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Rh spectacle. It is very doubtful whether the men ever would have started again but for the orders of their commander. As they staggered up to a jungle, Strain, after exhausting himself in clearing a path, would order the men to take their turn; but so feeble and dispirited were they, that often nothing but threats of the severest flogging could rouse them to make another effort for their lives. At length their attention was arrested by the cry of a wild animal. It proved to be the howling of a monkey, and the men, elated at the prospect of food, cried out, "There's a monkey, Captain, shoot him!" "Cut away," replied Strain, thinking that the noise would excite its curiosity to come nearer. He was right, for the creature kept leaping from tree to tree, until at length it sat crouched on a limb directly above Strain, who was lying upon his back on the ground.

His carbine being damaged, he took the Sharpe's rifle belonging to Avery, and shooting nearly perpendicularly, sent a ball through the monkey's neck. The rifle, however, being loaded with stronger powder than usual, recoiled, cutting Strain's eyebrow and seriously endangering the eye itself. The monkey, after receiving the wound, made off. Strain, though bleeding freely, fired again. His distrust of the rifle, however, distracted his aim, when he drew a pistol and shot the creature through the heart. She fell over dead, but her tail would not uncoil, and she hung suspended from the limb. Strain then turned to take care of his eye, saying to the men, "If you want that monkey you must cut down the tree." Though tired and feeble, they attacked it with a will, and notwithstanding the trunk was three feet in circumference, and they had only a cutlass to work with, soon had it down. This monkey was a prize. She was soon cut up, and portions of her crammed into a tin kettle, wnich was placed over a blazing fire. Each one took turns at the pot, and they kept it up till midnight, when the animal was nearly all devoured. Weighing some twenty pounds, she gave about five pounds to a man. The starved men, however, were not satisfied, and demanded that the skin should be cooked. But this Strain, with that foresight which again and again saved his little band, refused to give up, saying he should yet need it for lashings in making a raft. This feast was on Sunday night, and the next morning at ten o'clock they pushed on; but the thick undergrowth was almost impassable, and after cutting for seven hours, making only three quarters of a mile per hour, they encamped on a damp clay bank.

During the day they crossed several deep ravines, down the steep banks of which they were compelled to slide, and then cut steps in the opposite sides, up which to climb to the top.

The course of march was generally southerly. The journal at this place remarks, that then, and for some time previous, "our bodies were literally covered with wood ticks, and we were obliged to pick them off morning and evening." During the march Strain shot three small hawks, upon which they made their scanty supper. They suffered severely from mosquitoes during the night, but at eight in the morning were again afoot; and proceeding about two miles over some hills, discovered a considerable river (the Iglesia), entering from the northeast. After making in all about six miles, they encamped at six in the evening. Their only food this day consisted entirely of acid nuts, which were gradually wearing away the teeth.

Having suffered less than usual from mosquitoes, Strain roused his little party at daybreak, and by six o'clock they were again cutting their slow and almost interminable path to the Pacific. After making some six miles they encamped on a bank of rock and indurated clay. During the day they had nothing whatever to eat, and when they halted the whole party were thoroughly worn out. They were too tired even to kindle a fire, but lay down in the darkness and slept on the cheerless bank of the stream. Strain now began to think of another raft, as all were so thoroughly debilitated, and so covered with boils, sores, and scratches that they could not much longer cut their way through the jungle.

Mr. Avery was almost disabled, while the men were becoming daily more and more discouraged. Golden—who was a fine, hale young man when he left the Cyane—was fearfully attenuated, and his spirit so utterly broken, that when ordered to do the least work he would lie down and weep bitterly. For several days Strain could make him march only by threatening to tie him up and flog him: then his dread of physical pain overcame for the time-being his debility. Had he not resorted to this expedient, he would have been obliged to leave him to perish, or remain and perish with him. Strain had once or twice thrown out a hint of his intention to build another raft; but found the two men violently opposed to it, as the danger they had incurred on the last completely intimidated them. But finding the river bends deeper, free from rapids, and comparatively free from snags, he determined to carry out his design at all hazards, especially as he felt convinced that the condition of his foot would not permit him to march more than two or three days longer. The constant irritation, produced by contact with bushes and vines, was rapidly extending the inflammation from the ankle, down the instep and up the leg. At first the men were disheartened; but when told that they need not get on the raft, but might keep along shore in sight, while he and Mr. Avery managed it, they were better contented.

That night being unmolested by mosquitoes

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750 they had a quiet rest, and, though without food, began early in the morning to collect sticks for the raft; but the general debility, and want of proper tools and lashings, made their progress very slow, and it was sunset before they had enough brought together and lashed to float two persons. In the evening Mr. Avery and Strain obtained some hard nuts and a small quantity of palmetto, which was all the food they had eaten for two days.

Says Strain in his journal: "This was the second time during the expedition that I really felt voracious; and before obtaining the nuts and palmetto, I found myself casting my eyes around me to see if there was nothing that had been overlooked that could allay my hunger. Without a fire, which at this time we never lighted unless we had meat to cook, as we wished to economize our ammunition, we laid down and slept near our raft."

The next day Strain and Avery got on the raft, and the two floated slowly down the stream, while Golden and Wilson forced their way along the shore. Thus, two on the raft and two on shore, they proceeded day after day—an occasional halloo, to ascertain each other's whereabouts, alone relieving the monotony of the hours. In making the bends sharp paddling was necessary, which, in their debilitated condition, was very exhausting. The second day they found a dead iguana, with the head eaten off. This they cooked and divided among them. The two men roasted the skin and chewed that. This miserable raft consisted of six half-decayed, broken trunks of trees lashed together with monkey skins and vines. Strain, half-naked, and with his legs dangling in the water, sat on the forward end to steer, while his companion occupied the hinder part to assist. Now a tree in the distance chock-full of white cranes, and again a panther gazing on them with a bewildered stare, or young tigers, were the only objects that relieved the noiseless and apparently endless solitude. To pass away the time, Strain one day made Avery tell his history; at another time he would narrate from Don Quixotte some amusing story. At length starvation produced the same singular effect on them that it did on Truxton and Maury, and they would spend hours in describing all the good dinners they had ever eaten. For the last two or three days, when most reduced, Strain said that he occupied almost the whole time in arranging a magnificent dinner. Every luxury or curious dish that he had ever seen or heard of composed it, and he wore away the hours in going round his imaginary table, arranging and changing the several dishes. He could not force his mind from the contemplation of this, so wholly had one idea—food—taken possession of it. The animal nature, deprived of its support, was evidently closing with resistless force over the soul, and in a few days more would completely force it from its crumbling, falling tenement. On the 4th of March, however, as they sat on shore eating a portion of a dead, tainted lizard, Strain heard a sudden roaring behind, and on looking up stream saw a rapid which they had just passed in smooth water. He knew at once that they must have floated over it at high tide, which now ebbing revealed the rift. It was clear they had at last reached tide-water. This was Strain's birthday, and he was looking out for some good luck. He, however, did not mention his discovery to the men, lest there might be some mistake. But they soon discovered it themselves, and cried out in transport, "Oh, Captain, here is tide! here is tide!" That night Strain could not sleep until the time for flood-tide again arrived, and at eleven o'clock he took a fire-brand and went down to the shore to see how it was going. The doubt was over—they had reached the swellings of the Pacific, and hope was rekindled in every bosom.

The time after this passed wearily. When it was flood-tide they lashed to the shore, and as the ebb commenced cut loose and slowly drifted down stream. At every turn they strained eagerly forward, hoping to get some look-out, or see some signs of civilization; but the same unbroken wilderness shut them in. Having ascertained how high the tide rose, Avery would take the Hudson River as a guage, and prove conclusively that there was no great occasion for hope, as they were yet probably at least a hundred and fifty miles from the sea.

Anxious to get forward, they could not spend time to hunt; and a half dozen kernels of the palm nut, hard as ivory, would often constitute a meal. At length, on the 9th, Strain saw that food must be obtained, or the men would sink and die without making farther progress. He therefore put Golden in his place with Avery on the raft, and taking Wilson with him struck into the woods to forage. Only four cartridges were left to them; and as Strain turned away with the rifle, Avery exclaimed, "For God's sake, Strain, don't shoot at any thing less than a turkey—remember there are only four cartridges left!" After beating about for some time and finding nothing, he came upon a partridge sitting on a limb. The temptation was too strong to be resisted, and he drew up and killed it. His conscience smote him the moment he had done so, as on that single cartridge might yet hang the lives of all the party. At length, however, he came upon a grove of palm nuts. By tightening his cartridge-belt around him, and filling his flannel shirt above it with nuts, he soon had all he could carry, and turned back to the river. But the two got entangled in a swamp, and were wholly exhausted before they could extricate themselves. Wilson then began to beg for the partridge; but Strain told him it was for the party, and must be divided equally. The man at length fell down, and said he could and would go no farther without that partridge. Strain then threw it to him, saying "Take it," and sat down on a log to see him devour it. The starving wretch tore it asunder; but still, feeling that his commander needed it as much as he did, said, "Captain, do

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Rh you want the blood?" "No," replied the latter. "Do you want the entrails?" "No." He then flung him a piece of the bird, and gorged the rest. At length they reached the river, and kept down the bank. About three o'clock, Strain was startled by Wilson's exclaiming, "My God, Sir, there is the raft!" and sure enough, there it was, deserted and floating quietly in the middle of the river, awaiting the action of the tide (it was then slack water) to determine its course.

The sight of that abandoned structure at first struck like an ice-bolt to the heart of both, but a single glance showed Strain that the blankets, spare arms, etc., had been taken away, and another, that about eight feet of rope, which had been used to lash the logs, was left untouched, while one of the paddles still remained. He concluded at once that the party had either obtained assistance and left the raft—in which case they would not require, and would probably neglect, the lashings—or that they had been murdered by Indians, who had left the raft adrift for the purpose of entrapping the remainder. In answer to Wilson's anxious inquiries, he frankly told him his conjectures. "Well, Sir," replied Wilson," if there be Indians about, you have three cartridges left, and are certain of three men, and I think with my machete I can give an account of two more." This was the ring of the true mettle, and pleased Strain much. While awaiting the progress of the raft, which drifted slowly toward their side of the river, they passed their leisure time in eating nuts. Finally, seeing it foul of some drift-wood about one hundred yards below, they after some difficulty got upon it, and proceeded with the current down the river. Strain, however, first made a thorough examination, to see if there was any blood or other evidence of a struggle upon it, or a note from Mr. Avery which might unravel the mystery.

After drifting half an hour they saw a clearing on the left bank; and soon after, in passing the mouth of a small stream on the same side, discovered two canoes approaching rapidly from below.

Not feeling assured that the three paddlers were not Indians, who might prove hostile, as they were colored and spoke loudly in a dialect which, at a distance, he could not understand. Strain determined to keep them at arms' length until assured of their peaceable intentions. He accordingly hailed when they came within rifle-shot, and asked who they were and where they were going. They replied, in Spanish, that they were friends, had just taken off his companions, and brought a letter to himself. True to his naval principles, never to let an enemy approach too near without declaring his intentions, Strain sat across the log and hailed as though he trod the deck of a man-of-war. These two skeletons on a mass of drift-wood thus demanding explanations, were very much like a shipwrecked mariner lashed to a spar bidding a vessel stand off till she showed her colors. When convinced, however, of the peaceable intentions of the natives, they gladly abandoned the raft and entered the canoe. Finding that the boatmen had tobacco and a pipe, Strain immediately borrowed them, and, for the first time since the 4th of February, enjoyed the luxury of a smoke.

It was just dark when they reached the village of Yavisa. The excitement was over—the

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752 immediate necessity of effort past, and Strain's over-tasked nature gave way. He could no longer walk, and was helped by two men to the house of the Sub-Alcade, where he met Mr. Avery and Golden. When the commander of the United States Darien Exploring Expedition entered the Alcalde's house, his uniform consisted of a blue flannel shirt, one boot, and a Panama hat, neither of which articles was in a very good condition.

Perhaps, in justice to Mr. Strain, I ought to say that he does not accept of my method of accounting for his inability to walk; declaring, by way of proof, that, having often heard of the effect of sudden unexpected deliverance from death after a long and painful suspense, he had the curiosity, when the canoes were approaching the raft to take him off, to feel of his pulse, and found it was not quickened by a beat! He therefore naturally enough concluded that it was his cramped position in the canoe that caused his weakness. I am not disposed to differ with a man who pursues knowledge under such difficulties; but he evidently labors under the hallucination that he had some blood to quicken. The fact is, he was drained dry—soul had taken the place of blood, and kept the body alive. The terrible demands on this were now partially released; and with the yielding of the will nature quietly sunk away.

Having obtained from the Alcalde a petticoat, Strain sat down to supper, and ate as a man will who had for forty days never but in one instance ceased to feel the pangs of hunger. But while Strain gave the reins to his own appetite, he cautiously restrained the men. Wilson yielded to his wishes; but poor Golden, after making most pathetic but vain appeals for more supper, then another glass of brandy, and finally for a cigar, sobbed himself to sleep in the corner where a bed had been prepared for him. He was exceedingly debilitated, and had become perfectly childish and almost idiotic from suffering, and Strain feared that bad effects might ensue if he was permitted to eat as much as he wished. But the latter probably could not perceive the propriety of this, especially when he saw his commander, after refusing him more food, turn from an enormous supply to refresh himself with five or six cups of chocolate.

Before Strain's arrival Mr. Avery had learned that Her Britannic Majesty's steam-sloop Virago was at Darien Harbor, but would sail in two or three days for Panama, and suggested the great importance of the former proceeding at once and obtaining from her the necessary supply of provisions and money, offering at the same time to return with the provisions and canoes for the main party.

As he supposed that the men and officers with Truxton had followed his instructions and continued their downward march, Strain believed they could not be far distant; and hence, though most anxious himself to relieve his party, assented to this proposal. Sending, therefore, for the Jefe Politico and Alcalde, he presented his passports, and requested that four canoes should be engaged as soon as possible, and that provisions, medicines, and all the minor luxuries of spirits, fruits, molasses, and tobacco, should be provided. Every thing was promised, though at such exorbitant prices as soon exhausted his limited means. Having done all he could that night, he was assisted by a Mr. Norriga to the house of his uncle, the priest who had offered beds to Mr. Avery and himself. Says the journal:

"Friday, March 10. At early daylight I was awakened by the crowing of numerous cocks which shared my apartment; and this pleasing evidence of civilization soon recalled me to a consciousness of my position and what yet remained to be done before my whole party could enjoy the same luxury. I arose at once, and went to visit the two men whom I had left at the Sub-Alcalde's, but soon found that I had yet a penalty to pay for outraging nature through my diet past and present."

He was seized with the most violent pains, and lay upon his hammock all day rolling in agony. Notwithstanding his severe sufferings, he still planned for his comrades, and aided by Mr. Avery, the Jefe Politico, and Mr. Norriga, managed to provision the party which was to return for the remainder. In the evening, somewhat relieved, though still exceedingly weak, Strain, assisted by the Padre, went down to the river, and took leave of Mr. Avery and Norriga, who, availing themselves of the coolness of the night and bright moonlight, soon after started up the river.

A canoe was to have been ready for himself at the same time, but could not be obtained, and he was forced to wait till morning. The following is from Mr. Strain's journal:

"March 11. At early daylight I was awake and prepared for a start; but hearing no intelligence of the canoes, I walked over to the SubAlcalde's to see how the men had passed the night. I then met a Mr. Lucre, who had recently returned from Panama, and who had arrived during the night from Santa Maria de Real, a village some distance below. He was the first really white man I had met, and by his conduct certainly supported the dignity of his caste, and presented a strong contrast to the grasping, avaricious negroes, and half breeds of Yavisa, who, availing themselves of our necessities, had imposed upon us at every turn.

"Finding it impossible to obtain a canoe in this village, he proposed to take me to Santa Maria in his own, which was very small, while the Jefe Politico, Mas Carinas, accompanied us in another small canoe, in which he carried my two men. Mas Carinas and Norriga were the only two men whom I could exclude from my heartfelt anathema, as I shook the dust from my feet and embarked at Yavisa, as the parish priest and his whole flock were the most arrant cheats I had ever met with in any part of the world.

"It is true that we have no right to expect

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 Rh the highest standard of morality in a frontier village in a wild country, but these people certainly carried the privilege of geographical position to an unjustifiable extent, and were, moreover, utterly devoid of the quality of personal courage, which is found elsewhere in similar situations.

"During my protracted journey in the wilderness, I had frequently, in the spirit which actuated Alexander Selkirk, wished myself once more in a position to be cheated, and if I had selected from a minute map of the world, I do not believe that I could have had any wish so thoroughly gratified as at Yavisa.

"Our little canoes were laden to within a couple of inches of the water's edge, and as the tide turned soon after we left, we made slow progress, but after some four hours' hard paddling we arrived at the mouth of the river Tuyra of geographers, whence we ascended it about half a mile to Santa Maria, the residence of Mr. Lucre, where we were most hospitably entertained. As he had some medicines and ointment, our sores and boils were first treated; after which a pretty little woman, the daughter of the Jefe Politico, Mas Carinas, to whom Mr. Lucre was allied, in accordance with the custom of the country, prepared for us an excellent dinner, of which we partook thankfully. After dinner, finding that I could not be prevailed upon to pass the night, Mr. Lucre lent me his own canoe, and assisted by Mas Carinas and the Alcalde, I engaged three bogas on reasonable terms to convey me to Chapigana.

"At 5.30 we embarked, and I found that attention to my comforts had extended beyond the door of my hospitable entertainer, as a platform of boards was extended along the bottom of the canoe, upon which we could repose, as it appeared to us, luxuriously. Santa Maria de Real, as has been already mentioned, is about half a mile from the junction of the rivers Tuyra and Chuqunaqua, and contains, I should suppose, about six hundred inhabitants. The style of building is similar to that of the Indian Villages on the Caledonia, which we passed on the second day of our journey, although the houses are inferior in size and stability. Two small rivers enter at this village, and the houses are irregularly scattered along their banks, and that of the Tuyra. Large canoes trade between this place and Panama, where they exchange live stock, timber, and plank, for cottons, Delft-ware, cooking utensils, and cutlery. The village has no priest, and the incumbent of Yavisa performs service there as well as in Chapigana and two other villages, Molincea and Pinogana, which are situated on the Tuyra above Santa Maria. With a strong ebb-tide we paddled rapidly down the Tuyra to its junction with the Chuqunaqua, and thence down the united streams, which at this place becomes very wide, though it retains the tortuous character which distinguishes its whole length above Yavisa. At the junction there is a fine view of the Pine Mountain, which rises abruptly from the flat wooded plain which intervenes, to the height of some 2000 feet. After our long confinement in the forest, where our view was constantly limited by the forest growth, it was an intense pleasure once more to see high land and enjoy a distant view, and I thought I should never tire of gazing on this high and isolated mountain. Beyond it, I was informed, there formerly existed an Inca city, or as the natives term it, a City of the King, while on this side was, during colonial times, a Spanish town of considerable importance, which sprang up rapidly near the mines of Espirito Santo, and as rapidly decayed when the mine was closed by order of the King of Spain, after it was found to have attracted the cupidity of the English Buccaneers.

"In the beautiful moonlight, and with an occasional glimpse of the Pine Mountain, we drifted and paddled until about 10, when meeting the flood-tide we tied up to a tree, and each of my bogas addressed themselves to sleep; with me the attempt was nearly a failure, as I suffered such intense pain from my boils and the wood worms (Guzanos de Monte), that until nearly morning I found sleep to be impossible. My two men, too, suffered from the same causes, and about midnight we abandoned the idea, and made a late supper on some boiled salt beef which I had prepared at Yavisa.

"At the same place, in anticipation of this journey, and with direct reference to our

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 754 appetites, which it appeared no amount of food could satisfy, I had some salt pork boiled also, and although I paid very liberally for the cooking, the beef only was returned to me, the pork having been confiscated as a perquisite of the cook.

"I had also purchased a turkey at the cost of three dollars and three quarters, and afterward paid one dollar for cooking the same, but was informed on the morning afterward that it had been eaten by the cat. The skeleton was shown to me, which proved conclusively that the meat of the turkey was gone; but as the depredation had been committed in the house of the Padre, who had considerable influence over the natives, whom I might have occasion to employ, expediency alone prevented me from inquiring whether the cats on that portion of the Isthmus used knives and forks.

"At a late hour weariness overcame the sense of pain, and I fell asleep, and awakened early in the morning to find the canoe under way, and near Chapigana, where we arrived about 6 I soon discovered the house of Mr. Hossack, a Scotchman, who had for a long time resided in that place, and from whom I received a kindly reception. From the river to his house I made my way with great difficulty, as the beach was covered with sharp stones, which cut my bare feet very severely. Golden had to be carried by two men, as he was too much debilitated to walk.

"By Mr. Hossack I was informed that the Virago had sailed for Panama two days before, and that she would return on the next Thursday. He also informed me that the engineers of the Atlantic and Pacific Junction Company, had a dépôt of provisions on the river Savana, at its junction with the Lara, where I could obtain all that was necessary for my party. I requested him to use his influence to obtain a canoe and bogas to convey me at once to this station, but found that none would venture, owing to the strong trade-wind which was blowing across the harbor.

"The day was passed in patching up our dilapidated physique, and in obtaining news; and it was then I learned, for the first time, that our long absence was generally observed, and had caused much uneasiness.

"Unable to write myself, I requested Mr. Hossack to communicate the intelligence of our arrival to his friends in Panama, to prevent unnecessary uneasiness among those who had friends in the party.

"Monday, March 13. A little before daylight we started in a large canoe, belonging to Mr. Hossack, and with three bogas, for the Savana; with a fair tide we passed across the broad estuary, which is by some considered the river Tuyra, and by others called Darien Harbor, and passing the mouth of the Iglesias and Arcti, on the left bank, entered the Savana, which we ascended until about half past 2, when we arrived at a penal establishment of New Grenada, which had been recently established, in order to assist Mr. Gisborne and party in the prosecution of their survey."

A few hundred yards above the Presidio stood the English dépôt occupied by the naval engineer, Mr. Bennett. He was an Irishman, tall, well-formed, and with a manly, noble presence. Strain, reduced by long starvation from one hundred and forty-five pounds in weight to seventy-five, covered with sores, and clad in such habiliments as the negro Alcalde at Yavisa could furnish him, presented the appearance of a common beggar rather than that of the Commander of the United States Exploring Expedition. As he approached he accosted a negro servant of Mr. Bennett, and inquired where his master was. The negro pointed to where he sat by a table, engaged in making drawings, surveys, etc. As Strain drew near, Mr. Bennett accosted him rather sternly, saying, in somewhat repulsive tones, "Well, Sir, what do you want?" The latter replied, "I am Lieutenant Strain, Commander of the United States Darien Exploring Expedition." "My God!" exclaimed the warm-hearted, noble man, as he caught him in his arms, and pressed him to his bosom, while the tears rolled down his cheeks: "Ah," said he, "we had given you up long ago as lost." He immediately ordered dinner; and, while Strain was eating, told him that he must remain there and recruit, and he himself would go back after his comrades. This was the more generous, as he was very lame from the effect of a large wood worm which had been extracted from his leg. Strain, of course, declined the offer. He then supplied him with provisions, brought out nearly all the clothing he had, saying, "Take these to the poor men;" forced on Strain his poncho, turned his medicine chest, and pockets too, inside out. Not content with this, he ordered a bed placed in Strain's canoe for him, stowed away books, cigars, indeed every thing his noble heart could suggest for his own comfort and that of his men. At five o'clock in the evening Strain, who, while the fate of his comrades remained uncertain, seemed impervious to fatigue, started back for Yavisa, where he arrived on the 15th. Going ashore, he ascertained that two of the men dispatched with Mr. Avery had returned. He immediately sent for them, and inquired the cause of their desertion. They replied they were out of provisions. This he knew to be a falsehood. Disgusted with their cowardice and knavery, he told them that he would not pay them one cent for their services unless compelled in course of law, and would then do it under a solemn protest, and refer the matter to their superior authorities. This threat he fulfilled religiously.

The next day the two bogas, who had returned from Avery's party above, sent him a note from the latter, dated March 13th, stating that he had already passed the place where they had constructed the raft on the 2d of March, but had seen nothing of the main party.

He complained bitterly of the indolence and

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Rh cowardice of the bogas, whom he found great difficulty in keeping with him by threats and promises, but remarked that he hoped that day to find the party, and that he and Norriga would not return even if all the men left them. At the same time he urged Strain to follow him up without delay. Upon the reception of this intelligence, he was somewhat undecided for a time as to how he ought to act, but finally determined to wait the return of Mr. Avery, or of his party, in the event they should return without him. As his letter stated that they were still advancing, and already near the point where they might reasonably expect to meet the main body in their downward progress, he had little doubt but Avery would be successful, which would make another party entirely unnecessary. Even if he did fit out another party of natives, they would be no more likely to advance than that now with Mr. Avery; and should he accompany them up, and they insist upon returning before reaching the main body, a loss of time would be involved which might prove fatal to them. It was on this day that the Virago was expected at Darien Harbor from Panama, and, as a last resource, he could apply to her commander, and obtain men who would not be arrested by common obstacles. Still, while awaiting momentarily the arrival of Mr. Avery with intelligence, and perhaps with the missing party, he felt averse to leaving Yavisa, and determined to delay at least until next morning, before taking any definitive action. Upon one point he was determined—that if Mr. Avery was forced to return unsuccessful, the safety of his men should not be intrusted to the cowardly natives, but that he would obtain a party of English to accompany him, or, failing in that, would demand an escort of troops from the Granadian Presidio on the Savana, who by their muskets and bayonets might force the bogas to do their duty.

The day passed most anxiously, but as none of Avery's men returned, he augured favorably. The journal says here:

"Friday, March 17. Before daylight I was awakened by the Padre, who announced Avery's return. In answer to my first question, 'Have you brought the party?' he replied, 'One of them. I have brought Parks.'" He had passed the point where, on the 14th of February, the advance party had constructed the first raft, and discovered a cross on the bank, from whence was suspended a letter from Mr. Truxton, to which allusion has already been made in the record of the main party, where a copy is given.

Having read the letter, and discovered that the party were retrograding, he went into camp for the night, intending to follow them up the next day. This was the 14th of March, one month after the advance party had passed this point, and eight days before it was left by the main body under Mr. Truxton. On the morning of the 15th Mr. Avery, accompanied by Mr. Norriga and two bogas, in a small canoe, attempted to ascend the river in pursuit of the party, but meeting a log, about two miles above Holmes's grave, which extended across the river, as they erroneously supposed, they returned to the other men, who refused to go further. Every effort appeared to have been made to induce the natives to proceed, but fear of the Indians had obtained such a firm hold of their minds, that no inducement could be offered sufficiently tempting. Double pay for every day's additional service was offered them, double pay for the whole journey, with a handsome present to each boga upon their return to Yavisa, if they would only proceed up the river one day longer.

Their avarice, though great, appears not to have equaled their cowardice; and with gloomy anticipations, Mr. Avery hastened down the river to report his failure, and to obtain more men and further instructions. They started on their return from No. 2 Hospital Camp, and passing rapidly over the raft journey of the 15th of February, heard at meridian a call on the right bank of the river. Landing, they discovered Parks, who, it will be remembered, strayed from the main body on the 5th of March. He was unable to move, and slightly delirious, but gave what afterward proved to be a tolerably correct account of the condition of the party up to the 5th of March, when he lost himself in the forest. Of his own wanderings he gave no very distinct account, nor could he state how many days he had been absent from the party. From the 5th of March until the evening of the 14th he appeared to have been lost in the forest, and absent from the river; upon his return to which, the evening before he was found, he stated that he had drank six quarts of water, and laid himself down to die. For want of food he said that he did not at first suffer, as he had palmetto when he separated from the other two men, and cut down the palm-nut trees with his knife. His knife he finally broke, after which he obtained no more food, but could not remember how long that was after he was lost. His whole body was covered with wood-ticks, which were removed by Mr. Avery, after which he was oiled, to soften the skin, and relieve the sores.

Food was given him in small quantities, of which he at first wished to eat voraciously, but his hunger being soon appeased, he never asked again for it, although constant in his demands for water. He did not know Strain, but called every body Captain Strain. When brought into the presence of the latter, he got up by the side of the house, and, leaning against the wall, exclaimed, "Oh, Captain, Captain, give me some water!"

"What do you want?" replied Strain. "Oh, it is too late!" he replied, and sunk down and never spoke again, though, at the time, no one thought him dying.

Thoroughly alarmed at hearing that the main body had attempted a return—which Strain feared would terminate in a perfect route, and most disastrously to the lives of all—he only

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awaited until daylight to demand from the Alcalde a second force, to be placed under his own command, and with positive instructions, under the severest penalties known to the rude law of that region, not to leave him until they had overtaken the party. By dint of threats and exertions, he obtained the necessary orders from the Alcalde upon the local authorities of Yavisa, Pinogani, and Santa, to supply the requisite number with all dispatch, and immediately proceeded to the hire of five canoes. Says the journal:

"While arranging this important business, I was shocked by receiving intelligence of the death of Parks. I had left him but a few minutes before, apparently asleep, and though delirious he appeared strong, and was no more emaciated than the members of my own party. Ordering that a coffin should be made, and a grave dug, I charged Mr. Avery and the Padre with the care of his funeral, and prepared to set out immediately down the river to meet the Virago and ask their assistance, as I feared to intrust the safety of the party above to the cowardly natives, who might again return before reaching it.

"The Virago, I knew, ought to have returned on the day before, and I had determined, if by any chance she should have been delayed, to ascend the Savana to the New Granadian Presidio, and demand from the officer in charge a sufficient guard of soldiers to insure the obedience of the bogas whom I had requested to be drafted for the expedition. I hoped that military discipline might have repaired to some extent inherent cowardice, and that the bayonets of the troops would appear more formidable than the remote danger from the Indians. Unwilling to delay one moment longer than necessary, I left instructions with Mr. Avery to embark the provisions and medicines which I had brought up, and set out as soon as the natives should arrive from the various adjoining villages. Meanwhile the Jefe Politico, Mas Carinas, arrived, and a demand was made upon me by the bogas who had accompanied Mr. Avery, not only for the pay which had been promised them, but for the extra pay which he offered them on condition that they should accompany him until the party was relieved." The additional pay he refused to give them, and reproached them bitterly for their cowardice and roguery in stealing nearly all the provisions which he had with great difficulty obtained and destined for his own men, whom they had so scandalously abandoned to their fate.

The altercation waxed warm, and Strain's life was threatened; but he presented a six-barreled pistol, and kept them back, while a threat from the Jefe Politico that he would consign them to prison finally restored order.

Uneasy, vexed, and indignant, he finally threw himself into his canoe, and taking advantage of the remainder of the ebb-tide, swept rapidly down the river in search of assistance of such a character that he could risk the lives of his party upon it.

Extra pay and constant urging induced the bogas to pull even after the tide had turned, and when they could no longer make any headway against the current, and were forced to anchor, they had already made some sixteen or eighteen miles.

Immediately after anchoring, Strain was informed by a fisherman that an armed English boat was coming up the river; and soon after,

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Rh to his great joy, she made her appearance, moving rapidly with the tide. He immediately got under way to intercept her, and, upon hailing, found that she contained a party from the Virago, under Lieutenant W. C. Forsyth, which had been sent to his assistance by Captain Edward Marshall, who, in a very polite note, congratulated him upon his arrival, and requested him to bring his whole party on board his ship. Mr. W. C. Bennett also accompanied the detachment, and it was to his promptness and energy that this timely assistance was rendered; for, as soon as he heard the Virago's guns at the mouth of the Savana, he jumped into a canoe, and, paddling himself, hurried down and stated Strain's urgent necessities, which induced Commander Marshall to expedite his expedition so that it left the Virago at midnight on the night previous. It is true that the intention to send a party up the Chuqunaqua already existed; but the promptness of Mr. Bennett, and his earnest representations, advanced its departure several hours, and thus saved Strain the voyage to Darien Harbor. The latter immediately transferred his baggage from the canoe to the paddle-box boat, and arrived at Yavisa a short time after dark. He there learned that answers to the call for men had been received from neighboring villages, but that none had yet arrived, though they were expected in the morning.

The next morning they were stirring early, and every effort was made to obtain canoes for the ascent, as they had determined not to wait the arrival of the natives, but to have them dispatched after by the Jefe Politico and the Alcalde. The constitutional tardiness of the natives, increased by a partially-concealed dissatisfaction at the arrival of the English officers and seamen, delayed them for some hours, and it was not till afternoon that, partly by entreaties, and partly by force, they obtained three canoes and put off.

The tide and some fourteen English oarsmen propelled them rapidly up the stream, and they only halted when it became so dark that they could proceed no farther. While at anchor near the bank, an incident occurred which had nearly proved fatal to the expedition and all engaged, and for a moment seemed to indicate that destiny was against them, and that the unfortunate party had been marked for destruction. At eleven o'clock at night, when all were asleep in the boat except the two sentries and Strain, the latter heard amidst the profound stillness a cracking and rending of timber in the woods, which he knew at once to proceed from a falling tree. He first thought it was some distance from the bank, but on looking up to see whether it was likely to strike and bring down any other timber nearer the shore, he saw against the starlit sky, directly over his head, the dark and swaying form of a tree gradually declining toward the spot where the unsuspecting boats lay moored. His first thought was, "My poor men will now be lost!" He, however, never opened his mouth, but watched the descending mass without moving, as it came directly toward him. Suddenly, as if turned aside by some unseen hand, it inclined to the right, and fell with a fearful crash into the river, a few feet behind, tearing off a piece of the stern of one of the canoes which was moored alongside. Shouts and exclamations followed, and for a moment the greatest consternation prevailed among the seamen, who thought the Indians were upon them; but the voices of the officers, and assurances that the danger had passed, soon restored order. Mr. Avery, who slept in a canoe alongside, had a narrow escape; but fortunately a good wetting was all the inconvenience which any of them experienced.

Next day was Sunday, and all were early at work and advancing up the river. About midday they were joined by two canoes containing eleven natives, who had been dispatched after them by the Jefe Politico in Yavisa. At two o'clock they arrived as far as the paddle-box boat could go, and after a hasty dinner, embarked the officers and a portion of the men in the canoes. It was at this point that Strain had discovered tide-water on the 4th of March, during the downward journey.

From this place down to the harbor of Darien, a distance of fifty miles, there is no obstacle to the navigation, and even at the lowest stage of water about two fathoms can be carried. Above this salto the same draft might be carried during the rainy season; but the immense quantities of floating timber at that time, combined with the narrowness of the stream and the frequent rapids, will probably prevent the river being navigated even under the most favorable circumstances. The gunner of the Virago and eight men were left in the paddle-box boat, Avery and Wilson remaining with them, neither of them being in a condition to render much service, and requiring rest and diet. Still Mr. Avery, with an endurance and spirit which honored him, offered to go on, if it was thought he could afford the slightest assistance. Mr. Bennett had brought his own canoe, so that, with the two owned by the natives, they had now six in all. The largest of these was given to William Ross, and was intended as a hospital. He was accompanied by the paymaster, W. H. Hills. Mr. Forsyth took charge of the canoe next in size to that of the surgeon, Mr. Bennett of his own, while Strain selected the canoe of the lightest draft for himself. The remaining two were managed by the natives, who halted to dine, while the main party proceeded over the rapids, which—the tide being out—were passed with great difficulty. At night, when they encamped, the natives rejoined and encamped near them. The 12-pound howitzer in the paddle-box boat was heard distinctly at 8 This was Sunday, and the next morning, March 20th, after a hearty breakfast, they started in the same order as on the previous day; but before mid-day, Strain found that the exertion of paddling a canoe was too great for him, and that his feet had become

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758 fearfully swollen. He accordingly ordered the Padron of the natives to put one man in each canoe, both to paddle and steer it, while two English seamen were retained for the sole purpose of paddling. The officers having managed their own canoes thus far, it had a good moral effect, and convinced the natives that the whites were not so dependent on them as they supposed. The dexterity which the English seamen displayed in the management of the boats surprised every one, but was accounted for by the fact that the Virago had been for some time under repair in Puget Sound, on the northwest coast of America, where the sailors had frequent opportunities of amusing themselves with the canoes of the Indians, which are much less stable even than those of the Isthmus.

At dark they encamped on a shingle beach, and, after a hearty supper, set the watch, which consisted of one officer and two sentries. The remainder were soon asleep around the watch-fires.

As rapids were becoming frequent, one of the native canoes was detailed to assist the English to stem the strong current, which they did by dragging them over by hand. The other was permitted to go ahead for the purpose of hunting, in which the men were very expert. Passing several well-recognized camps of his downward progress, and intervals which it had cost him days of hard labor to accomplish, they encamped after sunset, the 21st, on the rocky beach upon which Strain had slept the 16th of February, after having abandoned his raft in the morning.

The raft and paddies were still there, and one of the latter, which Strain made with a macheta, was secured as a memento by one of the English officers, and afterward proved useful when another was broken. The abundance of food, two fires, the bustle of many men, and the sound of many voices, was a pleasing contrast to the chilly, foodless, fireless nights which he had passed in the desert. Still there was a "plus ultra" which prevented enjoyment, and his silent exclamation was, "Oh that I could bring the remainder of the party to the same degree of comfort, and I should be content.

At ten o'clock next morning they arrived at No. 2 Hospital Camp of the main body, where, upon the cross over Holmes's grave, Mr. Avery found the letter from Mr. Truxton, informing Strain of his intentions to go back. Landing, Strain examined it critically, but could find no indications of disorganization or route. An old hat and pieces of cloth lay about, but there were two regular camps, with their respective fires, and evidences of an attempt at comfort. The camp of the men was nearest the water, while a path had been cut to the officers' camp, which was about forty feet distant. In the latter he discovered a tree that had served as a target for pistol-shooting, which convinced him that they were neither utterly dispirited or so short of ammunition as he and his party had been. Although the rude attempt to raise the evidence of Christian burial over one of the men who, in high health and spirits, had left the Atlantic coast, could not but produce the saddest reflections, yet he was already prepared for it, and left the camp with brighter anticipations, from the evidences of continued discipline and organization which he had observed. The native canoe-men at this point remonstrated against proceeding further up the river, but as he indignantly refused even to listen to their representations, they postponed the discussion for a future occasion.

Ascending rapidly, they arrived at the fallen tree which had barred Mr. Avery's upward progress; but, upon examination, it was found that, in falling, the roots had opened a narrow channel between it and the bank, through which the small canoes passed easily. The larger ones experienced more difficulty, but with a half hour's cutting of the bank all got safely through, and the ascent was rapidly continued. As the day declined obstacles became more numerous, and much skill and dexterity were displayed by the natives in passing under and over fallen trees which extended across the river, near the level of the water.

As they continued to ascend they saw small crosses along the banks, erected, according to previous arrangement, by the main party as they descended, to point out to Strain their progress when he should return with assistance. But the signs soon ceased, and although they passed numerous return camps, there was no symbol from which it could be inferred that they had the remotest hope of relief from below. Worn-out belts and cartouche boxes, found in camps on the river, showed that the party were dispensing with all unnecessary weight, while pieces of leather cut from the latter gave evidence that their boots and shoes were nearly worn out. Quills and feathers of the loathsome buzzard scattered along, revealed the character of food to which stern necessity had at last driven them. In the afternoon they arrived at the camp from whence Strain had taken leave of the party, and found that it had been revisited by them, the evidence of which was the remains of a fire and some cartouche boxes which had been discarded. About sunset they encamped on a sloping bank, and passed a night of torture, owing to the myriads of mosquitoes which infested the camp.

This was a sad night for Strain. From the examination of to-day's camp it was evident his command had given him up for lost, and commenced the desperate undertaking of finding their way back to the Atlantic shore. The prospect now grew painfully alarming. Strain could not sleep, but agitated, anxious, and feverish, sat up all night fanning himself. The noble-hearted Bennett kept him company nearly the whole night, and cheered him with promise of assistance to the last. He told him that a fearful and trying day was before him on the morrow—alluding to the revelations which the camps of the men would make. He requested

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Rh him also to get a pair of boots of one of the men, and try by degrees to wear them; for, said he, no one can tell how distant the party may be, and when we ascend as high as the boats can go, the natives, you know, will refuse to advance, and, in all probability, the English seamen also, as they have a mortal dread of the Indians. And as Strain turned inquiringly toward him, he added, "And, you know, when all shall turn back, you and I must shoulder our haversacks and take to the woods alone, till we find your men." This noble self-devotion of a stranger and foreigner—this grand, high purpose to cast his lot in with the distressed commander, and save his party, or perish with them—reveals one of those lofty, elevated characters which shed lustre on the race.

At early daylight, when the sand-flies relieved the night-guard of mosquitoes, they rose to prepare for a day of labor and excitement, as Strain had every reason to believe he should overtake the main body of his party before night. As they were now nearly in the heart of the Isthmus, and might possibly meet Indians, a regular order of sailing was adopted, and the canoes followed each other in close order.

Strain led the van, accompanied by a canoe containing three natives, who, sailing close along the edge of the shore, examined each camp and searched the river bank step by step. At about nine o'clock, Strain was startled by the cry from the Padron:

"Here is a dead body!"

For a moment he was intimidated, and shrank back as if smitten with a death-chill, and was on the point of asking some one to land and examine it in his place. He did not know which of his friends or comrades he might find stark upon the beach, and for a moment wished to escape the horrible spectacle. Reflection, however, soon convinced him that it was a necessity which must be met, perhaps even till he had counted up, one by one, all of his command, and, nerving himself for the worst, he shoved his canoe ashore. Birds of rapine and beasts of prey had left little more than the skeleton, but a glance at the linen shirt under the blue uniform of the party showed at once that it was an officer. Upon a closer inspection of the bones and skull, he discerned that it was the remains of Mr. Polanco, the junior Granadian commissioner. The outline of a grave was below, which induced the officers and men who accompanied him to believe that the body had been buried and afterward disinterred by wild beasts; but Strain read the history of the recent tragical events more accurately.

The grave was too short for Mr. Polanco; besides, there was not sufficient evidence that the ground had been torn up, while the clothing, flattened over the bones, showed plainly that they had never been covered with earth. He felt, therefore, rather than knew, that Mr. Castilla, his companion, lay beneath, and that he, faithful in death as he had been faithful and docile in life, had laid down and died upon his grave. Where he lay there they interred him, sacredly gathering together even the finger bones; and, placing a cross over the joint remains of these unfortunate, educated, and talented young men, before whom but a few weeks previous a bright future appeared to be opening, they continued their journey saddened and subdued by the melancholy spectacle.

The English officers could not witness it, but turned away sick and sad. It was not till after they had left the spot, that Strain mentioned his convictions concerning the grave, lest some one might propose a delay for the purpose of examining it. The dead were beyond reach of human assistance and human sympathy, but to those who remained of his party delay might be death.

At about 10, a tree was met extending entirely across the river, which had to be cut in two before a passage could be effected. Cheerfully and heartily the English seamen went to work; but the natives, for a long time, hung back, and, after a consultation, declared that they would go no farther.

Grieved and distressed beyond measure by the fearful sight he had just witnessed, and feeling that the skill and dexterity of the natives were becoming every hour more essential to his success, Strain was thoroughly enraged by this despicable conduct. He entreated, upbraided, and threatened by turns, and gave them to understand that, even should they escape alive from his own party of armed and determined men, whose success depended in a great degree upon their assistance, the grape and cannister of the howitzer in the boat below would prevent their reaching Yavisa. He wound up his harangue by swearing, with the most solemn oath known to those barbarians—viz., by the soul of God—that, even if they should escape these dangers, he would devote the remainder of his life to their punishment. Sorrow and anger combined gave an impressiveness to the solemn oath—especially as he presented a six-barreled revolver to their breasts, declaring that at least six of them should never return. After a short and frightened consultation, they agreed to continue on the remainder of that day. Although Strain hoped confidently that the party would be overtaken before night, he did not accept of these conditions, as he was determined that they should never abandon to a fearful death men whose lives were of so much more value than their own, especially as they had embarked in the enterprise, and by their promises induced him to consume time which was beyond price.

For some hours, early in the afternoon, they lost sight of the return camps, and the English party, officers as well as men, became apprehensive that the party had abandoned the river. But on this subject Strain felt no anxiety, as he knew that they would not dare to leave the

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stream, which was their only guide and the only certain source from which they could obtain water. Nearly the whole of this day they fired their muskets and shouted at short intervals, in order to attract their attention should they be pursuing their march in the forest, where it was generally more free from undergrowth than close to the river bank. Late in the afternoon a log across the river compelled them to leave the canoes, which were forced over by the united strength of the party. Here a stench induced Strain to believe that one of his unfortunate companions had been left in the forest; but, after a brief search in the bushes, not finding any thing, he pushed on—feeling that, even if his suspicious were true, the poor creature was beyond human relief, and it was those who suffered and yet lived that demanded his utmost efforts. Soon after passing this barrier ashes were discovered, which the Padron, in his scout canoe, pronounced to be less than four days old. When Strain announced this intelligence to the party, three cheers were given by the English seamen, that made the forest ring, and they sprang to their paddles with such energy that the water foamed away from the prows of their canoes as they bounded onward.

Signs of disorganization, however, now became more alarming, and the evidence of extreme debility and starvation more apparent. Buzzard's quills, haversacks, fragments of clothing strewed along, together with the want of order in the camps, and their close proximity, attested that the little band had well-nigh reached the end of their march. With every fresh symptom of extreme destitution Strain became more painfully agitated, for the dreadful fear that they had been compelled to resort to cannibalism haunted him, and made him tremble to proceed. But nerving himself to the worst, and keeping his forebodings to himself, he pushed on, and soon after announced a camp less than three days old. This was responded to by a loud cheer and a discharge of fire-arms. Even the natives began to feel the excitement, and bent to their paddles with lustier strokes. They had not proceeded far before another camp was found, the ashes of which were declared to be warm; and then the excitement reached the highest pitch. Shout after shout went up, shot after shot rang through the forest, and a common enthusiasm and ardor inspired every breast.

At about sunset the natives, who were ahead in the scout canoe, announced a smoke in sight, and immediately after making a turn in the river Strain discovered five men standing on the shelving beach just out of the wood. He immediately discharged his musket to warn them of his approach, lest the effect of too sudden joy might be fatal; and then cheer after cheer echoed and re-echoed through the forest, as each canoe in succession swept round the point and caught sight of the motionless forms in the distance.

When Strain saw but five men his heart sank with dread, and he exclaimed, "My God, is that all!" but the next moment a faint cheer from the forest in the rear announced that others

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Rh still remained alive. His canoe swept with a bound to the shore; but before its prow grated upon it he was on the land. His first inquiry of Maury was, "How many men have you lost?" "Five," replied Maury. "I know," responded Strain, "of four, who is the other?" "Lombard" said Maury." By this time Truxton had staggered up, and, flinging his arms around Strain, exclaimed, "Oh, Strain, did I do right to turn back?" Joy at his sudden release from the terrible death that awaited him, relief from suffering and suspense, were forgotten in the single question of duty. "Did I do right?" was the only thought, the only question. How that involuntary exclamation honors him—exalts him above all eulogy! Duty had governed him from first to last; duty occupied him even in the extreme suffering of starvation. So long as we can have such officers to command our ships, our navy will retain her old renown, and whether flying or struck, our flag will still be covered with glory.

One of the men, named McGinness, threw his arms around Strain, and bursting into tears, exclaimed, "Oh, Captain! poor Boggs is breaking his heart to see you." As Bennett, the noble Irishman, jumped ashore, and saw the hideous spectacle of scarred and almost naked skeletons, he seized each one by the hand, while the tears poured like rain down his cheeks. The Scotch surgeon gazed around him a moment, apparently bewildered, then leaping back into the boat seized a bottle of port wine under each arm, and hastening from the one to the other, said, "Take a little of this, my poor fellow; take a little of this!"

But this spectacle was nothing to that which awaited them at the camp. Several of the poor men there had heard the shouts of deliverance, but the joyful intelligence could not impart strength to their wasted frames. There they lay—lacerated, ulcerated frames of men half-covered with rags. Each turned his eye as his commander approached, but none could get up. Strain first came upon Vermilyea, stretched on his back and emaciated to such a dreadful degree that he did not know him. The latter, however, said, in a feeble voice, "How do you do, Captain? We are glad to see you back again. We were afraid you were lost." Strain, with a breaking heart, gazed on him a moment, when the poor man asked, "Won't you shake hands with me, Captain?" "Yes," replied the former. "I beg pardon, Captain, but I can't get up." Strain then kneeled down beside him and tried to cheer him, saying he had brought along provisions, a doctor, and every thing needed, and he hoped to see him on his feet again soon. "I am afraid, Captain" he faintly replied, "I shall never march any more." Alas! it proved too true. As Strain rose to his feet he saw a figure sitting a little way off on the ground doubled up against his knees, his pantaloons off up to his thighs, while a part of a shirt, and a palm-leaf hat with but half a rim completed his costume. He was ghastly and frightful to look upon. As he caught Strain's eye he touched the fragment of his hat-brim, and endeavored to smile. The

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762 which the effort gave to his almost black and emaciated face rendered him still more horrible. "Who are you?" said Strain. "Henwood," he replied, and again attempted to touch his hat in true naval discipline. "We were getting very uneasy about you, Sir," he added; "very glad to see you back." Strain, horrified and struck almost dumb at the spectacle, replied mechanically, "Well, Henwood, how are you getting along?" "Oh, very well, Sir; but we were very uneasy about you. We are very glad to see you back, because, if you had not come up to-night, there's me, Harris, Miller, and poor Boggs, who could not have gone on to-morrow, Sir." The appellation "poor" was applied to Boggs, because he was an officer. The posture of this young man, his emaciated, half-naked appearance, the resigned manner in which he spoke of his fate, together with the ghastly attempt at a smile, combined to render him one of the most strange and frightful spectacles the human form ever presents. Beside him sat another in the same condition, who to Strain's inquiries answered in the same manner. Truxton had by this time reached camp again, and exhausted lay down. Strain advanced a little farther to where Boggs—his old schoolmate and fellow-officer—was lying on a ragged counterpane which he had carried instead of a blanket. The poor man had at last yielded to despair, and the presence of his friend failed to rouse him. Strain knelt over him and exclaimed, "Good God! my dear fellow don't think of dying. I have brought plenty of provisions, medicine, doctor, etc. We will soon be on the Pacific. Cheer up, and we will take many a good glass of wine together yet in Springfield!" Finding that he could not rally him, he spoke of the lady to whom he was engaged, of her anxiety and welfare, in order to rekindle hope and effort. "I don't think I shall die yet," replied the sufferer, in a low and feeble voice, but it is fortunate you came up as you did, for they had decided to leave me to-morrow." The perfect composure and resignation which reigned in that ghastly group, gave ten-fold impressiveness to the scene. But no description can convey any adequate impression of its true character. The British officers were shocked beyond measure, and the surgeon declared that though he had seen much of suffering, in hospitals and elsewhere, he never before dreamed that men could live and march in such a state of emaciation and destitution.

It is a little singular that every half-starved creature asked first for sugar, though this may be owing to the effect upon their system of the acid nuts, on which they had so long chiefly sustained life. Five pounds of sugar and five bottles of molasses were first served out. The doctor then went round with some soft biscuit. In arranging the camps that night, Strain ordered the natives to occupy the other side of the river, lest overcome by the importunities of the men, they might give them tobacco and food. After the first slight allowance of food all begged for tobacco, but this the doctor forbade. Strict watch was maintained over them all night, and the wants of each attended to. Vermilyea was kept alive only by stimulants.

The next moving the men awoke elated, and preparations were immediately made for breakfast. Food, of course, was given out in very small portions, as the least excess might prove fatal. Truxton, however, took Strain aside, and in a wheedling way said, confidentially: "Your restricting the men in their food, and even Maury, is exceedingly judicious, but, you know, with us officers it is very different—give me a little meat." But Strain refused, and in a little while Maury took him aside and said, in the same confidential manner: "It is all very well, Captain, to restrain men, and Truck too (meaning Truxton), he is shaky, you know, but I am nearly as well as ever." Strain could not repress a smile, still he refused to be coaxed. However, it is but just to Maury to say, that he was in full as good a condition to gorge himself as Strain was when he ate nearly half his weight at Yavisa. And in speaking of Lieutenant Maury here, it is right and proper to say, that from first to last of this fearful journey, he exhibited all the loftest [sic] qualities of an officer and true hero; all the noble feelings of a genuine man, and richly deserves the eulogium pronounced upon him by Strain in his report to the Secretary of the Navy.

The party were three days in regaining the paddle-box. As the men passed their old camps they would talk of the past, and contrast it with the present. Cheerfulness reigned throughout the little fleet of boats, and "Erin go Bragh," "The White Squall," and other naval songs, woke the echoes of the forest as they swept down the winding stream. On the way Strain sounded Maury as to the fact whether they had eaten buzzards. The latter could not deny it; but his disgust at the unclean bird returning with a supply of food, he felt some apology necessary, and replied: "Yes, we did eat them, but perhaps you are not aware there is a great difference between the cock and hen. The one you killed, and we tried to eat and could not, was a cock, and they are very strong. Besides, after all, when men are in a starving condition, a buzzard is better than a turkey, for living on animal food, it is necessarily more nutritious." A hearty laugh exploded the excuse, and no after-defense was made of buzzards.

As they approached the paddle-box, Strain wished to hoist the American ensign, and asked if the one they started with had been preserved. They answered yes. McGinness had been intrusted with it, and had carried it to the last. The only emblem of their nationality that remained to them, he had wrapped it round his breast, and though weapons, haversacks, and blankets had been thrown away, he would never part with it. Wounded feet that needed bandaging, and ulcerated limbs, and tattered garments, could not induce a man to devote that cherished symbol to his own use. Without

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reflection Strain ordered McGinness to place it in his boat. The poor fellow hung back a moment, and cast such an appealing look to Strain, that the latter asked him what was the matter. His eyes instantly filled with tears, and he replied: "Captain, I have never parted with this ensign a single instant since you trusted it to my care on the Atlantic coast, and don't take it from me now." Touched by the noble devotion of the man, he replied: "By no means, my brave fellow, shall it be taken from you; display it yourself." His face beamed a smile of thankfulness, and unbinding it with his skeleton hand from the rags that but hardly covered him, he gave it, tattered and torn, to the wind, and three cheers went up from the little fleet. There is a whole poem in this little incident. That flag had been displayed when they marched from the beach at Caledonia Bay, it was now unrolled to announce their deliverance. Once more only was it used, and then to shroud the coffin of one of their number.

Vermilyea never rallied, and died soon after their arrival at Yavisa. On the 20th the party reached the Virago. The men were quartered on shore at their own request, and because Strain thought that they would recover much sooner on land than in the confined air of a ship. As soon as he had got them well established he took an open boat, some forty feet long, and three and a half feet wide, and started for Panama, ninety miles distant, in order to put himself in communication with Captain Hollins, and obtain funds to meet his expenses. Taking mules he proceeded across the Isthmus to Aspinwall, where the Cyane lay. The most touching scene followed his arrival on board, for he had long ago been given up as dead. Without stopping to obtain the rest and quiet he so much needed, he returned to Panama, engaged a sloop, and set sail for Palma, where he had left his party. He found all doing well except Boggs, who was evidently sinking. Strain's presence roused him for awhile, and he listened attentively to a letter which the former had brought him. He, however, could not rally.

The next day they arrived at Panama, and Mr. Boggs, after giving some directions respecting his affairs, quietly sunk away. Strain then hastened his departure for Aspinwall, and on the 25th of April reported himself and party on board the Cyane, which ten minutes afterward flung her canvas to the wind, and was sweeping out toward the Atlantic.

The journal of the intermediate space I have thus briefly passed over is full of interest, and is necessary to the completion of the expedition, but the length of the article has compelled me to omit it in this place. I will only insert the closing portion of Lieutenant Strain's report to the Secretary of the Navy, in order to do justice

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764 to the brave men who composed this ill-fated expedition, in which one-third of those who composed it died from starvation, or from the food they were compelled to resort to in their distress. Says the report:

"This, Sir, terminates the narrative of the United States Expedition to the Isthmus of Darien, an expedition without brilliancy, because without success, and whose reputation depends, in a high degree, upon the fact that it has only disproved a magnificent preconceived theory, whose rise and progress will merit an especial reference in the brief resumé which I propose to append to the narrative.

"In concluding my narrative I would most respectfully call your attention to the subordination and general good conduct of those employed upon the expedition. Greater difficulties, more intense physical suffering, and more discouraging circumstances, have seldom been encountered, and have never, I am assured, been met with greater equanimity, good-nature, and quiet endurance. Although suffering for long periods from scarcity of food, and even perishing for want of it, there was, I am happy to state, developed none of those humiliating instances of selfishness which have so frequently distinguished periods of great distress. I am also happy in being able to report to you that the officers and seamen under my command adopted, and with apparent willingness, a principle of action which was suggested to them at an early period in the journey of the expedition, and that those who survived have nothing to regret or blush for.

"In having the services of passed midshipman W. T. Truxton, 1st assistant-engineer, Lt. Maury, and midshipman H. M. Garland, I was especially fortunate, and to these officers I would respectfully direct the attention of the Department.

"Mr. Truxton, while I was present, was an able and cheerful assistant, and while I was absent he sustained nobly the responsibility which his fearful position imposed upon him. Mr. Maury owing to his physical endurance, which surpassed that of any member of the party, was enabled to render to the weak and debilitated assistance which entitles him to their and my gratitude, and I feel assured that, even in a profession where chivalry and generosity are characteristic, that few would have deserved so much the high compliment which was paid to him by Mr. Truxton, when making to me his verbal report of the events which occurred in the main body of the party during my absence.

"'Maury,' he said, 'is the only man in the whole circle of my acquaintance, who could have endured so much privation, and passed through so many trials, without displaying a single instance of selfishness.' For my own part, acquainted as I am with all the circumstances, I am at a loss which to prefer, the magnanimity of Mr. Truxton, or the deportment of Mr. Maury, who richly deserved this handsome compliment from his immediate commanding officer, whose own conduct was so deserving of eulogium.

[Probably there never was an instance in which an officer, while bestowing upon another the highest yet most richly-deserved eulogy that could be pronounced, unconsciously and unintentionally paid so high a tribute to his own character. The reader will be pleased to know that at the request of the Secretary of the Navy, the gallant Lieutenant Forsyth, mentioned at the close of the report, has been promoted to the command of a ship—a reward well merited.]

"Mr. Garland suffered exceedingly in his own person, but was at all times ready and willing to afford every assistance compatible with his own state of health, as I can testify, and as is fully set forth in the report of Mr. Truxton, which will be found in the appendix.

"You, Sir, are already aware of the assistance rendered to my party by the officers and crew of Her Britannic Majesty's steam-sloop Virago, which, pending the action of the Government, I recognized in a letter to Commander Edward Marshal, R. N., which has already been published.

"You, Sir, have already informed me that the thanks of the Navy Department have been communicated to those officers and seamen, and any additional national action which might be taken to call the attention of H. M. Majesty's Government to the generous and chivalrous conduct of Lieutenant W. C. Forsyth, Assistant-surgeon William Ross, Paymaster W. H. Hills (R. Navy), and Mr. W. C. Bennett, Civil Engineer, will be most gratefully received by my party and myself. The foregoing narrative will explain the extent of service which those, gentlemen, and certain seamen of the Virago, rendered us at no small personal risk.

"I would also respectfully call the attention of the Department to the fact that my entire party were transported on the Panama Railroad free of charge, I having crossed the Isthmus at that point three times, and that upon all occasions we received from Colonel Totten, the Superintendent, Messrs. Monroe, Green, Baldwin, and the various other employés of that Company the kindest possible attention."

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69 judiciously mixing hot ashes with damp earth, wherein the wood is manipulated until it becomes sufficiently supple for the required purpose. It is then bent round the axe head until the two flat sides meet, when they are firmly lashed together by cord, combined with a good plaster of prepared gum. Although this is all the fixing that these impliments [sic] receive, it is wonderful how they remain in the haft; a novice in the matter reading this discription [sic], would be inclined to imagine that the axe head so fixed would fly off almost at the first half-dozen strokes, but it is not so; for many and many a canoe has been cut with these instruments, without their becoming the least loose even, and when the blunt edge is taken into consideration, it will be quite palpable how enormous must be the labour, and how numerous must be the blows required, to release a sheet of bark, large enough for a canoe, from a tree. As a matter of course now and then these implements will become loose in the middle of some operation, but what of that; even an American axe will get the haft broken occasionally. Ere the advent of Europeans these primitive axes were the only cutting tools the aborigines possessed, unless sharp flint-scales and broken mussel shells can be classed under that head.

The natives hailed the European tomahawk on its first introduction as the greatest boon which was ever conferred on their savage lot; and to hear, as we have done, an old aborigine, even at this day, describing the sensation caused by the appearance of the first amongst his tribe, is of the richest. The news of the appearance of this most wonderful weapon spread far and wide in very short time, and


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70 great was the aboriginal muster in consequence. Friendly tribes from the remoter districts, flocked into the main camping ground, and single families from the furthermost nooks and corners joined the crowd, all intent upon viewing this marvellous axe; and when it was produced to their astonished gaze, much ejaculation and clucking with the tongue ensued. Each one who had the pleasure of having it in his hand, with glistening eye and radiant countenance, said "Tumoo Talko;" and each one who was permitted the privilege of testing its cutting powers, ejaculated "Nga loorongandoo tumoo talko." As a natural consequence, every one wished to become the owner of this Talko patchic, so that there came very nearly being a sanguinary conflict over the matter; indeed it was only a universal promise to loan it on every canoe-cutting occasion that kept the peace and good fellowship that had existed in these tribes for ever so many generations, from being summarily terminated on the spot.

Of fibre plants there are three, which are utilised by the aborigines in the manufacture of twine and cord. The Kumpung (Typha Muellera) root, furnishes the fibre most commonly employed in making the thread from which waist-belts, bow-bands, and bags of all sorts and sizes are netted. The larger sized Mockoor Mockoor (bags), are used for carrying their various belongings from camp to camp, whilst the smaller ones take the place of the pockets of civilisation. Each male is provided with one of the latter, which is carried over the point of the shoulder, or round


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71 the neck as the fancy of the wearer inclines. This fibre is procured after a very simple and primitive fashion, thus:—After the root is cooked (it produces food as well as fibre), it is not cut up into short sections for convenience in eating, as doing so would render the fibre comparatively worthless by reason of its shortness; therefore each root is taken separately, the skin peeled off. and the remainder, consisting of both farina and fibre, is twisted up into a knot, often being larger than a good sized fist, and these knots are crammed into the mouths agape for their reception—most ludicrously. Sometimes both hands are required in the performance of this feat. When one of these immense mouthfuls has been masticated sufficiently to extract all the farina, the residue, which is the fibre, is rejected in the shape of a small knot of beautiful white tow. These knots of tow, as they are formed, are carefully packed away in bags, which are then utilised as pillows, until the time comes round for twine making. When about to make twine, these tow knots are steeped in water for twelve hours, which effectually softens any starchy matter they may contain. They are then teased out and scraped with mussel shells, until they are perfectly cleansed. The clean flax is then tied up into small neat hanks, and is ready for the thread makers' operations.

When we consider that these aborigines do not possess any appliances other than those furnished by Dame Nature, it is truly wonderful how deft they are in the making of cord and twine. They make these of sizes varying from the thickness of our clothes lines, down to the very thinnest twine. Whatever the size may be, the cord or twine in all cases consists of two plies or strands only;


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72 and the most singular thing about it is, that both strands are twisted at one time, and as the hand is drawn back from twisting them, the retrograde action twines them together into the finished cord. The work is done on the bare thigh, thus:—Two flax hanks are loosened out, the ends of which are held by the left hand; the rest is then stretched out over the thigh, and kept apart by one of the fingers of the hand holding the ends; the palm of the right hand is now moistened, and placed over the flax on the thigh, when it is rubbed sharply towards the knee. By this action both of the flax hanks are twisted into hard threads. The finger which had kept the hanks apart is now withdrawn, and the right hand is drawn back with a sharp jerk, which results in the two threads being firmly twined together into a neat cord, so much of them at least as the palm covers. The end of the shortest, hank (they always commence with a long and a short hank), is now teased out, and the end of another hank is mixed with it, and the two rubbing actions are again performed with a like result. So it continues, two rubs and a join alternately.

This process they will continue hour after hour, until the thigh becomes quite painful to the slightest touch. It is then thrown aside until the thigh returns to its normal condition.

The Fibre Rush is the next plant from which they procure flax. This plant is cut as close to the ground as possible, so that the fibre may be of a fair length. It is tied into bundles of about six inches diameter, after which it is soaked in water for twenty-four hours. After the soaking has been effected, it is placed in an oven and baked for four


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73 hours. It is then in a fit condition for the next process,, which is scraping. This is done by means of mussel shells, with the view of removing all the husk and pithy matter. Whilst the scraping is in progress the rushes are continually being dipped into water, the softening influence of which, aids materially in the proper cleansing of the flax. When it is quite finished it is laid on the grass to dry, which it soon does, as it is spread out in small parcels, each parcel being merely sufficient to form one of the neat hanks of the correct size required in the manufacture of the cord or twine they may have in view. When dry it is made into the hanks, and stored away for future use.

From this fibre fishing lines and nets are made, as also nets for taking ducks. It makes a most serviceable netting twine, having the power to resist the rotting influence of water to a great extent; in fact, it is superior in that particular to the common netting twine of commerce, which we have proved on more than one occasion.

The next and last of their cord-making plants is the giant mallow. The fibre from this plant is of a much coarser nature than those already described; therefore it is only employed for making very thick cord, which is afterwards worked up Into nets for capturing emus. The process of separating this fibre from the plant is the same as that adopted in the case of that derived from the rush, with this one difference—After the mallow is taken out of the oven it is well bruised with heavy clubs previous to its maceration and scraping.

The emu nets made from the cord which is manufactured out of the mallow fibre are frequently from eighty to one


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74 hundred yards long, the mesh being six inches wide. When completed it looks exactly similar to our sheep nets, and very nearly as strong. The following is the manner of their application in enmeshing emus:—

The locality of a drove of emus is noted, and such natural features as the country in the vicinity presents (such as the near convergence of a lagoon and lake, or a river and a lagoon) are utilised for side or guiding lines to the net, the latter being fixed at the nearest point of their convergence. As a matter of course, in all cases the ground between the converging side lines at the point selected for the fixing of the net must be narrow enough to be spanned thereby. The net is firmly fixed in position by means of good stout stakes. When all is in readiness several of the elderly natives hide themselves in the long grass at each end, whilst the younger members of the tribe stretch themselves out in two lines having the form of a with the apex cut off, the narrow opening of this mutilated  fitting on to the natural converging lines. Previous to these lines being formed scouts, warily taking advantage of all the inequalities offered by tree and bush, stealthily creep round the unsuspecting emus. When their purpose has been achieved they await in ambush for the preconcerted signal to startle the game towards the net prepared for their reception. The signal being given, the scouts rise from their concealment simultaneously, and with shout and gesture so frighten the gigantic birds that they start away with the velocity of a locomotive engine, the thuds from their great feet almost making the very ground to tremble. If it so happen that the birds take off in the desired


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75 no word is spoken. The scouts merely keep following them up as fast as possible. If, however, the game should swerve from the right line, then those whose side they are approaching show themselves, and if that should not turn them then shouting and gesticulating are resorted to, which in mos [sic] cases have the desired effect. Sometimes, though, the effect is greater than is desired. In this case the natives forming the other line show themselves, whilst now the panting scouts coming up behind make as much noise as their labouring lungs will allow them. When the birds have got within the water lines the whole force in the field, with the exception of those lying in wait at the net, rush madly on with the noise of a pack of demons let loose, which causes the emus to put their best feet foremost until they run blindly into the net, when the old savages waiting to that end rush forward with a joy (which it is only given to real savages to know) and club the poor enmeshed birds, and it is but seldom that any escape out of the toils to warn their fellow emus of the fate to which they are all liable if due care and unwearied watchfulness be not continually exercised.

As many as a dozen emus are frequently taken at one time in this manner, when, of course, there is nothing but feasting and riot thought of in the camp for days, or as long as their supply Lists, or until it becomes putrid, which is not by any means an uncommon result after hunting expeditions which have been successful.


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76 CHAPTER IX.

OF DUCK NETS, THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND METHOD OF APPLICATION; FISHING NETS, WITH THEIR USES ILLUSTRATED; WEIRS FOR TRAPPING FISH; HOW CONSTRUCTED, AND OF WHAT UTILITY.

Duck nets are usually one hundred yards long by two yards broad, the mesh being four inches wide. In making these nets the aborigines do not use a gauge, as is usual with Europeans. They simply judge of the size by the finger and thumb. The knot, however, is precisely similar to the one which European net-makers use. The meshes are as regular in size as though a gauge had been employed, and the finished net is as uniform throughout its length, and quite as strong as those made by men whose sole occupation is that of net-making.

Fishing nets are about the same length usually as those for catching ducks, but they are not so wide, being only four feet in width. The mesh, too, is different, being only three inches wide. The same kind of twine is used for making both nets. Nets for taking crawfish are only ten feet long, with a width of six feet, the mesh being three quarters of an inch wide. These nets are made by the women always, it being deemed beneath the dignity of aboriginal manhood to make nets to catch such insignificant game as crawfish. The women also make all the bags, waist belts, and brow bands, no matter whether they are to be worn by the nobler animal or not. The long nets, however, are made entirely by the men—that is to say, in every particular, with the exception of preparing the flax, that


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 Isaiah, 1i. The Red Sea an image of the Redemption. Ut sciatis quod filius hominis habet potestatem remittendi peccata, tibi dico: Surge. God, wishing to show that He could form a people holy with an invisible holiness, and fill them with an eternal glory, made visible things. As nature is an image of grace. He has done in the bounties of nature what He would do in those of grace, in order that we might judge that He could make the invisible, since He made the visible excellently.

Therefore He saved this people from the deluge; He has raised them up from Abraham, redeemed them from their enemies, and set them at rest.

The object of God was not to save them from the deluge, and raise up a whole people from Abraham, only in order to bring them into a rich land.

And even grace is only the type of glory, for it is not the ultimate end. It has been symbolised by the law, and itself symbolises [glory]. But it is the type of it, and the origin or cause.

The ordinary life of men is like that of the saints. They all seek their satisfaction, and differ only in the object in which they place it; they call those their enemies who hinder them, &c. God has then shown the power which He has of giving invisible blessings, by that which He has shown Himself to have over things visible.

Types.—God, wishing to form for Himself an holy people, whom He should separate from all other nations, whom He should deliver from their enemies and should put into a place of rest, has promised to do so, and has foretold by His prophets the time and the manner of His coming. And yet, to confirm the hope of His elect. He has made them see it in an image through all time, without leaving them devoid of assurances of His power and of His will to save them. For, at the creation of man, Adam was the witness

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 and guardian of the promise of a Saviour, who should be born of woman, when men were still so near the creation that they could not have forgotten their creation and their fall. When those who had seen Adam were no longer in the world, God sent Noah whom He saved, and drowned the whole earth by a miracle which sufficiently indicated the power which He had to save the world, and the will which He had to do so, and to raise up from the seed of woman Him whom He had promised. This miracle was enough to confirm the hope of men.

The memory of the deluge being so fresh among men, while Noah was still alive, God made promises to Abraham, and, while Shem was still living, sent Moses, &c. …

Types.—God, willing to deprive His own of perishable blessings, created the Jewish people in order to show that this was not owing to lack of power.

The Synagogue did not perish, because it was a type. But because it was only a type, it fell into servitude. The type existed till the truth came, in order that the Church should be always visible, either in the sign which promised it, or in substance.

That the law was figurative.

Two errors: 1. To take everything literally. 2. To take everything spiritually.

To speak against too greatly figurative language.

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 only those who are already persuaded. These are like the Apocalyptics. But the difference is that they have none which are certain, so that nothing is so unjust as to claim that theirs are as well founded as some of ours; for they have none so demonstrative as some of ours. The comparison is unfair. We must not put on the same level, and confound things, because they seem to agree in one point, while they are so different in another. The clearness in divine things requires us to revere the obscurities in them.

[It is like men, who employ a certain obscure language among themselves. Those who should not understand it, would understand only a foolish meaning.]

Extravagances of the Apocalyptics, Preadamites, Millenarians, &c.—He who would base extravagant opinions on Scripture, will, for example, base them on this. It is said that “this generation shall not pass till all these things be fulfilled.” Upon that I will say that after that generation will come another generation, and so on ever in succession.

Solomon and the King are spoken of in the second book of Chronicles, as if they were two different persons. I will say that they were two.

Particular Types.—A double law, double tables of the law, a double temple, a double captivity.

Types.—The prophets prophesied by symbols of a girdle, a beard and burnt hair, &c.

Difference between dinner and supper.

In God the word does not differ from the intention, for He is true; nor the word from the effect, for He is powerful; nor the means from the effect, for He is wise. Bern., ''ult. sermo in Missam.''

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10 would be in darkness. Lord! what a joke! (gets )

Joke! And me with the sack! Pretty idea of a joke you've got, I don't think.

Hark!

(going towards door). That's him. That's the Sergeant-Major. (He unlocks door, back.)

(removes chess-board). Wonder what yam he's got for us to-night. (Places chess-board on piano.)

(goes up right, busies himself putting the other armchair nearer fire, etc). Don't let the door slam, John!

(at the door). Slip in quick! It's as much as I can do to hold it against the wind.

Awful! Awful! (Busy taking off his cloak, etc.) And a mile up the road—by the cemetery—it's worse. Enough to blow the hair off your head.

. Give me your stick. If 'twasn't I knew what a welcome I'd get—— (preceding him into the room). Sergeant-Major Morris! . Tut! tut! So cold you must be! Come to the fire; do'ee, now.

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