text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/86

82 is eased on to the material, as is often the case. The method is shown in Illustration 131.) [sic]

RUNNING STITCHES are shorter than bastings. The spaces and stitches are of equal length. They are used on seams that do not require the firmness of machine or backstitching. (Ill. 132.)

THE BACKSTITCH is made by taking up a short stitch back on the upper side and a longer one forward on the under side of the material, bringing the needle out a space in advance. Insert the needle to meet the last stitch, passing it under the material and out again a space in advance of the last stitch taken. (Ill. 133.)

Fasten by making two or three stitches over the one last made. The backstitch is used on seams requiring strength and firmness.

THE HALF-BACKSTITCH is made in the same manner as the backstitch, except that it is taken halfway back instead of all the way, leaving a small space between each stitch on the upper side. (Ill. 134.)

THE COMBINATION STITCH consists of one backstitch and two or more small running stitches. It is fastened like the backstitch. Illustration 135 shows a combination stitch with one backstitch and two running stitches. It is used on seams requiring less strength than the backstitch.

OVERCASTING is a slanting stitch used to keep raw edges from raveling. (Ill. 136.) In taking the stitch the needle should always point toward the left shoulder. Hold the material loosely in the left hand. Do not use a knot, but turn the end of the thread to the left and take the first two stitches over it. Make the stitches about one-eighth of an inch apart and one-eighth of an inch deep.

Keep the spaces between the stitches even and slant all the stitches in the same direction. Before overcasting be sure that the edges are trimmed off evenly. In overcasting a bias seam, begin at the broad part of the piece and work toward the narrow part, to prevent its raveling while you are working on it.

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/86


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/87

Rh

OVERHANDING, top, or oversewing, as it is sometimes called, is used to join folded edges or selvedges. (Ill. 137.) Baste the pieces with the folds or selvedges exactly even and sew with close stitches over and over the edges, taking up as few threads as possible, so that when finished the seam will be smooth and flat and not form an awkward ridge or cord on the wrong side of the garment.

CATCH-STITCH, sometimes called cat-stitch, is a cross-stitch used to hold down seam edges. It is the preferred finish for the seams of flannel garments, for it does away with the clumsiness of a French or felled seam, takes the place of overcasting and prevents raveling.

Place the edges together and run a seam, taking an occasional backstitch. Trim off one edge close to the line of sewing and press the other edge flatly over it, holding the work as shown in Illustration 138.

Make a knot and insert the needle under the edge at the lower left corner, cross the edge and take a small stitch a few threads to the right. Cross back again and insert the needle, taking a similar stitch through all the thicknesses of the material.

Always point the needle to the left and make the cross-stitches encase the raw edges. The stitch is done from left to right. If preferred, these seams may be pressed open and catch stitched, working the stitches over the raw edge at each side of the seam, thus holding both down as shown in Illustration 139.

A quicker method of catch-stitching is shown in Illustration 140. This stitch has not the strength of the first method and is only used in millinery and in dressmaking where the work is concealed. This style of catch-stitching is done from right to left.

THE SLANT HEMMING STITCH is used to hold in place hems, facings, fells, etc. Each stitch slants on both the right and wrong side of the material. (Ill. 141.) Place the hem over the forefinger and under the middle finger of the left hand and hold it down with the thumb. Begin at the right hand and insert the needle through the fold leaving a short end of the thread to be caught under the stitches.

Pointing the needle toward the left shoulder take a slanting stitch, taking up one or two threads of the material and the fold of the hem. At the end of the hem fasten the thread by taking two or three stitches on top of each other.

If a new thread is needed start as at the beginning, tucking both the ends of the new and old threads under the fold of the hem and secure them with the hemming stitches.

In hemming train the eye to keep the stitches even and true, take very small, almost

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/87


text:
Page:Biographies of Scientific Men.djvu/83

 sworn in; but these were of little avail against the large numbers of the disturbers of the peace. The spirit of rebellion continued to spread, much to the terror and distress of the whole town. While the work of destruction was going on, cries such as "Long live the King and the Constitution in Church and State," "Down with all abettors of the French Revolution," could be continually heard. The devastation went on until Sunday afternoon, when information was received that troops were approaching Birmingham. About ten o'clock three troops of the 15th Regiment of Dragoons from Nottingham, attended by magistrates, entered the town and halted at the Swan Inn. The arrival of the military reassured the inhabitants and eventually restored order.

In the meantime Priestley, on leaving his home at Fair Hill, only went to neighbouring houses a little distance, but hearing that the rioters were advancing, went to Heath Forge, five miles from Dudley. Here he considered he was safe, but news reached him that he was pursued; in consequence he proceeded to Kidderminster; here, again, he proved to be too near his enemies, so Worcester was his next halting-place, and from thence he proceeded to London, which he reached on 18th July 1791.

To the man of science the destruction of his library was the greatest grief. The manuscripts which he most deplored were the following:—


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/88

84 invisible stitches on the right side and stitches of an even length on the wrong side. Don't draw the thread tight, or leave it loose, and always use a fine needle and thread.

THE STRAIGHT HEMMING STITCH is used where an edge is to be held close with stitches that should show as little as possible. Start it the same way as the slanting hemming stitch.

Insert the needle into the material as close to where you brought the thread through as possible, bringing the needle up in a slanting position under the hem and bringing it out through the fold of the hem close to the edge. (Ill. 142.) This is the stitch that is preferred by tailors for felling linings in coats, etc., for the stitches show less than in the slanting stitch.

BLIND HEMMING is used when an invisible sewing is required to hold hems or facings on silk or wool. It is done more quickly than slip-stitching and is just as invisible on the right side of the garment. Only take up part of the thread in the material and insert the needle in a fold of the hem using a rather long slanting stitch between the stitches. (Ill. 143.) It is not a strong sewing but in many cases is used on silk and wool.

SLIP-STITCHING is used when invisible sewing is required for holding hems, facings, trimmings, etc. It is not a strong sewing, but it is one of the most valuable stitches for finishing work in silk or wool. In this stitch it is necessary to take up only part of the thread in the material. This is what makes it invisible on the right side. The stitches should be taken as far apart as will hold the edge in place. Let the needle slip through the under side of the fold of the hem between the stitches and bring it out through the crease of the fold. (Ill. 144.) That is why it is called the slip-stitch.

LOOSE FRENCH TACKS. They are made by taking a small stitch in the garment and one in the portion which is to be tacked to the garment, leaving a half-inch or more of thread between. Pass the needle back and forth once more, putting it into the same place, and then work several loose buttonhole-stitches back over the three strands of the silk thread. (Ill. 145.)

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/88


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/89

Rh TAILORS' TACKS are used in cutting out garments to mark seams, perforations, etc. They are used to give a clean exact line for the sewing. When laying out the pattern on the material cut the pieces, and then with a double thread mark all the perforations as directed in the pattern instructions. Baste through both thicknesses of the cloth, alternating one long and one short stitch. Leave the long stitches loose enough to form a loop under which a finger can be passed. (Ill. 146.) Then cut every long stitch and separate the two pieces, cutting the threads that still hold them together as you go along. There will then be enough stitches in each piece to indicate the sewing line plainly and both pieces will be marked exactly alike. For waists or coats, or for any curved outline, the tack stitches should be quite short.

In using tailors' tacks for marking long tucks or plaits in skirts, etc., the loose stitch may be an inch and a half long and not left in a loop, its length supplying the necessary thread for pulling through between the two pieces of cloth.

Ill. 146. Tailors' Tacks

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/89


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/152

, surprise and disappointment were so great for a few seconds after the discovery that the best part of the party—the ice cream—was gone, that no one knew what to say. Then Flossie burst out with:

"Are you sure, Dinah? Maybe it fell off the porch."

"Deed an' it didn't, honey gal. I done looked eberywhar fo' dat freezer, an' it's jest gone complete."

"Maybe Snap took it," suggested Freddie, as a last hope. "Once he took my book and hid it. Snap, did you take the ice cream?"

Snap barked and wagged his tail, looking rather pained at being asked such a question.

"No, indeedy. Snap couldn't take off a big freezer like dat," declared Dinah. "It wasn't Snap."

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/152


text:
Page:Biographies of Scientific Men.djvu/84

54 {|
 * 1.
 * Diaries from 1752.
 * 2.
 * Several commonplace books containing notes.
 * 3.
 * Register of philosophical experiments and hints for new ones.
 * 4.
 * Sermons, prayers, etc.
 * 5.
 * Notes and a paraphrase on the whole of the New Testament excepting Revelation.
 * 6.
 * A new translation of the Psalms.
 * 7.
 * Memoirs of his own life, to be published after his death.
 * 8.
 * Illustration of Hartley's doctrine of Association of Ideas, and further observations on the human mind.
 * }
 * 7.
 * Memoirs of his own life, to be published after his death.
 * 8.
 * Illustration of Hartley's doctrine of Association of Ideas, and further observations on the human mind.
 * }
 * Illustration of Hartley's doctrine of Association of Ideas, and further observations on the human mind.
 * }

Concerning the Priestley riots Gillray produced an etching in which Priestley was grossly lampooned. The sympathy of Priestley and his friends for the French Revolutionists became their greatest crime in the eyes of their enemies, and the dinner on 14th July was ostensibly made the occasion of the anti-Jacobin outbreak. "By far the greatest crime of all which Dr Priestley and the 'Socinians' had committed," says Mr Dent, "was that of sympathizing with the lovers of freedom who had just succeeded in overturning the throne of Louis XVI. in France. This sympathy Gillray, the caricaturist, turned to account in a bitterly hostile and infamously libellous


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/153

Rh "Then who could it have been?" asked Nan. Everyone had stopped eating while this talk went on. "Who could have taken our ice cream?"

"Dat's what I don't know, honey," answered the colored cook. "Dat's why I comed in heah to tell yo' mamma. I 'spects, Mrs. Bobbsey, dat we'd better phonograph fo' de police."

"Phonograph—I guess you mean telephone; don't you, Dinah?" asked Mrs. Bobbsey, with a smile.

"Yes'm, dat's what I done mean. Or else maybe we kin send mah man Sam down to de Station house fo' 'em."

"No, I had better telephone, in case it is necessary. But perhaps I had better take a look out there. Perhaps the man from the store may have set the cream off to one side."

"No'm, he didn't do dat. I took p'ticlar notice where he set it. Dere's a wet ring-mark on de porch where de freezer was, 'count of de salty water leakin' out. An' dat wet ringmark am all dat's left ob de cream, dar now!" and Dinah, standing with her hands on her

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/153


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/90

FRENCH SEAM is a double seam used to encase raw seam edges. Baste the two edges evenly together on the right side of the garment, and sew close to the edge. (Ill. 147.) Trim off the ravelings and turn the wrong side of the garment toward you, creasing at the seam. Make the second sewing a sufficient depth to cover the raw edges. (Ill. 147.) This seam is used for thin materials and for dainty garments where it is not desirable to show stitching on the right side. It should be used on edges that are easily turned.

A TURNED-IN FRENCH SEAM is used when the lines of a garment are such that this seam is more practical than the regular French seam. It is used on edges that are very much curved, and on edges that have been basted at the finished sewing line and can be finished more easily this way. Make the usual plain seam on the wrong side of the garment.

Turn in both edges of the seam toward each other, turning each side the same amount. (Ill. 148.) Baste the edges together and then stitch them or finish them by top-stitching. (Chapter 16, page 83.)

A FELL FRENCH SEAM is made with

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/90


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/154

140 hips, looked at the startled children, whose mouths were just ready for the ice cream.

"Well, I'm going to have a look, anyhow," said Bert. "Come on, Charley. Maybe, after all, that Danny Rugg is up to some of his tricks."

"I'm with you, Bert!" cried Charley. "But we ought to have some sort of a light. It's dark out."

"I'll get my little pocket electric light," said Bert. He had one, and it gave a good light. He went to his room for it.

Flossie and Freddie did not know what to do. That their lovely party should be spoiled by the missing ice cream seemed too bad to be true.

"Mamma, if we can't find this ice cream, can't we buy more?" Flossie wanted to know. "The girls just want some—so bad!"

"And the boys, too," added Freddie.

"Oh, I guess we'll manage to get some for you, if we can't find this," answered Mrs. Bobbsey. "We may have to wait a little while for it, though."

"Well, we'll have a look," said Bert, as he

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/154


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/155

Rh came down with his little electric lamp. Some of his own particular chums, including Charley Mason, followed him out to the back porch, Dinah was in her kitchen, looking behind tables, under the sink, in the pantry and all about, hoping that, somehow or other, the freezer might have gotten in there. But it was not to be found.

"Well, here's where it stood," said Bert, as he looked at the round, wet mark on the porch where the freezer had set. He flashed his torch on it, and then cried out:

"And look, boys, here are some spots of water that must have leaked from the wooden tub that holds the tin freezer. See, the water has dripped down on each step! This is the way they carried off our ice cream."

The others could see a trail of water drops leading from the stoop down the steps and along the stone walk at the side of the Bobbsey house.

"Now we can follow and see just where they took our cream!" cried Bert. "This is the way Indians used to trail the white settlers."

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/155


text:
Page:Biographies of Scientific Men.djvu/85

 print, representing the leading Jacobins of the day drinking 'a Birmingham toast' proposed by Dr Priestley. 'The—Head here!' i.e. in a Communion salver, which he holds aloft, himself drinking the toast from a chalice. The Jacobins are represented as early welcoming this toast. Sheridan pouring out a fresh glass of sherry, of which he has already emptied several bottles, is made to say, 'I'll pledge you that toast.' … Sir Cecil Wray, frugally drinking small beer, exclaims, 'O heavens! why, I would empty a Chelsea pensioners small-beer barrel in such a cause.' Fox, as chairman, with punch-bowl before him, cries, 'My soul and body, both upon the toast.' Horne Tooke, who sits next him, drinking gin, says, 'I have not drunk so glorious a toast since I was parson of Brentford'; while in the corner opposite Dr Priestley, his co-religionist and bosom friend Dr Theophilus Lindsey cries 'Amen! Amen!' as he drinks the toast in brandy. In the background are several cadaverous-looking pietists, supposed to represent Dr Priestley's congregation. The print is exceedingly vigorous in design and execution, but as full of venom as an etching from Gillray's needle could possibly be."

Seeing this etching, reminds one of many of the venomous, satirical, and revolting paintings of Antoine Wiertz in the Musée Wiertz in the Rue Vautier, Brussels (e.g. "Napoléon dans l'Enfer," "L'Enfant Brule," "L'Inhumation Précipitée," etc.).


text:
Page:Tensing Exercises.djvu/9

There is good in all systems of Physical Education, but there is more good in some than in others. Being more or less familiar with every system extant, I have no hesitancy in declaring in favor of a system that did more in six years than any other system or combination of systems did in thirty years. That is what this "Tensing" and "Resisting" system of exercises did for me, and I now publish it for the first time—as a system.

It is the most thorough, the most complete, the most satisfactory and the most fascinating of systems.

Notwithstanding all this, you will seriously mistake if you depend solely upon any system of exercises for the purpose of obtaining and retaining health while at the same time you disregard the laws of hygiene.

I have devoted these pages exclusively to my system of exercises, inasmuch as I have elsewhere endeavored to treat, quite fully, the important subjects of Eating, Drinking, Bathing, Breathing, Ventilation, Underwear, Insulation, Color of Clothing, etc., etc.

Assuming that you are interested in the all-around development, I take the liberty of suggesting that you procure my previously published series (covering the foregoing subjects)—six in number, as follows: Nos, 142, 149, 166, 185, 208, 213; only ten cents each.

All of these belong to the popular Spalding's Athletic Library Series, and may be obtained from any agent handling the "Spalding Athletic Goods"; or of any newsdealer, or may be ordered direct from the publishers, the American Sports Publishing Company, New York City, N. Y.

Vigorously yours,

EDWARD B. WARMAN.

title: Page:Tensing Exercises.djvu/9


text: Page:Tensing Exercises.djvu/10

title: Page:Tensing Exercises.djvu/10


text:
Page:Biographies of Scientific Men.djvu/86

 The reference to "The—Head" arises from the fact that in the centre of the table at that ever-memorable dinner of 14th July 1791, was a painting of the King, and on both sides a marble obelisk, the one representing French liberty breaking the fetters of despotism, and the other English liberty in its present enjoyment.

Such were the feelings against Priestley by his own countrymen, and as Carlyle says in his French Revolution—"did not iron Birmingham, shouting 'Church and King'—itself knew not why—burst out into rage, drunkenness and fire, and your Priestleys and the like dining there on the Bastille day get the maddest singeing—scandalous to consider!" The French, more tolerant, naturalized Priestley and other foreign friends of humanity; and in September 1792 he was elected a member of the Assemblée Nationale by the Orne Department in Normandy. He wisely declined the honour, as the guillotine was no respecter of persons—not even "the friends of humanity."

Priestley came to London, and although elected minister of a congregation at Hackney, he felt the insecurity of his position. He was boycotted by his scientific friends, by tradespeople, and his own servants feared to live under the same roof. Finally, he emigrated to the United States of America, where he landed in 1794. He settled at Northumberland, a quiet town on the banks of the Susquehanna in Pennsylvania; and with all his


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/156

142 "Let me come!" cried Freddie, hearing this. "I want to help hunt whoever took our ice cream."

"No, you'd better stay back there," said Bert.

"Why?" his little brother wanted to know.

"Because it might be—tramps—who have it, and there'd be trouble," said Bert.

"Wait until I get my cap pistol!" cried Freddie. "I can scare a tramp with that."

"No, you go back there, and stay in the house," went on Bert. "If we find tramps have it, we'll get a policeman."

"It might be that a tramp did steal up on the steps, and lift off the freezer," said Mrs. Bobbsey. "Bert, be careful," she called to her son, who set off in the darkness with his chums, flashing his electric light from time to time.

"I'll look out!" he called back.

For some distance it was easy to see which way the ice cream freezer had been carried, for there were the marks of the dripping water. Then these stopped about the middle of the sidewalk, and seemed to go over in the grass.

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/156


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/157

Rh "We can't see 'em now," spoke Charley. "That's too bad."

"Well, we'll keep on this way in a straight line," suggested Bert. "Maybe they took the freezer down back of our berry bushes to eat the cream."

"I hope they left some," said John Anderson, in a mournful sort of voice.

Hurrying on after Bert, the boys looked eagerly about in the darkness for a sign of the missing ice cream. There were not many chances of them finding it, for though Berts electric torch gave a brilliant light for a short distance, it was not very large.

"What's over there?" asked Charley, pausing and pointing to a patch of blackness.

"An old barn, that we used to use before we had our new one built," answered Bert. "Why?"

"Well, maybe they took the ice cream in there to eat it," went on Charley. "Is it open?"

"Yes, it's never locked. Say, we'll take a look in there, anyhow!" exclaimed Bert. "Come on, fellows!"

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/157


text:
Page:The Religion of Ancient Egypt.djvu/187

 English or French sentence written without it would be simply unintelligible to the ordinary English or French reader. I cannot therefore see what there is in the system of Egyptian writing which is to prevent the Maxims of Ptahhotep, written in the age of the Pyramids, or the tales in the Berlin papyri, written more than two thousand years before Christ, from being considered literature as truly as they would be if they were now written in English, French or Italian.

The Book of the Dead.

The majority of the manuscripts which have been recovered from the tombs contain chapters of the collection generally known under the title of the Book of the Dead. These chapters, though apparently handed down at first by tradition, were committed to writing at a very early period. The vignettes which are found on so many copies, and which represent the burial procession, suggested to Champollion the name of the "Funeral Ritual." Lepsius, however, pointed out the fact that the chapters are supposed to be recited by the deceased person himself in the nether world. M. de Rougé, though not objecting to the title "Book of the Dead," proposed by Lepsius as more appropriate, nevertheless defended the use of the term "Ritual" on the ground that many chapters contain prescriptions for parts of the funeral, and certain prayers are formally


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/158

144 He led the way, the others following. As they approached the big, deserted barn Frank Black exclaimed in a whisper:

"I see a light!"

"So do I!" added Will Evans.

"And it's moving around," spoke Charley Mason.

"It's them, all right," decided Bert. "The tramps who took our ice cream are in there, all right!"

"What makes you think they are tramps?" asked Will.

"Well, I'm not sure, of course," admitted Bert. "But we can soon tell. Come on!"

"Are you—are you going up there?" asked Charley.

"Sure! Why not? I think we can scare em away."

The other boys hesitated. Some of them were older than Bert, and when they saw that he was determined to go on, they made up their minds that they would not let him go alone.

"All right—go ahead—we're with you," said Charley.

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/158


text:
Page:Tensing Exercises.djvu/13

Rh

title: Page:Tensing Exercises.djvu/13


text:
Page:The Religion of Ancient Egypt.djvu/188

 mentioned as intended to be recited during the burial. Although the prayers are as a rule put into the mouth of the departed, they were certainly recited for him by those present. On the first vignette of the book, a priest is seen reading the formulary out of a book which he holds in his hands. And rubrics at the end of several chapters attach important advantages in the next world to the accomplishment of what has been prescribed in the foregoing text.

It is not only in papyrus rolls that the Book of the Dead has been preserved. Many of the chapters are inscribed upon coffins, mummies, sepulchral wrappings, statues and the walls of tombs. Tombs of the time of the twenty-sixth dynasty, like those of Bekenrenef or Petamonemapt, may be said to contain entire recensions of the book. The chambers of the latter of these tombs occupy together nearly an acre and a quarter of ground excavated in the rock, and every square inch of their high walls is covered with beautifully sculptured inscriptions from the Book of the Dead and other religious texts.

The Egyptian title of the work is, "Book of the peri em hru," three very simple words, perfectly unambiguous when taken singly, but by no means easy of explanation when taken together without a context. Peri signifies "coming forth," hru is day, and em is the preposition signifying "from," but susceptible, like the same preposition in many other languages, of


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/159

Rh Bert and the others advanced. As they walked on they could see the light in the barn more plainly. And, as they stopped for a moment they could hear voices talking in low tones.

"More than one," whispered Charley.

"Yes, three or four," said Bert.

They walked ahead again, when suddenly Charley stepped on a stick that broke with a loud snap. In an instant the light in the barn went out, and then could be heard the footsteps of several persons running away.

"There they are!" shouted Bert, dashing forward. "Come on, fellows! We'll get 'em now!"

"That's right!" cried Charley. "Come on, surround 'em!"

Of course this was all said for effect, as the boys had no idea of trying to capture the tramps, or whoever it was that had taken the ice cream. But Bert thought that they could scare the thieves away, for the latter could not tell, in the darkness, how many, nor who were after them.

Flashing his light, Bert dashed ahead,

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/159


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/160

146 by the others. Into the big barn they went, and, just as they entered the main part, they had a glimpse of someone running out of a side door.

"There they go!" cried Charley. "We can catch 'em!"

"No, let 'em go," advised Bert. "Here's our ice cream. Let's see if there's any left. If there is we'll take it back to the party. We might get into trouble if we went after those fellows."

By the gleam of the electric light they could all see the freezer of cream in the middle of the barn floor, near some upturned boxes. A hasty look showed that only a little had been taken out.

"There's plenty left!" said Bert. "We surprised 'em just in time. Now let's get back to the house."

It was rather a triumphant procession that went back to the home of the Bobbsey twins, carrying the recovered ice cream freezer. And such a shout of delight from Flossie, Freddie and the others as greeted the boys!

"Is there any left?" asked Freddie.

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/160


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/161

Rh "Plenty," said Bert.

"And did you catch the bad tramps?" Flossie wanted to know.

"They got away," her brother said. "But never mind, we scared them before they had a chance to eat much."

"I 'clar t' goodness sakes alive!" gasped Dinah, when she saw the ice cream freezer carried into her kitchen, "yo' am suttinly a smart boy, Massa Bert—dat's what yo' suah am!"

"Oh, well, the others helped me find it," said Bert, modestly.

As Dinah and Mrs. Bobbsey were dishing out the cream, the colored cook uttered a cry.

"Look out!" she exclaimed. "Dere's suffin black in dere, Mrs. Bobbsey. Maybe it's a stone dem careless tramps put in. Wait 'till I gits it out."

With a long-handled spoon Dinah fished for the black thing, and got it. She put it in a dish, with a small portion of the ice cream, and when the latter had melted, Bert, who was inspecting the object, gave a cry of surprise.

"Why, it's a button—a coat button!" he exclaimed.

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/161


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/162

148 "A button? How in the world could that get in there?" asked his mother. "Unless you boys dropped it in when you were carrying the cream."

Bert and the other boys quickly looked at their coats. There were no buttons missing.

"An' it suah wasn't in when de cream come heah," said Dinah. "I knows, fo I took off de kiver an' looked in t' see how hard it were froze. Dat button got in since!"

"Yes, and I think I know how, too!" exclaimed Bert.

"How?" asked Freddie.

"It was dropped in by whoever took the freezer. They must have been eating the cream right out of the can, and maybe they dropped the button in. I'll save it."

"What for?" asked Nan, wonderingly.

"I may be able to find out by it, who took the freezer," went on Bert. "I'm going to look at the coats of all the fellows in school next week, and if I find one with the button like this missing, I'll know what to think."

"Be careful not to accuse anyone wrongly," cautioned his mother.

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/162


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/163

Rh Bert put the button carefully away, and the party guests were soon eating their ice cream, and discussing the disappearance of the freezer and the finding of it by the boys. Then with the playing of more games, and the singing of songs, the affair came to a close, and good-nights were said.

"We've had a lovely time!" said the boys and girls to Flossie and Freddie, as they left.

"Glad you did—come again," invited the small Bobbsey twins.

Even Snap seemed to have enjoyed himself. And when the house was settling down to quietness for the night, and when Dinah and Mrs. Bobbsey were picking up the dishes, the circus dog marched around like a soldier, with a stick for a gun, and one of the fancy caps, that came in the "surprise" packets, on his head.

When Bert went to bed that night he laid the button found in the ice cream where he would be sure to see it in the morning.

"I'm going to find out whose coat that came off of," he said to himself.

The little Bobbsey twins slept late the next

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/163


text:
Page:The Religion of Ancient Egypt.djvu/189

 a great variety of uses. I will not take up your time with a discussion of the matter, but will simply tell you that peri em hru most probably means "coming forth by day," and that the sense of this expression can only be gathered from a study of the contents of the book so entitled.

It is a very curious fact that, out of the many manuscripts which are extant, no two contain exactly the same chapters or follow exactly the same arrangement. The papyrus of Turin, the facsimile of which is published by Lepsius, contains 165 chapters; and it is the longest known. A very considerable number of chapters, however, which are found in other manuscripts, are not included in it. None of the copies therefore contains the entire collection of chapters. The date of the Turin papyrus is not known, but it certainly is not anterior to the twenty-sixth dynasty. The more ancient manuscripts contain much fewer chapters, and their order is quite different. The antiquity of the chapters in the long recensions is not at all inferior to that of those in the shortest recensions, and the chapters omitted by the Turin manuscript are as old as any. The oldest chapters of all are omitted. There is a great uniformity in the style and the grammatical forms of the language as compared with other productions of Egyptian literature, especially those more recent than the twelfth dynasty. Nothing can exceed the simplicity and the brevity of the sentences.


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/164

150 morning, and so did Nan, but Bert was up early.

"I'm going over to the barn, and see if I can tell by looking around it, how many were at our freezer," he said.

But there was nothing there to help him in his search. Some old boxes, placed in a sort of circle, showed where the ones who had taken the ice cream, had rested to eat it.

"They must have had spoons with them," said Bert to himself, as he looked about, "That shows they came all prepared to take our ice cream. So they must have known it was going to be here. Well, I'll see whose coat has a button missing."

It took Bert some days to look carefully at the coats of the various boys in school, who might have been guilty of taking the cream. For a time he had no luck, and then, one afternoon, as he noticed Danny Rugg wearing a coat he seldom had on, Bert walked slowly up to him, clasping the button, with his hand, in his pocket.

His heart beast fast as he noticed that from the middle of Danny's coat a button was gone.

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/164


text:
Page:The Religion of Ancient Egypt.djvu/190

 And yet the difficulties which a translator has to overcome are very great.

In the first place, the text is extremely corrupt. This unsatisfactory condition of the text is owing to different causes. The reasons which writers on Hebrew, Greek or Latin palaeography have enumerated for the purpose of accounting for mistakes in manuscripts, apply with much greater force to the funereal manuscripts of the Egyptians; for as these were not intended to be seen by any mortal eye, but to remain for ever undisturbed in the tomb, the unconscientious scribe had no such check upon his carelessness as if his work were liable to be subjected to the constant inspection of the living. But the most conscientious scribe might easily admit numerous errors. Many of our finest manuscripts in hieroglyphic characters are evidently copied from texts written in the cursive or, as it is called, the hieratic character. Many of the errors of the manuscripts are to be traced to a confusion between signs which resemble each other in hieratic but not in hieroglyphic writing.

Besides the errors of copyists, there are different readings, the origin of which is to be traced to the period during which the chapters were handed down by word of mouth only. There are copies which bear evidence that a critical choice has been made between the different readings of a passage; but the common practice was to admit the inconsistent readings into


text:
Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/165

Rh And a glance at the others showed Bert that they were just like the one found in the ice cream freezer.

"I see you've lost a button, Danny," said Bert, slowly.

"Hey?" exclaimed the bully, with a start.

"I see you've lost a button," repeated Bert.

"Yes, I guess it dropped off. Maybe it's home somewhere," said Danny.

"No, it isn't—it's here!" exclaimed Bert, suddenly holding the button out to him.

title: Page:Bobbsey Twins at School.djvu/165


text: The Bobbsey Twins at School/Chapter 14

title: The Bobbsey Twins at School/Chapter 14


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/91

Rh the usual plain seam on the wrong side of the garment. The edge that is toward you should be trimmed down to ⅛ of an inch width. Turn the other edge toward you ⅛ of an inch and bring it to the seam line. (Ill. 149.) Finish it with a hemming stitch, Illustration 149, or by machine, or with small running stitches.

A FLAT FELL OR STITCHED SEAM has one edge hemmed down covering the other raw edge. It is used principally for wash garments such as muslin underwear made in medium-weight materials, for flannels, tailored waists and working aprons.

Baste the seam edges together on the

wrong side of the garment and sew the seam with combination stitch. If the edges are bias, sew from the broad part of the piece to the narrow part to prevent the material from raveling and stretching.

Remove the bastings and trim the edge toward you close to the sewing line. (Ill. 150.) Turn the other edge flatly over it, pressing hard with the thumb nail. Make a narrow turn, baste and hem. (Ill. 150.) This seam can be stitched by machine if preferred.

A LAPPED FELL OR STITCHED SEAM is used on flannels, tailored waists or where there is no right or wrong side. Lap one edge of the seam over the other with the seam lines exactly over each other and baste through the seam lines. Trim off the ravelings from the edges and turn the edges under so that they meet. (Ill. 151.) The edge on each side may be sewed with a hemming stitch or by machine. (Ill. 151.)

A ROLLED SEAM is used in sheer materials where an unusually narrow joining is required, and the material is likely to ravel or fray. Hold the seam edges together and trim off all the ravelings. Begin at the right end and roll the edges tightly between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand keeping the edges rolled for about 1½ inch ahead of the sewing. Whip the roll very close together making the stitches come under the roll and not through it. Draw the thread tight. (Ill. 152.) This seam will form a small roll.

N TAILORED garments keep the cloth smooth at the seams and make the stitching as even as possible and press carefully.

PLAIN SLAMS PINKED—In plain seams of very closely woven material that does not fray or ravel, the edges of the seams may be simply notched or pinked, and pressed open. (Ill. 153.)

PLAIN SEAMS BOUND—Plain seams of jackets, cloaks and other garments made of heavy material that will fray should be bound with satin, silk or farmers' satin. This is cut in bias

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/91


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/386

366 place, and privileges as barons of the realm. They presented themselves before the council, protesting against the faction by whom the King was governed; and saying that they had come thus into the city 'to do no displeasure to any person,' but to invite the nobility to put an end to a shameful scandal.

The Queen was at Holyrood. It was expected every moment that she would set the Castle guns playing upon her husband's followers; and Dr Magnus, at the entreaty of the council, hastened down to anticipate the danger. He found the palace in confusion: dense throngs of men were arming and preparing their horses. He pushed his way into Margaret's presence, but she ordered him at once to be gone, and not to meddle in matters of no concern to him. A moment after the heavy boom of a cannon told him that the order had been given. The shot was intended for the Douglases, but it was ill- aimed. Two tradesmen, a priest, and a woman were killed by it; and the mistake was more effective than the English minister in preventing a fresh experiment. All day the two parties lay watching one


text:
Page:The Religion of Ancient Egypt.djvu/191

 the text itself, the first being followed by the words ki t'et, "otherwise said." This practice is of the most remote antiquity. The different readings of the seventeenth chapter according to the Turin text are already found in the text of that chapter which Sir Gardner Wilkinson copied from the sarcophagus of a queen of the eleventh dynasty.

Some of these variants have unquestionably arisen from the difficulty of understanding the ancient texts. I have no doubt whatever that some of the chapters of the Book of the Dead were as obscure to Egyptians living under the eleventh dynasty as they are to ourselves. The Book of the Dead is mythological throughout, and the true sense of a mythology dies away with the stage of culture which has produced it. A critical collation of a sufficient number of copies of each chapter will in time restore the text to as accurate a standard as could be attained in the most flourishing days of the Egyptian empire. This revision of the text, which, for want of the requisite leisure, I was sorrowfully compelled to decline when it was proposed to me by Dr. Lepsius at the Congress of Orientalists in 1874, is now being actively conducted by a most competent scholar, M. Naville, of Geneva. The most accurate knowledge of the Egyptian vocabulary and grammar will, however, not suffice to pierce the obscurity arising from what M. de Rougé called symbols or allegories, which are in fact simply mythological allusions. The


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/387

1524.] another, each waiting to be attacked. At dusk Angus withdrew to Dalkeith, and amidst the glare of torches the Queen and the young King were seen sweeping up out of the palace, behind the stronger shelter of the Castle wall. Civil war appeared to be imminent; but, happily, civil wars are not always possible; and where a nation is to suffer, the passions of the nation must first be interested in the quarrel. The French and English factions were each of them strong; but neither was the French nor the English feeling so strong as to make a compromise impossible. Money and promises had been freely distributed by Francis. Angus hesitated at drawing the sword openly against his wife; and Margaret consented to be reconciled to him if he would agree to a divorce. Anxious for entire possession of Methuen, she contrived a plea that her first husband was alive at the time of her second marriage, which was therefore of no validity. The ecclesiastical courts accepted the extraordinary story as the ground of a suit; and the technical difficulties could be overcome the more easily, if the husband offered no opposition. Peace was


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/92

88 strips just a trifle wider than the depth of the seam after it is closed. Stitch the binding on the right side of the seam edge close to the edge, then baste it flat, covering the edge. Close the seam of the garment with bastings catching through both cloth and bindings. Then stitch.

A better way, requiring more labor, however, is to stitch the seam and press it open. After pressing, the seam will have spread at the edges, especially if it is curved, and the binding can be safely applied without any chance of pulling later.

Use a seam binding wide enough to cover the edge nicely. Fold the binding through the center and press it with a warm iron. Slip the binding over the edge of the seam with the binding a little easy so that there is no danger of drawing the edge. Sew the binding on with a running stitch or stitch it by machine, catching the edge of the binding on both sides of the seam edge. (Ill. 154.)

WHEN TRIMMING is to be applied over seams, the plain seam is used. It should be finished completely and pressed before the trimming is added.

JOINED SEAMS of garments in which the lining is cut like the outer pattern and stitched together, are finished by turning in the raw edges of the seams of both cloth and lining toward each other and closing the edge with over-hand or running stitches. Where the seam is curved, the edges must be notched every now and then to prevent the garment from pulling at such points.

AN ORDINARY TAILORED SEAM, which makes a good, neat finish is the plain seam pressed with both edges turned to one side, and a row of machine stitching run in neatly along the one side of the seam from the right side of the garment as shown in Illustration 155. Or, if preferred, a row of stitching may be applied to each side of the seam (Ill. 156.) In the latter case, however, the seam should be pressed open before running in the stitching.

A BROAD SEAM is a plain, wide seam with four rows of ornamental stitching. (Ill. 157.) This seam is mostly used on tailored garments of heavy materials.

A CORD OR TUCK SEAM is a plain seam with both edges turned to one side, and a row of stitching run about one-fourth of an inch from the seam, through the three thicknesses of the goods. This creates a raised or cord-like effect. (Ill. 158.) The undesirable thickness on the under side may be cut away at the inner edge as close to the stitching as possible.

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/92


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/388

368 thus possible; but at the price of increasing scandal to the queen-mother. Perhaps her profligacy had become too patent for endurance; perhaps her interest was becoming of less importance. At any rate, as the factions drew together, even the Archbishop of St Andrew's consented to unite with Angus and Argyle in a representation to Henry on the character of the person whom his sister allowed to associate with the King, with an entreaty that, if his mother was to remain in authority, she should consent to have 'discreet and honourable persons appointed for the high offices of State and for the chairs of the judges.' Margaret herself had almost resolved upon concessions. She ventured on one last effort to escape the hard necessity. Her husband and Lennox remained at Dalkeith: she implored the Earl of Cassilis and Lord Murray to attack and destroy them. But the two lords refused to undertake a crime which had no object but the gratification of a woman's revenge: she agreed to treat; and while the terms were being discussed, the Edinburgh citizens, on the 14th of February, shortened the debate by


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/389

1525.] ing open their gates and inviting Angus's presence among them. Three weeks of consultation terminated, at last, in the formation of a Council of Eight, who should govern Scotland in the King's name under the nominal presidency of the Queen. The Church was represented by the two Archbishops of St Andrew's and Glasgow, the Bishops of Aberdeen and Dunblane; the half-reconciled parties among the nobles by Angus and Lennox, Arran and Argyle.

The friends of England, though not absolute, were thus once more of considerable weight; and the future relations of the two countries could now be deliberated on with a hope of settlement. As yet so much as a formal peace had not been concluded. The war had closed with a truce which, as it expired, had been renewed for limited periods. The final treaty had been postponed till it could be conceived upon a basis which promised perpetuity. The proposals of Henry were brought forward by Dr Magnus. With his 'poor reasonings' he dwelt 'upon the nigh marching together of the two realms within one isle, and of one speech and language;' upon 'the proximity in blood between the King's Highness of England and the young King his tender nephew;' upon 'the said young King's possibility of inheritance to the two crowns;' and, finally, upon 'the great likelihood he had to be preferred afore all others to the marriage of the lady princess, if favourably and in loving manner his Grace could and would use him towards the King his uncle.' These points at once invited union, and showed the possibility


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/390

370 of it; but the outstanding differences, Magnus urged, if they were to be settled satisfactorily, must be settled between themselves without the intervention of a third party; and he desired the new council, as an evidence of their good intentions, to agree at once to a perpetual peace with England, in which France should not be comprehended.

Scotland was as much interested as the sister kingdom in the acceptance of the English minister's overtures; but the necessary confidence was still, as it seemed, impossible; and 'there was a great personage, neither favourable in word nor countenance.' The Bishop of Aberdeen replied in the name of the council. He declined to consider Henry's political philosophy, confining himself to facts. He desired security before his country would commit itself to a treaty. Let the marriage between their young King and the Princess Mary, which was held out to them as a temptation, be converted into a fact—let there be a formal and legal betrothal—and then, he said, 'the whole realm of Scotland was minded and inclined utterly to abandon and leave France, and wholly to be conjoined with England.… Else, remembering their old leagues with France, continued by the space of five or six hundred years, it was thought to the lords of Scotland to be greatly to the reproach of their honour to agree to peace, either perpetual or temporal.' Neither Government would venture a step upon trust.


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/93

Rh {| align = center

 * }

A WELT SLAM is made by first stitching a plain seam with the one edge of the material left very narrow. Then turn back the fold and baste down close along the narrower seam edge. Stitch parallel to the line of bastings, keeping the seam flat. Illustration 159 shows this seam with the machine-stitches ripped out at the top to expose the narrow seam edge underneath.

A DOUBLE-STITCHED WELT SEAM has an additional row of stitching set in one-fourth inch or less from the edge. (Ill. 160.)

AN OPEN WELT SEAM is first basted as for a plain seam. The tuck is then basted down flat, with the stitches directly over the line of bastings in the seam. With one row of machine-stitching the tuck-like fold and the seam are made secure. (Ill. 161.)

A SLOT SEAM is made by basting the seam as for a plain seam. The basting stitches should be short enough to keep the seam firm while it is being pressed open. Then baste an understrip of the material a trifle narrower than the combined width of the seam edges, directly under the basted seam. (Ill. 162.) From the right side, stitch the desired width on each side of the center. Remove the bastings. The turned edges, now free, give the slot appearance, whence the name. (Ill. 163.)

A DOUBLE-STITCHED SLOT SEAM is produced by stitching another row each side of the center, close to the turned edges. (Ill. 163.)

STRAP SEAMS are plain seams over which straps of the material are stitched for ornamental purposes. The strips for these straps may be cut lengthwise of plain material from pieces that are left after cutting out the garment, but experience has taught that when silk

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/93


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/391

1525.] The King of England required evidence of a sincere desire for peace on the part of the Scotch before he would determine the succession to the English throne in favour of his nephew. The Scotch would not sacrifice their old allies till the bargain which was to purchase them was concluded beyond recall.

The Edinburgh council were immovable; and delay could not now be avoided, for three years must pass before James would be of age to be a party to a valid contract. The immediate difficulty of the unsettled war was disposed of by a treaty of peace to last for that time. When the three years were expired the whole question should be re-opened. Possibly the temper of Scotland would not have permitted a more satisfactory conclusion; but the young James, weary to his heart of the heartburnings and quarrels which surrounded him, told Magnus he wished he was in England with the King his uncle.

Something had been gained in this negotiation. A partial respect had been paid to good sense; and the principles had been acknowledged at least outwardly and in a limited degree which ought to govern the counsels of the two kingdoms. But no sooner was the treaty determined than the lords and gentlemen made haste to indemnify themselves for their temporary interval of sanity. The English minister found himself, he knew not why, an object of general suspicion. The fall of the year was wild and wet, the


text:
User:Mkg just4u

Hi this is mkg_just4u from Nepal. Please Visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Mkg_just4u

title: User:Mkg just4u


text:
User talk:Mkg just4u

Hi Welcome to my Wikisource Talk Page...

title: User talk:Mkg just4u


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/392

372 harvest was in danger, and a rumour went abroad that Magnus was an enchanter who in years past, by a diabolic art, had blighted the vines in France and Flanders, and had now overlooked Scotland with an evil eye. As he walked through the streets of Edinburgh the women 'banned, cursed, and wirried' him and his servants 'openly to their faces; and gave them the most grievous maledictions that could be.' He entreated to be allowed to return home at once, and abide no longer 'in that cumbrous country where ever was confusion without trust, disdain, slander, malice, and cruelty, without virtue, or dread of God or man.'

The departure of the ambassador was a signal for the dissolution of the short-lived coalition. In the caprices of passion and humour we look vainly for any guiding principle. Every one did what was right in his own eyes, and his estimate both of interest and fitness varied from day to day. In the beginning of 1526 Arran and Angus quarrelled. Angus, supported now by Archbishop Beton, kept possession of the Government and the person of the King. Then James, instructed by his mother, complained that he was held in thraldom, and threw himself on the loyalty of the nobles. The friends of Angus fell off; but he was still powerful. Sir George Douglas kept guard at the King's door night and day, to prevent an attempt at capture. Suddenly the partners changed in the game. On the 2nd of September Angus and Arran had been reconciled; Lennox and


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/393

1526.] the Archbishop had dropped away to the party of France, and the feud of the Hamiltons with the Lennoxes bursting into sudden flame, there was a battle at Linlithgow, where Lennox himself was killed, with the Abbots of Melrose and Dunfermline, the brother and nephew of the primate, and two Stewarts, brothers of the worthless Methuen. Anarchy now followed. Gordon of Lochinvar killed the Laird of Bumbie at the door of St Giles's church, and though Parliament was sitting, appeared openly in the streets, unchallenged by any one. Angus, with his English friends, was able at intervals to maintain, by mere violence, some shadow of authority; but order was limited to places immediately controlled by his own dependents. The will of every man was every man's law—the tribunal of justice his inclination—the executive government his own arm and sword. The sister island remained the ideal of confusion, but Scotland was earning rapidly the secondary merit of successful imitation.

Angus continued dominant till the summer of 1528. In the spring of that year the Court of Rome, which at the moment, we are assured by Catholic historians, was engaged in defending the sacredness of matrimony against the licentious demands of Henry VIII., gave its sanction, nevertherless, to the most impudent request for a divorce ever prosecuted in a court of justice: and forth


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/94

90

is used it is better to cut them on the bias, and then the material is cloth the better result will be obtained if the straps are cut crosswise or bias of the goods.

For a finished strap, that is five-eights of an inch wide, the strips are cut one and one-fourth inches wide. Join the two raw edges with loose over-hand stitches as shown in Illustration 137, page 82; spread out the strap with the line of joining directly on the center, and press.

When making strap seams it is desirable to graduate the thickness at the seams as much as possible. For this reason, cut the seams either wide enough so the edges on the underside will extend beyond the edges of the strap, or cut them narrower so the edges of the strap will extend beyond the seam edges.

Baste the straps carefully over the seams, with a line of bastings run along each edge. (Ill. 164.) When it is necessary to piece the straps for long seams, avoid having the joining seam in a prominent place on the garment.

A LAPPED OR IMITATION STRAP SEAM is the most practical finish for unlined garments. The edges at the seams are lapped and the raw edges turned in with a row of stitches finishing it alike on the right and wrong sides. (Ill. 165.)

A RAW-EDGE LAPPED SEAM is used in making garments of heavy, closely woven material that will not fray or ravel. The seam edges must be cut very accurately and smoothly. Baste the edges evenly, lapping them the full allowance, and stitch as near the edge of the upper lap as possible. A second row of stitching five-eighths of an inch from the first gives it a neat and tailored finish. The seam on the under side should be trimmed off evenly. (Ill. 166.)

One should be very careful in deciding on the style of seam used on a tailored garment. Tweeds, homespuns, friezes, and all other rather loosely woven woolen materials should be finished with bound seams. In linens, pongees and crashes one should use the cord, bound or lapped seam. Broadcloth, meltons, kerseys, covert, and other heavy driving cloths can be pinked, as they are so closely woven that they will not ravel. To have a good tailored look the machine-stitchings on any seam must not be too fine. The thread and needle should be of medium thickness and the stitch should correspond in size.

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/94


text:
Page:The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero) - Volume 4.djvu/299

CANTO III.] CANTO THE THIRD.

out the mass of never-dying ill,

The Plague, the Prince, the Stranger, and the Sword,

Vials of wrath but emptied to refill

And flow again, I cannot all record

That crowds on my prophetic eye: the Earth

And Ocean written o'er would not afford

Space for the annal, yet it shall go forth;

Yes, all, though not by human pen, is graven,

There where the farthest suns and stars have birth,

Spread like a banner at the gate of Heaven,

The bloody scroll of our millennial wrongs

Waves, and the echo of our groans is driven

Athwart the sound of archangelic songs,

And Italy, the martyred nation's gore,

Will not in vain arise to where belongs

Omnipotence and Mercy evermore:

Like to a harpstring stricken by the wind,

The sound of her lament shall, rising o'er

The Seraph voices, touch the Almighty Mind.

Meantime I, humblest of thy sons, and of

Earth's dust by immortality refined

To Sense and Suffering, though the vain may scoff,

And tyrants threat, and meeker victims bow

Before the storm because its breath is rough,

To thee, my Country! whom before, as now,

I loved and love, devote the mournful lyre


text:
Page:The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero) - Volume 4.djvu/300

262 And melancholy gift high Powers allow

To read the future: and if now my fire

Is not as once it shone o'er thee, forgive!

I but foretell thy fortunes—then expire;

Think not that I would look on them and live.

A Spirit forces me to see and speak,

And for my guerdon grants not to survive;

My Heart shall be poured over thee and break:

Yet for a moment, ere I must resume

Thy sable web of Sorrow, let me take

Over the gleams that flash athwart thy gloom

A softer glimpse; some stars shine through thy night,

And many meteors, and above thy tomb

Leans sculptured Beauty, which Death cannot blight:

And from thine ashes boundless Spirits rise

To give thee honour, and the earth delight;

Thy soil shall still be pregnant with the wise,

The gay, the learned, the generous, and the brave,

Native to thee as Summer to thy skies,

Conquerors on foreign shores, and the far wave,

Discoverers of new worlds, which take their name;


text:
Page:The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero) - Volume 4.djvu/301

CANTO III.] For thee alone they have no arm to save,

And all thy recompense is in their fame,

A noble one to them, but not to thee—

Shall they be glorious, and thou still the same?

Oh! more than these illustrious far shall be

The Being—and even yet he may be born—

The mortal Saviour who shall set thee free,

And see thy diadem, so changed and worn

By fresh barbarians, on thy brow replaced;

And the sweet Sun replenishing thy morn,

Thy moral morn, too long with clouds defaced,

And noxious vapours from Avernus risen,

Such as all they must breathe who are debased

By Servitude, and have the mind in prison.

Yet through this centuried eclipse of woe

Some voices shall be heard, and Earth shall listen;

Poets shall follow in the path I show,

And make it broader: the same brilliant sky

Which cheers the birds to song shall bid them glow,

And raise their notes as natural and high;

Tuneful shall be their numbers; they shall sing

Many of Love, and some of Liberty,

But few shall soar upon that Eagle's wing,

And look in the Sun's face, with Eagle's gaze,

All free and fearless as the feathered King,

But fly more near the earth; how many a phrase

Sublime shall lavished be on some small prince

In all the prodigality of Praise!

And language, eloquently false, evince

The harlotry of Genius, which, like Beauty,


text:
Page:The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero) - Volume 4.djvu/302

264 Too oft forgets its own self-reverence,

And looks on prostitution as a duty.

He who once enters in a Tyrant's hall

As guest is slave—his thoughts become a booty,

And the first day which sees the chain enthral

A captive, sees his half of Manhood gone —

The Soul's emasculation saddens all

His spirit; thus the Bard too near the throne

Quails from his inspiration, bound to please,—

How servile is the task to please alone!

To smooth the verse to suit his Sovereign's ease

And royal leisure, nor too much prolong

Aught save his eulogy, and find, and seize,

Or force, or forge fit argument of Song!

Thus trammelled, thus condemned to Flattery's trebles,

He toils through all, still trembling to be wrong:

For fear some noble thoughts, like heavenly rebels,

Should rise up in high treason to his brain,

He sings, as the Athenian spoke, with pebbles

In's mouth, lest Truth should stammer through his strain.

But out of the long file of sonneteers

There shall be some who will not sing in vain,


text:
Page:The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero) - Volume 4.djvu/303

CANTO III.] And he, their Prince, shall rank among my peers,

And Love shall he his torment; but his grief

Shall make an immortality of tears,

And Italy shall hail him as the Chief

Of Poet-lovers, and his higher song

Of Freedom wreathe him with as green a leaf.

But in a farther age shall rise along

The banks of Po two greater still than he;

The World which smiled on him shall do them wrong

Till they are ashes, and repose with me.

The first will make an epoch with his lyre,

And fill the earth with feats of Chivalry:

His Fancy like a rainbow, and his Fire,

Like that of Heaven, immortal, and his Thought

Borne onward with a wing that cannot tire;

Pleasure shall, like a butterfly new caught,

Flutter her lovely pinions o'er his theme,

And Art itself seem into Nature wrought

By the transparency of his bright dream.—

The second, of a tenderer, sadder mood,

Shall pour his soul out o'er Jerusalem;

He, too, shall sing of Arms, and Christian blood

Shed where Christ bled for man; and his high harp

Shall, by the willow over Jordan's flood,

Revive a song of Sion, and the sharp

Conflict, and final triumph of the brave

And pious, and the strife of Hell to warp

Their hearts from their great purpose, until wave

The red-cross banners where the first red Cross

Was crimsoned from His veins who died to save,

Shall be his sacred argument; the loss

Of years, of favour, freedom, even of fame

Contested for a time, while the smooth gloss

Of Courts would slide o'er his forgotten name


text:
Page:The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero) - Volume 4.djvu/304

266 And call Captivity a kindness—meant

To shield him from insanity or shame—

Such shall be his meek guerdon! who was sent

To be Christ's Laureate—they reward him well!

Florence dooms me but death or banishment,

Ferrara him a pittance and a cell,

Harder to bear and less deserved, for I

Had stung the factions which I strove to quell;

But this meek man who with a lover's eye

Will look on Earth and Heaven, and who will deign

To embalm with his celestial flattery,

As poor a thing as e'er was spawned to reign,

What will he do to merit such a doom?

Perhaps he'll love—and is not Love in vain

Torture enough without a living tomb?

Yet it will be so—he and his compeer,

The Bard of Chivalry, will both consume

In penury and pain too many a year,

And, dying in despondency, bequeath

To the kind World, which scarce will yield a tear,

A heritage enriching all who breathe

With the wealth of a genuine Poet's soul,

And to their country a redoubled wreath,

Unmatched by time; not Hellas can unroll

Through her Olympiads two such names, though one

Of hers be mighty;—and is this the whole

Of such men's destiny beneath the Sun?


text:
Page:The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero) - Volume 4.djvu/305

CANTO III.] Must all the finer thoughts, the thrilling sense,

The electric blood with which their arteries run,

Their body's self turned soul with the intense

Feeling of that which is, and fancy of

That which should be, to such a recompense

Conduct? shall their bright plumage on the rough

Storm be still scattered? Yes, and it must be;

For, formed of far too penetrable stuff,

These birds of Paradise but long to flee

Back to their native mansion, soon they find

Earth's mist with their pure pinions not agree,

And die or are degraded; for the mind

Succumbs to long infection, and despair,

And vulture Passions flying close behind,

Await the moment to assail and tear;

And when, at length, the wingéd wanderers stoop,

Then is the Prey-birds' triumph, then they share

The spoil, o'erpowered at length by one fell swoop.

Yet some have been untouched who learned to bear,

Some whom no Power could ever force to droop,


text:
Page:The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero) - Volume 4.djvu/306

68 Who could resist themselves even, hardest care!

And task most hopeless; but some such have been,

And if my name amongst the number were,

That Destiny austere, and yet serene,

Were prouder than more dazzling fame unblessed;

The Alp's snow summit nearer heaven is seen

Than the Volcano's fierce eruptive crest,

Whose splendour from the black abyss is flung,

While the scorched mountain, from whose burning breast

A temporary torturing flame is wrung,

Shines for a night of terror, then repels

Its fire back to the Hell from whence it sprung,

The Hell which in its entrails ever dwells.


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/167

Rh "this deliverance will be weighed by those to whose lot it may fall to determine Mr. Arnold's own place as a critic." Dr. Garnett adds that, in an age when all letters approximate to the ideal set by men of business, Shelley's alone, among those of his time, rank with Gray's, Pope's, Cowper's, or Walpole's in possessing a certain classical impress similar to that of deliberate artistic work; and, secondly, that they exhibit the mind of the poet as clearly as Marlborough's do the mind of the general, or Macaulay's the mind of the man of letters. Their two prime qualities are beauty of form and transparency.

The sense of form has usually been denied to Shelley, and if by it is meant the purely critical impulse to remodel, revise, and polish for the sake of that finish which the schools prize, Shelley neither possessed it nor sought for it with any strong desire, but rather rejected it as dangerously submitting the mind to system, against which he was prejudiced. But if by the sense of form is meant the instinct for proportion, for regulated combination, for natural development of sensation into idea, idea into passion, so that the poem issues in a single harmony in the mind and


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/394

374 with the Queen married Methuen, and shut herself up with him in Stirling Castle. The dismissed husband was able partially to revenge this final insult to his honour. He surrounded Stirling, compelled Methuen to surrender, and threw him into prison. But it was the last effort of his waning power, and precipitated his fall. The Archbishop of St Andrew's supported the dignity of the Church's judgment; and the united strength of the ecclesiastics proved always, in the long run, too much for the resistance of a section of the divided lords. A revolution followed, which restored Margaret and her lover to each other's arms, and replaced James in their edifying custody. With the assistance of the bishops, and of every one with whose self-indulgent tendencies the late Government had interfered, they recovered an absolute superiority. An assembly called a Parliament met at Edinburgh on the 2nd of September, composed of the personal enemies of the Earl of Angus. The two Douglases, Sir George and the Earl, were accused of having betrayed their country to the English, and were attainted of treason. Their lands were confiscated, and given away among the profligate companions of the Queen's paramour.

Angus did not yield without an effort. He fell


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/168

158 heart; if, in other words, by that loose phrase is meant, not the corrective power of the critical, but the shaping power of the creative faculty working out ideal beauty directly, then both in his brief and in much of his longer poems Shelley was singularly distinguished by it. This spontaneous beauty of form, if we may so phrase it, is the only species that is found in these letters: fitness of words, sweetness of cadence, modulation of feeling in immediate response to thought and image, all conspiring to make up perfection of utterance, are continually present, but not through erasure and elaboration. Shelley's self-training in literature, almost unrivaled as an apprenticeship in its length and continuity, more comprehensive, profound, and ardent than Pope's, more vital than Milton's, had made such literary lucidity and grace the habit of his pen, and he was fortunate in employing his gift upon subjects intrinsically most interesting to cultivated men: upon the art and landscape of Italy, or his own always high human relations, or his poetic moods.

In what he says of statues and paintings he shows but slight knowledge of art. The keenness of his perceptions and the warmth


text:
Page:History of England (Froude) Vol 3.djvu/395

1528.] back upon the Castle of Tantallon, where he was followed by Margaret's friends. Once he sallied out, drove off his besiegers, and seized their artillery. But his means were small; and two years of power had exhausted his popularity. The commons had found him scarcely better able to maintain order than his predecessors, and saw no reason to risk their lives or properties in his defence. Henry vainly interceded for him; and the French alliance being at that moment of importance to himself, he could not impair its stability by declaring war against the friends of France in Scotland. Angus therefore gave way to necessity. He retired a second time into exile; and the nation settled back into its old suspiciousness, which it disguised under the name of independence.

James meanwhile was growing towards manhood, and with his increasing years assumed in full proportions the distinguishing characteristics of his countrymen. He was brave, high-spirited, and chivalrous; but he was moved generally by sentiment, rarely guided by judgment. In the miserable examples which surrounded him he learnt early the lesson of licentiousness, as well as the easy terms which he could secure for his indulgences, by devotion to the Church and to orthodoxy. He was possessed of every quality which interests without commanding respect. Like the rest of his unfortunate family, he seemed to be formed by nature to choose the wrong side—to pursue a conduct fatal to himself and mischievous to Scotland; yet, at the worst, retaining the affection even of those


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/169

Rh of his feelings made him particularly open to sensuous effects, so that in general he worships the later schools. In painting, especially, he can hardly be considered a safe guide for others, because his praise or censure is largely dependent on his temperament for its justification: a picture which is consonant with his own imagination, and stirs it, is thereby raised and glorified, but one whose theme would have been differently developed by himself is at once made pale by contrast with the quick visions of his own vividly pictorial mind. Here is a portion of his description of a Christ Beatified:—

"The countenance is heavy, as it were, with the rapture of the spirit; the lips parted, but scarcely parted, with the breath of intense but regulated passion; the eyes are calm and benignant; the whole features harmonized in majesty and sweetness."

One cannot but feel that the face which Shelley thus summons up before us bears the same relation to the original as what the dull-minded call his plagiarisms from Lodge do to that poet's lyrics. Shelley often paints the picture over upon the outlines of the old canvas; but this transforming or


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/170

160 power, as it will be differently named just as one believes the given picture to lack or possess what Shelley saw in it, lends such passages not only surpassing beauty, but a real value as interpretations of art. Much as Ruskin would differ from Shelley's judgments, the two are essentially similar in their mode of treatment, and in their faculty of giving the equivalent of form and color in eloquence.

The description of landscape, which is another principal topic, possesses even more plainly classic beauty. Whether Shelley writes of nature in her wild and picturesque scenes, or where the presence of man has added pathos or dignity to her loveliness; whether he flashes the view upon us in one perfect line, or unfolds it slowly in unconfused detail, he displays the highest power in this field of literature. This view from the Forum of Pompeii, which, instead of being robed with "the gray veil of his own words," seems filled with "the purple noon's transparent light," cannot be surpassed as speech at once familiar and noble:—

"At the upper end, supported on an elevated platform, stands the temple of Jupiter. Under the colonnade of its portico we


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/171

Rh sate, and pulled out our oranges, and figs, and bread, and medlars,—sorry fare, you will say,—and rested to eat. Here was a magnificent spectacle. Above and between the multitudinous shafts of the sun-shining columns was seen the sea, reflecting the purple noon of heaven above it, and supporting, as it were, on its line the dark, lofty mountains of Sorrento, of a blue inexpressibly deep, and tinged toward their summits with streaks of new-fallen snow. Between was one small green island. To the right was Capreæ, Inarime, Prochyta, and Misenum. Behind was the single summit of Vesuvius, rolling forth volumes of thick white smoke, whose foam-like column was sometimes darted into the clear dark sky, and fell in little streaks along the wind. Between Vesuvius and the nearer mountains, as through a chasm, was seen the main line of the loftiest Apennines to the east. The day was radiant and warm. Every now and then we heard subterranean thunder of Vesuvius; its distant, deep peals seemed to shake the very air and light of day, which interpenetrated our frames with the sullen and tremendous sound."

Thus he wrote when merely passive to


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/95

Hem is a finish for the edges of garments, household linens, etc. It is made by turning the edge over twice. (Ill. 167.) The first turning should be narrow and must of course be perfectly even. The depth of the second turning depends on where the hem is used and the effect you want to give. Mark the depth of the second turning on the material with pins, using as a marker a card notched the desired depth of the hem. Fold the material on the line with the pins and if the hem is wide baste it at both the top and bottom.

A NAPERY OR DAMASK HEM is used on napkins and table-cloths. Turn under the edge of the material twice for a narrow hem. Fold the hem back on the right side, crease the material along the first fold, and overhand the fold and crease together. The needle is inserted straight, as shown in Illustration 168. Open and flatten stitches with the thumb-nail.

If a square is used, turn the opposite side in the same manner. Hem the sides before folding back on the right side. No basting is needed for this hem. Take small stitches so that the work will look well when the hem is turned down. Directions for hemstitching will be found on page 120.

SQUARE CORNERS are used in hemming squares or oblongs. Turn under the hem on one edge and then turn under the hem on the edge at right angles with the first. Crease the line where the fold of the second hem crosses the first hem. Open both hems and cut away the first hem to within a seam's width of the crease and the fold of the hem. (Ill. 169.) Turn under the hems again and hem the overlapping edges of the second hem to the under side of the first hem (Ill. 170) but not through to the right side. Finish all square corners in this way.

MITERED CORNERS are made by joining two bias edges to form an angle. Turn the edges as for hems, and crease. Open the material, fold the corner toward the center, and crease where the lines cross. Cut the corner off, allowing

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/95


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/172

162 nature's influences; but when he begins to think he irradiates the scene; he lifts it with his aspiration and softens it with his regret; he brings it near by reminiscences of the English fields and cliffs and streams; he informs it with the large interests of the intellectual life; and not infrequently he concludes with a passage which, in the arrangement of its images, the sequence of its thought and feeling, the unity of its effect, in all except metrical structure, is a poem. Many paragraphs might be cited which show the character of his genius as directly as do his verses, and which justify the claim advanced for them as having the permanent interest of ideal beauty.

The principal charm of these letters, however, as Dr. Garnett says, is not artistic, but moral. It is not meant to refer by this term to the practical morality of Shelley's deeds, or to his conscientiousness, humanity, self-sacrifice, or other such qualities as they are here displayed; of these there is no longer need to speak. Nor is it meant simply to express the gratification one feels at finding that Shelley, unlike many men of letters who disappoint us by being only common mortals in private life, never falls


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/96

92 a narrow turning (Ill. 171). Fold the hems down all around, bring the mitered corners together, and hem the side (Ill. 172). Hem the corners, but do not catch the stitches through the material underneath.

FRENCH HEM The seams must be stitched to within twice the depth of the finished hem, as shown in Illustration 173. Clip the seam at

this point to the stitching, turn the lower edges toward the right side and stitch the remainder of the seam. Press open, turn the hem to the right side, baste and feather-stitch (Ill. 174), or finish in any desirable way.

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/96


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/173

Rh below our conception of him, indicative as it is of his purity that his "unpremeditated song" does not fail to reach the height of his great argument. What impresses one most is rather the character of the life itself, of the mind to which "trust in all things high came natural," that moved with equal ease among the things of beauty, on the heights of thought, or amid the common and trivial cares of household life and in the offices of friendship, and knew no difference in the level of his life, so single was his nature and so completely expressed in all he did. In the most ideal passages, in those most impersonal, one does not lose the sense of friendliness in them, of the sweet human relationship which underlies the telling of what he has to say, and keeps the letters in their appropriate sphere. They are not rhapsodies, or soliloquies, or disquisitions; in other words, the visitations of the spirit that came to Shelley, and left record of themselves in this beauty and eloquence and imaginative passion, did not isolate him even momentarily, and could not sever him from his friends. Who these were, we know well enough: Miss Hitchener, the blue-stocking; Hogg, the betrayer;


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/97

Rh A CIRCULAR HEM is often used on a skirt or garment that is not straight at the lower edge.

If the material is soft in texture, the top of the hem is simply turned under and a gathering-thread run in close to the turning. (Ill. 175.) Draw the gathering-thread till the top of the hem is the same size as the part to which it is to be sewed. (Ill. 175.) Blind-stitch it or machine-stitch it to the garment.

If the material of the garment is of heavy weight the upper edge should be gathered without turning it under (Ill. 176) and the raw edge should be covered with a strip of seam-binding. (Ill. 176.) The lower edge of this seam-binding should be sewed to the hem but not to the garment.

Before sewing the top of the hem in place slip a piece of muslin cut the shape of the bottom of the garment under the hem and press the hem flat, shrinking out as much of the fulness as possible. The piece of muslin will prevent the fulness in the hem from making marks on the garment during the pressing.

The piece of muslin need not be the full width or size of the garment or hem. It can be a comparatively short piece and can be moved as the pressing is done.

After the hem has been pressed in this manner, hem the upper edge of the seam binding to the garment with invisible stitches.

A HEM FOR A SLIGHTLY GORED OR STRAIGHT SKIRT. The hem edge is turned under in the usual way. If an invisible sewing is desired, the turned-under edge of the hem is stitched close to the turning and then blind-stitched neatly and carefully to the garment.

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/97


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/174

164 the Williamses and Gisbornes, who seem to have belonged to the class of people known as satisfying; Peacock, who, with all his nympholepsy, was a born beef-eater; Smith, the obliging; Hunt, the "wren," and Byron, the "eagle," in Shelley's nomenclature,—the too fortunate people who knew Shelley and whom he loved. They formed the environment, which needs to be kept in mind by any who would estimate Shelley's moral power; amid them he lived his high life and made it theirs, in the case of the most, during their communion with him. In a vague analogical way he sometimes brings to mind the Greek gods, who, with all their divine attributes of beauty, power, dignity, were singular among deities for their companionableness; Shelley had that divine quality of being familiar and retaining his original brightness. Toward Byron alone does he show any repulsion; he recognized Byron's admirable qualities, but he was alienated by the latter's selfishness, worldliness, and earthliness, even while he kept terms of amity. Shelley's sentence on Byron is most serious evidence against him, and it is now supported by much that Shelley could not


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/175

Rh have known; but it need not be discussed here.

It is especially fortunate that the letters exhibit him after his boyhood, with its false starts, its follies and prejudices, its narrowness and confusion, was passed; of that time we get only a noble echo in his sad remembrance, amid his seeming failure, of the lofty purpose with which he had entered life, while we see the depth unconfused by the tumult of his soul. In these last years, it is true, the thwarting of his practical instinct was ending in hopelessness; but if the earthly paradise that was the faith of his youth was now fading away, he was lifting his eyes to the city in the heavens, and had acknowledged the vanity of seeking the ideal he knew, except in the eternal; he had worked out his salvation. Perhaps after all we do wrong to lament his death; with that tragedy, in which every thought of Shelley involuntarily concludes, his work as a quickener of the spirit was accomplished. More finished works of art he might have given to us; he could not have left a nobler or more enkindling memory. These letters help in the still necessary labor of clearing away


text:
Page:Studies in Letters and Life (Woodberry, 1890).djvu/176

166 the misconceptions concerning him. In them one sees him only in the quiet of his soul, and will come to a better knowledge and perhaps a higher truth concerning him than is possible by reading his changeful poems alone.


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/98

FALSE HEM OR FACING is often preferred for the finish of an edge. A garment can sometimes be cut from less material by using a facing, for a hem requires extra length or width while a facing can often be cut from pieces which would not otherwise be used.

A hem is better than a facing for thin materials as the joining seam of the facing would show in transparent materials and would not be pretty.

A STRAIGHT FACING is used if the edge to be faced is a perfectly straight line, no matter whether the thread or grain of the goods is straight or bias. The facing may be cut lengthwise or crosswise of the material.

A BIAS FACING is used if the edge to be faced is curved, for the bias facing can be stretched to fit the shape of the edge. To stretch the facing press it, stretching it at the outer edge as you do so. (Ill. 177.)

A SHAPED FACING is cut the same shape and on the same grain of the material as the part to be faced. (Ill. 178.)

It is used on all edges which are not in a straight line but which are curved or irregular.

FACINGS may be sewed to an edge and then turned, or the edge may be turned first and the facing applied.

THE SEWED-ON FACING—The facing strips are pieced together and the seams pressed open. Baste and stitch the facing to the edge with the

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/98


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/99

Rh right sides together. Turn the facing over to the wrong side and baste it down flat along the edge, drawing the seam about ⅛ of an inch from the fold. (Ill. 179.) Baste again along the inner edge of the facing turning in a narrow seam, or cover the edge with seam-binding.

THE APPLIED FACING. Turn under one or both edges of the facing, baste and press. Turn under the edge of the garment and baste it. (Ill. 180.) If the edge draws, clip it to make it lie flat. Baste the edge of the facing about ½ an inch from the edge of the garment; then baste along the inner edge of the facing. (Ill. 180.)

AN EXTENSION FACING is used on any edge which is a straight line or which is nearly a straight line so that the facing can be eased enough to make it lie flat, but not so much that the easing will show after pressing.

THE SEWED-ON EXTENSION FACING. Cut a facing twice the width the facing should be when finished, plus a seam allowance on each edge. Baste and stitch the facing to the edge with right sides together. Turn under the loose edge of facing and baste it to wrong side of the garment, covering the seam. (Ill. 181.)

THE APPLIED EXTENSION FACING. Turn under all edges of the facing and baste them. Fold the facing through the center and baste it a short distance from the edge with the edges even. Slip the edge of the garment between the edges of the facing and baste. (Ill. 182.) The applied extension facing should be used when the edge is not perfectly straight and the facing can not be eased to it. (Ill. 182.)

TO APPLY A CORDED FACING. Turn under the edge you are going to face as allowed for on the pattern and baste it. Baste the facing flat to the inside of the edge with just the cording extending beyond the edge. A cord is put in a facing the same way it is put in a cord piping. (Page 130, chapter 26.)

Baste on the right side so that you can see what you are doing. (Ill. 183.) Slip-stitch the cord in place with invisible stitches just under the edge of the garment. (Ill 183.) The free edge of the facing should be turned

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/99


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/100

96 under a seam's width and, if necessary, stretched to fit the edge of the garment. If an invisible sewing is desired the turned-under edge of the facing is stitched close to the turning, not to the garment. It simply lies flat against the garment. It does away with the second sewing of the facing to the garment, a thing that few amateurs can do invisibly.

TO APPLY A PIPED FACING. The method of applying a piped facing is exactly the same as applying a cord facing. The cord is simply omitted.

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/100


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/101

UCKS should be marked with a measure so that they will be of even width.

NUN'S TUCKS are wide tucks usually two inches or more in width. The method of making all tucks is the same more or less, but the wider the tucks, the greater the difficulty in keeping the tucks and the distance between them even, especially when the bottom of a skirt is circular. In such a case the tucks must be marked and basted before the stitching is done.

Cut the gage from a piece of cardboard, and from the end measure down the width of first tuck, making a slash and a bias cut to meet the slash. (Ill. 184.) Make a second cut as shown in Illustration 184, allowing for width of space and second tuck.

It is quicker and more accurate to make a gage of this sort in measuring short spaces, such as hems, tucks and the spaces between them, than to use the tape measure, as sometimes the eye becomes confused at the small marks on the tape, and mistakes are made that will prove quite serious.

CURVED TUCKS—Curved tucks are sewed on a curved line which makes the under side fuller than the upper side. Mark the edge of tuck with tailors' tacks (page 85) or pins, fold material on this mark and baste quite close to the edge (Ill. 185.) Mark the depth of the tuck from this edge, using a gage to keep the tuck an even width and baste. In sewing the tuck the extra fulness must be eased on the under side of the tuck as you sew. Be careful to distribute this fulness evenly so that it does not fall in bunches or draw the edge of the tuck out of place.

CROSS TUCKING is an effective trimming for waists, blouses, dresses, etc. All 97

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/101


text:
Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/102

98 tucks running in one direction should be made first. The cross tucks should be the same size and should be placed the same distance apart as the first tucks, so that when the tucks and cross tucks are finished they will form perfect squares. (Ill. 186.) Cross tucks may be of various sizes, but pin-tucks placed about an inch apart measuring from the sewing of one tuck to the edge of the next are particularly dainty.

IN LAYING PLAITS in a garment it is advisable if possible to lay the plaits before the seams are joined.

IN STITCHING PLAITS it is best to leave at least one seam of the garment open, and if it is a skirt, remove it from the belt, for the work can be more easily handled under the machine if it is open and flat.

After stitching the plaits as desired, baste and stitch the seam.

If it is a skirt, put it on the belt, press the plaits and try the skirt on to get the correct length.

A hem is the best finish for the bottom of a plaited skirt or dress. (Chapter 18, page 93.)

Be careful to get the plaits even, without any draw, especially where the edges come bias.

As each plait is flattened it should be basted a little distance from the fold edge, as shown in Illustration 187. to keep it in shape. This will be found a great convenience later in working on the garment.

When a plaited skirt is made of heavy material or is lapped very much at the waist in fitting, it may be made less bulky by cutting away the surplus material after the plaits are stitched. The overlapping material is cut away to within an inch or so of where the stitching finishes. (Ill. 188.) From that point it is cut across the top of the plait. (Ill. 188.) The raw edges left in this way are bound with a bias strip of lining or ribbon seam binding, that will finish across the top of each plait (Ill. 188.) except where the seams that join the

title: Page:Newdressmakerwit00butt.djvu/102