Tyndrum the next village north has a dozen or so B&Bs. Arriving by train, Tyndrum Lower is slightly nearer the accommodation, so be in the Oban-bound portion.
 * Tyndrum the next village north has a dozen or so B&Bs. Arriving by train, Tyndrum Lower is slightly nearer the accommodation, so be in the Oban-bound portion.

Connect
As of March 2024, Crianlarich and the A82 from Loch Lomond have 4G with all UK carriers, but the signal is patchy further north on A82 or east on A85. Don't plan on getting any signal on the mountains. 5G has not reached this area.

Go next

 * Loch Lomond is easily reached on A82 south towards Glasgow, but this runs along the west bank and is always busy with traffic. There's no direct road to the more peaceful, scenic east bank: you have to circle around via A85 to Lochearnhead and Callander before approaching from the east.
 * Rannoch Moor is similarly skirted by A82 north to Glencoe. But to get in properly, you have to swing away east along Loch Tay then Bridge of Tummel before starting up the long valley.
 * Loch Tay is reached by A85 east, then branch off through the village of Killin. Ben Lawers is the big climb on the north bank.
 * Head west to Oban for ferries to several Hebridean islands - Mull is the most popular - but for Skye you go north past Fort William to cross via the bridge.

title: Crianlarich


text:
Crișana

Crișana is a region in western Romania. It consists of the counties of Arad, Bihor and Sălaj.

By plane

See

Near Ciucea, you can find several caves, and the Ponor Fortresses, which are one of the biggest karstic complexes in Romania.

Around Arad, there are two medieval monasteries and a fortress.

title: Crișana


text:
Criccieth

Criccieth (Welsh: Cricieth) is a town in Gwynedd. It is one of the more easterly towns on the south coast of Llŷn and overlooks Tremadog Bay. It is associated with the one time PM of the UK, David Lloyd George, who grew up in the nearby village of Llanystumdwy.

By bus

 * 3 Arriva: Pwllheli – Criccieth – Porthmadog
 * 1 Express Motors: Bangor – Caernarfon – Criccieth – Porthmadog

By car
Criccieth is on the A497 between from Porthmadog to Pwllheli. From Caernarfon take the A487 then the B4411.

Eat
Some outstanding ice cream is available here.

Go next

 * Pwllheli
 * Porthmadog

title: Criccieth


text:
Cricklade

Cricklade is a beautiful town on the edge of the Cotswolds in Wiltshire.

Understand
Cricklade is a small town of about 4,000 people in north Wiltshire, very close to the border with Gloucestershire. It is roughly halfway between Swindon and Cirencester.

Cricklade was originally settled before the Roman occupation of Britain, and the town is a well preserved Saxon new town.

The North Meadow has roughly 90% of the UK's snake's head fritillary flowers. Inhabitants of the Hundred and Borough of Cricklade have rights to graze cattle and horses on the North Meadow, with is overseen by a manorial court established in the 14th century.

Cricklade is also the first town that the River Thames passes through on its journey from source to sea.

See

 * River Thames - Cricklade is the first town that the River Thames passes through after it rises a few miles upstream. It's quite a lot smaller here than in London!
 * River Thames - Cricklade is the first town that the River Thames passes through after it rises a few miles upstream. It's quite a lot smaller here than in London!
 * River Thames - Cricklade is the first town that the River Thames passes through after it rises a few miles upstream. It's quite a lot smaller here than in London!

Eat
There are many good pubs in Cricklade. There are also several Indian restaurants, a Turkish kebab shop, a Chinese, a Thai.

Go next

 * Cirencester
 * Malmesbury
 * Swindon

title: Cricklade


text:
Crieff

Crieff is a town in Perth and Kinross on the edge of the Scottish Highlands, with a population in 2021 of 7330. It's a well-preserved Victorian resort town, along with Comrie to the west. The main reason to visit is to see the terraced gardens of Drummond Castle.

Get in
 Perth is the most convenient railway station, with frequent long-distance trains and onward transport. With a bicycle you could get off at Gleneagles near Auchterarder, or at Dunblane.

Citylink Bus 913 runs May-Sept once M-F from Edinburgh, taking 1 hr 50 min via Kinross and Broxden P&R (for Perth). It continues to Comrie, Lochearnhead, Crianlarich, Tyndrum, Glencoe, Ballachulish and Fort William.

Stagecoach Perth Bus 15 runs from Perth along A85 to Crieff, taking 50 min, and continuing to Comrie and Dalginross. It runs hourly M-Sa and every couple of hours Sunday.

Bus 15A runs every couple of hours from Stirling, taking an hour via Bridge of Allan, Dunblane, Braco and Muthill.

Docherty's Bus 18 meanders from Auchterarder via Tullibardine and Muthill to Crieff, taking 25 min. There's three Tu-F and one on Monday.

The main bus stop in Crieff is on High St by McColl's newsagent.

By car follow A9 past Stirling and branch north on A822 at Braco, or from the east take A85 from Perth. If it's a fine day, A823 is a scenic route from Dunfermline over Knock Hill to Yetts of Muckart, then through Glen Devon and Gleneagles.

Get around
You can reach the castle and the distillery on foot. You need wheels to reach the loch in Glen Turret.

Taxis in town are A2B (+44 7708 010432), Brown's Hire (+44 7970 598870) and Crieff Taxis (+44 1764 654620).

See

 * is a ruin of a 15th century parish church within the graveyard of the present church. The 11th-century tower used to be free-standing. There are many other listed buildings in the village, which is pronounced MOOTH-ull.
 * is a small ring of stones of uncertain date, off B8062 just west of Pow Water. Half the fun is finding it, as the stones are low and often obscured by crops.
 * is an attractive little village 7 miles west of Crieff on A85. It sits on the Highland boundary fault line and is the most tremor-prone place in Britain, but they're obviously minor as so many historic buildings stand unscathed. These include the White Church, the grandiose Gothic Parish Church, and a Rennie Mackintosh shop with a turret on the main street. Glen Lednock to the north is a scenic walk, with the river cascading over "The De'il's Cauldron". On B827 a mile south of the village, Cultybraggan Camp is a collection of Nissen huts that once housed the most fervent Nazi POWs, and later became a secret bunker for a post-nuclear command centre.
 * is an attractive little village 7 miles west of Crieff on A85. It sits on the Highland boundary fault line and is the most tremor-prone place in Britain, but they're obviously minor as so many historic buildings stand unscathed. These include the White Church, the grandiose Gothic Parish Church, and a Rennie Mackintosh shop with a turret on the main street. Glen Lednock to the north is a scenic walk, with the river cascading over "The De'il's Cauldron". On B827 a mile south of the village, Cultybraggan Camp is a collection of Nissen huts that once housed the most fervent Nazi POWs, and later became a secret bunker for a post-nuclear command centre.

Do

 * Lady Mary's Walk is a genteel scenic stroll along the River Earn for a mile or so west of town.
 * is an attractive valley north of Crieff. You can drive up the lane as far as the reservoir dam, which creates the loch. A track leads up the glen and onto a ridge, from where you can reach the top of Ben Chonzie, a Munro of 931 m (3054 ft).
 * Golf: Gleneagles Hotel is the top venue, see Sleep. There are three championship courses (King's, Queen's and Centenary) plus the 9-hole par-3 Wee Course.
 * Crieff GC is at the north end of town. The Ferntower course is 6091 yards, par 71. The Dornock is nine holes, so two circuits make 6540 yards, par 64.
 * Comrie GC in that village is nine holes. Twice around off white tees is 5660 yards, par 70.
 * Muthill GC by the castle is 4673 yards, par 66.
 * Muthill GC by the castle is 4673 yards, par 66.

 * Skydive at, which has tandem and beginner courses plus regular jumps for the experienced. Spectators welcome (no pets or alcohol) though you don't see much until the canopies approach for landing. Strathallan Castle opposite the airfield is a private residence and you can't visit.
 * Crieff Highland Gathering is held in mid-August on Market Park, with the next on Su 18 Aug 2024.
 * Blackford Highland Games (a few miles south) are in late May, with the next on Sa 25 May 2024.
 * Balquhidder, Lochearnhead and Strathtyre Highland Games are next held on Sa 20 July 2024 in the park at Lochearnhead, west on A85.

Buy

 * Stores in Crieff are the Co-op (daily 6AM-10PM) and Morrisons (daily 6AM-6PM).

Eat

 * High Street other sit-in choices are Thai Esan, KB's Italian, Craobh, G's Bistro and Delivino.
 * Comrie has Deil's Cauldron, plus Royal Hotel serves non-residents.
 * Comrie has Deil's Cauldron, plus Royal Hotel serves non-residents.

Drink

 * Bars along Crieff main street are Pretoria, The Quaich and The Square. Station Bar is further south along King St.
 * Tower Gastro Pub at 81 East High St has a restaurant and rooms.

Sleep

 * B&Bs line the main street A85 and Burrell St A823, and include Alpine Cottage, Lovat House, Comely Bank, Leven House, The Tower, Fir Tree, Merlindale and Murraypark.
 * Comrie has Comrie Hotel and Royal Hotel.
 * Splurge at
 * Comrie has Comrie Hotel and Royal Hotel.
 * Splurge at
 * Splurge at

Connect
As of April 2024, Crieff, Comrie and their approach roads have 4G from EE and Vodafone, but only a patchy signal from O2 or Three. 5G has reached the A9 but not the Crieff area.

Go next

 * To the east, Perth is the nearest big town.
 * West the A85 leads alongside Loch Earn then towards Loch Tay, Crianlarich and Tyndrum. Stay on it for Oban, or take A82 north to Glencoe and Fort William.
 * Southwest brings you to Dunblane, Stirling and the road to Glasgow.
 * North the A822 winds through the hills towards Aberfeldy and Dunkeld.

title: Crieff


text:
Crimea

Crimea (Russian: Крым, Ukrainian: Крим, Crimean Tatar: Qırım, Къырым) is a peninsula jutting into the Black Sea south of Ukraine. Long known for its idyllic and luxurious beach resorts, it was once a playground for the Imperial Russian and Soviet elites.

Regions

 * The Coastal Beach Cities — The coastal beach cities are very hospitable to tourists if you speak Russian or Ukrainian. Accommodation is plentiful and prices range widely, depending on location and accommodation type. Despite there being nothing particularly cheap listed online, touts offering cheap rooms and apartments are a good way to find budget accommodation. Also look for houses advertising accommodation: they will usually have a large white sign stuck on the door that has about three words written in Cyrillic (unfortunately wording varies). During summer expect the beaches to be packed with mostly Russian tourists. Behind the beaches the Coastal Mountains tower up to 1,500 m above the towns.
 * The Coastal Mountains — The mountain area that stretches from the coast to about 70 km inland contains some very pristine untouched nature. The mountains are formed by ragged limestone that has been shaped into high peaks with canyons, cliffs and valleys transecting them in all directions.  Expect a great adventure if you want to go hiking here, but also expect to rough it. Camping sites are few and far between so you'll probably have to just find one of the many secluded fields to camp in.  The area has numerous caves as well as small lakes. There are almost no marked trails
 * The Sea of Azov and Kerch — Gateway to Russia across the Kerch Strait.
 * The Inland Plains — Fairly flat farm land like much of the rest of Ukraine and Western Russia. Looks nice while passing through it by train.

Cities

 * — The capital. The train station is very clean and beautiful. For the most part this is a place of transit to the coast or to the mountains. It is famous for having the world's longest trolley bus service of 86 km.
 * — The first beach city on the way to Yalta from the west, this city does not have much in it except old boat docks that have been transformed into beaches.
 * — A former Crimean capital, in a canyon between Simferopol and Sevastopol, with a wealth of interesting sites to see including the Crimean Tatar Khan's palace, the cave cities (Kachi-Kalion, Chufut-Kale, Eski-Kermen, Shuldan) and the Armenian monastery, built in a cave.
 * — Feodosiya is 100 km to the east of Simferopol. From the outskirts it looks like an urban industrial disaster but once past the factories it has a very nice old town. Very similar to Odesa in architecture but just on a smaller scale. Home to the Ayvazovsky Picture Gallery.
 * — former Panticapaeum, capital to the Kingdom of Pontus. Its archeological site features ruins from the 5th century BC up to the 3rd century AD. The last stop before reaching the eastern edge of the Crimea and heading across the straits into the rest of Russia.
 * — The headquarters of the Russian Black Sea Fleet. Given the title 'Hero City' for its resistance to the Nazis during World War II. Numerous monuments to the past's military exploits. Nice shops.
 * — The headquarters of the Russian Black Sea Fleet. Given the title 'Hero City' for its resistance to the Nazis during World War II. Numerous monuments to the past's military exploits. Nice shops.
 * — The headquarters of the Russian Black Sea Fleet. Given the title 'Hero City' for its resistance to the Nazis during World War II. Numerous monuments to the past's military exploits. Nice shops.
 * — A very beautiful city containing many of the Russian Czar's palaces and other great monuments. Twinned with Margate in England amongst other places. Yalta is a tourist hotspot, which contains a mixture of Soviet hotels and modern high rise apartments. Yalta was once the main holiday destination for many Russians before they were allowed to travel outside the Soviet Bloc.
 * — an ancient city with more than 2500 years of history, named after King Mithridates VI "Eupator" of Pontus, a contemporary of the Roman Empire.

Other destinations

 * — Rocky beaches, home to a number of dachas and the magnificent Vorontsov palace, where Churchill stayed during the Yalta Conference in 1945.
 * — famous for the Crimea War of the 1850s, the infamous Charge of the Light Brigade, and home to a former secret Soviet submarine base.
 * — Located between Feodosiya and Sudak, this small town has a great beach area that has a carnival type environment. It sits below a spectacular wilderness area to the west that you can only visit on a guided tour.
 * — A beautiful coastal city with the remains of a very old Genoan fortress.
 * — Small city near Yalta with the Massandra Palace and the famous winery "Massandra".
 * — Small city near Yalta where the Yalta Conference that divided Europe into spheres of influence was held in the Livadia Palace in 1945.
 * — Small city near Yalta where the Yalta Conference that divided Europe into spheres of influence was held in the Livadia Palace in 1945.

Understand
This region features many landscapes: Crimean steppe (or prairie) to the East and North, Feodosia's sandy beaches, undulating hills of vineyards and fruit trees, castles reminiscent of Bavaria cling to cliffs plunging into the warm sea and there are forested mountain ranges with fabled cave cities to the West.

Crimea observes Moscow Standard Time (MSK).

Media
Ruth Maclennan's film Theodosia  is a good introduction to the place of Crimea in the Russian psyche.

When you get to Crimea you can buy the local guide book Time to Come to Crimea! (in English and Russian) at one of the many small booths on the street.

Weather and water
The weather in Crimea during the summer season is very much Mediterranean. Expect relatively hot weather and lots of thunderstorms that come and go. Hot and very humid at night. In the winter snow can cover the mountains and make the roads almost impassable

The water is fairly warm, although not as warm as the Adriatic, which shares a similar latitude. The water is clean and clear, although also a bit less than the Adriatic.

History
The Crimean peninsula has a strategically dominant location inside the Black Sea — the Sevastopol naval fortress is frequently compared to Gibraltar and Halifax in this context — and has been forever subjected and partially colonized by foreign empires such as Ancient Greece, the Persian Empire, the Roman Empire, the Goths, the Huns, the Bulgars, the Khazars, and the Mongolian Empire, of which the Crimean Khanate was a successor state. Crimea was conquered to the Russian Empire in 1783; the Taurida Oblast was created by a decree of Catherine the Great on 2 February 1784.

In A.D. 988, Kievan Rus king Vladimir the Great, also known as St. Vladimir of Kiev, was baptized at the Byzantine outpost of Chersonesus Taurica, went back to Kiev, baptized his people in the Dnieper River, and thus was born the Russian Orthodox Church. The spot of Vladimir's baptism is marked nowadays by the Vladimir the Great cathedral outside Sevastopol.

During the Crimean War between 1854 and 1856, Britain and France invaded the Crimea to support the Ottoman Empire in a dispute with Russia. During this war, Florence Nightingale more-or-less invented modern nursing, and William Howard Russell, modern war reporting. The most famous battle was at Balaklava, near where the invasion force landed; part of that was the infamous "Charge of the Light Brigade" (Russell's phrase), a nearly suicidal attack of cavalry against cannon. A woolen head garment is named for the town, as is the Balaclava melee, a cavalry training exercise using wooden swords. A historical novel set during this war is Flashman at the Charge.

On 19 February 1954, the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the Soviet Union issued a decree transferring the Crimean Oblast from the Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic to the Ukrainian SSR. This transfer has been described both as a "symbolic gesture", marking the 300th anniversary of Ukraine becoming a part of the Tsardom of Russia, and as Nikita Khruschev's personal gesture toward his favorite republic. With the breakup of the Soviet Union in 1992, Crimea remained part of independent Ukraine, though the Russian Black Sea Fleet continued to be based in Sevastopol, and its population remained predominantly ethnic Russian and largely politically aligned with Russia. After the pro-Russia Ukrainian president Viktor Yanukovych was toppled by pro-European Union protesters in 2014, the peninsula was occupied and annexed by Russia.

Genealogical research
All historical documents, including birth records, for all nationalities (Russians, Tatars, Jews and Germans), are kept in the National Archive in Simferopol.

You may contact them by email at archive@home.cris.net although the best way to receive a response to your email will be to send it in Russian. The archive is open from 08:00 to 17:00 Monday through Friday. Individual access to much of the archive is not permitted, although for USD30 you can pay someone to who works in the archive to do the work for you. Nobody in the archive speaks English so either be prepared to speak Russian or bring along a translator.

The archive is at No. 3 Keckemetckaj, which is the main street running directly east from the train station, in Simferopol (about 1 km).

The archives and its staff are not accustomed to foreigners, so be prepared to explain to the guard at the front desk what it is you want to do.

The Lutheran Church in Simferopol supposedly has a list going back to the early 1800s of all German families who emigrated to Crimea under Catherine the Great, or so it was said at the Archive. This information has not actually been confirmed at the Lutheran Church. For that matter, finding the Lutheran Church, though mentioned in the guide book, is actually a quite difficult task.

The city of Feodosiya has a Jewish Community Centre that is very active in doing research on the Jewish community of Crimea. You may contact them at ruslilya3@mail.ru, they can communicate in basic English (so you can send the email in English) but more than likely the response back will be in Russian.

Talk
The three official languages are:

Russian is the lingua franca, and the overwhelming majority of the local people are, or define themselves as, ethnic Russians. Try to learn a little before you come, even if it's just getting familiar with the Cyrillic alphabet, as few people speak or understand English.

Ukrainian — around 15 percent of the population are ethnic Ukrainians.

Crimean Tatar (of which the Yalıboylu dialect is mutually intelligible with Turkish) is widely spoken by the indigenous Crimean Tatars, who constitute about 12% of the population. Given the mass deportation during Stalin's rule, older Crimean Tatars may also speak Uzbek.

If you don't know Russian or Ukrainian well, you may not be able to tell the two languages apart. Still, given the situation, what language you use may be sensitive.

German was the main foreign language taught to Soviet school children and many people will know a few words.

Some of the street signs in Yalta are in English from the time of the Yalta Conference in 1945.

Get in
Crimea is under the de facto control of the Russian Federation. Any visit will require a Russian visa, and the only feasible way to reach it is via Russia.

Russian immigration and custom agencies operate in the peninsula's ports of entry, and foreign citizens need regular Russian entry visas to visit Crimea.

Since December 2014, it has not been possible to travel from Ukraine to the Crimean peninsula by public transport. Unless you hold a Ukrainian passport, you will need a special permission from the Ukrainian State Migration Service in order to cross the "Ukraine-Crimea" border by foot. You would also need to get through the battlefront between Ukrainian and Russian troops; there are few ceasefires and they tend not to be respected.

To the Ukrainian government, entering Crimea on a Russian visa is illegal entry to Ukrainian territory. If you later try to visit Ukraine and show any evidence of your travel to Crimea, you could be refused entry or arrested and fined. But since there is no special Crimean border control stamps that will be put in foreign citizen's passport if they get to Crimea via the bridge, crossing mainland Ukrainian border anywhere else should be OK.

By land
The Crimean Peninsula is connected to the mainland of Kherson Oblast by two narrow necks of land. The coast is under Russian control, but Ukraine is doing their best to disrupt communications here.

In addition, the Crimean Bridge (or Kerch Bridge) was built in 2018 over the 5-km-wide Kerch strait, to connect the Taman Peninsula in mainland Russia to Crimea. The bridge has repeatedly been attacked by Ukraine.

By train
The railway bridge opened for trains on 23 Dec 2019. A burning train severed the bridge in the 2022 incident and it is unclear whether there are passenger trains over the bridge. There were routes from Saint Petersburg and Moscow to Sevastopol and Simferopol. Travel from Moscow to Simferopol took around 33 hours and from Petersburg to Sevastopol 43 hours. Also it is possible to take a suburban train from Anapa (Krasnodar Krai) to Kerch.

By plane
There is an airport in Simferopol, but since the start of the war in Ukraine, no commercial flights operate to Simferopol. The closest operating airport would be Sochi or Mineralnye Vodi

By bus
Frequent bus service connects Crimea to mainland Russia. The buses operate to various destinations in Krasnodar Krai including Krasnodar, Anapa, Novorossiysk, and Sochi. All buses did cross the Strait of Kerch by the Crimean Bridge from the Taman Peninsula, but may not be able to do, depending on the situation. Passengers should expect disembarkation at the security checkpoints before entering the bridge from each side.

By ferry
Frequent passenger and vehicular ferries operate across the narrow Strait of Kerch, between Kerch's Port Krym and Port Kavkaz on a spit of the Russian mainland. (Schedules and fares in Russian ).

As of April 2014, the one-way passenger ticket is ₽162 for adults and ₽81 for children; transporting a car costs ₽1190-1688. (Ferry info updates for 2014, in Russian) Ferry service is subject to weather conditions and can be interrupted for 1-2 days in a row because of bad weather. Expect queues and long waiting times during high season, especially in the end of August.

Freight services run between several major Crimean ports and the harbors of Krasnodar Krai (Anapa, Novorossiysk, Feodosiya). Most of these ferries will not accept personal cars or individual passengers.

Get around
You can get anywhere in Crimea by mini bus. You can also go by taxi. Prices vary; be prepared to haggle a fare as you will always find someone to do a deal with. Many private citizens also work as pseudo taxi drivers; sometimes it is difficult to tell. Taxis range from modern comfortable cars to 1950s gas-powered Soviet cars!

Frequently while travelling in the country if you look like a foreigner (for example with a backpack) and you are standing on what passes as a 'major' road people will stop and ask if you want a ride – for a price. Fortunately that price is usually quite small to go some very long distances.

The road system of the Crimea is being modernized at a rapid pace. Therefore, the quality of the road surface can be very different. The main regional highways are in good condition (as of June 2021). However, a large number of small roads are still in poor condition. There is a very strict tolerance policy for drinking and driving (0.16 mg of alcohol per liter in exhaled air). Police patrols are frequent as well as roadside checks for documents, but the death toll on the roads remains very bad.

As of June 2021, the construction of the federal highway Tavrida, from Kerch and the Crimean Bridge on the east coast to Simferopol, Bahkchisaray, and Sevastopol on the west coast, is almost finished (work continues on the section between Simferopol and Sevastopol). Many streets, junctions, and local and intercity roads have seen extensive repair and widening work in the past several years.

See

 * The Khan's Palace — The Khan's palace is in the small mountain village of Bahkchisaray half-way between Simferopol and Sevastapol. The Khan's palace was the seat of the Tatar rulers of Crimea dating back to 1443. With the Ottoman conquest of Crimea in 1475 the Khan's became a vassal state of the Ottoman Empire but were left as the rulers. After the Crimean war with the victory of Russia all of the Khan's were made Russian nobility but the capital of Crimea was moved to Simferopol. The palace grounds include impressive gardens, several old mosques including cemeteries, a harem and of course the palace itself. You can take a guided tour of the palace but only in Russian.
 * Chufut Kale Cave City — An hour and a half walk up a beautiful canyon from the town of Bahkchisaray you will find the Chufut Kale cave town dating back to the 6th century. It is high up in the cliffs so the walk is a bit strenuous but not overwhelming. It is a city of what appears to have been several thousand people who built/dug their homes into the limestone rock. The city was abandoned in the 19th century. There are some other cave cities (about 14), completely different as far as size and picturesqueness concerned
 * The Bolshoi Canyon — The Bolshoi Canyon is on the opposite side of the mountain range that Yalta sits below. It will take about an hour and a half to get there by car from Yalta. It can also be reached from Bahkchisaray by hitch hiking or minibus. Bolshoi means 'grand or large' in Russian.  After reaching the entrance to the park you will have to pay a small fee (USD2) to start down the trail.  From there it is about an hour hike into the canyon along a small mountain stream.  You never actually end up getting a perfect view of the canyon as you are also down in the middle of it surrounded by lush vegetation but it is impressive all the same. The trail ends at a small picnic area where a local man is selling awful wine and really good fried food.  There is a small waterfall and a pool where you can do some minor diving/jumping. You can continue further up the stream without the trail but it is a bit more rough going.
 * Caves — There are three caves equipped for easy access: Krasnaya, Mramornaya, Emine-Bayır-Hosar. And there are a lot of undeveloped caves attractive to speleologists.
 * The Swallow's Nest an architectural folly, now an Italian restaurant.
 * Livadia Palace — A former summer palace to the Russian tsars and famous setting for the Yalta Conference.
 * Massandra Palace — Another former Tsarist palace, which looks a bit like a French chateau, once visited by Stalin who declined to stay there as he did not feel very safe.
 * Gurzuf, a small pretty coastal town that retains (perhaps has regained) its old Ottoman characteristics. Close to Yalta off the road to Alushta, its climate is very similar to French Riviera. Gorgeous views and clean warm sea.Indoors of Inkerman Cave Monastery.jpgInkerman Cave Monastery.jpg
 * Inkerman Cave Monastery — A cave monastery in a cliff rising near the mouth of the Black River, in the city of Inkerman, administered as part of the sea port of Sevastopol. It was founded in 1850 on the site of a medieval Byzantine monastery where the relics of St. Clement were supposedly kept before their removal to San Clemente by Saints Cyril and Methodius.
 * Chersonesus — An ancient Greek colony founded in the 6th century BC in the southwestern part of the Crimean Peninsula, known then as Taurida or Taurica. Nicknamed the "Ukrainian Pompeii" and "Russian Troy", the ancient city is on the shore of the Black Sea, at the outskirts of Sevastopol. Locally known as Khersones, the site is part of the National Historical-Archeological Museum Zapovednik. (In Russia and the former Soviet Union, a zapovednik is a protected area which is kept "forever wild" for conservation purposes.)

Do

 * Hiking in Crimea is wonderful. There are very few other backpackers and almost no clearly marked trails (as in posted signs) so you're going to be roughing it. The trails themselves though, appear to be well used. In the mountainous region though you can pretty much pick any two small towns and hike between them and be assured of an adventure.  Campsites are few and far between but there is lots of open space for camping; be environmentally sensitive of course about the place you choose to camp.  For a brief description of a hike see Bahkchisaraj

Buy
The Russian ruble has replaced the Ukrainian hryvnia as the legal currency of Crimea.

Choices are limited for banking. All Ukrainian banks have had to stop operations on the peninsula; as of 2023, Visa and Mastercard are not accepted, and no major Russian banks operate in Crimea, due to the risk of being targeted by international sanctions. It may be possible to withdraw money from Visa card issued by Russian banks.

Sberbank, the Russian state-controlled bank, has stayed out of Crimea but is backing a new Russian-domestic credit card "Pro 100" (pronounced “pro-sto”) which is slowly being introduced. Most often, the only practical means of doing business is with cash.

Eat
Street food can be delicious in Crimea, if somewhat heavy. Definitely try some local Tatar specialties such as chebureki (Russian: чебуреки), from an outdoor stand or a cheburechnaya (Russian: Чебуречная, "chebureki joint"). These are succulent half-moon shaped meat pies, usually filled with lamb or beef (Crimean Tatars, being Muslim, do not eat pork), and deep-fried in aromatic sunflower oil. Samsa are also good, hot pastries filled with mince meat and chopped onions.

Try manti (Russian: манты), which are steamed lamb-filled dumplings, often served with adjika (Russian: аджика), which is a very hot red chilli pepper paste.

Try lyulya-kebab and shashlik (Russian: люля-кебаб and шашлык), which are kebabs and charcoal-grilled skewered meat. If you can find pork shashlik, definitely try them. You will have more success with this in a Russian-run restaurant, as pork is not served in Tatar restaurants.

Find a good Tatar restaurant and try the lagman (Russian: лагман). It's an incredibly rich, thick lamb soup with vegetables and long homemade noodles.

The ice cream sold at the beach includes a simple one called molochnoye (Russian: молочное, "made of milk"). It's white, but it's not vanilla-flavoured. It tastes like sweet milk.

If you see women walking up the beach selling something from buckets, it's probably paklava (Russian: паклава, baklava). This paklava is like nothing you have ever had before. It's thin layers of homemade dough, put together to resemble big flowers, deep-fried and covered with nuts and honey. It's absolutely heavenly.

Find a pastry shop and try the trubochki (Russian: трубочки, "little trumpets"). A trubochka is a cornucopia shape of short pastry filled with meringue and sometimes dipped in nuts. Delicious with chai (Russian: чай, tea).

Drink
The beer in Crimea is outstanding and cheap.

Crimea is a wine-producing region. Most of the wine produced here, at the famous Massandra Palace winery and in Koktebel', is dessert wine in the style of Port or Madeira. Unwary foreigners might buy a bottle of what looks like red or white wine in a kiosk and find it undrinkably sweet. That's because it's meant to be sipped, in very small quantities, not drunk like a Merlot. If it's regular wine you're looking for, avoid anything labelled Портвейн (Portwine), Мадейра (Madeira), Мускат (Muscat), Токай (Tokay). For table wines, ask for sukhoye vino (dry wine) or look for labels such as Совиньон (Sauvignon), Каберне (Cabernet), and Ркацтели (Rkatseteli), or look for Georgian wines, which are delicious and plentiful.

Try the regional sparkling wine, produced at Noviy Svet (Russian: Новый Свет, "New Light"), near Sudak. It's labelled "Шампанское" (Shampanskoye, champagne). Try to buy it somewhere reputable, though, because there are knock-offs. Noviy Svet is a very beautiful spot; you can tour the caverns where the wine is aged.

If you're not going anywhere else in Russia and Ukraine, try kvass (Russian: квас). It's a very refreshing non-alcoholic drink made of fermented wheat, the traditional drink of farmworkers in the bread-basket of Ukraine, prized for its restorative properties.

Try the local kefir (Russian: кефир), a cultured-milk beverage. When ice-cold, it's extremely refreshing on a hot day.

If you're feeling adventuresome, you might look for kumys (Russian: кумыс or кымыз), which is fermented mare's milk, a traditional drink of the Tatars and nomadic peoples of Central Asia.

Beware, some of the local mineral waters taste very salty. Look for a Western European brand, especially if you're going to be exercising.

Vodka is cheap and plentiful, some of the supermarkets have the best prices and the widest choices.

Connect
Germany's Deutsche Post (DHL) does deliver packages to Crimea (as of Apr 2021).

SIM cards differ between carriers, even if the companies are under common ownership.

Mobiles from non-Russian providers do not receive a signal on the peninsula, a result of international sanctions. Many Apple and Google applications are no longer accessible in the region.

Stay safe
Security is tight throughout the region. Visitors should exercise caution in dealing with police and officials, and should avoid photographing anything with military significance.

Consular services are unavailable for voyagers from most nations. Western embassies in Moscow are accredited to cover Russia, but they exclude Crimea on the grounds that it legally belongs to Ukraine. Western embassies in Kyiv may have no means to reach or help you in an emergency.

Some nations have sanctions in place against Russia which may affect travellers. Don't expect Western payment cards or mobile telephones to work in Crimea. Anyone considering doing business in the area should check their own government's rules first. Also check Russian rules; they block some things such as import of Western foodstuffs.

There is high military presence due to Russia's war on Ukraine, and the situation can deteriorate quickly. See War zone safety.

Motor vehicles are a big safety hazard. Drivers tend to stick to speed limits as there are many militsyia (police), but the road surfaces are poor which leads to some unsafe overtaking, even on the curvy coast and mountain roads. Pedestrians cross roads at their own peril. Be particularly careful if a car has stopped for you at a marked pedestrian crossing; check around the car before you venture past it farther into the crossing, because another very well may swing around it and go right through... right where you would be walking. Most cars ignore pedestrians!

Crimea does not have a major problem with crime. However, foreigners are at risk of being robbed if they are not careful about flashing wealth, except in Yalta during the summer which is filled with rich Russians. Foreigners should not hitchhike or take unmarked cabs unless they are travelling in a group. The safest way for a foreigner to travel alone is to take a bus or a marshrutka (a microbus that follows the regular bus routes). Moreover, beware of drunk men at night, especially if your skin is coloured. Beware also of the police, who may be corrupt and ask you for "presents", i.e., bribes.

Discrimination by authorities against LGBT minorities is on the increase as Russian laws now apply to Crimea. The same warnings about anti-gay discrimination which apply to Russia must now also be applied to Crimea.

The countryside, which is extremely poor, is very safe. You are more likely to get kicked by a wandering horse than robbed. Crimeans on the whole are very polite, except when lining up for a bus or service at a shop when pushing to the front has been perfected into an art form. Standing in line is not an option!

There are plenty of ATMs and, as always, be careful around them. At night avoid lonely places where numerous drunks hang out, they are not really a danger except they might fall on top of you.

Respect
Although the Russian invasion and annexation of Crimea is widely condemned in the West, feelings among its residents are more mixed. Avoid referring to the Crimeans as "Ukrainian", so as not to upset those who identify as Russian.

The Crimean Tatars have a tense relationship with Moscow due to the mass deportations under Stalin and their current treatment; they generally support Ukraine.

Go next
Direct travel to neighbouring Ukraine is not possible.

The Crimean Bridge brings you to the Taman Peninsula, where you can continue toward the following Russian destinations:

 * Taman — ancient Turkish fort town with the Cossack ethnography museum
 * Novorossiysk — major port on the Black Sea

Moscow can be reached directly by plane, and Sochi, one of Russia's primary seaside resorts but better known abroad for hosting the 2014 Winter Olympics, is a 12- to 18-hour bus journey away.

title: Crimea


text:
Cripple Creek

Cripple Creek is a small town in Colorado. It is a town steeped in gold mining history, still very much in evidence from the old mine ruins dotted about everywhere. In fact, it promotes itself as "the world's greatest gold camp". In addition, the town is now a major casino destination, as 57% of the residents of Colorado voted to permit this town to have casinos ("controlled gambling") in order to breathe back life into it after it declined in tourism value from the 80s. Today it is a bustling, lively and exciting town that begs exploration of its turn-of-the-20th-century buildings which have been immaculately maintained and makes for brilliant photo opportunities. Watch out though - burros (wild donkeys) roam the streets at large, with the blessing of the townsfolk (except, of course, when the burros are munching up a local garden).

A good time to visit is summer, as the weather is going to be lovely but also expect a high ratio of tourists. The town, however, offers plenty to see and do at any time of year.

Get in
The best way to reach Cripple Creek is via your own car or motorcycle. There are, however, bus alternatives. The drive from Colorado Springs to Woodland Park and then on through to Cripple Creek is windy but probably offers the easiest entry point. It is bitumen all the way.

Get around
Parking can be a bit of an issue, as many areas are 20 minutes or 2 hours only. Casino car parking is strictly regulated and fines and tow-aways occur for illegitimate parking. Look for one of the public parking lots or move your car around. However, the town is so small, that as long as you find a good park, walking is not going to be a major issue and is the best way to get around.

See

 * Late nineteenth century buildings which have been carefully maintained. In spite of the casino glitziness, the old world charm still manages to shine through and enthrall.

Do
You could easily spend an activity-packed weekend at Cripple Creek and still wish for more time to do the activities.

 * District Museums - there are three museums to visit.
 * Casinos - these are situated down Bennett Street.
 * Take a walk down the old time main street, Bennett Avenue.
 * Take photos of the renewed late 19th century signs painted on the sides of buildings.
 * Look for the donkeys roaming the streets at large.
 * Visit Victor, which is nearby and not the slightest bit commercialized - it looks as a mining town would have done 100 years ago. It retains old world charm and has some great antique shops, a broom making workshop (the old-fashioned way) and old-fashioned yarn-making. There is also a small amount of accommodation available here.
 * Look for the donkeys roaming the streets at large.
 * Visit Victor, which is nearby and not the slightest bit commercialized - it looks as a mining town would have done 100 years ago. It retains old world charm and has some great antique shops, a broom making workshop (the old-fashioned way) and old-fashioned yarn-making. There is also a small amount of accommodation available here.
 * Visit Victor, which is nearby and not the slightest bit commercialized - it looks as a mining town would have done 100 years ago. It retains old world charm and has some great antique shops, a broom making workshop (the old-fashioned way) and old-fashioned yarn-making. There is also a small amount of accommodation available here.

Buy

 * Burro or train souvenirs
 * Good reference books on gold, the Wild West and high altitude cooking.

Eat
There are many places to eat standard fare. There are approximately 12 fine dining restaurants.

Drink
There are many bars in the casinos, or you can visit hometown cafés.

Sleep
Options include staying in the casino lodgings where relevant, in bed and breakfasts and in hotels.

Go next

 * If you are adventurous, take Highway 67 south from Cripple Creek through Victor and down to Highway 50, where you can turn east toward Pueblo or west toward Cañon City. Victor remains an authentic old gold mining town with many historic structures.  The road through Phantom Canyon is an old railroad route that requires dirt road skills and at points the road is only wide enough for a single car, so be aware of others coming the other way, but this drive is not to be missed. It encompasses the top of the mountain and the base of canyons and has varied vegetation, including cacti.  The rock formations have to be seen to be believed and there are two fabulous rock tunnels that were originally blasted out for the railway that created this road initially.

title: Cripple Creek


text:
Crisfield

Crisfield is a small town in the south of Maryland's Eastern Shore, along the Chesapeake Bay, and is the state's southernmost municipality.

Understand
Founded in 1666, and once the second most populous city in the state (while now having a population under 3,000!) Crisfield plays an outsized role in the Eastern Shore's sense of self. Its well-known moniker, the Seafood Capital of the World, seems a little dated, now that farm run off from the Chesapeake Watershed has devastated the regions seafood hauls, but it remains one of the principal centers of Chesapeake Waterman culture. While Crisfield is a lot less tourist-oriented than some of the charming small towns of the southern Eastern Shore—it's a gritty port town and a little rough around the edges, it's still a good visit for the authentic Chesapeake Bay culture (and is well combined with a day trip to Smith Island or Tangier), as well as some seafood dining, or the state's famous National Hard Crab Derby.

By car
Take US-50 from D.C. area, going through Easton, Cambridge, and Salisbury. At the 50/13 split take 13 and proceed past Princess Anne. Bear right onto 413 (Crisfield). From Virginia, take US-13N until you reach MD-413S.

By boat
Somers Cove Marina is the largest marina in Maryland, and has plenty of available docking, as well as public departures for Smith and Tangier Islands.

By bus
Shore Transit Route 1 connects Crisfield with Westover and Princess Anne, M-F, with stops at Somers Cove, the McDonalds, and the high school. Route 3 follows a similar route on Sundays.

By plane
There are no commercial flights available, but you can always park your private plane at Crisfield Municipal Airport.

title: Crisfield


text:
Croajingolong National Park

Croajingolong National Park  is a coastal national park in East Gippsland, Victoria, Australia. The name Croajingolong derives from the Aboriginal Krauatungalung words galung, meaning "belonging to" and kraua, meaning "east".

Landscape
The diverse coastal landscapes feature rocky outcrops, large stretches of sandy beaches, coastal dunes and freshwater rivers, making the park a popular destination for hiking and walking, swimming, diving, snorkelling and sea kayaking.

Flora and fauna
The eastern section of the park lies within the Nadgee to Mallacoota Inlet Important Bird Area, so identified by BirdLife International because it supports populations of eastern bristlebirds and pilotbirds as well as other significant fauna.

Croajingolong's landscapes are so spectacular and environmentally significant that UNESCO nominated it a World Biosphere Reserve in 1977. The park houses impressive biodiversity, including almost 1,000 native plant species and 315 animal species.

Get in
There's only one town of any size within the park, Mallacoota, near the midpoint of the Princes Highway between Sydney and Melbourne and a full day of driving from either end.

There are no other paved roads within the park, and you'll need a good 4WD to tackle the unpaved roads.

Fees and permits
Just turn up to the park. No fees required.

Get around
Some of the smaller places can only be reached by trekking but your car should take you to the more important places.

See

 * Tamboon Inlet resort town
 * Sand dunes at Thurra River
 * Lake Elusive
 * Mount Everard
 * Rame Head
 * Rame Head

Do

 * Fishing - a Recreational Fishing Licence is required
 * Flat water canoeing
 * Bushwalking - if attempting Wilderness Coast Walk, first obtain a permit from Parks Victoria

Eat
Outside Mallacoota there are no places to eat, so bring your own food.

title: Croajingolong National Park