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Rh became indistinct and hazy as mist. She had hoped that her shame might kill her, but it had only tortured her. To Sandsgaard, where she had vowed never again to set her foot, she now went daily. Whenever she chanced to meet one of the family, and especially Fanny, her heart seemed to cease beating; but they passed her with as much unconcern as if they knew nothing, or as if she had nothing to do with them.

Many a time also she had met him. At first they passed each other hurriedly, but after a time he also seemed to have forgotten, and now he greeted her with a friendly nod, and the well-known voice said, "How are you, Marianne?"

It was as if these people lived surrounded by a thick wall of indifference, against which her tiny existence was shattered like fragile glass.

Marianne took a short cut through the ship-yard, where the carpenters were busy dividing the shavings and putting them into sacks. She found her grand-father, who had finished his work in the pitch-house, and they set off homewards together.

Anders Begmand lived in the last of the little red painted cottages which lay below the steep slope on the western side of the bay of Sandsgaard. The road along the shore was only a footpath leading to the door of each cottage, and then on to the next. Sea-weed and half-decayed fish refuse lay on the shore, while at the back of the houses were heaps of kitchen refuse, and other abominations. The path itself consisted of a row of large stones, on which

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 irresistibly comic look, rattled along in a way that must sorely have tried even the hardened bones and muscles of Gholam Ali Akbar.

The Russian quarter of Samarcand has only sprung up since 1868, when the town was captured from the Khan of Bokhara by General von Kaufmann. A recent traveller, Mr. Arthur Hardinge, has well described it as:—

'Consisting of a collection of broad streets, or rather boulevards, closely planted on each side with handsome trees, and bordered with one-storied whitewashed houses. These are generally detached, and in many cases stand within their own gardens, and their isolation from one another, and the grove-like look of the whole place, gives it a rural, or at least suburban, character, suggesting rather the outskirts of some continental pleasure resort that the streets of a populous town. The Governor's house, at the furthest end of the chief boulevard, is surrounded by lovely grounds, kept up with evident care, and the shade, the green lawns, and the sound of birds and water, produce a pleasant sense of coolness and repose very refreshing after the dust of the parched steppe. About a verst away lies the Sart, or native quarter, on the other side of a broad, open space,

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66 people had to walk if they wished to keep out of the accumulation of dirt. The houses were mostly crowded, but especially so in the winter, when the sailors were home from sea.

They were all in the employ of Garman and Worse, and the firm owned everything they possessed, even to their boats, their houses, and the very ground under their feet. When the boys grew old enough, they went to sea in one of the vessels belonging to the firm, and the brightest of the girls were taken into service, either at the house or at the farm. Otherwise the cottagers were left pretty much to themselves. They paid no rent, and there was no interference on the part of the firm with the "West End," which was the name by which the little row of cottages was generally known amongst the workpeople.

Anders Begmand's house was both the last and the smallest, but now that he was alone with his two grandchildren, Marianne and Martin, he did not require much room. Before, when his wife was alive and they had three grown-up sons at home, one of whom was married, it was often close work enough; but now all were dead and gone. The wife lay in the churchyard, and the sons in the deep sea.

Anders was an old man, bent by age. His curly white hair covered his head like a mop, and stood out under his flat cap, which looked more like the clot of pitch it really almost was, than anything else. In his youth Anders had made one voyage to the Mediterranean, in the Family Hope, but he had then been discharged; for he had a failing, and that

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 rather that writing, on long rolls, fresh copies of the sacred text, appeared the only representatives or survivers of the great legal and ecclesiastical class, once so famous for its religious learning, its fanaticism, and the political power it was believed to wield.'

We found the Hôtel de Varsovie, where we secured several rooms, tolerably clean and comfortable, and furnished with chairs, carpets, curtains, &c., all of which appeared wonderfully luxurious to travellers accustomed to Persian chapar khanehs. The proprietor was a fat, heavy Russian, with a buxom, good-natured wife, and amongst the servants we found a youth who spoke Persian, and who proved very useful to us as an interpreter. In the afternoon I called upon General Bibikoff, who commands the garrison in Samarcand, and to whom I had brought a letter of introduction. He received me very civilly in his small, one-storeyed house, and expressed regret that Madame Bibikoff, following the custom of all Russian ladies, would be unable to receive any visitors during the Holy Week, as she was busily engaged with her 'devotions.' In the course of conversation, General Bibikoff


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Rh stammered. Sometimes he could talk away without any hesitation, but if the stammering once began, there was nothing for it but to give up the attempt for that time. There he would stand, gasping and gasping, till he got so enraged that he nearly had a fit. When he was young it was dangerous to go near him at such times, for the angrier he got the more he stammered, and the more he stammered the more his anger increased. There was only one way out of it, and that was by singing; and so whenever anything of more than usual importance refused to come out, he was obliged to sing his intelligence, which he did to a merry little air he always used on these occasions. It was said that he had to sing when he proposed to his wife, but whether there was any truth in the statement is not quite clear. It was certain, however, that he did not often have to sing, and woe to any one who dared to say, "Sing, Anders." This was, of course, when he was young; he was now so broken down that any one could say what they liked to him. There was, therefore, no longer any pleasure in teasing him, and he was allowed to go in peace. Among the workmen he was held in the greatest respect, not only because he had been in the shop for more than fifty years, but because he had had so much sorrow in his old age, and especially because of the misfortune of Marianne, who was the apple of his eye and the light of his life. Martin, too, had brought him nothing but trouble: he was quite hopeless, and the captain with whom he had returned on his last voyage had complained of him, and refused to take him out again; so now

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68 he stayed at home, drinking and getting into mischief.

The evening was dull and rainy, and a light already shone in the cottage as Begmand and Marianne approached.

"There they are, drinking again," said she.

"I believe they are," answered Begmand.

She went to the window, the small panes of which were covered with dew, but she knew one which had a crack in it, through which she could look.

"There they are, all four of them," whispered Marianne. "You'll have to sit there, in front of the kitchen door, grandfather."

"Yes, child; yes!" answered the old man.

When they entered the room, there was a pause in the conversation, which was carried on by four men who sat drinking round the table. They had not long begun, and were only in the first stage of harmless elevation.

Martin greeted them in a cheerful tone, which he thought would hide his guilty conscience. "Good evening, grandfather. Good evening, Marianne. Come, let me offer you a drop of beer."

The thick smoke from the freshly lighted pipes still lay curling over the table, and round the little paraffin lamp without a globe. On the table were tobacco, glasses, matches, and half-empty bottles, while on the bench stood several full ones awaiting their fate.

Tom Robson, who sat opposite the door, lifted the large mug which had been standing between him and

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Rh his friend Martin, and, with his hand on his heart, began to sing—

He had composed this couplet himself, in honour of Marianne, to the great annoyance of the hungry looking journeyman printer who sat in the corner close by him.

Gustaf Oscar Carl Johan Torpander was a most remarkable Swede, inasmuch as he did not drink; but otherwise there was about him that exaggerated air of politeness, and that imitation of French manners, which seems generally to attach to the shady individuals of that nation. He had risen when Marianne came into the room, and was now making a low bow, with his shoulders, and especially the left one, well over his ears. His head was on one side, and he kept his eyes the whole time fixed on the young girl. While Tom Robson was singing his poetry, the Swede shook his head with a sympathetic smile to Marianne, by which he meant to express his regret that they met in such bad company.

The fourth person of the group was sitting with his back to the door, and did not move, for he was deaf; but when at length the Swede, who was still bowing, attracted his attention, he turned round heavily on his chair and nodded deafly to the new-comers. This person's real name had almost disappeared from the memory of man, for he had been nicknamed "Woodlouse" among his acquaintance. Mr. Woodlouse

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70 passed his time in a dingy den in the magistrate's office, where he either slept or occupied himself in sorting documents and papers. But there he had grown to be almost a necessity, for he had the special gift of knowing the contents of every paper, and the name of every single person who for years had sought information at the office. He could stand in the middle of the room and point to the different shelves, and say, apparently without effort, what each contained, and what was missing. He had thus gone down as a kind of living inventory from magistrate to magistrate, and as his special knowledge increased he endeavoured to get his salary raised, so that he might give himself up recklessly to his two ruling passions, which were drinking beer and reading novels at night.

As Marianne went through the room she moved her grandfather's chair close to the kitchen door, and gave him a meaning look. He nodded to show that he understood her wishes. She then said good night to the old man, and went into the kitchen, from whence a little dark staircase led upstairs to her room.

Marianne locked her door and went to bed. She was so tired every night that she could scarcely keep her eyes open while she undressed, and she fell asleep the moment she got into bed. Under her the noise of voices continued, varied by quarrelling and cursing, which mingled with the dreams of her heavy and broken slumber. In the morning her hair and pillow were damp with perspiration; she was chilled with cold, and was even more tired than when she went to rest.

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Rh The talking soon went on again as briskly as ever. Martin related how he had been up to the office that morning, intending to speak to the young Consul personally. He wished to complain of the captain who had told tales about him.

He did not, however, get so far as the Consul, but one of the clerks, a stupid lout with an eyeglass, had come out and told him that he would get no employment on a ship belonging to the firm, until he had been to the Seamen's school, and gave up drinking. As he told his story there was an evil glare in his eyes, which were large and bright like Marianne's, but piercing and cruel. In the pale face there was also the same trace of weakness as in his sister's; but Martin was tall and bony, and his arms were strong and powerful, and he gesticulated with them as he talked, and gave force to his words by striking the table with his fist. He became every moment more violent, as he got heated by drink and argument.

He was not going to the school to please Garman and Worse; and as to his drinking, what had the young Consul got to do with that? But they should see what he would do. And with a mighty oath, he shook his clenched fist in the direction of Sandsgaard.

"Right you are, my boy!" cried Tom Robson, laughing; "good again. Let us see what you are made of."

Robson was never so happy as when he could get Martin to talk himself into a fury, which was not a very difficult task.

Ever since his childhood Martin had shown himself

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72 of a worthless and cross-grained nature. His character at school was, that he was one of the cleverest and at the same time the most quarrelsome among the boys, and since then he had done nothing but fall foul of everything and everybody he came in contact with. Martin did most of the talking of the four, who already began to be excited by drink. It would perhaps be more correct to say, of the three, for Torpander was not there to drink, but only to be near Marianne. Woodlouse did not say much, for he heard but little; and when Mr. Robson, who had taken on himself the duty of chairman, gave him an opportunity of speaking, Woodlouse used so many strange expressions that the others did not understand him.

Neither did Torpander do much of the talking: for him the event of the evening was Marianne's return, after which he preferred to sit in silent rapture. This afternoon, however, Torpander joined Martin in his attack on the Garmans, whom he also hated, and poured forth a lot of newspaper tirade about the tyranny of capital, and such like.

"Oh, stop that infernal Swedish jargon!" cried the chairman, "and let us hear what Woodlouse is mumbling about."

"You see, gentlemen," began Woodlouse, eagerly, "the right of the proletariat"

"What does he mean?" shouted Martin.

Woodlouse did not hear the remark, and paused in his speech, as his eyes wandered inquiringly from one to another to see if they were listening.

But Martin could not keep silent any longer, and

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  me that Ishak Khan, the Afghan rebel and Pretender, is living quietly at Samarcand, under Russian protection, and is in receipt of an allowance from the Russian Government of 10,000l. a-year (100,000 roubles).

On the following day, Saturday, April 5th, I called on the Governor-General, Yafimovitch, and left a card, which was taken charge of by the porter, a fine,burly Sart, dressed in a long robe, and wearing a huge turban. I also called on his 'adjoint,' Colonel Poukaloff, but failed to find him at home. In the afternoon we hired horses and rode through the native quarter of Samarcand, passing numerous booths, crowded with white-turbaned Orientals, bartering, chaffering, smoking 'kalian,' or water-pipes, and drinking tea out of Russian samovars and china teapots. We dismounted at the Reghistan, a quadrangle, surrounded on three sides by medressehs, or religious colleges. The ruined facades are still covered with the most magnificent dark blue, light blue, and white tiles, forming the most lovely designs. The courtyard was crowded with Mollahs, reading and expounding the Koran, who watched our


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Rh broke out into a volley of oaths and curses against Garman and Worse, capital, captain, and the whole world, only interrupting himself occasionally to take a drink or light his pipe over the lamp.

Old Anders had at first taken his place by the kitchen door, but that evening they seemed to be pretty quiet, and he was always anxious to hear what they said when the conversation turned upon the firm. He therefore left the door and came up to the table, where Tom Robson made room for him, and at the same time offered him a drink from his mug.

"Thanks, Mr. Robson," said Begmand, as he put the mug to his lips.

Tom Robson was not only the chairman, but at the same time the host of the company, for it was he who paid for the liquor. By his side on the bench he kept a bottle of rum, from which he every now and then poured out a glass for each. He generally put a good drop of rum into his own beer, "to kill the insects," he said. He was now occupied in cutting up some cake tobacco to fill his pipe.

"Beautiful tobacco that, Mr. Robson," said Begmand.

"Take a bit," answered Tom, good naturedly.

"Thanks, Mr. Robson," said the old man, overjoyed, as he took out his pipe, the stem of which was not more than half an inch long, while the whole was as black as everything else which belonged to Anders.

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74 for a day or two; he then picked up a burning ember from the turf fire, which he applied to the bowl.

It was no easy matter to get the tobacco to light, but the smoke, when it began to draw, seemed warm and comforting to the old man. He sat there, crouching on the edge of the bench, eagerly watching Tom each time he passed him the mug, and not forgetting to say "Thank you, Mr. Robson," before he took his drink.

Martin grew more and more violent. "Isn't it enough," he yelled, "for us to work ourselves to death for these creatures? Are they going to watch every bit we eat, and every drop we drink? Just look at their houses! look how they live up there! Who has got all that for them? We, I tell you, grandfather; we who have been toiling here fishing, and going to sea year after year, son after father, in storm and tempest, watching night after night in wind and snow, so as to bring back wealth for these wretches! Just look what we get for it all! What a pig-stye we live in! And even that does not belong to us. Nothing does! It all belongs to them—clothes, food, and drink, body and soul, house and home, every bit!"

Begmand sat rocking himself to and fro, and drawing hard at his pipe. Woodlouse saw that there was a pause, and so began again.

"Property is robbery"

But Martin would not let him continue. "There is no one in the whole world," he shouted, "who puts up with what we do! Why don't we go up and say, 'Share with us, we who have done all the work'?

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Rh There has been enough of this blood-sucking! But no; we are not a bit better than a lot of old women; not one of us! They would never put up with that sort of thing in America."

"Ha! ha! good again!" laughed Tom Robson. "I dare say you think people are willing to share like brothers in America? No, my boy; you would soon find out you were wrong."

"Do you mean to tell me that workmen in America live like we do?" asked Martin, somewhat abashed.

"No; but they do what you can't do," answered Tom.

"What do they do?" asked Martin.

"They work; and that is what you and no one else does here!" shouted Tom, bringing his fist down heavily on the table. He was beginning to feel the effects of the rum.

"What's that about work? Do you mean to say?" began the Swede.

"Hold your jaw!" cried Tom. "Let the old un have his say!"

You are quite wrong, Martin," said Begmand, and this time without stammering. The watery look of his old eyes told that the beer was beginning to work. "It's shameful of you to talk like that about the firm. They have given both your father and your grand-father certain employment; and you might have had the same if you had behaved yourself. The old Consul was the first man in the whole world, and the young Consul is a glorious fellow too. Here's his health!"

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76 "Oh!" broke in Martin, "I don't know what you are talking about, grandfather. I don't see that you have got much to boast of. What about my father, and Uncle Svend, and Uncle Reinert,—every one lost in the Consul's ships; and what have you got by it all? Two empty hands, and just as much food as will keep body and soul together. Or perhaps you think," continued he, with a fiendish laugh, "that we have some connection with the family because of Marianne!"

"Martin, it's—it's" began the old man, his face crimsoning up to the very roots of his hair, and struggling vainly with his infirmity.

"Have a drink, old un," said Tom, good naturedly, handing Begmand the mug.

The old man paused for breath. "Thanks, Mr. Robson," said he, taking a long breath.

Tom Robson made signs to the others to leave him alone. Begmand put his pipe into his waistcoat pocket, got up, and went into the little room by the kitchen, where he slept. The unwonted drink had roused again the fire of his youth, and never had he felt his helplessness so keenly as he did that evening.

The others still sat drinking till there was no more, and the lamp began to grow dim as the oil gave out. Then they staggered off; Woodlouse away through West End, while Tom clambered up a steep path that led over the hill at the back of Begmand's cottage. He lived with a widow in a small house near the farm buildings of Sandsgaard.

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Rh to go through West End alone, and because he wanted to have a last glance at Marianne's window, which looked on to the hillside.

Martin shut the door after them, and managed to lift up the lid of a sort of locker in which he was going to sleep. He did not see that there were some empty bottles on the locker, and they rolled down on the floor, and one of them was broken against the spittoon. The lid slipped out of his hand, and, without trying to undress, he let himself fall just as he was into the bedclothes.

The last remaining drop of oil in the lamp was now gone, and the last blue flame flickered up through the chimney and was quenched. Then followed a thick grey smoke, which came curling up from the still glowing wick, and wreathed itself in graceful spirals through the glass and glided out into the room, until it looked like a maze of fairy threads in the faint light from the window.

Nothing was heard but the sound of heavy breathing. The old man's respiration was short and broken, while Martin, after turning over a few times, lay quiet, and at length began to snore. Before long he started up again uneasily, heated as he was by drink and passion.

Still a little longer smouldered the red glow of the wick, while the smoke wreathed up thinner and thinner through the glass and spread itself in the darkness.

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  with inquisitive interest. Mr. Curzon has declared that the Reghistan of Samarcand was originally, and is still even in its ruins, the noblest public square in the world.

'There is nothing,' he says, 'in the East approaching it in massive simplicity and grandeur, and nothing in Europe, save, perhaps, on a humbler scale, the Piazza di San Marco, at Venice, which can even aspire to enter the competition. No European spectacle,indeed, can adequately be compared with it in our inability to point to an open space in any western city that is commanded on three of its four sides by Gothic cathedrals of the finest order. For it is clear that the Medresseh of Central Asian Mahometanism is both in its architectural scope and design a lineal counterpart of the minster of the West. Instead of the intricate sculpture and tracery crowning the pointed archways of the Gothic front, we see the enamelled tiles of Persia framing a portal of stupendous magnitude. For the flanking minster, towers, or spires, are substituted two soaring minarets. The central lantern of the West is anticipated by the Saracenic dome, and in lieu of artificial colour thrown through tinted panes, from the open heavens shine down the azure of the Eastern sky and the glory of the Eastern sun. What Samarcand must have been in its prime, when those great fabrics


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 aggravated by the scorching desert wind which was blowing, and made the place, as Duffadar Ramazan Ali Khan remarked, 'hotter even than Moultan,the hottest place in India.' Late in the afternoon I paid a visit to the 'Nachalnik,' a Russian of German origin, with a Polish wife, who received me very courteously, and refreshed me with afternoon tea. At 6.30 the 'post' train, consisting only of second and third-class carriages, with a refreshment saloon, and a large van, without seats, reserved for Mussulmans, made its appearance. With difficulty we all four obtained second-class places, as the train was full of military officers, with a few civilians, apparently merchants, going to Merv and Bokhara, and at seven o'clock we steamed out of the station, en route for Samarcand.

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 distant from Dushak. By the bright moonlight we could see the modern Russian town on the west bank of the Murghab, whilst there appeared to be, with the exception of a dismantled fort, but little remains of the ancient Merv, which, in the words of Mr. Curzon, 'successively a satrapy of Darius, a colony of Alexander, a province of the Parthians, the site of a Christian bishopric, the seat of power of a Seljuk dynasty, and the residence and last resting-place of Alp Arslan and Sultan Sanjur; a prey to the awful scourge of the Mongol, and an altar for the human hecatombs of Jenghiz Khan a frontier outpost of Persia; a bone of armed contention between Bokhara and Khiva; a Turcoman encampment, and a Russian town, has surely exhausted very revolution of Fortune's wheel.'

When morning broke we found ourselves passing through the howling wilderness between Merv and Tcharjui, on the Oxus. Imagine the Atlantic Ocean during a great storm, when its waves are rolling mountains high,and threatening to engulph the ships riding over their crests, being suddenly transformed from salt water


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 April 4th, and after being delayed for some time at the station by a subordinate Custom House officer, who had carelessly or designedly allowed the railway porters to carry our luggage out of the station without going through the formality of a Custom House inspection, and who afterwards insisted upon making a minute search of all our effects in the middle of the road, surrounded by an insolent crowd, we drove four miles to the modern Russian quarter of Samarcand, and alighted at the 'Hôtel de Varsovie.' The road from the station was broad and metalled, and planted on both sides with avenues of tall poplars. We drove in a small Russian droshky, similar to those which ply for hire in St. Petersburg and other Russian cities, whilst our luggage followed in a one-horse cart peculiar to Samarcand and Bokhara. It consisted of a rough wooden platform, roofed in with wooden hoops and straw matting, and slung upon two enormous wheels, over eight feet in height. The driver, a native Sart, was perched, or rather crouched, like a monkey upon the horse's neck, and the whole conveyance, which presented an


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 upon which stands the fort, and which serves as a drill-ground for the troops.

'Rich and smiling as is the surrounding country, and full of villages, orchards, and gardens, the old Sart town itself is mean, squalid, and ill-built. The Bazaar is small and poor, and the seamy side of European influence is clearly visible in low drink-shops, kept by Jews and Armenians, and in an entire quarter of native houses of a still worse description. In the midst, however, of these shabby streets and lanes tower three splendid mosques, forming three sides of the Reghistan, a small square, which is the chief market and meeting-place of the town. Attached to each is a medresseh, or college, for the students of Mussulman theology and law, who are lodged for a small pittance in rooms, or cells, opening out into the courtyards of the mosques. Though devout worshippers still crowd them every Friday, there was a decayed, deserted look about these buildings, as compared with those of Bokhara, which seemed to speak of a decline of religious zeal, and in general of all energy and life, in what, in old days, was the chief home of Mahommedan culture in Central Asia. A knot of youths, chatting or reading in a corner, and gladly leaving their books to earn a copper by showing the Christian stranger over their mosque, and a few aged Mollahs, half-dozing over their Korans, or laboriously painting,


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 emerged from the mason's hands, intact and glittering with all the effulgence of the rainbow, their chambers crowded with students, their sanctuaries thronged by pilgrims, and their corporations endowed by kings, the imagination can still make some endeavour to depict'

The other sights of Samarcand which we visited during our stay of one week in that place can only be briefly mentioned. The mosque of Bibi Khanoum, the Chinese consort of the great Timour, is rapidly falling into complete decay. Here is to be seen the great marble lectern, on which formerly reposed the gigantic copy of the Koran, said to be eight hundred years old, which was carried off by the Russians after the storming of Samarcand, and deposited in the great public library of St. Petersburg. A smaller, and far less ancient Koran, is carefull preserved in the cluster of the mosques and chapels forming the mausoleum of Shah Zindeh, which, too, is so rapidly decaying that in a few more years, unless some archæological society comes to the rescue, little will remain of any of these glorious monuments of ancient Samarcand, 'with their turquoise and sapphire, and


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 little or nothing in the interests of society; whilst his second in command, Colonel Poukoloff, is a heavy, middle-aged officer, who served under General Kaufmann at the capture of Tashkent, in 1865, and has been vegetating and rusting at Samarcand since 1869.

The bazaars of Samarcand are both interesting and tempting. Here may be bought quantities of fine silks, of native manufacture, as well as fur, sheep, and lambskin caps, embroidered saddle-cloths, and silver horse-trappings. All this native industry could be greatly developed if the Russians, themselves after all only a half-civilised nation, did not treat it with the same ignorant contempt with which they view those magnificent relics of the past of which they are unworthy custodians.

During our visit to Samarcand, and indeed during the whole of the three weeks we passed in Russian Transcaspian and Turkestan territory, we were subjected to a police espionage and surveillance of a most ignoble and petty description. Having, on one occasion, ascended to the summit of one of the Reghistan medresehs, for the purpose of seeing the view, a report


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 A night's run of twelve hours, spent in a very uncomfortable second-class carriage, brought us to the station of Bokhara. The only incident worthy of note being the conduct of a young military officer, who made himself very disgreeable, by talking in our presence against England and English people in general, until he was forcibly stopped by the indignant interference of some of the passengers. Excuses were eventually made to us, on his behalf, on the ground that having been recently bitten by a mad dog he had taken to drink, and was consequently not altogether responsible for his actions.

On arriving at Bokhara station, at 7.30 in the morning of Sunday, April 13th, we found a close carriage waiting for us, which had been sent, together with a cart for our luggage, by M. Klemm, the kind and hospitable Russian Acting Political Agent, resident at the Court of the Khan of Bokhara. The carriage was drawn by three horses, harnessed unicorn fashion,and each horse was ridden by a Bokhariot postillion, dressed in gorgeous coloured flowing silk robes and large white turbans, whilst a Russian


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 guard of twenty Cossacks, and in receiving official visits of congratulations from Bokhariot ministers and Russian residents. At noon we adjourned for luncheon to his quarter of the Residency,and made the acquaintance of Madame Klemm, her mother, and several Russians.

During our three days' stay at Bokhara we remained the guests of M. Klemm, who placed all his servants and horses at our disposal. We visited the bazaars, which we found crowded with most tempting wares, silks, embroideries, arms, and brass and copper ware of quaint native manufacture; among the sellers were many Jews and Hindoos, the latter being distinguished by a red caste mark on their foreheads. Bargaining in the Bokhara bazaars is a work of considerable labour, as the buyer is surrounded by a crowd of spectators who take the liveliest interest in the proceedings, and vociferously express unasked their opinions with regard to the quality of the goods and the prices demanded.

Bokhara, on the whole, is for a tourist a disappointing place. The streets are rough and narrow, with high mud walls, and but few


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 not exactly an abode of bliss, or in any way coming up to the standard of an English prison, is not by any means the noisome dungeon which one might naturally expect to see.

The Amir of Bokhara, whose acquaintance M. Klemm did not seem to wish us to make, is a young man of about thirty, who is allowed by the Russians to manage the internal affairs of his country as an independent sovereign, on condition of leaving his foreign relations, and, if necessary, placing his small, and not particularly efficient, army entirely in Russian hands. Wedged in between the Russian dominions of Turkestan on one side, and Transcaspia on the other, and traversed by a military railway, which, as a great concession on the part of Russia, does not pass within ten miles of 'Bokhara the Noble,' the Amir is nothing but a humble vassal and servant of Russia, which does not occupy the country, because she derives all the benefits from it, which she can wish to obtain, without incurring the expense of its administration. The capital, which is about twelve miles in circumference, is still a great city, for it contains


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 pauper, undaunted by material woes, walks abroad with the dignity of a patriarch, and in the garb of a prince.'

We left Bokhara by the 7.30 morning train on Wednesday, 17th of April, driving to the station in the same carriage and with the same escort with which we had arrived. The Klemms travelled in our train on their way to Tcharjui, on the Bokharian frontier, in order to make arrangements for the approaching arrival of the Prince of Naples, the heir to the throne of Italy. The train was, as usual, crowded with military officers, and as there were neither coupés or lavatories, the discomfort was great, and the heat in the desert was very oppressive. We arrived at Askabad, the capital of Transcaspia, at noon on Thursday, the 18th of April, and were met at the station by M. Rodziewices, a secretary of General Annenkoff, who drove with us to a comfortable little house about a mile from the station, where rooms had been secured for us by Madame von Schoultz, the English-born wife of a Russian artillery general. The Schoultzs' are a Finnish family, whose acquaintance I had made ten


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 1885, when, with all the odds in his favour, he attacked and defeated a detachment of Afghans during the sittings of the Afghan Boundary Commission, and by so doing nearly embroiled England and Russia in a war. The trophies of this 'victory' are four English field guns, which were captured from the Afghans, and which, still surmounted with a V.R. and the crown, form the principal ornaments of Scobeloff Square, Askabad, and are proudly pointed out to travellers as being 'les canons anglais.'

In the afternoon of the one day which the Prince of Naples spent at Askabad a review and a sham fight, representing on a small scale the storming of Geok Tepe, was held. The troops consisted of two battalions of sharpshooters, some Cossack cavalry, artillery, and Turcoman irregular horse. The point of attack was the Turcoman village of Cashi, about three miles from Askabad. It is a lovely oasis, with trees and water, in the middle of the great Steppe. The most interesting part of the review, to a stranger, was the manœuvering of the Turcoman militia, or native irregular horse. They have only recently been enrolled


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238 On Cama's verdant margin plac'd,

Adieu! while memory still is mine,

For offerings on Oblivion's shrine,

These scenes must be effac'd.

3.

Adieu, ye mountains of the clime

Where grew my youthful years;

Where Loch na Garr in snows sublime

His giant summit rears.

Why did my childhood wander forth

From you, ye regions of the North,

With sons of Pride to roam?

Why did I quit my Highland cave,

Marr's dusky heath, and Dee's clear wave,

To seek a Sotheron home?

4.

Hall of my Sires! a long farewell—

Yet why to thee adieu?

Thy vaults will echo back my knell

Thy towers my tomb will view:

The faltering tongue which sung thy fall,

And former glories of thy Hall,

Forgets its wonted simple note—

But yet the Lyre retains the strings,

And sometimes, on Æolian wings,

In dying strains may float.


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 green and plum-coloured, and orange tiles, crusted over with a rich, silicious glaze, and inscribed with mighty Kufic letters.' In the Citadel is to be seen, by special permission, the 'koktash,' or great stone throne of Timour Lang; and a short ride from the town, beyond the mounds of Afrasiab, leads one to the 'Tomb of Daniel.' It is a stone and plaster coffin-shaped construction,eighteen yards long, situated on a hillock, alongside of a small mosque, surrounded by trees, and overlooking the river. Around the tomb are planted long poles, surmounted by horses' tails, the standards of departed Uzbeg and Sart chieftains. Our guide would not allow any doubts to be cast upon the legend which names this spot as the last resting-place of the Prophet Daniel, and upon our remarking that the tomb was unnecessarily long, he retorted that it was well known that Daniel was a very big man.

Socially Samarcand is an exceedingly dull place. The Governor, General Yafimovitch, formerly an officer in the Chevalier Gardes of St. Petersburg, is a hipped and discontented valetudinarian, with a young wife, who does


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 was made to the local authorities that we had done so in order to take a photograph, or to make plans of the city and its defences. On another occasion I was honoured at Samarcand with a formal summons to appear at a police court and answer to a charge of having fraudulently endeavoured to evade the Custom House, and of having assaulted a Custom House officer. In vain I protested against the indignity of a British diplomatist being treated in this way; I was forced to appear in person, and to defend myself from a charge that was easily disposed of without any witnesses being called on my behalf, but during which I had an opportunity of closely inspecting a body of thirty Siberian prisoners, dressed in their convict uniform of long, grey cloaks, with big yellow crosses embroidered on their backs, guarded by a strong force of soldiers. No apology of any kind was made to me, and we left for Bokhara on Saturday evening, the 12th of April, carrying with us pleasant reminiscences of the beauty of Samarcand and its surroundings, as well of its native inhabitants, but with the worst possible impression of their Russian rulers.


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 Cossack rode beside the carriage as an escort. The drive from the station to the tower is about ten miles, over a shocking road. We passed numbers of Bokhariots of all ages in their brilliant native dress, leading and riding camels and donkeys, and after passing through the crowded bazaars, where our passage was constantly blocked by inquisitive and staring natives, we reached the hospitable doors of the Russian Political Agency. We were received by a native porter in a striped silk dress, who led us across a dreary yard, and showed us into a long room, containing two beds, three or four chairs, a narrow table, and a carpet. This was the guest-chamber, and two small rooms in addition were allotted to us, one for Chivers, and the other for Ali Akbar. Our room, which looked out into a large wilderness of a garden, was swarming with ants, but otherwise it was fairly comfortable. In the course of the morning we received a visit from M. Klemm, a rising and very agreeable young diplomatist of Danish origin. He was dressed in full uniform, as it was Russian Easter Sunday, and he was engaged in giving an Easter breakfast to his


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Rh 5.

Fields, which surround yon rustic cot,

While yet I linger here,

Adieu! you are not now forgot,

To retrospection dear.

Streamlet! along whose rippling surge

My youthful limbs were wont to urge,

At noontide heat, their pliant course;

Plunging with ardour from the shore,

Thy springs will lave these limbs no more,

Deprived of active force.

6.

And shall I here forget the scene,

Still nearest to my breast?

Rocks rise and rivers roll between

The spot which passion blest;

Yet Mary, all thy beauties seem

Fresh as in Love's bewitching dream,

To me in smiles display'd;

Till slow disease resigns his prey

To Death, the parent of decay,

Thine image cannot fade.


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 buildings of any importance. The numerous mosques and medressehs are in a state of great dilapidation and decay. Bokhara is, of course, connected in English minds with the tragic death of Stoddart and Connolly, who, being sent in 1842 on a political mission, were cast into a subterranean dungeon, or pit, where, after suffering months of torture, they were eventually beheaded. This pit has now been filled up, and the Bokhariots profess to know nothing about it, or of the tragedy of which it was the scene, but there can be little doubt that the dungeon was under a small hillock, on the summit of which now stands the modern prison. This prison we visited, and found in it some twenty prisoners, ordinary criminals, several of whom were chained to the walls like dogs to their kennels, and all plaintively begging for food. In accordance with the usual custom we bought bread from a perambulating baker, which we gave to one of the prisoners, who distributed it fairly among his comrades, by whom it was quietly and thankfully received. In justice to the Bokhariots it must be said that this prison, though


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 a population of about one hundred thousand souls. Of these, according to Mr. Curzon, only one hundred and fifty are Europeans, nearly all of them Russians, Germans, or Poles. The majority of the native population are Tajïks and Uzbegs, and the gorgeousness of their apparel, even the humblest of them wearing the most gaudily coloured, and, in European eyes, the most costly of silk robes, lends an extraordinary brilliancy to their surroundings. Mr. Curzon has pointed out that Bokhara has long set the fashion in Central Asia in the matter of dress, and that it is the great clothes mart of the East. 'Here the richness of Oriental fancy has expressed itself in the most daring but artistic combinations of colour, the brightest crimson and blue and purple and orange are juxtaposed or interlaced, and in Bokhara Joseph would have been looked upon as the recipient of no peculiar favour in the gift of a coat of many colours. Too often there is the most glaring contrast between the splendour of the exterior and the poverty it covers. Many of the people are wretchedly poor, but living is absurdly cheap, and your


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 years before in a country house in Finland. At that time Askabad was a mere Turcoman settlement, and I little thought when I parted from them in the forests of Finland that our next meeting-place would be in the Steppes of Central Asia.

Askabad is a flourishing modern town, built in the ordinary Russian style, with broad boulevards, one-storeyed, whitewashed houses, and possessing a church with the usual green roof. The town lies in a barren plain, which in the spring contains a certain amount of scanty herbage, and it is about six miles distant from the Kopet Dach range of mountains, which here form the Persian boundary.

The following day we went to the station to witness the arrival of the Crown Prince of Italy, a young man, aged twenty-two, to whom we had been presented in 1887 at Malta. He was received by General Komaroff, the Governor of Transcaspia, a short, square, bald-headed man, who looks more like a university professor than a military commander. Indeed, his only military exploit has been the Khushk affair in


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scope of the present work is to give in a concise form an account of the principal facts relating to the structure, classification, and life-history of Fishes. It is intended to meet the requirements of those who are desirous of studying the elements of Ichthyology; to serve as a book of reference to zoologists generally; and, finally, to supply those who, like travellers, have frequent opportunities of observing fishes, with a ready means of obtaining information. The article on "Ichthyology," prepared by the late Sir J. Richardson for the eighth edition of the "Encyclopædia Britannica," is the only publication which has hitherto partly satisfied such requirements; and when I undertook, some years ago, to revise, or rather rewrite that article for the new edition of that work, it occurred to me that I might at the same time prepare a Handbook of Ichthyology, whilst reserving for the article an abstract so condensed as to be adapted for the wants of the general reader.

From the general plan of the work I have only departed in those chapters which deal with the Geographical Distribution of Fishes. This is a subject which has never before been treated in a general


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vi and comprehensive manner, and seemed to demand particular attention. I have, therefore, thought it right to give nominal lists of the Faunæ, and the other details of fact on which I have based my conclusions, although all the necessary materials may be found in my "Catalogue of Fishes."

A few references only to the numerous sources which were consulted on the subjects of Chapters 1-12, are inserted in the text; more not required by the beginner; he is introduced to a merely elementary knowledge of facts well known to the advanced student.

With regard to the illustrations, about twenty have been prepared after originals published by Cuvier, J. Müller, Owen, Traquair, Duméril, Cunningham, Hasse, Poey, Siebold, and Gegenbaur. A similar number, representing extinct fishes, have been taken, with the kind permission of the author, from Owen's "Palæontology". My best thanks are due also to the Committee of Publications of the Zoological Society, and to the Editors of the "Annals and Magazine of Natural History," and of the "Journal des Museum Godeffroy," for the loan of woodcuts illustrating some of my papers on South American fishes and on larval forms. The remainder of the illustrations (about three-fourths) are either original figures, or formed part of the article on 'Ichthyology' in the former edition of the "Encyclopædia Britannica."

 * , 3d October 1880.


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240 7.

And thou, my Friend! whose gentle love

Yet thrills my bosom's chords,

How much thy friendship was above

Description's power of words!

Still near my breast thy gift I wear

Which sparkled once with Feeling's tear,

Of Love the pure, the sacred gem:

Our souls were equal, and our lot

In that dear moment quite forgot;

Let Pride alone condemn!

8.

All, all is dark and cheerless now!

No smile of Love's deceit

Can warm my veins with wonted glow,

Can bid Life's pulses beat:

Not e'en the hope of future fame

Can wake my faint, exhausted frame,

Or crown with fancied wreaths my head.

Mine is a short inglorious race,—

To humble in the dust my face,

And mingle with the dead.


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Rh Oh Fame! thou goddess of my heart;

On him who gains thy praise,

Pointless must fall the Spectre's dart,

Consumed in Glory's blaze;

But me she beckons from the earth,

My name obscure, unmark'd my birth,

My life a short and vulgar dream:

Lost in the dull, ignoble crowd,

My hopes recline within a shroud,

My fate is Lethe's stream.

10.

When I repose beneath the sod,

Unheeded in the clay,

Where once my playful footsteps trod,

Where now my head must lay,

The meed of Pity will be shed

In dew-drops o'er my narrow bed,

By nightly skies, and storms alone;

No mortal eye will deign to steep

With tears the dark sepulchral deep

Which hides a name unknown.

11.

Forget this world, my restless sprite,

Turn, turn thy thoughts to Heaven;


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242 There must thou soon direct thy flight,

If errors are forgiven.

To bigots and to sects unknown,

Bow down beneath the Almighty's Throne;

To Him address thy trembling prayer:

He, who is merciful and just,

Will not reject a child of dust,

Although His meanest care.

12.

Father of Light! to Thee I call;

My soul is dark within:

Thou who canst mark the sparrow's fall,

Avert the death of sin.

Thou, who canst guide the wandering star,

Who calm'st the elemental war,

Whose mantle is yon boundless sky,

My thoughts, my words, my crimes forgive;

And, since I soon must cease to live,

Instruct me how to die. 1807. [First published, 1832.]

TO ——

1.

! well I know your subtle Sex,

Frail daughters of the wanton Eve,—


text: The Works of Lord Byron (ed. Coleridge, Prothero)/Poetry/Volume 1/The Adieu


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The Adieu

 * The Adieu, a poem by Augusta Baldwyn
 * The Adieu, a poem by Lord Byron
 * The Adieu, a poem by Jane Elizabeth Roscoe Hornblower
 * The Adieu, a poem by Lydia Huntley Sigourney (1815)
 * The Adieu, a poem by Letitia Elizabeth Landon 'A fair good-night to thee, love, a fair good-night to thee' (1828)
 * The Adieu, a poem by Letitia Elizabeth Landon 'We'll miss her at the morning hour' (1832)

title: The Adieu


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Aristotle, 2—Belon, 4—Salviani, 5—Rondelet, 6—Faunists and Anatomists of the Seventeenth Century, 7—Rayand Willughby, 8—Artedi, 9—Linnæus, 10—Gronow and Klein, 12—Pupils and Successors of Linnæus, 12—Bloch, 13—Lacépède, 15—Anatomists and Faunists preceding Cuvier, 16—Cuvier, 17—Agassiz, 20—J. Müller, 22—Discovery of Ceratodus, 25—Recent publications on Fishes, 26—Latest systematic works, 33.

Form of the body, 35—External parts of the head, 36—Trunk and Tail, 39—Fins; their structure, position, and function, 40—Skin and Scales, 45.

Axial portion, 51—Vertebra and its parts; terms defined, 51—Skull; bones topographically enumerated, 53—Bones of the limbs, 59—Synonymic list of bones, 59.


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viii

Branchiostoma, 63—Cyclostomes, 64—Chondropterygians, 66—Holocephali, 70—Ganoids, 71—Dipnoi, 71—Chondrostei, 74—Polypteroidei, 77—Lepidosteoidei, 80—Amioidei, 82—Teleostei, 83—Classification of the bones of the Teleosteous skull according to the vertebral doctrine, 85—their morphological classification, 86—Limb-bones of Teleosteans, 92.

General arrangement of the Muscles, 93—Electric organs, 94.

Of Branchiostoma, 96—Spinal chord, 96—Brain, its size, 97—Brain of Osseous fishes, 97—of Ganoids, 98—of Chondropterygians, 100—of Cyclostomes, 101—Spino-cerebral nerves, 103—Spinal nerves, 107—Sympathic system, 108.

Smell, 109—Sight, 111—Hearing; connection of the ear with the air-bladder, 116—Taste, 119—Touch, 120.

Food and mode of feeding, 121—Buccal and abdominal cavities and their openings, 123—Mouth and tongue, 123—Forms, texture, and arrangement of teeth, 124—Intestinal tract, 127—Liver, 132—Pancreas, 133—Spleen, 133.


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Rh 14. Anyone adjudged to be guilty of kidnapping shall be put to death.

15. Anyone who shall abduct a slave of the court, or a female slave of the court, or the male or female slave of a freedman, shall be taken beyond the city gate and put to death.

16. Anyone harboring a runaway slave, either male or female, of the court, or of a freedman, and failing to produce him or her on the public demand of the major domo of the court, or the house of a freedman, upon conviction thereof shall be deemed guilty of felony and shall suffer death.

17. Anyone capturing a male or female slave, and returning said male or female slave to his or her master, shall be compensated by the master to the extent of 2 shekels of silver.

18. In event a runaway slave shall refuse or fail to name his master, the person capturing such slave shall produce him before the court where his identity shall be examined into and upon its being ascertained the slave shall be returned to his master.

19. Any person capturing a runaway slave and detaining him in his house and exercising ownership over him, upon conviction thereof shall be deemed guilty of felony and shall sufifer the death penalty.

20. In event a runaway slave escapes from his captor, the captor shall make oath to the owner of the slave as to the circumstances, and thereupon shall be released from any charge by reason of the escape.

21. Anyone seeking to burglarize a house, by breaking into it, shall be deemed guilty of felony and shall suffer the death penalty. The execution shall take place at the point of the breach in the house and he shall be there interred.

22. Any person convicted of a robbery shall be put to death.

23. In event anyone shall be robbed, and the person committing the robbery shall escape, the party so deprived of his property shall make claim under oath, enumerating the property of which he has been robbed, whereupon the municipality or (......) wherein said robbery was committed shall compensate him for his loss.

24. In the event of the abduction of any person, the municipality or (......) in which the abduction took place shall pay to the personal representatives of the abducted person, 1 silver "mine."

25. Any person who shall be present at a fire occurring in the house of another, and while present at such fire appropriates any article belonging to the proprietor of the house in which the fire occurs, shall be deemed guilty of a felony, and as a punishment therefor shall be thrown into the burning fire.

26. If an officer of the king or [drafted] man who has been ordered to march with the king's troops, fails so to do and procures a mercenary or substitute who performs the duty incumbent upon such officer, or [drafted] man and the officer or [drafted] man shall die while his mercenary or substitute is with the king's troops, thereupon the mercenary or substitute shall be entitled to take possession of the estate of his deceased principal.

27. If an officer or [drafted] man is captured during a reverse of the king, and during his imprisonment his property is delivered into the hands of some other person, he shall upon his release and return to his home be reinstated in the possession of his property.

28. In event of the capture of an officer of the king or [drafted] man upon a defeat suffered by his king, the officer's son shall take possession of


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Page:Carter and Crime (Gerald Ford and Jimmy Carter 1st debate)(Gerald Ford Library)(1554405).pdf/1

 The original documents are located in Box 1, folder "First Debate: Carter and Crime" of the White House Special Files Unit Files at the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library.

Copyright Notice

The copyright law of the United States (Title 17, United States Code) governs the making of photocopies or other reproductions of copyrighted material. Gerald Ford donated to the United States of America his copyrights in all of his unpublished writings in the National Archives collections. Works prepared by U.S. Government employees as part of their official duties are in the public domain. The copyrights to materials written by other individuals or organizations are presumed to remain with them. If you think any of the information displayed in the PDF is subject to a valid copyright claim, please contact the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library.


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72 his property and that son shall be deemed the proper person to exercise the control and possession over his father's field and garden.

29. In event his son [the son of an officer or drafted man] by reason of his infancy is incapable of taking possession of his father's property, the son's mother shall be given ⅓ the field and garden of the father and shall be charged with the maintenance and support of such son until he shall reach maturity.

30. In event an officer of the king or [drafted] man fails to make provision for the cultivation of his field, garden and the care of his house, or gives them in payment to some other person who enters into possession thereof and occupies the same for the period of 3 years, whereupon such officer or [drafted] man returns to claim such field, garden or house, the officer or [drafted] man shall not be deemed the rightful owner, and the property shall remain in the possession of the person occupying it.

31. In event he [an officer of the king or a man] shall lease his property for the period of one year and at the termination of said lease he returns to take possession of said property, he shall be entitled to the possession thereof.

32. Any person purchasing the freedom of an officer or man captured while on a march with his king, shall be repaid the ransom money by the captured officer or man, in event the officer or man has property or means sufficient to repay the purchaser of his freedom. In event such ransomed person has no means by which to repay the person purchasing his freedom, the municipality in which such captured person has his domicile shall compensate the purchaser of his freedom, the charge therefor to be first made upon the temple. In event of insufficient funds in the temple to make payment then the state shall defray the charge. The field, garden and house of the ransomed officer or man shall not be charged for repayment.

33. Any [officer] or [soldier] who deserts and substitutes a mercenary in his stead and the mercenary goes in his stead, then the deserter shall be deemed guilty of felony and punished by death.

34. If [officer] or a [soldier] injures the property of the king he shall be deemed guilty of felony and punished by death. If anyone delivers an officer of the king into bondage, and in so delivering the officer into bondage he bribes one in authority to assist him in the delivery and likewise appropriates to his own use property belonging to and bestowed upon the officer by his king, that wrongdoer shall be deemed guilty of felony and put to death.

35. Anyone purchasing a beef or small animal given by the king to an officer [for the officer's rations] shall forfeit the purchase price.

36. The field, garden and house of a taxpayer cannot be sold [is exempt from levy].

37. Anyone purchasing a field, garden or house of an officer, soldier or taxpayer the slate shall be washed [the contract therefor shall be null and void] and the purchase price shall be refunded to the owner [and he, the owner, shall retain his property].

38. A captain, soldier or taxpayer cannot sell the property of his feudal lord, wife or daughter, or pledge such property for the payment of his debts.

39. He [captain, soldier or taxpayer] may assign the field, garden or house which he has purchased with his own money and which he possesses in his own right for the payment of his debts. He may also convey such property to his wife or daughter.


text: Index:Carter and Crime (Gerald Ford and Jimmy Carter 1st debate)(Gerald Ford Library)(1554405).pdf


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 into the Russian service,and although at present consisting of only a few hundred men, could easily, it is said, in case of war, be increased to ten thousand. The men receive twenty-five roubles a-month and their arms, but they supply their own horses and wear their own native dress. During the sham fight which we witnessed this irregular cavalry executed a series of wild charges right into the kabitkas, or tents, of the villagers of Cashi, giving vent to blood-curdling and cat-like screams and yells, eminently suggestive of blood and rapine.

During our two days' stay at Askabad we were most hospitably entertained by Madame von Schoultz, whose husband was absent at St. Petersburg, and by her daughters. In her pleasant house we met Colonel Levashoff, the chief of the staff in Transcaspia, and his wife; and it was through Madame von Schoultz's intervention that we obtained,for the first time, a separate railway compartment for ourselves on the Transcaspian Railway.

We left Askabad by the mid-day train on Saturday, the 19th, occupying a very


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  compartment furnished with divans, tables, and chairs, and having a lavatory and servants' compartment attached. A couple of hours' run brought us to the station of Geok Tepe, close to which is the celebrated Turcoman fortress where, in 1881, the Akhal Tekkes, to the number of forty thousand men, women, and children, made their last heroic stand for freedom, and were hopelessly defeated and cruelly massacred by General Skobeleff. The fortress is simply a gigantic square earthwork four miles in circumference, surrounded by a deep, broad moat, and defended by high, massive mud walls and towers. The two breaches made by the Russian artillery, through which the infantry charged, are still visible, and no great effort of imagination is required to depict the bloody scene which was enacted in the interior of this now deserted Turcoman fort. We reached Uzun-Ada at seven on Sunday morning, the 20th, and as our steamer did not leave till the following day, we accepted a kind offer made to us by M. Samozensky, a lieutenant in the railway battalion, holding the post of district inspector at Uzun-Ada, who kindly placed his


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 small, wooden, three-roomed house at our entire disposal.

Uzun-ada, which is the present starting-point of the Transcaspian Railway, well deserves the description given of it to us by a Russian lady, Un trou sablonneux. It consists of nothing but hills and valleys of deep yellow sand, which contrasts brilliantly with the dark blue of the sea and the lighter blue of the sky. Not a tree or a vestige of vegetation is anywhere visible, and life here in the small wooden huts which constitute the 'town' must be utterly dreary. The only excitement appears to be the bi-weekly arrival of the post-train from Samarcand, and the occasional arrival and dispatch of a Caspian steamer. When, as it seems likely, the starting-point of the railway is shifted further north to Krasnovodsk, which possesses better harbour facilities, Uzun-ada will disappear as a European settlement even more rapidly than it has come into existence, to the infinite delight of the unfortunate officials, civil and military, who are now compelled to make it their headquarters. The wharf of Uzun-ada was encumbered with


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 innumerable bales of cotton, which is grown in great and in increasing quantities in the Tashkent and Kokand districts, whence it is conveyed on the backs of strings of patient camels a distance of over two hundred miles to Samarcand, and transported in the Transcaspian Railway for conveyance to Baku and Astracan, en route for Moscow. The steamboat agent told us that last year 25,000 tons of this cotton were shipped, and this year a consignment of double that amount is expected.


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Rh

Respiration, 135—Structure and arrangement of the gills, 136—Pseudobranchiæ, 140—Accessory respiratory organs, 142—Air-bladder; its varieties, structure, and functions, 142.

Fishes are dioecious, 157—Hermaphroditism, 157—Oviparous and viviparous fishes, 157—Generative organs of Branchiostoma, 157—of Cyclostomes; their ova, 158—Female organs of Teleosteans and their ova, 158—Instances of females taking care of their progeny, 160—Male organs of Teleosteans, 162—Instances of males taking care of their progeny, 163—Generative organs of Ganoids, 163—of Chondropterygians and their ova, 166.

Changes of form of the body or certain parts, normally accompanying growth, 170—Changes dependent on sexual development, 176—Secondary sexual differences, 176—Mixogamous, polygamous, and monogamous fishes, 177—Hybridism as a cause of variation, 178—Regular and irregular growth of fishes, 178—Leptocephali not a normal state of development, 179—Changes of colour of the muscles and external parts; chromatophors, 182—Albinism, 183.


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x

Domesticated fishes, 185—Acclimatisation of fishes, 185—Artificial impregnation of ova, 186—Tenacity of life, 186—Reproduction of lost parts, 188—Hybernation, 188—Useful fishes, 189—Poisonous fishes, 189—Poison-organs, 190.

Oldest fish-remains, 193—Devonian fishes, 194—Carboniferous, 196—Permian, 197—Triassic, 197—Liassic, 198—Oolitic, 199—Cretaceous, 199—Tertiary, 200—Post-pliocene, 201.

Freshwater-, Marine-, and Brackish-water Fishes, 202—Changes of the habitat of numerous fishes, active, 203—or dependent on geological changes, 204—Agencies operating upon the distribution of Freshwater and Marine fishes, 205.

List of Freshwater Fishes, 208—Continuous and interrupted range of distribution, 209—The ways of dispersal of Freshwater fishes, 211—A wide range of a type is not necessarily proof of its antiquity, 212—Each fauna is composed of ancient, autochthont, and immigrant species, 213—Division of the globe into zoological regions; freshwater fishes have been spread in circumpolar zones, 215—Cyprinidæ and Siluridæ, most important families in recognising the zoo-geographical regions, 216—Division of the faunæ of Freshwater fishes, 217—I. Equatorial Zone, 218—Indian Region, 220—African Region, 227—Tropical American or Neotropical Region, 233—Tropical Pacific Region, 238—II. Northern Zone, 240—Europo-Asiatic or Palæarctic Region, 243—North American or Nearctic Region, 246—III. Southern Zone, with Tasmanian, New Zealand, and Fuegian Sub-regions, 248.


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Rh

Shore-fishes, Pelagic, and Deep-sea fishes, 255—List of Shore-fishes, 257—Oceanic areæ as determined by Shore-fishes, 259—Distribution of Shore-fishes compared with that of Freshwater-fishes, 260—I. Arctic Ocean, 261—II. Northern Temperate Zone, 262—Temperate North-Atlantic, 262—with British, 263—Mediterranean, 264—and North American districts, 266—Temperate North-Pacific, 268—with Kamtschatkan, 269—Japanese, 270—and Californian districts, 271—III. Equatorial Zone, 272—with Tropical Atlantic, 278—Indo-Pacific Ocean, 278—and the Pacific Coasts of Tropical America, 279—IV. Southern Temperate Zone, 281—with the Cape of Good Hope, 283—South Australia and New Zealand, 283—Chile, 288—and Patagonia, 289—V. Antarctic Ocean, 289.

Deep-sea fishes a recent discovery, 296—Physical conditions affecting these fishes, 297—Characteristics of Deep-sea fishes, 299—Their vertical and horizontal distribution, 304—List of Deep-sea fishes, 305.


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Families: Carchariidæ (Blue Shark, Tope, Hammer-head, Hound), 316—Lamnidæ (Porbeagle, Carcharodon, Fox-Shark, Basking-Shark), 319—Rhinodontidæ, 323—Notidanidæ, 324—Scylliidæ; (Dog-fishes), 325—Hybodontidæ, 328—Cestraciontidæ (Port Jackson Shark), 328—Spinacidæ (Spiny Dogs, Greenland Shark), 330—Rhinidæ, 334—Pristiophoridæ, 335.

Families : Pristidæ (Saw-fishes) 336—Rhinobatidæ, 337—Torpedinidæ (Electric Rays), 338—Rajidæ (Rays and Skates), 340—Trygonidæ (Sting Rays), 342—Myliobatidæ (Eagle Rays), 344.

Family: Chimæridæ, 348.

Families: Sirenidæ (Lepidosiren, Protopterus, Ceratodus), 355—Ctenododipteridæ, 359—Phaneropleuridæ, 360.

Families: Acipenseridæ (Sturgeons), 360—Polyodontidæ, 362.


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102 oath, by her, and broke it; and the taper at once went out, and never could be kindled again. The visitors had no leisure for sentiment. The image was torn from its shrine. The taper was found to be a piece of painted wood, and on experiment was proved submissive to a last conflagration.

Kings are said to find the step a short one from deposition to the scaffold. The undeified images passed by a swift transition to the flames. The Lady of Worcester had been lately despoiled of her apparel. 'I trust,' wrote Latimer to the vicegerent, that 'your lordship will bestow our great sibyll to some good purpose—ut pereat memoria cum sonitu—she hath been the devil's instrument to bring many, I fear, to eternal fire. She herself, with her old sister of Walsingham, her younger sister of Ipswich, with their two other sisters of Doncaster and Penrice, would make a jolly muster in Smithfield. They would not be all day in burning.' The hard advice was taken. The objects of the passionate devotion of centuries were rolled in carts to London as huge dishonoured lumber; and the eyes of the citizens were gratified with a more innocent immolation than those with which the Church authorities had been in the habit of indulging them.

The fate of the rood of Boxley, again, was a famous incident of the time. At Boxley, in Kent, there stood an image, the eyes of which on fit occasions 'did stir


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1538.] like a lively thing.' The body bowed, the forehead frowned. It dropped its lower lip, as if to speak. The people saw in this particular rood, beyond all others, the living presence of Christ, and offerings in superabundant measure had poured in upon the monks. It happened that a rationalistic commissioner, looking closely, discovered symptoms of motion at the back of the figure. Suspicion caused inquiry, and inquiry exposure. The mystery had a natural explanation in machinery. The abbot and the elder brethren took refuge in surprise, and knew nothing. But the fact was patent; and the unveiled fraud was of a kind which might be useful. 'When I had seen this strange object,' said the discoverer, 'and considering that the inhabitants of the county of Kent had in times past a great devotion to the same image, and did keep continual pilgrimage thither, by the advice of others that were here with me, I did convey the said image unto Maidstone on the market day; and in the chief of the market time did shew it openly unto all the people then being present, to see the false, crafty, and subtle handling thereof, to the dishonour of God and illusion of the said people; who, I dare say, if the late monastery were to be defaced again (the King's Grace not offended), they would either pluck it down to the ground, or else burn it; for they have the said matter in wondrous detestation and hatred.'


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Rh Families: Polypteridæ, 364—Saurodipteridæ, 365—Coelacanthidæ, 365—Holoptychidæ, 365.

Families: Pleurolepidæ, 366—Pycnodontidæ, 366.

Families: Lepidosteidæ, 367—Sauridæ, 368—Stylodontidæ, 368—Sphærodontidæ, 368—Aspidorhynchidæ, 369—Palæoniscidæ, 369—Platysomidæ, 370.

Families: Caturidæ, 371—Leptolepidæ, 371—Amiidæ (Bow-fin), 371.

Families: Percidæ (Freshwater-Perches, Bass, Sea-Perches, Centrarchus), 375—Squamipinnes (Coral-Fishes), 397—Mullidæ (Red-Mullets), 403—Sparidæ (Sea-breams), 405—Hoplognathidæ, 410—Cirrhitidæ, 410—Scorpænidæ, 412—Nandidæ, 418—Polycentridæ, 418—Teuthididæ, 418.

Family: Berycidæ, 420.

Family: Kurtidæ, 424.

Family: Polynemidæ, 425.

Family : Sciænidæ (Meagres), 426.

Family : Xiphiidæ (Sword-fishes), 431.

Families: Trichiuridæ (Scabbard-fishes, Hair-tails), 433—Palæorhynchidæ, 437.


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xiv Families: Acronuridæ (Surgeons), 438—Carangidæ (Horse-Mackerels, Pilot-fish, Boar-fish), 440—Cyttidæ (John Dorey), 450—Stromateidæ, 452—Coryphænidæ (Dolphin, Sun-fish), 452—Nomeidæ, 455—Scombridæ (Mackerel, Tunny, Bonito, Albacore, Sucking-fish), 456—Trachinidæ (Stare-gazer, Weever, etc.), 462—Malacanthidæ, 467—Batrachidæ, 467—Psychrolutidæ, 469—Pediculati (Angler, Antennarius, etc.), 469—Cottidæ (Bull-heads, Gurnards), 476—Cataphracti (Flying Gurnards), 480—Pegasidæ, 482.

Families: Discoboli (Lump-suckers), 483—Gobiidæ (Gobies, Dragonets), 485.

Families: Cepolidæ (Band-fishes), 490—Trichonotidæ, 490—Heterolepidotidæ, 491—Blenniidæ (Wolf-fish, Blennies), 492—Acanthoclinidæ, 498—Mastacembelidæ, 499.

Families: Sphyrænidæ (Barracudas), 499—Atherinidæ (Atherines), 500—Mugilidæ (Mullets), 501.

Families: Gastrosteidæ (Stickle-backs), 504—Fistulariidæ (Flute-mouths), 507.

Family: Centriscidæ, 508.

Family: Gobiesocidæ, 512.

Family: Ophiocephalidæ, 513.

Families: Labyrinthici (Climbing Perch, Gourami), 514—Luciocephalidæ, 519.

Family: Lophotidæ, 519.


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104 But the rood was not allowed to be forgotten after a single exhibition; the imposture was gross, and would furnish a wholesome comment on the suppression, if it was shown off in London. From Maidstone, therefore, it was taken to the palace at Whitehall, and performed before the Court. From, the palace it was carried on to its last judgment and execution at Paul's Cross. It was placed upon a stage opposite the pulpit, and passed through its postures, while the Bishop of Rochester lectured upon it in a sermon. When the crowd was worked into adequate indignation, the scaffold was made to give way, the image fell, and in a few moments was torn in pieces.

Thus in all parts of England superstition was attacked in its strongholds, and destroyed there. But the indignation which was the natural recoil from credulity would not be satisfied with the destruction of images. The idol was nothing. The guilt was not with the wood and stone, but in the fraud and folly which had practised with these brute instruments against the souls of men. In Scotland and the Netherlands the work of retribution was accomplished by a rising of the people themselves in armed revolution. In England the readiness of the Government spared the


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1538.] need of a popular explosion; the monasteries were not sacked by mobs, or the priests murdered; but the same fierceness, the same hot spirit of anger, was abroad, though confined within the restraints of the law. The law itself gave effect, in harsh and sanguinary penalties, to the rage which had been kindled.

The punishments under the Act of Supremacy were not wholly censurable. No Governments can permit, their subjects to avow an allegiance to an alien and hostile power; and the executions were occasioned, I have observed already, by the same necessity, and must be regarded with the same feelings, as the deaths of brave men in battle, who, in questions of life and death, take their side to kill others or be killed. A blind animosity now betrays itself in an act of needless cruelty, for the details of which no excuse can be pleaded by custom or precedent, which clouds the memory of the greatest of the Reformers, and can be endured only, when regarded at a distance, as an instance of the wide justice of Providence, which punishes wrong by wrong, and visits on single men the offences of thousands.

Forest, the late Prior of the Observants' Convent at Greenwich, since the dissolution of his order in consequence of the affair of the Nun of Kent, had halted between a state of concealed disaffection and pretended conformity. In his office of confessor he was found to have instructed his penitents that, for himself, 'he had denied the Bishop of Rome in his outward, but not in his inward man;' and he had encouraged them, notwithstanding their oath, to persevere in their own


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106 He had thus laid himself open to prosecution for treason; and whatever penalty was due to an avowal of being the Pope's liegeman had been doubly earned by treachery. If he had been tried and had suffered like Sir Thomas More and the Monks of the Charterhouse, his sentence would have ranked with theirs. The same causes which explained the executions of honourable men would have applied with greater force to that of one who had deepened his offences by duplicity. But the Crown prosecutors, for some unknown reason, bestowed upon him a distinction in suffering.

When first arrested he was terrified: he acknowledged his offences, submitted, and was pardoned. But his conscience recovered its strength: he returned to his loyalty to the Papacy; he declared his belief that, in matters spiritual, the Pope was his proper sovereign, that the Bishop of Rochester was a martyr, as Thomas à Becket had been a martyr. Becket he held up as the pattern of all churchmen's imitation, courting for himself Becket's fortunes. Like others, he attempted a


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1538.] distinction in the nature of allegiance. 'In matters secular his duty was to his prince.' But, on the threshold of the exception lay the difficulty which no Catholic could evade—what was the duty of a subject when a king was excommunicated, and declared to have forfeited his crown?

Forest, therefore, fell justly under the treason law. But, inasmuch as Catholic churchmen declared the denial of the Pope's supremacy to be heresy, so, for a few unfortunate months, English churchmen determined the denial of the King's supremacy to be heresy; Forest was to be proceeded against for an offence against spiritual truth as well as a crime against the law of the land; and Cranmer is found corresponding with Cromwell on the articles on which he was to be examined. I do not know that the document which I am about to quote was composed for this special occasion. For the first, and happily the last time, the meaning of it was acted upon.

In an official paper of about this date, I find 'heresy' defined to be 'that which is against Scripture.' 'To say, therefore, that Peter and his successors be heads of the universal Church, and stand stubbornly in it, is heresy, because it is against Scripture (Ecclesiastes v.);


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108 where it is written, 'Insuper universæ terræ rex imperat servienti'—that is to say, the King commandeth the whole country as his subjects; and therefore it followeth that the Bishop of Rome, which is in Italy where the Emperor is king, is subject to the Emperor, and that the Emperor may command him; and if he should be head of the universal Church, then he should be head over the Emperor, and command the Emperor, and that is directly against the said text, Ecclesiastes v. Wherefore, to stand in it opiniatively is heresy.' In the spirit, if not in the letter of this monstrous reasoning, Forest was indicted for heresy in a court where we would gladly believe that Cranmer did not sit as president. He was found guilty, and was delivered over, in the usual form, to the secular arm.

An accidental coincidence contributed to the dramatic effect of his execution. In a chapel at Llan Dderfel, in North Wales, there had stood a figure of an ancient Welsh saint, called Dderfel Gadern. The figure was a general favourite. The Welsh people 'came daily in pilgrimage to him, some with kyne, some with oxen and horses, and the rest with money, insomuch' (I quote a letter of Ellis Price, the Merionethshire visitor) 'that there were five or six hundred, to a man's estimation, that offered to the said image the fifth day of this month of April. The innocent people hath been sore allured and enticed to worship, insomuch that there is a common saying amongst them


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1538.] that, whosoever will offer anything to the image of Dderfel Gadern, he hath power to fetch him or them that so offer, out of hell.' The visitor desired to know what he should do with Dderfel Gadern, and received orders to despatch the thing at once to London. The parishioners offered to subscribe forty pounds to preserve their profitable possession, but in vain—Cromwell was ruthless. The image was sent to the same destination with the rest of his kind; and, arriving opportunely, it was hewn into fuel to form the pile where the victim of the new heresy court was to suffer.

A day at the end of May was fixed for Forest's death. Latimer was selected to preach on the occasion; and a singular letter remains from him from which I try to gather that he accepted reluctantly ths ungrateful service. 'Sir,' he addressed Cromwell, 'if it be your pleasure, as it is, that I shall play the fool after my customable manner when Forest shall suffer, I would wish that my stage stood near unto Forest, for I would endeavour myself so to content the people, that therewith I might also convert Forest, God so helping, or, rather, altogether working. Wherefore, I would that he shall hear what I shall say—si forte. If he would yet, with his heart, return to his abjuration, I would wish his pardon, such is my foolishness.' The gleam of pity, though so faint and feeble that it


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xvi

, Saury, Half-beak, Flying Fish), 619—Esocidæ (Pike), 623—Galaxiidæ, 624—Mormyridæ, 625—Sternoptychidæ, 627—Stomiatidæ, 629. Families of Physostomi continued—Salmonidæ: Salmo, difficulty of distinguishing species, 630; constant specific characters, 635—hybrids, 638—sexual development, 638—migratory species and their retention in freshwater, 639—Growth of Salmonoids, 641—their domestication and acclimatisation, 641—species enumerated, 642—Smelt and Capelin, 646—Coregonus, 647—Grayling, 649—marine genera, 650. Families of Physostomi continued: Percopsidæ, 651—Haplochitonidæ, 651—Gonorhynchidæ, 652—Hyodontidæ (Moon-eye), 653—Pantodontidæ, 653—Osteoglossidæ, 653—Clupeidæ (Herrings, Anchovies, Shads, Mossbanker, Menhaden, etc.), 655—Bathythrissidæ, 663—Chirocentridæ, 663—Alepocephalidæ, 664—Notopteridæ, 664—Halosauridæ, 665—Hoplopleuridæ, 665—Gymnotidæ (Electric Eel), 666—Symbranchidæ, 668—Murænidæ (Eels, Congers, Murænas, etc.), 669.

Families: Solenostomidæ, 678—Syngnathidæ (Pipe-fishes, Sea-horses), 679.

Families: Sclerodermi (File-fishes, Coffer-fishes), 684—Gymnodontes (Globe-fishes, Sunfish), 686.

Families: Petromyzontidæ (Lampreys), 691—Myxinidæ, 694.

Family: Cirrhostomi (Lancelets), 696.


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110 seemed a thing to be ashamed of, is welcome from that hard time. The preparations were made with a horrible completeness. It was the single supremacy case which was conducted upon ecclesiastical principles, and where treason was identified with heresy. A gallows was erected over the stake, from which the wretched victim was to be suspended in a cradle of chains. When the machinery was complete, and the chips of the idol lay ready, he was brought out and placed upon a platform. The Lord Mayor, the Dukes of Norfolk and Suffolk, Lord Southampton, and Cromwell were present with a pardon, if at the last moment his courage should fail, and he would ask for it. The sermon began. It was of the usual kind—the passionate language of passionate conviction. When it was over Latimer turned to Forest, and asked him whether he would live or die. 'I will die,' was the gallant answer. 'Do your worst upon me. Seven years ago you durst not, for your life, have preached such words as these; and now, if an angel from heaven should come down and teach me any other doctrine than that which I learnt as a child, I would not believe him. Take me; cut me to pieces, joint from joint. Burn—hang—do what you will—I will be true henceforth to my faith.' It was enough. He was laid upon his iron bed, and slung off into the air, and the flame was kindled. In his mortal agony he clutched at the steps of the ladder, to sway himself out of the blaze; and the pitiless chronicler, who records


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Rh Family: Trachypteridæ (Ribbon-fishes), 520.

Family: Notacanthidæ, 523.

Families: Pomacentridæ (Coral-fishes), 524—Labridæ (Wrasses, Parrot-wrasses), 525—Embiotocidæ, 533—Chromides, 534.

Families: Lycodidæ, 537—Gadidæ (Cod-fishes, Hake, Burbot, Ling, Rockling, Torsk), 539—Ophidiidæ (Brotula, Fierasfer, Sand-eel, Congrogadus), 546—Macruridæ, 551.

Family: Pleuronectidæ (Flat-fishes), 553.

Families: Siluridæ; their skeleton, 559—divided into eight subdivisions and sixteen groups; Clariina, 563—Plotosina, 563—Silurina, 565—Hypophthalmina, 566—Bagrina, 567—Amiurina, 567—Pimelodina, 568—Ariina, 569—Doradina, 572—Rhinoglanina, 573—Malapterurina (Electric Catfish), 574—Hypostomatina (Preñadillas, Loricaria, etc.), 575—Aspredinina, 580—Nematogenyina and Trichomycterina, 581—Stegopholina, 581. Families of Physostomi continued: Scopelidæ, 582—Cyprinidæ (Carps), 587—divided into fourteen groups, viz. Catostomina (Suckers), 588—Cyprinina (Carp, Crucian Carp, Goldfish, Barbels, Gudgeons), 589—Rohteichthyina, 596—Leptobarbina, 597—Rasborina, 597—Semiplotina, 598—Xenocypridina, 598—Leuciscina (White fish, Tench, Dace, etc.), 598—Rhodeina, 601—Danionina, 601—Hypophthalmichthyina, 602—Abramidina (Bream, Bleak), 602—Homalopterina, 604—Cobitidina (Loaches), 604. Families of Physostomi continued: Kneriidæ, 606—Characinidæ, 606—Cyprinodontidæ, 613—Heteropygii (Blind Fish of the Mammoth Cave), 618—Umbridæ, 619—Scombresocidæ (


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21O of our liberty. "But," he continued, "as regards confession: how stands it with you? We are told that all men, even if they are not Christians, must confess, but that inasmuch as many, from their obduracy, are debarred from the right way, they nevertheless make confession to an old tree; which, indeed, is impious and ridiculous enough, but yet serves to show, that at least they recognise the necessity of confession." Upon this I explained to him our Lutheran notions of confession, and our practice concerning it. All this appeared to him very easy, for he expressed an opinion that it was almost the same as confessing to a tree. After a brief hesitation, he begged of me very gravely to inform him correctly on another point. He had, forsooth, heard from the mouth of his own confessor (who, he said, was a truthful man), that we Protestants are at liberty to marry our own sisters; which assuredly is a chose un peu forte. As I denied this to be the case, and attempted to give him a more favourable opinion of our doctrine, he made no special remark on the latter, which evidently appeared to him a very ordinary and every-day sort of a thing, but turned aside my remarks by a new question." We have been assured," he observed, "that Frederick the Great, who has won so many victories, even over the faithful, and filled the world with his glory,—that he whom every one takes to be a heretic is really a Catholic, and has received a dispensation from the Pope to keep the fact secret. For while, as is well known, he never enters any of your churches, he diligently attends the true worship in a subterranean chapel, though with a broken heart, because he dare not openly avow the holy religion, since, were he to do so, his Prussians, who are a brutish people and furious heretics, would no doubt murder him on the instant; and to risk that would do no good to the cause. On these grounds the Holy Father has given him permission to worship in secret,


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Rh in return for which he quietly does as much as possible to propagate and to favour the true and only saving faith." I allowed all this to pass, merely observing, as it was so great a secret, no one could be a witness to its truth. The rest of our conversation was nearly of the same cast; so that I could not but admire the shrewd priests, who sought to parry and to distort whatever was likely to enlighten or vary the dark outline of their traditional dogmas.

I left Perugia on a glorious morning, and felt the happiness of being once more alone. The site of the city is beautiful, and the view of the lake in the highest degree refreshing. These scenes are deeply impressed on my memory. At first the road went downwards, then it entered a cheerful valley enclosed on both sides by distant hills, till at last Assisi lay before us.

Here, as I had learned from Palladio and Volckmann, a noble Temple of Minerva, built in the time of Augustus, was still standing, in perfect repair. At Madonna del Angelo, therefore, I quitted my vetturino, leaving him to proceed by himself to Foligno, and set off, in the face of a strong wind, for Assisi; for I longed for a foot-journey through a country so solitary for me. I left on my left the vast mass of churches, piled Babel-wise one over another (in one of which rest the remains of the holy St. Francis of Assisi), with aversion; for I thought to myself, that the people who assembled in them were mostly of the same stamp as my captain and travelling-companion. Having asked of a good-looking youth the way to the Della Minerva, he accompanied me to the top of the town, for it lies on the side of a hill. At last we reached what is properly the old town; and, behold! before my eyes stood the noble edifice,—the first complete memorial of antiquity that I had ever seen. A modest temple, as befitting so small a town, and yet so perfect, so well


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212 conceived, that anywhere it would be an ornament. Moreover, in these matters, how grand were the ancients in the choice of their sites! The temple stands about half-way up the mountain, where two hills meet on the level place which is to this day called the Piazza. This itself slightly rises, and is intersected by the meeting of four roads, which make a somewhat dilated St. Andrew's cross. Probably the houses which are now opposite the temple, and block up the view from it, were not standing there in ancient times. If they were removed, we should have a south prospect over a rich and fertile country, and at the same time the Temple of Minerva would be visible from all sides. The line of the roads is, in all probability, very ancient, since they follow the shape and inclination of the hill. The temple does not stand in the centre of the flat; but its site is so arranged, that the traveller approaching from Rome catches a fine foreshortened view of it. To give an idea of it, it is necessary to draw, not only the building itself, but also its happily chosen site.

Looking at the façade, I could not sufficiently admire the genius-like identity of design which the architects have here as elsewhere maintained. The order is Corinthian, the inter-columnar spaces being somewhat above two modules. The bases of the columns and the plinths seem to rest on pedestals, but it is only an appearance. The socle is cut through in five places; and, at each of these, five steps ascend between the columns, and bring you to a level, on which properly the columns rest, and from which, also, you enter the temple. The bold idea of cutting through the socle was happily hazarded; for, as the temple is situated on a hill, the flight of steps must otherwise have been carried up to such a height as would have inconveniently narrowed the area of the temple. As it is, however, it is impossible to determine how many steps there originally were; for, with the


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Rh exception of a very few, they are all choked up with dirt, or paved over. Most reluctantly did I tear myself from the sight, and determined to call the attention of architects to this noble edifice, in order that an accurate draught of it may be furnished. For what a sorry thing tradition is, I here again find occasion to remark. Palladio, whom I trust in every matter, gives, indeed, a sketch of this temple. But certainly he never can have seen it himself: for he gives it real pedestals above the area, by which means the columns appear disproportionately high, and the result is a sort of unsightly Palmyrene monstrosity; whereas, in fact, its look is so full of repose and beauty as to satisfy both the eye and the mind. The impression which the sight of this edifice left upon me is not to be expressed, and will bring forth imperishable fruits. It was a beautiful evening, and I now turned to descend the mountain, As I was proceeding along the Roman road, calm and composed, suddenly I heard behind me some rough voices in dispute. I fancied that it was only the Sbirri, whom I had previously noticed in the town. I therefore went on without care, but still with my ears listening to what they might be saying behind me. I soon became aware that I was the object of their remarks. Four men of this body (two of whom were armed with guns) passed me in the rudest way possible, muttering to each other, and, turning back after a few steps, suddenly surrounded me. They demanded my name, and what I was doing there. I said that I was a stranger, and had travelled on foot to Assisi while my vetturino had gone on to Foligno. It appeared to them very improbable that any one should pay for a carriage, and yet travel on foot. They asked me if I had been visiting the Gran Convento. I answered "No," but assured them that I knew the building of old; but, being an architect, my chief object this time was simply to obtain a sight of the