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XII] liver us out of the hand of our enemies, and we will serve thee. And the Lord sent Jerubbaal, and Bedan, and Jephthah, and Samuel, and delivered you out of the hand of your enemies on every side, and ye dwelled safe. And when ye saw that Nahash the king of the children of Ammon came against you, ye said unto me, Nay; but a king shall reign over us: when the Lord your God was your king. Now therefore behold the king whom ye have chosen, and whom ye have desired! and, behold, the Lord hath set a king over you. If ye will fear the Lord, and serve him, and obey his voice, and not rebel against the commandment of the Lord, then shall both ye and also the king that reigneth over you continue following the Lord your God: but if ye will not obey the voice of the Lord, but rebel against the commandment of the Lord, then shall the hand of the Lord be against you, as it was against your fathers. Now therefore stand and see this great thing, which the Lord will do before your eyes. Is it not wheat harvest to day? I will call unto the Lord, and he shall send thunder and rain; that ye may perceive and see that your wickedness is great, which ye have done in the sight of the Lord, in asking you a king.

So Samuel called unto the Lord; and the Lord sent thunder and rain that day: and all the people greatly


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Rh feared the Lord and Samuel. And all the people said unto Samuel, Pray for thy servants unto the Lord thy God, that we die not: for we have added unto all our sins this evil, to ask us a king.

And Samuel said unto the people, Fear not: ye have done all this wickedness: yet turn not aside from following the Lord, but serve the Lord with all your heart; and turn ye not aside: for then should ye go after vain things, which cannot profit nor deliver; for they are vain. For the Lord will not forsake his people for his great name's sake: because it hath pleased the Lord to make you his people. Moreover as for me, God forbid that I should sin against the Lord in ceasing to pray for you: but I will teach you the good and the right way: only fear the Lord, and serve him in truth with all your heart: for consider how great things he hath done for you. But if ye shall still do wickedly, ye shall be consumed, both ye and your king.

reigned one year; and when he had reigned two years over Israel, Saul chose him three thousand men of Israel; whereof two thousand were with Saul in Michmash and in mount Beth-el, and a thousand were with Jonathan in Gibeah of Benjamin: and the rest of the people he sent every man to his tent. And Jonathan smote the garrison of the Philistines that

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XIII] was in Geba, and the Philistines heard of it. And Saul blew the trumpet throughout all the land, saying, Let the Hebrews hear. And all Israel heard say that Saul had smitten a garrison of the Philistines, and that Israel also was had in abomination with the Philistines. And the people were called together after Saul to Gilgal.

And the Philistines gathered themselves together to fight with Israel, thirty thousand chariots, and six thousand horsemen, and people as the sand which is on the sea shore in multitude: and they came up, and pitched in Michmash, eastward from Beth-aven. When the men of Israel saw that they were in a strait, (for the people were distressed,) then the people did hide themselves in caves, and in thickets, and in rocks, and in high places, and in pits. And some of the Hebrews went over Jordan to the land of Gad and Gilead. As for Saul, he was yet in Gilgal, and all the people followed him trembling.

And he tarried seven days, according to the set time that Samuel had appointed: but Samuel came not to Gilgal; and the people were scattered from him. And Saul said, Bring hither a burnt offering to me, and peace offerings. And he offered the burnt offering. And it came to pass, that as soon as he had made an end of offering the burnt offering, behold, Samuel


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Rh came; and Saul went out to meet him, that he might salute him.

And Samuel said, What hast thou done? And Saul said, Because I saw that the people were scattered from me, and that thou camest not within the days appointed, and that the Philistines gathered themselves together at Michmash; therefore said I, The Philistines will come down now upon me to Gilgal, and I have not made supplication unto the Lord: I forced myself therefore, and offered a burnt offering. And Samuel said to Saul, Thou hast done foolishly: thou hast not kept the commandment of the Lord thy God, which he commanded thee: for now would the Lord have established thy kingdom upon Israel for ever. But now thy kingdom shall not continue: the Lord hath sought him a man after his own heart, and the Lord hath commanded him to be captain over his people, because thou hast not kept that which the Lord commanded thee. And Samuel arose, and gat him up from Gilgal unto Gibeah of Benjamin. And Saul numbered the people that were present with him, about six hundred men. And Saul, and Jonathan his son, and the people that were present with them, abode in Gibeah of Benjamin: but the Philistines encamped in Michmash.

And the spoilers came out of the camp of the


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XIV in three companies: one company turned unto the way that leadeth to Ophrah, unto the land of Shual: and another company turned the way to Beth-horon: and another company turned to the way of the border that looketh to the valley of Zeboim toward the wilderness.

Now there was no smith found throughout all the land of Israel: for the Philistines said, Lest the Hebrews make them swords or spears: but all the Israelites went down to the Philistines, to sharpen every man his share, and his coulter, and his axe, and his mattock. Yet they had a file for the mattocks, and for the coulters, and for the forks, and for the axes, and to sharpen the goads. So it came to pass in the day of battle, that there was neither sword nor spear found in the hand of any of the people that were with Saul and Jonathan: but with Saul and with Jonathan his son was there found. And the garrison of the Philistines went out to the passage of Michmash.

Now it came to pass upon a day, that Jonathan the son of Saul said unto the young man that bare his armour, Come, and let us go over to the Philistines' garrison, that is on the other side. But he told not his father. And Saul tarried in the uttermost part of Gibeah under a pomegranate tree which is in Migron: and the people that were with him were about six


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Rh given by His Excellency, the Governor of Puebla, Señor Don Ignacio Romero y Vargas. At the banquet Mr. Seward excused himself from making any lengthy speech in answer to the toasts in his honor, on the ground that he had already said enough to fully convey his ideas of matters and things in Mexico since he landed at Manzanillo, and did not care to impress his own countrymen with the idea that he was becoming unduly garrulous and loquacious. He said of Mexico:

"The season of her calamities is ended; Mexico is still youthful, ambitious, hopeful. She possesses all the material and moral elements of national greatness. All that her people want is rest and peace, for five years, ten years, twenty years or fifty years; the longer the better; and she may now assume the way that leads to prosperity and power among the nations. For this reason, when at Vera Cruz I shall be bidding adieu to Mexico, I shall wrest the inscription, "Requiescat in pace" from its customary application to the dead, and use it with all the inspiration of hope, affection, and gratitude, as an invocation of a blessing upon the living, "Mexico Requiescat in Pace!"

The stupid ignorance of the numerous seekers after the treasure supposed to have been buried in the United States by that famous Captain, whose "name was Robert Kidd, when I sailed, when I sailed," and the Californian expeditionists in search of the pirate treasure buried on Cocos Island, has its parallel in that of the buried treasure hunters of Mexico to-day. All over the country the impression prevails, that the Jesuits, when suddenly expelled from Mexico by the Spanish Government, buried, or otherwise concealed millions of


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438 dollars worth of treasure, gold and silver statues, church plate, jewels, etc., etc., and millions have been expended and are still being expended, in search of the precious deposits.

Mr. Adolpho Blumenkron is one of the most inveterate of these treasure seekers. As we rode out of the city, we were shown several old convent and church structures of great extent, now secularized, which he has purchased, and mined under and burrowed about, like a ferret, in search of the treasure of the Fathers, but always with the same total want of success. He told us, how on one occasion he found the vault in which were buried some of the old church dignitaries of Cortez's time, and looking down into it, was gladdened by the sight of two mummies each with a golden crown upon his head. He was into that vault in no time, with the help of Providence and a crowbar, and bore the glittering crowns out to the light of day. Fancy his feelings, when with trembling hands he applied a file to the gaudy baubles, and found them to be a base cheat, a sham, bilk, delusion, fraud, and rascally imposition! Would you believe it? those crowns were made of tin or some other base metal, and gilded, and if the holy fathers ever had any others—save the final crown of glory—they were not buried in them, for reasons best known to themselves or their servants.

It is believed that there were twelve statues of the Apostles of life size, made wholly from silver and gold, in the Jesuit College, and that the fathers—having received a secret intimation of the intention of the Government—buried them somewhere thereabouts, and the search for them is not yet abandoned.

In the City of Mexico, an apparently better founded


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Rh search is going on. It is well known that when Guatamozin was finally defeated by the Spaniards, the immense treasures which he was supposed to possess could not be found; and that the pious conquerors roasted him at a tree still standing at Chapultepec, to make him reveal their place of concealment.

"This is not a bed of roses," is said to have been his quiet remark as they grilled him, but he never let up, and the secret—if there was any—died with him. Now, they have what purports to be the will of Guatamozin, in the Aztec language, setting forth the secret of the deposit, alleging that it was in the ground near where the last fight took place on the outskirts of the City of Mexico, and providing that his descendants should never reveal it nor search for the treasure until the power of the Spanish should be broken, and even then, that no Spaniard should ever be allowed to profit by it. Now, when the power of Spain on the continent of America is broken, and the Church she founded in Mexico, in blood and outrage, has lost, or is fast losing its hold on the people, a descendant of Guatamozin produces the will, and directs the search for the long buried treasure. I found that Col. Enrique Mejia and other ripe scholars in whose judgment I would implicitly rely, believed the will to be genuine, and that the treasure was really buried in the vicinity of the spot where the search is now being made, though they think the chances of the search being successful, after the lapse of centuries and the changes which have taken place in the locality, as extremely problematical, to say the least, and they do not take stock in the enterprise.

We had heard much of the religious bigotry and fanatical hatred of foreigners—especially Americans—


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 beyond; what could money do for the gentleman-adventurer burning with anticipation of heroic exploration? Such thoughts must have passed through my brain, inasmuch as I invested 75 per cent of my cash in the purchase of a cattle dog. Poor Dora, she barked her last some thirty-five years agone.

On the next day we crossed the Moonee Ponds at Flemington, took the Keilor road, and managed to bustle our mob all the way to the Werribee. A slightly unfair journey; but the summer day was long, and we made the river with the fading light about eight. I had a reason, too. Here bivouacked my good old friend the late William Ryrie, of Yering. He, too, was journeying to the west country with a large drove of Upper Yarra stores. He had kindly consented to join forces—an arrangement more to my advantage than his. So, as his cattle were drawing into camp, I cheerfully "boxed" mine therewith, and relieved myself by the act of further anxiety.

Night watches were duly set, after an evening meal of a truly luxurious character. I felt at odd moments as if I would have given all the world for a doze unrebuked. At last the whole four mortal hours came to an end. Then I understood, almost for the first time in my life, what "first-class sleep" really meant.

At sunrise I awoke much fresher than paint, and walking to the door of the tent, which held three stretchers—those of the leader of the party, his brother Donald, and myself—looked out upon the glorious far-stretching wild. What a sight was there,

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 THIS IS CAPTAIN CHARON.


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 "MASHERS."


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 SLOW PEOPLE MADE ACTIVE.


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 HE CLIMBED UP IN THE WORLD AND THEN FORGOT THE FRIENDS WHO HELPED HIM CLIMB.


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 FATE OF A HYPNOTIST.


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 BORING A BORE.


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 HE STOLE AN INVENTION.


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 HE WALKED OVER OTHERS.


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 HE ATE LIKE A PIG.


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 HUNTING SCAPEGOATS.


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 MAKING THE BEST OF IT. Bad Actor: "Well, anyway, there's one comforting thing about this region; no matter how bad one acts, he can't get a frost."


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 THE INVENTOR OF THE BARB-WIRE FENCE.


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 THE FALL OF A DECEIVING LAND-AGENT.


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 A TASK OF PERPETUAL SHOVELLING.


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 Through hell with Hiprah Hunt pg 87.jpg EXEMPT.


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 HE POKED ABOUT IN OTHER PEOPLE'S AFFAIRS.


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 HIPRAH HUNT TAKES A RIDE IN AN AUTOMOBILE.


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 THE BUCKET-SHOP GAMBLERS.


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 PLAYING TAG WITH PEOPLE WHO "JUMP AT CONCLUSIONS."


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 A CASE OF SELFISHNESS.


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 A HAUGHTY CONDUCTOR.


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 THE OVERCROWDED COLD-STORAGE PIT.


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 HE WOULDN'T BLANKET HIS HORSE.


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 FATE OF A CARELESS DENTIST.


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 HAVING FUN WITH A BRUTAL POLICEMAN.


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 EXCITING SPORT.


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 THE PENALTY FOR CAT-STARVING.


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 SATAN ON A TOUR OF INSPECTION.


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 A HELL THEATRE.


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 THE FLATTERERS.


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 Through hell with Hiprah Hunt pg 127.jpg ARRIVAL OF A FOOT-BALL CHAMPION.


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 A CAPTAIN OF THE POLICE FORCE.


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 A SWEARING MAN FORCED TO EAT SOAP.


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 A LIVELY DANCE.


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 SHOOTING THE INFERNAL SHUTE.


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 have read books and studied the rules of good breeding in the language of the Arabs. But I have no need to vaunt my own Prowess to thee more by token, as thou hast provided in thy proper person my skill and strength in wrestling, and thou hast learnt my superiority over other women. Nor, indeed, had Sharrkan himself been here this night and it were said to him:—Clear this stream! could he have done it; and I only long and lust that the Messiah would throw him into my hands in this very convent, that I might go forth to him in the habit of a man and drag him from his saddle-seat and make him my captive and lay him in bilboes,"——And Shahrazad perceived the dawn of day and ceased to say her permitted say. END OF VOL. I.


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 of the Messiah, thou hast proved thyself with me a man of keen wit; but now I see what mischief there is in thy heart, and how thou canst permit thyself a speech which proveth thy traitorous intent. How should I do as thou sayest, when I wot that if I came to that King of yours, Omar bin al-Nu'uman, I should never get free from him? For truly he hath not the like of me or behind his city walls or within his palace-halls, Lord of Baghdad and of Khorasan though he be, who hath built for himself twelve pavilions, in number as the months of the year, and in each a concubine after the number of the days; and if I come to him he would not prove shy of me, for your folk believe I am lawful to have and to hold as is said in your writ: —Or those women whom your right hand shall possess as slaves. So how canst thou speak thus to me? As for thy saying: —Thou shalt look upon the braves of the Moslems, by the truth of the Messiah, thou sayest that which is not true, for I saw your army when it reached our land these two days ago, and I did not see that your ordinance was the ordinance of Kings, but I beheld only a rabble of tribesmen gathered together. And as to thy words: —Thou shalt know who I am. I did not do thee kindness because of thy dignity, but out of pride in myself, and the like of thee should not talk thus to the like of me, even wert thou Sharrkan, Omar bin al-Nu'uman's son, the prowest name in these days." "Knowest thou Sharrkan?" asked he. And she answered, "Yes; and I know of his coming with an army numbering ten thousand horsemen. Also that he was sent by his sire with this force to gain prevalence for the King of Constantinople." "O my lady," said Sharrkan, "I adjure thee by thy religion, tell me the cause of all this, that sooth may appear to me clear of untruth, and with whom the fault lies." "Now, by the virtue of thy faith," she replied, "did I not fear lest the news of me be bruited abroad that I am of the daughters of Roum, I would adventure myself and sally forth single-handed against the ten thousand horsemen and slay their leader, the Wazir Dandan, and vanquish their champion Sharrkan. Nor would aught of shame accrue to me thereby, for I


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Page:Our New Zealand Cousins.djvu/7

 BY

("Maori"),

London:

SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON

CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET

1887

[All rights reserved]

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first chapter of this book explains the circumstances under which I undertook the work, and renders a long preface unnecessary.

Being originally written for the Sydney Press, my descriptions, penned as we journeyed, have all the drawbacks incident to hasty composition; but I have had so many, and so gratifying requests, to have the letters published in book form, by friends, whose good opinion is dear to me, that I feel it would be prudish to refuse. Frankly confessing my shortcomings therefore, I throw myself once more on the merciful consideration of my critics.

Allusions and comparisons, will be found scattered at intervals through the book, which are more peculiarly applicable to Australians, than to the wider circle of readers at home; but as, I believe, such references may be found to incidentally illusrate phases of Colonial life, and circumstance, I have deemed it on the whole better to retain them.

Mindful of former criticism, I have honestly tried to "prune my style," and curb my natural exuberance of expression; but alas! I am conscious

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 that I have yet much to learn, and that there is great room for improvement in these and other respects.

However, if the reader will accept my pages, as a homely unpretending record of a very delightful trip, through "The Wonderland of the South Pacific," I hope my comments on what we witnessed, and my revelation of the change and progress, effected by twenty years of colonization, may prove both interesting and instructive.

I have tried to describe simply and truthfully what I saw, and what I thought. My most earnest hope is, that what I have written may enkindle in the hearts of our kinsmen in the dear old mother land, who may read this book, a livelier, deeper, and kindlier interest in the fortunes of their loyal and loving Cousins, of Australia and New Zealand. J.I.

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 pare them, and turn them round with your knife; put them into your pan without scalding, and put as much sugar, boiled very smooth, as will cover them; then manage them on the fire as the whole apricots, scum them, and set them in the stove; the next day boil some more sugar, very strong, drain the syrup from the apricots, boil it very smooth, put it to the fresh sugar, and give it a boil; then put in the apricots, boil them first round, and then let them have a covered boil; scum them and cover them with paper, then put them into the stove for two or three days; drain them, and lay them out to dry, first dusting them.

Pare and stone your apricots, then scald them a little; then lay them in your pan, and put as much clarified sugar to them as will cover them; the next day drain the syrup, and boil it smooth; the slip in your apricots, and boil as before; the next day make a jelly with codlings, boiling some apricots among them to give a better taste; when you have boiled the jelly to its proper height, put in the apricots with their syrup, and boil altogether; when enough, scum them well, and put them into your glasses.

Gather your codlings when they are about the size of a walnut, and let the stalk and a leaf or two remain on each; put some vine leaves in a brass pan of spring water, and cover them with a layer of codlings, then another of vine leaves, and proceed in the same manner till the pan is full; cover it close to keep the steam in, and set it on a slow fire; when they become soft, take off the skins with a penknife; then put them in


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 in the same water with the vine leaves; it must be quite cold, or it perhaps may crack them; put a little roach allum, and set them over a very slow fire till they are green {which will be in about three or four hours), then take them out, and lay them on a sieve to drain; make a good syrup, and give them a gentle boil once a day for three days, after which put them into small jars. Cover them with brandy-paper, and keep them for use.

To preserve Green Pease.

Shell fine young pease, and put them into boiling water with some salt; after boiling five minutes, drain them in a cullender, and put them on a cloth doubled five or six times, on a table; let them lie free, in order to dry. Your bottles should be prepared before-hand, and be quite clean and dry. Fill them with the pease, and put on the top some mutton fat tryed; tie a bladder with a thin board or lath over them, and let them be put in cool dry closet or cellar; boil your water when you use them, and put in a little butter, salt, and sugar; and as soon as they are enough, drain them, and put them into a sauce-pan with some butter, and shake it while it is melting. Pease done this way will keep good till Christmas.

Split the nectarins, and take out the stones; then put them into clarified sugar, and boil them round till they have well taken the sugar; take off the scum, cover them with a paper, and set them by; the next day boil a little more sugar, till it blows very strong, put it to the nectarins, and give them a good boil; take off the scum, cover them


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 them and put them into the stove; the following day drain them, and lay them out to dry, first dusting them a little; then put them into the stove.

Take the Newington peach, when full ripe, split it and take out the stone; then have ready a pan of boiling water, drop in the peaches, and let them have a few moments scalding; take them out, and put them into as much sugar, only clarified, as will cover them; give them a boil round, then scum them and set them by till the next day; then boil some more sugar to blow very strong, which sugar put to the peaches and give them a good boil; scum them and set them by till the day following; then give them another good boil; scum them, and put them into a warm stove for the space of two days; then drain them and lay them out, one half over the other, dust them and put them into the stove; the next day turn and dust them, and, when thorough dry, pack them up for use.

Pare your peaches and take out the stones, then cut them into very thin slices, not thicker than the blade of a knife; then, to every pound of chips take one pound and a half of sugar, boiled to blow very strong; throw in the chips, give them a good boil, and let them settle a little; take off the scum, let them stand a quarter of an hour, and then give them another good boil, and let them settle as before; then take off the scum, cover them and set them by, and the next day drain them and lay them out, bit by bit; dust them and dry them in a warm stove; when


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PAGE

CHAPTER I. 1

CHAPTER II. 17

CHAPTER III. 25

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 when dry on one side, take them from the plate with a knife, and turn them on a sieve,, and again afterwards, if they are not pretty dry; but which they generally are.

First preserve your peaches whole, with their weight of sugar; do not scald them in water, but boil them in the syrup three times; lay your peaches in a large deep glass for the purpose, take the syrup and pour it over them, with an equal quantity of brandy; cover them close and keep them for use. Nectarines may be done in the same way.

Violet plumbs are a long time yellow, and are ripe in the month of June; they are preserved in the following manner: put them into clarified sugar, just enough to cover them, and boil them pretty quick; the next day boil them again as before; the day after drain them and take away their skins, which you will find all flow off; then put them into sugar, boiled till it blows a little, and give them a boil; the day following boil some more sugar till it blows a little, and give them another boil; the next day boil some more sugar to blow very strong, put it to the plumbs in the syrup, boil them a little, then scum them; the day following drain them and lay them out to dry, observing to dust them before you put them into the stove.

Take the green amber plumbs when full grown, prick


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 CHAPTER IV. 44

CHAPTER V. 60

CHAPTER VI. 70

CHAPTER VII. 86

CHAPTER VIII. The famous Hawke's Bay pastures—Hastings—Maori farmers—Mountain torrents—A backwoods

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 prick them in two or three places, and put them into cold water; set them over the fire to scald, in which you must be very careful not to let the water be too hot, lest you hurt them; when they are very tender, put them into a very thin sugar, that is to say, one part sugar and two parts water; give them a little warm in this sugar, cover them, and the next day give them another warm; the third day drain them, and boil the syrup, adding a little more sugar; then put the syrup to the plumbs, and give them a boil, and the day after boil the syrup till very smooth; then put it to the plumbs, cover them, and put them into the stove; the day following boil some more sugar to blow very strong, put it to the fruit give all a boil, and put them into the stove for two days; then drain them, and lay them out to dry, first dusting them very well; manage them in the drying as other fruit.

Take pippins, apricots, pear plumbs, or peaches, while they are green, and put them in a preserving-pan, or stew-pan; cover them with vine leaves, and then with fine clear spring water; put on the cover of the pan, set them over a clear fire, when they begin to simmer take them off, and carefully with your slice take them out, peel and preserve them as you do other fruit.

Take the green orange plumbs, full grown, before they turn; prick them with a fine bodkin, as thick all over as you possibly can; put them into


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 methods—The forest and hill country—Woodville—The famous Manawatu gorge—A curious ferry—Palmerston98

CHAPTER IX. 112

CHAPTER X. 128

CHAPTER XI. 141

CHAPTER XII. 149

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 into cold water, as your prick them, and when all are done, set them over a very slow fire, and scald them with the utmost care you can, nothing being so subject to break, and if the skin flies they are worth nothing; when they are tender, take them off the fire, and set them by in the same water for two or three days; when they become sour, and begin to fret on the top of the water, be careful to drain them very well, and put them in single rows in your preserving-pan; put to them as much thin sugar as will cover them, that is, one part sugar and two parts water; set them over the fire, and by degrees warm them, till you perceive the sourness to be gone, and the plumbs are sunk to the bottom; then set them by, and the day after throw away that syrup, and put to them a fresh sugar, of one part sugar and one part water; in this sugar give them several heats, but not to boil, lest you hurt them; cover them and set them in a warm stove, that they may suck in what sugar they can; the next day drain the sugar, and boil it till it becomes smooth, adding some more fresh sugar; pour this sugar on them, return them into the stove, and the day after boil the sugar to become very smooth; pour it upon the plumbs, and give all a gentle boil; scum it and put them into the stove; the day following drain them out of the syrup, and boil some fresh sugar, as much as you judge will cover them very smooth; put it to your plumbs, and give all a very good covered boiling; then take off the scum, cover them, and let them stand in the stove two days; then drain and lay them out to dry, dusting them very well.

To


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 To preserve the green Mogul Plumb.

Take this plumb when just upon turning ripe, prick, with a penknife, to the very stone on that side where the cleft is, and put them into cold water as you do them; then set them over a very slow fire to scald, and when they are become very tender, take them carefully out of the water and put them into a thin sugar, that is, half sugar and half water; warm them gently, cover them, and set them by; the next day, give them another warm and set them by; the day following drain the syrup and boil it smooth, adding to it a little fresh sugar, and give them a gentle boil; the day after boil the sugar very smooth, pour it upon them, and set them in the stove for two days; drain them, and boil a fresh sugar to be very smooth or just to blow a little, and put it to your plumbs; give them a good covered boiling, scum them, and put them into a stove for two days; drain them, and lay them out to dry, dusting them well.

Take these plumbs when full grown, and just upon the turn; prick them with a penknife in two or three places, and scald them by degrees till the water becomes very hot, for they will even


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 CHAPTER XIII. 166

CHAPTER XIV. 179

CHAPTER XV. 195

CHAPTER XVI. 212

CHAPTER XVII. The Bluff—Bleak and inhospitable view—Miserable railway arrangements—First impressions—Cheerless

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Rh even bear boiling; continue them in the water till they become green, then drain them and put them into clarified sugar; boil them very well, and let them settle a little; then give them another boil, if you perceive they shrink and take not the sugar in very well; prick them with a fork all over, as they lie in the pan, and give them another boil; scum them, and set them by; the next day boil some other sugar, till it blows, and put it to the; give them another boil, set them in the stove for one night, and the next day drain them and lay them out; first dusting them.

To preserve yellow Amber Plumbs.

Take these plumbs when full ripe, put them into your preserving-pan, and put to them as much sugar as will cover them; give them a very good boil let them settle a little, and boil them again three or four times; scum them, and the next day drain them from the syrup; return them into the pan, boil as much fresh sugar to blow as will cover them, and give them a thorough boiling; scum them, set them in the stove for twenty-four hours, and drain them; then lay them out to dry, after having dusted them very well.

 * Note.—In the scalding of green plumbs, you must always have a sieve in the bottom of your pan to put your plumbs in, that they may not touch the bottom; for those that do, will burst before the others are scarcely warm.

To preserve green Figs.

Take the small green figs, slit them on the top, put them in water for ten days, and proceed thus:


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 ride to Invercargill—Forestry neglected—Shameful waste—The Timber industry—Necessity for reform—Pioneering—The usual Australian mode—The native method—A contrast—Invercargill—A large farm—Conservatism of the farming classes—Remenyi's anecdotes229

CHAPTER XVIII. 246

CHAPTER XIX. 260

CHAPTER XX. 273

CHAPTER XXI. Summary—Importance of the colonies sometimes overlooked at home—Their commercial importance—Fields for capital—Mineral wealth—Farm products—New Industries—Field for farmers—Liberal land regulations—Openings for artisans—For

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 institutions—A land of promise for willing workers—Inducements for seekers after health and lovers of the picturesque—The clouds clearing—Returning prosperity—The peace and unity of the Empire294

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 seen with the eyes of unworn, undoubting youth! On three sides lay the plains, a dimly verdurous expanse, over which a night mist was lifting itself along the line of the river. The outline of the Anakie-You Yangs range was sharply drawn against the dawn-lighted horizon, while far to the north-east was seen the forest-clothed summit of Mount Macedon, and westward gleamed the sea. The calm water of Corio Bay and the abrupt cone of Station Peak, nearly in the line of our route, formed an unmistakable yet picturesque landmark.

The cattle, peacefully grazing, were spread over the plain, having been released from camp. The horses were being brought in; among them I was quick to distinguish my valuable pair. Old Watts, the campkeeper, a hoary retainer of Yering—who gave his name to the affluent of the Yarra so called — was cooking steaks for breakfast. Everything was delightfully new, strangely exhilarating, with a fresh flavour of freedom and adventure.

After breakfast we saddled up, and, mounting our horses, strolled on after a leisurely fashion with the cattle. I was riding, as became an Australian, a four-year-old colt, my own property, and bred in the family. A grandson of Skeleton and of Satellite, he was moderately fast and a great stayer. Mr. Donald Ryrie rode a favourite galloway yclept Dumple—a choice roadster and clever stock-horse, much resembling in outline Dandle Dinmont's historic "powney." He and I were sufficiently near in age to enjoy discursive conversation during the long, slightly tedious driving hours, to an extent which occasionally impaired our usefulness. When in

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 thus: put as much salt into the water as will make it bear an egg; then let it settle, take the scum off, and put the clear brine to the figs; keep them in water for ten days, then put them into fresh water, boil them till a pin will easily pass into them; drain and put them into the other fresh water, shifting them everyday for four days; again drain them, put them into clarified sugar, give them a little warm, and let them stand till the next day; warm them again, and when they are become green, give them a good boil; then boil some other sugar to blow, put it to them, and give them another boil; the next day drain and dry them.

Take the white figs when ripe, slit them in the tops, put them into clarified sugar, and give them a good boil; scum them and set them by; the next day boil some more sugar till it blows, pour it upon them, and boil them again very well; scum and set them in the stove, the day after drain and lay them out to dry, first dusting them very well.

Choose raspberries that are not too ripe, and take the weight of them in sugar; wet your sugar with a little water, put in your raspberries, and let them boil softly; be careful not to break them; when they are clear, take them up, and boil the syrup till it be thick enough, then put them in again, and when they are boiled put them up in glasses.

If you intend to preserve the red sort of berries,


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 argument or narrative we permitted "the tail" to straggle unreasonably we were sharply recalled to our duty. Our kind-hearted choleric leader then adopted language akin to that in which the ruffled M.F.H. exhorts the erring horsemen of his field.

Ah me, what pleasant days were those! A little warm, even hot, doubtless. But we could take off our coats without fear of Mrs. Grundy. There was plenty of grass. "Travelling" was an honourable and recognised occupation in those Arcadian times. "Purchased land" was an unknown quantity. Droughts were disbelieved in, and popularly supposed to belong exclusively to the "Sydney side." The horses were fresh, the stages were moderate, and when a halt was called at sundown the cattle soon lay contentedly down in the soft, thick grass. The camp fires were lighted, and another pleasant, hopeful day was succeeded by a restful yet romantic night.

So we fared on past the Little River and Fyans' Ford, where a certain red cow of mine was nearly drowned, and had to be left behind; then to Beale's, on the Barwon; thence to Colac, for we had decided to take the inner road and not to go by "the Frenchman's," or "Cressy," then represented solely by Monsieur (and Madame) Duverney's Inn, as it was then called.

Apropos of Fyans' Ford, there was an inn as we passed up. When returning I met with an adventure nearly similar to that in "She Stoops to Conquer." I left the station for Melbourne in the December following, having earned a Christmas at home. When I arrived at Geelong I turned out early next morning, and rode to Fyans' Ford to see if I could

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 gather them on a dry day, when they are just turning red, with the stalks on, about an inch long; lay them singly on a dish, beat and sift their weight of double refined sugar, and strew it over them; to every quart of raspberries, take a quart of red currant jelly juice, and to it its weight of double refined sugar; boil and thin it well, then put in your raspberries, and give them a scald; take them off, and let them stand for two hours; then set them on again, and make them a little hotter; proceed in this manner two or three times till they look clear; but take care to prevent their boiling, as that will occasion the stalks to come off; when they are tolerably cool, put them into jelly glasses with the stalks downwards. White raspberries may be preserved in the same manner only using white currant jelly instead of red.

Take the largest and best grapes before they are thorough ripe; stone and scald them, and let them lie two days in the water they are scaled in; then drained them, and put them into a thin syrup, and give them a heat over a slow fire; the next day turn the grapes in the pan, and heat them again the day after; then drain them, put them into clarified sugar, give them a good boil, scum them, and set them by; the following day, boil more sugar to blow, put it to the grapes, give all a good boil, scum them, and set them in a warm stove all night; the day after drain the grapes, and lay them out to dry, first dusting them very well.

To


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Author:James Inglis

Works

 * Sport and Work on the Nepaul Frontier, 1880
 * Our Australian Cousins, 1882
 * Our New Zealand Cousins, 1887
 * Tent Life in Tiger Land, 1888

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Take the great Gascoyne grapes when they are green, before they are too ripe, and prick every one of them; to every pound of grapes add a pound and a quarter of sugar; make a syrup with the verjuice of the grapes stained; when your sugar is made clear and perfect, put in your grapes strained into juice; put them in a deep bason, cover them close, and set them on a pot of scalding water to boil; when your grapes are tender, take them up, boil the syrup a little more, and betwixt hot and cold, put them in broad glasses or gally-pots (which is better than glasses, as you must lay one cluster above another); then put a paper over them and tie them up.

Take some close bunches of red or white grapes, before they are too ripe, and put them into a pan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar-candy, and fill the jar with brandy; tie it close, and set them in a dry place.

Set some mulberries over the fire in a skillet, or preserving pan; draw from them a pint of juice when it is strained; then take three pounds of sugar, beaten very fine, wet the sugar with the pint of juice; boil up the sugar and skim it, put in two pounds of ripe mulberries, and let them stand in the syrup till they are thoroughly warm; then set them on the fire, and let them boil very gently; do them but half enough, and put


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 find "tale or tidings" of the red cow left behind, as before mentioned. How honest were nearly all men in those days! I did hear of her, and, having discovered her whereabouts, I went to the old house to breakfast, preparatory to riding to Heidelberg, fifty-seven miles all told, that night.

Dismounting at the stable door, I gave my mare to the groom, with a brisk injunction as to a good feed, and passed into the house. In the parlour was a maid-servant laying the breakfast. I stood before the fireplace in an easy attitude, and demanded when breakfast would be ready.

"In about half an hour, sir." I noticed a slightly surprised air.

"Can't you get it a little sooner, Mary?" I said, guessing at her name with the affability of a tavern guest of fashion and substance.

"I don't know, sir," she made answer meekly.

"Come, Mary," I said, "surely you could manage something in less time? I have a long way to ride to-day."

She smiled, and was about to reply, when a door opened, and a middle-aged personage, with full military whiskers, and an air of authority, looked in.

"I don't think I have the pleasure of knowing you, sir," he stated, with a certain dignity.

"No," I said; "no! I think not. Not been here since last year." (I did not particularly see the necessity either.) I was cool and cheerful, and it struck me that, for an innkeeper, he was over-punctilious.

"This is no inn, sir," he said, with increased sternness.

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 In a moment my position flashed upon me. I then remembered I had not noticed the sign as I rode up. The house and grounds, large and extensive, had been occupied by a private family. Nothing very uncommon about that. So here had I been ordering my horse to be fed, and lecturing the parlour-maid, all the while in a strange gentleman's abode.

I could not help laughing, but immediately proceeded to apologise fully and formally, at the same time pointing out that the place had been an inn when I last saw it. Hence my mistake, which I sincerely regretted. I bowed, and made for the door.

My host's visage relaxed. "Come," he said, "I see how it all happened. But you must not lose your breakfast for all that. Mrs. —— will be ready directly, and my daughter. I trust you will give us the pleasure of your company."

"All's well that ends well." I was introduced to the ladies of the house, who made themselves agreeable. There was a good laugh over my invasion of the parlour and Mary's astonishment. I breakfasted with appetite. We parted cordially. And, as my mare carried me to Heidelberg that night without a sign of distress, she probably had breakfasted well also.

I recollect—how well!—the night I reached Lake Colac. Mr. Hugh Murray had, I think, the only station upon it, and the Messrs. Dennis were a short distance on the hither side. The Messrs. Robertson farther on. The cattle had rather a long day without water. Not quite so bad as the Old

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 CHAPTER I.

reads much now-a-days of the progress of colonization. One hears much of the rapid rise of communities, of the quick changes of modern life, and the sudden surprises of contemporary history. It is rare, however, that one is privileged to see for oneself the startling contrasts and pregnant transformations, which have been effected during twenty years of bristling activity and onward progress, in a young country like New Zealand. To endeavour to describe something of these is my aim in these notes of travel.

It is now more than twenty years since I first landed on the shingly beach at Port Lyttelton, in the Canterbury province, and with light pockets and hopeful heart trudged over the high

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 Man Plain, but a good stretch. We did not "make" the lake until after dark. How they all rushed in! It was shallow, and sound as to bottom. We concluded to let them alone, not believing that they would wander far through such good feed before day. So we had our supper cheerfully, and turned in. We could hear them splashing about in the water, drinking exhaustively, and finally returning in division. At daylight, the first man up (not the writer) descried them comfortably camped, nearly all down within a few hundred yards.

How far is the Parin Yallock? It is many a year since I saw the Stony Rises, as we somewhat unscientifically called the volcanic trap dykes and lava outflows, now riven into boulders and scoria masses, yet clothed with richest grass and herbage, which surround for many miles the craters of Noorat, "The Sisters"—Leura and Porndon. Well, we took it very easily along that pastoral Eden, the garden of Australia, where dwelt pastoral man before the Fall, ere he was driven forth into far sun-scorched drought-accursed wilds to earn his bread by the sweat of his brain, and to bear the heart-sickness that comes of hope long deferred—the deadly despair that is born of long years of waiting for slow remorseless ruin. Ha! how have we skipped over half-a-century, more or less! Bless you, nobody was ruined in those golden days, because there was no credit. Riverina was almost as much a terra incognita as Borneo—much more the Lower Macquarie and the Upper Bogan. But I must get back to Colac, and feel the thick kangaroo grass under my feet, quite as thick as an English meadow

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 put them by in the syrup till next day, then boil them gently again when the syrup is pretty thick, and will stand in round drops; when it is cold, they are enough; and may be put into a gallipot for use.

Let the mulberries not be too ripe, but rather a reddish green, and tart; having prepared a quantity of sugar equal to the mulberries, and brought it to its blown quality, throw in the mulberries, and give them a covered boiling; the sugar also may be melted with the juice of mulberries to clarify it; when they have boiled; take the pan from the fire, scum it, and set it in the stove till next day; then take them out, drain them from the syrup, and put them up in boxes for use.

Pare your walnuts til only the white appears, and be careful in doing them that they do not turn black, and as fast as you do them throw them into salt and water, and let them lie till your sugar is ready; take three pounds of good loaf sugar, put it into your preserving-pan, set it over a charcoal fire, and put as much water as will just wet the sugar, let it boil; then have ready ten or twelve whites of eggs strained and beat up to a froth; cover your sugar with a froth as it boils, and skim it; then boil it, and skim it till it is as clear as chrystal, then throw in your walnuts; just give them a boil till they are tender, then take them out, and lay them in a dish to cool; when cool, put them in your preserving-pan, and when


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 (I have been there since, too), as Donald and I led our horses. He had a rein which slipped out at the cheek, contrived on purpose for his horse, and the better sustentation of him, Dumple.

We leave Captain Fyans' station on our right. He was the Crown Lands Commissioner in those days, and had the sense to take up a small, but very choice, bit of the "waste lands of the Crown" on his own account. There abide the "FF" cattle to this day, if the Messrs. Robertson have not deposed them in favour of sheep, or the rabbits eaten them out of house and home.

We pass the police station, another rich pasture reserved for the mounted police troopers and their chargers. There old Hatsell Garrard dwelt for a season, with his fresh-coloured English yeoman face, his pleasant, racy talk, and unerring judgment in horse-flesh. Did not Cornborough, that grand old son of Tramp, emigrate to Victoria under his auspices? I need say no more.

Then we come to Scott and Richardson's, the Parin Yallock station proper. Both good fellows. The latter might aver with Ralph Leigh—

Those were the days when my beard was black,

and the good steed Damper was not much averse to "a stiff top rail," though carrying a rider considerably over six feet, and a welter weight to boot. Between the station and the crossing-place—difficult and dangerous it was, too, even for horsemen—we camped. It came on to rain. It was our only unpleasant night (except one when we missed the drays and had no supper. I didn't smoke then and

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 oh! how hungry I was). The cattle were uneasy, and "ringed" all night. Next morning the camp was like a circus on a large scale. The soil is rich and black. I have seen no mud to speak of for the last ten years. Even the mud in those parts was of a superior description.

Next day we faced the Parin Yallock Creek and its malign ford—save the mark! One dray was bogged; several head of cattle; my colt went down tail first, and nearly "turned turtle," but eventually the corps d'armée got safely over to the sound but rugged stony rises. Crossing them, we reached the broad rich flats around the lovely lake of Purrumbeet.

It was late when we got there, the cattle having been hustled and bustled to get out of the labyrinthine stony rises before dark; and the day turning out warm after the rain, they were inclined to drink heartily. To this intent they ran violently into the lake, I don't know how many fathoms deep, and shelving abruptly. All the leaders were out of their depth at once, and swam about with a surprised air. However, the beach was hard and smooth, so back they came, in good trim to set to at the luxuriant herbage which borders the lake shore. I wonder what the Messrs. Manifold would think now of a thousand head of cattle coming ravaging up close to the house, and walking into their clover and rye grass, without saying "by your leave," much less "reporting."

When the day broke how lovely the landscape seemed. The rugged lava country that we had left behind had given place to immense meadows and grassy slopes, thinly timbered with handsome

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 hill that then barred the city of Christchurch from its port. The great tunnel (monument to the foresight and energy of Mr. Moorhouse, who at that time was superintendent of the province) was then only in course of perforation. In the whole of the New Zealand group, only some nine miles of railways were in working order. It was my fate to travel pretty extensively through the islands then. I visited nearly all the towns of any note, and being young, impressionable, and not unobservant, those early scenes are indelibly fixed in my memory.

When I left India some years ago, after spending some twelve years there as an indigo-planter, an account of which has been given in a former work, my intention was to revisit New Zealand, and compare its present appearance with my recollections of its former state; but hitherto circumstances had prevented my carrying out that intention, until, in the month of March, 1885, I found the opportunity I had so fondly desired, and these notes of travel are the result of my recent wanderings in the scenes of my early experience, and I shall endeavour to make them as interesting and instructive as I can.

The incidents of steamship travel are pretty uniform now-a-days. I could, I daresay, draw a graphic contrast between the old Mermaid, clipper ship, for instance, in which I made my

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 trees. The Lake Purrumbeet was the great central feature—a noble sheet of water, with sloping green banks, and endless depth of the fresh pure element. On the western bank was built a comfortable cottage, where flowers and fruit trees by their unusual luxuriance bore testimony to the richness of the deep black alluvial.

We did a "lazyally" sort of day—the cattle knee-deep in grass, every one taking it extremely easy. Leura, another volcano out of work, surrounded by wonderful greenery, wherein the station cattle lay about, looking like prize-winners that had strayed from a show-yard, was passed about mid-day. Next morning saw us at Mr. Neil Black's Basin Bank station. Here we saw the heifers of the NB herd. They were "tailed" or herded, as was the fashion in those days, and a fine well-grown, well-bred lot they were. The overseer was either Donald or Angus "to be sure whateffer," one of a draft of stalwart Highlanders which Mr. Black used to import annually. Very desirable colonists they were, and as soon as they "got the English," a matter of some difficulty at the outset, they commenced to save money at a noticeable rate. A fair-sized section of the Western district is now populated by these Glenormiston clansmen and their descendants, and no man was better served than their worthy chief—Neil of that ilk.

From Basin Bank we drove towards the late Mr. William Hamilton's Yallock station, where we abode one night. Here, or at the next stage, the trail was not so plain. I have a reminiscence of our having camped one night at a spot not intended for

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 when the sugar is as warm as milk, pour it over them. When quite cold, paper them down.

Take walnuts of the smaller kind, put them in salt and water, and change the water every day for nine days; then put them in a sieve, and let them stand in the air till they begin to turn black; then put them into a jug, pour boiling water over them, and let them stand till the next day; put them into a sieve to drain, stick a clove in each end of your walnut, put them into a pan of boiling water, and let them boil five minutes; then take them up, make a thin syrup, and scald them in it three or four times a day, till your walnuts are black and bright; make a thick syrup with a few cloves, and a little ginger cut in slices; skim it well, pour in your walnuts, boil them five or six minutes, and put them into your jars: lay brandy paper over them, and tie them down close with a bladder. They will eat better the second year after their keeping than in the first as their bitterness goes off with time.

Take the smaller sort of walnuts when full grown, and not shelled; boil them in water till very tender, but not to break, so they will become black; drain them and stick a clove in every one; put them into your preserving-pan, and if you have any peach syrup, or that of the white walnuts, it will be as well or better than sugar; put as much syrup as will cover the walnuts, boil them very well, scum them, and set them


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 first voyage to the antipodes, and the smart, well-found, modern steamer Manapouri, one of the magnificent fleet of the Union S.S. Co. of N.Z., with her genial, lovable commander, Captain Logan; but it may be sufficient to say that, having left Sydney with her peerless harbour and sickening smells behind us, after a few days' steaming we sighted Cape Maria early on a Monday morning, and I once more gazed with strangely mingled feelings on "the land of the Maori and the moa," the new Great Britain of the Southern Seas.

Cape Maria is the northernmost point of the mainland of the colony, but it is not the first land sighted by the voyager from Sydney to Auckland. The triple islets named "The Three Kings" lie to the north of Cape Maria, and are the first spot of the Maori domain that catches the eye of the man on the look-out.

Eastward of the cape is a wide, shallow bay, known as Spirit Bay. The coast-line terminates here, in an abrupt solitary conical bluff called Spirit Point. The designation, however, relates not to that mundane medium of seduction which a Scotchman would call "speerits," but owes its name to a legendary belief of the waning Maori race. These dusky warriors hold that the spirits of the departed here congregate, and poise themselves on the dizzy verge, preparatory to taking a final farewell of the shores of their earthly dwelling-place. From this point they wing their flight to the Three Kings above-mentioned, which

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 such a halt, and losing our supper in consequence. No doubt we made up for it at breakfast.

Now we had come to the end of the genuine Colac country. What we were approaching was a good land, richly grassed, and, agriculturally speaking, perhaps superior to the other. But I shall always consider the sub-district that I have just described, including Messrs. Black's, Robertson's, Manifold's, and one or two other properties, having regard to soil, climate, pasture, and distance from a metropolis, as the very choicest area to be found in the whole Australian continent.

A few more days' easy travelling took us nearly to our journey's end. We reached the bank of the Merai, at Grasmere, the head station of the Messrs. Bolden, and there, not many miles from the site of the flourishing township of Warrnambool, we drafted our respective cattle, and went different ways—Mr. Ryrie's to his run, not far from Tower Hill, and mine to appropriate some unused country between the Merai and the sea.

Here I camped for about six months, and a right joyous time it was in that "kingdom by the sea." I remember riding down to the shore one bright day, just below where Warrnambool now stands. No trace of man or habitation was there, "nor roof nor latched door." As I rode over the sand hummock which bordered the beach, a draft of out-lying cattle, basking in the sun on the farther side, rose and galloped off. All else was silent and tenantless as before the days of Cook.

I took up my abode provisionally upon the bank of the Merai, which, near the mouth, was a broad

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 are thus the veritable Walhalla of the Maori race. A sacrilegious cynic aboard, remarked, that if a private still were only set to work on the Three Kings, the spirits of a good many more than merely defunct Maories might be expected to muster thick when the roll was called.

Behind Cape Maria stretches a weary, wild sand-drift. We could see the clouds of shifting sand whirling aloft like a mist. The country does not, indeed, look inviting here. It is reputed to be the most barren tract in all New Zealand. Indeed, as the reader will find if he follows me, a suspicion sometimes steals across the mind of the observant traveller that, on the whole, perhaps the fertility of the country has been overrated.

Farther inland a good breed of Herefords has been introduced; and at North Cape, a few miles to the eastward, many sheep can from the steamer be seen browsing on the scanty pastures.

The chief industry on this part of the island, is the digging for kauri gum by the natives, and by scattered parties of bushmen. The diggers probe in the likely places for the buried deposits of the amber-like gum with long slender spears. In Auckland great warehouses are filled with huge blocks of this unearthed treasure. It looks just like clouded amber, and a lively foreign trade is done with the steamer passengers in trinkets made from it.

The North Cape presents a rugged, scarred, weather-beaten front. It is capped by a thin layer of red earth, and in the precipitous gullies,

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 and imposing stream, and turned out my herd. My stockman and I spent our days in "going round" the cattle; shooting and kangaroo-hunting in odd times—recreation to which he, as an ex-poacher of considerable experience, took very kindly. The pied goose, here in large flocks, with duck, teal, pigeons, and an occasional wild turkey, were our chief sport and sustenance.

On the opposite side of the river was the first cultivated area in the Port Fairy district, then known as Campbell's farm. An old colonial whaling company had their headquarters at the Port, and Captain Campbell, a stalwart Highlander long known as Port Fairy Campbell, had utilised his spare crews in the early days, and tested the richness of that famous tract of fertile land now known as the Farnham Survey.

We were not without practical demonstration of the bounty of the soil. One evening I was astonished to see splendid mealy potatoes served up with the accustomed corned beef.

"Where did you get these, Mrs. Burge?" said I to the stockman's wife.

"From the lubras," rather consciously; "I gave them beef in exchange."

"A very fair one," but a light suddenly striking upon my mental vision,—" Where do the lubras get them from? They toil not, neither do they spin!"

"I don't know for certain, sir," she answered, looking down, "but they're digging the potato crop, I believe, at Campbell's farm." Here was foreshadowed the enormous Warrnambool export, that immense intercolonial potato trade, which has

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 latterly assumed such proportions, and which invades even this far north-western corner of New South Wales. What glorious times I had, gun in hand, or with our three famous kangaroo dogs, slaying the swift marsupial. In those days he was tolerated and rather admired, no one imagining that he would be, a couple of generations later, a scourge and an oppressor, eating the sparse herbage of the overstocked squatter, and being classed as a "noxious animal," with a price actually put on his head by utilitarian legislators.

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 THE DEATH OF VIOLET

kangaroo were plentiful, they were not so overwhelming in number as they have since become. Joe Burge and I had many a day's good sport together on foot. Like Mr. Sawyer and other sensible people, we often saved our horses by using our own legs. For the dogs, Chase was a rough-haired Scotch deerhound, not quite pure, yet had she great speed and courage. Nothing daunted her. I saw her once jump off a dray, where she was in hospital with a broken leg (it had been smashed by the kick of an emu), and hobble off after a sudden-appearing kangaroo. She was said to have killed a dingo at ten months old—no trifling feat.

Nero and Violet were brother and sister. They were smooth-haired greyhounds—the ordinary kangaroo dog of the colonist—very fast; and from a distant cross of "bull" had inherited an utter fearlessness of disposition, which was rather against them, as the sequel will show.

Violet was so fast that she could catch the brush kangaroo (the wallaby) within sight. We rarely had

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 a patchy undergrowth of stunted bushes maintains a precarious foothold. In one ravine, the smoke from a bush-fire rolls lazily up in murky columns, till the gale, catching it as it emerges from the shelter of the gully, whirls it abroad, amid the dashing spray and driving rain. Truly a wild, forbidding, tempestuous coast. And what awful tragedies have been enacted here in the grim past! The red earth looks ominous. It suggests bloodshed. I had pictured something greener and fresher-looking. This is not one whit less sombre than the ordinary Australian coast, with its eternal fringe of neutral-tinted eucalyptus scrub.

Rounding the Cape we get under the lee of the island. The steamer glides into a blessed calm, and wan figures begin to emerge from

That seclusion which a cabin grants; and soon we sight Stephenson Island, with its isolated masses of upstanding rock jutting out into the sea.

Behind this island lies the harbour of Whangaroa, once a noisy, lawless whaling-station. Only the other day an enormous whale, which had been harpooned in the Bay of Islands, far to the south, was secured by the natives in the harbour, and the sale of the carcase, or rather the products therefrom, realized 1000l. The port is now, however, quiet enough. The old whalers lie idly rotting in Auckland or Hobart harbours. The roving, rollicking Jackey Tars belong to Seamen's Unions now-a-days; own suburban allotments or

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 occasion to search if they started close to our feet, and the largest and fiercest "old man" forester did not seem to be too heavy weight for her. When he stood at bay she would fly in at the throat, instead of looking out for a side chance. In consequence she was awfully cut up many times when a more cunning dog would have escaped scatheless.

One afternoon Joe and I had taken a longer round than usual on foot, and were returning by the beach, when we heard Violet's bark a long way in front. We knew then that she had "stuck up" or brought to bay a large forester. If middle-sized she would have killed him; in that case running mute. So it was an "old man" large enough to stand and fight.

"We'd better get on, sir," said Joe; "the poor slut'll be cut to ribbons. She's a plucky little fool, and don't know how to save herself."

On we went, both running our best. We were in decent wind, but it was a couple of miles before we reached "hound and quarry." Some time had elapsed, and the fight had been many times renewed. When we got up the grassy spot was trampled all around, and in more than one place were deep red stains. Both animals were dreadfully exhausted. The great marsupial—the height of a tall man when he raised himself on his haunches—was covered with blood from the throat and breast, his haunches were deeply pierced by the dog's sharp fangs, but his terrible claws had inflicted some frightful gashes down Violet's chest and flanks. As she feebly circled round him, barking hoarsely, she staggered with weakness; but her

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 shares; study the law of contracts, and pass in political economy. To "turn in a dead eye" is as defunct an accomplishment as dancing a minuet, and "shiver my timbers" is a phrase of no meaning, in these days of iron ships and steel steamers. Some little timber trade is still done at Whangaroa, and there is a large native settlement, but the roystering days of the whaling industry are gone, never to return.

There are few lights on this part of the New Zealand coast, a lack which badly wants supplying. As I write, there is a gathering of over five hundred natives assembled at Whangarei, another northern port, for the purpose of indulging in one of their famous war-dances. Nothing could more forcibly mark the difference between these latter days and the former order of things, when feasts of human flesh were the accompaniment of these orgies, than the fact that now this gathering is extensively advertised. Steamers are specially put on to make the run, and take up large numbers of curious sightseers, who throng to see the war-dance, as they would to any ordinary exhibition. This may be less romantic from the novel-reader's point of view, but surely it is well that over the old ruthless savagery "Ichabod" should be written. 'Tis pity though, that the lust for fire-water and the vulgar thirst for beer, should all so easily have formed the modern substitute for that fierce craving for human blood, which was wont to rouse the Maori nature to verge of madness.

All the night, on through the darkness our

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 eye was bright and keen—there was not a shade of surrender about her.

Joe rushed in at once and struck the old man full between the eyes with a heavy stick. He fell prone, and lay like a log. Violet staggered to his throat, which she seized, but, having not another grain of strength, fell alongside of him, panting and sobbing until her whole frame shook convulsed. I never saw a dog suffer so much from over-exertion. There was water near, and we carried her to it and bathed her head and neck. She had three terrible gashes, the blood from which we could not manage to stanch. Joe was genuinely affected. The tears came into his eyes as he looked on the suffering creature. "Poor little slut!" he said; "I'm doubtful it's her last hunt. Pity we hadn't took the horses, we should ha' bin up sooner, and saved that old savage from 'mercy-creeing' of her. Anyhow, I'll carry her home and see what the missis can do for her."

He did so. I walking sadly behind, the dumb brute looking up at him with grateful eyes, and from time to time licking his hand. She was nursed by Mrs. Burge like a child. We tried all our simple remedies, sewed up the gaping wounds, and even went to the length of a tonic, suited to her condition. But it was of no use. The loss of blood and consequent exhaustion had been too great. Violet died that night, and for the next few days a gloom fell over our little household as at the death of a friend.

A curious spot, in some respects, was that which I had pitched on—full of interest and variety. The

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 good steamer glides swiftly along, and at break of day we are almost abreast of the approaches to Auckland, the commercial capital of the North, as Dunedin is of the South.

In the dim misty greyness of early morn we crept past the towering bulk of Rangitoto, the giant sentinel that guards Auckland harbour, and all hands hurried on deck to get the first glimpse of the far-famed panorama of beauty that lay stretched before us. This renowned harbour ranks in order and loveliness among the "most excellent of the earth." "See Naples and die," is an oft quoted saying. Rio has its worshippers. Peerless Sydney has her liege votaries, whose ardent homage naught can quench—and yet, in many respects, Auckland harbour has a beauty of its own, which in some measure exceeds that of any other spot of earth I have yet seen.

Its charm seems to me to lie in its wide diversity, the vastness of its extended embrace. Every charm of landscape blends together into one magnificent whole. Open sea, land-locked bay, deep firth, rocky islet, placid expanse of unruffled deep blue, cloud-capped mountain, wooded height, bosky dell, villa-crowned ridges, and terrace on terrace of massive buildings, all can be seen by a single roving glance from whatever coign of vantage the beholder may command. For league upon league the eye may run down the ever-varying configuration of a beautiful coast, the promontories reflected in the lapping waters of magnificent bays, till far out to seaward the Coromandel headlands lie

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 river ran in front of our hut-door, losing itself in wide marshes that marked its entrance to the sea. It was a capital natural paddock, as at a distance of five or six miles the River Hopkins ran parallel to it towards the sea. Neither river was fordable, except at certain points, easily protected. Across the upper portion was a fence, running from river to river, and some ten miles from the sea, put up by the Messrs. Bolden, when this was one of their extensive series of runs, and, indeed, known as the bullock paddock.

Warrnambool, as I before stated, was as yet unborn. There was not an allotment marked or sold, a hut built, a sod turned. No sound in those days broke upon the ear but the ceaseless surge-music; no sight met the eye but the endless forest, the sand-hills, and the long, bright plain of the Pacific Ocean, calm for the most part, but lashed to madness in winter by furious south-easterly gales. Its jetties and warehouses, mayor and municipal council, villas and cottages, fields and gardens, were still in the future. Nought to be seen but the sand-dunes and surges; little to be heard save the sea-bird's cry. But at the old whaling station of Port Fairy the town of Belfast—so named by the late Mr. James Atkinson—had arisen, and its white limestone walls afforded a pleasing contrast to the surrounding forest. It lay between the mouth of the River Moyne and the sea. An open roadstead, suspiciously garnished with wrecks, told a tale of the harbour which afforded a larger element of truth than invitation.

Chief among the pioneers were Messrs. John

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 shimmering in the sun, crowned with fleecy clouds; and almost hidden in the misty haze of distance.

Out towards the open sea, the watery void is broken up and relieved by lovely mountainous islands, round whose wooded summits the quick changing clouds chase each other in bewildering rapidity; and ever and anon white sails flash across the ken of vision, or trailing lines of black smoke from some swift steamer mar for a moment the clear brilliancy of the azure sky. The cloudless blue of the Australian sky has here given place to the exquisite variety of ever changing hue and form, which gives such animation to the New Zealand landscape, and forms one of the chiefest charms to the visitor from the bigger island.

Yes, Sydney harbour is lovely. But Auckland, with its wider sweep, its greater diversity and bolder features, has a beauty of its own which makes her a not unworthy rival.

In other respects the city presents features which might well be copied by the great metropolis which clusters so thickly on the shores of Port Jackson. For instance, there is here a well-endowed harbour trust, which has a near prospective income of close on half a million per annum, and an agitation has even now been commenced in favour of making the port free in the widest sense. Large reclamations have been and are being made; spacious wharfs run out into deep water. The reclaimed land is let on fifty years' leases. So valuable is it that the trustees get 10l. per foot

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 Griffiths and Co., who had, for many years, maintained extensive whaling stations on the coast between Port Fairy and Portland.

Captain Campbell, then and long after widely known as Port Fairy Campbell, was their principal superintendent of fleets and fisheries, farms and stores. He, in the pre-land-sale days, like John Mostyn, "bare rule over all that land"; and, moreover, if legends are true, "on those who misliked him he laid strong hand." His sway was for many a league of sea and shore unquestioned, and no "leading case" will carry down his memory to budding barristers. He never, however, relinquished his faith in prompt personal redress, and years afterwards, when harbour-master in Hobson's Bay, regretted to me that the etiquette of the civil service forbade him to convince a contumacious shipmaster by the simple whaling argument. Among his lieutenants, John and Charles Mills held the highest traditional rank. The brothers, natives of Tasmania, were splendid men physically, and as sailors no bolder or better hands ever trod plank or handled oar.

Years afterwards I made one of a crowd assembled on the Port Fairy beach to watch a vessel encountering at her anchors the fury of a south-easterly gale. A wild morning, I trow; the sky red-gloomy with storm-clouds; the fierce tempest beating down the crests of the leaping eager billows; the air full of a concentrated wrath which prevented all sounds save its own from being audible.

It was impossible that the barque could ride the gale out, and, in anticipation, the skipper

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 them by; the next day boil the syrup till it becomes smooth, put in the walnuts, and give them another boil; the day after drain them, and boil the syrup till it becomes smooth, adding more syrup, if occasion; give all a boil, scum them, and put them into the pot for use.

Gather your walnuts when they are not much larger than a good nutmeg, wipe them very clean, and lay them in strong salt and water twenty-four hours; then take them out, and wipe them very clean; have ready a stewpan of boiling water, throw them in, let them boil a minute, and take them out; lay them on a coarse cloth, and boil your sugar as directed for the white walnuts; then just give your walnuts a scald in the sugar, take them up, and lay them to cool. Put them in your preserving-pot, and pour on your syrup.

 * Note.—They answer much better boiled up with the coarsest Lisbon sugar.

Take a head of garlick, peel the cloves, throw them into spring water, give them just a boil, and preserve them as you do your apricots.

Take the almonds when they are well grown, and make a lye with wood, charcoal and water; boil the lye till it feels very smooth, strain it through a sieve, and let it settle till clear; then pour off the clear into another pan, and set it on the fire in order to blanch off the down that is on the almonds, which may be done thus:—When the


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 per annum for the first twenty-five years, and an enhancement upon that of fifty per cent, for the second twenty-five years. A handsome custom-house is now in course of erection. Public baths, well-ordered and cleanly kept, are extensively patronized close by. An enormous building is rapidly going up close to the chief wharf for a further extension of the meat-freezing industry. The sea-line is faced with spacious warehouses and handsome commercial buildings, and, chiefest convenience of all, the railway station is being built within the harbour precincts, and the locomotive and the steamer are within neighbourly hail of each other. Thus there is no waste of time, of power, or of money, in shipping and discharging operations.

The shipping facilities in Sydney are a disgrace to the age, and a reproach to the character of the New South Wales people. The sanitary state of the city is even worse than the state of her wharfs and shipping arrangements. A Harbour Improvement Association has lately been started by private citizens. All honour and good speed to it.

By contrast with the miserable makeshifts and primitive arrangements of Sydney, Auckland rises to the rank of a modern city, while Sydney, by the comparison, sinks to the level of a mediæval fishing village, only she does not even have a decent supply of fish, which Auckland has.

No good is got by burking unpleasant truths. He is a false prophet who only "prophesies smooth things." He is no true journalist or publicist

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 who cries "Peace, peace," when there is no peace.

What has been done in Auckland could be almost infinitely outdone by Sydney with her greater wealth and wider commerce. A trust established in Sydney for the same purposes as the one in Auckland, would in a few years be enormously wealthy, and the reputation of the port, and the public convenience would be a millionfold enhanced. The vested interests of a selfish few, into whose hands the beautiful foreshores of the harbour have been allowed to fall, and who will do nothing whatever to move in accordance with the spirit of the times, cannot for ever be allowed to bar the way of national progress.

Queen Street is the chief artery of Auckland. It runs up a natural valley somewhat after the manner of Pitt Street, Sydney, only the street is much wider, and now that a Building Act is in operation, very handsome structures are rising on every hand. Evidences of the old régime are yet apparent in very unsightly ramshackle verandahs here and there. I observe several necessary conveniences for pedestrians at modest intervals. Here again the Maori city scores a point against the metropolis of New South Wales.

During our visit a gum warehouse and bedding factory took fire. Such is the splendid nature of the water supply, and the efficiency of the fire brigades, that in less than thirty minutes from the first clanging of the great bells the fire was extinct. Bell towers are a prominent feature in

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 all New Zealand towns, and where wooden houses are the rule, fires, of course, are very frequent.

The magnificent jets of water paled into puny insignificance the dribbling gouts of our intermittent Sydney supply, and in Auckland the painful "clank, clank" of the pumps is never heard when the fire-fiend has to be battled with.

There are two capital, commodious theatres. We went to hear Remenyi, the famous Hungarian violinist. The Governor, and Mayor, and councillors were there. Ostrich feathers seemed the leading feature in the head-dresses of the ladies. Gigantic structures of the Queen Anne era were surmounted by a panoply of feathers that would have turned a fashionable undertaker green with envy. These kept nodding time to the magic sweetness evoked by the gifted violinist; and the effect was really ludicrous in the extreme.

One Herr Himmel sang a ballad. The deep German gutturals rang through the building with an unmistakable Teutonic twang. A corpulent civic dignitary sitting behind us, turned to his beplumed dowager, and asked very audibly,—

"What's that, Mariar? Is that Hitalian?"

"Lor no, dear; that's French," said Maria. Foreign critics say the English are wofully deficient in modern languages. Perhaps so!

Banks are numerous. The buildings fine. But the hotels are legion. And yet it is noticeable how many passers-by wear the blue ribbon. When I say hotels, I err. Public-houses or drink-shops there are in abundance, but the bonâ-fide first-class

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 family hotels, might be counted on the fingers of a one-armed soldier.

Oram's hotel is comfortable, clean, quiet, and the host is obliging, and looks personally after the welfare of his guests. It is a favourite house with passengers waiting for the San Francisco steamer, and tourists generally.

Let no visitor to Auckland omit a trip to North Shore, and a drive out to Lake Takapuna. The scenery will amply repay the trouble, although in the endeavour to reach the lake may be included a jolting vehicle, a larrikin driver, a pair of jibbing horses, necessitating a walk up every incline over rough scoriæ or through blinding dust. Truth compels me to add that this was the only occasion on which I saw a badly-horsed conveyance round about Auckland. As a rule, the visitor will mark with delight the grandly developed, robust, well-fed horses. The trams are served by splendid animals. The strain is not that of the fast but slender weeds which are so common about Sydney. The breed is a mixture of the Suffolk Punch, the Clydesdale, the Cleveland, with a good dash of the thoroughbred, and they appear to be generously fed. In the old war times the Commissariat got down the very finest stock procurable from Tasmania and New South Wales, paying 200l. and even 300l. for a good mare. They bred for work and usefulness in these olden times, not for short races and gambling handicaps, and the result is seen now in the magnificent chargers and sleek Samsons which one sees in every conveyance.

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 But to return to the North Shore. The beauties of land and sea are here displayed with a lavishness and variety that fairly exceed my powers of description. The houses (many of them exceedingly pretty villas) are all wooden. Bricks are scarce and dear; blue stone of a volcanic origin and more than granite hardness is much used in the larger public buildings in town. There are few gardens, and what there are, are scantily supplied with flowers.

Fruit is abundant all through the North Island. The apples are really fine, grapes are choice, pears exquisite; plums luxuriate; oranges do not thrive; yet tons of fruit are imported from Tasmania, to the exclusion of the home-grown crops. Growers here say it does not pay for carriage to put up the produce of their orchards. Apples in the city are 4d.. or 5d. per lb., and yet in the Waikato district pigs are fed with tons upon tons of the finest varieties. How is this? Is it not a complaint in Sydney also? Dear fruit in the midst of abundance? Here is a problem the solution of which might well attract the philanthropists of our little Pedlingtons. Nay, the question after all is a serious one, and worthy of the best solution the best minds of our community can bring to it. Freights along the coast for one thing are excessive in N.Z. Other means of communication and conveyance are scanty, precarious, and expensive.

Surely co-operation might work some reform. The profits that will alone content the "middle

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 man" are out of all proportion to the benefits he confers on the patient consumer. It is high time Australians awaked out of their apathy as regards their fruit trade.

So, too, with fish supplies. Schnapper here (I am speaking of Auckland) can be caught, down by the Thames estuaries and bays, in thousands; delicious flounders and flatfish abound, mullet teem, other kinds swarm. And yet it is either a famine or a feast. At times none can be had. Wellington, I am told, is the best supplied with fish of any city in Australasia, and the fishmonger's shop and the fisherman's calling are recognized as being of equal importance with the butcher's or baker's. Room surely for a new departure in our fish supply.

Butcher meat, too, as I am on gastronomic topics, demands a word. The beef and mutton in Auckland are delicious. Immeasurably superior to the supplies common to Sydney—and the sausages! My mouth waters yet as I recall their succulent juiciness and exquisite flavour. The ordinary Australian sausage is a B.M.—a bag of mystery—so long as there is plenty of thyme and sage; it matters not how old, how black, how dry, and how unsavoury the other ingredients may be.

The butchers' shops in Auckland are better than anything of the kind I had yet seen in the colonies, and it should be remembered, too, that the climate is more favourable to the trade than the sweltering heat of New South Wales.

The shops are lofty, well ventilated, and

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 clean. All interior arrangements of hooks, blocks, and gear have been evidently specially designed to suit the requirements of the meat trade. The chief and crowning excellence, however, which is well worthy of record for Sydney readers, was this. All the walls were inlaid with glazed encaustic tiles. The counters were cool marble slabs. The windows were furnished with porcelain plates, and the whole looked so temptingly clean and cool that I could not help wishing some of our Sydney "knights of the cleaver" would take a lesson, and be fired with a noble emulation to even outvie the Auckland butchers in obeying the dictates of common sense and the instincts of cleanliness.

But to get once more back to the North Shore. Lake Takapuna is a lovely circular sheet, evidently the crater of an extinct volcano. The black rugged masses of scoriæ all around leave no doubt as to its volcanic antecedents. There are a few tame swans on the lake. Lovely ferns, orchids, and the crimson flowering pohutaukaua, or Christmas bush of New Zealand, fringe the steep banks, and the scene is one of perfect loveliness. The Maoris tell the legend that as Tahapuna [sic] sank and filled with water, so Rangitoto, the steep mountain in the bay, arose. The energy and enterprise of the Aucklanders are here well exemplified in the use they make of the telephone. They have carried it across the harbour in submarine pipes, and a lady on North Shore can order her groceries and joints in town without going more than a few steps.

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