text:
Fife

Fife (Scottish Gaelic: Fìobha) is a county in the north east of Scotland, with a population in 2019 of 371,910. It's a lowland peninsula, with the broad Firth of Forth to the south and the smaller Firth of Tay to the north, and great bridges for its gateways. Its name may derive from the Pictish kingdom of Fib. It's not related to the fife musical instrument, which derives from the German Pfeife, a pipe.

Towns
"The Kingdom of Fife" is a mix of urban and rural, in three areas:

West Fife has the Forth bridges to the south and the medieval town of Dunfermline and the village of Culross to the west.

 * is a gem, a charming 16th- to 17th-century restored coastal town.
 * has a navy base and is mostly nondescript housing.
 * is a former capital of Scotland, with seven monarchs interred in its Abbey.
 * is below as you cross the bridge. Turn off and descend for Deep Sea World and vistas of the bridges.
 * is an attractive village with great beaches and a castle.

Central Fife is a former mining area with small rust-belt villages. The larger towns are:

 * and Kinghorn are seaside settlements with views across to Edinburgh.
 * was the birthplace of Adam Smith, "the father of modern economics".
 * is a "New Town". Though it's not normally a place people visit, it has good parks and a local venue, Rothes Halls.
 * is a faded seaside town with a long sandy beach.

North East Fife is a rural area that hasn't had to cope with the decline in industry and mining.
 * is a must-see for its ruined palace and gardens.
 * is the largest of its fishing villages, bracketed by Elie, St Monans, Pittenweem, Crail and Kingsbarns.
 * , five miles out to sea, is a nature reserve swarming with birds and seals. It's usually visited by boat trip from Anstruther.
 * is the historic county town. Overshadowed by its famous neighbour St Andrew, it's a pleasant town with parks, a path along the River Eden and independent shops.
 * is the home of golf and has the oldest university in Scotland.

Understand
"It taks a lang spoun tae sup wi a Fifer" so the saying goes, to illustrate the independent and guarded nature of folk of Fife. Fife is a peninsula between the Forth and Tay estuaries, so it was detached from early transport routes and in Pictish times may have been a semi-independent kingdom. It became more important from the 11th century when the main royal residence moved from Scone near Perth to Dunfermline, and St Andrews grew as a pilgrimage centre then university town. Fife produced grain and was industrial from an early stage through salt-panning, quarrying and coal: the same coalfield that outcrops near Edinburgh stretches under the sea to outcrop in Fife. A string of little harbours along the Forth exported these goods, and when the ships returned unladen from the Low Countries they used roof tiles for ballast. These were re-used for local building so Fife acquired its townscape of red-pantiled villages, crow-stepped in Dutch style. Its barons were wealthy and powerful and the county was informally referred to as the "Kingdom of Fife".

The big growth was in the 19th century, through deep mining for coal and other heavy industry. Ships were broken at Inverkeithing, Kirkcaldy supplied linoleum to the world, and Rosyth became a navy base. Fife miners tunnelled out under the sea, thinking one day to meet their colleagues approaching from Monktonhall, but the seams were poor and the national coal industry collapsed in the 1970s. A greenfield "New Town" was established at Glenrothes but central Fife became a rust-belt. This however preserved the picturesque East Neuk, as its railway closed and it didn't attract new housing.

The Forth railway bridge opened in 1890, replacing the railway ro-ro ferry that from 1850 had carried coal trucks from Burntisland. Still the road crossing was by ferry until 1964 when the Forth Road Bridge opened (replaced in 2017 by the "Queen's Crossing"). This was connected to motorways and Fife suddenly became commuterland for Edinburgh, with the town of Dalgety Bay popping up out of nothing. It also made Fife the county you quickly motor across to reach Perth and the Highlands; but it's well worth pausing to explore.

Famous people from Fife include the architect Robert Adam (1728-1792), the writer Iain Banks (1954-2013), Prime Minister Gordon Brown (b 1951), philanthropist tycoon Andrew Carnegie (1835-1919), economist Adam Smith (1723-1790), and Alexander Selkirk (1676-1721) the inspiration for "Robinson Crusoe".

By plane
has a good range of flights across Europe, to London and elsewhere in UK; and it's west of the city so you can continue to Fife without getting embroiled in city traffic. The Stagecoach Jet 747 bus from Airport Stop G runs across the old Forth Road Bridge to Inverkeithing and Halbeath Interchange, 45 min. It costs £6.50 single and £12 for a return within 28 days, and runs daily 24 hours, every 20 min daytime. Change at Inverkeithing for trains across Fife and at Halbeath for buses, see below.

Otherwise, take the airport bus or tram to Haymarket for transport north. Or with a hire car, turn west and within ten minutes you're crossing the new Forth Bridge into Fife.

Glasgow Airport has good connections across Europe, but it's wrong side of Glasgow for Fife: reckon a 90-minute to two-hour drive to most parts of the county. However a direct bus X24 runs hourly from the airport via central Glasgow, Dunfermline, Halbeath and Glenrothes to St Andrews.

You're unlikely to use Dundee Airport. It has two flights M-F from London Stansted but that's all.

By train
LNER daytime trains run from London Kings Cross via Peterborough, York, Newcastle and Edinburgh to Dundee and Aberdeen, stopping at Inverkeithing, Kirkcaldy, Markinch (for Glenrothes) and Leuchars (for St Andrews). Leeds-Aberdeen trains join this route at York. From Birmingham, Manchester or Glasgow, change at Edinburgh Waverley or Haymarket. Overnight from London, take the Lowland sleeper from Euston towards midnight, arriving in Edinburgh around 7AM, and change to a daytime train to Fife. The Highland sleeper also stops at Inverkeithing, Kirkcaldy and Leuchars but ejects you onto a bleak platform at 5AM.

These train thunder non-stop through the smaller stations in Fife. For those take the Scotrail trains from Edinburgh towards Inverkeithing, where they branch either to Rosyth, Dunfermline, Cowdenbeath and Glenrothes, or hug the coast through Dalgety Bay, Aberdour, Burntisland, Kinghorn and Kirkcaldy. There they again branch either to Perth, or to Cupar, Leuchars and Dundee, or to Leven. They no longer run a loop through Kirkcaldy and Glenrothes back to Edinburgh.

The Fife railways are being part-electrified, the plan being to use battery trains that can run across gaps that are impractical to electrify, such as the Forth Bridge.

By bus
Stagecoach is the main operator. The principal bus routes into Fife are:
 * from Edinburgh X55 to Rosyth and Dunfermline, X54 / X59 to Halbeath, Glenrothes and Dundee or St Andrews, and X58 / X60 to Inverkeithing, Kirkcaldy, Leven and St Andrews.
 * from Glasgow X24 / X26 to Dunfermline, Glenrothes and St Andrews, and X27 to Dunfermline, Kirkcaldy and Leven.
 * from Inverness and Perth change at Halbeath on the outskirts of Dunfermline.

A driverless bus from Edinburgh to Fife is under trial in 2023. From 15 May it started to take passengers on the 30-minute, 14-mile journey between Ferrytoll Park & Ride and Edinburgh Park. Don't worry: there is a "safety driver" sitting at the wheel ready to take control.

By road
From the south cross the Forth on M90 (no toll) and take A823(M) for Dunfermline, A921 for Aberdour and Burtisland, and A92 for Kirkcaldy, Leven, Glenrothes and St Andrews.

From the north come through Dundee onto the Tay Bridge for St Andrews and the East Neuk, but follow M90 for everywhere else.

From Glasgow take M80 then M876 over Kincardine Bridge then A985 towards Dunfermline.

Get around
Train is quickest along the Fife coast and to Rosyth and Dunfermline.

Buses radiate from Dunfermline, Glenrothes and Kirkcaldy as above. Others you might use (and see town pages) are:
 * Bus 7 along the coast from Dunfermline to Inverkeithing, Dalgety Bay, Aberdour, Burntisland, Kinghorn, Kirkcaldy and Leven;
 * X4 Glenrothes—Leven and X37 Glenrothes—Kirkcaldy;
 * Bus 342 Perth—Glenrothes via Falkland Palace;
 * Bus 99 St Andrews—Leuchars—Dundee (with night buses F Sa) and Bus 95 St Andrews—Anstruther—Leven.

The main highways are M90 north-south, A92 Dunfermline—Kirkcaldy—Glenrothes—Dundee, A915 Kirkcaldy—Leven—St Andrews and A91 a northern alternative from M90 at Kinross to St Andrews. The coast highway is much slower, which (as A917) is fine for the scenic East Neuk, but (as A921 to Kirkcaldy then A955 to Leven) otherwise drags you through places that are no great shakes to look at. However the cycle route across Fife and the Fife Coastal Path parallel or share these highways.

See

 * Culross is a gem, a well-restored 16th- to 17th-century village.
 * Dunfermline has a ruined abbey and the birthplace of Andrew Carnegie.
 * The Forth Bridges can be viewed from east or west, but to walk across start from North Queensferry.
 * Kirkcaldy is industrial but has a good museum and art gallery.
 *  Falkland Palace was beloved by the young Mary Queen of Scots.
 *  The East Neuk are a string of picturesque fishing villages.
 *  The Secret Bunker was a control bunker for a nuclear war.
 * St Andrews is a pleasant historic university town.
 * Scotland's Gardens opens up private gardens once a year in summer, with all proceeds going to charity. There are about 25 participating gardens in Fife, dates staggered so there's one open most weekends.

Do

 * Fife Coastal Path is a 117-mile trail from Kincardine Bridge through North Queensferry, Kirkcaldy, East Neuk and St Andrews to the Tay estuary. See individual towns for the local route, but check the website for occasional disruptions and diversions. You can easily walk a section one way and ride back on the bus or train.
 * Golf: St Andrews is the big, big name: you won't get onto the Old Course unless you're a top pro or celeb, but there are several more championship courses that you can play with prior booking and a suitable fee. Other towns have plenty of courses where you only pay double-figure green fees but can lose your ball just as irretrievably.
 * Beaches get better the further east you go — from Leven onto Lundin Links, say.
 * Boat trips to the Isle of May usually sail from Anstruther: they may land, or just circle to view the bird life.
 * Football: there are pro soccer teams in Dunfermline, Kelty, Kirkcaldy and Leven.
 * Highland Games are held in June at Markinch, in July at Thornton, Burntisland and St Andrews, and in August at Inverkeithing. Fife County Agricultural Show is in Cupar in May.

Eat

 * All the towns and villages have cheap and cheerful places, but the best settings are along the East Neuk. Fish & chips in Cowdenbeath in November is not the same experience as fish & chips in Anstruther in high summer, even if the gulls are equally predatory.
 * St Andrews has the best selection of dining. Peat Inn in Cupar and Cellar in Anstruther get great reviews.
 * Bananas: coffee and a banana are what Fifers like other commuters grab before heading to work in the morning. (Anyone remember "Go to work on an egg" and "Breakfast is the most important meal of the day", those 20th-century marketing tropes?) Bananas, like coffee, only became mainstream British diet from the 1960s thanks to fast refrigerated boats from the Caribbean, docking at south and west coast ports such as Preston, but "The Kingdom of Fife" became dubbed "The Banana Republic" through allusion to Fyffes the leading banana importer into Britain, and industrial Fife's left-leaning politics. This moniker has fallen out of use as both unionised coalfield labour and Fyffe's brand have faded, and no-one can think of a spoof on "Chiquita".

Drink

 * As with eating places, there are pubs in all the towns, and it's the ambience that counts, especially the little places along the East Neuk. These are usually part of hotels or restaurants, as the smaller villages can't support a free-standing pub.
 * Who knew? - Japanese whiskey is made in Dunfermline and rum is made in Leven.

Sleep

 * Fife has lots of business hotels along the M90 and A92; clean and efficient, but chain offerings.
 * The East Neuk has most caravan sites, though most are just static holiday homes, with only a few accepting tourers or tents.

Stay safe
Fife is lowland and pretty safe. Take care on the water but the main hazards are man-made: safeguard valuables, steer clear of idiot drunks, and always beware traffic.

Go next

 * Dundee is north across the Tay, with Captain Scott's sailing ship Discovery, the V&A, and Verdant jute mills.
 * Angus the county around Dundee has ancient artwork by the Picts, just about the only remnant of these mysterious people.
 * Perth is a historic market town at the edge of the Highlands.
 * Edinburgh, visible across the Forth, is Scotland's must-see capital.

title: Fife


text:
Fife (disambiguation)

There is more than one place called Fife:

United Kingdom

 * Fife - An area of Scotland

United States of America

 * Fife (Washington) - A town in the state of Washington.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Fife (disambiguation)


text:
Fife (Washington)

Fife is a town of 11,000 people (2020) in the southwestern Puget Sound region of Washington State. Fife, an eastern suburb of Tacoma, consists primarily of businesses such as car dealerships, warehousing and industrial facilities, motels, drive-through smoke shops, quick-dining restaurants, a Native American casino, and various other highway-side businesses. Fife is contained within the Puyallup Indian Reservation.

Get in
Interstate 5 passes through Fife.

title: Fife (Washington)


text:
Figueira da Foz

Figueira da Foz is a seaside resort on the Beira Litoral in Central Portugal, situated at the mouth of the Mondego River west of Coimbra. It boasts a long waterfront promenade, Europe's widest urban beach and one of Portugal's few casinos. It is also popular with surfing enthusiasts for its favorable conditions and often hosts surfing competitive events.

Understand

Figueira da Foz (fee-GAY-ruh duh FAWSH, /fi.ˈgɐj.ɾɐ dɐ ˈfɔʃ/) municipality has 62,125 residents (2011), with about 28,000 in the city proper.

The name of the city is most probably derived from disused Latin and proto-Portuguese terminology referring to its location on the mouth of the river Mondego, whose name itself refers to it entering the Atlantic ocean. The favourable location led to humans settling in the area early on, although the city appears in record only in the 10th century. It has seen tremendous development thanks to advances in seafaring and later industrial revolution, and it was not until late 19th century that is became a seaside resort and underwent yet another transformation since then.

Figueira da Foz is the second most populous municipality in the Coimbra district after Coimbra itself. While ostensibly a resort, its port is also of major significance to trade and several major industries are located within the municipality, including large paper, glass and cement factories.

Get in

Figueira da Foz has no international airport and neither has its metropole Coimbra. That said, Coimbra is halfway between large international airports of Porto and Lisbon, with frequent trains running between the two cities through Coimbra, where one can change to a train to Figueira da Foz.

Figueira da Foz is served by two motorways: A14 (Autoestrada do Baixo Mondego) from Coimbra and A17 (Autoestrada do Litoral Centro) from Aveiro and Marinha Grande. Travelling from Coimbra, Lisbon, or Porto directly by car is actually up to two times quicker than taking the trains, due to numerous stops along the way.

Get around
AVIC operates a small number of bus lines within the municipality. Otherwise, you need to rely on taxis and, within the city of Figueira itself, you will comfortably reach all your destinations on foot.

See

Eat
Seafood and bacalhau (cod).

Go next

 * An obvious destination along the way to Figueira da Foz, Coimbra is a beautiful historic city of much significance

title: Figueira da Foz


text:
Figueres

Figueres is a small city in Catalonia, Spain with a population of 40,000. It is the seat of the Alt Empordà county in the Girona Province and has a wealth of history spanning many centuries that has been preserved and shown in several museums in the area and in the compact Old Town. Being the last major town before the Spanish/French border, it serves as a fantastic base to explore the upper Empordá region that is awash in great food, wines, and beaches that represent the Catalan culture. It is a stage in the Catalan Way of St. James.

Understand
The city's main attraction is the world famous museum of native son, Salvador Dalí. After the Prado in Madrid, it is the most visited museum in all of Spain. It is often seen as part of a day-trip from Barcelona or the packaged hotels of Costa Brava. But beyond the museum, Figueres can be a pleasant place to spend a night or two. The town, much like Girona, is a relaxed alternative to Barcelona with cafés on side streets, and a compact Old Town core. The Empordà region in general will appeal to those interested in the history and/or burgeoning viticulture and gastronomy of Northern Catalonia. Figueres works well as a base for day trips to these destinations. Figueres is also 15 minutes by car or 25 minutes by train from the beaches of the Costa Brava.

The name of the town means 'fig trees' as they used to grow in great abundance around the area. Local youth often refer to the town as 'Figui' for short.

History
Figueres descended from two Roman towns, Juncària and Figàries, but the establishment of the town really started to happen in the 10th century as stated in records from the Sant Pere Monastery that was located where the Sant Pere church is today. As it was not an outpost border town in the Marca Hispanica (such as neighboring Besalú or Peralada), it was of little significance until it was made a Royal Town in 1267 and then much later, when the Sant Ferran castle was built from 1753 to 1766.

Once the castle was finished, fortunes changed a great deal for Figueres as it became the supply base for the castle. The population grew and it started its course towards being the major town of the region, despite occupation by Napoleon's forces from 1808–1814. Between 1831 and 1840, the Rambla was created by covering a dry riverbed, and became a center for the town. The shade trees that stand on the Rambla were planted in 1864. In 1877, the railway station was opened. In 1904, the town's most famous resident, one Salvador Domingo Felipe Jacinto Dalí i Domènech was born.

The Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) was quite hard on the town. The castle became the last outpost for Republican Spain and Franco's forces bombed the town with great ferocity. As was the case with a lot of the surrounding area, many structures were lost in the war, including the main theater, which stood in ruin for several decades.

Upon attaining critical and financial success around the world, Dalí bought the old theater in his home town and converted it in to the museum that we see today, and which is a major draw of tourism to the town.

Talk
As Figueres is in Catalonia and Catalonia is an autonomous part of Spain, everybody in Figueres can speak Spanish, albeit to varying degrees. Although Catalan was banned by the Franco regime and Spanish was the only language, the older generation above 60, when speaking Spanish, will often speak a form of "Spatalan", which is mostly Spanish but with a lot of Catalan tossed in. It can be difficult to understand at times for foreigners. Catalan is as separate a language from Spanish as French and Italian are. It is not a Spanish dialect.

Northern Catalan, which is spoken here, is strongly influenced by French through the interchange with French and Catalan speakers across the border. Such dishes as 'pa amb tomaquet' (bread with tomato) become 'pa amb tomate' with a soft 'uh' sound at the end. There are many more examples and one of the most difficult is when they say words that end with 'o' and say it with a long 'u' sound. If you make the effort to say neighboring town names in Catalan, make sure you understand the pronunciation and if you say Barcelona pronouncing the Castillian 'th' sound for the 'c', people will assume that you are speaking Spanish.

The generation under 35 will generally speak some if not a good deal of English and French. Some people may speak a little Italian and oddly enough, there is a large Russian-speaking community in Figueres.

By plane
Girona Costa Brava Airport has budget flights by Ryanair. It's 13 km south of that city: either take the local bus downtown then the train to Figueres, or the Barcelona airport bus which calls here then in Girona and Figueres.

Barcelona El Prat Airport has a much greater choice of flights. Take the direct bus to Figueres, or go downtown for trains.

By rail
Four high speed international trains run daily from Barcelona Sants via Girona, taking 55 min to Figures Vilafant. They continue north to Perpignan and Narbonne, then fan out to Paris, Lyon and Marseille. Reservations are compulsory.

AVE fast domestic trains run every 30 min from Barcelona Sants, likewise taking 55 min via Girona to Figueres Vilafant.

Rodalies are the regional trains. R11 runs hourly from Barcelona Sants taking 90 min via Girona, then continues north via Figueres local station and multiple other stops to Portbou and Cerbère across the border. Until the high speed line opened in 2010 this was the railway route from France and you can still come this way.

By bus
The bus station is directly across Plaça de l'Estació from the local train station with regular connections to Barcelona and other destinations in Catalonia.

Get around
All the sites for the vast majority of tourists going to Figueres are easily reached on foot, and there are plenty of benches and public spaces for a rest in the shade if one gets tired while walking around.

For those looking to travel outside of Figueres to smaller, historic towns, castles, restaurants, or wineries, there are several car rental offices (Europcar, Enterprise, Avis) next to the train station, although it is strongly advised to book ahead online to get better rates than just showing up.

Museums

Landmarks

There is an informal but large vintage and classic car museum on the road from Figueres to Empuriabrava-beautiful cars some fully restored and some for sale going back to the 1910s.

City festivals
Every town in Spain, no matter what the size has a day of celebration for their patron saint known as the 'fiesta mayor' in Castellano or 'festa major' in Catalan. They are a celebration of the town with events that are free to the public such as concerts, art shows, and theater performances. While they make the centers very crowded, they are one of the most lively times to visit a town in Spain. Figueres happens to have two of these as well as 'parties of the street':

 * Festa Major de la Santa Creu On the 3rd of May.
 * Festa de Sant Baldiri On the 20th of May.
 * Festa Major de Sant Pere On the 29th of June

Other events

 * Festival Acústica A mostly free acoustic music festival at the end of August each year. It takes place in various squares and streets around the center of town.

Cycling
The Pirinexus and the EuroVelo EV8 long distance bike routes runs near the city, connected to Figueres by route 10

Long-range

 * Catalan Way of St. James from El Port de la Selva to Montserrat (Spain) to Alcarrás passes the city.

Dalí souvenirs
For anyone who is in the market for Dalí knickknacks, Figueres is the place to find them.

General shopping
It is quite common for the people living in the south of France to visit Figueres for shopping purposes as the taxes are lower than in France. Because of this and the large tourism pull due to the museums and beaches, a great number of large brands have shops in Figueres including: Zara, Benetton, La Coste, Pull & Bear, and Women's Secret. While not the level of shopping one finds in Barcelona, the selection is quite decent overall and for those who require larger sizes in clothing and shoes, it is often the case that they can be found easier in Figueres than in Barcelona.

Local shopping
Figueres also has a number of older, locally owned stores that haven't been swept away by the tide of massive chain stores.

Eat
Local Catalan specialties include: oxtail soup, butifarra, fuet, seafood, paella, and of course gaspatxo. If 'patatas de Olot' are on a menu, make sure to give them a try: they are a slice of potato wrapped around ground meat and fried. While not terribly healthy, they are incredibly delicious. There is also an onion from the Figueres area called the 'ceba de Figueres' which is sought after because it is a great deal sweeter than a regular white onion. It can be eaten raw in a number of dishes.

Avoid all the restaurants along Carrer de Jonquera from Perelada to Muralla. While edible, the restaurants on this stretch of street make sub-par food for beach tourists who don't want to walk far from the Dalí Museum. They are not a good representation of the food from the region.

Bars
Plaça del Sol is the main "scene" of Figueres at night. There are a number of bars along this square which is really just a parking lot with the town library on it as well. Some of the bars allow smoking and some not. Overall, the offer is much the same with one bar usually being the "hot bar" of that particular month. True to the name, it's a much more popular place in the summer. The other option is, Plaça de les Patates, which is a great deal more laid back.

Wines
There has been an extensive history of wine cultivation in the area around Figueres dating back 2,600 years. There is a resurgence of viticulture in the region, and is creating some of the most noteworthy wines in all of Catalonia, especially for the price.

As Figueres is the seat of Alt Empordà, it also houses the offices for the local DO Empordà region which can be found at Avinguda Marignane, 2. The office can provide more information, although the website is extremely helpful in locating wineries.

For those wishing to make a tour of the wineries, you will definitely need a car as they are in far-flung villages around the area. Closest to Figueres are the wineries of La Vinyeta and Perelada. The former is a very new, modern winery started by a young winemaker who is making some of the most exciting wines in the region neat the village of Mollets. The later is a much more established winery that sits next to the castle of Perelada, which is a small town about five minutes by car from Figueres. Their wines are rather pricey, but they have grown to carry a high pedigree whether deserved or not. Perelada also charges for tastings, which is rather uncommon.

Outside of these two regions, a drive up to the village Cantallops is recommended as in addition to being a delightful town, it houses the wineries of Vinyes dels Aspres and Masia Serra. Both of these wineries are making splendid wines, especially the sweet Garnatxas (Grenache) and Moscatells. You will need to call Masia Serra before visiting though as it is rarely open to the public.

Another village worth visiting for wine is Capmany which has Arché Pagès and about 10 other wineries.

Heading in the other direction, one can go to Vilajuïga which has Empordàlia which makes the Sinols brand. Additionally, they also have wine 'a granel' or in bulk that is of high quality and can be bought for less than €1.50 a liter.

The local wine shops in Figueres sell all these brands for those wishing to take back something from Figueres that isn't related to Dalí.

Sleep
Figueres provides a variety of hotels, with rates much cheaper than in Barcelona, but generally comparable to Girona. In addition to actual hotel and hostel establishments there are a great many 'masias' in the area which are farm houses that were converted over to rural guest houses. The prices can be quite good and the accommodations very nice, although the proprietors rarely speak English and thus they can be tricky to find at times.

Stay safe
Figueres is overall, a very safe town. Violent crime is extremely rare and most issues resolve around petty theft when they happen. As is the case in many places, beware of crowded areas and events as pickpockets can frequent these venues.

In the summer, it can get quite hot as is typical with coastal Catalonia. Make sure to drink plenty of water and cover your head if sensitive to heavy direct sunlight.

In the winter, it can be quite cold at times. While snow is exceptionally rare in Figueres proper, driving on the E-15 or the AP-7 north to France could very well require chains or snow tires near La Jonquera at certain times due to the pass often receiving a decent amount of snow. Likewise, driving west from Figueres, the mountain roads climb in elevation quite rapidly and snow is common, so plan car trips accordingly.

Connect
As of Jan 2024, Figueres and its approach highways have 5G from all Spanish carriers.

Go next

 * Barcelona - The capital and main city of Catalonia with a wealth of attractions.
 * Besalú - A very old town to the West of Figueres that has a historic bridge.
 * Blanes - A beach resort with two botanical gardens and modernist buildings is easily reachable by train.
 * Cadaqués - A nice seaside town that also houses one of Dalí's other homes for those wanting to see more Dalí history.
 * Cantallops - A compact mountain town with two wineries and some good restaurants.
 * Cap de Creus - The Eastern end of Spain. Incredibly windy, but worth a trip to experience it, the lighthouse and the view out the sea.
 * Castellfollit de la Roca - Further West than Besalú, but worth the trip as it's a striking town perched along a narrow sliver of rock jutting out in to a canyon.
 * Costa Brava - The coastal region that radiates out from Figueres and Girona starting at Blanes in the south and ending at the French border. Very popular in summer and renowned for its beaches, both sandy and stony.
 * Girona - While most people will do a day trip from Girona or Barcelona to Figueres, one can also do the opposite and make days trips to the wonderful town of Girona from Figueres.
 * Torroella de Montgrí - A pleasant old town that was once the capital of the Empúries kingdom. Now it sits at the base of a mountain that goes up to a castle. A good day hike for those inclined.

title: Figueres


text:
Fiji

Fiji (Fijian: Viti, Hindi: फ़िजी) (sometimes called the Fiji Islands) is an archipelago nation in Melanesia in the Pacific Ocean. It lies 2000 km north of New Zealand and consists of 332 islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu being the largest ones.

Fiji's main attraction is its paradise-like nature, with perfect palm-lined beaches, blue waters and green inland hills. Relax on the gorgeous sandy beaches of the Mamanuca Islands. Dive for the dark limestone Sawa-i-Lau cave in the Yasawa Islands. Discover the sand dunes of the Sigatoka Valley, once used as a burial ground, or head deep into Viti Levu to see Fiji's inland wildlife at the beautiful and jungle-covered Kulu Eco Park. From virtually any of the islands you can dive to experience Fiji's underwater beauty, or take a challenging hike along the ridges and through the dense rain forest of Bouma National Park, on Taveuni. Tall jungle trees, a colourful array of birds, waterfalls and volcanic peaks are just some of the attractions.

Regions
Fiji can be divided into nine groups of islands:

Cities

 * — the capital, famously rainy and not often visited by tourists
 * (pronounced 'Nandi') — transit hub near the main airport
 * (pronounced 'Nandi') — transit hub near the main airport
 * (pronounced 'Nandi') — transit hub near the main airport

Other destinations

 * - gated tourist enclave near Nadi
 * — off the northern coast of Viti Levu
 * — sixth largest island, part of the Lomaiviti group

Understand
Fiji is the product of volcanic mountains and warm tropical waters. Its majestic and varied coral reefs today draw tourists from around the world, but were the nightmare of European mariners until well into the 19th century. As a result, Fijians have retained their land and often much of the non-commercial, sharing attitude of people who live in vast extended families with direct access to natural resources. When it came, European involvement and cession to Britain was marked by the conversion to Anglicanism, the cessation of animist beliefs, brutal tribal warfare and cannibalism, and the immigration of a large number of indentured Indian labourers, whose descendants now represent nearly half of the population, and there are smaller numbers of Europeans and other Asians. Today, Fiji is a land of tropical rain forests, coconut plantations, fine beaches, and fire-cleared hills. For the casual tourist it is blessedly free of evils such as malaria, landmines, or terrorism that attend many similarly lovely places in the world.

Internal political unrest since 2005 has reduced tourism. The Fiji tourism industry has responded by lowering prices and increasing promotion of the main resort areas that are far removed from the politics in and around the capital, Suva.

While the 180-degree longitude line crosses through Fiji, the international date line passes east of all of Fiji, making it one of the first countries to enter every new day.

Climate
Tropical marine; only slight seasonal temperature variation. Tropical cyclonic storms (the South Pacific version of hurricanes) can occur from November-April. Temperature sensitive visitors may wish to visit during the Southern Hemisphere winter.

Geography
Fiji is 3,000 km east of Australia within the waters of the South Pacific Ocean. It comprises a group of 332 islands across its archipelago.

Terrain
Mostly mountains of volcanic origin. In most of the interior of the main islands there are some roads, many trails, and an amazing number of remote villages. Buses and open or canvas topped "carriers" traverse the mountains of Vanua Levu several times a day and the interior mountains of Viti Levu many times weekly. (The Tacirua Transport "hydromaster" bus which leaves from Nausori in the morning, runs past the hydroelectric reservoir and mount Tomanivi, and arrives the same day in Vatoukola and Tavua is the best and the scenery is truly spectacular in good weather!)

History
Austronesians were the first settlers, who reached Fiji by 1100 BC. From 500 BC, Melanesian mariners reached Fiji, giving rise to the modern Fijians. By the 10th century, it came under the sphere of influence within the Tu'i Tonga Dynasty, bringing Polynesian customs.

Europeans explored Fiji in the 17th century, including Abel Tasman, who in 1643, accidentally discovered the islands. Then in 1774, Captain Cook explored Fiji, combining the names "Fisi" that people from Tonga called Fiji, and "Viti" that natives Fijians called their islands. It was briefly ruled under an independent kingdom until being transitioned to colonial rule under the British Empire in the 19th century.

Fiji became independent in 1970, after nearly a century as a British colony. Democratic rule was interrupted by two military coups in 1987, caused by concern over a government perceived as dominated by the Indian community (descendants of contract labourers brought to the islands by the British in the 19th century). The coups and a 1990 constitution that cemented native Melanesian control of Fiji led to heavy Indian emigration. The population loss resulted in economic difficulties, but ensured that Melanesians became the majority. A new constitution enacted in 1997 was more equitable. Free and peaceful elections in 1999 resulted in a government led by an Indo-Fijian, but a civilian-led coup in May 2000 ushered in a prolonged period of political turmoil. Parliamentary elections held in August 2001 provided Fiji with a democratically elected government led by Prime Minister Laisenia Qarase. There was another military coup in 2006, led by Commodore Josaia Voreqe (Frank) Bainimarama. An election was held in 2014 and Bainimarama's FijiFirst party won a majority of seats.

Culture
Indigenous Fijian culture and tradition is very vibrant and is an integral component of everyday life for the majority of Fiji's population. However, Fijian society has also evolved over the past century with the addition of Indian and Chinese immigrants, and because of heavy influences from Europe and Fiji's Pacific neighbours, particularly Tonga and Samoa. Thus, the various cultures of Fiji have come together to create a unique multicultural national identity.

Holidays

 * 1 January: New Year's Day
 * Feb/Mar: Holi
 * Rau Naumi (not an official holiday)
 * Easter (variable)
 * Eid al-Fitr (Islamic religious observance)
 * 10 October: Fiji Day (Independence Day)
 * Oct/Nov: Diwali (Festival of Lights)
 * 25 December: Christmas Day
 * 26 December: Boxing Day

Tourist information

 * Fiji Travel website

Talk
Fiji has three official languages, namely English, Fijian and Hindi.

Fijian is the first language of the native Melanesian population, while a local variant of Hindi is mainly spoken by those of Indian descent. English is the lingua franca and medium of instruction in Fijian schools, and is widely spoken across Fiji. Residents of some remote islands may not be fluent in English, so learning some Fijian phrases will come in handy when travelling to those areas. Even in major cities, it is always polite to greet people with bula (meaning "hello" or "life" in Fijian) as it shows appreciation of the local culture.

A small number of other indigenous East Fijian and West Fijian regional languages (including Rotuman, a language spoken by the Rotuman people of Rotuma) are spoken on the islands, standard Fijian belonging to the East Fijian group.

Entry requirements
Fiji has a liberal travel policy, and citizens of over 100 countries including the US, the EU, India and China do not need a visa. Most visitors are granted permits on arrival that last 4 months. The visitor permit may be extended for up to 2 additional months for a fee. All visitors receive entry stamps, but not exit stamps.

All others will need a visa. Visas can be applied for online, are processed in 3 working days, and cost $91/180 for single/multiple entry.

By plane
Nadi International Airport is Fiji's main international airport, and the main air hub for the Pacific island nations. Suva airport also has some international flights. Flag carrier Fiji Airways flies to Nadi directly from Los Angeles, San Francisco ( and Honolulu in the United States, Vancouver  in Canada, as well as Hong Kong , Singapore , Tokyo  and many locations throughout Australia, New Zealand and the rest of the Pacific. Air New Zealand operates flights to Nadi from Auckland , while Qantas operates flights from Sydney.

From Brisbane the flight to Fiji is approximately 3 hours and 40 minutes, from Sydney 4 hours and 30 minutes and from Melbourne it is 5 hours and 30 minutes.

By boat
You can enter Fiji by boat from Australia through the Australia shore connection. Yachts must not stop at any island until they have clearance from Customs, Immigration, Health, and Biohazard officials. There are five official ports of entry in Fiji: Savusavu on Vanua Levu, Levuka on Ovalau, Suva and Lautoka on Viti Levu, and Oinafa on Rotuma.

Fiji is also a common port of call for cruise ships departing from Australia.

Get around
Fiji has a variety of public transport options, including buses, share taxis, and private taxis. Rates are very cheap: $1-2 (Fiji dollars) from Colo-i-Suva to Suva bus station by bus, $17 from Nadi bus station to Suva by share-taxi (share-taxis are usually white mini-vans that congregate and set-off when they reach their capacity of 6-8), or approximately $80 from Suva airport to Sigatoka by private taxi. On the main road circling Viti Levu buses run every half hour and taxis are a substantial proportion of traffic, while on western Taveuni buses make only a few runs per day and very little traffic is present. If the taxi has a meter, ask the driver to switch it on - the ride will be lot cheaper than with the negotiated price.

The rate from resorts on Nadi beach to Nadi downtown is $8 per passenger, and $12 to the airport -- you should be able to negotiate this price reasonably easily.

While there is rarely much traffic, most vehicles run on diesel and pollution on major roadways can be severe. A national speed limit of 80 km/h is usually observed; village speed limits are all but entirely ignored, but drivers slow down for several speed humps distributed within each village. Seat belts are advised on taxis but are rarely evident and apparently never used.

Road travel tends to be more dangerous than many people are used to, and many embassies advise their citizens to avoid pretty much any form of road travel. Pot holes, washouts and dilapidated bridges are commonplace. Buses are the best, unless you are truly comfortable and capable of renting and driving a car on your own - most people are not even if they think they are. Avoid travel at night, especially outside of urban areas. Another option is hop-on, hop-off bus passes which allow you to tour Fiji at your own pace for a fixed price. These are a more expensive way to travel but feature inclusions like tours and activities. However, some like Feejee Experience are limited to Viti Levu and trips to Beachcomber island and don't include the more remote islands.

Inter-island
Denarau Marina on Denarau Island is the gateway to all the inhabited Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands. This is where most cruises and ferries serving Fiji's tourism-oriented western islands operate from. Denarau Island is connected to the mainland via a short bridge, and is 20 minutes from Nadi International Airport. Alternatively, there are additional services to the Yasawas from Lautoka, about 30 min to the north of Nadi. South Sea Cruises operates daily inter-island ferry transfers throughout Fiji's Mamanuca Island resorts, except Malolo Lailai (see Malolo Cat below). Awesome Adventures Fiji and the smaller Tavewa Seabus provide daily ferry transfers out to the remote Yasawa Islands. Inter-island ferries are reasonably priced and have a good safety record, though they may be busy at the beginning and end of school holiday periods. Ferries typically offer two or three classes (depending on the ship).

For fast boats to popular Malolo Lailai, the Malolo Cat service runs multiple daily departures from Denarau. A handy resource to compare and combine all ferry departures, timetables and connections to these island groups can be found on Fiji-bookings. The furthest extremes of the Yasawa islands take most of the day to reach, depending on weather, up to 5 or 6 hours. The Mamanucas, while on average much closer to the mainland, can also take multiple hours to reach. It is compulsory to be booked at an island resort for at least 1 night if you wish to disembark at any of the islands serviced by the ferry routes.

Fiji Searoad provides slow (car) ferry routes from eastern Viti Levu to Vanua Levu, Ovalau and Koro. They also include bus transfers from all main settlements on Viti Levu in combination with their ferry departures. However, in most cases it is wise to compare the pros and cons of such a long sea voyage (typically 10-12 hr) with more abundant and much faster (however more expensive) domestic flights.

Economy ($65 pp on Suva-Taveuni route) is the cheapest option, but requires you to sleep on chairs or on the floor. Sleeper ($104 pp, Suva-Taveuni) is dormitory-like accommodation. Cabin ($135 pp on MV Suiliven, $95 pp on SOFE, Suva-Taveuni) is not necessarily the best option, as the space is very limited, cabin can be shared (4 beds) and can have hordes of bugs.

Do not attempt to take a car to another island unless you own it or have made clear special arrangements: most rental companies forbid it and they do prosecute tourists who violate this clause in the contract.

Getting to the more remote islands such as the Lau group usually is exclusively possible by boat charter, domestic flight or plane charter. An official invitation from the local chief is usually required.

Bicycle
Bicycles are becoming more popular in Fiji for locals and tourists alike. In many ways, Fiji is an ideal place for a rugged bike tour. However, the motor vehicle traffic can be intimidating on well-travelled roads, and there is a lack of accommodation along secondary roads. Cycling is a great way to see Fiji but make sure you carry all your own spares and supplies as bike shops are scarce. It is a good idea to carry plenty of water, a camelbak is great, as it is very hot and humid almost year round.

The main road around the largest island, Viti Levu, is sealed except for a 40-km section on the east side. A sturdy road, touring or hybrid bike is suitable.

Bike rental can be quite expensive comparing to other options: on Taveuni bike for full day costs $25. With two persons the cost is similar to renting a car.

Railway
The extensive system of narrow gauge railways used to transport sugar cane to the refineries also carried passengers for free or cheaply in the past, but the infrastructure is falling into disrepair and the opportunities are closing. Thus, the Coral Coast Railway offers a tourist train ride, but no further than Sigatoka as the railway river bridge there has collapsed. Its station is at 18°8'27"S 177°25'50"E (across the main road from The Gecko Lodge, by the turnoff to the Shangri-la Resort) and its westward excursions from that station are off, because of another unrepaired bridge collapse immediately west of the station. Mechanical failures may mean no offerings during the time of your visit.

There is talk of another tourist train scheme based in Nadi. As you leave the airport, you will cross the tracks.

See

In short, the natural treasures alone are worth the trip, but this island nation does have a number of cultural sights to offer. There's the beautiful Garden of the Sleeping Giant on Nadi, once owned by famous actor Raymond Burr who lived here. It holds over 20 hectares full of orchids native to Fiji, many cultivated and exotic plants plus a lovely lily pond. Make a trip to one of the many villages to take part in a kava-ceremony or to see one of the many other remaining cultural traditions. Navala village (on Viti Levu) still maintains its traditional bures, making it an excellent pick. For a deeper insight in the country's history and culture, the Fiji Museum on Suva is an excellent addition to your trip.

Sport
Sport is a large part of Fijian culture.

 * Rugby union is the national sport, and even in the poorest villages, you can see children playing rugby in any open field available making use of plastic bottles or something similar as substitutes if they can't afford to buy an actual rugby ball. The ANZ stadium in Suva is Fiji's national stadium, and the Fijian national team typically performs a traditional war dance known as the cibi before every test match. Fiji contests the Pacific Nations Cup with the neighbouring countries of Tonga and Samoa, and regularly sends teams to the Rugby World Cup, having made the quarter finals twice. In addition to the traditional 15-a-side game, Fiji also regularly competes in rugby sevens, where it is the world's most successful team, having been the most successful team in the Hong Kong Sevens, as well as the winner of the gold medal at the inaugural rugby sevens tournament at the Olympics.
 * Soccer (also known as football) is a growing sport in Fiji. The Fiji Premier League is the highest men's soccer league in Fiji, which has promotion and relegation with the Fiji Senior League, while the highest women's league is the Fiji Women's Super League, which has promotion and relegation with the Fiji Women's Senior League. Fiji has never qualified for the Olympic football tournament, nor have they ever qualified for the FIFA World Cup or the FIFA Women's World Cup. The men's national team is nicknamed the "Bula Boys".

Learn

 * University of the South Pacific, Suva
 * Fiji National University
 * The Fiji School of Medicine

Money
In Fiji the currency is the Fijian dollar, denoted by the symbol "F$" or "$" (ISO currency code: FJD). Wikivoyage articles will use $ to denote the currency.

Bills include: $2, $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100. You may also encounter a $7 Fijian note, although you're better off keeping that rather than spending it as it is quite rare. Coins include: 5 cents, 10 cents, 20 cents, 50 cents, $1, and a $2 coin. In some areas, the Australian dollar is also accepted, but unlike some other Pacific Island countries, AUD is not the preferred method of payment.

Tipping
In Fiji, tipping is virtually non-existent. This includes no tipping to taxis, hotels, bellpersons, restaurants, etc. However, at most all-inclusive resorts and amongst the scuba diving operations, they have a "Christmas Box" where you can donate money that is shared equally amongst all the staff at Christmas time.

Concerns
Expect to pay prices similar to those of Australia in tourist regions.

Be aware when going to local markets, often some of the stall holders family will be outside on the lookout for travellers, and will escort the travellers inside using the guise of "getting the best bargains". Once inside they, and their relatives who own the stall, can become quite aggressive if the traveller does not buy their products. Be firm, tell them that you will report them to the authorities if they do not leave you alone. They will quickly change their tone and back down.

Also be aware of small travel counters acting as travel agents, even in some hotels, or on wharves where boats pull in. They may not be accredited, or may be an outright scam. While tourist police have been created to assist tourists in such predicaments, time constraints may restrict tourists ability to retrieve monies. Ask resort managers for more advice.

Indigenous Fijian cuisine
Traditional food in Fiji relies heavily on tubers like taro, yams, sweet potatoes (kumala), manioc (tavioka) and breadfruit (uto), served with a relish made from meat, fish, seafood, and vegetables. Dishes to look out for:

 * palusami, baked taro leaves marinated in lemon juice and coconut milk often with some meat or fish filling and a bit of onion or garlic
 * kokoda, raw fish or other seafood marinated in lemon and coconut milk, similar to ceviche
 * lovo, food cooked in a pit oven. Not found at restaurants, but many hotels offer lomo "feasts" for dinner.

Don't miss fresh tropical fruits, found at the farmer's market in any town when in season. Vutu is a local variety of nut mainly grown on the island of Beqa, but also available in Suva and other towns around January and February. A great deal of food is cooked in coconut milk: everyone reacts different to increased fat levels in their diet. Chicken is often served chopped into pieces with the bones left.

While traditional Fijian cuisine is quite bland, Indian migrants brought along their food and have definitely spiced things up. South Asian cuisine is widely available and thali platters served with rice and roti flatbread are spicy, cheap and often delicious.

Indian cuisine
Due to the large number of Indians in Fiji, Indo-Fijians have developed their own cuisine, which blends traditional Indian cuisine with Fijian and Western cuisines.

Fiji is home to many local curry variants. One of the most well-known Fijian curries is fish suruwa, a type of fish curry that originated in Fiji.

Where to eat
Locals eat in the cafes and small restaurants that are found in every town. The food is wholesome, cheap, and highly variable in quality. What you order from the menu is often better than what comes out of the glass display case, except for places that sell a lot of food quickly and keep putting it out fresh. Fish and Chips are usually a safe bet, and are widely available. Many cafes serve Chinese food of some sort along with Indian and sometimes Fiji-style fish, lamb, or pork dishes. Near the airport, a greater variety of food is found, including Japanese and Korean.

Fiji also has some fast food options in cities and major towns, including McDonald's (locally known as "Maccas") and Burger King.

Drink
A very popular drink in Fiji is yaqona ("yang-go-na"), also known as "kava" and sometimes referred to as "grog" by locals. Kava is a peppery, earthy tasting drink made from the root of the pepper plant (piper methysticum). Its effects include a numbed tongue and lips (usually lasting only about 5-10 minutes) and relaxed muscles. Kava is mildly intoxicating, especially when consumed in large quantities or on a regular basis and you should avoid taxi and other drivers who have been drinking. It should not be consumed alongside alcohol.

Kava drinking in Fiji became popular during the fall of cannibalism, and originated as a way to resolve conflict and facilitate peaceful negotiations between villages. If you are invited to a Fijian village or household, it is the most common gift (sevusevu) offering to bring.

Beer is also popular, particularly the ubiquitous Fiji Bitter. While a fairly new development, some of those sugarcane fields are now put to good use by distilling rum, and the Rum Company of Fiji has a nice range under the brands Bati and Ratu.

Sleep

 * See towns in Fiji for detailed hotel listings.

Fiji is a popular tourist destination and has plenty of accommodation in all price brackets. Most resorts are near the main airport at Nadi or the nearby Mamanuca Islands. Nadi has backpacker-friendly lodges, while the international big brands are mostly nearby at Denarau Island. Hotels in the capital Suva are geared more towards business travellers.

Most Fiji travel agents will take a commission of 15 and 20% along with your booking, which may be called a "deposit". Since this is an up-front payment, it is often beneficial to only book one night, and then you may be able to negotiate a lesser rate for subsequent nights (if space is available).

Many smaller and simpler accommodations have "local rates" and can give discounts that are simply huge if you can book a room in person (or have a local do it for you) and give a legitimate local address and phone number. In the Suva area, the Raffles Tradewinds is nice and quiet and about a dollar by frequently running buses from central down town. Sometimes upon arrival at the airport in Nadi, you can stop at the Raffles Gateway across from the airport entrance and book a room at the Tradewinds at a good local rate if business is slow.

Crime
Most crime takes place in the outer suburbs of Suva and Nadi, away from the resort areas. The best advice is to stick to hotel grounds after dark, and to use extreme caution in Suva, Nadi and other urbanised areas after nightfall. Travellers have been victims of violent crime, particularly in Suva. Travellers have reported the regularity of petty robberies, muggings, and also home-invasions/rape, etc. You will notice the predominance of bars on most peoples' homes. Economic and ethnic strife has led to a low-level hum of violent crime. Some resorts and hotels have more extensive security measures than others which should be taken into account.

Muggings are often carried out by large groups of men so being in a group won't necessarily be a deterrent. Police forces sometimes have difficulties responding to crime, potentially for reasons as mundane as being unable to pay for petrol.

Fijian culture encourages sharing and sometimes small things like shoes will be "borrowed". Often by speaking with the village chief it can be arranged to get things returned.

Political unrest
Fiji has been subject to occasional political unrest and upheaval, including five coups d'état since 1987, with the most recent occurring in 2009. These upheavals have damaged the Fijian economy, including its tourism sector, and have led to relative international isolation. While as of April 2021 there is no significant unrest or potential for a coup, visitors should stay aware of political news in the country and those doing business in Fiji should ensure that their contracts and visas remain valid. Even in the event of unrest, tourists at resorts and hotels will likely remain safe, especially if they are not in Suva. If unrest does happen, and you happen to be in a hotspot such as Suva, avoid areas where protests may occur, and have the information for your country's embassy handy in case you are detained or are required to evacuate.

LGBT travellers
Although Fiji is a religious country, Fijians are generally quite tolerant of LGBT people. Fiji has more advanced LGBT rights than almost every other Oceanian country, the sole exceptions being Australia and New Zealand.

The age of consent in Fiji, regardless of sexual orientation or gender, is 16, with the laws being the same in the United Kingdom, New Zealand and most of Australia. Consensual sex between two men has been legal in Fiji since 2009.

Discrimination, including on the basis of sexual orientation or gender identity, has been banned by the Constitution since 1997. Fiji was the second country in the world to enshrine discrimination protections for LGBT people in its constitution, the first being South Africa.

Same-sex marriage and civil unions are not legally recognised in Fiji. The only Oceanian countries where same-sex marriages are legally recognised are Australia and New Zealand.

Diseases
Fiji is relatively free of disease compared to most of the tropics. Avoid mosquito-borne illnesses, such as dengue fever and even elephantiasis by covering up thoroughly or using repellents while outdoors at dawn or dusk.

Drinking water
While water is often unsafe to drink in several Pacific Island nations, water in Fiji is generally safe to drink, though filtering or boiling is advisable when unsure. Urban tap water is treated and nearly always safe. When exceptions occasionally arise, there are public warnings or radio and print media warnings. Contaminated food is uncommon, though on occasion, mature reef fish can contain mild neurotoxins they accumulate in their bodies from freshwater algae that wash into the ocean. The effects of such "fish-poisoning" are usually intense for only a day or two, but tingling lips and unusual sensitivities to hot and cold can linger for a long time.

Water safety
Drownings are common, and automobile and other motor vehicle accidents (often involving animals or pedestrians) are very common. Local emergency medical care is very good on the basics in urban areas. Expect long waits in government-run clinics and hospitals. Treatment for serious conditions often requires an evacuation to New Zealand or Australia. Even the most basic medical care is usually not available outside of urban areas.

Sun safety
Fiji, like most of the South Pacific, can have intense solar radiation that can cause severe skin-burns in a short amount of time. Be sure to use hats, sunglasses and liberal amounts of high-SPF value sunblock on ALL exposed skin (including ears, noses and tops-of-feet) when out in the sun. On top of that tropical boils are a common inconvenience in Fiji, this can be avoided by giving those sweaty sections of the body a soapy scrub more than once a day.

Religion
Fiji, like many Pacific Island states, has a strong Christian moral society; having been colonised and converted to Protestantism by missionaries during the 19th century. Do not be surprised if shops and other businesses are closed on Sunday. The Sabbath starts at 6PM the day before, and some businesses celebrate the Sabbath on a Saturday instead of a Sunday. Many Indians are Hindu or Muslim.

Dress
Dress modestly and appropriately. While Fiji is a tropical country, beach-wear should be confined to the beach. Take your cues from the locals as to what they consider appropriate dress for the occasion. When visiting towns and villages, you should be sure to cover your shoulders and wear shorts or sulus (sarongs) that cover your knees (both genders). This is especially true for visiting a church, although locals will often lend you a sulu for a church visit.

There is no nudist/naturist or topless bathing in Fiji.

Connect
There are two mobile phone companies operating on the island (Vodafone, Digicel) as well as an MVNO (Inkk) which resells Vodafone's network. Tourists are invited to use prepaid sim chips which can be found free or cheap in the mobile operator kiosks in the Nadi airport. You can top-up the balance online with a credit card, or by visiting a retail store that advertises top ups. The phone number is required to top up and is provided when signing up for the sim chip so please make a note of it.

Buying a SIM chip gives access to cheap data packages for easy internet access using your phone as a hot-spot. It is generally cheaper than resort Wi-Fi, and speed is reasonable with the connections in the tourist areas (1-8Mbps with an objective 2.5Mbps average based on use in Nadi). You can request a data-only sim to get access to cheaper data packages. Some plans offer free social media data. Be sure to ask the sales agent about promotions. Both networks use 900Mhz for GSM and a mix of 800/1800/2100Mhz for 3G/4G.

 * Vodafone offers a battery powered portable wifi device for $59 branded as "Pocket WiFi". The device can be unlocked for use in other countries by contacting support via email or using the online chat feature on the website. In October 2021 a $15 prepaid plan grants 100GB of data.
 * Digicel offers prepaid "Digimodem" plans. The sim card must be converted to a data sim by the sales rep only after inserting it into a modem. Digicel offers a portable battery powered dual-band Wi-Fi device for $199 which is locked to the Digicel Fiji network. Check in retail stores for more economical modems or bring your own unlocked modem. Alternatively, a mobile phone can be used as a hotspot with slightly more expensive regular data charges.

Public phones are numerous and usually easy to find (look around shops). Calling cards can be used to make international calls. Internet cafes are available in city centers.

title: Fiji


text:
Fijian phrasebook

Fijian (Na Vosa Vakaviti) is the main language of Fiji.

Vowels

 * a as in father
 * e as in bait, but without the 'y' glide at the end
 * i as in beat, but without the 'y' glide at the end
 * o as in boat, but without the 'w' glide at the end
 * u as in boot, but without the 'w' glide at the end

Consonants
The consonants that are rather different from in English are:
 * b as 'mb' in member
 * d as 'nd' in Monday
 * q as 'ng' plus 'g' in finger
 * g as 'ng' in singer
 * c as 'th' in father

Basics

 * Hello. : Ni Sa Bula (Nnee-Sah-Buhlah)
 * Hello. (informal) : Bula. (Buhlah) literally means "life"
 * How are you? : Formal: Sa Vaka eVei tiko? Informal (Sah Vaka eVeih?)
 * Fine, thank you. : Bula Bula Vinaka Tiko, Vinaka (Buhlah Buhlah Vee-nah-kah teekoh )
 * What is your name? : O Cei na yacamu? (Oh-they nah ya-tha muuh?)
 * My name is ______ . : Na yacaqu ko ______ . (Na ya-tha-ngu koh  _____ .)
 * Nice to meet you. : La bula la ni bula. ( )
 * Please. : Kerekere. (Kerreh-kerreh)
 * Thank you. : Vinaka. (Vee-Nah-Kah )
 * Thank you very much. : Vinaka vaka levu! (Vee-Nah-Kah Vahkah Le Vuuh )
 * You're welcome. : Sa donu
 * Yes. : Io . (Ee-yo )
 * No. : Sega. (Sengah)
 * Excuse me. (getting attention) : Kemuni. ( Khe-muh-ni)
 * Excuse me.: Tulou. (too-low )
 * I'm sorry. : Vosoti au. (Vo-so-tee ow)
 * Goodbye : ni sa Moce (Formal: Nnee Sah Mow They), Moce (informal: Mow They)
 * I can't speak Fijian [well]. : Au sega ni vosa vaka Viti []. (Ah uuh sen ngah nee vosah vaka Viti' [Formal])
 * Do you speak English? : E rawa beka mo vosa vakavalagi?Ko ni kila na vosa Vaka Valagi? (con knee keyla na vossa vakah Viti?)
 * Is there someone here who speaks English? : E tiko beka eke edua, e rawa ni vosa vakavalagi? (Ee teako bekah ekeh eduah e rahwa knee vosah vakah Viti?)
 * Help! : Kere veivuke! (keh-reh vehi vukhe!)
 * Look out! : Raica! (Rai-tha!)
 * Good morning. Formal : Ni Sa Yadra! (Nee Sa Yandra)
 * Good evening. : Yakavi vinaka . ( )
 * Good night. : Ni sa moce . ( )
 * Good night (to sleep) : Moce . (mo-they)
 * I don't know. : Au sega ni kila. (Aah Uuu Senga Nnee kee-lah)
 * I don't understand : Au Sega ni taura rawa
 * Where is the bathroom? : Ivei na valelailai? (Eeh Vhei nah vahle lahilahi?)
 * No Worries : Sega na Lega ("Senga-na-lenga")
 * How Much? : E Vica (Eeh-vee-tha?) Formal: E vica na kena i sau (Eeh Veetha nah kenah i sah uu?)
 * See you again : Sota Tale (Soh-tah-tah-lay)

Numbers

 * 0: Saiva
 * 1: Dua
 * 2: Rua
 * 3: Tolu
 * 4: Va
 * 5: Lima
 * 6: Ono
 * 7: Vitu
 * 8: Walu
 * 9: Ciwa
 * 10: Tini
 * 11: Tini ka dua
 * 12: Tini ka rua
 * 13: Tini ka tolu
 * 14: Tini ka va
 * 15: Tini ka lima
 * 16: Tini ka ono
 * 17: Tini ka vitu
 * 18: Tini ka walu
 * 19: Tini ka ciwa
 * 20: Rua saga vulu
 * 21: Rua saga vulu ka dua
 * 30: Tolu saga vulu
 * 40: Va saga vulu
 * 50: Lima saga vulu
 * 60: Ono saga vulu
 * 70: Vitu saga vulu
 * 80: Walu saga vulu
 * 90: Ciwa saga vulu
 * 100: E dua na drau
 * 500: E lima na drau
 * 1000: Udolu / Dua na Udolu
 * 5000: Lima na Udolu
 * 1000000: milioni
 * Haif : veimama

Time

 * Now : sa
 * After : muri
 * Before : I liu
 * Morning : mata'a
 * Afternoon : ya'avi
 * Night : bogi

Clock time :

 * 1 o'clock: dua na kaloko

 * 2 o'clock: rua na kaloko

 * 11 o'clock: Tini ka dua na kaloko

Duration

 * Minute : miniti
 * Hour : aua
 * Day : siga
 * Week : macawa
 * Month : vula
 * Year : yaba'i

Days :

 * yesterday : nanoa
 * Today : nikua
 * Tomorrow : nimataka
 * Moniti: (Monday) [Moh-nee-tee]

 * Tusiti: (Tuesday) [Too-See-tee]

 * Vukelulu: (Wednesday) [Vooh-keh-loo-loo]

 * Lotulevu: (Thursday) [Lo- too-leh-voo]

 * Vakaraubuka: (Friday) [Vaa-kaa-rah-who-boo-kah]

 * Vakarauwai: (Saturday) [Va-kah-rah-who-waah-ee]

 * Sigatabu: (Sunday) [Seenga-ta-boo]

Months

 * January: Vakajanueri
 * February: Vakafepereuri
 * March: Vakamaji
 * April: Vakaepereli
 * May: Vakame
 * June: Vakajune
 * July: Vakajulai
 * August: Vakaokosita
 * September: Vakasepiteba
 * October: Vakaokotova
 * November: Vakanoveba
 * December: Vakatiseba

Seasons

 * Autumn : vulaimatumatua

Colors

 * White : vulavula
 * Black : loaloa
 * Gray : dravu
 * Red : damudamu
 * Blue : karakarawa
 * Yellow : dromodromo
 * Green : drokadroka
 * Pink : senikavika
 * Orange : seninawanawa
 * Brown : kuvui
 * Violet : lokaloka

Transportation

 * Bus : basi
 * Car : motoka
 * Train : sitima ni vanua
 * Airplane : waqavuka

Bus and train

 * I will catch a bus : au na vodo basi

Directions

 * Left : mawi
 * Rigth : matau
 * North : vualiku
 * south : ceva

Money

 * Money : ilavo
 * I don't have any money : e sega na noqu ilavo
 * How much does it cost? : E Vica na kena isau?

Eating

 * I'd like a coffee, please : au kerea dua na mequ bilo kofi
 * Breakfast : ikatalau
 * Bread : madrai
 * Chicken : toa
 * Beef : bulumakau
 * Butter : bata
 * Cheese : jisi
 * Milk : sucu

Bars

 * Two beers, please : rua na bia, kerekere

Places

 * Fiji : Viti ( )
 * Australia : Ositerelia ( )
 * New Zealand : Niusiladi ( )
 * Papua New Guinea : Papua Niu Kini ( )
 * Sydney : Serene ( )
 * Melbourne : Merevani ( )
 * Brisbane : Perisipani ( )
 * Perth : Pefa ( )
 * Auckland : Okaladi ( )
 * Adelaide : Adelaidi ( )
 * Newcastle : Niukaseli ( )
 * Canberra : Kanapera ( )
 * Christchurch : Keresichechi ( )
 * Wellington : Weligitoni ( )
 * Port Moresby : Poti Moresipi ( )

Shopping

 * I'm going shopping : au lai volivoli

Driving

 * Stop : kele

title: Fijian phrasebook


text:
Filadelfia

Filadelfia is the largest and most important of the Mennonite colonies established in Western Paraguay located 467 km northwest from Asunción. A unique place thanks to its Mennonite heritage, Filadelfia is very different from the rest of Paraguay mainly due to being an industrialized town, German-speaking, and with an economic model based in the cooperative work that provides its citizens a living standard well above that of the country's average. Its remote location and being surrounded by the harsh, sparsely populated, desert-like environment of the Chaco adds a special air to the city. There are also pristine nature reserves not far from town, excellent historical museums, and good lodging and eating facilities. All this in a welcoming Mennonite community just off the desolate Transchaco highway.

Understand
Founded by German Mennonites in 1930, today Filadelfia is the largest and most important city of the Chaco with a population of about 18,000 inhabitants. It is also the capital of Boquerón department and the administrative center of the Fernheim Cooperative, one of the largest in Paraguay which, in turn, is responsible for running many aspects and services of the city like the hospital, the main supermarket, the savings bank, the school, and many others, which are paid for by the profits from the cooperative. A large fraction of its population descends from German Mennonites who immigrated from the former Soviet Union in the 1930s. Though most people associate Filadelfia with Mennonites, there are a number of non-Mennonite residents as well. The fact is that the Mennonites comprise 30% of the population and run most of the local businesses and tourist facilities. There are four indigenous communities — the Nivaclé, the Guaraní, the Enxet and the Ayoreo — who account for 60% of the population. The remainder are Latin Paraguayans and foreigners who are neither Mennonite nor indigenous. Filadelfia is the most cosmopolitan of the communities of the Chaco; walking down the streets you are likely to see blond farmers in overalls, modern-looking Latinos speaking on cell phones, and indigenous women wearing long skirts decorated with bright cartoonish prints.

History
The word ‘Fernheim’ is a composition of two German words, which stand for ‘far away home’. The first settlers moved in from the Russian Federation under the sporsonship of the then German president Paul von Hindenburg and found a new home in the central Chaco of Paraguay. In 1930, a group of 1572 people arrived from Russia and established the Fernheim colony. Originally, they organized themselves in 12 villages of 20 – 25 farms each. The following years they added up other smaller groups and nowadays they total 25 villages plus the city of Filadelfia. For the administration of the colonizing society and the coordination of the sale of the agricultural products, as well as the supply of consumer products, it was necessary to establish an administrative center. The decision was made to establish Filadelfia on the site where the city is now located. Here they had found enough underground freshwater and it was the central point for all the villages. The Mennonites still speak their ancestral Low German language (Plattdeutsch).

Economy
Filadelfia is the economic hub of the Chaco. Mennonites, indigenous Paraguayans from Asunción and Brazilians have been attracted to the area by job opportunities. The economy is mostly cattle herding, beef processing, and industrialization of dairy products. The colony produces five main agricultural goods: castor beans (for hydraulic oil), cotton, sorbum (for biodiesel), sesame and peanuts. Nearly all of the Mennonite families have shares in the Fernheim cooperative. Outsiders (non-Mennonites) can rent or buy land from the cooperative on condition of living one year among the community so their character can be judged. The cooperative collects 10% of a member's earnings and in return members get use of all the benefits the cooperative offers, such as discounts at the supermarket, health insurance, elderly care, university scholarship, among others which are not provided by the Paraguayan government. They may also get financial dividends, but they will sometimes hold votes on whether to retain the dividends and invest them in new facilities and benefits. The cooperative provides services for non-members, such as schools and radio broadcasts for the indigenous population. Filadelfia is very segregated with the majority of non-Mennonites living in the Barrio Amistad neighbourhood and the city's indigenous residents living in the Barrio Villa Guaraní.

Water supply is a major issue in the Chaco; all households in the city are able to collect rainwater which can be stored for use. A project of desalinisation of ground water is underway as rainfall can sometimes be low. Electricity is supplied by ANDE, the state-owned power company; it used to be generated locally by burning wood. The population is growing 4% per year, while demands on power grow 20% per year, as affluence increases.

Orientation
Avenida Hindenburg is the main street, stretching from north to south with stores, hotels and restaurants all along it. When coming from Asunción you enter the city from the south as you take Avenida Hindenburg at the site of the Third Monument. Those coming from neighbouring Loma Plata enter the city from the west through Avenida Trébol, the other major street in Filadelfia. Avenida Trébol crosses Avenida Hindenburg in the middle of the city at the site of the Second Monument. There is no central square or big church in the city center. The headquarters of the Fernheim Cooperative, at Avenida Hindenburg and Calle Unruh, will be your main point of reference when asking for directions. The city is surrounded by an endless sea of semiarid flat bush forest, which is the characteristic environment of the dry Chaco region.

Climate
The weather in Filadelfia is dry. The hottest months of summertime last from November to March and the heat can be severe. In winter, temperatures can drop below freezing and the chill can be strong from one day to another. This is due to the desert environment of the Chaco and visitors should bring appropriate clothing and drink plenty of water.

Talk
The Mennonite community speak German as their mother tongue. Officially their ethno-language is Plautdietsch, a German dialect of the East Low German group, however the majority of the Chaco Mennonites uses Standard German in church and for reading and writing. Non-Mennonites speak both Spanish and Guaraní as Paraguay is a bilingual country, the first one in the Americas that made its indigenous tongue an official language. English is taught in the Mennonite schools and widely understood amongst the young population.

Get in
Overland is the only way to get to Filadelfia.

By bus
Buses terminate at the office on calle Chaco Boreal; you may also disembark on the hotels located along Avenida Hindenburg, the main street. Some buses stop in Loma Plata first and then continue on to Fildelfia. The main bus company serving the area is NASA-Golondrina (not to be confused with top service bus company NSA). 2 buses (11:00, 20:45), Gs.115,000 (Jan 2023)
 * to Asunción 467 km, ~7 hr, 5 buses per day (7:15, 13:00, 14:30, 21:00, 22:00), GS.140,000 (Feb 2023)
 * to Loma Plata 21 km, ~45 min, 1 bus per day, GS.10,000
 * to Mariscal Estigarribia 75 km, ~2 hr, 2 buses per day (14:30, 21:00, 3:00) GS.30,000 (Mar 2023)
 * to Concepcion

Santa Cruz, Bolivia – The bus travels between Asunción and Santa Cruz and is extremely slow (the Transchaco Highway is only paved as far as the Bolivian border). Buses generally travel only at night - meaning that you miss out on any views of the Chaco, and roadblocks on the Bolivian side of the border can cause your journey time to double. There is at least one bus daily. The trip takes 21-24 hr, costs US$40-60 (bargain if you can), and flights might actually only be marginally more expensive, depending on the time of booking. Any intermediate exit or boarding (like Filadelfia or Villamontes) will likely cost the same as the complete trip. But if your nerves are strong, you will get the price down bargaining directly with the bus driver.

By car
Filadelfia has good road connections to Asunción and the other Mennonite colonies of the Chaco. Even if the road is not paved it will be well kept by the Fernheim Cooperative. The city center is 15 km off the Transchaco Highway. Asunción is 467 km to the southeast, and the Bolivia border is 303 km to the northwest; travelling time to both sides is about 7 hours.

Get around
The town sprawls several kilometers in all directions and there is no public transportation, except for a few taxis, but the terrain is flat and most of the interesting places and tourist attractions can be easily reached on foot as they are along or close to Avenida Hindenburg. The only taxi stand is near the bus terminal.

Museums
There is an excellent array of well-kept museums that showcase the history and social development of the colony. The museums are owned and managed by the Fernheim Cooperative and are all free. However, only the Jakob Unger museum is permanently open to the public. For visiting the other museums you will have to arrange the visit through the tourist office.

In town

 * Relax in one of the shaded city parks like the and the, watching the butterflies and birds flit around the interesting bottle trees (shaped like bottles, high in water content - used to keep cattle hydrated in drought).
 * Explore the tree-lined avenues and dusty streets and take in the mostly regular, solid German architecture in the affluent Mennonite neighbourhoods.
 * You can participate in a Mennonite religious service. There are various Mennonite churches around the city. All are open for foreigners and the tourist office can arrange visits and guide you to many of them. The and the  are the most centrally located. Mennonite churches are not particularly glamorous in their architecture (are quite modern in style) and the iconography of their interiors is not very interesting. They can vary in their routines and traditions; the more conservative ones practice separate seating for men and women - the men sitting on one side of the church and the women on the other. The music is usually a capella congregational singing, with no instrumental accompaniment and no choir or worship team. Prayer is often done while kneeling. Typically after the service, the congregation lingers for a time of talking and fellowship. You are free to participate in the conversation and ask questions. You may find that they are as curious about you as you are about them.

Outdoors

 * For easy access from town follow Ave. Hindenburg out north for about 12km. You will arrive at ‘’Flor del Chaco’’. For GS.10,000 you can access their facilities and go to explore various small paths that give you an impression of Chaco flora and fauna. There are some observation/camping spots, and a small observation tower. Armadillos, Tapirs, Foxes and Dear can be found, likely before sunrise or after sunset. (Feb. 2023)

 * Make a visit to one of the estancias (ranches) that are open to receiving visitors like Estancia Campo Norte at 130 km, at 61 km, or the Rancho Garrote at just 4 km from Filadelfia. During your visit you can watch or participate in the estancia activities, or do some hiking in the Chaco bush forests. Ask at the tourist office how to arrange the visit.
 * It is possible to visit some of the indigenous communities but it's not recommended to do so unless you have organized the visit previously with an accredited guide through the tourist office. The main indigenous groups living in the area are the Lengua, also known as the Enxet, who moved to Filadelfia in the 1980s seeking construction work for the men and domestic work for the women. The married Lengua women wear long skirts covering their ankles. The Nivaclés is another ethnic group who are known for the beauty of their women. The Ayoreo are semi-nomadic and are the people who have been least changed by the process of development. They make very attractive fibre bags, coloured in earthy browns and reds. They also sometimes sell honey harvested from the wild.

Festivals

 * The Areté Guazú (Big Celebration) of the Guaraní people coincides with carnival time (starting Saturday night with beauty peasant, mascerade celebration on Sunday morning, Monday, and finally Tuesday evening before Ash Wednesday). It is even referred to by the indigenous community as their own carnival celebration. It's the only opportunity when the indigenous people, who are generally shy and little prone to be visited by foreigners, issue a general invitation to anyone to visit and join them in their annual festival. In Filadelfia the celebration takes place in the social club of their barrio (neighbourhood) Yvopey Renda. They wear long costumes and masks - of tigers, pigs or frightening faces of dead ancestors - The music is played on their traditional instruments, such as flutes and drums. People dance and drink chicha, a beverage made from the fermented fruit of the algarrobo - a tree that grows only in the Chaco.

Buy
It's recommended that visitors to the Chaco bring cash, as outside hotels, major restaurants or the cooperative supermarket, only a few shops in town accept credit cards. Local artisan goods from jewellery to statuettes, both of Guaraní and German tradition can be found in local shops. If you need to exchange currency, there are two banks in town (both along Av. Hindenburg) and they reportedly take US dollars and Brazilian reais. Cooperativa Fernheim is between Calle Unruh and Calle Industrial and Itaú is just south of the supermarket. The latter is also equipped with an ATM, which accepts international cards. Most businesses and shops are closed weekdays from 12:00-14:00, Saturday afternoon and Sunday.

Eat

Drink
The Mennonites are very hardworking people and after dark it seems that everyone goes to bed. However, south of the Fernheim supermarket, where the indigenous and Latino neighbourhoods are located, you will find a few small bars.

Sleep
Hotels in Filadelfia are in the mid-range category. They can offer new and old rooms. Old rooms are cheaper, but they don't have air conditioning and are not recommended in summer. Take note that during the annual Transchaco Rally competition in late September/early October, it's almost impossible to get a hotel room without prior reservation.

Connect

 * Most hotels offer Wi-Fi for guests. Claro and Tigo have decent 3G coverage in the area.
 * Why not send postcards from the post office at the supermarket? A Filadelfia stamped card will have probably one of the most unlikely frank-marks anyone will ever receive from you. The post-office sells cards for GS.4,500, and stamps for abroad start at GS.15,000 (March 2019)

Go next
Filadelfia can be a good place to use as a base for visiting the Central Chaco. There are many national parks, nature reserves, and the other Mennonite colonies are close and worth visiting. Additionally, many independent travellers and backpackers continue to Bolivia and Peru.
 * Loma Plata - 25 km to the west. A major Mennonite town, bigger than Filadelfia, with a large industry of dairy products.
 * Neuland - 37 km to the south. It's the smallest of the Mennonite colonies and a charming town close to historic sites full of relics of the Chaco War.
 * Mariscal Estigarribia - 75 km to the northwest. The site of a large military airbase and the last stop before continuing to more remote areas of the central and northern Chaco.
 * Bolivia - There are no direct buses from Filadelfia to the Bolivian border located 303 km to the northwest. To go there you will have to catch the Asunción-Bolivia bus in Mariscal Estigarribia. First purchase your bus ticket at Stel Turismo agency in Filadelfia. You will have to pay for the entire journey from Asuncion and the cost is US$65 to Santa Cruz de la Sierra. Then take the bus to Mariscal Estigarribia and ask the driver to drop you off at the immigration office. You will have to wait there for the bus from Asunción to Bolivia to come. Buses normally depart from Asunción daily at 20:00 and reach Mariscal Estigarribia around 03:00. When the bus arrives the immigration officer will check your passport and issue your exit stamp. Don't board the bus without doing this as there is no Paraguayan immigration at the border. Once you have boarded the bus you will travel for 6-7 hours before you arrive at Bolivian immigration.

title: Filadelfia


text:
Filey

Filey is a seaside town in North Yorkshire, England. It used to be a fishing village, catching sea trout from cobles, but it lacks a harbour: boats have to be dragged up the sands. So its fishermen couldn't compete with better-endowed ports, and in the 19th century the village evolved into a holiday resort. In 2021 the population was 6665.

Filey's long firm sandy beach stretches for 3 miles between the Brigg and Flamborough Head. From 1910 to 1912 this was a test field for early aviation, with Bleriots and other locally-designed aircraft juddering into the sky on shaky wings.

By rail
Filey is on a branch line between Hull and Scarborough, so you can get here in two ways: via York, changing at Seamer (just before Scarborough) for the train towards Hull, or at Hull north via Beverley and Bridlington. The branch line trains run daily but only every two hours or so, and the Seamer connection can be tight. If your train from York is late, ask the conductor if the Hull train can be held. But you'll probably be advised to stay on the train to Scarborough then take Bus 12 / 13, see below, which doesn't go through Seamer.

is a sturdy old brick building with a small waiting room, toilet and ticket machine. There is step-free access to both platforms via the level crossing. Outside is a taxi office, a string of eating places and the bus station.

By road
From M1 / A1 take A64 east past York. This road gets very congested on summer weekends.

From South and Midlands follow M18 east onto M62. Leave at Howden, take A614 to Bridlington then A165. This road can likewise be slow-moving.

Travel news on Yorkshire Coast Radio (96.2FM) will cheerfully confirm that you are indeed stuck in a traffic jam.

There's very little parking by the seafront, as the esplanade huddles against a cliff. Try north end of town, eg round Church Ravine, or the country park towards the Brigg.

By bus
The simplest route is via Scarborough, reached by the hourly Transdev Coastliner 843 from Leeds via York and Malton. Then take East Yorkshire Bus 12 / 13, which runs south from Scarborough daily every 30 min to Filey (30 min) and Bridlington (another 30 min). It's a leisurely trip as the bus visits all the caravan parks along the coast.

From Hull take East Yorkshire Bus 121 to Bridlington. This runs hourly, daily, taking two hours via Beverley and Driffield. Then take the 12 / 13 bus for Filey.

Filey bus station, 100 yards from the railway station, is just a big brick bus shelter with no facilities.

Get around
Bus 12 / 13 gets you along the coast, but the train gets you closer to Hunmanby (for the distillery) and Bempton (for Flamborough Head).

The local taxi firm is Lazer Radio Taxis, tel +44 1723 515515.

See

 * Sculpture along the promenade, such as High tide in short wellies aka Finlay, the great steel fisherman.
 * Gardens: Crescent Gardens, off The Crescent mid-town, is a sedate municipal layout of rose beds and summer bedding plants, with a Victorian bandstand.
 * Glen Gardens south edge of town is a more open space for ball games and picnics; there's a cafe. These were the gardens of Ravine Hall, which no longer stands.
 * Nuns' Walk on the north edge of town is a wildlife space, formerly the convent gardens.
 * Glen Gardens south edge of town is a more open space for ball games and picnics; there's a cafe. These were the gardens of Ravine Hall, which no longer stands.
 * Nuns' Walk on the north edge of town is a wildlife space, formerly the convent gardens.

 * is a freshwater wetland (now rare in this area) at the east end of the village. See bird life, plants and newts. Reach it along Wharfedale Drive.

Do

 * is the rocky neck of land extending from the cliffs of Carr Naze. South of it, the coast is clay, which the sea has scooped out and is still busily eroding to form the bay. A path has been laid along the Brigg, reach it either along the beach or by the path descending from the car park at the top of the Naze. Get yourself out of there two hours before high tide, as a couple of low spots along the Brigg flood early and will cut you off.
 * Cleveland Way is a clear trail leading north-east along the cliff top to Scarborough, and eventually to Whitby. The southbound path leads through Filey to Flamborough Head and Bridlington.
 * Flamborough Head: see Bridlington for these great white cliffs that curtain the south end of the bay.
 * Surf: see Scarborough for Cayton Bay to the north. Reighton Gap to the south also has waves but the surf shop has folded.
 * Golf: Filey GC is south edge of town, white tees 6274 yards, par 71, visitor round £70.
 * Filey Folk Festival is next held F 3 - M 6 May 2024.
 * Filey Steampunk Weekend is held in mid-May.
 * Filey Kite Festival is held in mid-Sep.
 * Filey Kite Festival is held in mid-Sep.

Buy

 * Supermarket: Tesco is by the railway and bus stations, open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 10AM-4PM.
 * Sterchi's sell their own handmade chocolates. They're at 11 Hope St and open daily 9AM-4PM.

Eat

 * Lots of small eateries on or near the main street from railway & bus station down to the shore. They include Amparian (Spanish), Monsoon Indian, San Marco's & Bella Italia, Gold River & Golden Dragon (Chinese).
 * Fish & chips sit-in places include Inghams (Belle Vue St), First Catch (Station Rd) and Dicky Bee's (Mitford St).
 * Charlotte's (or "The Glass House") is fine continental dining at 40 Belle Vue St, open M Tu Th-Sa 11:30AM-19PM, Su noon-3PM.

Drink

 * Filey is a traditional resort: you eat fish & chips, you yell at the dog, you drink beer. So Filey pubs are faring better than in other villages. They include The Imperial on Hope St, Bonhommes on The Crescent, The Buccaneer on Union St, Foords Hotel and The Grapes on Queen St, The Star on Mitford St, The Station on Church St, and Cobble Bar north end of the prom. They're all open daily, mostly 11AM-11PM.
 * Banks Lounge Bar is the standout, an Art Deco cocktail bar in a former bank on Murray St, open Su-F 5-11PM, Su 3PM-midnight.
 * Wold Top Brewery is based on a farm 5 miles southwest of Filey. It doesn't normally offer tours, but see the Distillery for the combined tour.

Sleep

 * B&Bs include Athol House and Binton both on West Ave, White Rose on Southdene, Beachdale on Brooklands, Rutland West on Rutland St, and Three Tuns on Murray St.
 * Caravan parks line the coast. Many units are on long leases, but one that accepts four night stays is Primrose Valley on the main road two miles south of town.
 * B&Bs include Athol House and Binton both on West Ave, White Rose on Southdene, Beachdale on Brooklands, Rutland West on Rutland St, and Three Tuns on Murray St.
 * Caravan parks line the coast. Many units are on long leases, but one that accepts four night stays is Primrose Valley on the main road two miles south of town.

Connect
As of May 2023, Filey and its approach roads have 4G from EE, Three and Vodafone, and 5G from O2.

Go next

 * Scarborough to the north is a larger resort, with a crumbly castle. The rugged coast is scenic further north through Robin Hood's Bay.
 * Bridlington to the south is another trad resort. The main draw is dramatic Flamborough Head.
 * Malton inland is on the edge of the North York Moors and is near sumptuous Castle Howard.

title: Filey