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Rh getting the patterns to match in the sewing, but one of the best and surest we have seen, is to turn in the back just to the mark, and then lay it on the top of the sidebody, and so get it to exactly match every bar and cross bar, and when in that position, fell baste it from the outside, which will then leave a row of straight stitches on the wrong side, and which will clearly indicate the place where the seam must be sewn. In cutting, it will he found impracticable to cut the goods on the double, each part must be carefully adjusted to the parts adjoining, we have indicated the most effectual lay of the pattern on the material, cutting through the perpendicular lines at the back seam, but arranging the front to run with it: the necessity of this latter arrangement will at once be apparent, when we point out that it is the only way of getting the pattern to match down the centre of the front. A reference to figure 23 will fully illustrate this. It will be observed that the sleeve is cut without a seam up the hindarm above the elbow, a feature which very greatly facilitates the matching process, whilst in order to get the pattern of sleeve and forepart to harmonise, the pattern at top of forearm sleeve and the front pitch should be adjusted; as we treat of sleeves fully in a separate chapter, we refer our readers to it for a full explanation of the Sleeve System.

This garment, which is little affected by fashion, is always popular with a very large number of ladies, and is certainly a most becoming garment for holiday wear and sporting purposes. It is the ideal garment for fishing, and is one of the most frequently patronized styles for pedestrian exercises. It seldom becomes the rage, while it is always to be seen in wear, hence our giving it a place in this work: and more especially so, because it has many characteristics peculiarly its own. It matters not whether it is intended for fishing, walking, cycling or equestrian purposes, it is arranged in the same way. We will proceed to deal with

And explain the special features of cut. We shall not describe the system in minute detail, as our readers will readily gather how that is arranged by a reference to the description of diagram 1. We will rather devote our remarks to the variations from diagram 1. In the first place the quantity allowed (2 inches) for making up may he excessive, if the material is thin, so that it may be advisable in such case to reduce the amount allowed to 1½ inches. In the next place it will be observed that the sideseam runs into the shoulder seam, and of course that involves an extra ½ inch, making 1 inch in all beyond the width of back measure taken. The location of the sideseam is fixed by the position desired for the pleats; in the diagram we have retained our usual method of fixing point 4 at one-third the distance from ½ to 11½, but of course this may be varied to taste, in accordance with

These are strips of material cut double the width desired, as illustrated on diagram 25, B C and E G representing the width of pleat; and A E, D H the edges turned in; these edges are then serged together, and the pleat arranged in such a position as is most suitable for the wearer. Now although these pleats are in reality separate pieces of material, the aim should be to make them appear as if they were all in one piece with the bodice, and with that end in view it will be advisable to keep them as straight as possible, and preferably the same width throughout, because if they are curved or made narrower at the waist—as they sometimes are—this idea is at once dispelled. There are usually three pleats behind, one down the centre scam of back, and one on either side, the side pleats meeting others on the forepart at the shoulder seam. The pleat down each forepart is generally arranged to go over the dart, and as will be seen, one dart only is taken out instead of two, this will necessitate its being taken higher than where there are two. A pleat is generally placed down the centre of front, and a very good style of finishing the cuff is illustrated on figure 24, consisting of two pleats somewhat narrower than those on the bodice placed on the bottom of the cuff. We will now give a few

But as we have dealt with this phase somewhat fully for the jacket and bodice, we must confine ourselves to the special features of this jacket. In sewing on the pleats it will be very necessary to remember more length will be required over the prominences than for the waist, indeed, from N to C should be put on full, more or less so in accordance with the roundness of the figure, and kept tight in the hollow of waist from C to E; this latter is even more important than the former. The best plan will be to baste these pleats on over the knee, when due provision may be made for both prominences and hollows. The pleats are sewn to from the inside. Some firms stitch down the edge of the pleats as illustrated on figure 24, to make them match the edges: it doubtless makes them firm, but at the same time it destroys much of the easy going appearance of which this garment is so characteristic, so that we leave this for the cutter's individual decision, as it


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 From Newton's note-books it appears that he was occupied with these studies in March, 1692-3, although they were not made public until 1701.

Newton made no use of the boiling-point of water in constructing his scale of temperatures, as he considered it variable; he recorded that water begins to boil at 33° of his scale, and boils vehemently at 34° to 34½°. We now know that such fluctuations depend upon the position of the thermometer (which must not be immersed in the liquid), on the pressure of the atmosphere, on the chemical purity of the water, and on the shape of the vessel holding it, so it is not surprising that doubts existed as to the constancy of the phenomenon. Mariotte had laid the foundations of hypsometry, but the experimental proofs were not secured until Le Monnier tested the matter in the Pyrenees in 1739.

In the same year that Newton published his researches, Étienne François Geoffroy described an open air-thermoscope nearly identical with that of Athanasius Kircher, made in the year 1643, and to which the French savant made no allusion. (Phil. Trans., 1701, p. 951.)

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18 will be for him to decide whether it is an improvement, or only time wasted; we know some tailors contend that it destroys the idea that the pleats are in one piece with the bodice, but whether this is so or not we will not stay to consider, but pass on to deal with

Some make them to fasten with hooks and eyes and let the front pleat come half over the edge, but the more general mode is to fasten them with holes and buttons, arranging the front pleats to quite hide them, and so forming a kind of fly; of course there is no difficulty in doing this when the garment buttons up to the throat as our figure illustrates, but when a collar and turn is desired, a little judgment will be necessary, the forepart of either side will have to terminate at the breast line as low as the roll is intended to turn, and the pleat made V shape at top, so as to come up under the lapel; this will call in the aid of a hook and eye at the top of the centre pleat, where it goes over the button side. Sometimes when the jackets are made with collar and turn the front pleat is omitted. A belt is generally worn with this garment, and may either be made from the same material; or be a fancy belt, made from leather or any fancy material; this may either fasten with holes and buttons when made from the material, or a fancy buckle may be used. Small loops are occasionally left at the side through which the pleat is passed, and we have seen the belt passed under the pleats at waist, but this is unsatisfactory, as it not only destroys the sit of the pleats at waist, but explodes any idea that might have been previously entertained, that the pleats were in one piece with the bodice.

The Riding Habit has always been looked upon as a tailor-made garment, and there seems little doubt it will long continue to be so, for being made as they frequently are, from heavy material they are much better manipulated by the tailor's mode of treatment, than the dressmaker's. In fashion, they change slowly, still the careful observer can easily detect the march of fashion, in both bodice and skirt. A few years ago the habit bodice was invariably made with skirts sewn on from the waist downwards; that has been regarded as old-fashioned for sonic time now. and at. the present time the rival styles are, the one cut sharply over the hips in the style illustrated on figure 25, and the other continued round about 6 or 7 inches below the waist as illustrated on figure 26. The fashionable section are wearing scarcely anything else but the style shown on figure 26, and in the future it will doubtless substitute entirely the older style, figure 25, but as they both continue to be worn, we deem it advisable to give diagrams of both styles, and begin with

The system is practically the same as described for the bodice, the amount allowed for making up being fixed by judgment. We need not repeat the system in all its details, but rather treat of the special features of the habit as distinguished from the bodice. We will first note the details of the back, and by a reference to the diagram it will at once be gathered it is cut on the crease; this was at one time looked upon as one of the special features of the habit, but time has changed the fashion even of this, and it is by no means so universal as it once was. When it is cut on the crease, it is only made ¾ of an inch wide at the waist, and of course this involves a re-adjustment of the seams, but Ave will deal with this presently. In order to give the waist as long an appearance as possible, the pleats are only commenced at 1½ inches below the natural waist, and the full length continued to 7 or 8 inches below waist. As will be gathered from the outline of diagram, the skirts are cut sharply over the hips; the total width at bottom of skirt when made would be 4 or 4½ inches. It is arranged with two side pleats at the bottom of side-seams with buttons placed, as previously noted, 1½ inches below the waist seam. The lengths below the waist line are about 2 inches at the side and 3½ in the front. The bottom edge of sidepiece, &c., should be slightly rounded, so as to form one continuous curve when made up and avoid getting points at the seams. This is only a trifle, but it is a trifle often overlooked, the student occasionally drawing a freehand curve from front to back, in some cases even omitting to re-adjust the length of the dart seams to each other. We will now proceed to deal with

As these have a very decided effect on the artistic appearance, it is well to avoid extremes, at the same time bearing in mind what is considered beauty in the female form. Present day ideals point to a very flat back in the region of the blades and a long waist; hence with these points in our mind, we carry the side-seam as high as possible, and keep the sideseam flat but not straight, a kind of deadened curve being best; a bare inch is taken out between the back and side-body at the back scye, and the sidebody is lengthened a little at top to provide in a certain degree for the shortening tendency of seaming; 1 inch is taken out at the Avaist betAveen the back and sidebody, and 1 inch


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128 their own pursuits. He wandered back to the house to look for his mother. As he went round the back, he saw Miriam kneeling in front of the hen-coop, some maize in her hand, biting her lip, and crouching in an intense attitude. The hen was eyeing her wickedly. Very gingerly she put forward her hand. The hen bobbed for her. She drew back quickly with a cry, half of fear, half of chagrin.

“It won’t hurt you,” said Paul.

She flushed crimson and started up.

“I only wanted to try,” she said in a low voice.

“See, it doesn’t hurt,” he said, and, putting only two corns in his palm, he let the hen peck, peck, peck at his bare hand. “It only makes you laugh,” he said.

She put her hand forward, and dragged it away, tried again, and started back with a cry. He frowned.

“Why, I’d let her take corn from my face,” said Paul, “only she bumps a bit. She’s ever so neat. If she wasn’t, look how much ground she’d peck up every day.”

He waited grimly, and watched. At last Miriam let the bird peck from her hand. She gave a little cry—fear, and pain because of fear—rather pathetic. But she had done it, and she did it again.

“There, you see,” said the boy. “It doesn’t hurt, does it?”

She looked at him with dilated dark eyes.

“No,” she laughed, trembling.

Then she rose and went indoors. She seemed to be in some way resentful of the boy.

“He thinks I’m only a common girl,” she thought, and she wanted to prove she was a grand person like the “Lady of the Lake.”

Paul found his mother ready to go home. She smiled on her son. He took the great bunch of flowers. Mr. and Mrs. Leivers walked down the fields with them. The hills were golden with evening; deep in the wood showed the darkening purple of bluebells. It was everywhere perfectly still, save for the rustling of leaves and birds.

“But it is a beautiful place,” said Mrs. Morel.

“Yes,” answered Mr. Leivers; “it’s a nice little place, if only it weren’t for the rabbits. The pasture’s bitten down to nothing. I dunno if ever I s’ll get the rent off it.”

He clapped his hands, and the field broke into motion near the woods, brown rabbits hopping everywhere.

“Would you believe it!” exclaimed Mrs. Morel.


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Every one said said Donald was a "damned good chap." He reminded me of the twelve apostles; I say twelve because I couldn't single out the one that came to my mind when I first set eyes on him at the Laura. I recognized a face I knew; the face came back to me out of the long, long ago, and I puzzled over it till I hit it. "Judas"! Yes!! I remembered it now—Judas! with the beautiful eyes—not the scowling, evil-faced, thick-set German of the cheap illustrated Bible—but W. G. Wills Judas, out of "Charles I," whom the King describes to the traitor Murray, beginning the lines, if I remember aright.

I saw a picture once, by a great master. Yes, that was Donald, and he ought to have been roaming about the Laura in a toga and halo; but wore instead an old pair of what had once been grey trousers, very patched and ragged round the bottoms—old blucher boots burst out where the little toe of the right foot should have been. I never saw the toe, but I presume it was there—for the sake of argument we will say it was there—and a smile—a soft, undecided sort of smile. He also wore a white cotton coat, or what had once been a white coat, and a faded cabbage-tree hat. Donald, like Judas, had his price, which, with the characteristic of his race, was generally as much as he could get—for Donald kept a store at the Laura, and also the pub, which he dignified by the name of "York Peninsular Hotel."

I never heard Donald laugh but once. He was a solemn man; he'd a high forehead, soft dark eyes, and a patriarchal beard. He laughed once when we all were sitting around the table at "supper," in the back roped space behind the pub, and I describing how

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92 coming down from Mayburn with the women, he overtook the coach in which were two old women in their way to Cooktown.

We all camped at Shepherd's Creek, Graham's place (Graham the teamster). Here he kept a large back-roofed slab building also called a hotel (he bought poor MacDowell out just before that worthy dropped down dead), into which we were all glad to turn. Soon after our arrival the rain came down in torrents. The warden was sandwiched in a little partitioned space between the two old women, who slept in one bed together, and Graham's old woman and daughter-in-law, who slept in another just the other side of him. One of the old women was the German wife of the German Accommodation House keeper (another hotel) at Maytown.

The poor warden, dead tired, couldn't get a wink of sleep, for he lay between, and was the recipient of the whispered confidences of the four women. The two old Maytown women discussed and pulled to pieces in the usual feminine way a young woman who recently arrived at Maytown, and created a stir in that almost God-forgotten place. They left the poor girl without a shred to her back or to her reputation, the conversation ending with a parting shot from the German frau, who clinched all matters relating to the new arrival with "Vaal, she stoppit met me at my hause, ven she coom up mit der coach, and I vas zee all vat she haf got, und she may haf dree vite dressis, but she haf no chemeeses, ain't it."

Donald lifted his arm above his head, bringing his fist down with a bang on the table that made everything jump.

"Chemeeses! My God, Chemeeses!" cried Donald and let a roar out of him that startled the dog and set all the parrots, in a huge home-made cage, screeching.

Donald's wife was on a jaunt, at the time, in Cooktown, at the races on her way home from Herberton,

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Rh between the sidebody and sidepiece, and 1 inch between the sidepiece and forepart; when the remainder necessary to reduce the waist to measure is taken out in darts, allowing 1½ to 2 inches for seams at the waist. The narrowness of the back at waist necessitates the sideseam being drawn freehand, and having located it in that way to measure back from 12 to 11 one inch, and dividing the distance from 11 to 3½ into two equal or nearly equal parts, following the usual plan of making both sidebody and sidepiece each half an inch narrower at waist-band than on the depth of scye line. The spring over the hips is not so pronounced as for ladies' costume bodice, &c., but this is not so noticeable now as it would have been in the days of more prominent bustles, &c. We will now give a few

A waist-band is invariably placed at the waist, and firmly secured to the seams at the back and side, below which tabs are placed with either eyes or eyelets in them, at parts to agree with fastenings placed in the train; usually they are placed one at the centre of back and one on either side at hips, the object of course being to secure the train. The bottom part of bodice is faced with the same material as the outside, about 2 inches deep at front and sides, and continuing straight across the back skirts; and in putting the facing in the back skirts, it should be put in rather short, so that the tails shall curl inwards. Whalebones are placed at all the seams (unless the customer objects), none of which should come higher than the top of breast darts, or lower than within half an inch of the bottom; the bones should be put in as long as possible, curving the garment to the shape of the figure previously to fastening them, which should be done at top, middle, and bottom, the casings being made from silesia on the bias, and care must be exercised in sewing them to the seams, and full them on over the waist.

If, as is usually the case, it is made to fasten with holes and buttons, it will be necessary to add on a button stand as illustrated on diagram, and for this purpose add ½an inch on the button hole side, and 1 inch or more on the button side; this allows of the holes coming exactly in the centre of the figure, and the extra button stand hides any possibility of the underclothing peeping through the ends of the holes. It will be advisable to put a V of silk in the button stand, as shown on the waist line, which allows it to go nicely to the figure at that part, and prevents any dragging tendency. The buttons are put closer together than was formerly done, which we think is an improvement. If made with stand collar the collar has hooks and eyes placed at the top to keep it fastened. We recently had the opportunity of inspecting a Habit made for a very stylish young lady by the celebrated firm of Wolmerhausen & Co., it had an interlining over the back and forepart of horse-hair, which kept it very firm above where the corsets reached; it was lined through with silk, pleats were placed in the forepart lining opposite the prominence of the bust, and another vertically, as is now generally done in vests, running from shoulder downwards, and allowing ample scope for it to adjust itself, whilst, of course, it was put in very long at the waist section all round. Needless to remark, the sleeve linings were flash-baisted to the seams, both forearm and hindarm, and two or three small pieces of dommett serged to the scye seams on the top of the shoulder to facilitate the distribution of fulness in the sleeve head, and at the same time produce as good form as possible.

It may be important to give a few particulars with reference to

Mostly used, as this work will most probably be consulted by many young men undertaking the order for a Riding Habit for the first time. The usual material is a heavy Melton, more generally black, but by no means always so, browns, greens, plum colours, &c., all being largely used. Occasionally we see one of grey Worsted, and now and then a drab Tweed, but both of these are the exception, and may for all practical purposes be ignored, for there can be no doubt Melton is regarded as the Habit cloth. For Summer wear Vicunas and Twill Saxonies are often used; but these have such a marked resemblance to the Melton, that Ave might almost put them in the same class, being only thinner. The edges are either single or double stitched, and in the case of the better Meltons the edges are left raw.

The quantity of material required for a Habit Bodice is about 1¼ yards; the train taking 2½ to 2¾; but we deal with that in another section.

Calling one day on Mr. George Smith, the celebrated Ladies' Tailor of South Molton Street, we were shown some fine specimens of Ladies' Tailoring, and amongst them the new Habit, the details of which, as he pointed them out to us, we took note of, and have embodied in the figure and diagram. They were made straight round the hips, and cut away in the front from just below the waist, just showing a little of the fancy vest of hunting pattern, which invariably accompanies this style. The lapels were somewhat heavy and opened rather low, above which the vest showed, introducing a little brightness to the dull colour of the bodice. The


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Rh where Donald himself had been the previous year.

I never heard Donald laugh since.

This is where Donald's wife comes in: A rather dominant women with a napoleonic nose, and a look in her hair as if she had been down South a bit trying the "fachons." There was a suspicion of "Titian Red" gone wrong about it, and it looked dusty and dull, with dark patches on the temples and back of the neck, where it was brushed up and put in a "bun." There was also in connection with it, an elaborately curled bunch of uniform colored hair that was given the place of an honored guest in the "front." She wasn't a bad sort though, and usually wore loose wrappers of cotton print, somehow suggesting the ladies one sees standing in the doorways of East Lansdale Street, Melbourne, in the vicinity of the Theatre round the corner, and handy to the "pub" and Parliament House.

But I got interested in the woman, for close to my tent were two little graves, which every evening she used to go and visit with her children. The graves were fenced in from the goats; a few dried-up flowers grew on them, and, under the small mounds in the open, solitary bush, lay all that was left of two little children, who had once been hers.

I used to sit and weave romances round her and the solitary graves—forgetting all about the Titian red of her hair—only seeing the good in the woman, and thinking of the broken-hearted mother.

I asked the "Sub's" wife about it all, and the little thin big-eyed woman got quite pathetic, and told me all the sad story, and I went to my camp and dreamed dreams and wrote a couplet about the dead babies.

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94 I thought I would give the verse to the bereaved mother, and so watched for her the following evening to come to the graves. She had only arrived at the "Laura" the day before from the South, where she had been for a change to Herberton, after the stinging heat of the Summer. Now Herberton has an annual "show," which is the event of Northern Queenstown and supplies topics of conversation to the common folk for a year, until it comes around again.

This year Mrs. Donald was looked up to as a wonderful person, for she had been there. The Duke and Duchess of York's visit paled before the home-coming of Mrs. Donald at the "Laura."

The sun dipped in the West, throwing a red glow over the land, but the shadows were all cast from the East, where the stronger light of a great big full moon rose slowly and majestically shining through the crooked-bowed ironbark trees, standing out like cut patterns in cardboard, all painted black. The silver light made the earth mystical, and the air was full of the loud far-off sounding shrillness of myriad insects, that the coming night or sinking sun had wakened. A solitary chirrup-chirrup close to my tent—the soft call of a dove to its mate from the trees in full bloom, whose delicate scent came to me on the gently-moving soft night air—the screech a long way off of a cockatoo—and the distance deadened tinkle of the bells of hobbled horses, were all the sounds to be heard until presently through the long grey grass came the z-z-z-rup—z-z-z-rup of a woman's dress.

I looked towards the sound and saw a figure advancing to the little graves. The moment seemed sacred; it was the unhappy mother; and I took the pipe from my lips and muttered with reverence, "Fidelium animoe defanctis; per misercordiam Dei requiescat in pace."

I felt a little choking in my throat; and the tears came up in my eyes while I watched the lonely figure

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Rh lean her arm upon the white rails and gaze into space. I went back to my tent for the verse I had written, meaning to hand it to the bereaved mother when she had come to the front of the tent, and saw the still motionless figure standing at the graves. She had not moved. I thought I knew what was passing in her mind. I remembered the heart-ache I had suffered when one I loved was almost taken from me. I had gone through the agony of it all—I had suffered—and I knew how she was suffering now. I could not see so far away, in the moonlight, but I pictured the hot tears trickling down the poor pained face—and for a moment she seemed transformed—she was beautiful. I had been standing for perhaps a minute watching, when, between me and the moonlight, I became conscious of a moving object. It was all in white—almost ghostlike—and it glided across the Police paddock in the soft, yielding, unsounding sand, so silently it seemed almost unreal. I looked steadily and recognized the thin frail figure of the "Sub's" wife. She glided on and on—past the rough turnstile in the wire fence of the paddock, and into the long grass, and towards the solitary figure at the graves. It was a solemn moment. These two devoted women—in the solitary bush—a thousand miles from any city—the one sorrowing, the other, in her womanly way, coming out into the night to comfort her.

And the two stood in the soft, silver light, alone! The moon shone gloriously—the silence had grown intense—for the birds were roosting, and the insects dumb, and the horse bells silent.

God was over all!

Suddenly the stillness was broken. A rather harsh voice mingled in exclamations of delight with a little soft one:

"Well, I declare! I didn't know you were back."

"I've had the time of my life. Herberton was simply great. And you know Emma's not going to

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96 marry Tom; but—she's engaged to another chap."

"No! You don't say."

"Yes, she is. She's going to marry the one they call the 'greasy bounder at the Bank.'"

Then they drifted into "gussets" and "placquets," and "the sleeves ain't worn full any more now" was the last I heard as I turned into my tent, tore up the verse I held in my hand, and, lighting my pipe with it, I strolled over to Donald's pub and told him the "chemise" story over again—at which he was just going to roar, but stopped suddenly, and looked through the open door towards the graves of his little ones. Then we heard the "square-faced" and a half-drunken digger from Ebayoolah start singing on the verandah outside:

"She was h-all—me—fancee—pinted 'er."

"Ho! 'hi never shall forgit!"

"Ho—"

I put down the glass.

"So long, Donald."

"So long Chemeeses! Lordy! Lordy! cheemeses! Brings back old times! I ain't seen a chemees since last Herb—"

I didn't hear the last of Donald's sentence. I often wondered whether Mrs. Donald did. I passed her with a "Good-night," afterwards, from the shanty door—for Donald never smiled again that I saw.

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Rh She and Paul went on alone together. “Wasn’t it lovely, mother?” he said quietly.

A thin moon was coming out. His heart was full of happiness till it hurt. His mother had to chatter, because she, too, wanted to cry with happiness.

“Now wouldn’t I help that man!” she said. “Wouldn’t I see to the fowls and the young stock! And I’d learn to milk, and I’d talk with him, and I’d plan with him. My word, if I were his wife, the farm would be run, I know! But there, she hasn’t the strength—she simply hasn’t the strength. She ought never to have been burdened like it, you know. I’m sorry for her, and I’m sorry for him too. My word, if I’d had him, I shouldn’t have thought him a bad husband! Not that she does either; and she’s very lovable.”

William came home again with his sweetheart at the Whitsuntide. He had one week of his holidays then. It was beautiful weather. As a rule, William and Lily and Paul went out in the morning together for a walk. William did not talk to his beloved much, except to tell her things from his boyhood. Paul talked endlessly to both of them. They lay down, all three, in a meadow by Minton Church. On one side, by the Castle Farm, was a beautiful quivering screen of poplars. Hawthorn was dropping from the hedges; penny daisies and ragged robin were in the field, like laughter. William, a big fellow of twenty-three, thinner now and even a bit gaunt, lay back in the sunshine and dreamed, while she fingered with his hair. Paul went gathering the big daisies. She had taken off her hat; her hair was black as a horse’s mane. Paul came back and threaded daisies in her jet-black hair—big spangles of white and yellow, and just a pink touch of ragged robin.

“Now you look like a young witch-woman,” the boy said to her. “Doesn’t she, William?”

Lily laughed. William opened his eyes and looked at her. In his gaze was a certain baffled look of misery and fierce appreciation.

“Has he made a sight of me?” she asked, laughing down on her lover.

“That he has!” said William, smiling.

He looked at her. Her beauty seemed to hurt him. He glanced at her flower-decked head and frowned.

“You look nice enough, if that’s what you want to know,” he said.

And she walked without her hat. In a little while William 9


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20 vests were mostly finished in the jockey style of step stand collar, and were often made from the vesting worn by the particular limit the lady mostly attended. It is unnecessary for us to go through the system as all the details are clearly illustrated in the diagram. The hack is made rather narrow and the teams adjusted accordingly, but both this and the general outline can be easily gathered from diagram 27, and if an explanation of the system is desired, it can be got by referring to either the jacket or the bodice. Before quitting the Habits, it will be as well to say a few words on the other

Sometimes a lady is to be seen with her Riding Habit made in the Newmarket style: then another has the part below the waist arranged as a gent's Dress Coat; some others have the same same style as illustrated on figure 26, but with the corners rounded off: and in many other countless little details variations of style are introduced. It is the exception, however, to see a habit bodice braided, indeed, it is so seldom that it gives the impression that it is one that has been laid by for a generation, and has been handed down from mother to daughter. Possibly in the future, braiding on Riding Habit Bodices, may be re-introduced but for the present it is obsolete.

We must not omit to mention the little girl's Riding Bodice, seeing that so many are to be seen in the park of a morning. The almost universal style for girls, between the age of six and sixteen, is the Norfolk Bodice; of this jacket we have previously treated in detail in this section, and as the only special feature to be noticed for these girls, is the absence of breast and the comparatively large waist, both of which features would be clearly brought out by the measures taken, it will be unnecessary for us to do more than refer our readers to a few pages back, where the Norfolk Bodice is fully treated.

It is sometimes argued that we only take the truly proportionate figure to illustrate the workings of the various systems we publish, and doubtless this is to a certain extent true, as we look upon it as highly essential that the cutter should form an accurate idea of what is a truly proportionate pattern. But of course that is not enough; he must know how to provide for all ages and all kinds of disproportion, and our object at present is to help him in his treatment of at least one phase of this that is often met with.

Turning over the pages of our order book to select a set of measures by which to draw the diagram to illustrate this, we come across the following: 8½ scye depth, 15 natural waist, 22 full length, 7 across back, 19½ elbow, 28 sleeve, 8¾ across chest, 9¾ across bust, 12¾ front shoulder, 16½ over shoulder, 8½ neck, 13½ nape to nipple, 18½ nape to bottom of waist, 44 chest, 31 waist. The lady was one of those figures which, though past the prime of life, yet was by no means a badly made figure, and such as may often be met with in daily practice. The waist was clearly defined and the bust well developed; she might fitly be described as plump, short and rather stout. A glimpse at the measures would soon convince even the inexperienced cutter, that some more reliable method of fixing the depth of scye than a division of the breast would be necessary: 44 breast and 15 natural waist would not at all meet that method; yet this is a very fair example of the measurements found in actual practice. It is a somewhat remarkable fact that the length of the natural waist varies very slightly: from 14 to 15 seems to embrace the entire range, and often when the figure gets stouter the waist gets shorter; hence in ordinary figures, it will more often be found that the natural waist measures 14½ than 15½. It will also be noticed how small all the shoulder measures are in relation to the chest, as compared with the normal 34; at the same time they are very much more square—both features usually found in the large size male figure, but in not so pronounced a degree as is here illustrated.

Of this diagram, apart from the points we have already noted, and which would be fully allowed for in the working of the system as previously described, are the number of darts and the arrangement of the seams of the sidepieces, &c. The sideseam, as outlined by 4, 2¾ and 3¾, is made as long as possible, so as to give the effect of length: whilst the sidepieces, being all cut narrow, also greatly facilitate this effect. One inch is taken out between all the parts at the waist, and so as to reduce the forepart to the size of waist without taking out very large darts, a third one is brought into play, which has a very much better effect: for, while adding length to the general appearance, it facilitates the fit over the hips, and enables a sufficient receptacle for the bust to be formed very much easier. It will be noticed that we still retain the straight front edge; indeed, we deem it of greater importance for figures of this class than the normal; as any excess of length in the front edge would now show itself in a sort of frill at that part. It will be observed that we have added 1 inch to the front shoulder measure, instead of ¾ as laid down previously; our reason for doing so being to provide for the prominence, for the more that is added in this way the greater


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130 recovered, and was rather tender to her. Coming to a bridge, he carved her initials and his in a heart. She watched his strong, nervous hand, with its glistening hairs and freckles, as he carved, and she seemed fascinated by it.

All the time there was a feeling of sadness and warmth, and a certain tenderness in the house, whilst William and Lily were at home. But often he got irritable. She had brought, for an eight-days’ stay, five dresses and six blouses.

“Oh, would you mind,” she said to Annie, “washing me these two blouses, and these things?”

And Annie stood washing when William and Lily went out the next morning. Mrs. Morel was furious. And sometimes the young man, catching a glimpse of his sweetheart’s attitude towards his sister, hated her.

On Sunday morning she looked very beautiful in a dress of foulard, silky and sweeping, and blue as a jay-bird’s feather, and in a large cream hat covered with many roses, mostly crimson. Nobody could admire her enough. But in the evening, when she was going out, she asked again:

“Chubby, have you got my gloves?”

“Which?” asked William.

“My new black suède.”

“No.”

There was a hunt. She had lost them.

“Look here, mother,” said William, “that’s the fourth pair she’s lost since Christmas—at five shillings a pair!”

“You only gave me two of them,” she remonstrated.

And in the evening, after supper, he stood on the hearth-rug whilst she sat on the sofa, and he seemed to hate her. In the afternoon he had left her whilst he went to see some old friend. She had sat looking at a book. After supper William wanted to write a letter.

“Here is your book, Lily,” said Mrs. Morel. “Would you care to go on with it for a few minutes?”

“No, thank you,” said the girl. “I will sit still.”

“But it is so dull.”

William scribbled irritably at a great rate. As he sealed the envelope he said:


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Author:Charles Robert Gibson

Works

 * The Romance of: Modern Electricity. (1906)
 * Electricity of To-Day. (1907)
 * Scientific Ideas of To-Day. (1909)
 * The Romance of: Modern Manufacture. (1910)

title: Author:Charles Robert Gibson


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Rh will be made for the busts. The length from nape to prominence is applied as per dotted line, always adding 1 inch to the actual length taken on the figure, to compensate the seams on the shoulder. The same also applies to the waist line, which in this case drops a little in the front, and which drop commences from the side. We have found great difference to exist in the run of the waist line; some ladies are very "embonpoint," whilst others are very flat. With the former the waist generally runs up, whilst with the latter it runs down; hence a measure to exactly locate this will be found a great assistance. The lower termination of the darts must of course be arranged in accordance with the figure, but under any circumstances it will generally be found preferable to make it rather too tight than too loose, as the bones, &c., in the front keep it from riding up round the waist.

Few remarks require to be made under this head after what we said for the normal Dress Bodice, as it nearly all applies with equal force to either large or small sizes, with the exception, perhaps, of wadding and padding, which we left as an open question. But in figures such as we are dealing with, it should be carefully avoided; indeed, anything which has a tendency to make the figure—which is already too big—appear larger, should be avoided; and although many ladies of this class of figure make comfort and ease the first consideration, yet, as a general rule, it will be found they very much prefer a garment too small to one too large.

The stand of the collar should not be made too deep, neither should there be too much fulness in the sleeve heads, but we shall deal with the sleeves as we proceed, taking one of this size as an example. Although we are showing the working of the system by means of a Dress Bodice, yet as far as the principles of fit are concerned, they would be applied in the same manner to Jackets, Ulsters and Dolmans, the variations in style being produced by altering the position of the seams, and increasing in a more or less degree the allowance for making.

{{c|{{larger|Vests.}} {{c|'''Dias. 29 to 34. Figs 27 and 28. Plate 16.'''}} Ladies' Vests have become so popular during the past few years, that we now regard them as a prominent feature in ladies' attire. Up till recently, however, they have more generally been imitations or false vests, fastened to the foreparts or inside of the jacket or bodice with which they were worn, and as they still continue to be worn in this style it will be necessary for us to give instructions on the mode of cutting and making

{{c|{{larger|'''Sham Vests. Diagrams 29, 30, 34.'''}}}} These are extremely simple in their construction. and as they admit of considerable variety being introduced into the costume, we doubt not they will long continue popular. The way to cut them is to take the patterns of forepart and back of jacket as illustrated on diagram 30; mark round the gorge and front edge, and mark A B C as wide or narrow as taste may dictate. They are then made up with the usual stand collar and holes and buttons, and then fastened into the bodice, either by means of basting, holes and buttons, or such mode of securing it as may be preferred. In this way the lady may have several different vests, and so introduce considerable variety in her costume.

In diagram 29 the collar and turn is laid on the forepart in addition to the ordinary stand collar. It is cut by placing the back and forepart together, and marking from B to A by the point from where the turn is intended to start, and round to the centre of the back neck; the depth of the collar and the general outline of the lapel is then arranged to taste. A seam is left as from A to B, illustrated by dotted line, to allow of its being sewn on and turned over. This style of laid-on collar and lapel at once gives the idea of a vest, and if the three-corner piece A C B is put in of different material, this is brought out more prominently. In diagram 34 the forepart is really made up of two pieces instead of one, the part from A to B forwards being made of fancy material, and the seam from A to B hidden by means of the revers. There are many other ways in which Sham Vests are adapted to both Jackets and Costumes, but we need not describe them in detail, as the same principle applies to them all, and doubtless our readers will find these remarks quite sufficient to guide them in their Production, so we will proceed to deal with Vests when made and worn as separate garments. We will give two styles, both of which are very popular at present, as illustrations of the style-of Vest dealt with in the diagrams.

{{c|{{larger|'''The System. Diagram 32.'''}}}} We have not given any special instructions for measuring, as the ordinary bodice measures will do well, with the addition of length to opening and full length taken from nape. Commence at top of back, and draw lines W 2½, W 15½; from W to 8¼ is the depth of scye; continue to 15½ the natural waist length, and come in 2 inches, and draw line from W to 2, which finds the back seam from W to 2½ is one-sixth neck, from which point


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Rh “Read a book! Why, she’s never read a book in her life!”

“Oh, go along!” said Mrs. Morel, cross with the exaggeration.

“It’s true, mother—she hasn’t,” he cried, jumping up and taking his old position on the hearthrug. “She’s never read a book in her life.”

“ ’Er’s like me,” chimed in Morel. “ ’Er canna see what there is i’ books, ter sit borin’ your nose in ’em for, nor more can I.”

“But you shouldn’t say these things,” said Mrs. Morel to her son.

“But it’s true, mother—she can’t read. What did you give her?”

“Well, I gave her a little thing of Annie Swan’s. Nobody wants to read dry stuff on Sunday afternoon.”

“Well, I’ll bet she didn’t read ten lines of it.”

“You are mistaken,” said his mother.

All the time Lily sat miserably on the sofa. He turned to her swiftly.

“Did you read any?” he asked.

“Yes, I did,” she replied.

“How much?”

“I don’t know how many pages.”

“Tell me one thing you read.”

She could not.

She never got beyond the second page. He read a great deal, and had a quick, active intelligence. She could understand nothing but love-making and chatter. He was accustomed to having all his thoughts sifted through his mother’s mind; so, when he wanted companionship, and was asked in reply to be the billing and twittering lover, he hated his betrothed.

“You know, mother,” he said, when he was alone with her at night, “she’s no idea of money, she’s so wessel-brained. When she’s paid, she’ll suddenly buy such rot as marrons glacés, and then I have to buy her season-ticket, and her extras, even her underclothing. And she wants to get married, and I think myself we might as well get married next year. But at this rate——”

“A fine mess of a marriage it would be,” replied his mother. “I should consider it again, my boy.”

“Oh, well, I’ve gone too far to break off now,” he said, “and so I shall get married as soon as I can.”

“Very well, my boy. If you will, you will, and there’s no


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22 come up ¾; sweep from point 1 by half the over shoulder measure, and measure from ¾ to O S one-fourth breast measure {i.e., the half breast) plus ½ inch, which finds the width of shoulder; now measure from 1 to O at bottom of scye, half the breast plus ¾ inch, and from 2 to 9¼ the half waist plus ½ inch, and complete the outline of back as shown. It will be noticed the bottom part of the back is cut separately; this is done with the view of providing sufficient spring over the hips; 1 inch is taken out at waist line as shown, and the sides sprung out as diagram shows. This skirt is generally cut about 2 inches wide. We now come to

Continue the lines 8¼, 15½, right across; square down from O, and hollow the side of forepart at waist 1 inch. Now measure across from O to 9¾, ¾ inch more than the half breast measure; then measure back from this point to 2 the across chest measure, less ½ inch, measuring back from Of; now sweep from this point 2¼ by the front shoulder measure, less the width of back neck, to find point F; then add ¾ to this, and sweep again from 9¾, and locate the neck point where these two arcs intersect each other. Now measure from 1 to O S on the back; deduct the amount from the over shoulder measure, and sweep by the remainder from 2¼, but putting the finger on the tape about 1½ inches above 2½; measure from F to D one-fourth breast plus ¼ inch. The scye may now be completed, keeping it very hollow just above 2¼. Mark out from F to X V one-sixth neck, and draw a line from X V through 9¾ to find the run of the front. The waist is now suppressed to size by means of darts, allowing about 1 inch for the seams; it only now remains to fix the length, which, in the absence of any measure being taken, should be made about 3½ inches below the line of waist at front, and 2 at the sides, but if a measure of length has been taken, use it and allow 1 inch for making up. The Vest is now complete if only intended to hook an 1 eye, but if it is intended to button, add on a button-stand of £ inch as shown on diagram 31.

These may be produced in the same way as for gents, and in the case of no collar being sewn on, it will be necessary to cut at least ½ inch on in the hollow of gorge, so that it will come as high up the neck as if it had a collar. We show the two leading styles both by figures and diagrams, which will be sufficient to illustrate both the cutting and the style of the finished garment. It will be noticed in diagram which illustrates the D.B. Vest that the lapel is sewn on; this is not absolutely necessary, but is done more with the view of giving effect, though it will not produce a better fit; there is ¾ inch taken out between the forepart and lapel, which may be done as a fish, or the lapel cut off entirely. The outline of the lapel being entirely a matter of taste, it would not be wise for us to lay down any fixed quantities, as circumstances alter the style and outline; but, as a general rule, they should be wider at the chest than the waist, but how ever it is cut, the buttons must be set as far behind the breast line as the eye of the hole is in front.

At the present time double-breasted Vests are very fashionable, some of those in wear being made up with skirts after the style of the Newmarket Bodice, but this is perhaps one of fashion's fleeting fancies.

As a general rule, ladies' Vests are made in the same way as gents'. The back is made from Silesia or Silk, and tapes placed in lieu of buckle and strap to tie it in if necessary. A watch pocket is generally inserted just above the prominence of breast, and occasionally pockets put in at the waist. The foreparts are lined and faced in the usual way, the same as gents', whilst the washing materials are made up without any inter-lining, so as to facilitate the washing, &c. Bones are seldom used in vests, though we sec no reason why they should not be used if desired, as vests are really only slight variations from bodices. These garments are being largely patronised by ladies for equestrienne purposes, many of whom are made from the regular hunt vesting as used by gents, but there is also a great demand for them for ordinary wear.

This is cut the same as the forepart illustrated on diagram 31 and fastened to the side and shoulder seams of the Jacket they are to be worn with. Care must of course be taken to see that the sideseam is arranged in harmony with that of the Jacket, so that if it is made more forward or backward, the width of Vest forepart may also be varied in like manner; but this can easily be arranged by placing the breast line of Jacket on the top of the Vests, and adjusting them together in that way. We have previously referred to these on page 14, so that we will not deal with them further than to point out the opportunity it offers to give effect, by the introduction of different coloured cloth or some ornamental design of braiding, whilst at the same time they allow of a loose-fronted Jacket being worn and kept close to the waist, &c., without its being apparently fastened, the vest holding it secure to the back and sides.


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Rh

{{custom rule|sp10|sp20|co|6|co|6|co|6|sp10|sp20|

{{c|{{x-larger|Section Four.}}}}

{{c|{{larger|Ladies' Ulsters.}}}} {{c|'''Diagram 35, Plate 17. Figure 29, Plate 20.'''}} We will introduce this section with the single-breasted, buttoning-through Ulster, as that probably is the style more than any other patronised by the fair sex. This section is undoubtedly one of the most important in the book, and will probably be referred to more than any of the others, for there must be few tailors, indeed, who do not get an occasional order for a Lady's Ulster, for the ladies have become so thoroughly charmed with the style in which tailors turn out overgarments in general, and Ulsters in particular, that even though they may prefer the flimsy finery of the dressmaker for their costumes, they come to us for their garments of this class. In measuring, it is an advantage to get the full length of side as well as the full length of front from nape, in addition to the measures we have previously explained, and which it will not be necessary for us to again recapitulate, so will at once proceed to deal with

{{c|{{larger|'''The System. Diagram 35.'''}}}} Draw line 0, 2½ ; O C ; to 2½ below ¾ is ⅓ neck ; from O to 2⅝ on back seam is $1/6$, natural waist ; to 8 the depth of scye ; to 15½the natural waist ; to 22 the prominence of hip ; and to C the full length, plus seams : come in from 15½ inch, and draw back seam from O to 1, springing it out below through point 22½, and running through gradually as shown ; curve the back neck by coming up ¾ above 2½. About 2 inches below line 2½ measure the width of back, pins two seams, and curve back scye slightly out to find point 6½, and then draw shoulder seam from ¾ through W. Now measure across from ½ to 20½ the half chest measure, plus 2½ inches for making ; from 20½ measure back to 12½ the across chest measure, or the average between the across chest and across bust measures ; deduct the width of back neck 2½ from front shoulder, 12, and by the remainder, 9½, sweep from 12½ : having done this, add ¾inch to this 9½, making 10¾, and sweep by that from 20½, and wherever these arcs or sweeps intersect each other, locates the neck point F, and from which measure across to V ⅓ neck, and draw breast line from V through 20½. If, however, the lady is flat at the stomach, it will be found advisable to come back ½ inch at waist, as from * to 21½ and draw the remainder of breast line from 20½through 21½. The effect of this will be to make the front slightly round at 20½, which round must lie well worked back over the breast in making up.

Now measure from ½ at 8 to W, deduct that from the over shoulder, and by the remainder sweep from 12½ to find point D, putting the finger on the tape 1½ inches up before sweeping as previously described ; get the width of shoulder by the back, making the front ¼ inch narrower, and shape the scye as shown, keeping it as hollow as possible above 12½ and well above 8. The + at V may be made a pivot to sweep the gorge from F to I. We now come to

{{c|{{larger|The Location of the Seams,}}}} And here we apply much the same method as we adopted with the Jackets, indeed an Ulster is very little different from a long Jacket. Come back from 12½ 1 inch, and divide the distance between ½ and 11½ into 3 parts, equally or nearly so ; make the back from 1 to 3 half what it is from ½ to 4¼, and shape the sideseam as shown, continuing below the waist at right angles ; come in from 3 to 4 1 inch ; make 4 7¼half an inch less than 4¼, 8 ; take out 1 inch between 7¼ 8¼; make 8¼ 11¼ half an inch less than 8, 11½, and take out 1½ inches ; now measure up the waist, and take out the surplus in a dart after allowing 1½ or 2 inches for making up ; the dart should be placed to run parallel with breast line, running rather towards the front at the bottom, and at the waist it should be about 2 inches from the breast line.

{{c|{{larger|The Spring over the Hips.}}}} Measure across from 22½ to 24, and see how that corresponds with the hip measure, and say 3 inches, most probably it will be small ; if it is, add on two-thirds at 6¾ 8½, and one-third at 2 3. The mode of extending the various seams is to draw a line from 3 through 2 for the sidebody ; square down from midway between 7¼ and 8¼, and put half the spring to be located there on either side of H, and then draw a line straight from 7¼ through 6¾, and from 8¼ through 8½ on either side. Now, if you have the length of side and front, use them to get the run of the bottom of skirt ; if you have not got these measures, measure down from the waist line at side 1 inch shorter, and at front 2 inches shorter than the back. Add on a button stand all down the front of 1¼ inches. The finish of the back varies so much, that it is difficult to say which is the most popular ; the diagram illustrates the necessary allowance 1½ inches) for a plain pleat or opening. {{nop}}


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1832.] Milligan and I accompanied him as far as Emu Bay.—On an old road called the Lopham-road, a few miles from the Bay, we measured some Stringy-bark trees, taking their circumference at about 5 feet from the ground. One of these, which was rather hollow at the bottom, and broken at the top, was 49 feet round; another that was solid, and supposed to be 200 feet high, was 41 feet round; and a third, supposed to be 250 feet high, was 55½ feet round. As this tree spread much at the base, it would be nearly 70 feet in circumference at the surface of the ground. My companions spoke to each other, when at the opposite side of this tree to myself, and their voices sounded so distant that I concluded they had inadvertantly left me, to see some other object, and Immediately called to them. They, in answer, remarked the distant sound of my voice, and inquired if I were behind the tree!—When the road through this forest was forming, a man who had only about 200 yards to go, from one company of the work-people to another, lost himself: he called, and was repeatedly answered; but getting further astray, his voice became more indistinct, till it ceased to be heard, and he perished. The largest trees do not always carry up their width in proportion to their height, but many that are mere spars, are 200 feet high.

The following measurement and enumeration of trees growing on two separate acres of ground in the Emu Bay forest, made by the late Henry Hellyer, the Surveyor to the V. D. Land Company, may give some idea of its density.


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24 A facing is generally put down the front right to the bottom, but it is not often taken through the shoulder: the body lining extends usually to line 22½ 24 at hips, and in putting this in, care must be taken to give plenty of length over the waist. The buttons down the front are usually terminated about 24, but tabs and small buttons are often put to fasten the garment below. Carefully press any fulness there may be at the bottom termination of dart well towards the side, as any excess of room or fulness here is to be carefully avoided. The sleeve is generally pitched at the side-seam, and of course the usual care used in putting it in. If any wadding is used at any part, see that it is carefully graded away, so that its existence cannot be detected. The usual precaution of keeping the collar long in the hollow of gorge must not be forgotten, as it applies universally. We will not dwell further on the points to be observed in making, but proceed to deal with

Which illustrate a double-breasted Ulster with lapels sewn on, and foreparts cut across from the bottom of the back dart; it is really more with the view of illustrating this latter phase than any other, we have drawn this diagram, for one of the worst difficulties experienced by all ladies' tailors in these garments, is to get rid of the superfluous material below the waist in front, which invariably locates itself if the front edge has been kept straight, and proper provision made for the breast by means of the darts. We know in practice that suppression at one part causes fulness at another, and if that suppression is done in the form of a fish, it throws fulness both above and below, and as the breasts are usually much more prominent than the stomach, it follows as a natural consequence that there is too much material below the waist in front. There are two ways of avoiding this difficulty. The first is illustrated on diagram 35, and is the one mostly used in the country, and consists of coming back from the straight breast line ½ an inch at the waist, and drawing it through to bottom. This method produces a slightly round front edge, but if the round is only properly drawn in and worked back, and the front edge brought to a straight line, and the fulness pressed back over the breast, it answers satisfactorily. The second method is undoubtedly the best, and is the one mostly used by the ladies' tailors in the West End, and is illustrated on

The body part is got on exactly the same lines as described for diagram 35, with the exception that the front line is drawn straight through from V to 22½, and the waist then suppressed to the necessary size by means of darts. These are terminated about 2½ or 3 inches below the waist line by the foreparts being cut across in a nearly horizontal direction from the front, when the surplus material may then be passed away in the front. It is best to arrange this cut to slant slightly downwards, as it produces a better effect. The lengths on either side of the darts must be adjusted to each other, and this will produce sufficient space for pointing up the overlap beyond the centre line to meet and form a continuation of the lapel as illustrated on diagram. It will be found advisable when cutting D.B. garments of this class to spring the forepart out from the waist line downwards a trifle, taking off at the dart below 21 whatever has been added below 2½}, and in cutting

Use the front edge as the guide for shaping the sewing to edge, and finish to taste. There is no doubt a good deal of style may be introduced by means of the lapel, so it will be well to give it careful attention: it is the almost invariable rule to make it narrow at the waist and wide at chest. We illustrate on the diagram one of the most popular modes of finishing these. Silk facings are put on the lapels: and, as with gentlemen's coats, sometimes the binding is put on the top of the silk, and at others the silk is sewn on the top of the braid and coming to the top of the lapels. We prefer to see the facing put over the braid, but there are many of our best cutters who prefer the other way, so our readers will be able to take their choice.

In all other respects diagram 36 is produced on the same lines as described for diagram 85, so that it will be unnecessary for us to dwell on them here, but at once proceed to deal with some of the

We must first thoroughly understand how to infuse the principles of fitting the figure: and having done this, to vary according to the fashion desired. It is now a generally acknowledged truth that the ladies' tailor must do something more than fit the body. The seams must be located with due regard to harmony and proportion, and, whenever possible, going over the prominences and hollows of the body; for then, plain sewing only is necessary, whereas as soon as the seams are placed on either side of a prominence, then that part which goes beyond the prominence must be fulled on in order to get the receptacle for it in the proper place, but this we have dealt with in the letterpress referring to diagram 35.

Then we have to consider our customers' tastes and


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116 {| align="center"
 * + FIRST ACRE.
 * | 704 || Trees under ||  ||  | 12 || inches || in girth.
 * | 880 || do. .. || | 1 to ||  | 2 || feet || do.
 * | 148 || do. .. || | 2 to ||  | 3 || do. || do.
 * | 56 || do. .. || | 3 to ||  | 6 || do. || do.
 * | 32 || do. .. || | 6 to ||  | 12 || do. || do.
 * | 28 || do. .. || | 12 to ||  | 21 || do. || do.
 * | 8 || do. .. || | 21 ||  | 30 || do. || do.
 * | 8 || do. .. ||  ||  | 30 || feet and upwards
 * | 112 || Tree Ferns.
 * | 1,976 || Total.
 * }
 * | 28 || do. .. || | 12 to ||  | 21 || do. || do.
 * | 8 || do. .. || | 21 ||  | 30 || do. || do.
 * | 8 || do. .. ||  ||  | 30 || feet and upwards
 * | 112 || Tree Ferns.
 * | 1,976 || Total.
 * }
 * | 112 || Tree Ferns.
 * | 1,976 || Total.
 * }
 * | 1,976 || Total.
 * }
 * }
 * }
 * }

22nd. We spent the day with a young man who had charge of the Emu Bay Stores.—In walking on a hill in the forest, we fell in with the trunk of a White Gum, nearly 100 feet long, and of such even circumference that it was not easy to determine which end had grown uppermost: it was rather the thickest in the middle. It had been broken off at about 15 feet from its base, and precipitated upon its top, which had been broken to shivers, and the trunk making a somerset, and shooting forward down the hill, had made a vista through the scrub.—In the forest here, we found a curious epiphyte of the orchis tribe, afterwards named Gunnia australis. Epiphytes are so called because they grow upon other trees, without becoming incorporated with them. This was growing upon the branches of the larger shrubs, especially upon Coprosma spinosa, which last has small, red and rather insipid berries, that are sometimes preserved, under the name of Native Currants.

In the neighbourhood of Emu Bay, there are rocks of felspar, or of quartz, of a reddish colour, and there are traces of granite in this vicinity, as well as at the Hampshire Hills, but the country is chiefly basaltic.—Sometimes, when large trees are blown over, they bring up portions of slender, basaltic columns with their roots. Much of the earth in the forests is rich, red, basaltic loam.

23rd. We assembled the assigned servants, to whom J. Milligan read a portion of Scripture, after which I


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1832.] spoke to them on the importance of securing the salvation of their souls.—This proved an awakening time to a poor prisoner, who died some years after at Launceston, in a hopeful state of mind.

While here, we saw some fires, at a distance, to the eastward, along the coast, which were supposed to be those of lime-burners; but I felt no mental attraction toward them, at which I was surprised. On afterwards ascertaining that they were the fires of a few natives, who showed hostility, by spearing one of the servants of the Company, I could not but regard this as a mercy from Him, who can keep his dependent children out of danger, as well as preserve them when in it.

24th. We returned to the Hampshire Hills. On the way I ascended the trunk of a prostrate Stringy-bark, by climbing a small Black-wood tree. The Stringy-bark having laid long on the ground, was covered with moss and ferns: it measured 200 feet, to the first branches, where the trunk was about 12 feet in circumference. It was amusing to look down from the butt of this tree, upon my friend, who was on horseback below. We also measured some White Gums, supposed to be 180 feet high, which varied from 30 to 35 feet in circumference. While taking tea, our attention was arrested by a noise like a peal of thunder, which proved to have been occasioned by the fall of a lofty tree, at the distance of half a mile!

28th. We came to Chilton last night, and this morning ascended the mountain called St. Valentines Peak, which is probably 4,000 feet above the level of the sea, the Surrey Hills, from which it rises, being upwards of 2,000. It is of whitish, silicious conglomerate. The imbedded pebbles are small and rounded: some are translucent, and of various appearance, from that of semi-opal to flint; others are opaque, and white, red, or scarlet. The Myrtle forest extends part of the way up one side of the mountain, and is so thick and difficult to pass through, that though the distance is only six miles from the Hampshire Hills, the road taken to reach it, is sixteen. In the line between these places there are some scrubs, so tangled that to cross them, a person must travel among their


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118 branches at many feet above the ground. The sides of the Peak are clothed with shrubs, among which are, a low dense species of Richea and Cystanthe sprengelloides. The upper part is scantily covered with herbage, and is rocky: it commands a very extensive and remarkable view. The north coast is visible near Port Sorell. The Cradle Mountain, Barn Bluff, and lower parts of the Western Tier, bound the prospect on the east. Numerous mountains are visible to the south; and, on the west, the sea is seen, through a few openings among the hills. The whole, except the sea, the projecting rocks, and a few small, open tracts of land, such as the Hampshire Hills, Goderich Plains, &c. is one vast sombre forest; the open parts of which, having from 10 to 30 trees per acre, are not distinguishable from those that are denser, except in colour.—The dogs belonging to some of the company, killed a Black Opossum, and we destroyed two small snakes, with minute, venom-fangs. Two Wedge-tailed Eagles, called in the colony Eagle Hawks, shewed a disposition to carry off a little dog; but he kept close to us for safety. In approaching the Peak, we crossed some wet land, covered with Bog Moss, Sphagnum, of the same kind that occurs in England.

29th. Notwithstanding it is now midsummer, the weather is cold with hail and sleet. The climate here is much colder than that of the coast. We rode to a plain called, The Race Course; on which there is a hut, from whence one of the native Blacks was shot last year, by a young man who, when alone, observed one of them approaching slyly and beckoning to his fellows in the adjacent wood. A hut in the neighbourhood had been attacked by them a few days before, and a man killed; several others had also been speared. The young man that shot the Black became depressed, almost to derangement, at the idea of having prematurely terminated the existence of a fellow-creature.

30th. We remained at Chilton till to-day, for the purpose of having a meeting with the few servants of the Company. In the afternoon, we had also a religious interview with three men at a place named Wey-bridge; after which we returned to the Hampshire Hills.


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Rh wishes, for we must remember we are making the garment for them, and as it must always he our aim to please them, we should lay ourselves out to understand what they wish; and though customers will sometimes ask for garments quite unsuitable to their form, still, if they have fully made up their minds, the best course for us to adopt will be to modify the style in such a way as to make it as far as possible in harmony with the figure. It is in this way the tailor with taste and artistic talent shows his skill, in sending forth his customers in becoming garments. When they come to him with their minds fixed on a certain style, if it is unsuitable they can modify it by the material and trimming; or, if they have decided on material, he can reduce the unbecoming nature of the pattern by the infusion of a style having an opposite tendency. The styles we have selected to illustrate the varieties of Ladies' Ulsters are

And the Cross-over Front. The former is very popular just at present, and as we pointed out in dealing with Ladies' Jackets, the front must be straight, that is, the hi east line, but as the Costume Skirts are worn so close-fitting at present, and ladies' breasts being invariably more prominent than their stomachs, we have left a little curve just at the top from 20½ to V, owing to the difficulty experienced in avoiding superfluous material on the stomach (see diagram); but, wherever possible, this round should be drawn in, and the fulness well pressed back on to the breast. To accomplish this, it will be advisable to take out a V at the top of the breast line, and cut the lapel a trifle short. But when the garment is intended to turn high up, it will be better to omit the V, the tendency of which is to shorten the outside edge. As will be noticed, the fish is omitted from the forepart at waist. But when it is desired to have the garment very close-fitting at the sides, a fish is taken out as per dotted lines; and when dealing with a figure with prominent breasts, it will be very advantageous in providing extra room at that part. We should, however, advise this to be left till the trying on, as it does not suit all types alike. Then the one side can be pinned up on the figure, and judgment brought to bear as to which produces the effect desired in the best way, and arrange accordingly.

Is a style which seems more than likely to become a prominent feature in fashionable Ulsters. When trimmed with fur, as shown on our illustration, it is very effective. The diagram is self-explanatory in this case, and shows how the overlapping part is added on; and though these garments are generally made close-fitting, still a moderate looseness at the waist rather adds to than detracts from their beauty. The under forepart is generally cut to the breast line only, and a series of hooks and eyes put down to fasten it at that part, so that an ornamental clasp or button at the side will be quite sufficient to fasten it. This will be readily understood by a reference to the figure and diagram. We will now direct attention to the

Necessary for Dolmans and Winged Cloaks. As they will form the subject of another section, a reference to diagram 37 will show the plan adopted, viz., continuing the sideseam right through to the scye point of shoulder of back, which part is added to the sidebody when sleeves are worn under the wing, but more frequently the forepart and sidebody are cut away at the scye, when all that is necessary will be to make a mark on the back where the sidebody is to begin, in order to retain the balance. This, however, is a feature which more correctly comes within the scope of the section on Dolmans, though of course that is no reason why, if customers so desired it, the sideseam should not terminate at the point of, or half way across, the shoulder seam; indeed, this feature was very prominently brought out in the fashions of a few years ago, and may be revived at any time.

There are doubtless many other variations we might dwell on in reference to ladies' Ulsters, but we will conclude this section by a few remarks on

In their various styles of S.B. and D.B., as they are so very popular at present. These are cut on exactly the same lines as laid down for Newmarket Jackets, and which our readers will find fully described in the section treating of Jackets. All that requires to be done is to extend the skirt to the length desired. It will always be well for the cutter to bear in mind that the ladies' Ulster does not bear the same relation to the ladies' Jacket, that the Chesterfield does to the Lounge for gentlemen; on the contrary, the ladies' Ulster is in reality nothing more than a very long Jacket, preferably cut a trifle easier on account of it being often made from thicker material and being more used in Winter when thicker underclothing is being worn.

We must now turn our attention to sleeves, as they play such an important part in Dolman cutting; and before we proceed to describe the method of producing them we must fully explain the sleeve problem.


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hopes of being soon released from that detestable city without a stain on my character; of leaving its barbarous ihabitants full of sadness at my departure, and lost in admiration of my exalted and multitudinous virtues, which it was not possible for them to emulate; of being able, by one of those sudden and unaccountable fortuitous events which sometimes, to our intense astonishment, change the fate of individuals and of nations, to help my valued and beloved friend Doctor Julius to effect his escape also, were now scattered by one tremendous convulsion to the four winds of heaven. I solemnly cursed my evil genius a thousand times for having led or driven me into that fearful Demon's palace again, and exposed me once more to the dangerous fascinations of the bewitching Bellagranda. Had I only been content to sit still in the Doctor's room, or amuse and delight myself with the history of his angelic Helen, this awful contretemps could not have happened. I was now doomed to fight a brutal, perhaps a bloody duel, will, no less a personage than the renowned Minister for Foreign Affairs, the fiery and vindictive Sir Dashmy Partigan. The possibility of my killing, or even wounding him, never once entered my head. Could I do so, and


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At the rooms of some artists who formed a colony in the Avenue Frochot, I once knew a young girl of about 18 or 19 years of age—a rare type. She was the forewoman in a millinery department of a large and fashionable store. Every Sunday at an early hour she hurried to her artistic friends in the Avenue Frochot. She entered their quarters as if they were her own, not caring what the people who were there might think, simply saying:

"If I am in the way, send me off."

She was allowed to "circulate," to lounge, to look, at her own free will, to smoke, to sleep, to talk, to sing, to leave when the spirit moved her. A creature of impulse, of natural common sense, having learned nothing for learning's sake, she had acquired in her free life all she knew, which amounted to some knowledge of the piano, some solfege, Italian and English. She read all the printed matter she found, and remembered all she read. I had forgotten to say she was pretty (and it did not detract from her) pretty, very pretty, with a renaissance cameo profile, hair naturally waving, teeth so white, so even, so immaculate that she was made to laugh just to show her teeth. The strangest of all was, that no one ever doubted her perfect womanliness. After staying two or three hours, she would rise, put on her shawl and bonnet (without looking in the glass, so innate was her sense of adjustment); they were always rightly placed, and she would, disappearing, say: "I go to inflict myself elsewhere."

Her departure was as little noticed as had been her arrival.

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98 She was a familiar voice to us, a being, an interest. She said all she thought, listened to her own instinctive feelings, and expressed ideas of nature. We named her Folly. We did not know how she first came to the colony, and no one remembered not having seen her there.

On my return from quite a long journey, I inquired from one of the members of our colony about her. "I've not seen her for months. It is an age since she has been here. She must be dead."

Nothing more was said or thought of her. Artists are careless fellows, we must admit, and women make a sorry mistake to love them.

One morning about the beginning of May, 1855, I was walking through the grand Avenue of Neuilly. I was going to breakfast at the Porte Maillot. I say this for the curious. I had been working steadily for days, and felt the need of giving myself the relaxation of a morning stroll and a country frolic, to establish an equilibrium between the spirit and the flesh, as Zabier de Maistre would say. As I neared the top of the fortifications, I saw the people, particularly the men, walking in an opposite direction from the one I was taking, stop and turn. Some were laughing, others were making that little sound of the lips which is a call for dogs, eats and other animals, and continuing on their way with a sneering air. What silliness!

After quickening my step, I saw quite in the middle of the road, a white kid, jumping, caracoling, by times stopping, running back and forth with the gawky activity natural to young quarupedsquadrupeds [sic] when they first feel the earth under their feet, particularly noticeable in the goat kind.

Twenty feet in front of the kid, whose neck had a blue ribbon around it, to which was attached a bell, stood a young women, dressed in a white striped marsailles, made in the picturesque Louis XV style, her face shaded by a large straw hat trimmed with natural

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Rh flowers. In those days now gone, women still wore hats to protect from the sun. The dress alone of the young woman indicated her indifference to surroundings. She seemed unaware of any attention she was exciting among the passers, and stooping to the level of the object she wanted, called, in the gentlest voice of reproach: "Come on, you little fool!"

There are certain conventional traditions, which do not please me. They hamper men at every turn in their most natural, and often noblest impulses. "This or that is not done," is a despotic phrase, invented by no one knows who, but obeyed unversallyuniversally [sic], no one knows why. There are hundreds of insignificant prejudices which could be abolished in three days, of which everybody complains, and nobody resists. One of them is this: in the public thoroughfares you cannot go to the aid of a person in a ridiculous situation, without running the risk of becoming ridiculous yourself. It is incredible that in France we should need the opinion of others to be natural ourselves. Often a man or a woman, even a pretty woman, is seen in an embarrassing position and could be extricated by one word, which nobody will speak, or a gesture which no one will make, because they are in the open street. If finally some good Samaritan decides to go to the rescue and relieve the predicament, he turns pale or blushes, almost appeals for approval, then hurries away as soon as possible.

The kid was unwary, and I could easily take him in my arms and carry him to his mistress. It was very simple to do. Why had nobody done it before?

I was thanked with a beautiful courtesy, as I bowed and was about to retire, when with a glance at the young woman, I exclaimed; "Why, is it you?"

To this involuntary remark she ungrammatically replied, "Yes, it is me."

"I had not recognized you."

"I knew you at once."

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 {|

Evolution of the

Thermometer

1592-1743

―BY―

Author of Scientific Correspondence of

Joseph Priestley

Easton, PA.:

The Chemical Publishing Co.

1900.

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Rh actually did so, would not the Doctor and I be immediately sacrificed to the revengeful fury of the Parliament and the people? If he killed me! Oh, heartrending, maddening thought! to die in that place, and perhaps be kept there for ever—never to see my darlings again!

'Were you mad?' said the Doctor angrily, as we drove back to the hospital with the speed of lightning. 'Would nothing serve you but to grossly insult that powerful Parliament, and run me into all this trouble and danger, and your own head into the mouth of a roaring, ravening lion? Who are you that you must go and condemn Home Rule in Ireland? And you must forsooth go and do battle for your immaculate Great Lake, and abuse their glorious project of building their grand city round it, as if your confounded Great Lake was only worthy to be looked upon by your own divine angels in petticoats and breeches. I tell you what, Ubertus, you have brought me and yourself into a most disastrous and horrible scrape, and I only wish I could see our way well out of it. Partigan never misses his aim, and is an implacable fire-eater besides; he will demand twenty shots if necessary.'

'Shall we fight with pistols, Doctor?'

'Pistols, no; what are pistols? Partigan snaps his fingers at pistols.'

'You mentioned shots—rifles?'

'No.'

'Well, swords or bayonets?'

'No; do swords or bayonets shoot, you jackass?'

'With what weapons, then, sir?'

'With ! Get on horses!'

I laughed uneasily, and said timidly, while affecting the greatest indifference:

'Don't you think, Doctor, that I gave them a pretty telling speech? I mean, don't you think, that if they were


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100 "Why then did you thank you as if I were a stranger?"

"I did not know whether you cared to recognize me in the street."

"Are you crazy?"

"That is what you all used to call me."

"Where do you live now?"

"At No. 27. I have been to my mother, she lives at No. 8. And you?"

"Me? I am going to Gillette's to breakfast."

"Alone?"

"Yes."

"Come and breakfast with me."

"Thank you; suppose you breakfast with me."

"Just as you wish, I am glad to go, only I must take my kid home."

"Do you like kids?"

"This one was given to me. I take him everywhere, but he's not trained to follow me. See how pretty he it."

And drawing him to her, she showed me his little pink snout, and kissed it as she would a child's rosy lips. She told me then why she was seen no more among the artists. Some one did not wish her to go; he had not confidence in her, had hidden her at Neuilly after having made her leave her work. She lived on her income, spent her days in reading, practicing her music, walking out and playing piquet with her mother. She showed me her apartment on the ground floor with a garden at the back, the plants all nibbled by the kid that she would not shut up.

Three rooms composed her apartment; two were furnished, the parlor bare awaiting the generosity of the somebody who seemed to be in no hurry to furnish it. He was rich, but not extravagantly lavish; prodigality was not among his vieesvices [sic]. His family lived at Sevres, his business lived in Paris, he had found a halfway house at Neuilly convenient when he went

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Rh from Paris to Sevres, and when he returned from Auteuil to Paris. He divided his daily trips, and by this happy combination, met half way in his journeys, youth and love.

Six months after the day on which I found my Esmeralda, the family of the mysterious "he" changed their residence, and went to live at St. Denis. Neuilly was no longer on his road, he ceased stopping there. The parlor was never furnished. The girl was forgotten. No recrimination, complaint, nor revenge was feared from her.

She came to see me and told me these circumstances. I had not seen her since the day I gave her breakfast at Gillette's. She asked my advice. I urged her to return to the store she had left if she could get back her former position.

"I have lost the habit of work," she said in an indefinable way, full of regret and apprehension, "but I will try."

"And the kid?"

"I had him, he's a goat now."

A year after, I was stopped by a blockade of carriages on the corner of Rue Royale. Among the many equipages I saw an open carriage drawn by a pair of magnificent bay horses, admirably groomed. The coachman had trouble in checking them. In the caleche filled with flowers, silk, laces, sat a woman whose eyes were fixed on vacancy, her absent-minded air indicating her unconcern at being there or anywhere. It was she again. The carriage grazed the sidewalk where I stood. I imitated the bleating of a goat; she turned. Recognizing me, she blushed, and hid her face in her two hands with a pretty affected movement of shame, her eyes peeping through her fingers. She seemed to say, "I am naughty, but it's not my fault, forgive, and acknowledge that I look pretty."

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230 a lot of pins stuck up, and I stood before them with a bowl in my hand, they would have all gone down?'

'No doubt of it,' he replied with a laugh; 'you want a compliment, and shall have one. Your speech was telling enough, as the coachman said to the pig, after he had cut his ear off with the lash of his whip. If I had your talents, wit, and eloquence, Ubertus, I'd lose no time. I'd get into your Parliament above-ground, and I'd soon be at the top of the tree. Your great orator would be forced to acknowledge that he had at last heard of his match.'

We rattled on; our horses exhibited no signs of fatigue, but tore along at a tremendous pace. Their driver, the Doctor himself, only chirrupped to them now and then, and took no further notice. He gave me the benefit of some of his hoarded wisdom while we were upon the road, and spoke, as nearly as I can remember, to the following purport:

'Lo, and behold! Isn't it something rich to meditate upon? We were nearly out of this cursed hole, you and I and the Emperor of Demons together, and all my dreams of glory, and fond anticipations of eternal love and joy with God and Helen—mark you that—are smashed to pieces as by the crash of a mighty tornado. You are not yet eighty years old, and you say you are an old man: perhaps you are in your dotage. I call you a young man, but you are not too young to have some sound sense, and be above the helpless condition of a child, nor too poorly educated to be deficient in the good qualities of prudence and forethought. Do not be too down-hearted, my young friend; I have no desire to sit upon you too heavily. I hate extremes as much as any man; nearly all man's misery is owing to his incurable propensity to go to extremes. The foolish word of a single moment will blot out for ever the noble thoughts and deeds of a lifetime, and the act done in


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102 My answer was a salutation that might express—"I congratulate you."

She was about to speak, when the carriage moved on. Truly she was adorable, under a little rice straw bonnet trimmed with cherry ribbons. Luxury became her marvelously.

That evening I received the following note: "I must talk with you. I long to see you; you will not come to me; I dare not present myself at your door. What is to be done?"

I went to the address she indicated. She occupied all of a hotel in one of the streets parallel to the Champs Elysees. Tapestries, Venetian chandeliers, Florentine frames, porcelains of Sevres, Dresden, Japan, inlaid furniture, Etageres, Jardiniers, mantel ornaments of the time of Louis XVI,—any one can imagine it all,—beautiful drawings by Vidal and de Beaumont, pictures of Isabey and d'Voillemot.

I asked no questions, she made no explanations. After she had given me a seat, I said:

"What have you to tell me now?"

"Nothing, I wanted to see you."

"Why."

"Just to see you. You bring back pleasant reminiscences."

"Are you not happy?"

"I deserve a better fate, I assure you."

She wept, then dried her eyes in a three-hundred francs handkerchief. We heard the bell ring, a little maid appeared, and spoke a few words of English to her mistress, who answered readily in the same tongue. The maid went out, came back in five minutes, spoke again and was answered. She repeated this performance five or six times while I was in the parlor.

"Perhaps I'm intruding," and I rose to leave.

"No, stay," she said, "those are my creditors."

I learned that her life was one of confusion, luxury and debts. She spoke again—"How badly I have

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26

The sleeve problem has been so often brought before the trade as an unsolved one, that cutters are well acquainted with the difficulties that present themselves in its consideration. Further, it is more than likely the stern realities of daily practice have brought them experiences other than pleasant, and caused them to think a good many times over the remedies so much required. It is generally acknowledge that, to get a really perfect fitting sleeve, the scye should be located as early as possible at the natural juncture with the arm and body. This is imperative at the front of scye and at the bottom of scye: but with the width of back it is somewhat different, since loss of width to back can be compensated for in the sleeve; and when we consider the decided preference shown for narrow backs in ladies' garments, the importance of the system being arranged to provide for this in its ordinary workings will at once be seen. This, we claim, has been satisfactorily accomplished in the sleeve system we are now submitting. We fully illustrate its workings in regard to this feature towards the end of this section, but before our readers can consider that, it will be necessary for them to acquire the system in its simplicity, consequently we begin with

System as illustrated on diagram 41. The first thing we have to do is to take the cut out pattern of the body part. (Diagram 40 illustrates the scye of Dia. 1, Plate 4). We begin by drawing a line at right angles to the depth of scye line, and touching the most backward point of the scye at 11 (see dot and dash line): then another line is drawn at the front of scye, and the distance these two lines are apart is the first quantity taken; this is applied to diagram 41 by making from O to 5½ this quantity. We now wish to get the balance of the sleeve, and to do this we must locate the two pitches; the forearm pitch is always placed ¾ of an inch above the level of the scye as at B; the hindarm pitch may be fixed according to taste; a very good plan for Jackets and Ulsters is to fix it at the top of sideseam. The pitches located, we take the square and let either arm rest on a pitch as at A and B; now let the arm at C come forward or backward in accordance with the style of sleeve desired, always keeping the square touching these two pitches, when it will be found the more forward the square is brought, the greater the distance will be from E to B, and vice versa. It must always be remembered, in arranging the pitch of the sleeve, that the forward-hanging sleeve will have more superfluous cloth at top of hindarm, though it will give much more freedom than the backward hanging one. Having arranged the square in position, note the amount from B to E, and apply this to diagram 41 by measuring back from 5½ to 1½, and square across to 8. Now measure the scye from A to 11, and from 22 to B, straight across—not round—the scye; whatever that measures, apply from 1½ to 8; from O to 4 is half this distance, which in ordinary cases finds the top of sleeve head; draw a line from 5½ to 4, and also draw a line from 22 to B of diagram 40, and whatever the scye is hollowed from this line, as at E, add on that amount of round to the sleeve at ¾. The sleeve head may now be drawn from 5½ to 4 and 8, when the next operation is to mark off the length to elbow and full length. Measure the width of back and apply it to 8, and measure on to elbow, allowing three seams for making up, and on to full length in the same way. For an ordinary close-fitting sleeve, hollow the forearm 2 inches, then measure from 2 to 8 half the size of sleeve desired, plus two seams; in the same manner apply the width of cuff. Get the angle of cuff by squaring across from hindarm, taking the angle from elbow downwards as the guide. Draw the forearm straight from 5½ to 2, and from 2 to C, and on no account hollow it between as an examination of the arm will at once show it to be round between elbow and wrist, and to cut a hollow to fit it is quite a mistake. Tone down the angle at 2, and the topside sleeve is complete.

To get the under sleeve, measure round the bottom of scye from A to B, and apply from 5½ in the direction indicated by 7: sweep from the elbow at 8 to get the length of hindarm, and finish as per diagram. The amount of hollow required at ⅝ is got by squaring across from the forearm pitch at right angles from the square when placed to find the balance as illustrated on diagram 40; and provided the scye is not made too deep for the figure, the amount of hollow may be gauged by the distance between the square line and bottom of scye.

The Ulster sleeve is practically the same as the Jacket sleeve, though it may be preferrable to give it a trifle extra width at the elbow and cuff; but as this is a feature always governed by individual taste, it is impossible to lay down any definite guide in this particular, except actual measurement which plan the cutter should always adopt in all cases of doubt. The quantities marked on the diagram being the usual sizes for material of ordinary thickness.


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Rh yore first advice. Tell me again what to do, all the same."

"Do you own more than you owe?"

"Oh! yes!"

"Then sell, pay, buy a kid, and return to Neuilly."

"That would be a pity. This is all so pretty."

"Be reasonable, or don't ask advice."

"You are right. I promise—" she paused.

"I owe you a breakfast. When shall it be?"

"Any day you name, but it must be at Neuilly."

"I will be there before another month, on my honor."

"Honor?"

"Yes, an honest girl's honor. May I be hung if I'm not one at the bottom of my heart."

She stayed nevertheless in her fine apartment.

Two years rolled on. She was celebrated for her beauty, her wit, her lavish expenditures, her extravagances of every kind in the eccentric world where she figured.

She came to my apartment one morning, and began abruptly: "Don't tell me all that you think of me. I know it as well as you do, and I have come to ask a favor of you."

"What is it?"

"Have you five hundred francs?"

"Yes."

"Do you like Vidal's work?"

"Yes."

"Give me then five hundred francs, I will send you one of Vidal's pictures. A dealer has offered me that sum for it. I would rather you should own it."

"Take the five hundred francs and keep your picture."

"Now that is unkind," she said. "If I had nothing to give for your money, I would say, make me a present of five hundred francs. When all I have is gone, I will probably ask you for your money, until then

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