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146 years; affording a light by night, and a thick smoke by day, which has deceived and endangered vessels approaching the shoal waters on this coast. There is emitted from this burning coal, a gummy substance, which the Spaniards call cheta; it is thrown on the shore by the surf, and collected in considerable quantities; it has a strong aromatic smell, and not disagreeable to the taste. It is collected for the purpose of chewing, for which the Spaniards have a particular fondness.

The Cances are very numerous, consisting of a large number of different bands, occupying different parts of the country, from the bay of Saint Bernard, cross the river Grand, towards La Vera Cruz. They are unfriendly to the Spaniards, and kill them when they have opportunity; but are strongly attached to the French. They principally use the bow, and are good hunters. These people are very particular in their dress, differing from most of the other Indians. The dress of the men is straight leather leggins, which resemble pantaloons, and a leather hunting shirt, or frock. The women dress in a long, loose robe, which so entirely covers them, that nothing but their heads and feet are to be seen. No estimate can be made of the numbers of this nation. The Spaniards made slaves of these Indians, and sold numbers of them to the French at Natchitoches; but this practice was prohibited by the King of Spain, and those made slaves were emancipated;


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147 after which some of the women who had been servants in good families, and taught spinning, sewing, and household work, married, and became respectable, well behaved women. Some of them are still living, and have brought up decent families of children. They have a peculiar language, and are understood by signs, in conversing with others. They are at peace with all nations except the Hietans.

The Tankaways or Tanks, claim no exclusive right to any tract of land; are always roving, and have no particular place of abode. They wander over the country watered by the Trinity, Braces, and Colerado, towards Saint a Fè. Their number of men are estimated at about two hundred; are one horde or tribe; dress like the, Cances; are good hunters with the bow; and raise the best breed of horses. They are sometimes enimiesenemies [sic], and at others, friends to the Spaniards. They plant nothing, but live on meat and wild fruit; are a strong athletic people, and excellent horse men.

The Tawakenoes, or Three Canes, reside on the west side of the Braces, and make their usual place of aboad, about two hundred miles west of Nacogdoches, towards Saint a Fè; but make their excursions as low down as the Great Prairies about the Turtle mountain. They are estimated at about two hundred men; are good hunters, principally with the bow, but have some

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148 guns. They speak the language of the Panis, and claim the same ancestors.

The Hietans or Comanches have neither towns nor villages, nor any fixed place of residence. They are divided into so many bands or tribes, that they have scarcely any knowledge of one another. No estimate of their numbers can be made. They never reside in the same place more than a few days, but constantly follow the buffaloe, which afford them their principal food. They carry their tents with them, which are made of neatly dressed skins, in the form of a cone; they are large enough for a family of ten or twelve persons; those of the chiefs are larger, and are some of them sufficient for fifty or sixty people. When they encamp, their tents are pitched in very exact order, so as to form regular streets and squares, which in a few minutes has the appearance of a handsome town, raised, as it were, by enchantment; and they are equally dexterous in striking their tents and preparing to march, when the signal is given. They allot two horses or mules to every tent, one to carry the tent, and the other the poles used in setting it up, which are neatly made of red cedar. They all travel on horse back. They never turn their horses loose to graze, but keep them tied with a long halter; and every two or three days they are obliged to move, to find grass for the support of their horses; for they have always a large number. They have fine horses, and are


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149 horse men. Most of their horses are bred by themselves, and by handling them when very young they are remarkably docile and gentle. Sometimes wild horses are caught and tamed, which are every where amongst them in large droves. They hunt down the buffaloe on horse back, and kill them either with the bow, or a sharp wooden spear, which they carry in their hands. They are said, when they kill a buffaloe, to catch and drink the blood, while it is warm; they likewise eat the liver raw, before it is cold, and use the gall for sauce. They are, for savages, uncommonly neat and clean in their persons and dress. The women wear a long, loose robe, which reaches from the chin to the ground, with a fancy sash or girdle around the waist, all made of neatly dressed leather, on which they paint figures of different colours and significations. The dress of the men is close leather pantaloons, and a hunting frock, made of leather. They cultivate no vegetables, but they season their food with a small cayenne pepper, which grows spontaneously in the country, and some wild herbs. They also make use of wild fruits, particularly a bean, which grows in great plenty on a small tree, resembling a willow, called masketo. With these articles the women will cook their buffaloe beef in a manner highly grateful to the taste. They occupy alternately a vast extent of country from the Trinity, Braces, the head of Red river, and Arkansas, to the Missouri, River Grand, about Saint a 13*


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150 Fè, and over the mountains, to the waters of the western ocean. They say, they have seen big peroques, with masts, which they describe by drawing a ship and the sails and rigging. Their language sounds different from that of any other nation, and none can either speak or understand it; but they have a language by signs, whchwhich [sic] can be understood by all Indians; and which they use much in conversing among themselves. They are generally at war with the Spaniards, and often commit depredations on the inhabitants of Saint a Fé, and Saint Antoine; but have always been friendly to the French or Americans, who have been among them. They have a number of Spanish men and women among them; who are slaves, and who were made prisoners when they were young.

The following story is related by an elderly gentleman, living at Natchitoches, who formerly carried on a trade with this nation. A number of years ago, a party of these Indians passed over the River Grand, to Chewawa, the residence of the governor-general of what is called the five internal provinces; lay in ambush for an opportunity, and made a prisoner of the governor's daughter, a young lady, as she was going in her coach to mass, and brought her off. The governor sent a message to this gentleman, with a thousand dollars, for the purpose of recovering his daughter: he immediately dispatched a confidential trader, then in his employ, with the


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151 amount of the thousand dollars in merchandise, who repaired to the nation, and after he had found her, purchased her ransom; but to his great surprise, she refused to return with him to her father, and sent by him the following message: that the Indians had disfigured her face, by tattooing it according to their fancy and ideas of beauty, and a young man of them had taken her for his wife, by whom she believed herself pregnant; that she had become reconciled to her mode of life, and was well treated by her husband; and that she should be more unhappy by returning to her father, under these circumstances, than by remaining where she was. Which message was conveyed to her father, who rewarded the trader by a present of three hundred dollars more for his trouble and fidelity; and that, at the time of relating this account, his daughter was living with her Indian husband, in the nation, by whom she had had three children.

The Natchitoches nation formerly lived, where the town of Natchitoches is now situated, which took its name from them. About one hundred years ago, when the French began their settlement in this town, this nation had six hundred men. They became attached to French people, and have ever been their steady and faithful friends. After the massacre of the French inhabitants of Natchez, by the Natchez Indians, in 1728, those Indians fled from the French, after the French were reinforced, and came up Red


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152 river, and camped about six miles below the town of Natchitoches, near the river, by the side of a small lake of clear water, and erected a mound of earth, of considerable size, where it now remains. Monsieur Saint Dennie, a French Canadian, was then commandant at Natchitoches; the Indians called him the Big Foot, were fond of him, for he was a brave man. Saint Dennie, with a few French soldiers, and what militia he could muster, joined by the Natchitoches Indians, attacked the Natchez Indians in their camp, early in the morning; they defended themselves desperately for six hours, but were at length totally defeated, and what were not killed in battle, were drove into the lake, were the last of them perished, and the Natchez, as a nation, became extinct. This lake is now called Natchez lake. Since that time the Natchitoches nation have decreased, until their remains only twelve men, and nineteen women, who live in a village about twenty-five miles above the town, near a lake called by the French Lac de Muire. The small pox has been their great destroyer. Their original language is the same as the Yattassee, but speak Caddo and French. The French inhabitants highly respect this nation, and a number of decent families have a mixture of their blood in them. They still preserve their Indian dress, and habits; raise corn and the other vegetables common in their neighbourhood.


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153 There are the remains of several more nations,who are become nearly extinct, inhabiting in different parts of this country, who are mostly emigrants from the eastern side of the Mississippi. The Boluxas, from Pensacola, live on Red river, at the mouth of Rigula de Bandieu, who are reduced to about thirty men. They are an honest, harmless, and friendly people. The Appalaches from West Florida, live above bayau Rapide, and consist of only fourteen men. The Allibamis came from West Florida, consist of seventy men, of whom thirty have settled near the Caddoques, and forty in Appelousa district. Conchattas are from West Florida, call their number one hundred and sixty men, and are settled on the River Sabine. Several families live in detached settlements, which they say will make their number two hundred men. Pacanas are also emigrants from West Florida, are a small tribe of about thirty men, and live on the Quelqueshoe river. Attakapas, a name which is said to mean maneater, but no more applicable to this tribe, than that of any other Indians. Their number, including some Tunicas and Humas Indians, who have intermarried and live with them, is about eighty men. They are peaceable and friendly to every body, and are settled between Attakapa church and the Quelqueshoe river. The Appelousa, which means black head or black skull, have about forty men, are natives of the district called by their name, and live west of Appelousa church.


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154 Tunicas do not exceed twenty-five men, and live at Avoyall. Pascagolas from West Florida, have only twenty-five men, and live in a small village on Red river. Tenisaws are emigrants from Tenesau river, which falls into the bay of Mobile, are reduced to twenty-five men, and live on bayau Beauf. Chactoos live on the same bayau; are aborigines of the country where they live, and are diminished to about thirty men. Washas are reduced to two men and three women, and live in French families. The Chactaws have two villages, one consisting of thirty, and the other of fifty men, in the district of Appelousa, besides rambling hunting parties, in different parts of the country. They are at war with the Caddoques, and not liked by either red or white people. The Arkansas, who claim three hundred miles on that river, but live in three villages, are supposed not to exceed three hundred men. They speak the Osage language, but are at war with that nation. They raise corn to sell, and are called an honest and friendly people.

These Indian nations reside, or rove in their hunting and trading excursions, within what has been conjectured to be the limits of Louisiana. In ascertaining their numbers, it was unavoidably necessary, in many instances, to depend on Indian information; but it is presumed that the number of warriors, which is generally given in even numbers, is not far from being correct; and calculating on the best data that could be


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155, the souls are probably estimated rather below, than above their real number.

In constructing the following table, for the purpose of giving a collected view of the number of each nation, and an aggregate of the whole of those nations which are so numerous, and so divided and subdivided into bands and parties, that their numbers could not be known by any information the Indians were able to give, are presumed to be, at least, equal to the Great and Little Osage nation, and their numbers are assumed; and those nations of whom only the number of men are ascertained, the number of souls are calculated in about the same proportion to the number of warriors, with those of the other nations.


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156 {| class="wikitable" width=400px ! Indian Nations. ! Warriors. ! Souls.
 * Great and Little Osage,
 * align="right" width=20% | 2000
 * align="right" width=20% | 8000
 * Kanzas,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1200
 * Missouris,
 * align="right" | 80
 * align="right" | 300
 * Ottoes,
 * align="right" | 120
 * align="right" | 500
 * Panis Proper,
 * align="right" | 400
 * align="right" | 1600
 * Panis Republican, or Big Paunch,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1400
 * Panis Loups, or Wolf Indians,
 * align="right" | 280
 * align="right" | 1000
 * Maha,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 600
 * Pancars,
 * align="right" | 50
 * align="right" | 200
 * Ricaras,
 * align="right" | 500
 * align="right" | 2000
 * Mandans,
 * align="right" | 350
 * align="right" | 1250
 * Ahwahhawa,
 * align="right" | 50
 * align="right" | 200
 * Minetares, or Grossventres,
 * align="right" | 600
 * align="right" | 2500
 * Ayauwais,
 * align="right" | 200
 * align="right" | 800
 * Saukees,
 * align="right" | 500
 * align="right" | 2000
 * Renars, or Fox Indians,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1200
 * Sioux, (ten bands)
 * align="right" | 2590
 * align="right" | 7610
 * Chien, or Dog Indians,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1200
 * Wetepahatoes and Kiawas,
 * align="right" | 200
 * align="right" | 700
 * Kenenavish,
 * align="right" | 400
 * align="right" | 1500
 * Staetan, or Kites,
 * align="right" | 100
 * align="right" | 400
 * Kata,
 * align="right" | 75
 * align="right" | 300
 * Nemousin, or Allebome,
 * align="right" | 50
 * align="right" | 200
 * Dotame,
 * align="right" | 30
 * align="right" | 120
 * Castahana,
 * align="right" | 1300
 * align="right" | 5000
 * Keehatsa, or Crow Indians,
 * align="right" | 900
 * align="right" | 3500
 * Allakaweah, or Paunch Indians,
 * align="right" | 800
 * align="right" | 2300
 * Assinniboin consisting of three bands,
 * align="right" | 900
 * align="right" | 3100
 * Chippeways, three bands,
 * align="right" | 700
 * align="right" | 2650
 * Algonquins, two bands,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 900
 * Christenoes, or Cree Indians,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1000
 * Alansar, or Fall Indians,
 * align="right" | 660
 * align="right" | 2500
 * Cattananaws, (supposed to be)
 * align="right" | 600
 * align="right" | 2000
 * Tutsee, or Flat Head,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 900
 * Alitans, or Snake Indians, (supposed,)
 * align="right" | 2000
 * align="right" | 8000
 * Caddoques,
 * align="right" | 100
 * align="right" | 400
 * Yattasees,
 * align="right" | 8
 * align="right" | 57
 * Nandakoes,
 * align="right" | 40
 * align="right" | 160
 * Adaize,
 * align="right" | 20
 * align="right" | 85
 * Aliche,
 * align="right" | 5
 * align="right" | 25
 * Keyes,
 * align="right" | 60
 * align="right" | 240
 * Inies,
 * align="right" | 80
 * align="right" | 320
 * }
 * align="right" | 2500
 * Cattananaws, (supposed to be)
 * align="right" | 600
 * align="right" | 2000
 * Tutsee, or Flat Head,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 900
 * Alitans, or Snake Indians, (supposed,)
 * align="right" | 2000
 * align="right" | 8000
 * Caddoques,
 * align="right" | 100
 * align="right" | 400
 * Yattasees,
 * align="right" | 8
 * align="right" | 57
 * Nandakoes,
 * align="right" | 40
 * align="right" | 160
 * Adaize,
 * align="right" | 20
 * align="right" | 85
 * Aliche,
 * align="right" | 5
 * align="right" | 25
 * Keyes,
 * align="right" | 60
 * align="right" | 240
 * Inies,
 * align="right" | 80
 * align="right" | 320
 * }
 * align="right" | 25
 * Keyes,
 * align="right" | 60
 * align="right" | 240
 * Inies,
 * align="right" | 80
 * align="right" | 320
 * }
 * align="right" | 320
 * }


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157 {| class="wikitable" width=400px ! Indian Nations. ! Warriors. ! Souls. 14
 * Nabedaches,
 * align="right" width=20% | 80
 * align="right" width=20% | 320
 * Accokesaws,
 * align="right" | 100
 * align="right" | 400
 * Mayes,
 * align="right" | 80
 * align="right" | 320
 * Carankouas,
 * align="right" | 200
 * align="right" | 800
 * Cances, (numerous supposed to be,)
 * align="right" | 2000
 * align="right" | 8000
 * Tankaways, or Tanks,
 * align="right" | 200
 * align="right" | 300
 * Tawakenoes, or Three Canes,
 * align="right" | 200
 * align="right" | 800
 * Hietans, (numerous supposed to be,)
 * align="right" | 2000
 * align="right" | 8000
 * Natchitoches,
 * align="right" | 12
 * align="right" | 65
 * Boluscas,
 * align="right" | 30
 * align="right" | 120
 * Appalaches,
 * align="right" | 14
 * align="right" | 56
 * Allibamis,
 * align="right" | 70
 * align="right" | 280
 * Conchattas,
 * align="right" | 200
 * align="right" | 800
 * Pacanas,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1200
 * Attakapas,
 * align="right" | 80
 * align="right" | 300
 * Appelousa,
 * align="right" | 40
 * align="right" | 160
 * Tunicas,
 * align="right" | 25
 * align="right" | 100
 * Pascagolas,
 * align="right" | 25
 * align="right" | 100
 * Tenisaws,
 * align="right" | 25
 * align="right" | 100
 * Chactoos,
 * align="right" | 30
 * align="right" | 120
 * Washas, men 2, women 3,
 * align="right" | 2
 * align="right" | 5
 * Chactaws,
 * align="right" | 80
 * align="right" | 320
 * Arkansas,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1200
 * align="right" | 25,741
 * align="right" | 94,403
 * }
 * Tenisaws,
 * align="right" | 25
 * align="right" | 100
 * Chactoos,
 * align="right" | 30
 * align="right" | 120
 * Washas, men 2, women 3,
 * align="right" | 2
 * align="right" | 5
 * Chactaws,
 * align="right" | 80
 * align="right" | 320
 * Arkansas,
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1200
 * align="right" | 25,741
 * align="right" | 94,403
 * }
 * align="right" | 300
 * align="right" | 1200
 * align="right" | 25,741
 * align="right" | 94,403
 * }
 * align="right" | 94,403
 * }


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 THE

JOURNAL

OF

Mr. CHARLES LE RAYE.

the year 1801, I left Canada with an adventure of goods, to trade on the Missouri. I arrived at the French settlement on the Illinois, early in September, and concluded to ascend the Osage river, and to trade with the Osage nation. Here I procured two additional hands, which completed my complement of six men besides my self. As soon as my perioque was finised, we embarked. On the 21st of September, I entered the mouth of the Missouri, and as the waters were low, we ascended with ease.

On the 7th of October, entered the Osage river, and ascended seven miles, where we encamped to hunt, and procure meat. Nothing material occured until the 23d, when we had ascended within sixty miles of the Osage village, and had encamped for the night, at a small stream, on the east side of the river. After supper I ordered the men, who were in a tent on the shore,


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Rh she thought Peter sometimes came to the nursery in the night and sat on the foot of her bed and played on his pipes to her. Unfortunately she never woke, so she did n't know how she knew, she just knew.

"What nonsense you talk, precious! No one can get into the house without knocking."

"I think he comes in by the window," she said.

"My love, it is three floors up."

"Were n't the leaves at the foot of the window, mother?"

It was quite true; the leaves had been found very near the window.

Mrs. Darling did not know what to think, for it all seemed so natural to Wendy that you could not dismiss it by saying she had been dreaming.

"My child," the mother cried, "why did you not tell me of this before?"

"I forgot," said Wendy lightly. She was in a hurry to get her breakfast.

Oh, surely she must have been dreaming.

But, on the other hand, there were the leaves. Mrs. Darling examined them carefully; they were skeleton leaves, but she was sure they did not come from any tree that grew in England. She crawled about the floor, peering at it with a candle for marks of a strange foot. She rattled the poker up the chimney and tapped the walls. She let down a tape from the window to the pavement, Rh

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Rh Shelburne's speech. But politics did not wholly absorb him. He fell in love with Miss Sarah Manning, but her father withheld his consent to the marriage on the ground that Vaughan had no profession. Thereupon Vaughan went and studied medicine at Edinburgh, married on his return in 1781, and became partner with Manning & Son, merchants, in Billiter Square. He acted as confidential messenger and unpaid mediator in negotiations with America, and in 1782 was four times sent to Paris by Shelburne, then Prime Minister, to confer with Franklin. His brother-in-law Manning docked him of a year's profits of the business, on the plea of his having wasted seven months in diplomatic missions. For thirty years the friend and correspondent of Franklin, Vaughan edited a London edition of his works (1779), and assisted long afterwards from America in the new edition of 1806. He also wrote a treatise on international trade, which was translated into French in 1789. In 1790 he was in Paris, and in a letter to Shelburne (now Marquis of Lansdowne) described France as in a fever of enthusiasm. He went on to Nantes, where on the 24th November he made a speech at a meeting where Nantes delegates described the honours which had been rendered them in London. It was probably during this absence that Colonel Barré, owing to a quarrel with Lansdowne, resigned his seat for


text: A Topographical Description of the State of Ohio, Indiana Territory, and Louisiana/The Journal of Mr. Charles Le Raye


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159 to keep a watch, as usual, and retired to the perioque to sleep. Just before day, I was awaked by the rushing of a number of Indians through the brush, and before I could disengage my self and my gun from the buffaloe robe, in which I was enwrapped, an Indian, followed by five or six more, rushed into the boat, and seizing my gun, dragged me on shore. As soon as they had bound me, I was hurried back into the boat, and seven Indians jumping in, they bushed the boat from the shore, and hurried down the river, as fast as they could paddle. I saw a large number on the bank around the tent. It was so dark I could not distinctly see my men, but heard the voice of one of them speaking to the Indians, in the Osage tongue. From this, I concluded they were Osage Indians.

The Indians in the boat proceeded with me down the river about twenty miles, and came to their encampment, kept by four lads, fourteen or fifteen years old. Here they unloaded the boat. I was anxious to know the fate of my men, and about noon was much relieved by seeing them brought in by the rest of the party. The number of Indians now, were forty-six men, and four lads. They immediately collected their horses, fourteen in number, and the goods were loaded on them. We were all bound with buffaloe cords over our arms, and, travelling up the branch, until about midnight, we encamped. When we lay down to sleep, we were secured between two Indians, one


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160 of which had the end of the cord with which we were bound, around his body. In the morning, after eating some dried meat, for which purpose our arms were loosened, we pursued a course, north or west, and leaving the creek, we crossed several ridges covered with grass, but entirely destitute of timber. About noon we crossed a small stream, a branch of the stream we had ascended, and encamped on it, at night. On the 25th of October, we travelled through a country somewhat broken, and destitute of timber, but game was very plenty, and two deer were shot. At night we encamped by an excellent spring. There being no wood, we kindled a fire with dry weeds, and broiled meet for our suppers.

On the 26th we set forward early, and continuing a west course, came to a stream of water which one of my men, who had been on the Missouri, said, was a branch of Mine river. The country became more level, with some small timber near the water. I now discovered that the Indians were not Osage, but a party of Sioux, of the Bois Bucil band. We encamped on the branch, and on rich land. On the 27th, we continued down the stream until we came to a small path, where the land was covered with high grass and weeds. We encamped at the mouth of the stream. On the 28th, we crossed the stream, and proceeded a west course to Mine river, and crossing the river, we encamped on the west side, on rich land, covered with large timber. Here


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161 we tarried part of the day to hunt, having no other provision than some corn, taken from the perioque. During the day the cords were taken from our arms. The guns and ammunition taken from the perioque were sufficient to furnish the Indians, so that most of them were well armed, and only a few of them made use of their bows.

On the 29th, we left Mine river, and continued a west course until we came to a large beaten path, which was the Kanzas war path to the Missouri. We continued in the path a few miles, and left it to the right. We encamped on a small run, with scarcely water sufficient to quench our thirst. Proceeding early on the 30th, we travelled through a level, rich country destitute of timber. At this time my feet, and the feet of some of my men, had become so sore as scarcely to be able to walk. Coming to a branch of the Kanzas river, we encamped. As soon as the camp was made, a keg of rum taken from the perioque was broached, and soon all the Indians, except the chief, four warriors and the four lads, were drunk. After a very noisy night, towards morning they fell a sleep. They had taken great care to secure us before they began to drink. In the hurry last evening to taste the rum, they had neglected to give us any thing to eat. This morning, (31st), our appetites were of course good, as we had not tasted any thing but water and a little spirit since the preceding morning. We therefore eat an hearty breakfast, and assisted in loading the 14*


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162 horses. The Indians after they awoke were again for tasting the spirits, but this being opposed by the chief, and the horses being loaded, we proceeded. Continuing our course down a branch of the Kanzas, started a drove of buffaloe, consisting of two or three hundred. The Indians killed six, and then encamped on the branch. I expected the rum would have been broached, but their debauch the night before seemed to have satisfied them. Here they informed us, that in two days we should arrive at the camp where their women were.

November 1st, we continued down the branch. Snow fell some depth last night. Proceeded early on the 2d, and found the country somewhat hilly, but destitute of timber, except near the water. On the 3d, it rained, and we continued in the camp. Three men were sent forward to notify the band of our approach. Towards noon the weather cleared up, and we proceeded about six miles, and met the whole band, consisting of about two hundred men, women and children. As soon as the chief discovered the band, he set up the yell, and was answered by the band, which formed two lines, opening to the right and left, and we were led between them. Some of the children shewed a {SIC|dispositon|disposition}} to insult us, but were prevented by the men. The whole proceeded to the encampments, where the tents were ail standing in two rows, facing each other. Under different circumstances I should have been


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163 pleased with the appearance. But at this time my mind was occupied with anxiety about my fate, and that of my companions, expecting to be tomehawked or burned. On our arrival we were taken to the centre of the encampment, where the two chief tents were situated, and my self and companions put into the tents belonging to the chief who had taken us. The goods were unloaded and distributed among the Indians. While this was doing, a Frenchman came into the tent and spoke to me, which much revived my spirits. As soon as he had learned that we were all Frenchmen, he left us; but soon returned with the consoling news that we should be well treated. The chief soon after came in, ordered us unbound, and that some meat should be given us to eat. His squaws were now bringing in his share of the goods. The chief seated himself, and then the other chief and the warriors came in, and after lighting their pipes, entered into a long conversation, in the Sioux tongue, with the FenchmanFrenchman [sic]. As soon as the conversation ended, my men were distributed among the warriors, and I was retained by the chief who took me. The name of the Frenchman, who resided with this people, was Pardo. He informed me no further injury was intended me, or my men. He also informed me that this was a party that went in pursuit of some Osage Indians, who, a short time before, had killed some of their band, and that their meeting with me was accidental; but suspecting me to be


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164 taking goods and arms to the Osage Indians, their enemies, they took me. In the evening the rum was again broached. Two kegs of high proof spirits had been taken from the perioque, which contained about twelve gallons each. I was directed not to leave the tent.

Early in the morning of the 4th, I went out and found all still. At the farther part of the encampment, where the liquor was drank, I saw the horrid effects of their last night's debauch. The wood, weeds, and almost every thing, was covered with blood. While I was viewing the scene, an Indian came to me, and bid me begone. I therefore immediately returned to the tent. Soon after Mr. Pardo came in and told me the Indians had been very drunk, and had fought with their knives. Three of them were badly wounded, and one very dangerously. I was permitted to take several small articles from the chief's share of the goods, among which were my papers, a razor and a lappo coat. These I procured through the influence of Mr. Pardo. He informed me that in a few days the band would go to the Ricarus village, where more of the band were. This camp in which we now were, was situated on a lage [sic] fork of the Kanzas, on the edge of a prairie. The tents were made of buffaloe skins dressed, and painted with a variety of rude figures, which at a distance made a handsome appearance. Each tent was set up in form of a cone, by means of a pole about twelve feet long, with the skins tied


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Rh and it was a sheer drop of thirty feet, without so much as a spout to climb up by.

Certainly Wendy had been dreaming.

But Wendy had not been dreaming, as the very next night showed, the night on which the extraordinary adventures of these children may be said to have begun.

On the night we speak of all the children were once more in bed. It happened to be Nana's evening off, and Mrs. Darling had bathed them and sung to them till one by one they had let go her hand and slid away into the land of sleep.

All were looking so safe and cosy that she smiled at her fears now and sat down tranquilly by the fire to sew.

It was something for Michael, who on his birthday was getting into shirts. The fire was warm, however, and the nursery dimly lit by three night-lights, and presently the sewing lay on Mrs. Darling's lap. Then her head nodded, oh, so gracefully. She was asleep. Look at the four of them, Wendy and Michael over there, John here, and Mrs. Darling by the fire. There should have been a fourth night-light.

While she slept she had a dream. She dreamt that the Neverland had come too near and that a strange boy had broken through from it. He did not alarm her, for she thought she had seen him before in the faces of many women who have no Rh

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165 round it, at the top, and spread out at the bottom. The doors of the tents were made facing each other, before which they made a fire, and some times one in the tent. It was several days before the wounded Indians could be moved, and during our stay the Indians killed a deer, which is called the long tailed deer. It was larger than the red deer, of a darker colour, and with a white belly. Its horns are short, small and somewhat flat; its tail nearly eighteen inches long. They are said to be plenty in these plains.

The wounded Indians having so far recovered as to be able to be transported, on the 12th, we prepared for our departure, and removed a few miles. The Indians now treated me with a much greater degree of hospitality, than, from their former conduct, I had any reason to expect. On the 13th, we continued our course to the Kanzas river. This is a handsome stream, about twice as wide as the Osage, and flows through a rich country, but mostly destitute of timber, except on the water courses. We crossed it about forty miles from the mouth. The Kanzas nation of Indians reside near its head waters. On the 14th, continued a northwest course in a well beaten path, and the country somewhat hilly. The 15th, crossed a small stream of water running to the northwest, the land hilly, without timber. From this time to the 20th, very little difference in the appearance of the country. On the 20th, came to a branch of the river La


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166 Plate. The land now became rich and level, with wood near the water. Here the Indians separated, and about one hundred and fifty directed their course towards the Missouri, with whom all my men were taken. Mr. Pardo, myself, the chief who took me, and the rest of the Indians, continued our course towards the Ricaras village.

On the 24th, came to the River La Plate. This is a rapid stream, not less than three forths of a mile in width. It comes from a great distance from towards the south. The Panis, Ottoes, Missouri and Wolf Indians, live on the waters of this river, and are all at war with the Sioux. On the 25th, we crossed the river with great difficulty and danger, owing to the running of the ice.

On the 26th, some of the squaws made themselves carriages, to transport their baggage, by lashing three or four bars to the ends of two slim poles, and yoking a dog to the poles. A dog, in this manner, will draw about seventy pounds. The snow was now about eight inches deep. We continued our course on the 27th, northwesterly. Here the country became more broken, ascending into ridges. There were a considerable number of elk, buffaloe, cabree or antelope, and deer, and very little timber to be seen on these ridges.

Nothing material occurred until the 2d day of December, when we came to the Missouri,


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167 and crossed it near the mouth of the Little Pioux. We continued our course on the north side of the Missouri, often near it, until we arrived at the lodges, on the Sioux river, which was on the 8th, where we prepared to spend the remainder of the winter. It was found that several of the Indians had got frozen. They were very slightly clothed, having nothing more than a buffaloe robe, or a deer, or cabree skin, thrown over their shoulders, with only leggins, their moccasons being worn out. The weather was now very severe, and the lodges illy calculated to shelter us from it. We covered and patched them up, as well as we could, with dry grass and willow branches. In the centre an opening was made, ten feet in length, and eighteen inches in width, for the purposes of letting out the smoke, and letingletting [sic] in the light. The doors were made close with buffaloe skins. During the night, the horses are sheltered under the same cover with the people, being only separated by a pole. They are fed in the night on willow and button wood branches, and in the day time are turned out to graze on whatever they can find to eat.

These Indians are the dirtiest creatures on earth. They bring their water for themselves and their horses, in the paunches of the deer and cabree, which are never cleansed more than what is done by constant use. Their meat is cooked in the most filthy manner. When they boil it, they continue the boiling until it can be eaten


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168 with a spoon, throwing in a handful of corn, if they have it, with a small quantity of bear's oil; but make use of no seasoning of any kind. When it is ready to eat, the whole company, with ten or fifteen dogs, gather round it, and each one strives to get his share. They have no set times for their meals, but it seems to depend on the calls of hunger, and a disposition to prepare the food.

An animal is found in these plains, called Iele [sic] prairie chein, or prairie dog. It is smaller than the grey fox, and formed much like the dog. Its ears are pointed and stand erect, and the whole head very much resembles the dog. Its tail is long, slim, and of a dun colour. It digs holes and burrows in a light, loamy soil, and in the same holes, a small speckled snake takes shelter, which the Indians call the dog's guard. The Indians have many superstitious notions respecting these dogs. The Ay-oo-wars, or Nespeirce nation have a tradition that the human race sprang from this dog and the beaver. All other nations hold them in great veneration. A kind of deer were frequently killed here, called mule deer. It is smaller and of a darker colour than the red deer, having large, branched horns. The ears are very large; the tail about five inches long, with short dark hair, and at the end, a tuft composed of long, black hair. A species of the badger, called prarow, inhabits these plains. Its head much resembles the dog; legs short and


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169 very thick in proportion to its body, armed with long, sharp claws, well adapted to digging. The size of the body somewhat exceeds the ground hog; hair of a dark brown colour, and tail, bushy, resembling that of the ground hog. It burrows and lodges in the ground.

In the latter part of winter we were much distressed for food. Hunting became bad, and game scarce. We had often nothing more than one poor dog boiled, to feed twenty for a day, and sometimes for a much longer space of time. The Indians are fond of dog's flesh, and at their feasts use no other kind of meat. During the winter, a few fish were taken in the river. These were principally the cat fish.

To my great satisfaction, on the 20th of March, 1802, we left this camp of filth and misery, where we had remained from the 8th of December, and proceeded towards the Ricaras, or Rus, as the traders call them. Some of the Indians had prepared themselves sleighs to ride in, which were made in the following manner. A slender frame was made of small sticks, woven together, about three feet in length, and the sides about eight inches high. Over this frame, deer or cabree skins were drawn tight, and came over the upper part, forward, about eighteen inches. It was then placed on two runners, made of bent poles, to the end of which was fastened two slim poles for shafts. The whole was secured together by buffaloe cords. Two dogs were then yoked 15


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170 to the shafts, one before the other, and the rider places himself in the sleigh, with his feet under the covered part. He then guides the foremost dog by a line fastened round his neck, and in this manner the dogs will draw him with great ease. We arrived on the banks of the Missouri, near the salt springs, on the 23d, and being unable to cross the river on account of the ice, which began to break up, we continued up the river to where the ice remained firm, and well secured by a sand bar in the middle of the river. Here we crossed, and proceeded up to White river, about twenty miles, where we arrived on the 27th, and encamped. On the 29th, we removed up the White river, sixteen miles, to hunt. The snow now began to disappear, and the plains were covered with game. Here no timber was to be seen except on the water courses, where a few willows, elm, and button wood grew, but the appearance of the soil was rich. A small party of Rus, joined us at this camp, and on the 6th of April, we crossed White river, which is about one hundred and fifty yards wide, and continued our journey towards the Rus village. On the 9th, we encamped on Tyler's creek; and on the 12th, we arrived opposite Tuton river. Here we left the Missouri, and proceeded a west course to the River Chein, or Dog river. On this route we travelled through a broken country, destitute of wood, and badly watered. We arrived at the Chein river on the 14th,and immediately crossed it


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171 in buffaloe canoes. The river is nearly half a mile wide, and as the Indians informed me, flows through a plain, level country, for several hundreds of miles, mostly destitute of timber. On the head waters risidereside [sic] several tribes of Indians, with which the Sioux are at war. The most powerful of these tribes are the Chein, or Dog Indians. There are also the Gens-di-rach, or Kananawesh, the Kites and Dotame, besides bands of the Mahas, Pancars, and Kataka. We met with a camp of the Rus Indians, who were hunting, and continued here until the 18th, when they joined us, and we proceeded to the villages about sixty miles, travelling through a country destitute of timber, and interspersed with large hills. On the 22d, arrived at the lower village and joined several camps of Sioux and Dog Indians. The Ricaras or Rus, have three villages, situated on the south bank of the Missouri, in the great bend of the river. The lower village is on a large bottom, covered with cotton wood, and contains about fifty huts. These huts were built in a different manner, and were more comfortable habitations, than any Indian huts I had before seen. To build their huts, %hey cut four forked posts, which are set up fifteen feet high. Two of these posts stand eighteen inches apart, and two stand at the distance of ten feet from the other two posts, and ten feet from each other, on which two ridge poles are placed. Around these posts they erect sixteen forked posts more,


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172 six feet high, which are so placed as to form a circular figure, eighteen feet in diameter. On the front side two more posts, six feet long, are set up, ten feet from the building, and four feet apart. Short poles are then laid round on these sixteen forks, and on the forks of the two posts which project in front, to connect them with the building. Stakes are then placed in a reclining position, so as to lean against the poles which are placed on the six feet posts, and stand eight or nine inches apart. At the upper end of these stakes, poles are fastened, so that the other end rests upon the ridge poles. When the frame is thus completed, the whole is covered with willow and cotton wood branches, except an opening between the ridge poles, for the smoke to pass, and the space in the front of the projection, which is left for a door way. Over the branches is laid a covering of long grass, and over the grass, a coat of clay mortar.

These huts are placed with great regularity, in two straight rows. The doors in each row front those in the opposite row, so that the huts stand facing each other, with a space of twelve feet between the doors. The town is picketed with pickets, twelve feet high, and set very close, to prevent firing between them. There is one gate way, which is shut at night.

These people are much more cleanly in their persons, dress, and food, than the Sioux. They are also of a lighter complexion, which is of a


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173 bright copper colour, with aquiline noses and black, lively eyes. The women have high cheek bones, oval faces, and regular features. Both men and women are of a social, sprightly make. The men are tall and well formed, and the women, though smaller, are equally well shaped, and rather handsome, than otherwise. Their dress consists of a shift made of dressed deer skins, and reaches from the chin, below the knee, to the middle of the leg, with short sleeves. It is secured round the waist by a belt of wampum. They wear moccasons and leggins, and in the winter a buffaloe robe, thrown over their shoulders. The men wear a wide strip of leather, about three feet long, which they draw between fheir legs, and fasten it around the middle by a belt. They have long leggins and moccasons, and a buffaloe robe over their shoulders.

These Indians raise corn, beans, melons, pumpkins and tobacco. Their tobacco differs from that which is raised by white people. It has a smaller stalk, that grows about eighteen inches high, with long, narrow leaves, and is only used for smoking. The Indians never chew nor snuff tobacco. They carry on, at these villages, a considerable commerce with these productions; having much more than they want for their own consumption. It is a barter trade with neighbouring nations, who never cultivate the ground, for such articles of European goods, as they have procured at the British establishments, 15*


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Rh children. Perhaps he is to be found in the faces of some mothers also. But in her dream he had rent the film that obscures the Neverland, and she saw Wendy and John and Michael peeping through the gap.

The dream by itself would have been a trifle; but while she was dreaming the window of the nursery blew open, and a boy did drop on the floor. He was accompanied by a strange light, no bigger than your fist, which darted about the room like a living thing, and I think it must have been this light that wakened Mrs. Darling.

She started up with a cry, and saw the boy, and somehow she knew at once that he was Peter Pan. If you or I or Wendy had been there we should have seen that he was very like Mrs. Darling's kiss. He was a lovely boy, clad in skeleton leaves and the juices that ooze out of trees, but the most entrancing thing about him was that he had all his first teeth. When he saw she was a grown-up, he gnashed the little pearls at her. Rh

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174 at the falls of Saint Anthony, or from traders: and also for horses, mules, dried meat, and other articles. Their principal customers are the Sioux, the Chein Indians, Watapahatoes, Gens-dis-vatch, Kite, and Dotame, the most of whom, except the Sioux, reside on the river Chein. This nation was once very numerous, and consisted of ten tribes of the Panis, who reside on the river La Plate, and whose tongue they speak in somewhat of different accent. They have now not much over five hundred warriors; having been reduced from five thousand warriors, to their present number, in less than thirty years, by the small pox and attacks of their enemies; particularly by the Sioux, who have got them so far under subjection, that they dare not offend them, and are frequently robbed, plundered, and even murdered, without daring to resent it. This information was given me by an old chief of the lower villages.

Above the Sioux river, and between that and the River Sacque, is a small hill, destitute of timber, which the natives say is inhabited by spirits, in shape of human beings, of a very diminutive size, not being, according to their description, more than six or eight inches high. Respecting these bodily spirits they have a number of ridiculous fancies. An old chief told me, with great gravity, that the occasion of their coming and living on this hill, was, because the Indians, a great many winters ago, were so wicked


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175 and foolish, as to strive to kill all the animals made for their use. The Great Spirit saw them from above, and was so angry with them that he sent these little beings, which the Indians call Wakons, to drive all the animals out of the country, which they did, and many of the Indians starved for want of food. But after much entreaty and many sacrifices, the anger of the Great Spirit was appeased, and he permitted the animals to return; but directed the Wakons to reside on this hill, to watch the conduct of the Indians, and should they again be so wicked, they are to drive all the animals off, never to return. This impression has had an excellent effect on the natives, as it prevents causeless waste of what is so necessary for their subsistence. They pretend often to see these little beings on, and about the hill, as they are passing, but no consideration would induce an Indian to set his foot on this holy ground.

The lower village, on the 20th of May, held their great feast. Two drays previous notice was given by their principal chiefs. There being a number of camps of different tribes, they were all invited to join, and in the morning of the festival, were dressed out in their best attire, and made no indifferent appearance. Their faces were daubed with a variety of paints. Their ears, noses and hair, were full of silver rings, and of silver and glass trinkets; with silver breast plates; and a multitude of beads, hanging round their necks. Their hair was also filled with the


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176 feathers of the eagle, and other large birds. Bandayes full of brooches were tied round their foreheads. Their clothes neatly worked with porcupine quills and beads, and large wampum belts around the middle. Their moccasons and leggins strung with bits of brass and beads, worked full of porcupine quills and horse hair dyed red. In this finical, gaudy dress, they all assembled in a place prepared for the purpose, near the village, in the fore part of the day. The men only partake of the feast, but the women are distant spectators; for they are never suffered to eat with the men, neither at feasts, nor in their own families, when strangers are present. This, however, does not prevent them from decorating themselves for the occasion. After all had assembled, the head chief of the village addressed the company in an impressive speech, in which he informed them, that it had been a practice, time immemorial, to celebrate the return of the spring, by a feast to the Great Spirit. He recommended to them peaceable and friendly behaviour, and told them, that as the Great Spirit had given them an unclouded sky, he was well pleased with their intention, and that each one should be careful not to offend him by improper conduct. After the address, the company were seated, and the head chief opened his medicine bag, from which he drew the sacred stem or pipe. This he placed on the forked sticks set in the ground before him for the purpose. Fire was then brought, and he


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177 lighted the pipe, and blowed the smoke to the east, south, west, and north; after which he handed the pipe to the chief next to him, on the right, who smoked two or three whiffs and passed it to the next, and so on, until it had gone round the company.

The provisions were now brought forward, composed entirely of dog's flesh, and placed before the great chief, and each one sent his dish to him, in turn; for before they came, every one took care to provide a dish for himself. Some of the youth attended as waiters to the company. The greatest order and regularity was observed during the feast. Each one considered himself obliged to eat all that was sent him; but at such feasts it is seldom more than they can devour in a few minutes. As soon as the feast was ended, fire was brought, and the whole commenced smoking, which was continued for about an hour. The smoking then ceased and the dance commenced. Their music consisted of beating on buffaloe skins, shaking dried prarow and marten skins, tied up, in a form to contain small stones, and beating on a kind of drum, made by stretching a skin, dressed like parchment, over the end of a hollow log about four feet long, which is joined with the singing of the company. Their songs are a rehearsal of the exploits of themselves and their ancestors, and is accompanied with a variety of antic gestures. In all their movements they keep exact time; dance in a circle around a


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178 fire, never taking hold of hands, nor touching one another, unless by accident. The dance continued until near morning. When the dance was closed, all retired to their respective quarters, perfectly quiet and peaceable. Although the company consisted of not less than a thousand people, of different nations, and some of whom were mortal enemies to others, there was not the least confusion heard during the day or night.

The Indians are extravagantly fond of gambling, and spend most of their leisure hours in it. The game they appear most attached to is played with eight bones, of the size of a man's finger, of an oval form, three fourths of an inch long, with four square sides, two of which are coloured black and red. They are placed on wooden trenchers, or oval platters. From this dish the bones are tossed into the air, and then caught in the dish. They win or lose according to the number of a certain colour, previously agreed upon, being uppermost, until the game is finished, which is always forty-five. Two bands or parties will play at this game, the loser rising and letting one of his party take his place, until the whole band has had a part in the game. They often play for all the property they possess, and after losing that, set up their wives and children, for they are considered the men's property, as much as their arms, or any thing they possess. Another game is played by means of small sticks, five inches long, of the size of a goose quill, neatly


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179 polished and marked with red and black lines. Forty of these sticks are divided between the two persons who play. One wraps up a part of his sticks in grass, the other matches a part of his to them. If they agree in number or colour of the lines, the one that matches wins five, or otherwise loses the same number. The game is always forty.

On the 18th of May, several parties of Indians arrived from the river Chein, for the purpose of trading, consisting of Dog Indians, Gens-dis-valch, Kaewas, and Kales. A trader likewise came in from the Assinniboin river. They all assembled at the village, at the mouth of the Warriuna river, and our camp moved up to the same village. The trader soon procured what furs of any value they had to dispose of, and departed. Mr. Pardo, having procured a supply of ammunition, proposed to ascend the Missouri, on a hunting expedition with a party of Grossventres, with whom he was connected by marriage. His wife was the daughter of the chief of this nation. He applied to the chief of our camp, to whom I belonged, whose name is Man-di-tongue-go, for liberty for me to accompany him. The chief consented that I should go with him, on condition that I should give him a part of the skins I procured, and lent me an old musket. There were three of


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180 the Sioux, one of whom was his relation, who agreed to go with us.

We started on the 27th of May, crossed Missouri, and arrived the same evening at the upper village. This village is situated on an Island, in the Missouri, and is fortified in the same manner as the lower village, containing about sixty huts. Our party consisted of twenty-seven men, six women, and four children; none of the Gross-Ventres having their families with them. The next morning we proceeded, and soon left the Missouri, travelling a northwest course, in a well beaten path. The land on each side of us ascended into high ridges. On the northern side of them, was considerable timber, mostly cedar, and the land poor. The path continued up the vally [sic], but often passing over low ridges. On the 29th, we struck a branch of the stream called by the traders, Ball river. We followed this branch to its mouth. Here we crossed Ball river. We found some pleasant intervals on this river, but most of the land is poor, dry ridges, with very little timber. Our company soon took a course more northwardly, until we came to the mouth of Chuss-chu river. Here we came again to the banks of the Missouri, and met a party of Mandans, hunting buffaloe. The principal game found here is the buffaloe, cabree, or antelope, black tailed deer, and elk. We now frequently passed camps of Mandans, and on the 5th of June, arrived at the lower Mandan village. This


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181, which is above the great bend of the Missouri, is situated on a pleasant interval, covered with cotton wood and cedar. Is built and fortified in the same manner as those of the Rus.

Here a sight, new to me, and exceedingly disagreeable, arrested my attention as soon as I came in view of the village. This was their manner of depositing the bodies of the dead. Immediately after my arrival I had an opportunity of witnessing the funeral ceremonies practised by these people, which was in the following manner. A dead body was brought out of a hut, and laid on the ground before it, dressed in its best apparel, and wrapped in a buffaloe robe. The relations and principal part of the people in the village, assembled around it. A fire was then made, and the sacred stem, or pipe, was brought and lighted. The deceased having been a warrior, an eulogy of considerable length was pronounced by his brother, in which he impressed on their minds, the great importance which the deceased man had been to their nation; rehearsed his war exploits, and concluded by urging all to follow his example, and to become of equal usefulness to their tribe. Then they would be sure of following and becoming companions of him, and all the other great warriors, which had died before, in the world of spirits. After this address was closed, provisions were brought out, consisting of boiled dog's flesh, of which the company just 16


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182 tasted, and then a bowl full of it was presented to the dead man. He was then taken up by four men and carried outside of the village, just into the edge of the woods, and placed on a stage which had been previously erected, about ten feet high. The bowl of food was brought and set by his head, and his arms and accoutrements laid by his side. In this manner their dead are deposited, and are never buried. The wife and relations of the deceased made the most violent and dreadful howlings, tearing their hair, and appearing to be in the deepest anguish, under the loss they had sustained.

The Mandans and Gross-Ventres are of the lightest complexion, and largest Indians on the Missouri. Their hair inclines to a chesnut colour, and in some instances has a slight curl; it is never so lank and coarse as most other Indians. Their eyes are full and lively, their cheek bones rather high, and their countenances open and agreeable. The Gross-Ventres have more of a fierce, savage look, than the Mandans who are courteous, and sociable in their behaviour. They are neat in their dress, which is similar to that of the Rus, excepting that they decorate it with white rabbit, and white ermine skins. Many of their lodges, or huts, are decorated in a beautiful manner; having the inside lined with the richest furs, such as the lynx, beaver, otter, white rabbit, martin, fox, mountain cat, and white ermine, sewed together like patch work, which gives them a rich


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183 and beautiful appearance. The lodge of the head chief was sixty feet in diameter, elegantly lined with furs, and the seats, which are also used as beds, were covered with the grizzly bear and buffaloe skins. These people keep their lodges and buildings in a state of great neatness. They cultivate the same kind of produce with the Rus, and carry on a trade with the roving Indians, who occasionally visit them. The Mandans and Gross-Ventres live in great friendship, although they speak different languages; and it is necessary they should, for their villages are not more than six miles apart. The Mandans speak the same tongue of the Osage, but have a different accent, and dialect. They were once a numerous, warlike people, but have been reduced by the small pox, and by their enemies, the Sioux, to less than four hundred warriors.

On the the 13th, we left the Mandans, and arrived at the Gross-Ventres village, which is on the lower side of Batteau river, and is called the Meniture village. Another village, called Meni-tar-u-miti-ha-tah, is situated on the upper side of Batteau river. These villages are larger than the Mandans, built in the same manner, and containing about six hundred warriors, and about twenty-five hundred inhabitants. They were formerly more numerous, but the small pox has made its ravages among them. These people deposit their dead in the same manner as the Mandans, but at a greater distance from their


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184. Soon after our arrival, a young chief, who accompanied us, found a young woman, with whom he contracted matrimony, which afforded an opportunity to witness their marriage ceremonies. Proclamation was made, by one of the relations, that on the next day, in the morning, the marriage would be celebrated. The next morning the bride was dressed in all her finery, and the groom in his richest attire. The company assembled at her father's lodge, where the chief of the village attended. He informed the company, that the young man, calling him by name, intended to take the girl, calling her by name, to be his wife. He then asked each of them if that were their intention, which each of them answered in the affirmative. The chief then handed them a small rod, which was broken between them. The groom then broke his part into a number of small pieces, and handed them to the men who stood near to him. The bride did the same with her part of the rod, which consumated the marriage. Fire was then brought, and the sacred pipe was lighted. After all the men had smoked in it, the dance commenced, which was continued for several hours. As soon as it was finished, the groom took his bride to his lodge to live with him.

These people entertain ideas of chastity very different from any civilized nation. If a stranger comes to reside with them in their cabins a for several days, he is presented with the wife or a


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185 daughter to be his bed-fellow, during his stay. If a girl proves with child, it has no influence to prevent her marriage, and the child is adopted by her husband, and brought up as his own. Their hospitality probably exceeds that of any other people. They share the last mouth full of provisions chearfully [sic], with the greatest stranger, and strive to make him as happy and contented as possible.

Our party now prepared to set out for the summer and fall hunt, and it was determined to go to the River Jaun or Yellow Stone, and to the Rocky mountain. All things being prepared to set off, the 2d of July was assigned, as is usual among these people, for a day of feasting. The feast was prepared, and the ceremonies conducted in the same manner, as at the Rus village, which has been described. After the smoking rite was finished, the head chief of the village addressed us. He commended us to the care of the Great Spirit, and all the good subordinate spirits, wishing us a bright sun and clear sky, that we might overcome any enemy we might meet; that the evil spirits would not spread sickness among us, and that all of us, in due season, should return to the village, loaded with meat and skins. The day was closed with feasting and dancing.

On the 3d of July, the party assembled to the number of forty-three men, women and children; nineteen of whom were men, besides Mr. Pardo and myself. We were provided with thirty-six 16*


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186 horses, one I had hired for myself, and Mr. Pardo had two for himself and squaw. About noon we left the village, and proceeded up the Batteau river, until we passed the second large fork, and then we crossed it to the north side. The river here was about an hundred yards wide, and fordable. The country was barren and hilly. On the 7th, we came to Salt springs, where buffaloe and cabree were very plenty; and the country much infested with wolves, which were very ravenous. Some Indians had very lately removed from this place. We supposed them to have been some of the Gens-di-foulers, who live three miles below the Gross-Ventres, on the Missouri. We occupied their camp, and continued here until the 9th, when we proceeded a western course, crossing a barren country destitute of timber. On the 10th, we came to a branch of the Jaun, called Road river, and followed this branch down to its mouth; where, on the 15th, we arrived at the River Jaun, and encamped in a cotton wood grove. The country near the Jaun is more level, and some of the intervals are very rich; but large barren hills are to be seen at a distance from the river. A party of the Gens-des-corbeau, or Crow Indians, had lately encamped at this place, and their tent poles accommodated us. The river is about half a mile wide, and shallow, but not fordable. We supposed ourselves about a hundred miles from the mouth. Here we caught a number of very fine fish, mostly pike and cat, On the


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187 18th, we crossed the Jaun, and passed up to the mouth of the stream, called by the Indians, La-ca-sha-newatu, or Crooked river, where, on the 19th, we encamped.

The Jaun is a noble stream, somewhat rapid, the bottom sandy, and the water clear; excepting when rain falls, and then it becomes immediately thick from the earth that is washed into it from the barren hills. Many of these hills are so washed, and become so steep, that no animal can ascend them, except the cabree and mountain ram, or rocky mountain sheep. The grizzly or white bear, is plenty in this country, and often attacks the natives. We continued at this camp until the 29th, and then proceeded up Crooked river, and encamped near the first ridge of mountains. Here we killed several of these rocky mountain sheep. The male is considerably larger than the female, and has much longer horns. The horns of a male which we killed, measured three feet in length, and five inches diameter, at his head. This animal is taller than a deer, and has a larger body. It is covered with soft hair of a dun colour, gradually becoming of a lighter colour towards the belly, which is entirely white. Its horns are shaped, in every respect, like the horns of rams, of the common sheep, bending backwards, but have many rough knobs. Its tail resembles that of the red deer. The legs and feet resemble the sheep, but the hoofs some what longer. It is swift and climbs the clifts [sic] of


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 CHAPTER II

THE SHADOW

screamed, and, as if in answer to a bell, the door opened, and Nana entered, returned from her evening out. She growled and sprang at the boy, who leapt lightly through the window. Again Mrs. Darling screamed, this time in distress for him, for she thought he was killed, and she ran down into the street to look for his little body, but it was not there; and she looked up, and in the black night she could see nothing but what she thought was a shooting star.

She returned to the nursery, and found Nana with something in her mouth, which proved to be the boy's shadow. As he leapt at the window Nana had closed it quickly, too late to catch him, but his shadow had not had time to get out; slam went the window and snapped it off.

You may be sure Mrs. Darling examined the shadow carefully, but it was quite the ordinary kind.

Nana had no doubt of what was the best thing Rh

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188 rocks with so much agility and ease, that no other animal can follow it; and by this means it escapes the wolves. Its flesh is esteemed equal to that of the deer.

On the 3d of August, we moved up into the mountains and met with a camp of Gens-de-panse or the Paunched Indians. We encamped with them for the night, and on the 4th, about noon, we had like to have been defeated, by a monstrous white bear. Four or five of the men were ahead, and turning the point of a steep hill, they met a white bear, and fired upon him, but only wounded him. He immediately turned upon them, and they retreated. At the point of the hill they met the rest of the party, the bear pursuing close to their heels, which threw the whole party into confusion. Not being room for us to escape, the bear was in a moment in the midst of us. As one man turned and attempted to run, the bear seized his buffaloe robe, and had not the fastening given way, would have drawn him under his paws. While he was spending his rage on the robe, one of the men shot him dead on the spot. As soon as he fell, the whole party made the air ring with their shouts. This bear was much larger than the black bear. The meat only would have weighed more than four hundred pounds. The mountains here are steep, and some of their points and sides are covered with a small growth, mostly of the spruce kind. The stream we Were ascending is winding, interrupted, and full of rapids,


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189 but it is about one hundred yards wide. We encamped in a large interval, at the mouth of a small stream, and continued here until the 12th, The fur animals had now just done shedding, so that we only hunted the buffaloe, cabree, and mountain sheep. A party was sent to gain the summit of a ridge, so as to pass over to the other side, while the rest of us crawled up, surrounding them on every side, excepting towards the river. As soon as the signal was given, by those who had ascended and gained the opposite side, we all raised a sudden yell, and sprang out of the grass, and the affrighted animals instantly fled from us, pitched over the precipice, and were dashed against the stones, at the bottom, where we killed sixty-one. Some of them fell nearly two hundred feet; but some of them, which were near the bottom, made their escape. It took us several days to dress and cure the meat. The method in which these people cure their meat is to cut it into thin slices, and dry it by the heat of the sun, or a slow fire. They use no salt to preserve it. Meat will continue in this state, if well dried, for a longtime. We killed a wildcat, which resembled the domestic cat, and was of about the same size. It was of a sallow colour, and had a tail nearly of the length of the body. This little animal is very fierce, and often kills cabree and sheep, by jumping on their necks, and eating away the sinews and arteries until they fall, and then sucks the blood. On the 25th, we proceeded up,


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191 Buffaloe were plenty, but as we had secured as much meat as we could carry, we seldom troubled them. On the 16th, we proceeded about ten miles further, and continued here until the 24th, when having loaded our horses, we crossed over a mountain, and encamped on a branch of Big-horn river. The weather was cold, and frequent showers of snow made the travelling difficult. Here the stream was rapid, about thirty yards wide, and winding its way amongst the steep mountains. We were however obliged frequently to cross it ourselves, with our horses loaded with as much as they could carry. On the 28th, we came to a camp of the Crow Indians, where we rested until the 30th, when we continued our course down the river.

The Crow Indians speak either the Mandan or Gross-Ventres tongue, or both of those languages. They left the camp and accompanied us. Here we found the travelling less difficult than it had been. On the 3d of October, we passed two camps, and on the 5th, several more camps, on our way to Big-horn river, where we arrived at night. On the south side is a winter camp of the Crow Indians, consisting of forty-three huts. These huts were sunk three feet below the surface of the ground, but otherwise are built nearly similar to those of the Gross-Ventres. In the centre a post is erected, with notches cut in it for steps, and a hole is left open at the top of it, sufficiently large for a man to crawl out, which is their


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192 passage out and in, during the winter. At this encampment we prepared our buffaloe skin canoes, to descend the Big-horn river, which is large, being three hundred yards wide, with a strong current. On the 9th, we embarked, for the mouth of the river, having detached eight Indians to proceed with the horses by land. At night we stopped at a camp of Crow Indians. Early in the morning of the 10th, we again proceeded, the current very rapid, and at night encamped. On the 11th, we proceeded early, and at night, arrived at the mouth of the river. Here is a village of Crow Indians, but of a different band from those we met with in the mountains. The Crow Indians are divided into four bands, which they distinguish by the following names, Ah-hah-hee-no-pah, Nootsa-pah-zasah, Keet-keet-sah, and Ehart-sah. This village belongs to the Nootsa-pah-zasah band. The band we had left was the Keet-keet-sah,and is the largest of them, consisting of two hundred warriors. The band here consists of one hundred and sixty warriors. This band had lately been on a war expedition against a nation of Indians, who reside on the west side of Rocky mountains, called Pal-lo-to-path, or Flat-heads, and had returned with sixteen prisoners, and a number of scalps. The Flat-heads have a singular practice of flattening their heads, which is different from any other nation of Indianes in this country. It is effected in the following manner. Soon after an


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193 infant is born, two boards are prepared, by drawing a dressed skin over them. One board is longer than the other, and the longest is placed on the back part of the head, extending from the neck about eight inches above the head; the shortest board is placed against the forehead, from the eyebrows, and meets the upper end of the other board. It is then laced together at the sides, and the head of the child is thus confined between these boards, until the child has grown to a considerable bigness. After the head is become sufficiently flattened, it is taken out of this compress. One of the prisoners had her infant child with its head in the frame. I also saw some of the prisoners which were two or three years old, who, I was informed, had the frame on when they were taken. This compression forms the head into the shape of a wedge, swelling it out over the ears, and gives the head a very singular shape. These people are of a middle stature, well formed, and of a pleasant countenance. Their skin of an olive colour, hair lank and coarse, and thertheir [sic] features regular and handsome. The men had a bone passed through the gristle of the nose, which separates the nostril, that extended the width of the face. All the hair on their heads was pulled out, except a lock on the crown, which was left to grow its full length. This tuft of hair was divided into two parts, tied up in a short cue, and fell over each ear. Their dress consisted of nothing more than leggins and moccasons, 17


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Rh to do with this shadow. She hung it out at the window, meaning "He is sure to come back for it; let us put it where he can get it easily without disturbing the children."

But unfortunately Mrs. Darling could not leave it hanging out at the window, it looked so like the washing and lowered the whole tone of the house. She thought of showing it to Mr. Darling, but he was totting up winter great-coats for John and Michael, with a wet towel round his head to keep his brain clear, and it seemed a shame to trouble him; besides, she knew exactly what he would say: "It all comes of having a dog for a nurse."

She decided to roll the shadow up and put it away carefully in a drawer, until a fitting opportunity came for telling her husband. Ah me!

The opportunity came a week later, on that never-to-be-forgotten Friday. Of course it was a Friday.

"I ought to have been specially careful on a Friday," she used to say afterwards to her husband, while perhaps Nana was on the other side of her, holding her hand.

"No, no," Mr. Darling always said, "I am responsible for it all. I, George Darling, did it. Mea culpa, mea culpa" He had had a classical education.

They sat thus night after night recalling that fatal Friday, till every detail of it was stamped on Rh

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194 a young chief, who had a belt of white ermine skins round his middle, and a necklace of white bear's claws around his neck. All the men were tattooed on the breast, with two long, and one short line, drawn horizontally, but on no other part of the body. The women wear their hair tied up in two clubs, which hang over each ear, and a long braid down the back. They were not tattooed, nor do they wear any ornaments, except beads of their own make, formed out of sea shells, about the size of a barberry. Their dress consisted of a buffaloe robe, or a mountain sheep skin, thrown over their shoulders, ground hog skins sewed together, with the tails hanging out on the fur side, fastened round their middle with a belt of raw hide.

On the 13th, a large party of Snake Indians arrived. This nation resides principally on the head waters of the Big-horn river, and in the most inaccessible parts of the rocky mountains, where they have frequently to hide in caverns from their enemies. Owing to their defenceless situation, they become an easy conquest to any nation disposed to attack them; and they are frequently attacked for no other reason, than the pleasure of killing them. Their appearance bespoke their distressed situation to which they are reduced. The complexion of these Indians is dark, but their features are regular, although their visage is thin, and their eyes pretty much sunk into their heads. Their bodies are frequently


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195 crooked, a thing very rarely to be seen among Indians; of a small size, thin and slender. Both men and women have their hair hanging loose on their heads, and only cut short over their eves. Their dress consists only of mountain sheep, cabree or deer skins, thrown over their shoulders. The women sometimes wore a girdle of loose bark, tied round their middle, which was but an indifferent covering. Their ornaments consisted of white bear's claws, and a few beads. The men were armed with the Casoe-tite, or war club, a target or shield made of raw buffaloe hides, a dagger made of bone, ten inches long, and a small bow. We were the first white people which either they, or the Flat-heads had ever seen. The Fiat-heads, likewise, arm themselves with the war club, in which a bone is fastened that projects three inches, a bone dagger, and sometimes one made of iron, which they work out themselves, ten inches long, and three wide, at the handle; a spear pointed with bone or iron, and when they cross the mountains to hunt the buffaloe, they carry a bow with them. The buffaloe is not found on the west side of the Rocky mountains, and there these people subsist on fish and roots.

Our horses arrived on the 15th, and on the 16th, we embarked, to ascend the Jaun river. On the 17th, came to a camp of the Paunch Indians, where we halted for the horses. These, Indians reside mostly towards the head waters of the river Jaun, and the branches of the Big-horn.


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196 They are a large, well looking people, somewhat inclined to corpulency. From this circumstance they have acquired the name of Gens-de-Panse, but they call themselves All-ah-kaa-wiah. They speak a different language from the Gross-Ventres. Their arms consist of bows and spears, with buffaloe skin targets, much larger than those made use of by the Snake Indians, and so thick and firm that an arrow will not pierce them. They use a short bone dagger, and the war club. A few cf them had guns, but no ammunition. Many of the Crow Indians and Gross-Ventres are armed in the same manner.

On the 18th, our horses arrived, and we proceeded, passing many camps of Indians, and halted at night on an island, where we killed a large white bear. The river is rapid but has no obstruction. The ice now began to float, which rendered our navigation dangerous in such slight vessels. Here the Rocky mountains may be seen at a distance to the westward; but the land near the river is mostly level, and though destitute of timber, is apparently of a good soil. The general course of the river is to the north, and sometimes west of north. On the 22d, we arrived at the mouth of a large branch which comes from the southeast, and encamped to wait for the horses. About six miles up this branch, a party of Crow Indians were encamped, and intended to spend the winter. On the 25th, the horses arrived, and as the ice ran thick, took out our boats, and


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197 camped for the winter. Our encampment was in a grove of cotton wood, and willows, and we formed as comfortable huts as possible. Mr. Pardo and myself built one for our own accommodation, with one adjoining for our horses.

On the 3d of November, the buffaloes descended from the mountains in vast droves. The plains were covered with them and with elk. The Indians hunt the buffaloe on horse back, with a bow and a short spear. They ride as near as possible to the gang, and discharge their arrows, while the animals are fighting their dogs. A wounded buffaloe, if he does not fall, frequently turns upon the hunter, who depends upon the dexterity of his horse, which has been v trained up to the business, for his escape. He then discharges more arrows, and dispatches the animal with his spear. These hunts are attended with considerable danger, and sometimes with the loss of both horse and rider. The country in which we were encamped is level to the south, but to the north and west the mountains are in sight, with steep ridges, approaching the river; and to the east is a large mountain, entirely insulated from the Rocky mountains, called the Turtle. This mountain, with the country round it, is covered with timber. Large bands of Indians encamp near it, during the winter for the conveniency of wood. In some places, wood is so scarce that they perish with cold, for want of it. 17*


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198 The extensive country on the Jaun, or Yellow river, is exceedingly fertile. Towards its head waters the land is covered with large timber. Grapes grow in great abundance wherever any trees or brush are to be found. There are vast thickets of plumbs, cherries, and crab apples. The country is mostly level to the foot of the Black mountains, which the Indians say, are completely separated from Rocky mountains. A large river passes between them, which runs to the southward. The range of the Black mountains is from east to west, but the Rocky mountains extend from north to south. The former are about four hundred miles south of our winter encampment, as the Indians compute the distance. They represent the country as fertile beyond description, and as inhabited by numerous bands of Indians. The buffaloe, elk, cabree, deer, black and white bears, are found there, in vast multitudes. The Manclarie Indians are often at war with a nation, which resides in the Black mountains, called, J-a-kar-tha, who speak the same tongue with the Snake Indians or the Aliatans of the Rocky mountains. This nation has also obtained the nick name of Snake Indians, from the same circumstance; that is, .because they hide themselves in caverns and among the rocks, to conceal themselves from their enemies, from whence they are dragged out and killed like snakes. They are also held in great contempt by other nations, who consider them to be too mean to have existence.


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199 The Indians say, that vast numbers of horses and mules abound in, and about the Black mountains. Towards the mouth of the River Jaun, the country is open, level, with extensive prairies, or natural meadows, covered with high grass, but no wood, excepting cotton wood, willows, and a few cedars. On the north side of the Missouri, near the Rocky mountains, resides a nation of Indians, who are numerous, and who are the inveterate enemies of the Gross-Ventres and Crow Indians, and frequently fall on their hunting parties. Their are called Black-foot Indians. I saw one of this nation, who was a prisoner taken by the Crow Indians. He was a large, well made, and his complexion as light as the Gross-Ventres. They are a roving nation, have no villages, nor do they raise any kind of produce.

The weather becoming mild, on the 12th of March, 1803, we moved up the river on which we had encamped, called by the Indians Nan-tu-se-car, or Stillwater river, which is about sixty yards wide. On the 15th, came to salt springs, and boiled some of the water. On the 18th, procured a small quantity of salt, which, to me, was a great relief, as I had lost my appetite for want of it; not having tasted any for more than three months. On the 19th, moved our encampment on to high land, the Salt springs being in a low interval, to avoid the water produced by the melting of the snow. Here the Turtle mountain appeared at a great distance, in a southeast


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200. On the 24th, the snow fell about a foot deep. We proceeded in a northerly direction, and encamped, at night, on a small stream, and continued to the 30th, owing to the fleet and rain. On the 30th, we continued our course, in the same direction, through a plain country, in a well beaten path, and on the 4th of April, came to a branch of the Still-water river, where we encamped to hunt. On the 8th, caught several beaver, otter, and white rabits [sic], which were very numerous. On the 12th, we arrived at the river, we had ascended in July, called Road river, and on the 13th, came to the Salt springs, where we procured a small quantity more of salt. On the 18th, proceeded to the mouth of Catteau, or Knife river, where we arrived on the 24th of April. On the 25th, a great feast was made with the usual ceremonies.

We left the upper Gross-Ventres village, on the 4th of May, in company with a large number of Indians for the trading post on the Assinniboin river, distant about one hundred miles, and on the 11th, arrived at the station. I had formed a determination to leave the Indians at this place, but was prevented by the Sioux Indians, who were with us. The Sioux Indian, who was a relation to the chief, was offered a musket, knife, and hatchet, if he would let me go, but he refused, declaring that I must go with him to his uncle. The traders not being willing to offend the Indians, I was obliged to remain with them. On


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201 the 5th of June, I parted with Mr. Pardo and my former companions, and went with a party of Sioux, of the Tilon Okandanas band, for the heads of Saint Peter's river. The chief, Man-da-ton-que-qua, was gone with part of the Bois-bruil band. On the 15th, we came to a band of the Bois-bruil, on Saint Peter's river, but the chief was not with them. He had gone with a small party to meet a band of Yanton-ansah Sioux, who were proceeding from the falls of Saint Anthony, on the Mississippi, where they had been to procure merchandize, to trade with the other bands. The country we had lately passed through, was mostly level, swampy, and full of small lakes, covered very thick with timber, chiefly pine and spruce. On the 17th, we proceeded down the Saint Peter's, and on the 20th, came to the encampment. This body of Indians consisted of five bands; the Yanton-ansah, Wah-pa-coo-ta, Titon-bois-bruil, Titon-okan-danas, and Titon-sa-oo-nu, about four hundred warriors, and about one thousand four hundred people. On the 27th, the bands mostly separated, and the greater part returned to the Missouri, among whom was the Bois-bruil band, who took the war path. The greatest part of these Indians were well armed, and mounted on good horses, On the 12th of July, encamped at the forks of the River Sasqui, a branch of the Missouri, On the 18th, these bands separated, and we proceeded to the crossing of the three rivers, on the Missouri, above the


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202 mouth of White river. On the 8th of August, we arrived at the Missouri, and a party of us went down to the Salt springs, and made a quantity of salt. The water in the River Sasqui and in the Three rivers is so brackish, as to be very disagreeable to drink; and many other streams on the Missouri have a similar taste. On the 20th, we returned to the encampment, and on the 28th, I went with a party up the Middle fork of the Three rivers, to hunt. The country is considerably broken, and destitute of timber; but numerous salt licks and a plenty of game. On the 16th of September, we returned, having loaded our horses.

We remained at this encampment until the 27th, when we moved up to Teton river. I obtained liberty, on the 3d of October, to go to the Rus village. Here I spent the winter with a number of traders belonging to Saint Louis. The Sioux are enemies to the traders, who follow this employment on the Missouri. They hold them in the greatest contempt, and always rob them whenever they can get a good opportunity.

On the 12th of April, 1804, the traders left the village, and went up the River Chein, or Dog river, to trade. The chief Man-da-tonque-qua came to the village, on the 18th, and took me with him on to the Sioux river, where we arrived on the 6th of May, and continued until the 12th of June, when we removed to the River Sasqui. On the 26th of August, a report was spread


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Rh their brains and came through on the other side like the faces on a bad coinage.

"If only I had not accepted that invitation to dine at 27," Mrs. Darling said.

"If only I had not poured my medicine into Nana's bowl," said Mr. Darling.

"If only I had pretended to like the medicine," was what Nana's wet eyes said.

"My liking for parties, George."

"My fatal gift of humour, dearest."

"My touchiness about trifles, dear master and mistress."

Then one or more of them would break down altogether; Nana at the thought, "It's true, it's true, they ought not to have had a dog for a nurse." Many a time it was Mr. Darling who put the handkerchief to Nana's eyes.

"That fiend!" Mr. Darling would cry, and Nana's bark was the echo of it, but Mrs. Darling never upbraided Peter; there was something in the right-hand corner of her mouth that wanted her not to call Peter names.

They would sit there in the empty nursery, recalling fondly every smallest detail of that dreadful evening. It had begun so uneventfully, so precisely like a hundred other evenings, with Nana putting on the water for Michael's bath and carrying him to it on her back.

"I won't go to bed," he had shouted, like one Rh

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Page:A Topographical Description of the State of Ohio, Indiana Territory, and Louisiana.djvu/219

203 among the Indians, that a party, an army, as they called it, of soldiers were coming up the Missouri. After dispatching messengers to all the Indians near, they hastened to the river, leaving all their women and children with a few men in the encampment. They did not permit me to go with them. On the 25th of September, a council was held on the River Sasqui, to deliberate on the object this army should have in view, and to determine what should be done. Lengthy debates took place, and being much divided in sentiment whether they should attack them, or not, they disolved [sic] the council on the 29th, without deciding what should be done. Another council was held on the 5th of November, consisting of a much larger number, when they came to a determination to invite the Rus to join them, and to attack the soldiers early in the spring. They also agreed to declare war against the Mandans and the Gross-Ventres. During the winter, large bodies of Indians assembled on the Sioux river and the River Sasqui, near to the Missouri.

In the mean time, war was declared against the soldiers and against the Mandans and Gross-Ventres. Early in the spring the spies they had