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Tipping

Tipping varies extensively among cultures. Though by definition a tip is never legally required, and its amount is at the discretion of the patron, for travellers it can cause some serious dilemmas. Wikivoyage tries to cover the subject in the country articles.

Attitudes towards tipping
In some circumstances, failing to give an adequate tip when one is expected to is a serious faux pas, and may be considered very miserly, a violation of etiquette, or unethical. On the other hand, in some other cultures or situations, giving a tip is not expected and offering one would be considered at best odd and at worst condescending or demeaning. In some cultures it might be seen as a bribe, and in some circumstances (for example tipping government workers), tipping can even be illegal and prosecutable as a serious crime.

In countries where tipping is not customary, attitudes towards the practice can differ and become complicated. For instance, in Hong Kong or Australia, while tipping is generally not practiced by the locals and not expected, it is still welcome by service staff should you decide to do so. On the other hand, in Japan and South Korea, tipping is seen as an insult, and attempts to do so could offend your server. Additionally, in many places (Russia is one), foreigners who are perceived to be from countries where tipping is widespread (such as the U.S. or Canada) may be expected to tip even if locals aren't, and they may even encounter hostility if they fail to do so. In many Asian countries, hotels and restaurants may include a 10% "service charge" before tax in the bill that one is generally required to pay, but otherwise tipping is neither customary nor expected.

In countries where tipping is expected, complicated unofficial standards and customs have developed over the exact percentage to tip, and what should and should not be included in this calculation. In other countries and cultures the topic is way more relaxed.

It is not easy for the traveler to know what to expect when they go to a foreign country in terms of tipping—sometimes the rules are so arcane even locals have a hard time keeping it all straight. While in some cases you as a visitor from a foreign country might be given a certain limited degree of leeway, no one—especially in countries where the law allows employers to pay tip-earning workers lower wages—has complete carte blanche to ignore the rules. It therefore behooves overseas tourists to learn at least the basics of tipping custom in the country they are visiting. (Conversely, if you're a foreigner in a tip-expectant country, you can even work the system to your advantage: locals might assume foreigners will tip less than they should, and if you surprise them by tipping appropriately you may get even better service than a local would get by giving the same amount!)

Worker payment and tipping
In most countries, service personnel get paid enough to live on and thus do not have to rely on tips. While intentions are clearly good, tourists from some places (North America especially) are sometimes not aware of this—or they may simply feel bad not tipping—and they export their generous behavior to other countries where tipping is traditionally not customary. Of course, this is quickly accepted (how would you react if someone gave you extra money?) and creates expectations that did not exist before. In some places, this may also lead to the phenomenon of American tourists getting shoddier service than locals, because it's assumed they'll leave a tip regardless.

If you are tipping in a foreign country, it's best to think in terms of what the amount means for the recipient, rather than how much (or how little) it is for you. In some countries, people occasionally get tipped a month's salary in one go. While this definitely is cool for them, it can cause serious trouble. Think about a waiter earning more than the chief of police...

Another problem is that, even if tipping was originally intended to improve service, some employers use it to underpay workers with the expectation that tips will make up the difference. A prototypical example is the American restaurant industry, where the "service wage" can amount to as little as one-quarter of the minimum wage in other sectors of the economy, as well as places like Namibia where it's common practice even at government-owned facilities. There is no guarantee the recipient even gets to keep the money; some employers may split tip revenue between large groups of workers (as a pretext to pay a lower wage to all of them) or, where legal safeguards are weak, even pocket a significant percentage for themselves. In Canada and the United States, the restaurant industry has a distorted tipping distribution arrangement in which servers get the majority of all of the tips and the remainder of workers such a the cooking staff get a flat rate, resulting in low compensation for cooking staff, while servers in higher end restaurants often make far more in earnings than anyone else at restaurant.

Use of tipping as a de-facto commission on sales in restaurants, with a corresponding reduction in workers' base pay, has unpredictable impacts on how much servers get paid. On a slow night, servers make little or may even be sent home early. Conversely, tipped servers in an overpriced establishment in a busy location stand to profit more with a palm outstretched for gratuities than if they were simply making an honest, predictable fixed wage. These wide variances have little to do with the quality of the service offered, but serve as a means for the restaurateur to shift commercial risks (of wage costs which would otherwise be incurred even when business is slow) onto the workers.

Tipping is also an end-run to avoid taxes, which may be another reason for tips spreading into previously tip-free areas. While there often are technical rules that make income from tips subject to the same taxes as other income, it is hardly if ever reported and thus tips are most often de facto tax-free (especially if given in cash). Exceptions include the United States, where the federal Internal Revenue Service assumes that all waitstaff receive tips and penalizes those who fail to report any; even so, it's very much the rule rather than the exception for U.S. restaurant workers to deliberately underestimate their cash-tip earnings and pocket the (often substantial) difference tax-free.

In countries where tipping is widespread, a restaurateur who quotes an inclusive price (with the various sales taxes and a fair wage for the workers already reflected) would be placing themselves at a severe competitive disadvantage. Their rivals would appear to be cheaper by quoting a moderate initial price, then raising that price to add taxes later (at up to 15% in some jurisdictions), then soliciting tips (which can add another 15% or more). At the individual establishment level, any experiments in all-inclusive pricing will therefore be ill-fated and short-lived.

How to tip
The way to leave a tip varies across countries, trades and venues. In some venues there is a tip jar where cash can be left. If paying in cache one may often add the tip to the money offered, telling it is exact change, or return some when getting the change. Sometimes one can just leave the excess change, perhaps adding some as appropriate. In some restaurants the bill is presented in a folder, where you place the money; if you close the folder, that means that you expect no change. There may be other non-obvious customs, such as the kokorozuke.

As electronic payments are getting more common, and travellers often want to avoid changing money they might not use, tipping may become difficult. Sometimes there is an option to include a tip when specifying details for a credit card reader. Sometimes a default tip is added by the venue, which may or may not be easy to change. Sometimes you have to tell the waiter that you want to add a tip. Sometimes you give the tip in cash even when otherwise paying by card.

Services for which tipping might be customary

 * Food at restaurants, for table service or food delivered, but less so for takeaway, fast food or cafeteria fare.
 * Alcoholic beverages in bars
 * Hotels; opinions vary but this may include housekeeping, room service, porters, and shuttle drivers
 * Taxicabs and rideshare service (Uber, Lyft, etc.). It may also be appropriate to tip the person who calls or hails the taxi for you.
 * Some organized private transport such as shuttles or boats
 * Tour guides
 * Toilet attendants, although adding attendants to washrooms primarily to solicit gratuities may be controversial
 * Gambling
 * At the airport, for basically anyone other than you who helps you move your luggage
 * Parking valets
 * Beauty salons and barbershops
 * Massages
 * Tattoo parlors
 * Grocery store baggers and those who assist you put your purchases in your car.

Religious venues
There are often no entrance fees to religious venues, such as churches and temples, while their maintenance (and even the livelihood of monks etc.) may be at least partly financed by public donations. The temples or congregations may also have extensive charity programs, likewise financed through donations. It may thus be customary to leave an "offering" or other gratuity. This varies widely between cultures and there may be no hints on how to donate and what an appropriate amount would be. Check country articles and articles on specific religions – or locally.

title: Tipping


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Tour cycling

Tour cycling, bicycle touring, or long-distance cycling is cycling for long distance transportation (outside a single city or settlement), rather than urban cycling, sport, or exercise.

Cycling has many advantages as a form of travel, as it is the fastest way to travel by human power, and slow enough to allow the type of local immersion that is impossible with powered travel. Cycle travel is also a cheap form of transportation.

Multi-continental trips are relatively common, such as from tip to tip of the Americas, but cycling can also be enjoyed in month-, week-, or even weekend-long trips. Some routes, such as the Karakoram Highway, are extremely challenging, but an infinite number of safer and easier routes are also available.

Long-distance cycling involves a number of challenges not normally encountered in short and medium distance travel. Negotiation of differing road rules, and attitude of authorities to individual cyclists can vary between countries. Different road traffic styles can be very disconcerting where motor vehicles and drivers have little regard for cyclists. In many countries bicycle infrastructure is handled at a very local level and municipal or regional boundaries may be immediately apparent by the sudden disappearance or plummeting quality of bike paths.

Distance
To get decent distance you should have trained at least somewhat. If it is the first time on the bike this year, a first day of 60 km will indeed feel plenty. That is not to say you need to be an expert cyclist. Normal fitness is quite enough and a bike is forgiving of your carrying extra weight. If you are not used to physical exercise at all, that will of course show on uphill legs and in your speed, so you might want to check what daily distances are realistic for you. Give yourself enough time to actually enjoy the tour.

On a good paved road on level terrain, without a headwind, a cyclist of average fitness on a touring bike can comfortably cover a day, depending on the number and length of stops. Distances of up to a day are feasible, but anything much beyond  will require considerable physical strain and not allow many stops to enjoy the places you visit. For many, a day will be the optimal distance to aim for, as it will give a sense of achievement and also leave plenty of time for meals and activities.

Be aware that a full load will slow you down. You may average on your unladen bike, but being loaded up with panniers can reduce that to 15 km/h (10 mph) or less.

For a seven-day itinerary, aim to cover about. It is a good idea to ease into a longer trip, do short days to start with, and take a break on the third or fourth day, to allow sore muscles to recover, perhaps stopping in a city or engaging in a different outdoor activity, such as kayaking or swimming.

Geography
The gradient of the trip will reduce your range, in exceptional circumstances with uphill gradients to as little as a day. Watch the altitude lines on your map closely, both for individual gradients and total altitude differences.

Gradients of more than about 5% are difficult to overcome on a laden touring bike. A rule of thumb is that for every of altitude you climb, you should add an extra 15 minutes to your journey time.

In hilly or mountainous regions, the easiest routes for cycling are downstream along major rivers, as overall they will be downhill. A long, roundabout route along a river will usually be easier than a short, direct route over a hill or mountain pass. However, it is worth bearing in mind that the most scenic routes often come from hilly terrain. If you are feeling up for a challenge, try some hillier routes. Start small, your legs will get used to it and the views will be worth the effort. Former rail lines that have been converted to bike trails are often quite flat, with bridges and tunnels where you'd otherwise have to go up and down quite some height. Similarly, routes along rivers like the Elbe Radweg are popular among novice cyclists for precisely that reason.

Motor traffic is often worth avoiding as much as possible, for example by planning your cycle trip in less densely populated regions (unless it is in a country that offers exceptionally good cycling facilities, such as The Netherlands or Denmark), by choosing minor roads over trunk roads, and staying away from larger cities unless they offer good cycle paths. Not only can it be dangerous to share the road with large numbers of cars and trucks, it will also be less fun.

Navigation

Ideally you will have maps showing the contours of the region you are visiting, along with tourist attractions, accommodation, campsites and other useful places. You'll probably want a mount for the map or device, not to have to stop to check the next waypoint, and you will want to have the map protected against rain. The electronic solutions may offer spoken turn-by-turn directions (wireless headphones will help). Dedicated devices are usually water resistant and some come with a bike mounting.

Depending on the device and app, downloading dedicated biking maps (or using them online) may be possible. In some apps you can choose what layers to show, to get a general map tailored for your needs. You should be able to at least add waypoints.

For shorter trips, local specialized maps for cyclists can be an alternative. They are often available in Western countries with a good cycling infrastructure (as paper, pdf or web application). The biggest benefit is that the maps are curated. You will rarely end up in bad traffic or dead-ends. Differently themed routes lead you along the most popular sights of a region and take the weight of "route planning" off you.

Before you go, check how to choose the layers and markers to show: topography, roads, cycling routes and bridleways, points of interest (such as picnic areas, camp sites, shops, cafés and sights). Also check what settings are needed to get nice, interesting and feasible routes, avoiding stairs, too rough roads, roads with heavy traffic, and perhaps too hilly terrain. Check that this works along your intended route – maps on different countries may be differently coded or include different features. Add places or features that interest you but aren't on the map, either as a marking along your waypoints or uploading it for general use.

If going for an electronic device, note battery life and the risk of it ceasing to work for whatever reason. See GPS navigation for this and some other caveats.

Paper maps
For paper maps you usually have to choose between general overview maps and large scale maps giving the details you want. The latter only cover small regions, and if you are covering any kind of distance you will find yourself buying rather a lot of them, which can prove expensive and heavy. Many conventional maps won't give you good information about cycle routes or bike lanes.

One compromise is to buy a road atlas of the country or countries you are planning to visit, tear out (copy) the necessary pages and only take those. You'll often find you can get a good 1:100000 map fairly cheaply, but still showing minor roads, campsites and marking out any steep hills.

Even if you use paper maps en route, you might want to check online for details not covered by your map. Also if you have paper maps as a backup, you can copy some essential information to them.

GPS maps and devices
There are a few models of GPS devices specifically designed for bikes, but note that most of them do not come with bike trails in the actual maps. That is, the hardware is designed for bikes, but the software is largely the same as what you'd use in a car but with some reduction in features (e.g. no voice navigation). Some simpler cycling GPS units only record your track and statistics, and do not offer on-the-go route planning. Many hiking-oriented units can also be mounted on handlebars with an adapter.

Also smartphone applications can be used, so long as one is mindful of battery life, rainfall, and other pitfalls of the long-distance tourist. Even most basic phones (around €120 plus memory card) are sufficient for the job. Most navigation apps today offer the possibility to pre-load the desired maps per country or region, so an internet connection isn't necessary while you're travelling.

OpenStreetMap's volunteers have compiled very good cycle route information, better than commercial rivals in most countries. Information is less good in countries where the project is less active, such as parts of South America, Africa and Asia. OSM-based dedicated biking maps are available here:
 * OpenCycleMap shows routes
 * CycleStreets allows you to create routes in the UK
 * T4B helps create tracks and convert formats of tracks for GPS devices
 * OsmAnd is an app for Android and iOS and can create routes through the navigation option, which displays elevation information and can be exported as GPX.

OSM / OCM maps can be downloaded and imported into Garmin maps formats for their Bike GPS units:
 * Full list of OSM maps sources for Garmin
 * Simple select and export tool for OSM maps to Garmin, including a bicycle-centric view.

It can take a bit of a while to get used to the map formats, plus creating routes and importing them for daily use.

Other information
It's best not to take advice from non-cyclists too seriously, whether given in person, on-line or in print. Often they will overestimate the difficulties, and underestimate the pleasures. This is particularly true in the case of distance, traffic situations (especially in developing countries) and road conditions.

Equipment
Cycling for extended periods requires somewhat more than a basic set of wheels, and both comfort and convenience can be improved with a few standard add-ons, however every piece of extra weight you pack is going to require extra energy to move around.

The bicycle
Hotly debated among cycle tourists is what makes a good touring bicycle. Much of the choice depends on what style of touring you plan to do. Someone doing a short supported tour in a developed country will have vastly different needs from someone doing a long distance self-supported tour in a developing country. While the former will do very well with a light weight road bike, the latter will be better with a dedicated touring bike.

Almost any bicycle can be used for a tour, but some will enable you to travel farther and more comfortably, with fewer mechanical problems.

Here we assume you will be carrying at least a moderate amount of baggage.

Recumbents make excellent touring machines. Especially the tadpole trike configuration with over 3 square feet of seat means a great degree of comfort and comfortable seat while in camp. You can gear a trike very low for easy hill climbing to crawl up hills as slow as you want. With the recumbent trike if you want to stop and look at something, take a picture, look at a map, or take an on bike nap, you just pull over and stop. No getting off the bike and no tipping over. The face forward head position makes watching the world go by very comfortable. Safety wise, trikes offer handlebar mirrors with a 180 degree rear view and having your hands free makes it very easy to acknowledge motorists you may be holding up (a motorist who has been acknowledged with a friendly wave is much more patient.) The wider stance and car-likeness of the trike means motorists treat you like a car and will pass with a wide margin. Another safety feature is riding feet first and low to the ground making head injury less likely in a crash. Trikes are typically harder to crash, don't easily tip over and handle emergency off-road ditching quite well. A final note on safety is having two front braking wheels which usually feature disk brakes providing lots of stopping power and no flipping. On the downhill trikes are known to exceed 50 mph while remaining stable and fun. On the flat they can be a bit faster than other bikes. Up hill they tend to be slower.

Recumbent electric driven bicycles (pedelec) are relatively rare on long-distance travel, and bikes with solar panel trailers even rarer.

Comfort
When spending long hours in the saddle it's important that the bicycle is comfortable for you. Some things that make it more comfortable are tire choice, handlebar choice, and saddle choice. Tyres should be smooth, for lower rolling resistance, wider than road (racing) tires, and narrower than most mountain bike tires. Something in the range of 32 to 40mm if using 700C, or 1.25" to 1.75" if using 26" is ideal. The important thing with handlebars is for them to offer a variety of hand positions, this can be achieved in a variety of ways.  One option is the "drop" bars as found on road racing bicycles, these are normally mounted higher on a touring bike, to put less pressure on the hands, they provide the most numerous hand positions.  Ideally wider drop bars would be chosen for touring than racing, 44 cm for example.  The other common way to get multiple hand positions is to put bar ends (horn-style handlebar extensions) on "flat bars" (mountain bike style bars).  This is cheap and easy, but only provides one or two additional positions.  Other, less common, but excellent options are moustache bars or butterfly bars.   A good saddle can really help reduce saddle-soreness, and is worth spending a little extra money on. Don't go for the biggest, squishiest gel saddle you can find - often the soft seats can rub a lot more against your delicate parts. It's best to go for the "sculpted" saddles that are designed to support your sit-bones. It's a very personal choice, and hard to know what you'll find comfortable until trying it out, so find a saddle you're happy with well before you leave.

Carrying capacity
The most basic part of being able to carry lots of stuff on your bike is simply being able to bolt a rack (or two) on. It's important to have bolt holes near the rear axle for the rack, and it's nice to have them near the saddle too. A front rack lets you balance the weight out more evenly over both wheels, and the bicycle handles better as a result. Ability to bolt on water bottle cages is also good. A longer wheel base will make the bicycle more stable and give a more comfortable ride when loaded. Of course having a bike that's strong enough to handle the weight is also important.

Overall the bicycle should be stronger than a bike not designed to carry loads for long distances. When carrying 10–20 kg it's worth having a bike that's a few kg heavier and much stronger. One very important part of this is the choice of wheels. Wheels with 36 or 32 spokes are stronger, and double walled wheels are mandatory for any touring. Light weight wheels popular with road sports cyclists are to be avoided.

Serviceability
Nothing lasts forever. Check, or have a professional check, your bike before you leave. Let them know that you plan to do a tour on it and you don't want mechanical problems messing it up—don't let them try to save you money at the cost of a problem on your tour. When choosing a bike (or adapting a bike) look for parts that are as mechanically simple as possible, as they will be more reliable and easier to service when something eventually wears out. Avoid proprietary parts entirely (like the Cannondale "Headshock") as they can only be serviced by authorized dealers. Other details depend on where you are travelling, but as a rule of thumb don't use the latest technology, stick to tried and trusted systems. If traveling in the developing world a good rule of thumb is to try to keep your bike as compatible as possible with department store mountain bikes. Bikes like these have penetrated many developing markets, and replacement parts are more commonly available in many countries. It would be unwise to try for compatibility with the Chinese/Indian roadster that is even more common in many developing countries. The parts would be hard to find in the developed world, and would not be high quality anywhere.

Component choices

 * Shifters: Many modern bicycles have very complex shifters that are not possible to service, changing to bar-end shifters is a good choice for bars that will fit them (drop or moustache) as they are very robust. Old (80s or 90s) mountain bike "thumbie" shifters are a good choice if using flat bars, but are hard to come by, and are only compatible with the number of gears they were designed to be used with at the time.
 * More gears is not always better; while it is important to have a good range of gears, especially a very low option, 9 or 10 speed rear cogsets wear faster, and come out of adjustment more easily than 7 or 8; and usually do not give wider range than 7 or 8. A cassette with 8 gears on it is probably the best choice as reasonable quality and selection of cassettes is still available.
 * Rear hub: The rear hub is a part of the bike that is under a lot of stress. The older standard of rear hub was designed for a threaded freewheel, the new one is called a freehub and is used with a cassette. The newer freehub is stronger, and more reliable. While replacement parts are harder to find in some parts of the developing world, it would be a good choice there too. It would be far less likely to need replacement than a freewheel hub, and if. Internal gear hubs (IGH) for the rear wheel have become more sophisticated in recent time with wide range 11 speed and 14 speed hubs available. While costly they are not much different to the cost of a regular derailleur group-set. These IGH's have the advantages of ease in gear changing, protection from the elements and very low maintenance requirements. On a short tour you may need to do nothing to them, on a longer tour it may need no more than an oil change and chain tensioning.
 * Headsets: Threadless 1 1/8th inch is a good choice. While threaded 1 inch have been around for longer, they require large tools to adjust, and are not as strong.  Avoid integrated Headsets as it can be difficult to find parts for this in the developed world and worse in the developing one.
 * Bottom-brackets: Square taper Bottom-brackets are the most common, and the easiest to find replacement parts for, they make a good choice. The only disadvantage is they are a few dozen grams heavier, not a worry on a touring bike.  Avoid the many different splined standards.  Unfortunately square taper BBs are coming on very few new bikes these days—though you can still buy quality ones.  It would be worth swapping to a square taper BB and crank if you are planning an extended tour in the developing world.
 * Wheel size: In many developing countries the 26" decimal wheel size (aka ISO 559) is more common than the 700C size (ISO 622). (But other sizes that are now discontinued in most of the developed world may be even more common)  It's probably safest to stick with 26" if possible.  Be aware that the naming conventions for tire sizes are convoluted and far from self-evident.  For example, there are 6 different incompatible sizes all known as 26" see this list for more info.

Frame
Steel is a good choice for the frame. It comes in a number of forms for bike use: quality Cromoly steel is a bit heavier than aluminum, and Hi-Ten steel significantly so, but both more than make up by being more durable, safer to ride with crash damage, and may be possible so improvise some sort of repair if damaged. Lugged frames may be stronger than welded because of the additional material at the joints, but only if well made. Titanium is the strongest, and lightest, most weather resistant, but impossible to repair (without very very very specialized equipment) and out of most peoples budgets.

Dedicated touring bikes, like the Surly Long Haul Trucker, Trek 520, Thorn Sherpa, or similar, are ideal; but not the only option.

Many older (90's) mountain bikes fit the characteristics of a good touring bike, with some modifications made, most importantly removing suspension forks if present, putting slick tires on, and adding bar ends (or putting drop bars on).

Other equipment

 * An odometer, or cycle computer, is essential for long tours when you need to gauge distance travelled against maps and road signs, preferably calibrated in local units (miles in the United States and United Kingdom, kilometers everywhere else). A simple GPS may be preferable, as it displays more accurate information and does not require a mechanical trigger on the wheel, and has other benefits as detailed below.
 * Even if you're a very light packer, you'll want a set of panniers to put your gear in. Backpacks raise your centre of gravity, cause you to sweat more or even over heat, and will fatigue your back.  A rack with bags mounted on either side of your rear wheel is a much better alternative, with a pair for the front if you have more stuff.  Front bags aren't only if you can't fit everything in the back, they spread the load out over both wheels better and make the bicycle handle better as a result.  Another option is to carry your luggage in a separate trailer.
 * Take specialist cycling maps of the area you plan to cover, and a compass to navigate them. Cycling maps are often also included in cycling travel guides. If cycling maps aren't available, use maps at a scale of 1:50,000, to 1:200,000.
 * A smartphone may be pre-loaded with maps with an app like OsmAnd, and can use GPS for location without data charges. Having a local SIM card with data access means you can access other information easily if required.
 * You may want to consider a clipless pedal system, in which a cleat on your shoe locks into the pedal. This will give you better pedalling efficiency, and allow you to use a greater range of the muscles in your legs, thus fatiguing them less. If you choose this, you might also want to take a lightweight pair of flip flops for walking around off the bike, to prevent the cleats from getting worn down.
 * A lock is essential in most parts of the world. A small D-lock is preferred by some as it's compact, hard to break, and suitable for locking the bike to a solid object; others prefer cable locks which, although not as strong, allow you to lock up your bike to a wider variety of things, and are lighter.
 * Bottles for storing water in. You can also get backpacks with a large bladder you can fill with water: these have a tube that sits on your shoulder so that you can sip water easily, or water bags for carrying a backup supply on the rack in arid conditions.
 * Fenders / Mudguards: If there's even a slight chance of rain, and there's always a slight chance of rain, these are more than worth their weight.
 * Lights: Even if you don't plan to ride at night, it's easy enough to get caught out after dark. They are a basic safety item, and the front one doubles as a flashlight (torch).  Not all lights are made equal, and modern lights can light the path in front you as well as a car headlight.
 * A kickstand adds weight, but can be handy in places where it's inconvenient to park your bike against an object or the ground.
 * Hard case tyres may add a little weight and rolling resistance, and slow you down, but they do reduce inconvenient punctures on the road. No matter how puncture resistant your tires are, make sure to know how to fix a flat on the road.

Repair kit
The choice of tools depends on where you are going, how self-sufficient you need to be, and what repairs you are capable of. Don't bother taking anything you don't know how to use; it will just be dead weight. A basic kit would include:
 * A fully featured multitool (allen keys with some other basic tools), pump, patch kit, chain tool (and replacement rivets if using a shimano chain, or master link if using a SRAM) and one or more spare inner tubes.
 * Zap-straps, duct tape (gaffer tape) and locktight are extremely useful and with a little ingenuity can be used to fix all sorts of things.
 * Some spare bolts could save the day; 5mm is the most useful; it's used on almost all bikes for the racks, and various other things. If you don't have them, in a pinch a less important bolt (e.g. for the water bottle) can be borrowed to replace a more important one (e.g. for the rack).

An advanced kit is good if you need (or want) to be more self-reliant,
 * Spare cables (brake, and derailleur).
 * Spokes of the length needed by your wheels. Either temporary Kevlar ones, or permanent stainless steel ones with a way to take the cogset off (e.g. Mini Cassette Lock or similar) to remove the cogset.
 * Brake small parts: V-brake "noodles" and hanger if using V-brakes. Cross over cable and hanger if using cantilever brakes.
 * The type of pads needed by your brakes.
 * A spare derailleur hanger, the part that attaches the derailleur to the frame of the bicycle, on aluminium bicycles they are removable, and designed to bend easily to prevent damage to the frame and/or derailleur. They are very specific to the model of bicycle so finding one on the road would be difficult, even in a developed country. One that fits all bikes is made, and works adequately in a pinch.
 * A Leatherman or similar non-bicycle specific multitool could be useful, but only in addition to a bicycle specific one. Using the wrong tool is a great way to round bolts, and generally mess up your bike.
 * Long distance tours in developing countries or isolated areas may take a spare set of tires with them. Ones with a folding bead will pack up reasonably small.

Clothing
There is a variety of cycling-specific clothing that can make your trip much more comfortable and/or safe:

 * Helmet - required by law in some jurisdictions. They are widely recommended as an important safety precaution. However, the science on helmets improving or endangering safety vis-a-vis motorists is not clear and rather controversial. They also offer some protection from the sun.
 * Jacket - wind- and water-proof layer for protection from precipitation and cooler temperatures.
 * Cycling shorts - special shorts with padding around the crotch to increase comfort and reduce chafing, also can be worn under looser fitting clothing for more modest people, or when in more modest countries.
 * Tights - for cooler weather than shorts; more comfortable than trousers and less likely to get caught in the chain. Usually come with reflective markings at the ankle.
 * Gloves - Wearing padded gloves to minimize vibration and pressure on the hands during long rides makes a huge difference to your comfort. Use cut-off style for warmer temperatures, full-finger for cooler.
 * Eye protection - UV protection is better for the long-term health of your eyes and makes for a more comfortable ride. Detachable lenses allow you to use the best lens colour for different conditions (such as yellow for cloud cover or clear for nocturnal riding).

Camping gear

 * Tent, sleeping bag, and camp mattress – if you're not intending to stay in a town each night, or want to minimize costs. If you are going to camp wild, check additional requirements.
 * Cooking equipment (stove, pots, utensils) is used by some to avoid restaurant eating, although it is common to buy ready-to-eat groceries.

Eat
Food choice depends largely where you are in the world, so see the respective sections for more info about foods. As you will be working hard, it's important to get enough energy in your food. Consuming foods high in carbohydrates and fats is a good idea, and on longer trips protein is also essential. On long trips away from major towns there may be stretches with little quality food available, so be prepared to subsist on candy bars, prepared meat products and the like, unless you are equipped to cook proper meals. Special outdoor food (or everyday food adapted to outdoor life) may be a good idea for long trips through remote areas.

Sleep
While you can take a tent or something similar with you (in a trailer if need be), many hotels and especially campsites can accommodate cyclists and some, especially those along popular routes, aggressively market that fact.

Hostels, particularly those run by national youth hostel associations, are often well equipped for cyclists. Dedicated cycle sheds are common, as are self-service laundry facilities and drying racks. Hostels with self-catering kitchens allow you to prepare food to your own needs, and there may be a chance to chat to other cyclists as you cook.

In other places, hotels may be less used to and thus less accommodating of cyclists. If you are exploring uncharted territory for cyclists inquiring with your place of accommodation in advance spares you the search for a new place to stay after a long exhausting day of travel. Ask detailed questions about where you can store your cycle and if cycling clothes would be acceptable in the restaurant.

Some national cycling organizations cooperate with places of accommodation that offer bicycle-friendly facilities, and some publish guidebooks on cycle friendly accommodation. The German ADFC maintains a pretty exhaustive list of "Bed and Bike" certified accommodation. Hotels that earn such recognition usually display it prominently on their website.

The global Warm Showers network is more of a "bottom up" organization where volunteers offer a place to stay (or the literal "warm shower") to touring cyclists in exchange for getting the same courtesy when they themselves are on tour.

The right to access in the Nordic countries is generally almost as accommodating to cyclists as it is to hikers and certainly more accommodating than to motorized transport. While the geography and climate in the Nordic countries may be a challenge for some cyclists and the infrastructure on the road sometimes leaves something to be desired, there's virtually always an opportunity to pitch your tent for the night.

Taking your bike on public transport
Getting your bicycle to the start of your intended cycle route can be an adventure in itself. Riding your bike from home is the easiest and cheapest way to start your trip, if you are willing to start in the area you live. If you aren't going to cycle all the way, you may need to do some research in advance about which carriers let you take your bicycle on board.

Airlines may require any or all of the following: that you fix the pedals in position; that you lower the pressure in your tires (emptying them entirely leaves the rims with little protection). To give your bike good protection it's best to pack your bicycle in a special box (most bike shops are happy to give you the sturdy cardboard box bicycles are delivered to them in), and the airlines often require this. Airlines vary about permitting a bicycle as a free item of checked baggage: some allow this, some require that you pay an extra fee. Shop around before buying a ticket. In almost all cases you need to inform the airline in advance that you wish to check a bicycle. Read the regulations yourself before checking in, as the airline's staff may attempt to charge you when the bicycle should be carried for free. To pack a bicycle back into a shop-box you will need to remove the pedals and front wheel, and remove or rotate the handlebars. Larger boxes and bags can be purchased if the size is acceptable to the airline.

Buses may have luggage compartments under the seating area, a cargo areas inside the bus, or roof-racks, all of which may accommodate only one or two bikes or several, or they might not carry bicycles at all. Buses may also require a bike to be dismantled and placed in a case or box. Again, check when planning your route, and at least when booking.

Trains may have lots of space for bicycles, for example if they include baggage cars, and at the opposite extreme they may not carry them at all. If the train requires that you book a seat, you may need to inform them at the time of booking that you will be carrying a bicycle, and it may need to be boxed. If you're travelling on a service that doesn't require booking try to avoid peak times; many commuter services either charge extra for bicycles at peak times, allow bikes only outside rush hours, or simply do not have room in the carriages for bicycles. Commuter trains may have onboard racks inside the car. Note that Amtrak in the north-eastern United States does not permit bicycles on any service. Folding bikes may sometimes be easier to get aboard a train, but you may not want to do a cycling trip of any length on a folding bike.

Ferries tend to be a very bike-friendly form of transport and most will carry bicycles without a problem. Some will charge a small extra fee for this. On a car ferry, you will usually ride on and off with the rest of the vehicles and be directed to an area where you can place your bike, normally with ropes to secure it. Some ferry companies will let you leave panniers on the bike during the voyage, but be sure to take everything you need for the crossing, and anything valuable.

Stay safe
There are some simple and important precautions you should take when planning a bicycle trip to make sure the essential parts of a bike journey, bike and biker, both stay in condition.

Familiarize yourself with basic repairs, especially puncture repairs. park tool has good info on their site, as does the more entertaining and opinionated site of Sheldon Brown. Neither is a substitute for good hands on experience though. Learn to know the sounds of your bike: if there is an odd sound, it usually means something is wearing down and should be fixed or at least examined without delay.

Make sure you're carrying enough fluids: you may consume around 1 liter (1/4 gallon) per hour of cycling. Even when cycling under cloud cover, sunscreen is essential to protect your skin in the short term (sunburn) and long term (skin cancer). Finally, try to avoid routes where you might get into contact or conflict with motor vehicles. Cycling is very safe on dedicated infrastructure, but unfortunately motorists and truck drivers don't always see cyclists and are sometimes just plain reckless when cycling infrastructure is bad.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Tour cycling


text:
Tips for rail travel

Before airplanes and automobiles exploded onto the scene, rail travel was virtually the only way to travel cross-country. This is evident in Jules Verne's Around the World in 80 Days where Phileas Fogg makes extensive use of rail travel to make his way around the world. In some parts of the world, such as Europe and much of Asia, it's still one of the standard modes of city-to-city travel, and in others (e.g. North America) it remains as a fairly popular alternative. With no traffic, rail travel has the advantage of always being in motion. It lacks the speed of air travel on longer distances and often the density of coverage of the road network, but compensates with space to move around while someone else does all the driving. It's also more comfortable than air travel, especially in terms of legroom and to those who don't like the thought of being suspended 30,000 feet above the ground. For distances between about 100 and 800 km it may be the fastest method of travel, especially if you need to go from city center to city center. A rough first estimate is that a train is faster than a competing air-service if it takes three and a half to four hours or less, as getting on a train usually doesn't require being at the station more than some fifteen minutes prior to departure. For longer distances it takes longer than travelling by air, but provides you with a ground-level view of the territory you're visiting, and allows you to stop on the way. Prices range from cheaper than even a full car in some countries that highly subsidize public transport to comparable to (or even higher than) cheap airline-tickets in other countries that want their railways to generate revenue or have privatized them. In some cases both at the same time, depending on the level of service and the time you book.

Baggage
Rail lines usually have no explicit weight or size limits for baggage. However, they assume that all passengers can carry their baggage with them. While suitcases sometimes need to be stored in compartments, a carry-on bag can be stored in the overhead storage, or at the seat.

Motorail
Some long-distance trains allow you to bring your car on the train with you, in which you load your car onto special carriages and travel in the regular passenger carriages. This is today most common in Continental Europe, but is also available on a few select routes in the United States, Canada, Australia and Argentina.

Ticketing
When buying tickets, these are a few things to keep in mind:
 * 2021-12-03 China-Laos-Eisenbahn.jpg aware that it can be very expensive in some countries to travel by train. Especially high speed trains can be as expensive as — but more convenient than — flying. When comparing prices read the fine print carefully, as both trains and no-frills airlines sometimes charge (unreasonably large amounts) for things such as seat-reservations, baggage, printed boarding passes or certain forms of payment. Generally speaking trains are cheaper the shorter the distance and while planes show a similar dynamic it is much less pronounced and longer airfares are (usually) cheaper per kilometer than shorter airfares.
 * If you can, book in advance. In many countries you benefit from a substantial discount, and on popular routes at certain times longer-distance trains can be fully booked. Reserving a seat, on the other hand, will usually incur a small surcharge — in these countries, you will have to decide whether or not the train will be empty enough for seats to be readily available.
 * Fares might be calculated by distance, speed, type of train or by market demand (with more popular routes and times being more expensive) or of course any combination thereof.
 * Many countries offer passes, allowing several journeys to be made within a region. InterRail (for Europeans) and Eurail (for others) are good value for those who qualify and wish to travel extensively through Europe. Otherwise, typically, the value gained from such a ticket is in inverse proportion to the area covered (unless you spend the whole period of the pass on trains). Amtrak and the state of California offer similar deals for non-residents, as do Japan and South Korea.
 * In some countries tickets can be bought on the train, in others they must be bought before boarding to avoid fines. In some countries, both systems exist depending on the type of train. Buying tickets on the train might incur a surcharge, or mean you can't buy a discounted ticket that would have been available from the ticket office. Generally speaking the best that can happen if you buy tickets on the train is that they are as expensive as if you had bought them any other way.
 * Some stations (such as a few French TGV stations) are not really close to anything, but most of the time the station is in or very close to the center of the city and certainly closer than the airport (if there is one). A few airports have in turn gotten their own railway station in recent times
 * Some tickets may be bought via a Smart-phone App and are usually checked by scanning your screen. Note that a ticket on a Smart-phone with a discharged battery usually can't be checked
 * Many airlines in North America, Europe and Asia have entered cooperations with railways to offer through-tickets from the airport to some or any stations of the national network. While the exact specifics vary this can work out to be a steep discount compared to separate tickets or a flight on the last leg of your journey instead of a train-ride. For more on this see Rail air alliances.

When to travel

 * If possible, try to avoid commuter rush hours. For local trains, this typically means travel on trains due to arrive at a reasonably large town or city between (roughly) two hours before and one hour after the traditional start of work, and departing a similar sized town between one hour before and two hours after the traditional end of the workday. On the other hand rush hour trains are more frequent, and if you don't mind standing, you're more likely to have good connections in peak periods.
 * In western countries, Friday evenings, Sunday afternoons and public holidays are not good times to travel. Services are often reduced or non-existent on Sundays and public holidays.
 * Some lines, especially high speed lines, are frequently used by "weekend commuters" and thus particularly prone to overcrowding on Friday evenings and Sunday evenings but almost empty the rest of the week.
 * The days immediately prior to "family holidays" (Thanksgiving in North America, Christmas in Europe, the end of Ramadan in Muslim countries, Chinese New Year in China, Golden Week in Japan, Easter Week in Latin America, etc.) are especially prone to crowding as well as higher prices.
 * Services in the late evening or early morning are often sparse and may not be as safe. That being said, in countries with flexible pricing taking the "red-eye" may save you considerable money, just as it does in aviation.
 * Sometimes there are a few discount tickets or special discounts apply for certain days, times of the year or hours of the day. If this is the case it is usually wiser to travel at off-peak times, or plan well ahead if you are reasonably flexible.
 * Night trains often have sleeper accommodation, but nearly all of them also have normal seats as well. Many sleeper- routes can be boarded "along the way" (i.e. between either terminus) but the departure/arrival time may well be something uncomfortable like Thursday night at 2:34AM.

Sleeper services

In many countries there will be sleeper services at night. While you will usually pay a premium for the accommodation, you also possibly save on a hotel and "lose" less time in transit even if the total travel-time might sometimes be higher (in some countries sleeper-trains have lower maximum speeds than regular trains). Consider investing in a couchette or sleeper compartment, which are often cost-competitive with lodgings for the night. A couchette cabin has around 6 beds for sleeping and no other facilities, while a full-fledged sleeper will have two to four beds and possibly bathing facilities like a sink or shower.

Using sleeper services may have some drawbacks:
 * Because of the noise and the shaking of the train, the quality of the sleep may not be as good as in a real bed. Some people, however, sleep better while on a moving train.
 * Having several persons in the same tiny room could make the atmosphere smelly.
 * If no bathing facility is available, you may not feel comfortable the next day of your travel, and it may prevent you from using such a service several days in a row.
 * When arriving at your destination, you may have to find a place where to store your baggage (such as a coin locker) for the day, for example if you plan to visit the city.
 * Your time of departure/arrival may be in the middle of the night or the early morning. This is especially true for connections between second-rate or minor cities that are along a route but not on either terminus.
 * To avoid the need to change trains in the middle of the night, many railroads split up and join trains during the trip, which can mean in the extreme that the 12 car train leaving A has two cars bound for B, three cars bound for C another two heading towards D, four cars with the final destination of E and finally one car that goes to F. If you board that train and are headed towards F, triple check you are in the right compartment, especially if you are unfamiliar with the local script.

At the station

 * If required, check that you have validated your ticket. You may have to pay a fine or a supplement on board if you forget it. There are often machines for that on the platform and/or in the train. In some places, fare inspectors are very humorless, have a tendency to rules lawyer and speak little to no English, so your excuse of "it's my first day here" is unlikely to get through or have much effect if it does.
 * Be on time, or early. In many countries, if you have bought the tickets in advance, turning up 10 min before departure is more than enough, but allow more time if the departure station is large and unfamiliar.  Longer distance (inter-city) trains often lock the doors 30-60 seconds before departure.  Sometimes an earlier arrival is necessary, for example in China where there are security and identity checks before boarding, or for the Channel Tunnel between England and France/Belgium, where border checks are done before boarding.
 * Many trains call for very brief intervals at smaller stations, sometimes as short as 30 seconds. Have all your baggage at hand and be prepared to board quickly. Tuck away loose pieces of baggage like drinks, maps, guidebooks and coats before the train arrives to ensure a smooth boarding procedure.
 * Don't run if you can avoid it.
 * Do not walk on the tracks except at an authorized, controlled crossing or under the direction of staff. Look both ways before crossing, even if warning devices are operating. Do not cross against warning devices.
 * Stay behind any yellow lines on platforms except when you are actually boarding.
 * Stand well back from the platform edge when express or through trains pass the station. They can generate a lot of turbulence as they pass.
 * Face the platform edge if you are wearing a backpack, so the pack won't be caught by a moving train.
 * If you have anything with wheels or rollers with you, keep an eye on it, make sure the brakes (if any) are engaged and position it parallel to the tracks. This will minimize the risk of rolling on platforms which slope slightly towards the tracks.
 * Pay attention to announcements both over loudspeaker and via (electronic) boards if you don't speak the language/ can't read the local alphabet ask railway-staff.
 * Familiarize yourself with the layout of the station. Usually tracks/platforms are continuously numbered starting with one, but there are exceptions and layouts along the lines of track one next to track four and track 360 next to track 361 in a separate building are not entirely unheard of. Sometimes a part of the tracks is subterranean which may or may not be indicated on your ticket.

Boarding

 * India - Sights & Culture - 007 - Busy Bangalore train (342054679).jpge boarding a train, wait until all passengers getting off at your station have alighted. Trains will not depart if there are still people queuing to get on, even if it means they're a minute late, unless there is an explicit rule spelled on the ticket stating that the train may skip scheduled stations in case of delay. (The exception can be very frequent services at rush hour, where a few seconds delay can cause many following trains to be delayed, but in this case the next train will not be far behind.)
 * When boarding, stand on either side of the doors when other passengers are alighting.
 * If there is a spare seat next to you, you can take it but if it turns out it's someone else seat, let them sit in it.
 * Find out if the class or car you are boarding is in the front, middle or rear of the train and position yourself on the platform accordingly. Ask the staff on the platform. In some countries, stations are divided into zones and diagrams show you what zone your coach number corresponds to; for Japan and China's high-speed trains, even the exact positions of the doors are painted on the platform.
 * Some trains consist of two or more parts going to different destinations or taking different routes. They will usually be separated en route, so make sure you line up for the right part already before boarding.
 * Give way to encumbered passengers, such as people with lots of bags, people with children and people in wheelchairs. Offer them a hand if you can if they're struggling.
 * Do not enter or leave any train that is moving or while the doors are closing. If someone is stuck in the door, alert the guard. Many modern trains have a safety interlock which prevents the driver starting the train if the doors are not fully closed and locked. If the train does begin to move, operate the emergency stop/door release lever/button. (Do this only in an emergency as once the train is stopped this way it may need to be inspected from end to end — which may cause a considerable delay. There are fines for stopping a train inappropriately and you may be put off the train where it is stopped and handed over to the police. Missing your station is not a valid reason to stop the train.)
 * Many trains, particularly commuter services have some device to see if somebody is still trying to board or alight. Often this comes in the form of a photo sensor in the door, that may be triggered by people standing to close to the door. Get away from the door once you're on board, as you might otherwise trigger the sensor, keeping the doors from shutting and thus holding up the train.

On board

 * Trains offer a wide variation of amenities. Some trains offer airline style entertainment systems, WiFi and power sockets. Others offer very little by way of facilities, some not even offering toilets.
 * Train toilets are also to widely varying standards; some may not flush and others may be extremely unhygienic, while others are spotless and extremely modern.
 * Tuck away your baggage as much as you can. Don't let it block the aisle or the seats for other passengers. There may be baggage racks at the ends of carriages for larger items, or overhead space for smaller bags.
 * Most trains in developed countries are fairly safe as far as petty criminal activity is concerned. However, take reasonable precautions against theft wherever you are. Ensure that your baggage is kept in your sight at all times. If you have your own compartment, lock the door from the inside when sleeping, preferably with your own lock.

Accommodation on board

 * If the train is lightly loaded, just sit anywhere (preferably where the seat is stable).
 * More typically, there will be some seats remaining. Double (or triple) seats are usually fairly hard to find (although there may be some at the far end of the train)
 * If you are on a peak time train you may find that all the seats (if any) are taken. Do the best you can to find a safe place to stand or squat. Do not occupy the roof, the toilet, the baggage racks or the space under the seats or tables.
 * Many trains have first class accommodation. This can be affordable in some cases, or very expensive in others. You are paying (typically) for a wider seat and a much emptier compartment. The "perks" offered to first class ticket holders are usually fairly minimal (for example, free tea and coffee, better entertainment or newspapers). Do not travel in first class unless you have a ticket or other permission to do so. In some countries (such as Belgium), pregnant women have first class access at no extra cost.
 * If there are reserved seats and you do not have a reservation, look above the seats, as the reservation is usually marked there and take a seat without a reservation. If there is no indication system or the one there is doesn't work, ask staff to help you.

Food on board

 * Almost all railways allow you to bring your own food and eat it en route. For money-conscious travellers this is often the best option. See also camping food.
 * You should also bring your own food if you have dietary restrictions such as gluten-free, kosher or halal.
 * In some developing countries people may enter the train for the sole purpose of selling food. It may also be sold through windows or on the platform during a (short) stop. This is usually cheap but at your own risk of travellers' diarrhea. In high income countries these people are usually railway employees or officially licensed, but their selection of food and drinks is usually limited and overpriced.
 * In most long distance trains there is some form of Dining car (labeled any number of terms) with food ranging from microwaved junk-food to freshly cooked local specialties depending on the train. Of course expect to pay more than you would for comparable food outside a train.
 * In some trains (usually the "premium" category i.e. high-speed first class) you can get food served at your seat. If it is included in your fare, don't expect too much. Sometimes you will have to pay more than in the dining car.
 * In Japan, ekiben (駅弁), essentially a boxed meal meant for consumption on trains, is sold at major train stations and on board long-distance trains. Many cities take pride in their ekiben, which often feature local specialities, thus making the meals generally of higher quality than regular American-style fast food. The ekiben tradition was exported to Taiwan under Japanese colonial rule, and it continues today in the form of the Taiwan Railway Bento (臺鐵便當), which in its most traditional form consists of a stewed pork chop on rice with a braised hard boiled egg, some tofu and vegetables. Like its Japanese counterpart, the Taiwanese version is sold at major railway stations and on long-distance trains (except the high-speed rail, which is not run by the Taiwan Railways Administration), and aficionados often debate about which railway station sells the best bentos. While Japanese ekiben are designed to be eaten cold, the Taiwan Railway Bento is served warm.

Stay safe
Keep in mind that trains are generally an extremely safe mode of transportation. This is especially true for high-speed railways. The Japanese Shinkansen has not recorded a single on-board fatality in 50 years of operation (although one passenger was killed in 1995 when the train started while their hand was stuck in a passenger door). The last deadly accident on a German high-speed train was in 1998 and the cause of that accident has since been eliminated. Even though it might sound counter-intuitive, high speed trains have a better safety record than "normal" trains. All trains that go above the general speed limit (160 km/h in continental Europe, 79 mph in the USA, 125 mph in Great Britain) are equipped with continuous in-cab signalling, which interacts with the trains systems and automatically applies the brakes if the driver exceeds the speed limit or is at risk of passing a signal at danger. This makes accidents caused by driver error drastically more unlikely. Furthermore, high speed lines are built without level crossings and part of the process of upgrading a "normal" line is removing or drastically reducing the number of level crossings. In some countries high speed lines are even fenced off or elevated, thus almost eliminating the possibility of something or somebody getting on the tracks.

In a few developing countries like Egypt where rail infrastructure and rolling stock are inadequate and unmaintained, rail travel can often be dangerous, and accidents can be lethal. You should consider other transportation when travelling in these countries.

That being said, there are some ways to increase your personal safety:
 * All trains have emergency brakes. If you see something that drastically compromises the safety of the train (e.g. a piece of a wheel piercing the floor), don't hesitate to pull it. While pulling it without reason usually incurs a fine, if you can show that you had reason to believe that the train was in danger, you are off the hook.
 * This should go without saying, but: Don't step on the tracks. Especially not if the gates are down. If you have to cross at a level crossing, do so quickly, only when and where allowed, and look both ways before doing so.
 * If something falls onto the tracks or your vehicle get stuck/breaks down on a level crossing, immediately get everyone clear of the tracks. If one is available, use the emergency telephone at the station or crossing to contact the signaller, who will try to stop any approaching trains if they can. Only once the signaller has assured you that all trains have been stopped should you try to remove the item or vehicle.
 * In the unlikely event of an accident, the windows are usually a means of escape. On some trains, there is a red dot on the upper part of the window and a small hammer next to it. Hit the dot with the hammer to shatter the window and just push it out. On other trains similar systems exist. If railway staff are available, they should always know how to get out through the window, failing that, the process is usually written out somewhere near the window or in a safety brochure.
 * Automatic doors can usually be disabled and then opened by hand. Again don't do this "just for fun" as you might incur a fine. In the event of an accident, there is usually a lever to pull or a button to push.
 * When exiting the train after a derailment, especially when exiting through the window, there may be a significant drop to the ground. Keep that in mind and look before you jump. If there is fire, even a broken leg or two is better than suffocating in the smoke, though.
 * When you jump from the train, be wary that electrified overhead lines could have fallen on the train. Make sure not to touch both the train and the ground simultaneously as you could earth the wires and receive a high-voltage electric shock.

The major risk factor for the average passenger, is crime on board, and at the stations. As stations may not have ticket gates (such as those in continental Europe), they (including the docked trains) are less protected from thieves than, for instance, the airside of an airport.

Especially pickpocketing and molestation do occur on crowded trains though usually no more or less than in other crowded situations.

Speed of travel

 * Trains travel at widely varying speeds. High-speed trains travel at around 300 km/h on dedicated lines, making rail the fastest travel mode for fairly long distances. They are in fact capable of even higher speeds if infrastructure allows it, but economic concerns usually keep speed at or below 320km/h (200mph).
 * Conventional trains may travel at 150-250km/h in countries with decent infrastructure, or significantly slower in others. The same country may have both modern, fast lines and older, slower lines. The general speed limit for non high speed trains is 79 mph in the US, 160 km/h (99mph) in much of continental Europe and just around 200km/h (for specially equipped track) in Britain.
 * Many countries have medium to high-speed tilting trains (sometimes called Pendolino) that allow for higher speeds on curvy tracks than normal trains. Some travelers get "trainsick" due to the movement of the train. If you fear this might be the case, try using another train.
 * When crossing major urban agglomerations trains are usually faster than road transport as the tracks are less congested than roads
 * Trains are typically, though not necessarily, faster than buses.
 * When comparing speeds of air-travel to train-travel, keep in mind that getting to/ from the airport also figures into your travel time. In Europe most airports are outside of city-centers (especially those of low-fares airlines with Hahn being more 100 km from the city of Frankfurt it claims to be close to) and travel to/from them can take well over an hour. Keep in mind that security checks and boarding procedures - if they exist at all - usually take longer at airports than for trains.

By region and country
We have more detailed guides on rail travel in these specific countries/regions. Other than that the "by rail" subsections of the get in and get around sections usually provide the information where more detail is not needed. If you know more about rail travel in a specific area, don't hesitate to plunge forward.

Asia
China, Japan, South Korea and Taiwan all have extensive and well-developed railway networks. Japan's iconic Shinkansen was the world's first ever high speed train, and for a long time was the only such railway line in Asia. However, China, South Korea and Taiwan have since jumped on the bandwagon and now possess modern high-speed rail lines along their main business corridors. In particular, China has invested heavily in quickly building up its railway infrastructure, and now boasts the longest high-speed rail network in the world, including an "international" connection into Hong Kong.

Outside of East Asia, many railways have fallen into disrepair and are merely relics from the pre-WWII colonial era. In many cases, poorly maintained infrastructure means that travelling by bus or by plane can be faster than taking the train. In Southeast Asia, long-distance trains are slow, infrequent, expensive and often delayed (in the case of Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia) or even facing total abandonment (in the case of Philippines and Vietnam). In South Asia, India boasts a long network of regular train lines and some luxury tourist trains, high speed rail has thus far never gotten farther than announcements and plans.

 * High-speed rail in China
 * Rail travel in India
 * High speed rail in South Korea
 * Rail travel in Japan

Further information is available about several specific routes:
 * Trans-Siberian Railway (crosses the Europe-Asia border)
 * Jungle Railway in Malaysia
 * Palace on Wheels in India
 * Baikal-Amur Mainline
 * Moscow to Urumqi (From Eastern Europe to Central Asia)
 * Portugal to Singapore by train, the longest train itinerary possible in the world

Europe
Especially in Western and Central Europe, trains are fast, efficient and cost-competitive with air travel. High-speed trains like the French TGV, the German ICE, the Spanish AVE, the Italian Frecciarossa and Italo, and the cross-border Eurostar and Thalys services speed along at up to 320 km/h (200 mph) and, when taking into account travel time to the airport and back (as well as security and tediously long boarding procedures), are often faster than taking the plane. The flip side is that tickets bought on the spot can be expensive, although there are good discounts available if you book in advance or take advantage of various deals. In particular, the Inter Rail (for Europeans) and Eurail (for others) passes offer good value if you plan on traveling extensively around Europe (or even a single region) and want more flexibility than cheap plane tickets or advance purchase train tickets can offer.

The most extensive and most reliable train travel planner for all of Europe is the one belonging to the German railways (DB). Keep in mind that you can buy any train ticket from their website - as long as it begins or ends in Germany.

For further details of European rail travel, see:

 * Rail travel in Europe
 * Rail travel in Germany
 * Rail travel in Ireland
 * Polish narrow gauge railways
 * Rail and bus travel in Sweden
 * Transylvania triangle train tour
 * Rail travel in the United Kingdom

Information about specific routes:
 * Orient Express, Paris to Istanbul
 * West Highland Railway in Scotland

North America
Although it once held much of the continent together, and remains useful for local travel in many metro areas, intercity train travel in the U.S. and Canada now ranges from relatively convenient in the Northeast Corridor and Windsor-Quebec City Corridor, to manageable in California, parts of the Midwest and southeastern Canada, to sparse in other parts of the continent. If you prefer to travel by rail, it's still possible (depending on where you go), but it usually offers neither speed nor convenience. Passes allowing several journeys to be made within the same country are available, but cross-border passes have been phased out. Many train stations do not have ticketing agents, or have agents for brief periods at the time the train is scheduled to arrive. At smaller unmanned stations, you may be able to use a ticketing machine, or may be required to purchase your ticket onboard. You may also purchase tickets online or by telephone.

 * Rail travel in North America
 * Rail travel in Canada
 * Across Canada by train
 * Rocky Mountaineer
 * Rail travel in the United States
 * Amtrak Cascades
 * California Zephyr
 * Empire Builder

Mexico only has two token lines left besides a few suburban train services and metro systems. Plans to build a new high speed rail line were canceled due to the recent drop in oil prices, one of Mexico's most important commodities. However, the Tren Maya project will connect popular tourist areas, opened in 2023 and scheduled to be fully completed by mid 2024, becoming Mexico's newest passenger rail line since its terminal decline due to popularity in car ownership.

Trains still serve an important role in some parts of the Caribbean. In addition, tourist and scenic trains can be found on St. Kitts and Jamaica. Almost all trains on the Central American mainland have ceased operations and those that do still exist provide touristic rather than transport benefits to most people. However talks to revive some lines or build new ones have only been cut short by the recent global economic downturn, and this might change again in the future.

Oceania
Rail travel was the dominant form of long distance travel in Australia up to the 1950s. However, the popularity of private car ownership after World War II resulted in the decline of railways and these days, Australia's rail network is only a shadow of its former self. Many lines have since been abandoned, and the only long distance commuter lines remaining are the ones that link the "big four" cities of Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Perth to the nearby country towns.

Today, rail travel in Australia is a rather expensive proposition and it isn't all that fast either. This is somewhat less true for the more populous east coast. Most lines were built with freight in mind and passenger service has long been an afterthought. That said, a journey by rail from one end of the continent to the other is one of the last adventures and with comfortable sleeper trains, a luxurious one at that.

In New Zealand, the rise and fall of rail travel largely parallels that of Australia and today, rail travel is neither common nor fast, with the exception of some commuter lines around Auckland and Wellington, which together have the lion's share of all rail ridership in the country. Nonetheless, a trip on one of the four (yes that's the total number for the whole country) long distance routes offers breathtaking views of the scenery and a way to get around in style road or air transport can't compete with. A few heritage railways also exist and make the journey itself the destination.

 * Rail travel in Australia
 * Rail travel in New Zealand
 * Across Australia by train

title: Tips for rail travel


text:
Tips for road trips

The longer the journey, and the more it differs from your routine driving, the more important it is to prepare carefully. If you are travelling with children or during the winter, there are special things to consider.

Before leaving

 * Ensure that your license is valid wherever you are planning to drive. Some countries do not recognize foreign licenses or the international driving permit (IDP) (notably China), or only recognize licenses from specific countries. In other countries, foreign or interstate licenses can be used for a period of time, after which you must apply for a local license.
 * If your license is not in the official language of the country you are in, you may need an official translation accompanying it, such as from your country's embassy or verified by a notary public. Driving without a valid license is illegal in most countries, and would generally void your insurance policy in the event of an accident.
 * Make sure that the car is in good condition. You should check the condition of the belts and fluids and make sure that the tires are inflated to the proper pressure.
 * Warning triangles, reflective vests, flashlight, snow brush, ice scraper, doorlock de-icer, locking wheel nut remover (when applicable), emergency puncture repair kit, parking disc and other equipment that you don't normally need may be compulsory or useful.
 * Be sure to have an idea of the conditions ahead (state of the road, weather).
 * Plan ahead. Know where you are going to have to stop for fuel, refreshments and comfort breaks, how long it will take to get there and alternative routes in case of major traffic jams or accidents.
 * Clean your car. Not only this helps with leaving a good impression on the law enforcement you may come across with in foreign lands, it also improves fuel economy due to reduced drag and weight the car has to carry around.
 * Pack the car properly. Stow the luggage so it won't move around or go flying if you have to stop suddenly. The heaviest items should be stowed to the front of the car's stowage space, so they don't squeeze the less heavier items when making sudden stops.
 * Have things you will need, like, passports, driver's license, money and change for parking and road tolls all within easy reach. Also keep your camera and binoculars close at hand.
 * Check whether you have enough fuel in the tank – fill up if you can. In the EU it is allowed for drivers to bring one 20 liter jerrycan as reserve.
 * Even if you have a GPS navigation system in your vehicle, download an off-line map to your smart phone. But do not rely on technology: have a paper map or road atlas too. Consider taking printouts of relevant Wikivoyage destination articles, some other guidebooks and wildlife identification books if appropriate for the trip.
 * Pack some drinking water and snacks. A rule of thumb says to drink at least two liters (half a gallon) of water on days where the weather conditions make you sweat. Have this in mind if the car is without or with broken aircondition. If you have the choice, then mineral water is better than tap water for satiation. Err on the side of caution. Packing too much won't do much harm, but running out late at night or in the middle of nowhere can be uncomfortable or worse.
 * Stay off alcoholic beverages the day before. Even though chemical intoxication can wear off overnight, the hangover affects driving ability.
 * This is also the same for cannabis (if your destination legalized it) and drowsy medicines. Driving under the influence is dangerous and illegal.
 * Try to get a good night's sleep. Driving while tired is almost as dangerous as driving while intoxicated.
 * For longer trips bring a toiletry bag with essentials such as toilet paper, wet tissues, dry tissues and perhaps even a closed potty where to defecate. Most places off the beaten track does not provide a lavatory, and leaving your belongings in the wild is most likely prohibited and will bring you a fine or worse.
 * Some medication does not allow for trips behind the wheel. Make sure to check for this.

While driving

 * Obey local traffic rules.
 * Don't overdo it. Stop for a short break every, or every 2 hours (depending on the road condition and your speed). Step out of the car and stretch your legs for a while. Stop more often when driving in the dark.
 * Pull over if you start feeling drowsy. Stop and have a rest, even a nap. Consider sharing the driving with the others in your company.
 * Be patient; it is better to get there late than never.
 * Pay extra caution to trucks (lorries). Not only their sheer masses makes any accident more dangerous, truckers are often paid by the mile (and their employer by the tonne), and may keep as high speed as possible with overloaded vehicles. Even when otherwise trying to drive safely, this can be a recipe for disaster, especially when road conditions are less than ideal.
 * Follow the "two-second rule": Allow two seconds between you and the car in front; make it four seconds if it is wet or the traffic is heavy. One second is more typical, but is not enough for avoiding accidents (one second is the typical reaction time and allows for no margins).
 * If you are familiar with the metric system, three seconds translates into your speed (in km/h) in meters: if you are driving 80 km/h you should leave (at least) about 80 m of distance to the car in front of you. At city driving speeds half of that may suffice (20 m at 40 km/h). In Germany the general rule as recommended by traffic police is half the speed (in km/h) in meters. Of course this does not apply for very high speeds (130 km/h and above) where you should keep more distance.
 * Distance signs may be erected on expressways, giving you a chance to observe traffic distance, or markings painted on the asphalt for the purpose.
 * A similar rule of thumb for non-metric use is two car-lengths of distance between vehicles for every 10 miles/hour of speed. This gives 1.5 seconds.
 * If you are travelling slowly or towing a trailer, pull over and let cars behind you pass, especially if a queue starts to form behind you.
 * If it is the vehicles in front of you that are slow, and there are few opportunities for safely overtaking, stop for a rest – better for your nerves and for safety. It may also be better that you do overtake, or at least leave plenty of distance to the vehicle in front, to make overtaking safer for those behind you.
 * Pull over and give way to emergency vehicles with flashing lights and sirens activated. This is a legal requirement in many countries. Sometimes stopping may block traffic from passing you, so think first.
 * You may see drivers in some European countries creating long corridors (see the image) to emergency vehicles during congestion. If so, do not use the cleared lane for yourself or trail the emergency vehicles passing through. Return to normal driving only after all emergency vehicles have passed.

Traffic direction

Traffic moves on different sides of the road in different countries. In most parts of the world, such as most of the continental Americas, continental Europe, China, the Middle East and the former Soviet Union, traffic moves on the right side of the road. However in others, most notably the United Kingdom and many former British colonies such as Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, India, South Africa and Malaysia, most smaller states and territories in the Caribbean as well as a few others such as Japan, Indonesia and Thailand, traffic moves on the left side of the road. Usually, cars in areas with right-hand traffic are left-hand drive (i.e. steering wheel on the left side), and cars in areas with left-hand traffic are right-hand drive, though there are exceptions. The arrangement of the pedals is standard worldwide.

Some countries have autonomous territories which occasionally adopt a different traffic direction from the parent country (e.g. Gibraltar (right) vs UK (left), Hong Kong and Macau (both left) vs China (right), US Virgin Islands (left) vs USA (right)). When crossing borders you may sometimes have to change the side of the road you drive on (e.g. Thailand-Cambodia border, Hong Kong-China border, Brazil-Guyana border), and the confusion may be compounded by the fact that the steering wheel is on the "wrong" side of the car after crossing the border.

It may feel awkward at first trying to drive on the opposite side of the road, and with the steering wheel on the other side from what you are used to back home, but after giving yourself time to adapt, it usually does not pose any major issues. You may also encounter road infrastructures (such as toll gates) that are designed to cater to opposite-hand driven vehicles. You may want to start driving slowly on side roads with light traffic while you adapt to driving on the other side for the first time and eventually, it will become more natural the more you drive. You may want to consider renting an automatic car, even if it is cheaper to rent a manual car, as having to adapt to operating the transmission with the other hand could be an unwelcome extra burden.

Congestion
Traffic congestion is one of the most common annoyances for motorists and on many road trips it is simply unavoidable. You could however avoid the daily rush hours, weekend rush hours, days when major holidays start and end, etc., as you probably have different timetable needs from most locals.

Big events such as spectator sports and festivals can be expected to cause congestion.

In some cities driving is bound to be frustrating, as there is congestion most of the day. If there is decent public transport, finding a place to park the car and using the public transport during your stay may save your nerves and possibly also some time. When driving cross-country, avoiding cities is usually a good idea if you prefer to save time, rather than visiting them. If you do decide to visit a city, it can be a welcome change of pace to park the car at a suburban "park & ride" or other suitable parking and use public transportation during your stay in the city. Traffic planners around the globe have built "ring roads" to deal with this kind of traffic and to try and steer it around the city proper. Unfortunately, those ring roads are often the most congested roads of them all. Beijing is a particularly egregious example: it is building a seventh ring road outside the sixth ring road, which is already the longest in the world.

If you do get caught in congestion, try to keep calm. Getting annoyed or frustrated won't help anybody, while skipping the congestion on road shoulders is irresponsible (they are reserved for emergency and breakdown vehicles) and usually illegal. You can also take a break or get off the highway to explore the surrounding area — who knows, this might make for an interesting side trip or intermediate destination that you otherwise wouldn't even have considered.

Rest stops
Sitting for hours in a car strains both body and mind. You should get out of the seat at least every two hours, ideally more often.

When driving, truck stops or rest stops are a convenient option for stretching your legs in some Western countries. You could also plan for including suitable attractions, perhaps taking a walk to a hilltop with nice scenery. In the USA, so called stroads – highways that pass near or directly through downtown areas – offer more opportunity to avoid too much time behind the wheel, while in more densely populated regions such as the Eastern U.S., interstates serve as bypasses but with few rest stops. In Europe, bypass roads are usually faster, but you might want to stop for a café visit or just a walk in the town instead of stopping in the middle of nowhere. You could also sometimes choose a minor road and take your walk in a nice village.

When you stop

 * Stop in a safe place, clear of the traffic lanes, preferably in a lay-by or parking area.
 * Before you lock your car, make sure you have a key in your hand, don't just push the lock buttons and shut the door. A second, spare key (either in your own pocket, or in the possession of a passenger travelling with you) is good protection against inadvertently locking a key in the vehicle.
 * Before leaving your car, make sure it is safe and secure. Check that the headlights are off, valuable personal items are hidden from view or locked away from opportunist thieves, the car is safely parked and wheels turned to the curb if on a slope. Note where it is parked if in a parking lot or unfamiliar area, and check the parking time limits too.
 * Never leave your children or pet animal in the car when the weather is not suited for their comfort: a car soon gets very hot in sunshine when the AC is off, and very cold in cold weather without the heater. In some countries it is permitted for strangers to open your car by force in such cases. You may also face criminal responsibility for child or animal abuse if you thus endanger them.

If you break down

 * Try to get to the hard shoulder or safety zone before the vehicle stops.
 * If you have a flat tire, consider travelling very slowly to a lay-by or side road if there is no room to stop or the shoulder is not level.
 * Turn on the hazard warning lights – if fitted.
 * Turn off the engine and apply the hand brake.
 * Warn other traffic that you have broken down. Check the local road rules for the acceptable ways to do this. Raising the engine hood is one way.
 * Stay by your vehicle, but get out on the side away from the traffic.
 * Call for help – use a cell phone to call the police or traffic authorities and a local automobile breakdown service if you cannot fix the problem yourself. Fixed phones may also be established on expressways for breakdown assistance.

Many countries require you to have a warning triangle to use in case you break down. It is not always a requirement but definitely always a good idea. Leave it at least 50 m (others say 35 yards) behind your car if you break down; on freeways, double this. This will prevent your being rear-ended or causing collisions if you have to stop in an unsafe location. A tow-rope and jumper cables are also handy. A reflective vest is useful if you break down at dusk.

Automobile associations
Various motor clubs or automobile associations provide roadside assistance to members:
 * Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club (ADAC; pronounced Aah-Deh-Aah-Tseh) in Germany
 * The Automobile Association (AA) in the United Kingdom and AA in Ireland
 * Royal Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club (RAA, RAC) in individual Australian states, AA in New Zealand
 * Canadian Automobile Association and American Automobile Association in North America

A membership card is issued for an annual fee. If you break down, call the number provided by the automobile association (such as *CAA or +1-800-AAA-HELP for CAA/AAA members); the motoring club usually has some existing arrangement with a local tow company at a station rate which is cheaper than what a tow company would charge if you (or worse, the police) call them directly while you are stranded at roadside.

Often, members of one automobile association can obtain roadside assistance from a partner organization in another country if a vehicle breaks down while abroad; for instance, an ADAC member could obtain AA assistance in the UK or CAA/AAA assistance in North America. The auto clubs are also a good source for maps, guidebooks, information, travel agency service, passport photos, insurance and travellers' cheques. Some hotels and hotel chains offer discounts for card-carrying members; though these are not always the best available discounts, it is always worth enquiring.

Border crossings

Check with the consulates of the countries you are crossing: there may be special requirements when crossing by car, for example driving from Hong Kong to mainland China requires a change of number plates at the border and a mainland China-issued driving license, In some cases, crossing borders will require you to change the side of the road you drive on (e.g. Hong Kong/mainland China, Thailand/Laos, or UK/mainland Europe).

Some countries (including Mexico) impose specific requirements for customs documents (such as a Carnet de Passage) to prove that a temporarily-imported vehicle will be taken out of the country at the end of a trip. Insurance requirements also differ between countries; don't assume that cover which is valid at home will be honored abroad (Canadian insurance policies usually are valid in the US, but a US/Canada insurance is most likely worthless in Mexico). Even if the policy is valid in the country to which you intend to travel, there may be a higher minimum amount of liability coverage in another jurisdiction or a requirement to carry a specific document in-vehicle as proof of valid insurance. In some countries, the wealthy foreigner is at high risk of being found at fault in any collision.

A rental car firm may refuse to allow their vehicles to be driven to another country (with restrictions prohibiting operation of western European hire cars in eastern Europe or US hire cars in Mexico being common; Argentina does not permit rental cars to leave the country at all).

title: Tips for road trips