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Åland

The Åland Islands in the Baltic Sea have extensive maritime history, warm, sunny weather (compared to the rest of the region), and popular outdoor activities. Although the islands are a part of Finland, they are a self-governing, autonomous territory. The 30,000 islanders (2021) mostly speak a local dialect of Swedish.

Municipalities

Åland is divided into 15 municipalities and one city, Mariehamn. Most municipalities consist of an island group and surrounding archipelago, though a couple are on Fasta Åland, the "Åland mainland", which in fact consists of a few larger islands, separated by narrow sounds and connected by bridges.

 * (Finnish: Maarianhamina) – the capital of the islands

Reachable from Mariehamn without ferry:
 * – ferry port in the west, with a giant post office house
 * – famous for its hills, gorges and caves
 * – home of Mariehamn Airport and the oldest church of Åland
 * – Långnäs harbour, important transportation hub
 * – Kastelholm castle and Bomarsund fortifications
 * – Långnäs harbour, important transportation hub
 * – Kastelholm castle and Bomarsund fortifications
 * – Kastelholm castle and Bomarsund fortifications
 * – Kastelholm castle and Bomarsund fortifications

Archipelago municipalities:
 * – bordering the northern part of the Archipelago Sea in Finland Proper
 * – important fishing hub
 * – island in the south-east, along the ancient fairway; monastery ruins
 * – smallest municipality in Finland, with about a hundred inhabitants
 * (the main island is counted as part of the mainland)
 * (the main island is counted as part of the mainland)

Other destinations

 * is an island with an old pilots station. Transfer boat from Pommern ship to the island in the summers.

Understand
The Åland Islands (pronounced [ˈoːland]) are a group of small islands that belong to Finland. They were awarded a wide degree of autonomy by a League of Nations decision in 1921, which settled a dispute between Sweden and Finland. Among other things, Åland has its own parliament, issues its own stamps, and maintains a special tax status in the European Union. Many Ålanders have tighter ties to Sweden than to mainland Finland and there is a movement for even greater autonomy, although the majority is quite content with the present situation (and some municipalities in the east market themselves on the Finnish mainland to counter rural flight and emigration to Sweden).

The archipelago consists of around 80 inhabited islands plus around 6,000 uninhabited islands, islets and rocks. The total population is only 30,000 (2021), 90% of which lives on the main islands, known as Fasta Åland, which includes the capital Mariehamn. These are connected by bridges over narrow straits (and for one island, a slightly longer passage by cable ferry). In local documents "the archipelago" does not include them.

Use care when planning activities or relying on community services. Outside Mariehamn the communities are tiny; what looks like a town on the map may be a village of only a few buildings at a cross roads!

In winter many guesthouses, cottage villages and sights (such as Pommern and Kastelholm) are closed. There is not much snow; opportunities for winter sports are limited.

Since a long time seafaring has been important for Åland. In old times trade with the capital Stockholm dominated (beside ships visiting on their way to Finland or Russia), but when regulations were eased, the Ålanders, who are quick to entrepreneurship, built bigger vessels – probably the densest ship ownership worldwide – and in the late 19th century they sailed out on the ocean with ships built with the accumulated wealth. Impressive "Captain's/shipowner's mansions" all over the islands remind of the epoch.

Around the turn of the century, when the rest of the world was converting to steam, many shipowners made bargains, buying good sailing ships for scrap prices. The last and most well-known, Gustaf Erikson, owned most ocean-going sailing ships left in the world in the 1930s. When the age of sail definitively was over, there were several shipowner companies, some of which still remain.

When Finland and Sweden joined the European Union in 1995 Åland was left outside the EU VAT area. Åland's special tax status, and the high taxes on alcohol in Sweden and Finland, make it a favourite stop for Ferries in the Baltic Sea. If the cruise ship call at Åland they are allowed to sell alcohol and other items onboard tax-free! Two of the companies in this trade – Viking Line and Eckerö Line – are based in Åland.

At the end of the Crimean War, when Finland (including Åland) was still under Russian sovereignty, a treaty was concluded between Russia, France and the United Kingdom, by virtue of which the islands were demilitarized. Finland assumed the same obligation upon achieving independence. Ålanders are exempt from Finland's mandatory military service, and Åland is eager to tell about the "Islands of Peace" on the international scene, offering their status as a solution to conflicts.

Åland aims to become one of the first self-governing territories in the world which produces all its energy from renewable sources and thus you'll see a lot of windmills and a surprisingly high amount of solar panels for such a northerly location. There are also some experiments with energy storage, among others using abandoned mines.

Holidays
Åland has mainly the same holidays as Finland, but there are also a few of their own. The most notable of these is Åland's Autonomy Day (Ålands självstyrelsedag), which is celebrated every June 9 in memory of Åland County Council's (since 1993 Åland's Parliament) first meeting in 1922.

Talk
The islands are monolingually Swedish, a point of some contention in otherwise bilingual (or, in practice, frequently Finnish monolingual) Finland. This goes both ways: the Ålanders did not choose to be part of Finland and are often upset by the way their language is forgotten by mainland authorities.

Although Finnish is optionally taught in schools, many Ålanders choose not to study it and some may not want to speak it even if they know it. English is very widely spoken, even by many elderly people, and would be the primary choice if you can't speak Swedish or something closely related to it.

Signs are sometimes bilingual in Swedish and English or Swedish and Finnish, but English or even rudimentary Swedish usually make a better start than Finnish. If your Swedish and English are weak and Finnish seems a good choice, start with Swedish anyway and let the local make the choice about changing languages. Tourism is big, many of the tourists are Finnish and Ålanders know service in Finnish is a bonus, so many struggle to be able to offer it.

Get in

There are no border controls on the islands for most visitors, other than random checks. However, Åland is not part of the EU VAT union. This means, e.g., that wine (exceeding the allowed free import quantity) brought from France on ferries via Åland for private use elsewhere in Finland might need to be declared. Check details for any goods that may interest customs. Also note requirements for pets, if not coming from Finland. For immigration, Åland is part of the Schengen Area.

If you need clearance, there is a customs in Mariehamn and in Eckerö and a border guard station in Mariehamn. The Mariehamn customs (mariehamnstull@tulli.fi@undefined) is open M F 12:00–16:00 or by agreement, the Eckerö customs at arrivals and departures of m/s Eckerö except the morning arrival. The border guard station is open M–Su 08:00–20:00 (, VHF channel 68 or 16).

There are plenty of ferry connections between Åland and mainland Sweden and Finland. Primarily to allow duty-free shopping, ferries plying between Turku, Helsinki or Tallinn and Stockholm all stop off at Mariehamn or the jetty of Långnäs 30 km east, making this the easiest way to get in. The night ferries to and from Turku usually call at Långnäs, i.e. in the middle of nowhere, in the middle of the night (don't miss the bus!) In extreme weather or ice conditions sometimes also the ships that should call at Mariehamn call at Långnäs instead, or pass by without stopping in any port, which happens a few times yearly.

There is a shorter and cheaper ferry from Grisslehamn in Norrtälje, Sweden, to Eckerö in the west, and from Eckerö harbour there is a connection bus further to Mariehamn.

There are also ferries via the Finnish archipelago, which can be a nice option, but these connections are more convoluted and not necessarily cheaper, and if you have a vehicle they may require you to stay overnight on the way. The routes include Kustavi via Brändö to Sund and Korpo via Kökar to Långnäs, both on mainland Åland with bus connection to Mariehamn.

Mariehamn also has a small airport that serves flights from mainland Finland and Sweden.

By plane

 * Mariehamn airport is the only airport on the islands with scheduled flights. There are daily flights from Helsinki Vantaa Airport, Turku and Stockholm Arlanda Airport.
 * Kumlinge air strip – the archipelago municipality of Kumlinge has a small air strip which can be used by private aeroplanes.

Ferries from Estonia

 * From Tallinn to Mariehamn by Tallink

Ferries from Finland Proper and Helsinki

 * From Turku to Mariehamn or Långnäs by Viking Line and TallinkSilja (in Turku local bus nr 1 to the harbour, first terminal Viking, last stop Silja; also some coaches and trains from Helsinki and Tampere go there, until 2025 the Helsinki connection by bus for the last kilometres), departures every morning and evening.
 * From Naantali to Långnäs by Finnlines. Pedestrians are welcome on day services outside the summer season, in the night you need a vehicle for arrival in or departure from Långnäs.
 * From Helsinki to Mariehamn by Viking Line and TallinkSilja (terminals near the market square, on each side of the bay), departures in the afternoon. The ships call in Mariehamn in the night.
 * From Vuosnainen/Osnäs (Kustavi/Gustavs) to Åva (Brändö) by Ålandstrafiken ("Norra linjen"), connections by road to Torsholma (23 km) and ferry from Torsholma to Hummelvik (Vårdö), with cable ferry connection to the Åland mainland. Vuosnainen is 70 km from Turku, 1½ hr by car. Bus connection from Turku to Torsholma June to middle August, otherwise bus to Kustavi centre and taxi arrangements onward (check and book in advance). Brändö, Kumlinge and Simskäla of Vårdö qualify as archipelago. Vehicles have to stay one night in the archipelago to not get charged through fare, usually more expensive than other lines, for campers and caravans/trailers this can be up to 760 euro!
 * From Galtby (Korpo) to Kökar by Ålandstrafiken ("Södra linjen"), connections by same or other ferry via Sottunga and Föglö to Långnäs. Bus connection from Turku to Galtby (Skärgårdsbuss/TLO, 2 hr) and from Långnäs to Mariehamn. Kökar, Sottunga and Föglö qualify as archipelago. Vehicles have to stay one night in the archipelago to not get charged through fare, usually more expensive than other lines, for campers and caravans/trailers this can be up to 760 euro!
 * From Houtskär (Näsby or Roslax) and Iniö (Norrby or Kannvik) via a host of minor islands to Torsholma (Brändö) a few times a week. Booking at latest the day before, M/S Karolina and M/S Satava . These vessels are free, but fairly small and mainly take pedestrians. M/S Satava has capacity for a few cars but might not take yours. Bus from Turku to Näsby (Skärgårdsbuss/TLO, 3 hr, usually with transfer in Galtby). Kannvik is reachable by ferry from Kustavi (Heponiemi), in summer also from Houtskär (see Archipelago Trail).

Ålandstrafiken ferries are free to pedestrians but quite expensive for motorists, especially if not staying overnight in the archipelago (i.e. smaller islands not counted as mainland Åland), see Archipelago ferries below. Also, you may not be allowed to book two passages without an intervening overnight stay, There are parking lots at the harbours in each end, for those continuing by foot, bike or bus. Bus lines 4 and 5 go from Hummelvik and Långnäs to Mariehamn (€4–5).

Ferries from Sweden
The ferries going via Mariehamn or Långnäs may skip calling at Åland (or may call at Långnäs instead of Mariehamn) because of storm, ice or other special conditions. This happens only a few times a year, and passengers to Åland are taken care of, but check with the info desk if it seems you might be affected.

 * From Grisslehamn (Norrtälje, Greater Stockholm) to Eckerö by Eckerölinjen, three times daily (online prices: 90 SEK off-season, 100 SEK summer per adult, connecting bus on the Swedish side is free if added to the on-line reservation). It takes two hours from Grisslehamn to Eckerö. From there the line 1 bus (€2.50) connects to Mariehamn.
 * By local bus from Stockholm: Take the 676 bus from Stockholm Eastern station (Tekniska Högskolan) to Norrtälje and change to line 637 to Grisslehamn. Tickets can be bought from the SL app, at SL Centres or at local kiosks, but not on board.
 * By dedicated bus from Stockholm or Uppsala: Eckerö Linjen's buses to Grisslehamn depart from Stockholm (Cityterminalen) 2 hr 15 min before ship's departure, and from Uppsala (Hjalmar Brantingsgatan) 2 hr before ship's departure. The buses return at the ship's arrival. The Bus+Ferry Combined Ticket can be bought in Cityterminalen (Stockholm), from the bus driver or at the ferry terminal.
 * The Viking route from Kapellskär to Mariehamn by Viking Line came to an end in January 2023, as Rosella was sold. A replacement may be arranged for the summer.
 * From Kapellskär (Norrtälje, Greater Stockholm) to Långnäs by Finnlines. Pedestraians are welcome in the day (check whether also in summer), in the night you need a vehicle to disembark in Långnäs. A more quiet passage than on the other cruise ferries.
 * From Kapellskär (Norrtälje, Greater Stockholm to Långnäs by Silja Line (Tallink)
 * From Stockholm to Mariehamn or Långnäs: Tallink/Silja with departures in the afternoon (possibly more departures in summer), Viking with departures morning, afternoon and evening, the ships (mostly) continuing to Turku, Helsinki or Tallinn (check special offers, often much cheaper than regular tickets).
 * by Silja Line (Tallink) (subway to Gärdet, walk to Värtahamnen).
 * by Viking Line (get off local buses at Londonviadukten or take dedicated buses from Cityterminalen to the terminal at Tegelvikshamnen, Södern).

By bike
The cruise ferries take a surcharge for bikes, perhaps €5–10. Check boarding details; you mostly board before or after the cars and leave the bike at the car deck (fasten it so that it doesn't damage cars when the ship shakes and rolls).

The Ålandstrafiken ferries from Galtby and Kustavi take bikes. A ferry ride to or from the "archipelago" of Åland costs some €5, while a through journey to the Åland mainland, without overnighting, costs €15–25 (off/in season). Likewise, fasten the bike.

There are some services that can be used for getting from Houtskär or Iniö to Brändö (not run by Ålandstrafiken). These should be free, but check that your service allows bikes. The service should generally be booked the preceding day, and the ferry calls at many islands.

By small craft
The passage from Sweden over the Sea of Åland is short enough for nearly any boat in nice weather (but check forecasts!). Coming from Finland, there is just a small gap in the archipelago (Skiftet). Gotland requires overnight sailing. Having a boat will allow you to fully enjoy the archipelago.

If you are coming from a Schengen country, you need not follow customs routes or visit border controls unless you need customs clearance. As Åland has a special tax status in the EU, some goods may need to be declared. From outside Finland also pets etc. may require clearance. Coming from a non-Schengen country (in practice: from Russia), you also need immigration procedures. If you need to visit border controls, use a customs fairway (past Korsö or Nyhamn) to Mariehamn. Call the border guard in advance (see above), coming from Finland before you leave port, and ask for directions.

Typical first ports include Eckerö and Mariehamn. From Finland Kökar, Föglö and Sottunga, or Brändö are on the way to mainland Åland.

By bike

A combination of ferry between the islands and a bicycle on the islands themselves is the most popular option. There are well developed facilities for bicycles including dedicated cycle paths along many roads and a few ferries exclusively for bicycles and pedestrians. Book your crossings to ensure you can get on board, get return tickets if returning.

By car

There is a good road network and the main island can be crossed by car in less than an hour between furthest points. Traffic is very light all over the island including in Mariehamn. Car rental should be arranged in Sweden or mainland Finland although it might be possible to rent a car at the airport. Fuel is widely available at organized points around the island and is similar in price to say mainland Sweden. The ferries to the archipelago are not free, check fees and arrangements. Åland has its own traffic law, but differences from the Finnish and Swedish ones are minor, except that parking on the left hand side of a street is not allowed.

By bus
There are bus connections to most parts of the main islands, served by Ålandstrafiken, Google Maps route planner includes most routes. Most archipelago municipalities have kommunaltrafiken: a scheduled taxi which takes passengers from and to the ferry harbour. Using kommunaltrafiken is free if your destination is on the island's main road. Departing the main road costs few euros. Kommunaltrafiken must normally be booked one day in advance.

By taxi
Ålands Taxi has online booking form.

By boat
Åland is an archipelago, so a boat is a good way to get around. There are an adequate number of guest harbours, and nothing hinders you from anchoring in some suitable place away from people. You should be able to charter a suitable boat, or hire a sea kayak. There are also taxi boat services, which often can arrange fishing tours or guiding and small-scale catering for your intended destination.

Archipelago ferries
The archipelago ferries are administered by Ålandstrafiken. The trip to Åland through the archipelago is something you will never forget. Choose a route through either the southern or northern archipelago. Pedestrians travel for free, others have to book and pay their journey on the longer routes. By car, you should book all crossings well in advance: a month before is recommended, two months for July, half a year for Midsummer (you can try to change the booking later, if needed). No-shows are frowned upon (and billed to the double fare), so cancel in time.

Bookings can be made for trips to and from an "intermediate" port, but not from one "destination" port to another. This means you can not make booking between mainland Åland to "mainland" Finland unless you stay overnight somewhere in between (except possibly for some departures with low traffic). Also the transit fare for vehicles is much higher than if travelling to some of the islands (e.g. motorcycle/car in season €70/140 vs €20+20/30+30). Spending a night on some of the smaller islands is probably worthwhile anyhow. You will need the receipt or a similar document to get the reduction.

Difficult? Not really. For example:
 * Direct trip from Galtby in mainland Finland to Långnäs in mainland Åland with single car: no booking option. Transit fare €122.
 * Same trip from Galtby to Långnäs with intermediate stop in Kökar: bookings Galtby–Kökar and Kökar–Långnäs are possible if they are not within same day. Archipelago fare €38 and if booked online you'll get 20% discount. The ferry ticket applies to any continued journey. Just show the receipt for the accommodation with it.

There are parking lots at Hummelvik, Långnäs and Svinö, so you can leave your car unless you need it at the destination.

The Vårdö main islands can be reached from the mainland by free cable ferry, for other archipelago municipalities you need the archipelago ferries. As a cable ferry is regarded as a bridge in Åland this means that Vårdö is counted as mainland Åland in Ålandstrafiken fare system!

See
Most major tourist spots are only open during late spring and summer; off season they can only be viewed from the outside.

Pommern and the Åland Maritime Museum, at the West Harbour of Mariehamn, is the most visited museum in Åland. The ship Pommern serves as a memory of the great fleet of sailing ships that once had the town as their home port. The Maritime Museum has a huge collection of different seafaring related items.

Kastelholm Castle in Sund is a medieval castle that was founded in the 1380s. Nearby is the Jan Karlsgården Open Air Museum, which has traditional buildings moved here from other parts of Åland to form a late-1800s agricultural farm. Vita Björn served as Åland's prison for 200 years until 1975. It is now a museum that exhibits cells giving a glimpse of how prisoners' treatment changed from the 1700s to 1950s, the residence for the warden and his family, and some prison related items like chains and a whipping pole. The Bomarsund Fortress is a huge fortress that was built by the Russians in 1830–1854, but did not get finished before it was destroyed by a French-British navy detachment in the Battle of Bomarsund during the Crimean War in 1854.

In Eckerö, the Åland hunting and fishing museum is a museum about everyday life on the fishing villages as well as hunters and fishermen in Åland. Exhibition has extensive collection of fishing and hunting equipment. The Eckerö Mail and Customs House is a historical building that served as a mail and customs office. Built 1828 it is considered as one of the most impressive work of its architects and together with the Bomarsund fortress as most important buildings from the Russian era in Åland. Märket lighthouse sits on the world's smallest sea island with an international border, divided between Sweden and Finland. Trips are available from Eckerö in good weather.

The Franciscan monastery ruins near Kökar are the ruins of a once powerful medieval Franciscan monastery.

The Geta Hill observing tower provides views across the mainland Åland and to the Bothnian Sea.

Orrdalsklint in Saltvik is a hill that rises 129 metres above sea level, the highest point in Åland, with an observation tower at the top.

Do
Åland is great for outdoor life; hiking, swimming, and enjoying the silent countryside. The right to access is not as liberal as in mainland Finland or Sweden, as the risk of wear is bigger. If you want to camp wild you should try to ask for permission, and you should be more careful in keeping to trails, especially in nature reserves.

The fishing law is different from that of mainland Finland. For fishing, you need a permit from the owner of the waters, available for many locations by paying a fee. Many small businesses arrange fishing excursions or rent boat and equipment. They can probably handle the permits and show where to fish. Some fishing far from privately owned islands is free for Nordic residents.

Postvägen, the Postal Route, dates back to Queen Kristina's days in the 17th century, when the Swedish postal service of that time was organized. Today the Postal Route looks different but it is still very much alive. The 65-km-long route goes through the Åland province between the Mail House in Eckerö and Brändöby village in Brändö. The historic route is suitable for cycling and is marked by postal horn signs. There is a free-in postal route history info in Kastelholm, next to the Jan Karlsgården.

Käringsunds Viltsafari is a game safari zoo near Eckerö.

Make a day trip to a lighthouse. During the summer season there are guided tours to in the south,  in the north, and  in the west. The Åland birdwatching society, alandsfagelskyddsforening@yahoo.com@undefined arranges birdwatching tours to Lågskär and Sälskär. Skarpnåtö Turistanläggning in Hammarland arranges tours to Sälskär. Tours to Märket are arranged by the guest harbour in Eckerö.

Buy

The official currency is the euro (€). Swedish krona (SEK) is usually accepted in most shops and restaurants during the peak season, but the exchange rate is typically not very good, so it is significantly cheaper to pay in euros or by card. Compare rates with local banks first.

Shopping in Åland is expensive. Due to import of most goods, prices in most stores are in the EU highs, mostly 10–50% higher than in the Stockholm or Helsinki metropolitan areas. Prices on some groceries can be even higher, with oatmeal and gruel selling at more than double the price in, say, Stockholm or Helsinki.

As in other Nordic countries, credit cards and debit cards from Visa and Mastercard are accepted.

SALT in the maritime district of the east harbour of Mariehamn has a selection of local artisan crafts including textiles and glassware made in Åland, next to a maritime museum and local jewellery shop.

Åland has its own postal service and stamps unique to the island, these make excellent inexpensive souvenirs. There are post offices in several villages and in Mariehamn.

In general, souvenir shopping in Åland is difficult. The island is not well presented for international tourists and there are often only small displays of the typical souvenirs such as keychains, postcards and mugs. A few of the stores along Torggatan in Mariehamn's centre have these, as well as museums and some of the larger grocery stores. Some museums offer more special things, and local handicraft can be found at some locations.

Local beer, apple juice and apple liquors are tasty and available (Åland produces a third of Finland's apples).

Eat

Some food items to look for:
 * Smoked flounder with potato salad and fish dishes in general.
 * Svartbröd, blackbread, as the name implies the bread is almost black. It is a round and quite flat rye bread. Its most characteristic feature is the taste. The blackbread is sweet. The sweetness originates from the treacle that is added to the dough and from the manner in which the bread is baked in the oven (baking blackbread is a time-consuming procedure). Stored cool the bread stays good for weeks, even months. It was originally used (in a less sweet version) on long fishing, hunting or seafaring expeditions.
 * Åland's pancake (ålandspannkaka) is a traditional and delicious Ålandic dessert. The pancake is made from semolina porridge, flavoured with cardamom and sometimes vanilla, and is served with stewed plums (usually raspberry jam is available as an alternative) and whipped cream. Available in somewhat every café.
 * Cheese from the local ÅCA dairy is of high quality. The Kastelholm cheese is particularly recommended, and works well with blackbread. Its roots can be traced back to the 16th century.
 * Taffel chips are available in any store both in Åland and mainland Finland. Their potato chips are manufactured in Åland from local potatoes. The outlet shop is by the factory in Saltvik.
 * Ålands Senap in Godby produce mustard, ketchup, salad dressings etc. Their products are widely available in grocery stores.

Most restaurants are in Mariehamn. Do not expect to find fast food outlets elsewhere on the islands. Some restaurants have limited hours of service and some are not open every day. Guest houses can usually arrange dinner, but you might have to book it beforehand.

Drink
While ships docking at Åland offer duty-free shopping, alcohol prices on Åland itself are on par with Sweden and Finland. As elsewhere in Finland any products having over 5.5%-vol alcohol are available only through Alko, local producers, bars and restaurants (but the latter are not allowed to sell it out). There are just two Alko stores in Åland, but some grocery stores act as delivery points for pre-ordered items. If you arrive by a cruise ship and expect to need some booze, it is by far easier and cheaper to buy it from the ship's tax free store.

Brewery Stallhagen near Finström has guided tours, an own pub and an outlet store. The Stallhagen beers are available in any grocery store, and in most bars and restaurants on the islands. Åland Distillery make spirits and gin from the fruits at the vineyard near Sund. Peders Aplagård in Kökar makes cider.

Sleep
There are hotels in Mariehamn, but otherwise you will probably sleep at some kind of guest house, cottage or camping site. The host can often offer activities special for the site, such as fishing trips, deer watching, game dinner or guiding at the local sight.

The right to access is not really regarded to include camping on Åland. Overnight camping at one place is limited to one night only due to the islands' small size, fragile nature (and extensive private landownership). In general, for camping in the nature it's always a good idea to get landowner's permission first. There are several camping areas on the main land, and there is a camp site on Vårdö, on Kökar and a very basic unmanned camp site on Snäckö (Kumlinge).

Overnight camping is always forbidden in the nature conservation areas.

Respect

Åland has its own parliament, its own executive government and is generally autonomous from Finland. The cultural heritage though is mostly Swedish.

Speaking Swedish and being a part of Finland, the people of Åland regard themselves as a separate and autonomous nation, and appreciate if you refer to them as one.

Connect
Calling prefix for land lines: +358 18. For telephony Åland is regarded a province.

Internet top domain .ax (formerly aland.fi). Some local companies use .com or .net domains, but .ax dominates.

The postal service is independent from that in mainland Finland, so regular Finnish stamps cannot be used in Åland.

They also have their own mobile provider, Ålcom, while Finnish-Swedish Telia has a network also on Åland. If coming from mainland Finland, be aware that DNA and Elisa have a domestic roaming agreement with Ålcom instead of having their own networks. You will need to turn on data roaming for this to function. If coming from Sweden or another EU country, roaming agreements with Telia or Ålcom will generally be in place, and subject to your provider's EU roaming policy. All new Swedish Telia SIMs will work in Åland on the same terms as in Sweden except unlimited offers, which are subject to a 50GB limit for the duration of the offer; older SIMs that have not been registered with BankID or photo ID and still have an active service plan or balance will not work in Åland. It's not generally advised to get a SIM from Ålcom due to their high prepaid pricing, limited use, and no 4G/LTE access (with a Finnish SIM you get 5–7 days of limited data for €5, 30 days "unlimited" for €20–30, and with a Swedish SIM you get 50 GB monthly for 329 SEK or 8 GB monthly for 249 SEK, and 4G access available from either as of 2023).

Stay safe
Crime is rare and on shore there are few risks.

In the bushes ticks are very common and they carry both Lyme borreliosis and the tick-borne encephalitis (TBE) more often than in mainland Finland. Permanent residents of Åland get vaccinated against TBE for free. For travellers the TBE vaccination is recommended if you intend to move extensively in nature. Lyme borreliosis is treated with antibiotics at first signs of infection (a week or so from the bite). Regardless, find any ticks on your body before going to bed, which will mostly avoid getting infected.

Usual warnings apply to the sea and possible sea ice.

A less obvious risk is the shore of islands close to the cruise ferry lanes: the currents caused by the ships passing are dangerous, with water quickly rising, and then withdrawing like before a tsunami – which will follow.

On the bigger cruise ferries to and from Åland alcohol can cause problems, including drunk brawls and sexual harassment. Do not go alone with strangers to private areas unless you are sure you can trust them (and do report any serious incidents, immediately if you can, they will be taken care of).

The hospital in Mariehamn has round-the-clock general emergency care. Elsewhere medical services are very limited. Critical patients will be sent to university hospitals in Turku or Uppsala by helicopter.

Go next

 * Archipelago Sea, the adjacent archipelago in Finland Proper.

title: Åland


text:
Ålesund

Ålesund is the largest city in Møre og Romsdal county, West Norway, with about 53,000 inhabitants, 66,000 in the surrounding area (2018). Ålesund is the gateway to the iconic northwestern fjords (among which Geirangerfjord is particularly famous) and surrounding alpine mountains. After the devastating 1904 fire, the entire city was quickly rebuilt in the distinct Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) of the time. Ålesund is the centre for Sunnmøre district in Møre og Romsdal county, and the most important town between Bergen and Trondheim.

Understand
Ålesund is built on a row of islands extending towards the Atlantic. The compact old city centre is thus surrounded by water and Ålesund is one of Norway's major fisheries harbour (number 1 measured in revenue). To the east are the Sunnmøre Alps which offers a dramatic backdrop. Ålesund sits at the entrance to iconic Geirangerfjord, majestic Hjørundfjord as well as other great fjords in the Sunnmøre district.

The old city centre of Ålesund was built from wood and totally destroyed by fire in 1904, only a single small house remained. Much international aid, including personal gifts from Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany who used to holiday there, helped to rebuild in what was then high-fashion, Art Nouveau or Jugendstil as it is known in Ålesund. The consistent architectural style gives Ålesund a distinct central European vibe and Ålesund's cityscape is instantly recognizable. Few hours after the disaster became known to the world, Germany sent ships with food, medicine and blankets towards Ålesund. Because of the aid to the homeless people of Ålesund, this is one of the few places where Kaiser Wilhelm remains a hero. For instance one of the key streets downtown is Keiser Wilhelmgate.

At the time of the fire, Ålesund was a young city that from around 1850 expanded rapidly from the small trading post at the present centre of the town. Ålesund was from the beginning based on fish trade. During the middle ages there was however a small town or trading post further east at Borgund Church, now the site of Sunnmøre Museum. The Borgund trading post vanished around year 1500. While Ålesund faces the ocean, the great Sunnmøre Alps and the iconic fjords make up Ålesund's scenic and famous hinterland. Ålesund is the regional centre and the natural starting point for visitors arriving by air or sea. Because Ålesund sits on islands in the northwestern corner of the region, it is not however a natural hub for overland transport. For independent travelers Ålesund is not the best base to explore the wild interior as time and money must be spent on transport. Public transport is however centered on Ålesund.

Ålesund is the regional centre, a hub for transport and shopping with about half of the population in Sunnmøre area. The old centre is cramped on a handful of islands, and a new centre has emerged some 10 km further east (inland) around shopping malls at Moa/Spjelkavika. Sunnmøre area stretches from the Stad cape to Romsdalsfjord, and from the ocean to eastern end of fjords.

By plane

 * SAS Scandinavian Airlines from Oslo, Bergen, Trondheim and Copenhagen
 * airBaltic from Riga
 * Norwegian from Oslo and London
 * KLM' from Amsterdam
 * KLM' from Amsterdam

By rail
The local railway station is situated in Åndalsnes. The train line was supposed to continue to Ålesund city center but was never completed. There is a replacement bus service operating between Ålesund and Åndalsnes for every arrival and departure.

Trains go to Dombås and back three times a day, connecting with the main service from Trondheim to Oslo. In addition, a once-a-day service to Lillehammer operates, connecting with local trains to Oslo.

You can also change at Dombås for services from or to Trondheim, but this usually involves a considerable wait at Dombås. However, Dombås town center is very close to the station and has moderately priced restaurants and convenience shops as well as some tourist attractions on its own.

By bus
Hourly regional services between Ålesund and Kristiansund, Molde and Volda.

Nightly and daily departures from and to Oslo (takes approximately 10 hours).

Several daily services between Ålesund and Trondheim calling at Molde and Sunndalsøra.

Daily services from and to Bergen calling at Volda, Nordfjordeid and Førde with connecting services to Sogndal and Stryn.

By boat
Hurtigruten calls Ålesund, once daily in southern direction (from Trondheim towards Bergen), and once daily in northern direction (from Bergen towards Kirkenes). Ålesund is also a regular port of call for many cruise ships, which dock just south of the old city centre. There are two berths, right next to one another, and all cruise ships use the same exit, which is just a few minutes from the bus station in the city centre.

By car
Ålesund is at the end of the E136 main route, which starts at Dombås where it connects with the E6 main route between Oslo and Trondheim.

It is also on the E39 coastal main route between Bergen and Trondheim. This route requires taking quite a few ferries in either direction which makes it take as long to Trondheim as the ferry-less E136/E6 combo but more expensive.

The modern business and shopping district is at Moa-Spjelkavik district, this is also the hub for road transport as roads E39 (from Bergen), E136 (from Åndalsnes) and 60 (from/to Stranda,Hellesylt, and Stryn) converge there.

By foot
Ålesund is long and narrow, stretching from west to east over five islands, with the old city centre on the western end near the Atlantic. From the old city centre, most attractions are available within a short-medium walk (less than 20 minutes).

Tourist Information Office in Ålesund at Skateflukaia (, info@visitalesund.com@undefined), open daily 08:30–18:00 in summer, at western foot of Skaregata in the old city centre, caters to most needs a visitor to the region could have, including brochures and guides.

Some east of the old city centre is the modern business and shopping district, located in the Moa-Spjelkavik district, but this area is of little interest to visitors.

By bus
Local city bus service is provided by Nettbuss on behalf of Møre og Romsdal county. The Ålesund bus station (Ålesund rutebilstasjon, Keiser Wilhelmsgate 6) is near the cruise ship terminal in the old city centre.

For the Atlantic Sea Park on the west shore of Hessa island, there are special bus services during the summer signed "Akvariebussen" from the city centre bus terminal.

The bus to Sunnmøre open-air museum is the regular bus, 618 or 624, heading towards Moa; fare is 40 kr. Alternatively, you can use a Travel Card called "Reisekort", which is a pre-paid card for travelling on public transport in Ålesund. When using it, you get a 17% fare reduction. Load the Travel Card with the exact amount you will need; for example, in the case of going to Sunnmøre Museum and back: 40 kr x 2 x 0,83 = 66 kr. You can load more than one ticket onto a Travel Card.

In general there are plenty of bus services in Ålesund. It is worth noting, however, that they are very limited in the late evenings, after 5pm on Saturdays and all day Sundays. To get information about local buses, call 177. Bus service to the surrounding area is also available.

By taxi
There are two taxi companies operating, and taxis can be booked by telephone at 7012 or 70103000. Taxis in Norway are very expensive, expect to pay at least 200 kr for even a short trip. They are also more expensive in the evenings and weekends.

See
Much of the joy of seeing Ålesund is to be found in just strolling past the many art nouveau shops and other buildings.

Do
The Atlantic Sea Park (Atlanterhavsparken) at Tueneset is the biggest salt water aquarium in Northern Europe and is built into its stunning environment in the Tueneset conservation area. It offers a range of activities, including diving. After visiting, you can enjoy Tueneset, which is a nice green area with walkways and a fascinating seemingly endless view of the Atlantic Ocean.

In both of the above places you will find bunkers and remnants of the German war machinery from World War II for those that might find that interesting.

Brosundet separates the two central islands of Aspøy and Nørvøy, bridged by Hellebroa. The view of Brosundet is quite stunning. By Hellebroa there is an outdoor restaurant area which is very popular among tourists and locals alike. From there you can walk down onto the tourist boat area and further along to Skateflua with further restaurants and outdoors serving areas.

Also, from Skateflua, you can catch various tourist and express boats to popular destinations, buy fish directly from fishermen's boats and go rafting if the weather is nice.

You should also visit the Geirangerfjord, which is a world heritage site and arguably the most fabulous fjord experience there is. During the summer, catch the Hurtigruten to Geiranger and back. This leaves in the morning and returns you just in time for dinner, unless you want to enjoy it on board, of course. At other times, take a bus to Hellesylt for a fjord cruise into Geiranger and catch a bus back to Ålesund from there.

In the winter, catch a bus to one of the many mountains around the town to go skiing.

Buy
There's a variety of shops in the town centre, particularly in Kremmergaarden near City hall and Aalesunds Storsenter near the town square.

The main shopping centre for the Sunnmøre region is located outside the city centre, 15 minutes away by express bus 628.

Eat
Ålesund is full of restaurants, and you can generally find anything for whatever taste you might have.

For cheap food, the town has quite a few pizza, kebab and burger shops. Next to the town square you will find Dolly Dimples pizza, a few meters away you will find Peppes Pizza, the local Burger King restaurant, and a 7-Eleven that is open 24/7 and sells hot food. You can usually get food for around 100 kr in these restaurants.

For more regular restaurants, you have choices such as Hummer og Kanari (Kongens gate) and XL Diner (Skateflukaia). XL Diner is the largest clipfish/bacalao restaurant in Northern Europe. Expect to pay a minimum of 300 kr.

More upmarket restaurants include Sjøbua, a somewhat famous seafood restaurant, where all food is prepared from the local fishermen's catch of the day. The fish is kept in tanks in the restaurant for maximum freshness.

In general, if you're out in Ålesund, you should make sure to try the local seafood dishes. It is the centre of fish exports in Norway and has a unique tradition is seafood cuisine. Clip fish is a local speciality, and a dish that locally is known simply as "bacalao" is a favourite not easily found in other parts of the world.

Wine is usually quite expensive in Norwegian restaurants: 300 kr or more for a bottle of wine is not uncommon.

Drink
There are lots of places to go drinking in Ålesund. Expect to pay 80-90 kr for a pint of beer. This price level has resulted in a youth culture where people gather at someone's home first to drink and usually don't go out before midnight.

Most establishments are open, but the more youth-oriented ones are usually close to empty before midnight. If you're a visitor out for some youthful partying, it might therefore be advisable to go somewhere else for a few pints first and then go out looking for where the action is after midnight.

All establishments close at 03:00 by Norwegian law. This usually leads to complete chaos (as most people stay until then) and people standing around for hours in taxi queues. If you need transportation, it is therefore advisable to call the taxi company no later than 02:00. If you live in the city centre, it might be advisable to plan on leaving a little earlier as well, just to avoid drunk people in the streets.

If you want to buy alcohol from a shop, beer can be gotten in normal supermarkets until 20:00 (18:00 Saturdays) for 25 kr for a 1/2 litre can. Anything stronger than 4.7% can only be got from state authorised Vinmonopolet (until 18:00 weekdays, 15:00 Saturdays), located in Kremmergaarden in the centre, as well as the Moa shopping centre in the suburbs. Note that supermarkets are not allowed to sell any alcohol after these hours, even if they are still open. Also, alcohol is not allowed to be sold in shops during Christian holidays such as Easter or Christmas.

Go next

 * Runde - the most southerly of the great bird rocks
 * Åndalsnes - the alpine and transport centre, next to Trollstigen mountain pass
 * Valldal - fertile valley with mountain pass Trollstigen and scenic road between Åndalsnes and Geiranger
 * Geiranger - iconic fjord and scenic road to summit
 * Hjørundfjord - lovely fjord surrounded by sharp alpine summits
 * Molde - grand panorama on the northern shore of Romsdalsfjord
 * Nordfjord in Sogn og Fjordane district

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Ålesund


text:
Ålgård

Ålgård is a small town and the administrative center for the Gjesdal municipality in Rogaland, Norway. It is approximately 25 km to the southeast of Stavanger. Gjesdal municipality with just over 10,000 inhabitants is traditionally known for the sheep, that outnumber the municipalities population. The area includes Ålgård, Oftedal, Gilja, Dirdal and a number of smaller places, with a total area of 620 km².

By train
It is not possible to get to Ålgård by train, but Ålgård did have a train station and the railway was in use from 1924 until 1988. Interest has been renewed to open the railway again, and various cost projections have been calculated; so far without any consequences.

By bus
You get to Ålgård by using bus 23 from Sandnes. Various bus stops can be used to get on or off the bus. The bus service is operated by Kolumbus. Signal the bus driver you want to get on the bus by waving and making eye contact.

By car
If you take the E39 from Stavanger and Sandnes to Kristiansand, you will automatically pass right through Ålgård. From Bryne in the south west, you can take road RV506 (Timeveien). The RV45 begins just east of Ålgård, and gets you to among others Byrkjedal and Sirdal.

By boat
You cannot reach Ålgård by boat, but you can reach Gjesdal municipality by boat, as the fjord 'Frafjord' up in the north of Gjesdal has a direct connection to the North Sea.

Get around
Ålgård is small enough to walk around and visit the main attractions. If you want to visit the other parts of Gjesdal, you should use a car or bike.

See
Ålgård is rather small but has an interesting history, mainly focused around DFU, where local farmers could rent machines for spinning their wool. Some buildings from that era have been restored and are in use, such as 'Storahuset' which houses the municipality administration, and 'Veveriet' which houses the local library. DFU is situated around the river Figgjo, which starts at Edlandsvannet. Other interesting places include the traditional farm Limagarden, amusement park Kongeparken and water fall Månafossen.

Eat

 * Gjesdal Gjestgiveri
 * Byrkjedalstunet
 * Cafeen, Ålgård
 * The Great Wall
 * Lonestar
 * Tommy's Kjøkken
 * Pizzabakeren
 * Gjestal
 * Lafthuset
 * Værtshuset
 * Magneten Bakeriet

Sleep

 * Gjesdal Gjestgiveri
 * Kongeparken Camping
 * Lyngen Farm, Bed & Breakfast
 * Frafjord hytteutleie
 * Byrkjedalstunet

title: Ålgård


text:
Åndalsnes and Romsdal valley

Åndalsnes is a town at the mouth of Romsdal valley in the western county Møre og Romsdal. It has attracted some unfavourable comments on travel boards but it's a superbly located transport hub and the Romsdal valley is one of the most monumental and romantic valleys of Norway. Åndalsnes itself is merely a village, but the valley and surrounding mountains and fjords are among the greatest in Norway. Åndalsnes is a centre for mountaineering in Norway and calls itself "alpine town at the fjord". The Romsdal valley and its iconic summits has attracted countless artists since the early 1800s.

Understand
Romsdal is the deep valley stretching some 40 km from the county line near Bjorli to the Romsdal fjord at the small town of Åndalsnes. Romsdal is the valley of the great Rauma river and because of its centrality has given name to the whole county.

Åndalsnes sits at the mouth of Rauma river, opposite the village of Veblungsnes (the former centre), which has a characteristic parish church. Åndalsnes is also the terminal station for the Raumabanen (railway line) running through the valley. Near Åndalsnes the main Romsdal valley converges with the shorter but even more dramatic Isterdal valley, home to famous Trollstigen hairpin road and mountain pass and more wild summits. The lower parts of the two valleys are dominated by the confluence of rivers Rauma and Istra: the delta they create and the meanders through which they flow. The valley floor is surprisingly flat and even between these wild mountains. About 2/3 of the area is above the treeline.

The Romsdal valley allows easy connection to the inland counties of Oppland and Hedmark, and is in fact a western continuation of the great eastern valley Gudbrandsdalen. Lesjaskogsvatnet lake is exactly at the watershed and water from the lake flows both east and west. Åndalsnes' central location made it a transport hub and old trading post. Most visitors by car, train or bus will eventually drive through the valley. The valley has given its name to the district surrounding the Moldefjord/Romsdalsfjord, as well as the entire county.

The Romsdal valley begins around the county line in the highlands where the valley and the river quickly descends through gorges (with lovely rapids and waterfalls) to the relatively even and low valley floor. The road and the railway then runs between some of the highest cliffs and highest waterfalls in Europe. Nearby Eikesdalen valley (as well as Sunndalen) are also home to some of the highest waterfalls in Europe. All waterfalls in Romsdal valley are easily accessible and visible from the car window and from the train (Mongefossen is perhaps the tallest waterfall visible from a train).

Åndalsnes and Romsdal valley were early key tourist destinations in Western Norway. In particular affluent English gentlemen were attracted by the salmon angling in the great landscape. Properties were purchased and hotels established by the English. The alpine pioneer William Cecil Slingsby visited Romsdal, in addition to the Sunnmøre alps (around Hjørundfjord) and Jotunheimen.

Romsdal alps
Romsdal with Isterdalen and nearby Isfjorden and Eikesdalen valleys are home to the Romsdal alps, a group of breathtaking alpine summits. These are the most accessible of Norway's alpine peaks, easily viewed from the main road and railway the runs close. The iconic Romsdalshorn stands opposite the 1000-metre vertical rock face Trollveggen, famous among climbers and BASE jumpers (now forbidden). Trollveggen is in turn surrounded by sharp peaks and more forbidding rock faces. The Isterdalen valley and Trollstigen (on Trollveggens rear) is home to peaks aptly named Bishop, King and Queen, as well as the Troll's claws. Eikesdalen valley is also a hidden gem of imposing mountains around the lovely lake.

Raumabanen
Raumabanen or the Rauma Railway runs between Dombås and Åndalsnes, the name "Rauma" refers to the river along which the line runs. The rail line runs parallel to road E136 and mostly offers the same views. The railway was an engineering achievement in the 1910-20s, particularly the double horseshoe curve (including Kylling bridge) system at Verma - the system was constructed to allow the train climb the steep, narrow valley and cross the gorges at Verma where the high valley (Bjorli/Lesja at upper part of Gudbrandsdalen) plunges into the low valley (Romsdal valley proper). There are several great masonry arc bridges on the line: one crossing a river gorge at Dombås, one crossing the gorge and waterfall at Verma, and a somewhat smaller crossing the river near the county line. All bridges are visible from or within a short walk from the main road. Raumabanen is 110 km and construction lasted about 14 years. The complicated construction of Kylling bridge lasted about 9 years. 600 men worked 15 years to complete the line.

History
Åndalsnes played a key role in the dramatic days following the German invasion April 9, 1940. British troops landed at Åndalsnes to support the Norwegian Army and the town was totally destroyed by the subsequent German bombing. The British troops landed at Åndalsnes (as well as Namsos) were engaged in the first Allied direct combat with German troops during the war. The King, cabinet and Bank of Norway's gold and cash holdings were evacuated through Åndalsnes amidst heavy fighting in a bold and legendary operation. The Raumabanen railway was then strategically important as it connected Oslo and East Norway to the protected harbour at Åndalsnes. Later during the war the railway was the target of sabotage intended to interrupt German transport of troops and supplies.

More than 300 years earlier, Scottish mercenary troops landed in the Åndalsnes and Romsdal valley en route to join the war in Sweden. The Scottish troops marched through the valley and passed Otta in Gudbrandsdalen where they were slaughtered by local militia in a legendary ambush.

Towns

 * Åndalsnes - where valley and fjord meet, end station for the railway, regional centre
 * Bjorli - highest point of the valley, tipping point between Gudbrandsdal and Romsdal valleys

Get in

 * Buses from Ålesund, Molde, Kristiansund and, in summer, Geiranger via Valldal. Note: Bus to/from Valldal via Trollstigen from around June 20th.
 * By car
 * [[Image:Tabliczka E136.svg|30px]] from Oslo and Trondheim via Dombås
 * [[Image:Tabliczka E136.svg|30px]] from Ålesund
 * Road 63 from Geiranger via Valldal and Trollstigen (summer only). Note: Trollstigen mountain pass usually opens late May (between May 10 and June 10), closes late October
 * Road 64 from Molde, Kristiansund, Eikesdalen and Trondheim
 * There is no airport in the area. The nearest airports are Ålesund (122 km) and Molde (67 km plus a ferry). Oslo international airport at Gardermoen (403 km) has good connections by rail or road. The given distances are by road from Åndalsnes.

By rail
The Rauma railway terminates at Åndalsnes and runs parallel to road E136, and are connected to both Oslo, Oslo airport and Trondheim via Dombås junction. This is also a very scenic piece of railway. Trains from Oslo or Trondheim via Dombås go along the Romsdal, one of Norway's most scenic lines. This is the only railway line in Møre og Romsdal and Åndalsnes is the line's endstation. A Minipris (Non refundable discount) ticket from Oslo to Åndalsnes can be purchased from as low as 199 kr at www.nsb.no

Get around
Åndalsnes itself is only a village, and can be covered on foot. Outside the village, distances are long and transport is essentially the same as Get in.

Bus or 10 minute ferry to Molde, ferry from there to Vikebukt and return by bus (from Ålesund) makes a great day out. A return trip to Geiranger with ferry from there to Hellesylt and back is easily done in a day - given an early start if you are going by bus.

See

Do
Drive,or go by bus, up Trollstigen road which is located some 15 kilometres outside Åndalsnes. Trollstigen is a road that is encircled by enormous mountains and goes in sharp curves up the mountain side. The road is normally closed from October to May, but is open during the summer months. On the top one has a spectacular view over the valley and the Trollstigen road. Route 63 through Trollstigen is Åndalsnes-Geiranger is a national scenic road.

Outdoor

 * Åndalsnes with its valleys (Romsdalen and Isterdalen) is the centre for Norwegian alpine sport, rock face climbing and mountaineering. There are also endless opportunities for pleasant walks on paths in the mountain vallies as well as challenging scrambles to impressive summits. Warning: Do not walk on glaciers without proper equipment and experience.
 * Non-climbers can visit the top of Trollveggen, a six hour hike from Trollstigen. You can also hike along the Romsdalseggen, a seven hours popular trip along the ridges over Romsdal. Warning: Experience and solid boots needed, contact a local guide if you do not know the route or are not familiar with Norwegian mountains.

Go next

 * Visit Valldal via the Trollstigen. Trollstigen ("The Troll Pathway") is a mountain road on national highway 63 between Åndalsnes and Valldal in West Norway. It is one of Norway's major attractions due to its steep incline and eleven hairpin bends climbing cliffs and steep hills until the mountain pass. Trollstigen is closed during the fall and winter months. A normal opening season stretches from the mid of May to October. Road 63 Åndalsnes-Valldal-Geiranger was named National Tourist Route by the government.
 * From Valldal continue to Geiranger.
 * Continue by rail towards Dombås, Lillehammer and Oslo on the scenic Raumabanen line.

title: Åndalsnes and Romsdal valley


text:
Åre

Åre is Sweden's busiest ski resort in Jämtland, Sweden,100 km west of the city of Östersund.

By train
SJ runs daily trains from Stockholm as well as seasonal night trains during the summer months and on some major winter holidays. Additionally, Snälltåget runs night trains from Malmö via Stockholm during winter. From Trondheim in Norway, a quick change of trains in Storlien is required. is centrally located and includes a shopping galleria.

By plane

This is the nearest airport. There are domestic flights operating daily from Stockholm to Åre Östersund Airport (SAS), direct bus from the airport to Åre costs about €25 one way. In skiing season EasyJet flies directly from London. There are also charter flights from London, Moscow, Helsinki and Copenhagen.

You can also fly to Værnes Airport outside Trondheim in Norway. International flights from London, Amsterdam, Stockholm, Copenhagen and 16 other European cities.

In the skiing season (December 15th – May 1st) there is a Flygtaxi airport transfer four times a day. 400 kr for one adult one way.

At the airport you take the local train to Hell (takes about 2 min). Or walk 1½ km (1 mile). In Hell you take the train "Mittnabotåget" direct to Åre Railway station, it is worth checking the time of departure from Hell as the train only runs twice a day (in both directions). Generally there is a morning train at around 09:00 and an evening train at around 17:00. Avoid arriving at Hell station too far in advance as it is far less comfortable than waiting a few hours in a cafe at Vaernes airport!

If possible, pre-book your train tickets (from station "Værnes" to station "Åre"). The ticket price is 145 kr one way although there are discounts for students.

By helicopter
You can charter a helicopter to pick you up at Værnes Airport in Trondheim, Norway (40 min) or at Åre-Östersund Airport on Frösön (22 min).

By car
Åre is easily accessible by car. Beware though, that most of the Scandinavian Peninsula will be ice and/or snow covered in the winter season, except for the southernmost Scania province. Snow tires are mandatory in winter.
 * From Stockholm (approximately 612 km or 7 ¼ hr drive): Fastest and shortest is: Road E4–83 (to Ljusdal)–84–296–E45–321–E14
 * E4–E14 over Sundsvall is almost as fast and easier to find, but longer (approximately 654 km or 7½ hr drive).
 * From Malmö (approximately 1087 km or 13 hr drive): E6–E4 (to Jönköping)–26 (to Mora)–E45–321–E14
 * From Oslo (approximately 678 km or 8 hr drive): E6–3–E6 (over Trondheim)–E14

By bus
The ski bus goes every hour and connects the four villages Duved, Tegefjäll, Åre village and Björnen. The bus is free if you have a ski pass, 20 SEK when the lifts are closed.

See

 * The view from the top of the mountain

Skiing
The ski area is on the Åreskutan mountain with its highest peak at a height of 1420 meters, but the highest lift ends at 1260 meters, so the peak has to be reached by a snowmobile lift. The village and ski area are accessible by bus and train.The Åre ski area contains three different areas. These are:

 * — Family friendly and laid back. Featuring long blue slopes and a big children's area.
 * (High zone) (Also including Rödkullen) — The biggest area, where also most of the people are which sometimes means there are long queues to the lifts. Best before lunch, when the pistes are in their prime condition and many people have not gotten out of their cabins yet.
 * — Some of the best slopes in the entire system. Long, perfect slopes and not many people. The 6-chair express lift takes you to the top in no-time. For an easy and fun off-piste experience, take the 6-chair lift to the top, go straight right and down the ravine, a fun and fairly easy off-piste run which features a naturally shaped halfpipe.

There is one ski pass for all the four different systems; however, a separate ski pass can be bought for those who only wish to ski in Duved-Tegefjäll at a cheaper price. Pistemap

Other

 * There are many other extreme sports which you can indulge in Åre, for example kite-flying, ski-doo safaris, horse-riding, ice-climbing etc.
 * There are many other extreme sports which you can indulge in Åre, for example kite-flying, ski-doo safaris, horse-riding, ice-climbing etc.
 * There are many other extreme sports which you can indulge in Åre, for example kite-flying, ski-doo safaris, horse-riding, ice-climbing etc.

Buy
Åre is full of small shops that offer locally made handicraft and various souvenirs.

Eat
Eating out in Åre can be a real experience as several high-end restaurants have established themselves close to the slopes. There are plenty of more casual places too but expect prices to be higher than average.

Drink
Åre is the party hub of Sweden during the winter, and there is party 24/7, if not in one of the bars or clubs then in a cabin not far away. Many bars and restaurants are scattered around Åre Torg.

Popular spots are among others:

Sleep
There is lots of accommodation in Åre—hotels, apartments, cabins and camping. They are very busy during peak season, so book in advance.

'Visit Åre' have a lot of lodging and accommodation available on their website.

Go next

 * Storlien, a border town good for hiking and cross-country skiing
 * Trondheim, the capital of Trøndelag
 * Duved, a less crowded ski resort

title: Åre


text:
Ærø

Ærø or (Aeroe; [pronunciation guide: Æ: Egg; r: red; ø: burn]) is a large island in Denmark, south of Funen. While the island has 6,000 permanent residents, it is a popular tourist destination during summer.

Understand
The whole island is legally considered a single city, but in practice, there are three small towns, 14 villages, and the rest is farms. The three towns are Søby to the north, Ærøskøbing, and, the largest town, to the south.

The city website prominently links to how you can get married on the island, and indeed this is as good a place as any to make use of the relatively liberal and unbureaucratic Danish marriage law.

Talk
The official language, like the rest of Denmark, is Danish. English is also widely understood.

Get in
Ærø can easily be reached by ferry. There are 3 ferry routes serving the island: Svendborg to Ærøskøbing, Faaborg to Søby, and Fynshav to Søby. All ferry routes are operated by the company Ærøfærgerne. Each ferry route operates three to 12 times per day, depending upon the day of the week and the port you want to visit.

Be careful if asking directions, as it's fairly critical to get the pronunciation right in order to be understood. If you ask people for the way to Aero, they will likely look puzzled and point you to the nearest airport after some thinking. If you have trouble; include "island" in the question (e.g., How do I get to Aero island?).

Eat

 * Ærøpandekager, very thick pancakes - a local speciality.

title: Ærø


text:
Çanakkale

Çanakkale (pronounced chah-NAK-kah-leh) is a city in the Southern Marmara region of Turkey. It stands at the outlet of the Dardanelles, the straits between European and Asian Turkey, and has been a travel hub in peace and war since antiquity. With a population in 2014 of 186,116, it has a student buzz thanks to ÇOMÜ, the Çanakkale Onsekiz Mart University.

Understand
This area has been settled at least since 3000 BC. Çanakkale is the closest modern town to ancient Troy: the ten-year conflict described in Odyssey and Iliad is fictional but the Hellenistic city-states were often at war. The Grecian settlement here was called Dardanellia (Δαρδανέλλια). It was at a pinchpoint in the straits of Dardanelles, here only 1.5 km across, so it had double strategic value: as a crossing place, and as a redoubt for controlling shipping through the straits. The Persian Empire under Xerxes and the Macedonians under Alexander the Great were two of the armies that marched this way.

The stakes were raised in 1462 when the Ottomans became established in Thrace, and built the fortress of Kale-i-Sultaniye. By then a cannon-blast could reach over halfway across the straits, so with an artillery position here and another on the opposite bank at Kilitbahir you had control. Those straits to the northeast broaden out into the Sea of Marmara, then pinch again into the Bosphorus, so Çanakkale controlled access to Istanbul, the Black Sea, and Russia.

This enabled the Ottomans to build a great empire by land and sea. The town became known for its fine-glazed pottery and from the 18th century was dubbed Çanak kalesi - "pottery castle". During the 19th and 20th century the Ottoman Empire crumbled, with national independence movements and other Great Powers wresting away territories in the Balkans, and Russia chafing at being bottled up in the Black Sea. During World War I, Turkey sided with Germany and Austria, separating the western Allies from Russia, so it was the nut that the west needed to crack.

By then, artillery power had greatly increased thanks to the engineering advances of Alfred Krupp. Gun positions didn't just line the straits, but were ranged around the coasts to control the sea approaches. In March 1915 the Allied navies tried to blast their way into the straits, fatally underestimating the firepower of this "pottery castle". A combination of minefields and cannonade inflicted great damage on them and on 18 March the survivors of their fleet limped away, a date still celebrated in Turkey. The Allies therefore made shore landings on the Gallipoli peninsula from 25 April to knock out those guns. They also sought to stop Turkish reinforcements pouring into the area and re-arming the coast. It was never their plan to fight a land battle all the way up the peninsula, but once the fleet could sail through the straits, Turkey's flank would be turned and its defences would unravel. The landings did capture their beachheads but the whole operation was bungled and far too slow, so the Allies were pinned down, couldn't advance beyond the beachheads and never silenced the guns: see Eceabat for more. The Allies endured their hopeless positions for almost a year, with great loss of life on both sides, then evacuated. It was a conflict that became seared into western political memory, and shaped the modern identity of Turkey.

Climate
The climate of Çanakkale is Mediterranean, but the slight influence of the oceanic Black Sea coast and the continental Balkans causes it to experience colder than average winter temperatures for typical Mediterranean climates. Therefore, Çanakkale experiences hot, dry summers and cool to chilly, rainy winters with occasional snow. The city is famously very windy year-round.

Summers are hot, with highs around 30°C, even though the hottest days can have highs above 35°C. Rain is uncommon, but a few, moderately heavy showers can interrupt the generally sunny, dry weather.

Winters are cool, sometimes chilly, with highs just below 10°C and occasional night-time frosts. Rain is common, and rainy spells often follow the infamous violent windstorms of the Marmara region, a southwesterly called Lodos. These windstorms tend to cancel ferries, so watch out for these days if you want to take them. Snow isn't very common, but falls and accumulates almost every year and heavier snowstorms can happen once every two or three years.

Spring (especially April and May) and fall are mild, and therefore are the best times to visit the city. There are occasional rain showers, but these generally don't last for long.

By road
Çanakkale is 310 km from Istanbul, 325 km from Izmir and 653 km from Ankara.

From Istanbul, head west then south on O-6 down the Gallipoli peninsula. From Europe head for Keşan, by E90 coming from Greece or by E87 coming from Bulgaria, then go south to join O-6. Keşan and E87 was the route from Istanbul before the bridge and otoyol opened.

1915 Çanakkale Bridge opened in March 2022. This 3.563 km suspension bridge sweeps across the Dardanelles high above Gelibolu. As of Aug 2023, the toll is 205 TL (about €7) for a standard car (plus 75 TL, about €2.50, for the motorway arriving from Malkara), which can be paid by e-tag, bank card or cash at the toll gates. The bridge is closed to high-sided vehicles if winds exceed 50 kph, and to all traffic above 125 kph. Asia-side of the bridge, take the first Lapseki exit to go east along the Marmara coast towards Bursa, but for Çanakkale stay on to rejoin the former highway at Kemiklialan.

Ferries continue to cross the Dardanelles, see below and Gelibolu.

You can also reach Çanakkale from Istanbul by circling the Sea of Marmara clockwise via Bursa. It's a much slower route but you might take it for a tourist itinerary.

By bus
Buses from Istanbul run around the clock, taking 5 hours. Operators on the route are Pamukkale, Metro Turizm, Flixbus and Truva Turizm. This competition means that, except at very busy times, you should be able to stroll into Istanbul Avrupa / Esenler bus station any time and find a departure within the next hour, for an adult single fare around 200 TL. The operators' websites are only in Turkish but are easy to use - the only pitfall is that no buses go to "Canakkale", you must use the letter "Ç" not standard on western keyboards. Either select your extended character set or cut-and-paste from the correct spelling.

One bus by Isparta runs nightly from Edirne via Uzunköprü, Keşan and Gelibolu, 4 hours, 110 TL.

Buses from Ankara take 10 hours via Eskişehir, Bursa and Bandırma, 240 TL. Buses from Izmir take six hours, 150 TL.

the bus station is 5 km east of town in the industrial park at the intersection of D200 and D210. So you need a dolmus or taxi to get anywhere in town. Buses no longer drop off at the ferry port downtown, as they approach by bridge and motorway instead.

By boat
Gestaş car ferries ply across the strait to the :
 * From Eceabat sailing hourly 06:00-22:00 and every two hours through the night, 25 min. Adult 15 TL, car 155 TL (Aug 2023).
 * From Kilitbahir (5 km south of Eceabat) sailing more or less hourly 07:30-23:00, 15 min, no overnight service. Adult 15 TL, car 145 TL.
 * In summer there's a waterbus for foot passengers to the island of Gökçeada, one hour. Otherwise take the year-round car-ferry from Kabatepe, 12 km west of Eceabat.

You can also cross the strait further north from Gelibolu — car ferries sail round the clock to Lapseki Asia-side, see Gelibolu for details.

Extra sailings are laid on at peak times, with long fractious queues to join them. Sailings may of course be suspended in bad weather.

There is a marina, rumored to be reasonably cheap up unil 2023 but very expensive as of 2024. It's also possible to anchor up for free right ouside the marina, or south of the city by the airport.

Get around
Most of the places in Çanakkale are in walking distance. Dolmuşes run toward the War History Museum and beach strip to the south.

The Tourist Office has closed down, but lots of travel agents will sell you tours. These are the best way to reach Troy and the Gallipoli memorials if you don't have your own car.

Car rental: Avis are by the ferry pier, and Budget are 500 m north along the waterfront.

See

 * (Truva Atı): The war has dragged on for nine years, the troops are near mutiny, and the last counter-attack from the besieged city was costly - we may have to quit. Say, let's pretend to quit and sail away, but leave behind by a giant model horse full of malware, which they'll import into the city . . . the tumult of Athens against Troy was matched by the tumoils of making the film Troy in 2004. Its Mediterranean scenes were filmed in Malta; it got mixed critical reviews but had a big-name cast and did well at the box office. When the movie-makers left (or pretended to do so) they left behind this giant steel and fibreglass film prop. The Maltese were understandably suspicious and wouldn't accept it, so it ended up here. Whatever you do, don't open it up!
 * A cannon used in the battle of 1915 now guards Cumhuriyet Blvd by the ferry pier. It was this and similar artillery plus minefields that repulsed the naval attack, with the Allied fleet retreating on 18 March, a date still celebrated as a national victory. So the Allies' next ploy was the Gallipoli landings from April 25, to try to knock out the shore guns.
 * Piri Reis (Ahmet Muhiddin Piri 1465-1553) was an admiral, best known for his maps, among the first to depict North America. This gallery is near the Trojan Horse. The collection has also been housed in the Naval Museum and it's not known which, if any, are open in 2022.
 * Necip Paşa Mosque is at the north end of the promenade. It's a rebuild of 1953, as an earthquake in 1903 beach demolished the original.
 * Colouring-book stairs (Renkli Kitap Merdivenler) are a piece of street art a block south of the Ceramic Museum.
 * Commonwealth war graves are in two plots 1 km inland up İsmetpaşa.
 * is an ancient burial chamber. In 2022 the site is a mess. In legend Dardanos was the son of Zeus and Elektra, and an ancestor of Aeneas. Zeus flooded the world so only a few mountain tops remained as islands, so Dardanos initially lived on Samothrace but moved to found a settlement on Mount Ida. The real mountain of that name is 50 km further south, and Dardanos little suspected that when the waters receded, they would uncover the seaside resort that now bears his name.
 * is the next beach strip south. You're unlikely to find the village museum open, nor the military museum 1 km inland.
 * See Geyikli for sights further south, and for ferries to Bozcaada.
 * is the pleasant forested hill overlooking the town.
 * is a gnarly stump 6 km east of town off D210 towards Çan. The oldest parts may be 2700 years old, and they look every day of that. The castle remained in use to about 1000 AD, guarding the road through the mountains, and nowadays it overlooks a reservoir lake.
 * is a town further east along D210/555, which by this point becomes particularly scenic but starts to feel like you're well past that wrong turn you shouldn't have taken towards nowhere. The town runs a thermal resort on its lush outskirts and that's about all that can be said about it — except it happens to be the hometown of internationally-acclaimed Turkish director and screenwriter Nuri Bilge Ceylan, a potential claim to fame the town doesn't wish to acknowledge. A single short visit is plenty to understand where the prevalent theme of soul-crushing countryside monotony in Ceylan's films apparently springs from.
 * 6 km north of town is a fortress built in 1807, but off-limits as it's still in military use. It was built over the site of ancient Abydos, so nothing remains of that. From 670 BC it was a fishing port (especially for tuna) and the main ferry port for crossing the Dardanelles. Someone should have mentioned this to Leander, who in legend swam across nightly to visit his ladyfriend Hero in Sestos, but who met a watery end. Lord Byron in 1810 also swam the straits with even less excuse, as he'd brought a Royal Navy frigate with him: see Gelibolu for more on both stories and for the ruins of Sestos. Abydos was abandoned by the 14th century when the crossing route shifted north, and its masonry was briskly removed for use elsewhere.
 * is the pleasant forested hill overlooking the town.
 * is a gnarly stump 6 km east of town off D210 towards Çan. The oldest parts may be 2700 years old, and they look every day of that. The castle remained in use to about 1000 AD, guarding the road through the mountains, and nowadays it overlooks a reservoir lake.
 * is a town further east along D210/555, which by this point becomes particularly scenic but starts to feel like you're well past that wrong turn you shouldn't have taken towards nowhere. The town runs a thermal resort on its lush outskirts and that's about all that can be said about it — except it happens to be the hometown of internationally-acclaimed Turkish director and screenwriter Nuri Bilge Ceylan, a potential claim to fame the town doesn't wish to acknowledge. A single short visit is plenty to understand where the prevalent theme of soul-crushing countryside monotony in Ceylan's films apparently springs from.
 * 6 km north of town is a fortress built in 1807, but off-limits as it's still in military use. It was built over the site of ancient Abydos, so nothing remains of that. From 670 BC it was a fishing port (especially for tuna) and the main ferry port for crossing the Dardanelles. Someone should have mentioned this to Leander, who in legend swam across nightly to visit his ladyfriend Hero in Sestos, but who met a watery end. Lord Byron in 1810 also swam the straits with even less excuse, as he'd brought a Royal Navy frigate with him: see Gelibolu for more on both stories and for the ruins of Sestos. Abydos was abandoned by the 14th century when the crossing route shifted north, and its masonry was briskly removed for use elsewhere.

Do

 * Aqualand on the coast between Kepez and Dardanos beaches has water-rides, flumes and so on. Suitable for younger children, older teens will be bored. It's open year-round daily 10:00-18:00, adult 80 TL, child 50-60 TL.
 * Don't swim across the Hellespont unless you're an experienced distance swimmer and have proper back-up and local expertise over currents and shipping lanes. Swimming specialist agencies can organise this, such as Swimtrek, and there's an annual Hellespont swim race in late August. Never treat it as an afternoon lark of "last across buys the beers". The channel here is 1.5 km wide by 70 m deep, and the pinchpoint makes the currents all the stronger. The main flow is outbound, as all the drainage into the Black Sea comes this way to join the Med. But there's a deep backflow, and where they meet creates turbulence felt on the surface.
 * Observe the centenary of the Turkish Republic on 29 Oct 2023. Events will be nationwide; the programme has not yet been announced but given their place in the nation's history, the Çanakkale and Gallipoli areas are sure to feature prominently.

Buy

 * Lots of ATMs near the ferry pier. The stores are a few blocks inland.

Eat

 * Local specialties are bomba (a döner in half a loaf with an omelette inside), and peynir helvasi a dessert of cheese, egg yolk, semolina and sugar.
 * There are several places around the ferry pier and east along the waterfont, but the main cluster is west on Yalı Cd towards the Naval Museum.
 * Husmenoglu is a patisserie famous for its peynir helvasi. It's at Yalı Cd 29 and open daily 08:00-23:30.

Drink

 * Town nightlife is west of the harbour near the clock tower. Many places have live music at weekends.

Sleep
This isn't a tourist town, but its position as regional capital means lots of small hotels for business and other domestic travel. They're clustered along the street leading from the ferry pier. Another strip is by the beach a few km south.

Connect
There is 4G from all Turkish carriers in the city and on the approach highways and ferries. As of Jan 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Lotus Game Center is an internet cafe by the ferry pier, open daily 09:00-01:00.

Go next

 * Kilitbahir is reached by a short ferry crossing from Çanakkale. Near it are the artillery positions which the ANZAC landings of 1915 were trying to knock out, so that Allied warships could sail up the straits to Istanbul. Over on the west coast are the ANZAC beachheads, pinned down by the Turkish defence so the Allies never reached the shore guns and their campaign was a disaster. You need a vehicle to reach these, or join an organised tour.
 * Gökçeada is an island reached by ferry from Kabatepe west of Eceabat, or by summer water-bus from Çanakkale. It has semi-abandoned Greek villages.
 * Bozcaada the island to the south is reached by ferry from Geyikli. It has an attractive old town and vineyards.
 * Troy 30 km south is the ruins of an ancient city, in legend the target of the Trojan War. It has an excellent museum and the inevitable mock-up wooden horse.
 * Bayramiç (70 km south via Ezine) is on the northern approaches to the forests of Mount Ida or Kazdağı (see Edremit for the southern approaches); Ayazma Pınarı 29 km southeast of the town is a particularly scenic, heavily forested nature park with waterfalls, trails and picnic facilities. The area is also the home to much of Turkey's nascent back-to-the-land and eco-settlements community.
 * Assos or Behramkale 100 km south is an old harbour with a hilltop Temple of Athena and great views over the Aegean; Aristotle founded a philosophy academy there.
 * Along the Troad Coast is an itinerary south of Çanakkale combining visits to Troy, Assos, and other historic sites along the Aegean coast.
 * Istanbul to Izmir is an itinerary with one branch following the Gallipoli peninsula then crossing through Çanakkale towards Troy.

title: Çanakkale


text:
Çeşme

Çeşme (pronounced chaysh-may) is a beach resort in the Central Aegean region of Turkey. It's at the tip of a peninsula 85 km west of Izmir, but only 10 km from the Greek island of Chios. It's the largest town in a municipality taking in several smaller resorts and villages, which in 2022 had a population of 48,924.

Understand
Çeşme is a port at the tip of a long peninsula. The name means spring or fountain, likely referring to the geothermal hot springs on the coast a couple of km out of town. In the Middle Ages it was a more important port than Izmir, trading with the Genoese who held nearby islands such as Chios. It surrendered without a fight to the Ottomans in 1566, but trade thereafter shifted to Izmir. In the 18th century Russia under Catherine the Great expanded south and came into conflict with the Ottomans, with a big sea battle fought just off Çeşme. Russia won, and retained a navy in the Aegean for some years thereafter, but the lasting territorial repercussions were around the Black Sea.

The town continued in a small way with trade and agriculture, until the big growth from tourism in the 1970s. It's within a short transfer time of Izmir airport but international tourists mostly bypass Çeşme for the fleshpots of Marmaris and Bodrum further south. Much tourism is therefore domestic.

By plane
For long-distance routes travel via Izmir, which has an international airport and frequent buses from Istanbul and Ankara. A few buses per day continue to Çeşme, taking 8-9 hours from Istanbul for a fare in 2023 of 650 TL.

By bus
Buses and dolmuses from Izmir run frequently round the clock, taking 30 min to Çeşme along the fast dual carriageway O-32. The local bus line is Çeşme Seyahat.

the bus station is south of town centre at the terminus of O-32.

By boat
Ferries from the Greek island of Chios are either fast cats taking 20 min or standard vessels taking 45 min. Operators are Erturk Lines, Turyol and Sunrise. There are four per day in summer, fewer in winter when the standard vessel is less likely to be disrupted by bad weather than the catamarans less stable in rough seas. The adult fare in 2023 is €20. The ferry from Lavrion near Athens was suspended during COVID-19 and has not resumed.

Get around
Dolmuşes link Çeşme, Alaçatı and the outlying hotel strips.

See

 * Çeşme old town has many 19th / early 20th century Ottoman buildings and charming back alleys around the castle and lower part of Atatürk Blv the main thoroughfare. 2500-year old artifacts have been found hereabouts but there's no trace remaining of the ancient city.
 * Cezayirli Gazi Hasan Paşa (1730-90) is the subject of the monument in front of the castle, accompanied as always by his pet lion. He was a captain in the sea battle of 1770 in the bay: the Ottomans were smashed but he distinguished himself and was promoted, eventually to admiral and grand vizier. Originally a Georgian slave, he'd learnt his naval fighting skills with the Algerian pirates.
 * Ayios Haralambos is a former Greek Orthodox church on Atatürk Blv 100 m northeast of the castle. Built in 1832, it's now an art gallery and cultural venue, hours erratic. Saint Charalambos (Ἅγιος Χαράλαμπος) was a 2nd century bishop in Magnesia, the vicinity of Ephesus. His name means "shining with joy" and he was supposedly martyred by cartoonish serial violence in such a devout way that bystanders were instantly converted and had to be martyred in turn, in such a devout way that et cetera et cetera.
 * Ayios Haralambos is a former Greek Orthodox church on Atatürk Blv 100 m northeast of the castle. Built in 1832, it's now an art gallery and cultural venue, hours erratic. Saint Charalambos (Ἅγιος Χαράλαμπος) was a 2nd century bishop in Magnesia, the vicinity of Ephesus. His name means "shining with joy" and he was supposedly martyred by cartoonish serial violence in such a devout way that bystanders were instantly converted and had to be martyred in turn, in such a devout way that et cetera et cetera.

Do

 * Beaches: Dilaila is south towards Çiftlik. Altınkum is further south across the headland. Boyalık is the closest on the Ilıca strip, with several more on the peninsula north.
 * Windsurfing and kiteboarding: these beaches are windy and well-suited.
 * Thermal springs: Çeşme means "spring"; Ilıca means a spa and is where you find them. Some bubble out in the sea, others feed hotel spas along the resort strip.

Buy

 * Lots of little stores, with Carrefour, Migros and A101 the main franchises. They're mostly open daily 08:00-22:00.
 * Banks and ATMs are in town centre along Atatürk Blv.

Eat

 * Kumru is a warm wrap with salami, garlic-flavoured sausage (sucuk), grilled cheese and tomatoes. A vegetarian version is also available.
 * Atatürk Blv is the main eating strip, with İmren, Çark, Seyir Et, Friendly Corner, Hülya'nın Yeri Et, Evim, Levent and Meydan.
 * North waterfront has Asucan, Carpe Diem, Rihtim, Çeşme Deniz, Yücel Balık, Miss.ina and Capa.
 * Çeşme Marina has Fuente, Ferdi Baba and Meyhane Şerefe.
 * Alacati village centre top picks are Fava, Leblebili Meyhane and Imren. Plenty more south by the marina.
 * Dondurma is local ice-cream. Try the balbadem (honey and almond) and the black currant.

Drink

 * The distinction between cafe and pub is not always obvious here. Some in town centre are MelBu, Star Bar, Valentino and Kirmizi.

Sleep

 * Kanuni Kervansaray just south of the castle is a 500 year old caravanserai, now a very basic hotel with cramped rooms and a lot of noise.
 * Yalçın Otel is a pleasant pansiyon in an old Greek house at 1002nd Sk 14. It's quite a climb from the harbour and rooms are small.
 * Kanuni Kervansaray just south of the castle is a 500 year old caravanserai, now a very basic hotel with cramped rooms and a lot of noise.
 * Yalçın Otel is a pleasant pansiyon in an old Greek house at 1002nd Sk 14. It's quite a climb from the harbour and rooms are small.
 * Central Park Otel in Çiftlik gets rotten reviews.
 * Central Park Otel in Çiftlik gets rotten reviews.
 * Central Park Otel in Çiftlik gets rotten reviews.

Connect
Çeşme and its approach highways have 4G from all Turkish carriers. As of July 2022, 5G has not rolled out in Turkey.

Go next

 * Alaçatı is an attractive large village with trad architecture, cobbled streets, cascades of bougainvillea and a photogenic windmill. It has accommodation and other visitor amenities, plus a marina and water sports facilities further south.
 * Izmir is a bustling modern city with good museums.
 * Chios is the Greek island seen from Çeşme, an hour by ferry and easy day-trip.
 * Ephesus to the south is must-see, an extensive and well-preserved Roman city.

title: Çeşme


text:
Érd

(German: Hanselbeck; Croatian: Andzabeg) is a suburb just southwest of Budapest in Pest County. It has the largest population in Pest County with about 67,000 inhabitants.

Understand
The area has been inhabited since ancient times. Archaeological findings indicate that prehistoric men lived here 50,000 years ago.

Érd itself was first mentioned in documents in 1243. The name comes either from the word erdő ("forest") or from ér ("stream").

During the Ottoman occupation of Hungary, Érd was captured by the Turks in 1543, after the castle of Székesfehérvár fell. The Turks built a motte castle and a mosque here. In these times, the place was called Hamzsabég (Hamzabey). In 1684, the army led by Charles V, Duke of Lorraine defeated the Turks near Érd.

In 1776, Érd became an oppidum (town). It is possible that it already had been oppidum before the Ottoman occupation. In the early 20th century, Érd became the property of the Károlyi family. The town grew, but remained mainly an agricultural town until 1972, when several new facilities were built and the touristic value of Érd grew. Érd was the fastest-growing locality in Hungary between the 1991 and 2001 censuses (up 30.6%). Érd granted the rank of city with county rights in 2006.

By train
Érd has five train stops and stations: two are in the center, Érd felső (upper Érd) and Érd alsó (lower Érd); three other are in the outskirts, Érd, Érdliget and Tétényliget. There are two train lines, so you better figure out beforehand where you want to get off.

Érd alsó
Trains and  are available in every 30 minutes (weekdays) / hourly (weekends) from Budapest-Déli pályaudvar to Székesfehérvár via Martonvásár and Gárdony. The journey from Budapest takes 16 minutes and costs.

Trains and  (only on weekends) are available hourly (weekdays) / in every 30 minutes (weekends) from Kőbánya-Kispest (Budapest) to Tárnok, Székesfehérvár. The journey from Budapest takes 37 minutes and costs.

Érd felső
Trains and  are available hourly from Budapest-Déli pályaudvar to Pusztaszabolcs, Dunaújváros. The journey from Budapest to Érd felső takes 25 minutes and costs.

By bus
From Budapest to Érd:
 * From Kelenföld vasútállomás: regional buses are available in every 10–20 minutes. The journey takes 34–43 minutes and costs –.
 * From Budapest-Budatétény vasútállomás (Campona): regional buses are available in every two hours. The journey takes 18 minutes and costs.

Regional bus line network map of Southwest Pest County.

By bus
Volánbusz operates local buses in Érd. Tickets (in 2019): in advance,  from driver. Passes (in 2019): for a month,  for 15 days. Tickets can be purchased at the bus station. Further information: public transport timetable, public transport map.

Buy
Inside the downtown:

Outside the downtown:

Budget
Inside the downtown:

Outside the downtown:

Mid-range
Inside the downtown:

Outside the downtown:

Splurge
Inside the downtown:

Outside the downtown:

Cafes
Inside the downtown:

Outside the downtown:

Pubs and nightclubs
Inside the downtown:

Outside the downtown:

Connect
Érd's postal code is H-2030, and its telephone area code is 23.

Go next

 * Biatorbágy — town northwest
 * Budakeszi — town north
 * Budaörs – town northeast
 * Martonvásár – town southwest
 * Százhalombatta – town south
 * Szigetszentmiklós – town southeast
 * Törökbálint – town north

title: Érd


text:
Étretat

Étretat is a small coastal village in Seine-Maritime, Upper Normandy, France. The town is nestled between the famous towering cliffs, which inspired numerous paintings by the impressionist Claude Monet.

Understand
It is on the Alabaster Coast in Normandy. The beach is composed of stones that have been smoothed by the waves of the English Channel and the town is set just behind the beach.

English is not common here, but basic French or use of a phrasebook will get you by. The tourist information centre, next to the bus stop, has a lot of information about the history of the town and can direct you to the beach, a few blocks from the bus stop. Once at the beach, there are trails to hike up to either cliff. There are two large arch formations on the southwest side of the beach is one large arch on the northeast side of the beach; both are spectacular.

Get in
The town is quaint and picturesque, but somewhat difficult to reach because there is no train that goes to town. There are, however, main lines that go to Le Havre and Fecamp, both of which have buses that run a few times daily to Étretat. The bus ride is €2 per person per way, and the trip takes about 45 min through the countryside. Taking one of the taxis queued outside of the Le Havre train station to Étretat will cost around €60.

Get around
The town is very compact, so walking is the easiest way to get around. Parking places are limited in the centre, but there is a free car park in a field off the D39 road which is about 15 minutes walk from the tourist office.

See
You can walk or hike from the town to the tops of the cliffs and get a commanding view of the channel, the beach and the opposite cliffs.

title: Étretat