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Adrogué

Adrogué is a city and capital of the Almirante Brown partido (district) in Buenos Aires (province) Province in Argentina.

Understand
Adrogué is 23 km south of the City of Buenos Aires. With slightly more than 30,000 inhabitants, it stands out as a distinguished residential area, with numerous cobbled streets, lush trees and several squares. In addition, it has an important commercial center, with a variety of shops and bank entities, and a shopping mall.

The best seasons of the year to visit Adrogué are the spring and the summer, because the city looks really green. The lush trees cast some sort of an arcade over the streets, which makes a beautiful picture. The stillness and peacefulness of the city are an ideal contrast for the chaotic downtown.

Adrogué is not a common tourist destination, but it's worth a visit. The place is safe, but traveling to and from downtown after midnight is just not nice.

By train
Getting in by train is the easiest way to make your way to Adrogué if you're coming from the City of Buenos Aires. From the Constitución train station, you should take a train going either to stations Glew or Alejandro Korn (normally leaving from either platform 4 or 5). You can get from Downtown Buenos Aires to Constitución using the C line of the subway (subte).

A one-way ticket from Constitución to Adrogué costs ARS 0.70 (about USD 0.20) and a return ticket costs ARS 1.40 (about USD 0.40).

The trip from Constitución to Adrogué takes 28 minutes (it may take longer in the rush hour). Adrogué is the ninth station from Constitución. The order of the stations is: Constitución - Hipólito Yrigoyen - Avellaneda - Gerli - Lanús - Remedios de Escalada - Banfield - Lomas de Zamora - Temperley - Adrogué.

The first train from Constitución to either Glew or Alejandro Korn leaves at around 05:00 and the last train from Adrogué to Constitución leaves at around 00:00.

It is not recommended to travel by train as it is usually crowded, and security and cleanliness on the coaches are poor.

By bus
Buses in Argentina are called colectivos. The bus will usually take longer than the train because it makes more detours. However, this will depend on the traffic. The advantage is that buses normally run around the clock.

Near Constitución station you can take any bus 79 except the one which goes to San José (it takes a different route and don't make it to Adrogué).

From Correo Central, close to the Pink House, you can take bus 74.

Bus 160 will also take you to Adrogué from Ciudad Universitaria (UBA campus), Palermo or Jorge Newbery Airport (Aeroparque).

In all cases, you should ask the driver to tell you where to get off.

The ticket costs ARS 1.35 (about USD 0.40) and can only be paid with coins (no banknotes!). Remember to get some before taking the bus.

Getting to Adrogué by bus may take from 1h15min to 1h30min.

By Van
Vans are often called Combis in Argentina. There is a private Combi service traversing from Teatro Colón in the City of Buenos Aires to Adrogué and beyond. The trip usually costs ARS 9.00 and is by far the most comfortable way to travel.

The trip takes about 1 hr, and may take up to 1 hr 30 min during rush hours. It is also possible to reserve your place in advance. - Adrogue Bus (Shuttle Company): 4293-5309

By taxi
A taxi from the City of Buenos Aires (from the Obelisk, for example) to Adrogué costs about ARS 80. This is a good option if you're visiting Adrogué in a group of 3 or 4 people. The trip may take from 50 minutes to 1 hr 15 min depending on traffic conditions.

By car
You can go from the Obelisco in Buenos Aires to Adrogué taking 9 de Julio avenue to the south, then 9 de Julio Sur freeway, and taking Pavón/Yrigoyen avenue. Adrogué starts approximately at 12.500 Yrigoyen avenue.

See
If you are interested in architecture, you'll like the houses in Adrogué. Some nice-looking houses are on Seguí street, for example.

Some of Adrogué's earliest residences are still preserved. They were usually built in French, Italian or English style, and they served as summer houses for many of Buenos Aires wealthiest families between 1870 and 1930. Some of the best examples are the Adrogué Tennis Club, former residence of city founder Esteban Adrogué (Macías & Sánchez streets), the St. Michael's School (Uriburu street & St. Michael's alley)and the former Aráoz Castex residence (Seguí & Avellaneda streets), among others.

There are many parks and squares. Some squares are actually rotaries. The main square is Plaza Brown. The town hall, the church of Saint Gabriel, and a religious school (Colegio del Carmen) are located opposite to it. Connected to it by diagonals are the Bynnon, Espora, Cerreti and Bouchard squares. The square next to the train station is Plaza San Martín.

In the commercial area there's the so-called House of Culture (Casa de la Cultura), with different expositions and plays.

The Boulevard shopping mall is located in Adrogué. You can get there with bus 318 (will leave you close to it) or by taxi (remise).

Eat

 * Artisanal Ice Cream Riviera, Esteban Adrogué 1180. both bar and icecream parlor, is one the most important companies in the region. They produce high-quality icecream, desserts and chocolate at competitive prices. They are open all through the year (except for the chocolate shop, which closes during the summer). Locals usually get together for an icecream (it's not uncommon to have a quarter kilo, which costs ARS 6.00). The flavor dulce de leche granizado is a must.
 * As a snack, you can try the alfajor Capitán del espacio (blanco), one of the preferred ones by the locals. It costs about ARS 0.50 and all the kiosks sell it.
 * As a snack, you can try the alfajor Capitán del espacio (blanco), one of the preferred ones by the locals. It costs about ARS 0.50 and all the kiosks sell it.
 * As a snack, you can try the alfajor Capitán del espacio (blanco), one of the preferred ones by the locals. It costs about ARS 0.50 and all the kiosks sell it.

The restaurants are located in or close to the commercial center, which in turn is located a few meters east of the train station. All of them offer good service, good-quality food and fair prices. Some of the most renowned restaurants are:
 * Trote bar & restaurant, Esteban Adrogué 1107, Paseo la Delicia, is one of the most important restaurants in Adrogué, and is surrounded by a beautiful garden.
 * María Bonita pizza and restaurant, Mitre 1195, a very nice and popular place.
 * La Zorra, the pasta they serve is said to be really good.
 * Tirifilo el Bodegon, in the corner of Spiro and Cordero. Spaniard (Tapas, Paella, Cazuela, Pulpo a la gallega), some Argentinian traditional dishes ( Locro on national holidays), and our own Porteño flavor (Puchero on Tuesday nights) . A new must in the Adrogue station area.
 * Tirifilo el Bodegon, in the corner of Spiro and Cordero. Spaniard (Tapas, Paella, Cazuela, Pulpo a la gallega), some Argentinian traditional dishes ( Locro on national holidays), and our own Porteño flavor (Puchero on Tuesday nights) . A new must in the Adrogue station area.

Drink
All the restaurants also serve drinks and work as bars. There are also many pubs and bars like La Maja, Bernie's, Franz, Cándida, Havanna, Satchmo's, La Bikina, La Colorada and more. There are also a few tea houses.

title: Adrogué


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Aegadian Islands

The Aegadian Islands or Egadi Islands (Italian: Isole Egadi) are a group of three islands about 10 km west of Trapani and Marsala on the north-western coast of Sicily in Italy.

Islands

 * Favignana – the main island, well known for its beaches
 * Levanzo – small, quiet and pretty
 * Marettimo – the furthest from Sicily, with fewer boats; attractive and good for walks

By boat
Siremar (ferry) and Liberty Lines (hydrofoil) run car ferries and much quicker hydrofoils from Trapani to all three islands – lots in summer, with fewer during spring, autumn and winter and on Sundays. Liberty Lines also run from Marsala to Favignana and Marettimo. The first ferries leave for Favignana between 07:00 and 07:30. The last ferry departs Favignana for Trapani at 20:00. The last ferry to Marsala leaves at 17:00. Tickets can be purchased from kiosks at the port. Arrive early for the evening return ferries, particularly on the weekends, as they sell out at times. Fares are between and  each way.

Several operators run all-day excursions to the islands from Trapani. Typically they visit two islands, giving you time to spend on the islands, and stops in bays where you can swim off the boat, with lunch provided on board. Prices are around for excursions to Favignana and Levanzo, and  to Favignana and Marettimo. The boats leave from the part of Trapani port between Via XXX Gennaio and Via Rallo and you can buy tickets there or at other outlets around the old town. To be sure of getting a ticket at busy times, you might want to book the day before.

Get around
Levanzo and Marettimo are small enough to walk around. Most people hire bikes on Favignana to get to the beaches on the south coast.

See
Scogliera di Cala Rossa, beautiful rocky beach on Favignana island renowned for the crystal clear water and the amazing view.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Aegadian Islands


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Aegean Turkey

A land of beautiful vistas over the sea, lovely evening breezes, and majestic sunsets, Aegean Turkey (Turkish: Ege Bölgesi) is the western part of the country, including the Aegean Sea coast across from a wide arch of Greek islands and the adjoining inland areas.

Cities

 * — Turkey’s third biggest city is a busy harbour and the unofficial capital of the region
 * — a pleasant village with preserved traditional buildings and the impressive Temple of Athena overlooking the sea
 * — a beautiful town with a distinctive Eastern Mediterranean architecture
 * — the extensive ruins of ancient Pergamon are a must-see
 * — a trendy resort known for its Templar-built castle and parties going wild
 * — a historic town and beach resort on a peninsula stretching far west
 * — an unspoilt town; the nearby ancient city of Knidos forms the boundary between the Aegean and the Mediterranean
 * — an inland city serving as a hub to Pamukkale, and nearby ancient sites
 * — a busy resort town with an island citadel; its port welcomes the Mediterranean cruises

Other destinations

 * are the great ruins of an ancient city founded in honour of the goddess of love.
 * is perhaps the wildest stretch of land on the Turkish Aegean coast, with lush forests, hiking trails and desolate beaches.
 * is the best preserved of the ancient cities in Turkey, and once the capital of Roman Asia Minor.
 * the "cotton castle" is a white world of travertines.
 * are a trio of ancient Greek ruins.
 * is the ruins of the capital of the Lydians, the inventors of "money", backed by craggy Mount Tmolos.

Understand

The Aegean coast of Turkey is lined by a succession of modern cities with palm-lined avenues and liberal attitudes, towns with old quarters that are filled with elegant turn of the 20th century neo-classical architecture, and ruins of what were once major powers of the Mediterranean in ancient times; all backed by fertile valleys and hills, the sides of which are dotted with picturesque villages and large oliveyards, which help Turkey achieve being one of the biggest producers of olive oil in the world. It's little wonder that much of ancient art and philosophy—from Aristotle to Homer, many were citizens of cities along this coast—was developed in this land of wine and honey, which has a favourable climate year round.

During the Roman era, Aegean Turkey and the neighbouring parts of Central Anatolia constituted the Province of Asia (hence "the Seven Churches of Asia", see below). The name of the province was later extended to include all of the continent that lies to the east.

The climate is Mediterranean, and often very typically so; hot, dry summers (around 30-35°C during the day, 1-2 days of rain a month), warm transitional seasons, and mild, wet winters (around 10-15°C during the day, 8-16 days of rain a month). There is still some climatic variance within the region, however. Cities further inland have chillier winters, with some possibility of snow; while also contending with summers featuring daytime temperature averages over 35°C.

Talk
Turkish is the main language in the region. Native Greek speakers of Cretan origin formed the majority in many coastal areas, but since the 1980s, the links with Crete are more folkloric than linguistic.

As tourism is one of the main industries of the region, finding someone who can communicate in English or German to a lesser degree is generally not a problem.

Get in

 * Most of the tourism-oriented towns have direct bus services from many other important centres of the country, such as Istanbul.
 * The major airports of this region are located in/near Izmir, Bodrum, and Dalaman. All handle a number of international flights as well as much more frequent domestic (national) flights.
 * Most large hotels, tour operators and car rental companies located in the provinces of Izmir and Bodrum.
 * All major coastal towns have ferry links with the nearest Greek islands.
 * Major hub of the region for rail transport is Izmir.

See

The Aegean has the highest concentration of ancient city ruins in Turkey, which should be no surprise given that this was the heart of the Greek Aeolian and Ionian, and indigenous Lydian and Carian civilizations. Expect to come across with another set of ruins as close to each other as every 10 or so kilometers. Some, such as Ephesus—very possibly the best preserved ancient ruins in all of the Mediterranean basin, except for Pompeii—still exhibit much of their former glory, while others may not seem to be offering much more than a pile of collapsed marble columns at first sight. In addition to Ephesus, other likely contenders to be on the checklist of many travellers to the region include Assos, Pergamon, Miletus, and Didyma, but some often overlooked sites such as Sardis, and Aphrodisias are also well worth a visit. Besides, as most of the still-inhabited cities and towns in the region are merely modern versions of ancient cities (it's hard to find a city younger than 3000 years old in the region after all), it's always possible to see yet another unexpected bit of ancient ruins, even within a city as modern-looking as Izmir.

When the fatigue from visiting one ancient city after another sets in, it might be time to look for medieval Seljuk and Ottoman architecture that some of the Turkish regions are known for. However, the scorched earth policy of the retreating Greek army in the final days of Greco-Turkish War of 1919-1922, or the War of Independence as known in Turkey, left many Aegean towns in rubbles, and the concrete-mania of the following decades didn't certainly help either. Regardless, the often unexplored inland village of Birgi southeast of Izmir is one of the places that happily escaped such destruction, and its Çakıroğlu Konağı, a three-storey mansion that is colourfully painted inside-out is a rare treat for architecture enthusiasts. It may also be possible to visit the odd mosque that dates back to the days of the Turkish frontier principalities (which rose to power after the central Seljuk authority vanished with the Mongol invasion in the 13th century), which has a unique post-Seljuk, yet pre-Ottoman transitionary style, one great example being the İsa Bey Mosque in Selçuk. Fans of neo-classicism are luckier, as the coastal towns that used to be inhabited by the Ottoman Greeks and have been full of neo-classical buildings were left intact—Ayvalık, Foça, Alaçatı, and Çeşme are the towns that you should head to if this is what you are after.

So many years of wars and invasions mean that the castles and citadels are an unmissable mark of the regional landscape. Those that are in Bodrum, Kuşadası, and Çeşme quite form the symbol of their respective towns, while the small picturesque castle of the coastal village of Çandarlı, surrounded by well-manicured grasses, is one of the main attractions of the surrounding area. However, if you are looking for something really impressive and really off-the-beaten path, head for Babakale ("the father castle"), which has been proudly standing on the westernmost tip of the Asian mainland for centuries.

Seven Churches of Asia

Aegean Turkey played a major role in the development of early Christianity, and of particular note are the Seven Churches of Asia: Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamon, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia, and Laodicea. While the prophecies didn't refer to physical churches, and only Pergamon, Ephesus, and Philadelphia have Roman-era churches remaining, all of these cities have ruins of some kind, and Sardis has the ruins of a synagogue. Apart from Izmir (Smyrna), which doesn't have much in the way of Roman ruins, but is one of Turkey's major cities, the most popular of these cities are Ephesus and Pergamon, with Sardis and Laodicea coming in far behind, and Akhisar (Thyatira) and Alaşehir (Philadelphia) are almost never visited by tourists (except the handful seeking to see the Seven Churches). While Akhisar and Alaşehir's Roman-era ruins are minimal compared Ephesus, Pergamon, Sardis, or even Laodicea, these cities are still interesting to visit, as they remain local farming centers, with strikingly different feels.

All of these cities except for Pergamon can be reached (or the nearest city, no more than a 20 minute minibus ride away can be reached), by train, however except for Selçuk (Ephesus) and Denizli (Laodicea) the trains run only a few times a day, and the schedules may be inconvenient.
 * Selçuk and Denizli can both be reached by the regional Denizli-Izmir train. Minibuses, taxis, or a long walk will be required to reach both sites from their associated cities.
 * Sardis (Sart on the schedule) and Alaşehir can be reached by the regional Izmir-Uşak train. The train station for Alaşehir is in the center of two, while the location of Sart station seems to be slightly over a kilometer from the gymnasium complex.
 * Akhisar can be reached by the either the 6 Eylül or 17 Eylül express between Izmir and Bandirma, each of which runs only once a day. The station itself is seven blocks, or about 400 meters, from the ruins.

It is also possible to take buses or minibuses between the cities. In Izmir, the buses run to each of these cities at intervals ranging from every half hour (Bergama/Pergamon) to every two hours (Alaşehir). It's likely that buses between the other cities will be less frequent, so if you plan to make a loop around Izmir, ask at the bus station when the buses to your next city run.

Do
With its long craggy coastline, finding somewhere for a swim is rarely a daunting task in the region. As for the related watersports, some towns are better suited to them than some others; for example the waters of Alaçatı are good for windsurfing.

With the Mediterranean climate in charge, and the latitude being more southern than most of Europe, there is not much room for wintersports in the region (in coastal locations, it only snows once, and lightly, every decade—this is why the locals find the pictures of the amphitheatre of Ephesus under snow so magical and make them into postcards). While the snow-hungry residents of Izmir flock to Mount Spylus near Manisa at every opportunity to witness the snowfall, that particular mountain does not really receive that much as to let skiing or doing other snow-related sports. For these, it may be more worthwhile to head more inland to Mt. Bozdağ, or ancient Mount Tmolos between Salihli and Ödemiş, which, with its mountain lake, is beautiful regardless the season.

When it comes to thermal waters, the Aegean is less known as a destination than some other Turkish regions. Two places of note may be Ilıca, which has hot springs discharging from the sea floor inside natural rocky pools, and much more famous Pamukkale, which offers the unique experience of swimming amidst toppled ancient columns lying at the bottom of a thermal water-filled pool, which has been continuously in use for millennia.

Drink
While viticulture is a big business in the agricultural interior of the region, most of the produce is of the Sultana variety, which is not processed into wine, but rather exported as dried raisin. Nevertheless, a number of towns around Denizli has some level of fame for their red wines which often have a strong flavour, while the village of Şirince is well-known nationwide for its wines produced out of just about any fruit that can be imagined.

One drink that is unique to the region is the sübye of Tire, oddly made of melon seeds.

While some of the inland towns might be a little bit more conservative than those on the coast, you are never too far away from a bottle of Efes lager whenever you are thirsty in the region.

Go next
If the sea, sun, and ancient cities here are not enough, why not moving on southeast to Mediterranean Turkey?

title: Aegean Turkey


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Aegina

Aegina (Greek: Αίγινα) is one of the Saronic Gulf Islands, a triangle 11 km on each side. It's the closest island to Athens, reached in barely an hour by ferry, and in 2011 had a population of 13,056. The main reasons to visit are to escape the city heat for an agreeable old port, and to see the temple of Aphaea. It feels more like a beach suburb than a Greek island, and it can get busy, but most visitors are from the city.

Towns and villages

 * Aegina is also the name of the main town and ferry port - and to avoid confusion it's referred to as "Aegina town" on this page. It's mainly geared for day-trippers, with some accommodation but lots of restaurants, and the Temple of Apollo is 500 m north.
 * (Σουβάλα) is the main village of the beach and resort strip along the north coast.
 * (Αγία Μαρίνα) is a small harbour on the east coast near the Temple of Aphaea.
 * (Πέρδικα) is a resort village near the south tip of the island.

Understand
In legend Aegina was a goat-nymph, though it was almighty Zeus who acted the prize goat with his predatory sex adventures. Aegina was carried off to the island that now bears her name (maybe not unwillingly) and bore Zeus a son Aeacus, who became king. Hera the wife of Zeus tended to blame the other women rather than her hubby, and wiped out the island population by plague. However Aeacus prayed to Zeus to convert the teeming ants into humans, the myrmidons, a sort-of warrior caste - honestly, how many of us would have thought of doing that?

In the 7th to 5th centuries BC Aegina was a maritime trading state and its currency, embossed with a sea turtle and later a land tortoise, circulated widely in the Hellenistic world. Trade rivalry with Athens escalated into war, the island suffered a massacre in 424 BC, and this time the trick with the ants somehow couldn't be repeated. Aegina lost its importance and fell under the sway of other city-states, passing (as did Athens) into Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman control. It has some agriculture but little industry, and has long been a holiday retreat for Athenians.

Get in
Frequent ferries ply from Piraeus port in Athens to Aegina town. Hydrofoils for foot passengers take 40 min, single fare €14, conventional vessels for cars and motorbikes take 70 min, single fare €10.

In normal times hydrofoils sail hourly 07:00-17:00, some continuing from Aegina to Agistri, Poros or Methana. In April 2020 only conventional vessels are sailing once or twice a day, reserved for residents and essential visitors and not available to tourists. The ferry operators are Hellenic Seaways, Alpha Lines,ANES Ferries and Saronic Ferries.

is at the heart of the town. Ferries dock on the west pier, cruise ships on the east pier, and small craft use the inner harbour. There's lots of nearby cafes.

Direct ferries from Athens (Piraeus port) to Souvala and Agia Marina were axed in 2019.

Get around
There are five car rental agencies near the harbour, which also have motorbikes and scooters - book ahead to ensure availability. Some of their offerings are dilapidated.

For a day trip, you might do better to hire a taxi. The driver knows the roads, where to park and how much time to allow to return you to the ferry pier, and will regale you with what his great-grandmother got up to during the war.

Buses on the island are a limited service to enable villagers to get into town for essentials then get home. They are not well-designed for sightseeing outings, but it's possible given boundless patience. The three routes all start from the bus stand by the harbour, and take at most 30 min to the end of the line. A single ticket is €2, pay cash as you board. Destinations are only shown in Greek but if in doubt, get on and ask the driver.
 * - Route 1 (yellow) follows the north coast, Aegina town - Kipseli - Vathi - Souvala - Agii - Vagia, with three M-F and two Sa Su.
 * - Route 2 (blue) runs east across the island, Aegina town - Agios Nektarios - Aphaia Temple - Agia Marina. These run M-F with three outbound buses passing the temple. Two others turn off after Agios Nektarios along the lane via Alones to Agia Marina and don't pass near the temple, but they return that way, so there are five return services.
 * - Route 3 (orange) follows the coast southwards, Aegina town - Faros - Marathonas - Aeginitissa - Perdika, with three M-F and two Sa Su.

See

 * Churches worth a look in town are St Nicholas Chapel (on west pier, the whitewashed building just as you step off the ferry), Isodia Theotokou (which you'll see even earlier from the boat, as it looms over the harbour), the Cathedral (on Mitropoleos) and Fanomeri (1 km inland and underground; it's often closed).
 * Landmarks and secular buildings in town are Government House (next to the cathedral, a modest 2-story building that in 1828/29 housed the newly independent Greek government until they could get set up in Athens), Eynardio (1830 building next to the cathedral), Tower of Markellos (a pink watchtower on Thomaidou) and the Kapodistrian Orphanage southside (looking uncannily like a prison, which it was).
 * The writer Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957), best known for Zorba the Greek, lived on-and-off in Aegina from 1933 and built an idiosyncratic house on the northwest tip 200 m north of the Kapralos museum. It's now a private dwelling and you can't tour inside.
 * The writer Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957), best known for Zorba the Greek, lived on-and-off in Aegina from 1933 and built an idiosyncratic house on the northwest tip 200 m north of the Kapralos museum. It's now a private dwelling and you can't tour inside.
 * The writer Nikos Kazantzakis (1883-1957), best known for Zorba the Greek, lived on-and-off in Aegina from 1933 and built an idiosyncratic house on the northwest tip 200 m north of the Kapralos museum. It's now a private dwelling and you can't tour inside.
 * along the road to Agia Marina is a large, elaborate, modern Orthodox church and monastery. It's dedicated to Metropolitan St Nektarios (Anastasios Kephalas 1846-1920), a monk who ministered in Cairo, Libya and Athens before retiring to Aegina. From the church, a path leads uphill to Paleochora (Old Town), the island's earlier capital with Byzantine architecture.
 * , on a hilltop in the middle of the island, is reached by a lane winding south from Agios Nektarios. It's nowadays a convent, open 07:00-14:00 and 16:00-18:30.
 * Agios Minas is a small convent 300 m southwest of the Temple of Aphaea, visitors welcome.
 * There are dozens more churches across the island: look out for Agios Christophoros, Agia Anastasia, Pachia Rachi, Agia Ekaterina, and Omorphi.
 * Perdika is a fishing village on the north prong of a peninsula at the southwest tip of the island. Most of it is nondescript modern breeze-block, but there's a pleasant cafe strip by the harbour and a scenic lane round the headland, with views towards Epidaurus. The south prong is scrub grazed by goats and donkeys, and officially off-limits. At the end of it, a cylindrical building is a 360-degree camera obscura: wait five minutes for your eyes to adjust within, and the whole landscape slowly appears on the round wall, upside down.
 * is the bosky island just west of Perdika, 1 km long and reached by a 10-min water taxi. There's a beach bar at the landing point but it's otherwise uninhabited. The deer will come looking for handouts.
 * off Aegina's northeast tip is the other island, a wooded 100 m place flanked by two smaller outcrops, and seldom visited. Zoodochos Pigi there is not a menagerie for wild boar but a modern church: it means "life-giving spring" and is a common Greek place-name.
 * off Aegina's northeast tip is the other island, a wooded 100 m place flanked by two smaller outcrops, and seldom visited. Zoodochos Pigi there is not a menagerie for wild boar but a modern church: it means "life-giving spring" and is a common Greek place-name.

Do

 * Beaches: the best are Souvala on the north coast, Agia Marina to the east, Marathonas 5 km south of Aegina town, and Perdika.
 * Climb the highest peak on Aegina at 532 m, helpfully called Oros which is Greek for "mountain". It's 5 km southeast of town, follow Lefkis road towards Anitseo. The well-marked path leads past the remains of a temple to Zeus and takes 45 min. From the top there's a panorama over the Saronic Gulf.

Eat

 * Aegina town waterfront is lined with cafes. Good choices are Flisvos north of the pier (daily 10:00-00:00) and Pantarei on the harbour (daily 07:30-03:00).
 * Agia Marina has Pita Tom (daily 12:00-00:00), where souvlaki and gyros are fresh and inexpensive.
 * Perdika, at the southwest tip of the island, has a whole row of good tavernas.
 * Vagia has

Drink

 * Perdikiotika at 38 Apheas in Aegina town has charming decor and casual food.
 * Bartan and Barrera are on Irioti north end of Aegina harbour, with Belle Epoque on Pileos a couple of blocks inland.
 * The rest of the island doesn't do free-standing bars, head for one of the waterfront tavernas.

Buy

 * Aegina pistachios (φιστίκια, fistiki) are distinctive and have PDO status - "Protected Designation of Origin". The shell is paler and a bit more closed than, say, US cultivars. The kernel is red-green with an intense sweet taste. Buy them at any wayside kiosk; try them with salt and lemon juice to balance the sweetness.
 * The fish market is in a pungent alley by the harbour. It's open daily 06:00-21:00.

Sleep

 * The main accommodation strip starts north of Aegina town and straggles along the coast through Souvala to Vagia. Other clusters are around Agia Marina and Perdika.

Stay safe

 * Take care with sun protection and keeping hydrated - the sea breeze is cooling so you don't realise how sun-frazzled you're getting.

Connect
As of Aug 2022, Aegina town has 4G from all Greek carriers, but the signal becomes patchy 3 km out. You might pick up 5G from Pireaus on the ferry.

Go next

 * Most routes mean taking the ferry back to the mainland. Pireaus port is worth a few hours of your time before heading into Central Athens.
 * Seasonal ferries continue from Aegina town to the island of Agistri and to Poros and Methana on the Epidaurus mainland.

title: Aegina


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Aeolian Islands

The Aeolian islands (Italian: Isole Eolie, Sicilian: Ìsuli Eoli, Greek: Αιολίδες Νήσοι), aka Lipari Islands, are a group of attractive islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea about 25-50 km north of Sicily in Italy. This diverse group of volcanic islands used to be off the beaten track, but they are becoming more popular and can be very busy during July and August. The islands are inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Talk
Although local dialects of Sicilian are spoken among the locals, the traveller will find that standard Italian is also spoken by most people. Those involved in the tourist trade may also speak some English, German, or French. Cellular telephone coverage is dependable in the settled areas, but access to the internet is rare. There are a few internet cafes in Lipari Town.

Get in
There are frequent car ferries and much quicker hydrofoils from Milazzo and Messina on Sicily, and from Reggio di Calabria on the mainland, to and between the islands. Most call first at Lipari, and then proceed to the other islands. Ferries are frequent in summer, with fewer during spring, autumn and winter and a reduced service year-round on Sundays. For timetables see SIREMAR, Ustica Lines and NGI. Check the timetables in advance, and allow plenty of time for connections, as boats can be early or late.

A few car ferries a week also continue on to Naples (see SNAV) and during the summer hydrofoils run from Naples, Cefalù, Palermo and Messina.

The Aeolian Islands are quite remote, which is part of their appeal. No air travel is available to the archipelago, except for the very expensive helicopter service which runs during high season from the Catania airport. For more information see Air Panarea or HeliJet. Most international travellers, then, will arrive at the airport of either Palermo or Catania airport in Sicily, or Reggio di Calabria, across the straits of Messina on the mainland.

Although the Reggio airport is relatively near the port, boats from Reggio are infrequent. Likewise, only a few ferries per day run from Palermo during high season, and the airport is far from the city. These ports are best used by the traveller who is already in Italy, as is Naples, a much longer boat trip that is convenient for travelers arriving by plane or train in Naples from points north. For the traveller arriving directly from abroad, numerous budget airlines have routes from around Europe to Catania. From there, one can take the train, or an express bus, to Messina, connecting to a boat; or, at Messina, one can connect to a second train or bus to Milazzo, which has by far the most boat departures. Although it is convenient to change trains in Messina, the Milazzo train station is a few miles from the port. On the other hand, the bus from Catania arrives at the train station, while the bus for Milazzo departs from a separate bus station a few blocks away. Ask for help at the information booth outside the train station. One express bus per day departs from Catania airport for Milazzo, but arrives there so late as to miss the boat for certain of the islands. You may wish to spend the first night in Lipari, with its charming town, and then depart for the outlying islands. As another alternative, the car rental agencies have special deals allowing the traveller the use of a car one-way from Catania to Milazzo - inquire in advance as these deals may not be available without reservations. The car rental agencies in Milazzo are a few blocks from the port. Cars can be left for a few days easily in Milazzo when visiting the islands, just park them in any parking place with blue borders (blue border indicates no parking fee or time limit on parking)

Get around
The larger islands, Lipari, Vulcano and Salina have quite good bus services. Timetables are available at the tourist offices in each island's port. Those islands also have scooters for rent, and are the only of the islands with comprehensive systems of roads. Panarea and Stromboli are small enough to have no roads or automobiles to speak of; Panarea in particular is completely accessible by foot. Alicudi and Filicudi are so remote that they have little in the way of developed tourist industries or infrastructure. On those islands, transport from the port, and scooter rental, should be arranged with one's innkeeper. Boat rental is also popular for touring the periphery of each island; although the small boats for rent are not adequate for travel between the islands, but are popular for the excursion from Panarea to the islets of Basiluzzo and Drauto.

See
Vulcano is the first port of call for ferries from Milazzo. As well as the spectacular view of the narrow channel between this island and neighbouring Lipari, you're also greeted with the strange sight of a stack of sulphurous oozings, right by the harbour, with an accompanying smell! Disembarking, you can follow the road between that stack and a huge red rock, sulphurous fumes hissing out of the side of the pavement, to one of the island's main attractions. Next to the beach, the locals have created a hollow in the volcanic clay that is filled with yellow mud. After bathing in the mud, you can swim in the sea and wash it all off. Swimming here is a very special experience, because the fumaroles extend right out into the sea, bubbling up hot gas and giving the sensation of being in a jacuzzi, in the blue Mediterranean!

The other main attraction on Vulcano is, you guessed it, the volcano! A steep climb from the town, you can walk to the summit of the island for a spectacular view of the other Aeolian Islands. If you have closed footwear, you can traverse the active vents on the north side of the main crater on your way to the top. Here, a great deal of steam and smelly gas is given off, and you can observe large sulphur crystals in the vents. Be careful not to burn your feet on the hot rocks and steam.

Lipari is relatively pedestrian in comparison with exotic Vulcano. Fortunately, it has less exotic prices, and the large main town has a nice old quarter and a decent quota of non-tourist shops. Among the attractions on Lipari is the pumice quarry, reached from the main town by an infrequent bus service. This is right by the sea, and has a nice rocky beach where, interestingly, many of the rocks tend to float off into the sea!

Stromboli is the most spectacular of the islands, as it's the only one that is volcanically active. In fact, it's the only volcano in the world that is known to have been continuously active throughout recorded history. The approach by ferry from Lipari takes one past the sheer sides of the island that rise towards the summit crater, which is permanently shrouded in clouds of its own making. Stromboli town has pretty narrow streets and, further from the centre, beautiful black sand beaches in rocky coves. The must-see attraction is the night-time climb up to the crater. The going is tough (you will be climbing approximately 850 m) but you will see an amazing sunset and the eruptions are incredible. The trip is rounded off by running down the volcanic ash slopes, in the dark!

Do
Most visitors to Vulcano spend time in the mud baths near the port. Entry is inexpensive and free in the low season. You may find it worthwhile to purchase a token for the shower. The water gives you a powerful sulphurous odor which lasts for a few days or even weeks.

About 20 m from the mudbaths there's also volcanic activity out in the sea. The effect is that the water in the sea is literally boiling.

title: Aeolian Islands


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Afandou

Afandou is on the Greek island of Rhodes. It is an attractive traditional Greek village surrounded by beautiful countryside. For a complete change of pace and scenery, the hectic resort of Faliraki is only a short distance away.

Understand
Afandou mainly attracts families and couples who like to relax during the day and have a central location in Rhodes Island. It's one of the biggest traditional villages in Rhodes. Here you'll find numerous bars, cafes, taverns restaurants and clubs. The local cuisine has always been one of the strong points of hospitality and culture in Afandou.

History
Founded in the days when pirates were ravaging the Mediterranean, it is said that the village owes its name to the place where it was built. A place that was afanto, or afando " Άφαντο" which in Greek means invisible from the sea.

Get in
The main air gateway (Diagoras International Airport is located to the southwest of Rhodes in Paradisi, Approximately 20 km distance from Afandou.

See
PAPA OUZO - an elderly gentleman who likes to dance and drink ouzo... See him at Greek Night in Afandou...

Do

 * Golf
 * Swimming and sunbathing

Buy
Olive Oil, seasonal fruits, souvenir.

Eat
There are many traditional restaurants, cafeterias with snack, Gyros and Souvlaki shops. In Kolymbia you can visit a restaurant with authentic German and Austrian cuisine.

Sleep
There are many self-catering lodgings and hotels. Afandou is only a short distance away from Kolimbia (Kolymbia) area. Kolimbia started to develop only a few years ago, and has managed to maintain its natural beauty also the traditional Greek Island look. Here, you will find some of the finest hotels and apartments on the island. There are plenty of traditional Greek taverns and restaurants, clubs, cafes and they are most favorite amongst the local people.

Go next
Tsampika beach, a 10-minute drive south from Afandou. Enjoy a nice winding drive down from the main road to the long sandy beach surrounded by the rocky scenic hills. Turquoise waters and golden sands create a beautiful scene, ideal to relax and enjoy the sun. Water sports are available as well as a mini-market and several small snack and drinks bars.

 * Faliraki area and its water park.

title: Afandou


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Afghanistan

Afghanistan is a landlocked country at the crossroads of Central and South Asia. The country shares borders with Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Iran, Pakistan, China, and the disputed Kashmir territory.

Once the centre of many powerful empires, the country has been in chaos and turmoil since the 1970s. Political unrest is rampant, and the country suffers from many social problems, such as war, drought, a public health crisis, terrorism, corruption, warlordism, poverty, and low literacy rates.

However, under less extreme circumstances, this vast, mountainous country offers a lot to the adventurous, thrill-seeking traveller. Its landscapes are simply majestic, the history lover can appreciate numerous historical sites from all eras, and the architecture lover can feast their eyes on such wonderful Islamic architecture. There's even a shrine that houses a cloak once worn by Prophet Muhammad, the founder of Islam.

Afghanistan is a melting pot of cultures, with Pashtuns, Tajiks, Hazaras, and Uzbeks constituting the largest ethnic groups. Islam is the state religion, hence the name "Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan". A majority of Afghans are Sunni Muslims, although about 20% of them are Shia Muslims.

Under less dire circumstances for the country, tourists might find themselves being treated as celebrities here; in fact, they might be showered with a lot of hospitality and care, even if they unintentionally make a few cultural blunders.

Regions
The south and east are predominantly Pushtun and the Hindu Kush mountain area has many Hazara, but all regions have considerable mixing of ethnic groups.

English spellings of Afghan place names vary as there is no regulation of names when written in the Latin script. For example, Q may replace K as in Qandahar or Qunduz. Kunduz will be seen spelled as Konduz, Qunduz, Qundoz, Qundoze and variations on these. Bamiyan is often spelled as Bamian or Bamyan. Khowst may be spelt as Khost.

Cities

 * - in the east, the capital city

 * – once one of the greatest cities in the region and capital of ancient Bactria. Although much of it lies in ruins, the remaining architectural and cultural elements are little changed since Alexander the Great set foot there.
 * - The remains of the Buddhas. Once considered one of the wonders of the world, these tall stone carvings were destroyed by the Taliban in a notorious act of cultural vandalism.
 * - in the south-east, between Kabul and Kandahar
 * - in the west, gateway to Iran, has a strong Persian influence and several interesting historical sites
 * - in the east, between Kabul and the Khyber Pass
 * - a very conservative city in the south. Known as the home of the Taliban.
 * - a major city in the northeast, and crossing point to Tajikistan
 * - home to the impressively tiled Blue Mosque, and the staging point for trips into Uzbekistan. Ethnically diverse, Mazar is considered the most liberal city in the country after Kabul.

Other destinations

 * – 5 stunningly turquoise lakes in a remote and beautiful setting not far from Bamiyan
 * – the gateway to India and historic route of invasion and trade
 * – well off the beaten path but some say worth the journey – possible as a roundtrip from Herat or when traversing the Central Route from Herat to Kabul
 * - an isolated mountain area with its own culture
 * – a beautiful trekking area leading to the famous Anjuman Pass
 * – a high mountain pass and tunnel linking Kabul to the north
 * – a green plain north of Kabul that produced a lot of the food for central Afghanistan. From Kabul it extends north through Charikar, Parwan province to Jabal os Saraj. The Taliban destroyed the irrigation systems and it is just beginning to recover.
 * – one of Afghanistan's most isolated areas, with soaring mountains and unique culture

Understand

Afghanistan has been in the news since the late 1970s for all the wrong reasons. While visiting has not been advisable for many years, it has much to offer the intrepid traveller. However, even the more adventurous tourists should consider looking elsewhere for thrill-seeking.

History

Afghanistan borders Persia, Central Asia and South Asia, and various Silk Road routes cross it to connect those regions. It has been described as "the crossroads of Asia" and has history of trade going back to before 2000 BCE.

The country has a long history of conflict – raiding and banditry, battles between tribes, and resistance against invaders including several Persian Empires, Alexander the Great, the Arabs during the great expansion of Islam (starting with their capture of Herat in 652 CE and spread over several centuries), the Mongol Empire in the 13th century, and the British Empire in the 19th. Its recent history is no exception: the Soviet Union invaded late in the 20th century and a U.S.-led coalition invaded early in the 21st.

The Afghans have given all invaders trouble; the country has been so difficult to conquer that it is known as the Graveyard of Empires.

The modern-day country was founded by secession from the Persian Empire in 1709. Since then, there have been several dynasties and at times the Afghans ruled what are now Iran, Iraq, most of Pakistan and parts of India. Mohammed Zahir Shah was the last king, ruling from 1933 until 1973, when the constitutional monarchy was overthrown in a coup and the country became a republic.

In the late 19th century, Afghanistan became a buffer state in the "Great Game" between the British Empire and the Russian Empire. After the Second Anglo-Afghan War Britain gained control of Afghanistan's foreign relations as part of the Treaty of Gandamak of 1879. In 1893, the ethnic Pashtun and Baloch territories were divided between Britain and Afghanistan by the Durand Line, which forms the modern-day border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. Afghanistan became fully independent from the British in 1919.

In the 1960s and early 70s, Afghanistan was a popular destination for adventurous travellers, part of the "Hippie Trail" Istanbul to New Delhi overland route. Dirt cheap, culturally fascinating and with plenty of excellent hashish; what more could a hippie want? However, it has not been anywhere close to safe since the Russian invasion of 1979.

A coup in 1978 brought a socialist regime to power, but they were by no means universally accepted; some of their officials and Soviet advisers were killed. The Soviet Union invaded in December 1979 to support the regime and a long messy war ensued, with the Soviet and their Afghan government allies on one side and several groups known as the Mujahedeen on the other. The Mujahedeen were armed and funded mainly by the United States, Saudi Arabia, other Gulf Arabs, Iran and China, and many were trained in Pakistan. By February 1989, all Soviet forces withdrew from the country, and the Soviet Union collapsed two years later in 1991.

After the Russians left, the country was somewhat chaotic, apparently reverting to its tribal past with no effective central government and various Mujahedeen leaders ruling separate fiefs and sometimes fighting each other. Taliban (lit. students) — made up primarily of ethnic Pashtuns and inspired by the fundamentalist Deobandi interpretation of Sunni Islam — emerged as a political force in the early 90s, heavily backed by (some would say created by) Pakistani Intelligence and largely funded by the CIA, to end "warlordism" and bring security to the country. They seized Kabul in late 1996 and controlled most of the country by 2000, aside from some areas in the northeast.

Al-Qaeda (translated, the base) began in 1988 as a group of mostly Arab volunteers aiding the Mujahedeen; like Taliban they were supported in the 90s by Pakistan and the U.S., but they also got considerable Arab support. By 2000 they were led by the Saudi Osama bin Laden, and guided by the very strict Wahhabi interpretation of Sunni Islam.

Al-Qaeda would later orchestrate the September 11, 2001 terrorist attacks in the United States. The U.S. government demanded that the Taliban hand over Osama bin Laden and other Al-Qaeda militants for trial in a US court. Taliban refused, though they did offer to try Osama in their own shariah court if the U.S. government shared "solid evidence" of his alleged guilt with them, and also expressed willingness in principle to consider extraditing Osama to a third country for a trial before a shariah court there. The U.S. refused to share whatever evidence they had with the Taliban and considered the Taliban's offers insufficient, so they and their allies chose to take military action with support from anti-Taliban Afghans — mainly Tajik, Uzbek and Turkmen warlords from the north of the country who fought in the Northern Alliance — causing the Taliban regime to fall in December 2001.

The same month, representatives from all ethnic groups of Afghanistan met in Germany and agreed to form a new government with Hamid Karzai as Chairman of the Afghan Interim Authority. Following a nationwide election in 2004, Hamid Karzai was elected as President of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. A year later, in 2005, legislative elections were held and the country's parliament began functioning again. In addition to occasionally violent political jockeying and ongoing military action to root out anti-government elements, the country sufferred from widespread election fraud, poverty, corruption, and opium cultivation.

In 2021, U.S.A. and other NATO countries withdrew their troops, and the Taliban seized control of most of the country. The U.S.-backed Afghan government swiftly collapsed, and the Taliban formed a new government. Though active fighting between different armed forces appears to have greatly decreased since then, terrorism, such as from the Islamic State organization, is still a problem. A more pressing issue is shortages of food and other goods due to drought and sanctions that were imposed due to the overall human rights situation and especially the draconian restrictions the Taliban imposed on women, who are now not permitted to go to university and allowed to hold jobs in very few professions.

People
Afghanistan is an ethnically diverse country. Tribal and local allegiances are strong, which complicates national politics immensely. The largest ethnic group is the Pashtuns, followed by Tajiks, Hazaras, Uzbeks and others. Baloch tribesmen, still largely nomadic, can be found anywhere between Quetta in Pakistan and Mashad in Iran, including much of western Afghanistan. They make marvellous rugs, if somewhat simple.

Hazaras in the central mountains look much more similar to East Asians than other Afghans do. According to some theories, they are descended from Genghis Khan's Mongol soldiers.

The two largest linguistic groups speak Pashto and Dari (Afghan Persian). Pashto speakers predominate in the south and east, Dari in the north, west and central Afghanistan. About 11% of the population have Turkic languages such as Uzbek or Turkmen as their first language. Many of them live in the north, near the borders with Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. Minor native language groups include Nuristanis, Pashais and Pamiris, found in small pockets in the east and northeast.

There are also thousands of Hindus and Sikhs living in different cities, but mostly in Kabul, Jalalabad, and Kandahar.

Climate
Temperatures in the central highlands are below freezing for most of the winter, and snow is common at higher elevations. Summertime highs in lower elevations (such as Jalalabad or Mazar-e Sharif) can exceed 50°C/120°F. In higher areas such as Kabul, summer temperatures can be 30°C/90°F and winter around 0°C/30°F. The most pleasant weather in Kabul is during April, May and September.

Terrain
Mostly rugged mountains; plains in north and southwest. The Hindu Kush mountains run northeast to southwest, dividing the northern provinces from the rest of the country, with the highest peaks found in the northern Wakhan Corridor. South of Kandahar is desert.

The lowest point is Amu Darya at 258 m, and the highest is Nowshak at 7,485 m.

Afghanistan is bordered by Pakistan to the south and east, Iran to the west, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan to the north. There is a short border with China to the far northeast, but in extremely inaccessible terrain.

Electricity
Officially 220 V 50 Hz. Electricity supplies are erratic, but slowly improving in major cities. Voltage can drop to below 150 V in some places. The Afghans' enthusiasm for homemade generators or modifying low quality ones means that the frequency and voltage can also vary wildly.

There are three types of electrical outlets likely to be found in Afghanistan. They are the old British standard BS-546 and the newer British standard BS 1363. But the European standard CEE-7/7 "Schukostecker" or "Schuko" is the standard and the most common. Generally speaking, Canadian and Americans should pack adapters for these outlets if they plan to use North American electrical equipment in Afghanistan. You may also find cheap universal adapters in the local markets, but make sure you have an understanding of electrical systems and the nature of adapters.

Read

 * Afghan Scene Magazine
 * A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush by Eric Newby — a hilarious account of pioneer trekking in Nuristan in the 1950s
 * The Places in Between by Rory Stewart — a fascinating post 9/11 travelogue of Stewart's walk from Herat to Kabul just after the fall of the Taliban.
 * The Kite Runner by Khalid Hosseini — a beautiful and heartbreaking tale of childhood in Afghanistan
 * Good Morning Afghanistan by Waseem Mahmood — a true account of the setting up of the first public radio station in Kabul after the Taliban fell.
 * An Unexpected Light: Travels in Afghanistan by Jason Elliot — a travelogue from the period between the expulsion of the Soviets and the ascension of the Taliban. He went everywhere.
 * For a Pagan Song by Jonny Bealby — a brilliant account of the author's journey to retrace the footsteps of Rudyard Kipling's heroes in The Man Who Would Be King to discover the land of Kafiristan (now Nuristan) and the people who inhabit the region.
 * Flashman — a hilarious historical novel recounting the disastrous 1842 retreat from Kabul during the First Anglo-Afghan War

Talk
The official languages of Afghanistan are Dari (an Afghan dialect of Persian), which serves as the country's lingua franca, and Pashto, spoken by the largest and most influential ethnic group, the Pashtuns. According to the CIA World Factbook, 78% of Afghans speak Dari, and 50% speak Pashto. Many Afghans are bilingual in those two languages.

You're more likely to find a Pashto speaker in areas close to the border with Pakistan than anywhere else. There are also some speakers of Urdu along that border and of Persian along the border with Iran.

As Afghanistan is a diverse, multi-ethnic country, hundreds of languages are spoken throughout. Some of the most commonly spoken minority languages include Uzbek, Turkmen, Pashayi, Baloch, and Nuristani.

Although English is taught from the fourth grade, very few Afghans speak English. According to the CIA World Factbook, less than 5% of all Afghans speak English. You're likely to find an English speaker in the capital city, Kabul. A solid knowledge of Dari and Pashto is essential for the daring, independent traveller.

Thanks to the influence of Indian cinema and cordial relations between the central government and India, a sizeable number of people can speak and understand Hindi. Approximately 2% of all Afghans speak Urdu. You're likely to find speakers in Kabul.

The literacy rate in Afghanistan is low.

Get in
You probably need to get a visa in advance. You should also register your arrival and get a permit to visit the regions where your destinations lie. There may be severe confusion about how to get the permit.

Visas
Most visitors need to apply for a visa in advance. There does not seem to be any uniform visa policy since the Taliban takeover (the Afghanistan Foreign Ministry's website's visa page link was dysfunctional as of August 2023), but visas are indeed issued at a few embassies. It may be possible to get exceptions to some of the requirements. Tourist visas are one-month single-entry for all countries. For most travels to Afghanistan you need to explain the nature of your tour and places you intend to visit.

By plane
Kabul International Airport in Kabul is the main entry point to the country. As of 2024, the airlines based in out of Kabul include flag carrier Ariana Afghan Airlines and the privately-run Kam Air. Neither the airlines nor the airport are up to international safety standards.

By car
There are a number of roads into Afghanistan:
 * From Peshawar, Pakistan, via the Khyber Pass to Jalalabad, in the east. See above for details.
 * From Quetta, Pakistan, to Kandahar, in the south. This crossing is closed to third-country nationals.
 * From Mashad, Iran to Herat, in the west. This border is open to foreigners.
 * From Termez, Uzbekistan to Mazar-e Sharif, in the north. This border is open to third-country nationals.
 * From Tajikistan to Kunduz, in the northwest. The security situation at this border was not considered conducive to passage as of 2019.

As of mid-2023, none of these routes were considered safe.

By bus
Buses run regularly between Jalalabad and Peshawar, Pakistan. Also, between Herat and Mashad, Iran. Afghani buses are thoroughly checked by Iranian border police for possible drugs, so expect delays.

By train
Afghanistan has never had a national railway network and while there are a few spur lines from neighboring countries, most notably to Mazar-e Sharif, there were no passenger trains as of 2020. However there are several border towns with passenger trains, from where it's possible to continue into Afghanistan on foot or by taxi.

Across the border from Northwest Afghanistan, the city of Termez in Uzbekistan sees trains from both Moscow and Tashkent. From Pakistan, it's possible to take a train from Quetta to the border town of Chaman and continue into South Afghanistan.

By plane
Flag carrier Ariana Afghan Airlines and Kam Air both operate flights between Kabul and Kandahar.

By car

As of 2007, there was a network of public transportation between the country's cities. Buses plied some routes and Toyota vehicles had a near monopoly on minivan (HiAce) and taxi (Corolla) transportation.

A highway connects Kabul and Mazar-i-Sharif. The highway goes through the Salang Pass and across the Hindu Kush mountain range. Another highway links Kabul to Kandahar.

There were no metered taxis in large parts of Afghanistan. As of 2011, taxis were yellow and clearly identifiable. You were expected to strike a deal with the driver before entering the cab.

Jeeps and Land Cruisers were available for hire, as of 2011, along with drivers who spoke some English. There were tour operators in Kabul that could have provided a car and guide; these people were available for hire at Kabul International Airport. Petrol stations were scarce in the countryside, and fuel was expensive.

Paved roads are the exception, not the rule, and even those roads can be in poor repair. Once outside the major cities expect dirt roads (which turn to mud during rain or snow melt).

See
While ongoing violence has put an almost full stop to tourism in Afghanistan, the lack of visitors has nothing to do with the country's sights. This is a land full of mystical attractions, telling tales of ancient times and offering beautiful Islamic architecture, medieval city quarters and unexpectedly stunning nature.

Several sites are listed on UNESCO's World Heritage List. Most famous of course, were the ancient Buddhist sculptures of Bamiyan. The Taliban destroyed most of the 6th century statues in a cultural crime that outraged the world. Today, what remains in the Bamiyan valley is the silencing and still worthwhile sight of the empty niches. The salvaged pieces of what were once the largest statues of their kind in the world continue to provide a fascinating insight in the history of this place. Band-e Amir National Park, with its six interlinked lakes, is perhaps the finest natural attraction. At an altitude of 2900 meters, the blue waters in this protected natural area almost seem unreal against the sandy mountain sides that surround them.

Excellent mosques are to be found all around, with particularly grand examples in Mazar-i-Sharif and in the rapidly developing Herat. The Minaret of Jam, just north of Herat, is UNESCO listed.

Money
The Afghani (AFN) is the currency of Afghanistan, denoted by the symbol "Afs" or "؋" (ISO code: AFN). The current version of the afghani was introduced in 2002, with 1 afghani equal to 1,000 of the previous afghanis.

Banknotes of Afghanistan are issued in denominations of 1-, 2,-, 5-, 10-, 20-, 50-, 100-, 500 and 1,000 afghanis.

Carpets

Afghanistan's most famous products are carpets and there are some fine deals to be had, though good haggling is absolutely required to get them.

There are carpets described as "Afghan", but also at least two other carpet-weaving traditions. The Baluchi tribes in the south and west weave fine rugs, and the Turkoman tribes in the north do as well; both groups are also found in neighbouring countries.
 * Afghan rugs are generally made in city workshops, mainly for the export trade. They are often large; 3 x 4 metres (10 x 12 feet) is common. Most are quite coarsely woven to keep costs down, but others have a fairly fine weave. If you need a big rug for the living room at a moderate price, these are likely to be your best choice. Beware, however, that a large thick (because coarsely woven) carpet may be expensive to transport because it will be quite heavy.
 * Baluchi rugs are usually small since nomadic people cannot use large looms; sizes up to 1.5 by 2 metres (4 x 7 feet) are common, but not many beyond that. They are popular with travellers, partly because they are fairly portable. One very common type is a prayer rug, just large enough for one person to kneel facing Mecca. Another is the "nomad's chest of drawers" — a bag, often beautifully decorated, that is a saddlebag when travelling and hangs on the wall of the tent when camped.
 * Turkoman rugs, often labelled "Bokhara" in the Western rug trade, come in all sizes and a very broad range of quality. Some are woven by nomads, with the same range of sizes and types as Baluchi rugs. Others are made in city workshops; the best of these are almost as finely woven and almost as expensive as top-grade Persian carpets. One fairly common design is the Hatchli, a cross shape on a large rug.

All three types tend to use geometric patterns in the design, usually with red as the background colour and with repeated elements called "guls" to make the pattern. Generally, these are not as finely woven as carpets from the cities of neighbouring Iran. However, many of them are quite beautiful and their prices are (assuming good haggling) well below those of the top Iranian carpets.

It is fairly common for rugs woven by nomads — such as many Baluchi rugs and some Turkoman — to show minor irregularities. The loom is dismantled for transport and re-assembled at the new camp, so the rug may not turn out perfectly rectangular. Vegetable dyes are often used, and these may vary from batch to batch, so some colour variation (arbrash) occurs and this may be accentuated as the rug fades. To collectors, most such irregularities fall into the "that's not a flaw; it's a feature" category; they are expected and accepted. In fact, a nice arbrash can considerably increase the value of a rug.

Turkoman designs are widely copied; it is common to see "Bokhara" carpets from India or Pakistan, China produces some, and the Afghan carpet designs show heavy Turkoman influence. To collectors, though, the original Turkoman rugs are worth a good deal more. Good Baluchi rugs are also quite valuable in Western countries. Afghan rugs, or lower grade Baluchi and Turkoman rugs, generally are not collectors' items; most foreigners will find the best buys among these. Experts might pay premium prices for the top-grade rugs, but amateurs trying that are very likely to get severely overcharged.

Kilims are flat-woven fabric with no pile. These are nowhere near as tough as carpets and will not survive decades on the floor as a good carpet will. However, some are lovely, and they are generally cheaper than carpets. Smaller items, such as purses, made or decorated with carpet and kilims are common.

Sheepskin coats
Another common product and popular souvenir is the Afghan sheepskin coat. These have the wool on the inside for warmth and the leather on the outside to block wind, rain and snow. They often have lovely embroidery. Two cautions, though.

 * The makers use the embroidery to hide flaws in the leather; top-quality coats will have little or no embroidery.
 * Australian customs have been known to incinerate these coats on arrival, to protect their large sheep population from diseases (notably anthrax) that poorly tanned Afghan products might carry. They might not be the only country that will do this.

Guns

Guns are very common in Afghanistan and some may be of considerable interest to historians and collectors.

Before the Russian invasion of 1979, most Afghan men carried rifles, but jezails were much the commonest type and single-shot pass rifles second; owning a repeating rifle was a major status symbol. Today most Afghans have automatic weapons – mainly Russian AK-47 or American M16 – so the older guns are readily available for any traveller who wants one.

Guns make rather problematic souvenirs. Importing a firearm anywhere can be difficult and it may be impossible in some places. If you are travelling overland and passing through several countries before you reach home, it is almost certainly not worth the trouble. Also, if you actually fire any Afghan gun, there is a risk that it will blow up in your face.

Other goods
There are also various bits of metalwork – heavily decorated pots, vases and platters, and some quite nice knives.

Eat

There are three main types of Afghan bread:

 * Naan — Literally "bread". Thin, long and oval shaped, its mainly a white/whole wheat blend. Topped with poppy seeds, sesame seeds, nigella seeds, or some combination of these. Upon request, customers may be able to get all white flour and a helping of oil, which makes it rich and delicious.
 * Obi Non — Uzbek-style bread. Shaped like a disc and thicker than naan. Usually made with white flour.
 * Lavash — Very thin bread. Similar to the lavash elsewhere. Usually used as plating for meats and stews.

Rice dishes are the "king" of all foods in Afghanistan. The Afghans have certainly taken much time and effort in creating their rice dishes, as they are considered the best part of any meal. Wealthier families will eat one rice dish per day. The Afghan royalty spent much time on rice preparation and invention as evidenced in the sheer number of rice dishes in their cookbooks. Weddings and family gatherings must feature several rice dishes and certainly reputations can be made in the realm of rice preparation.

 * Kabuli Pulao (or Kabuli Palaw, Qabili Palaw, Qabili Palau or simply Palau) — An Afghan rice dish consisting of steamed rice mixed with lentils, raisins, carrots, and lamb. It is baked in the oven and topped with fried sliced carrots and raisins. Chopped nuts like pistachios or almonds may be added as well. The meat is covered by the rice or buried in the middle of the dish. It is the most popular dish in Afghanistan, and is considered the national dish.
 * Chalao — White rice. Extra long grains such as Basmati is required. First parboiled, then drained, and finally baked in an oven with some oil, butter, and salt. This method creates a fluffy rice with each grain separated, unlike Chinese or Japanese rice. Chalao is served mainly with qormas (korma; stews or casseroles)
 * Palao — Cooked the same as chalao, but either meat & stock, qorma, herbs, or a combination are blended in before the baking process. This creates elaborate colors, flavors, and aromas for which some rices are named after. Caramelized sugar is also sometimes used to give the rice a rich brown color.
 * Yakhni Palao — Meat & stock added. Creates a brown rice.
 * Zamarod Palao — Spinach qorma mixed in before the baking process, hence 'zamarod' or emerald.
 * Qorma Palao — Qorm'eh Albokhara wa Dalnakhod mixed in before the baking process
 * Bore Palao — Qorm'eh Lawand added. Creates a yellow rice.
 * Bonjan-e-Roomi Palao — Qorm'eh Bonjan-e-Roomi (tomato qorma) added at baking process. Creates a red rice.
 * Serkah Palao — Similar to yakhni palao, but with vinegar and other spices.
 * Shebet Palao — Fresh dill, raisins added at baking process.
 * Narenj Palao — A sweet and elaborate rice dish made with saffron, orange peel, pistachios, almonds and chicken.
 * Maash Palao — A sweet and sour palao baked with mung beans, apricots, and bulgur (a kind of wheat). Exclusively vegetarian.
 * Alou Balou Palao — Sweet rice dish with cherries and chicken.
 * Sticky Rices — Boiled medium grain rice cooked with its meat, herbs, and grains. Because the water is not drained, it forms a sticky rice texture. Notable dishes include Mastawa, Kecheri Qoroot, and Shola. When white rice is cooked to a sticky consistency it is called bata, and is usually eaten with a qorma, such as Sabzi (spinach) or Shalgham (turnips). A sweet rice dish called Shir Birenj (literally milk rice) is often served as dessert.

Qorma is a stew or casserole, usually served with chawol. Most qormas are onion-based. Onions are fried, then meat is added, as are a variety of fruits, spices, and vegetables depending on the recipe. Finally water is added and left to simmer. The onion caramelizes and creates a richly colored stew. There are over 100 qormas.

 * Qorma Alou-Bokhara wa Dalnakhod — onion based, with sour plums, lentils, and cardamom. Veal or chicken.
 * Qorma Nadroo — onion based, with yogurt, lotus roots, cilantro, and coriander. Lamb or veal.
 * Qorma Lawand — onion based, with yogurt, turmeric, and cilantro. Chicken, lamb, or beef.
 * Qorma Sabzi — sauteed spinach and other greens. Lamb
 * Qorma Shalgham — onion based, with turnips, sugar; sweet and sour taste. Lamb.

Pasta is called "khameerbob" in Afghanistan and is often in the shape of dumplings. These native dishes are wildly popular. Due to the time-consuming process of creating the dough for the dumplings, it is rarely served at large gatherings such as weddings, but for more special occasions at home:

 * Mantu — A dish of Uzbek origin. Dumplings filled with onion & ground beef. Mantu is steamed and usually topped with a tomato-based sauce and a yogurt or qoroot-based sauce. The yogurt-based topping is usually a mixture of yogurt, sour cream, and garlic. The qoroot based sauce is made of goat cheese and is also mixed with garlic. Sometimes a qoroot and yogurt mixture will be used. The dish is then topped with dried mint.
 * Ashak — Kabul dish. Dumplings filled with leeks. Boiled and then drained. Ashak is topped with garlic-mint qoroot or a garlic yogurt sauce and a well seasoned ground meat mixture.
 * Afghan kebab — Most often found in restaurants and outdoor vendor stalls. Sometimes they are put into shishas. Families rarely serve homemade kebab in their home due to the need of inaccessible equipment. The most widely used meat is lamb. Recipes differ with every restaurant, but Afghan kebab is usually marinated with a blend of spices, and served with naan, rarely rice. Customers have the option to sprinkle sumac, locally known as ghora, on their kebab. The quality of kebab is solely dependent on the quality of the meat. Pieces of fat from the sheep's tail (jijeq) are usually added with the lamb skewers to add extra flavor.Other popular kebabs include lamb chops, ribs, kofta (ground beef) and chicken; all of which are found in better restaurants.
 * Chapli kebab — A specialty of eastern Afghanistan, is a fried hamburger. The original recipe of chapli kebab dictates a half meat (or less), half flour mixture, which renders it lighter in taste, and less expensive.
 * Bolani — Made in a very similar way as Mexican Quesadilla.
 * Lahndi — Also known as dried meat, a famous winter dish of Pashtun cuisine popular in amonɡst Pashtuns in Afghanistan, mostly reɡions with dry and cold weather. Consumption of lahndi is common during the winter months.

Desserts and snacks
 * Baklava
 * Afghan Cake (similar to pound cake sometimes with real fruit or jelly inside)
 * Gosh Feel (thin, fried pastry covered in powdered sugar and ground pistachios)
 * Fernea (milk and cornstarch very sweet, similar to rice pudding without the rice)
 * Mou-rubba (fruit sauce, sugar syrup and fruits, apple, sour cherry, various berries or made with dried fruits "Afghan favorite is the Alu-Bakhara")
 * Kulcha (variety of cookies, baked in clay ovens with char-wood)
 * Narenge Palau (dried sweet orange peel and green raisins with a variety of nuts mixed with yellow rice glazed with light sugar syrup)

Drink
Since Afghanistan is an Islamic country, alcohol consumption is illegal.

Sleep
Hotels and guesthouses are available in all major cities, and while some may not meet international standards they are usually friendly and reliable.

Work
Everyone contemplating work in Afghanistan should read and understand the travel advice published by their respective governments and in the Stay safe section below.

Prior to the recapture of Afghanistan by the Taliban, many foreigners found well-paid work in Afghanistan as part of the reconstruction efforts, often with the UN or other non-governmental organisations. Most of these jobs were within Kabul. Local wages were very low, especially outside of Kabul.

Stay safe

Afghanistan is a volatile and dangerous country. Non-essential travel is strongly discouraged. Banditry is somewhat of an ancient tradition in many parts of the country, including in the northern areas.

Landmines and other UXO (Unexploded Ordnance) remain a problem across the country, so plan to stick to well-worn paths, avoid red and white painted rocks, and do not touch or move any suspicious-looking item. Hundreds of people are injured or killed every year in accidents due to landmines and UXO.

Insects and snakes are also something to be careful of, and the mountainous country has many vicious tiny creatures such as scorpions, spiders, centipedes, and bees.

In some areas, altitude sickness is a significant risk.

Any homosexual activity is punishable by an assortment of harsh punishments, including death, under Afghan law. LGBT travelers should exercise tremendous discretion.

Since the Taliban takeover, it is illegal for women to show their faces in public; all women are required to wear the niqab or burqa when in public places. Traveling without a mahram is risky and possibly illegal.

Stay healthy
Afghanistan has more than its share of health issues, and it is pretty much essential to consult a travel doctor ahead of your trip about vaccinations and health risks. Travellers' diarrhea will afflict most visitors at least occasionally, and other food-related illnesses are moderately common. Respiratory diseases such as tuberculosis are common, and malaria is a risk in many parts of the country. Meningitis, hepatitis, cholera and rabies are major health issues, especially in the countryside with lacking health infrastructure.

Afghanistan is one of the dustiest countries in the world, and you should be prepared to be covered in it and breathing it for most of your stay, even in the major cities. Consider bringing facemasks. Pollution from diesel engines can also make life unpleasant.

Flies are notoriously heinous here, likely due to poor sanitation. Winter brings some relief, but they come back full-strength when spring arrives.

Food should be approached with a discerning eye, as hygiene standards can often be lacking. Hot, freshly cooked food is generally safer. Bottled water is also advised, unless you have your own purification system.

Do not approach any animals, especially dogs and cats and preferably take a rabies shot before going to the country, it's one of the most rabies-affected countries in the world and finding medical attention and medications will be hard – even with the shot you need to get urgent medical treatment if you get a scratch from an infected animal.

Bring any prescription medicine you may need from your home country, and don't count on being able to find it locally. You may also consider carrying pain relievers and anti-diarrheals, as they'll be hard to find outside of major cities.

Squat toilets are the norm, with toilet paper optional and sometimes scarce. Western-style toilets are seen occasionally in newer buildings and some private homes.

Respect

Afghans in general are welcoming and hospitable to foreign visitors. Hospitality is a cornerstone of Afghan culture, and it is very likely that you'll be treated as a celebrity by the locals.

With the regime change in 2021, a large proportion of the population, especially women, are very afraid of what will be in the future. Those who worked for the government, for foreign organisations, for human rights or for the media, or held any high profile positions may be afraid for their lives. Tread extremely lightly.

Basic etiquette
If invited to an Afghan home, expect to be offered the best of everything there is. You will often be showered with tea, sweets, snacks, and gifts when entering someone's home. Don't refuse any of these as it can leave a bad impression on your hosts. You'll often be encouraged by your hosts to take second helpings ad infinitum. If so, take it as a form of respect as it may leave a good impression on your hosts. Cleaning your plate will invite more to be served, while leaving too much may be a sign you didn't care for it. Aim for leaving just a little, announcing you're full, and heavily praising the food.

Honor and shame, otherwise known as "saving face" in other countries, are very important in Afghan culture. No matter how genuine your intentions may be, avoid criticising people in the open and do not make someone feel uncomfortable with your questioning. Be mindful that your actions will be reflected on your counterparts (e.g. Business partners, family members); doing anything perceived as "shameful" by Afghans will cause others to view them in a negative way. Be mindful of this and behave accordingly.

While the majority of women across Afghanistan still wear the burqa or chadori, in cities like Kabul and Herat many opt for the Middle Eastern-style hijab. Western women are highly encouraged to wear any type of head scarf (especially outside Kabul). As a general rule, the people get more conservative as you move further south.

The pace of life in Afghanistan is quite slow. Building relationships and getting things done require you to demonstrate sincere interest as Afghans try to do things in a measured, careful manner. Losing your temper is seen as disrespectful, and it can quickly make people feel uncomfortable.

As in any other Islamic country, people place a high value on personal privacy. Although Afghanistan may have wonderful photo opportunities, do not photograph or record people without their permission, especially women. Also, taking photographs of anything of strategic importance may be met with suspicion.

Be sensitive to the country's current situation. Many Afghans have endured a lot due to years of conflict and warfare. Offer sympathy and respect when the opportunity arises.

Religious etiquette

 * Remember to remove your shoes when entering a religious building.
 * Dress modestly and appropriately; not doing so is considered disrespectful.
 * If at all possible, try not to schedule meetings during Ramadan. The workday is shortened, and since Muslims fast, they will not be able to offer you tea, which is a sign of hospitality. Meetings are also not scheduled during prayers. Also refer to travelling during Ramadan.
 * Mosques are sometimes off-limits to non-Muslims so it is always better to inquire with someone before entering.

Politics

 * Do not discuss the Taliban — Some support them and others may not dare to criticize them. Any such discussion will put the local in a very awkward situation.
 * Be careful when discussing Pakistan — The two countries have had a very hostile relationship, while people from the neighboring regions may have strong ties across the border.
 * Be careful when discussing the foreign efforts during the former regime — Many Afghans feel that the US military did more harm than good, or betrayed Afghanistan by withdrawing. Any such discussions may also risk being interpreted as criticizing the Taliban regime, see above.

Personal subjects

 * Family — Many Afghan people have either been separated from their families, have lost family members to conflict, or fear that they might be put into danger if they're spoken about. As a general rule, don't discuss someone's family unless you know the person well.
 * Religion — Afghanistan has some very harsh blasphemy laws. You can very easily elicit strong responses by speaking negatively about religion, especially from an agnostic point of view. Also, don't assume that every Afghan is a hard-line Muslim; secular viewpoints are common. On the other hand, hijabs or burqas are traditional clothing in some regions. Someone's preferred style of dress might not reflect their private views.

Connect
Fixed line service is available in major cities (digital in Kabul) and mobile phones in most cities. SIM cards are available and international calls to Europe/US typically cost less than USD0.5/minute. Outside of major cities your options are limited to a satellite phone.

An Afghanistan number should is of the form  where "93" is the country code for Afghanistan, the next two digits are the area code and the remaining 7 digits are the "local" part of the subscriber number that can be called from within that particular area code using abbreviated dialing. You need to dial "0" in front of the geographic area code (of 20, 30, 40, 50 or 60 for fixed lines) from outside that particular area code (but when still within Afghanistan).

Mobile phones
Mobile numbers in Afghanistan must always be dialled with all digits (10 digits, including a "0" prefixing the "70n" within Afghanistan), no matter where they are being called from. The 70n is a mobile prefix, not an "area code", as such and the third digit (the n part) denotes the original mobile network assigned. An example mobile number looks like.

 * Roshan +93 [tel:79 997 1333 79 997 1333]. The most reliable service with the widest coverage. SMS is possible to most countries. SIM cards cost USD5, local calls are Af 5/minute.
 * Afghan Wireless Privately owned with 20% ownership by the government. AWCC has the only communications ring around the country offering high speed mobile and data services throughout all provinces. AWCC also offers the highest speed fibre-based connections to the outside world, with roaming to over 300 other operators in 120 countries. Services include Voice, FAX, GPRS and EDGE data services along with WiMAX and dedicated high speed internet service with 45MB links to NYC and 45MB links to Paris. SIM cards cost USD1, local calls are Af 4.99/minute billing in seconds.
 * Areeba/MTN +93 [tel:77 222 2777 77 222 2777]. The cheapest cell service, offers the least coverage. SIM cards cost USD3, local calls are Af 5.5/minute.
 * Etisalat +93 [tel:78 688 8888 78 688 8888]. A large network provider from the UAE, is the latest GSM network in Afghanistan. It became the first company to begin 3G services in early 2012.

Satellite phones

 * Thuraya is the most reliable satellite phone system.

title: Afghanistan


text:
Aflao

Aflao is the coastal town in Ghana bordering Togo. While east of the Togolese side of the border the city is the capital, Lome, the once-called "Pearl of West Africa", the Ghanaian town is a typical African border town built solely to service the movement of people and goods. There are a few restaurants and hotels and the rest of the economy is driven by street side currency converters who will give rates of varying attractiveness to convert Ghanaian Cedis to Togolese West African Francs.

Get in
Minivans and buses leave regularly for several Ghanaian towns, with trips along the coast to Accra leaving very frequently at cheap prices.

Stay safe
Petty theft is common, especially of Western tourists.

title: Aflao