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 EDITOR'S EDITORIAL CHIT - CHAT. A ROMANTIC MARRIAGE.- It is an old saying that love knows no aristocracy. The stories of King Cophetua and the beggar girl, of the Lord of Burghley and his peasant wife, are not the only ones, either in romance, or in history. A late English periodical recalls a tale of "true love," similar in its character, which happened in our own time, and one of the characters in which is still living. It refers to the late Archduke John of Austria, the famous Lord Protector of Germany during the stormy days of 1848. Archduke John, born January 20, 1782, the sixth son of the Emperor Leopold II. of Austria, distinguished himself early in the anti-Napoleonic wars, during which he organized the insurrectionary movement of the Tyrol and the alpine countries of the Vorarlberg. Becoming thus acquainted with popular life and manners, he never lost his fondness for it ; but at the end of the war retired to a small country house near Gratz, there to enjoy the pleasures of rural life. He made frequent hunting excursions, and in one of these had occasion to require the services of the post-master of Aussee, a little village in the mountains. It was late on a cold January evening that he arrived at the post-master's humble dwelling, to ask for a carriage to take him a stage onward to his destination. The master, Herr Plochel, was not at home, and all the carriages and horses were in use; nevertheless, the smart daughter of the house volunteered to drive the humble traveler, whom, by his dress, she held to be a pilgrim, in a two-wheeled cart across the hills, that he might not come to harm in walking along the lonely road. So they set out, the son of the emperor and the daughter of the post-master; he silent and preoccupied, she merry as a bird, chatting and singing alpine songs all the waylong. Anna Plochel was not beautiful, but merely what people call interesting; the archduke thought she was the most interesting creature he had ever set eyes on. He shook hands warmly when set down from the humble cart; and the next day, to Anna Plochel's great astonishment, was again at Aussee. He stayed three days at the little village inn, had long chats with little Clara, and at the end ofthe time asked the post-master the hand of his daughter. Of course, the suitor was required to give his name and profession. "Johann, Archduke of Austria, late field-marshal ; now out of employment." Herr Plochel, a serious man, did not like the reply, and angrily bade the visitor to leave his house, and never show himself again. In vain did the stranger plead that what he had spoken was the truth, and nothing but the truth ; all his arguments had but the effect of making the post-master more and more angry. So nothing was left for Prince Johann but to go to Gratz to fetch some friends who would vouch for his " respectability." This he did, then got the post-master's consent, was duly proclaimed in church, and married to Anna Plochel on the eighteenth of February, 1827, exactly three weeks after he had made her acquaintance in the two-wheeled cart. Prince John did not in the least make a mystery of the union, but forthwith sent word to Vienna that he had been married, and would give himself the pleasure soon of introducing his wife at the Hofburg. The Kaiser laughed, the Empress got into a fury, The upshot came to be, that Johann's humble spouse was made a Baroness of Brandhof and Countess of Meran, with a large annual pension. When Archduke John was Lord Protector of Germany in 1848, his wife acted as mistress of the house, in the hall of the Old Emperors at Frankfort-onthe-Maine. Several sons were the offspring of the mar420

TABLE. riage, the eldest, now called Count of Meran, born March 11, 1839. The countess is still living, being at present in her fifty-sixth year. CARTES DE VISITE ; OR SMALL PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTRAITS.Hitherto we have only known our ancestors through the pencils of certain great artists, and the sitters themselves have all belonged to the highest class. Hence we are apt to attribute certain leading expressions of countenance to our progenitors which are rather owing to the mannerism of the painters than to the sitters. Thus all Copley's beauties possess a certain look in common ; if we believed his brush without any reserve, we should fancy that the Ame rican race of the latter part of the last century were the noblest-looking beings that ever trod the earth. No portrait of man or woman ever came from his easel with a mean look. The same may be said of those of Reynolds, Gainsborough, and Hoppner, in England, and the result is that all our knowledge of the faces of the last century is purely conventional. But it is far different with the carte de visite. Here we have the very lines that nature has engraven on our faces, and it can be said of them that no two are alike. It is a curious fact too that the cartes de visite have, for the present, entirely superseded all other sized photographic portraits. This is rather singular, inasmuch as we did not adopt it until it had been popular in Paris for three years. Possibly, however, the rage has its foundation in two causes. In the first place, a carte de visite portrait is really a more agreeable-looking likeness than larger ones ; it is taken with the middle of the lens, where it is truest, hence it is never out in drawing: and then, again, it rather hides than exaggerates any little roughness of the face, which is so apparent in large-sized portraits. Secondly, when a man can get four portraits for a dollar, his vanity is flattered by being able to distribute his surplus copies among his friends. It enables every one to possess a picture gallery of those he cares about. A DRESS OF EUGENIE'S.-At the balls at the Tuileries, this winter and spring, many dresses of plain and embroidered tarletane have been worn. At the last ball given at the Tuileries, the Empress wore a dress of exquisite taste. It was composed of white tarletane of a very fine, transparent texture, and had two skirts. The lowest one was trimmed with a large ruche of tarletane, surmounted by a wreath of flowers of various hues. Above it was another ruche set on in waves, and also surmounted by a wreath. The upper skirt, which nearly veiled, or covered, the lower one, was looped up on one side by a large rose. The trimming on the corsage consisted only of folds of tarletine, and it was not enlivened by any ornament. The Empress wore a diamond necklace with pendeloques. Her majesty's hair was dressed in flat bandeaux, and her coiffure consisted of a diadem of the Roman form, composed of diamonds and emeralds. READING THE NEWS.-In thousands of households, the scene, here represented, goes on every morning. It is not every home, indeed, that has a veteran grandsire to listen, or a hero of 1812, or 1776, though but few of these last, alas! remain. SPRING FLOWERS.-This is one of the most beautiful engravings we have ever published, and it is as appropriate as it is charming.

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 EDITORIAL CHIT- CHAT. TABLE-COVER, CUSHION, CHAIRS, IN COLORED SILK PATCHWORK.-As a piece of stock work, always to be kept ready for carrying on in small instalments, but never to be made into a labor, perhaps silk patchwork is the most interesting, and best rewards the time employed, by producing articles as elegant as they are useful for the adornment of home. Ladies entering on this work should collect as many fragments of silks, satins, and velvets, as they are able, and should have a little work-basket always at hand with paper shapes cut ready for covering pieces of silk also cut, with the necessary implements, so that at any spare minutes of time a few of the patches may be tacked and laid on in a safe place, so that, when a sufficient variety has been accumulated to allow of the necessary arrangement of contrast, they may be sewn together. Some ladies, in pursuing this work, make a rule of covering and sewing together a certain number each day, and it is surprising what progress is made by this means. The use of the velvet for the parts which are marked black very much enriches the effect ; but unless the whole of these can be completed with this material, it is better to be content with plain black silk, the contrast being disadvantageous. For a cushion, or even a table-cover, the velvet might, perhaps, be procured without too much expense ; but if it were contemplated to complete the whole of the drawing-room articles, then the introduction of the velvet might be worthy of some consideration. The pattern given in our illustration, in the front of the number, is extremely effective. The black, the medium, and the light, will be found distinctly marked in it. There is. however, one error which we frequently observe in this sort of work, and which we mention that it may be avoided. The light patches ought not to be put too light, of course, but they should be all of the same equality of shade, and so also of the medium tint. In arranging them there should be no question which should be called light, and which medium, as the effect requires each to be kept perfectly distinct and clear.

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from its upper edge, makes a very pretty dress, with a large circular cape, trimmed to match. This Garibaldi shirt is also made in black and white stripes of different widths, all of which have a very striking effect. NEW MUSIC.-We have just received Nos. 13, 14, and 15 of "Winner's Dime Violin Tunes," which contain the popular melodies of " Abraham's Daughter," " Johnny is gone for a Soldier," "Jac. Bowers," etc., with a fine collection of the latest and most fashionable Gallops, Schottisches, Negro Melodies, and Dances ; also The " Carneval de Venise," with nine brilliant variations for the violin, with piano forte accompaniments, by Sep. Winner. These variations are quite easy and very effective, being as showy and brilliant as the more difficult arrangements of Paganini and Ole Bull; the various tricks, introducing the Pizzicato and Harmonic notes, are fully explained, and the piano forte arrangement suitable for an ordinary performer. Price fifty cents. Copies sent by mail, postage paid. Address the publisher, Sep. Winner, No. 530 North Eighth St., Philada. THE BOOTS AND SHOES adopted in ball and evening costume are sometimes trimmed with a flower instead of a rosette of ribbon, the flower being of the same color as those employed to ornament the dress. Thus, the chaussure adopted with the white tarletane dress we have described consists of boots of white silk, ornamented with a rose. The chaussure ought to harmonizo in hue with the dress. With a colored dress the boots or shoes should be of silk or satin of the same tint. A dress of mauve-color silk has the skirt covered with another of mauve-color tulle, looped up with white roses ; and with this dress are worn boots of mauve-color silk, trimmed with white roses.

TO MAKE IVY CLING.- By a little management the Ivy may be made to cling perfectly: that is to say, by adopting the following method :-Whenever a branch grows without attaching itself to the wall, cut off the loose part close to a leaf beneath which the attachment is perfect. Continue this process till the wall is covered, and always afterward cut away all hanging branches, or by the force of the wind they will detach others besides themselves. When the ends of growing Ivy lose their hold, they are never still sufficiently long to be able to attach themselves ; but by cutting away to the point of contact, they are enabled to proceed to the new growth, and thus hold fast. CHEAPEST OF ALL.-The Wilmington (Del.) Journal says of our last number:-" This beautiful number contains forty-five articles of reading matter, many of which are indispensable to a family, and all of them interesting and useful to every lady. Sixty embellishments of a high order also grace this number. The fashion-plate is a gem of neatness and taste. Patterns in embroidery are given and explained with great minuteness, and all necessary instruction in plain and ornamental needle-work is given from time to time. Peterson's is the cheapest Magazine in the Union ; being only two dollars a year, and yet equal to the best in point of interest and execution." TEN-WEEK STOCKS AND MIGNONETTE.-There is not an annual that can eclipse these two in point of fragrance, and none make a more agreeable appearance in pots or in the open ground. Such being the case, they should on no account be overlooked, but, on the contrary, freely cultivated; and as this is a very favorable time for sowing the seed of either, you cannot do better than put in a pinch or two of each. They may be sown in pots of natural earth, in a hotbed, or in the open ground on a warm border, any time during the present month.

THE GARIBALDI SHIRT is gaining in favor, having been sufficiently well supported to carry it through the formidable opposition with which it was at first encountered. The Emperor of the French, on first seeing the Empress in one of these articles, expressed the most forcible disapproval; but this being in a clear white material, might, as we imagine, make the objections all the stronger. These Garibaldi shirts are now made in colored flannels and other wool manufactures, and they have the merit of being warm and comfortable, and inexpensive, leaving to the limbs all that freedom of motion which is essential to health. Stripes of white and some gay color are now the most fashionable, but scarlet, and Solferino, and violet, are also much worn. Almost every lady has in her wardrobe one or more silk dresses, of which the skirts have survived the bodies, and these are extremely suitable for wearing with these Garibaldi shirts, making a stylish morning toilet, and, at the same time, preventing the necessity of purchasing new dresses. Dark-colored silks are also made up in the same way, with the fronts, cuffs, and collars stitched in white by machinery, and in these the skirt and the body are some. times alike, and sometimes different. Thus, a black skirt may have a violet shirt, a brown one a black, or the reverse. For the young ladies of a family between the ages of eight and twelve, these loose bodies are extremely suitable: for instance, a black or a French blue merino skirt, bordered with five or six inches of scarlet, and worn with a Garibaldi body of the same scarlet, has a very good effect; or the black may have the same accompaniments in the blue, with equal propriety of taste. For a young lady under ALWAYS SUPERIOR.-Says the Nyack (R. I.) City and eight years of age, a brown Brussels cord, having a band of French blue silk turned up from the bottom, and a narrow Country:-"The reading matter of Peterson's Magazine is velvet of a little darker color laid on the silk half an inch always superior to that of any other magazine for ladies."

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REVIEW

OF NEW

REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS. The Earl's Heirs. Bythe author of" East Lynne." 1 vol., 8 vo. Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.-The author of this novel is an Englishwoman, who has made "the hit ofthe season," in London, by the publication of " East Lynne," a novel which has already run through three editions abroad, and sold by tens of thousands here. The present fiction is even better than " East Lynne," and has the advantage of being published first in the United States : the Messrs. Peterson owning the copy-right. The distinguishing merit of Mrs. Wood, for such we believe to be the author's name, is the skillful manner in which she constructs her plots. Novels have been multiplied so much, in these latter days, that novelty in the story has become almost impossible. Every reader can tell, after a chapter or two, how all is to turn out : whom Harry is to marry-which of the rivals Lucy is to select-when the angry father will relent. Only two writers, indeed, can lay any claim to originality in the management of their incidents. One of these is Wilkie Collins. "The Woman in White," the best of his works, is a master-piece of constructive ability. No one can fully estimate its merits, in this respect, who has not read it a second time. The first reading, in its breathless absorption, hurries even the critic on, till he loses his calmer judgment. It is only when the book is read again, and with the cool eye of rigid analysis, that its wonderful mechanism becomes apparent. Then we see how astonishing the clock-work is, what wheels within wheels, yet how harmoniously all move together. Mrs. Wood is the only other novelist who exhibits this constructive ability in anything like perfection. Her “ East Lynue” was remarkable for this characteristic ; but " The Earl's Heirs" is even more so. In " East Lynne" many things happen which are highly improbable, and on one of these the whole denouement turns. In "The Earl's Heirs" there is nothing of this. From first to last the incidents are not only natural, but evolve themselves also in natural sequence. Consequently the tale is one of intense power. Nor is this the only point in which "The Earl's Heirs" is superior to " East Lynne." There is one character in "The Earl's Heirs," we mean Mrs. Pepperfly, which would not have been unworthy of Dickens himself. The volume is printed in double column octavo, and sold for the low price of fifty cents. For that sum the publishers will even send a copy by mail, free of postage. Leisure Hours in Town. By the " Country Parson." 1 vol. 12 mo. Boston: Ticknor & Fields.-Another delightful volume of those chatty essays, which have made the name of the "Country Parson" a familiar word in thousands of households, not only in Great Britain, but in America also. Among the most charming of the papers in this collection , if any one can be more charming than another, is that entitled "The Sorrows of Childhood." In reading it we go back to our own boyish days. The man who wrote that paper, whatever else he may be, is a man with a young heart in his bosom yet ; and we venture to say, that, even if he survives to four-score and ten, he will have a young heart still. A portrait of the author, we are glad to see, accompanies the volume. The " Country Parson" does not look, however, precisely as we had pictured him to ourselves. His face is suggestive of ill-health, if not of sad experiences ; yet it is genial, nevertheless, and with a broad though low brow. The volume is very handsomely printed and bound. Price one dollar and a quarter. The Young Step-Mother; or, A Chronicle of Mistakes. By the author of " The Heir of Redclyffe." 2 vols., 12 mo. New York: D. Appleton & Co.-We think this the best novel Miss Yonge has written, if we except " The Heir of Redclyffe;" and many persons, perhaps, will regard it as superior even to that. The general characteristics of our author are well known to the reading community ; so we need not here enlarge on them : while popular with almost everybody, she

BOOKS.

has, and deservedly, her own circle of enthusiastic admirers. Her books always teach a lesson. Nobody can read one of them without being the better for it. Her principal characters, too, are always more or less refined : she knows, what few novelists do, how to draw a real lady or gentleman. The volumes are handsomely printed, and bound in paper covers Price one dollar for the two. To our taste it would have been better to have bound the book in cloth; for it is one that most persons, at least, would wish to preserve. HEALTH DEPARTMENT. INFANT TREATMENT.- The dress should be simple, and as free from pins as possible, and above all of needles, which have sometimes become imbedded in the flesh. A small shirt next the skin protects this delicate covering from the flannel, which should be of the white kind, and should never be allowed to continue when it is wet, as the odor of the ammoniacal gas which is evolved by the heat of the child's body is most offensive, and extremely deleterious to its lungs. The employment of a second flannel over the first, to prevent the upper clothes from becoming wet, is a very baneful error, as the surface of the skin is chilled by its retained moisture, and is the common cause of chafing and ulceration about the folds. The head of an infant should not be too closely covered : the blood is circulating there so freely, that too close a cap even is often liable to produce real disorder of the membranes of the brain; but it is scarcely possible to keep the lower part of the body and the arms too warm, which being at a distance from the heart, the center of circulation, will frequently become chilled to that degree as sometimes to produce a loss of vitality, and very often materially weaken the action of the limbs, and this especially in feeble children. A deficiency of blood thus circulating in the limbs, the head will be too abundantly supplied-the consequences of this excess will be immediately anticipated. During the changing of the dress, moderate friction should always be employed, especially on the belly: it is agreeable to the feelings ofthe infant, and promotes free and healthy circulation, and, above all, assists the process of digestion and prevents the accumulation of wind. EXERCISE.-Infants may, at the end of the second week, be taken into the external air, if they are healthy and the weather prove favorable ; and this exercise may be repeated daily on each second day. They should be kept in the horizontal position, on a flat wicker tray (furnished with a pillow and thin clothes), to prevent distortion of the spine and angular breasts. The child should be, during its exercise, free from all tight bandages or swathes. BATHING.- If we reflect on the importance of the skin, it will require little argument to establish the benefit of bathing. Nothing tends to preserve the healthy action of the skin so much as washing; hence its great importance during the infantile period when direct exercise is impossible. In appreciating the employment of cold bathing, it is essential that we should notice the state of the child after it has been plunged into cold water. If it appears lively, and if there is a diffused redness and warmth breaking forth over the body as it is rubbed dry, then undoubtedly the bath has been beneficial, and a repetition is indicated. But if, on the contrary, there is a chilliness and pallor over the skin-if there is an absence of lively action- if the countenance is anxious-the limbs rigid and benumbed, and should these symptoms, moreover, continue after the child is dry and dressed, then it will be highly dangerous to resort again to cold bathing. In those infantile constitutions, then, where the powers of life are evidently not adequate to the production of reaction, the tepid bath is the more salutary. Its temperature

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 PARLOR

TRICKS.

may be varied according to circumstances, ranging between the degrees of eighty and ninety-five, which approaches the usual heat of the body. Where warm bathing is employed, we would recommend, immediately after birth, a temperature of eighty-two or eighty-five degrees. This may be decreased one degree every three or four weeks, until it be so far reduced as to produce at first a slight sensation of chilliness in the child. It is a vulgar error to suppose that the tepid bath is productive of relaxation ; its effect is, usually, the most animating vigor, and the cleansing of the impure skin is undoubtedly more complete, as the warmth seems to exert some solvent power on the oily secretion with which some skins are imbued. One most valuable property of warm bathing is, that it may be employed during the existence of internal inflammation. Its benefit as a fomentation and its cleansing properties are simultaneous. The custom of bathing implies, as its consequence, the salutary employment of moderate friction, the effect of which is an immediate increase of circulation in the vessels of the skin, by which internal parts are relieved, and the skin itself rendered healthy. The expression of delight in the child is an indication of its very beneficial tendency.

DESSERTS.

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DESSERTS. Tartlets. Are always so called when made of a small size and uncovered with a crust ; nor should preserved fruit of any kind be put under crust. The paste is made stiff enough to support the contents, being cut thin, put into pattypans, and crimped at the edges. The fruit is then frequently ornamented with small strips of paste laid over it crosswise, which are made thus : Mix a quarter-pound of flour, one ounce of fresh butter, and a little cold water ; rub it well between the board and your hand till it begins to string ; cut it into small pieces, roll it out, and draw it into fine strings ; then lay them, in any way you please, across your tartlets, and bake immediately. The jam of rasp berries, currants, or any other fruits, as well as the marmalade of apricot, quince, and apple, may be made into tartlets, and, when baked in a quick oven, may be filled up with raw custard or whipped cream. Rice Pudding.-Wash two large spoonfuls of rice, and simmer it, with half a pint of milk, till thick; then put a lump of butter the size of an egg, and nearly half a pint of thick cream, and give it one boil. When cold, mix four yolks and two whites of eggs well beaten, sugar and nutmeg to taste, and add grated lemon and a little cinnamon. Bake three-quarters of an hour in a slowish oven, and, when the pudding is ready, strew over it a little powdered lump-sugar and cinnamon powder. Currants may be added to the pudding. Or :-Boil half a pint of rice in new milk until perfectly tender and not too dry ; then add six eggs beaten, a spoonful of ratafia, sugar, and some grated fresh lemon; mix well, and bake in a mould one hour and a half. Turn it on a hot dish, and stick it thick with almonds slit in six. Serve with a rich custard round. It is equally good cold. Lemon Custard.- Strain three wineglassfuls of lemonjuice through a sieve ; beat nine eggs, yolks and whites ; strain them also, and add them to the lemon-juice, with a quarter-pound of powdered loaf-sugar, a glass of white wine, and half a wineglass of water, with a little grated lemon-peel. Mix all together, and put the ingredients into a saucepan on the fire, stirring it until it becomes thick and of a proper consistence. Or:-Boil the rind of two lemons grated, and the juice of one, in a pint of water ; add the yolks of fourteen eggs beaten to a cream and sweetened; stir it one way till it thickens. When taken off the fire, add two spoonfuls of brandy. Excellent Light Puffs.-Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemon-peel, some nutmeg, half a spoonful of brandy, a little loaf-sugar, and one egg; then fry it, but not brown; beat it in a mortar, with five eggs, whites and yolks ; put a quantity of lard in a fryingpan, and, when quite hot, drop a dessertspoonful of batter at a time; turn as they brown. Serve them immediately with sweet sauce. Parmesan Puffs .-Take a quarter-pound of cheese, the same quantity of bread-crumbs, and two ounces of butter; pound these well in a mortar, beat up an egg, and mix it up into the paste, making the whole up into balls about the size of a golden pippin ; make a thin batter with flour, milk, and one egg ; dip the balls into this, and fry them a light brown.

PARLOR TRICKS. TO MAKE A MAGIC PICTURE.- Take two level pieces ofglass (plate glass is the best), about three inches long and four wide, exactly of the same size ; lay one on the other, and leave a space between them by pasting a piece of card, or two or three small pieces of thick paper, at each corner. Join these glasses together, at the edges, by a composition of lime slaked by exposure to the air, and the white of an egg. Cover all the edges of these glasses with parchment or bladder, except at one end, which is to be left open to admit the following composition : Dissolve, by a slow fire, six ounces of hog's lard, with half an ounce of white wax, to which you may add half an ounce of clear linseed oil. This must be poured in, in its liquid state, and before a fire, between the glasses, by the space left in the sides, and which you are then to close up. Wipe the glasses clean and hold them before the fire, to see that the composition will not run out at any part. Then fasten, with gum, a picture, or print, painted on very thin paper, with its face to one of the glasses, and, if you like, you may fix the whole in a frame. While this mixture between the glasses is cold, the picture will be quite concealed, but become transparent when held to the fire, and as the composition eools it will gradually disappear. TO PUT A PENNY-PIECE UNDER A CANDLESTICK, AND TO WITHDRAW IT WITHOUT LIFTING IT UP.-This appears a wonderful trick, and yet it is one of the most simple, and never fails to raise a hearty laugh. Place a penny-piece under a candlestick on the table; then bet any one of the party that you will take it from under it without lifting up the candlestick. Thinking it impossible, some will, no doubt, accept your wager ; this being done, knock three times sharply under the table, saying, "Presto, fly, begone !" Then tell your antagonist it is gone, and desire him to lift the candlestick to satisfy himself. This, of course, he will immediately do ; then, on the instant he raises the candlestick, RECEIPTS FOR MEATS. snatch up the penny-piece. You will then win the wager, as you did not take up the candlestick. Mutton Cutlets a la Polonaise.-Remove all the fat, put THE MAGIC SPOON.- Put four ounces of bismuth in a cru- the meat into a covered stewpan, with a carrot and a turnip cible, and, when in a state of complete fusion, throw in two sliced, two onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little pepper ounces and a half of tin ; these metals will combine and and salt, and enough broth to moisten the whole; let it form an alloy fusible in boiling water. Mould the alloy stew very gently until the meat is perfectly done, then into bars, and take them to a silversmith to be made into take it out, strain the gravy, put it over a brisk fire, and tea-spoons. Place one of them in a saucer at a tea-table, reduce it to a glaze ; then cover the cutlets with the glaze, and the person who uses it will be not a little astonished to and serve them up with tomato-sauce, or a vegetable puree Sof any kind. find it melt away as soon as he puts it into the hot tea.

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RECEIPTS

FOR SOUP AND FISH.

Cutlets a la Maintenon.-Cut and trim cutlets from a neck or loin of mutton ; chop very finely a quantity of parsley, a little thyme, and a shalot ; fry the chops a little with the herbs ; then allow them to cool ; add some fresh parsley chopped and a few crumbs of bread, and seasoning ; spread this over the cutlets with a knife, wrap them in buttered paper, and broil them over a slow fire. Serve a sauce piquant in a boat. Or :-Cut them handsomely from the loin or back end of the neck ; half fry them, and then cover them with herbs, crumbs of bread, and seasoning ; lay this on very thickly and put them into a stewpan with a little gravy: stew until tender, then wrap them in writing-paper, and finish them on the gridiron. To Dress Scarlet Beef.-Tako a brisket or thin flank of beef, and rub it well all over with equal quantities of common and bay salt, and an ounce of saltpetre ; let it remain for four or five days in an earthen pan, when it will become red; it should be turned once every day. Boil it gently for four hours, and serve it hot, with savoys or any kind of greens; or press it with a weight, and leave it to get cold. If served up hot, add a wineglassful of port wine, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonful of shalot vinegar, and some butter rolled in flour, to half a pint of gravy. Place the meat neatly in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Veal Cutlets and Rice.-Boil a cupful of rice in milk until quite soft, then pound it in a mortar with a little salt and some white pepper; pound also separately equal parts of cold veal or chicken ; mix them together with yolk of egg, form them into cutlets, brush over with yolk of egg, and fry them: send them up with a very piquant sauce, made of good stock, thickened, and flavored with lemonpickle, or Harvey's sauce. The cutlets may be sent to table covered with the small pickled mushrooms. Cutlets and Beans.- Having dressed French beans as usual, drain the water from them, and simmer them with pepper and salt in a good piece of butter. A few minutes before serving add the beaten yolk of an egg, and shakethe pan over the fire ; but they must not boil. In the mean time have ready three mutton-cutlets, neatly trimmed, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a few crumbs, and nicely fried; and serve them on the French or string beans. To Stew a Loin of Mutton.- Bone a loin of well-hung mutton; take off the skin, and remove the fat from the inside ; put it into a stewpan, with broth enough to cover it, and let it stew gently till it becomes of a good brown color; add a glass of port wine, a large spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and some vegetables cut in shapes. To Stew Tripe.-Simmer it in beef or veal gravy; thicken it with butter rolled in a very little flour, and add a spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Or boil it tender in milk, and serve with white sauce. Tripe and Tomato- Sauce.- Select some double tripe : boil it until tender ; let it cool ; cut it into small pieces ; dip them in egg and bread-crumbs ; fry them a light brown; serve with tomato-sauce. To Fry Tripe.-Dip it into batter of flour and eggs, and fry it of a good brown. Serve with onions fried.

RECEIPTS FOR SOUP AND FISH. Potato Soup.-Take some large, mealy potatoes ; peel and cut them into small slices, with an onion ; boil them in three pints of water till tender, and then pulp them through a colander ; add a small piece of butter, a little cayenne pepper and salt, and, just before the soup is served, two spoonfuls of good cream. The soup must not be allowed to boil after the cream has been put into it. This will be found a most excellent soup, and, being easily and quickly made, is useful upon an emergency, when such an addition is suddenly required to the dinner.

Soupe a la Flamande.-Take carrots, turnips, and onions of a large size, two of each; a small quantity of lettuce, lecks, chervil, and endive. Shred them in pieces, and put them in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter and a teacupful of gravy ; set them over a slow fire, and let them be frequently shaken in the pan until they become tender ; then add a quart of any sort of broth, and let it all stew gently for an hour, seasoning it with salt, a small quantity of mace, a little sugar, and a little cayenne. Mix thoroughly the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of cream, and add them to the soup the last thing before you serve it up. Keep stirring it after the eggs are in, until it almost boils, but not quite. Or:-Wash, peel, and slice twelve potatoes and six onions, cut six or eight heads of celery into small pieces ; put these into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter and about a pint of water; let them simmer one hour; fill up the pan with a good stock ; let it boil till the potatoes are dissolved ; rub it through a sieve ; add a pint of cream. Asparagus Soup.- Take two quarts of good beef or veal broth; put to it four onions, two or three turnips, and some sweet herbs, with the white parts of a hundred of young asparagus ; but, if old, or very large in the stem, half that quantity will do ; and let them simmer till sufficiently tender to be rubbed through a sieve, which is not an easy matter if they be not very young. Then strain and season it; have ready the boiled tops of the asparagus, and add them to the soup. Or:-Poach six eggs rather hard ; have ready one hundred of asparagus heads boiled tender : boil three quarts of clear gravy soup ; put into it, for a minute or two, a fowljust roasted ; then add a few tarragon leaves; season with a little salt; put the eggs and asparagus heads quite hot into the tureen, and pour the soup over them without breaking them. The fowl will be just as good as before for made dishes. Eel Soup.- Take three pounds of small eels, and skin them; bone one or two ; cut them in very small pieces ; fry them very lightly, in a stewpan, with a bit of butter and a sprig of parsley. Put to the remainder three quarts of water, a crust of bread, three blades of mace, some whole pepper, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; cover them close, and stew till the fish breaks from the bones ; then strain it off; pound it to a paste, and pass it through a sieve. Toast some bread, cut it into dice, and pour the soup on it boiling. Add the scollops of eel and serve. The soup will be as rich as if made of meat. A quarter of a pint of cream or milk, with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in it, is a great improvement. Croquettes of Fish.-Take dressed fish of any kind, separate it from the bones, mince it with a little seasoning, an egg beaten with a teaspoonful of flour, and one of milk; roll it into balls ; brush the outside with egg, and dredge it well with bread-crumbs, fry them of a nice color; the bones, heads, tails, with an onion, an anchovy, and a pint of water, stewed together, will make the gravy. Lobsters make delicate croquettes ; in which case the shell should be broken and boiled down for the gravy. Summer Soup.-Take two cucumbers, twelve or fourteen onions, three potatoes, one lettuce, one head of white cabbage; fry these together in butter, stew them three or four hours in three pints of stock ; add a little green mint, parsley, and a pint of green peas ; let it stew for two hours more; press it through a sieve, and thicken it with flour and butter. Salmon Cutlets.-Cut the slices one inch thick and season them with pepper and salt; butter a sheet of white paper, lay each slice on a separate piece, with its ends twisted ; broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with anchovy or caper-sauce. When higher seasoning is required, add a few chopped herbs and a little spice. Cook from five to ten minutes.

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 RECEIPTS. - FASHIONS MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. Table Lamps.-They all require to be taken to pieces and thoroughly cleaned every five or six weeks. This may be easily done at home. Soap and warm water will generally be sufficient ; but if not, use soda dissolved in the water, and take care it does not touch any of the lacquer on the outside. Rinse all the parts carefully with clean cold water, wipe them, and dry near the fire, before putting them together again. The glass chimney may be cleaned with a stick having a bit of sponge fastened at the end. Afterward polish with a bit of whiting and a soft cloth. To Prevent Muslins, Linen, and Cotton articles from Taking Fire suddenly.- Rinse them in alum water, made pretty strong with the alum. The article then, if applied to a lighted candle or a flame, will only smoulder like woolen substances-not break instantly into a flame, and so destroy the wearer. As much as possible, in winter, articles of dress liable to flame should be avoided, and woolen textures substituted. To Destroy Slugs.- Take a quantity of cabbage leaves, and either put them into a warm oven, or heat them before the fire till they get quite soft ; then rub them with unsalted butter, or any kind of fresh dripping, and lay them in places infested with slugs. In a few hours the leaves will be found covered with snails and slugs, which may then, of course, be destroyed in any way the gardener may think fit. To Remove Stains from the Hands.-Rub the hands well with pumice stone, or with the juice of a lemon. Or, take one ounce of prepared coral and four ounces of lemon -juice : dissolve the coral in the lemon-juice, and keep well corked. Apply it with a sponge two or three times a day. It is quite harmless, and may be relied on. A Good Eye-Wash.-Twenty-five drops of " Goulard's extract of lead" in eight ounces of water, and one teaspoonful of brandy. Bathe the eyes with soft linen, dipped in the collyrium. Or an ounce of brandy to five ounces of water. Bathe the eyes night and morning. To take Ink Spots out of Linen and Calico.- Cut a lemon in half, and press the stained part close over one half of the lemon, until it is wet with the juice. Then place on it a hot iron, and the spots will soon disappear.

FASHIONS FOR MAY. FIG. 1.-WALKING DRESS OF GRAYISH BLUE SILK.- The skirt is trimmed with seven bands of black velvet. The body is high and plain ; the sleeves are loose, but somewhat shaped to the arm, and trimmed with four bands of black velvet. Bonnet of white silk, trimmed inside and out with pansies. FIG. 1.-HOUSE DRESS OF NANKEEN-COLORED FOULARD.The skirt has a narrow bias band around the bottom edged with white. The pointed belt is braided and edged with white. Over the low body is worn a high white body of jaconet, plaited down the front. The collar and cuffs of this body are made of foulard, braided. Head-dress composed of blue velvet bows. FIG. II.-WALKING DRESS suitable for the country. This dress is composed of one of the black and white silk and wool materials which are now so popular and are found so useful. The body is made a la Parodi, that is, with a slight fullness at the waist, back and front, but plain on the shoulders. The deep cape, collar, sleeves, and front and bottom of the dress are trimmed with a plaiting of ribbon. FIG. IV. BONNET OF WHITE ENGLISH STRAW, from Mrs. Cripps, 312 Canal street, New York. The front is ornamented at the top with white lilies and leaves, interspersed with narrow white ribbon edged with black ; a trimming of

FOR

MAY.

425

white tulle descends down the left side, terminating at the cape, which is of white ribbon and blonde lace. The face trimmings are a full cap of blonde, with a large white rose and buds in the center, and quillings of purple ribbon on the right side. Broad white strings. FIG. V. SPRING BONNET, from Mrs. Cripps, 312 Canal street, New York. The material is royal purple silk of a delicate shade. The front is shirred, which meets a deep cap-shaped crown, finished with a rosette of black and white lace, from which two lappets of white lace mingle at the rosette, with delicate spray fall to the cape. The front is surmounted with a cluster of white flowers, interspersed with loops of purple and white ribbon. The face trimmings are composed of full loops of purple and white ribbon, gracefully intermingled with lace and white flowers. The bonnet is completed by broad white strings edged with black. GENERAL REMARKS.- Mostof the silks are in very small plaids or checks ; though some of the more expensive ones are of a solid ground, with leaves, small sprigs, etc., of the same color as the ground, but of a darker shade. But few India silks have been brought to the market for some years past ; but these, when they can be obtained, make the cheapest and most serviceablo silk dress which can be worn. These silks wash like a good chintz, and always look well. FOULARD is a material now employed for dresses at all seasons, and of late it has been made in new and beautiful patterns. Many foulards have a brown, black, or violet ground, figured with patterns like those on other kinds of silk. For instance, some are sprigged with flowers on a white ground, or they are figured with a lozenge pattern in green. We have seen one figured with black stripes on brown, and another with Pompadour bouquets. These foulards, we may also mention, are of a firm texture. For young ladles' demi-toilet nothing can be more suitable than a dress of foulard with a white ground; the corsage low, with a fichu and a ceinture of the same silk as the dress, fastened either in front or behind ; or the corsage may have a berthe crossed in front, and trimmed with bows of ribbon on the shoulders. ALPACAS of various colors are very much worn abroad; but few have been introduced here, except those in black, which are always so much worn for mourning. But there are various articles which have taken the place of alpacas, some heavy, some light, composed of silk and wool, or of all wool. The names and styles of these articles are legion, but any ofthem will make most serviceable dresses for the country, for traveling, for walking, etc.; in fact, no lady's wardrobe should be without one, particularly as they can be had very cheap, though some of the styles range as high as one dollar and thirty-seven cents a yard ; but of double width. These goods can be obtained in either checks, stripes (like that of our third figure), or plain. CHINTZES rival the silks this season in beauty of design. PIQUES, OR MARSEILLES, are, as usual, of a light ground, with small figures. These, as we have before informed our readers, are a much heavier material than chintz, very much like the old-fashioned vesting Marseilles, and require no lining in the bodies. They are particularly suitable for children. Some of the plain buff ones, braided with black, make the most stylish dress a small boy or girl can wear. Next month we will speak of bareges, tissues, lawns, etc., suitable for warm weather. There is but little that is new as yet in the make of dresses. Many bodies, particularly those in silk and more expensive materials, are made with a point, both at the back and in front. For quite young ladies, the round waist is much worn, with either a belt, sash, or one of those pointed ceintures known as the Medici ceinture. One of the most beautiful of these latter is made of black velvet,

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 FASHIONS FOR MAY. . www having a point both at the back and in front, and with two has its large cape drawn up behind with two rosettes, a long black velvet tabs, about a quarter of a yard in width, shape which will be fashionable in the summer as a seadepending down each side, widening toward the ends, side wrap, or for the cool evenings in the country. which are rounded. The waistband, as well as the tabs, are braided with very narrow white silk braid. FASHIONS FOR MOURNING. THE SKIRTS OF DRESSES are still gored so as to be quite wide at the bottom, but narrow at the waist. FOR DEEP MOURNING, bombazine is considered the most FOR WALKING DRESSES the skirts are made quite plain, suitable material, though delaine is very much worn, as or with only a little trimming up the sides or front ; but less expensive. For summer wear there are innumerable silks are usually ruffled, except they be of very good materials of the barege family ; but these must all be madə quality, when they are made plain. over black. Black alpaca is a most suitable article for BODIES OF DRESSES are usually made high, buttoning down mourning, except for the very deepest kind of black, when the front ; but, as the season advances, low bodies and capes, its glossiness is objectionable. But nothing can supply its or Raphael bodies (that is, bodies cut square in the neck), place as a traveling-dress, or a " knock-about" dress, where will be worn. there is likely to be much dust, as it throws it off so easily. Many of the newest walking dresses have sleeves shaped For a lighter kind of mourning, plain black silks can be to the elbow; they are slit up to a short distance at the worn with propriety ; but they should be of the kind styled lower part, and the ends are rounded. But sleeves are "dead black," that is, without any gloss. Then come the made in all styles, according to the fancy ofthe wearer. different kinds of purples, grays, lilacs, and mixtures of Among the new capes, etc., the French fichu is a pretty black and white. Or black may be trimmed with purple, variety of those useful articles which have lately been so white, or gray ; or these colors may have trimmings of prevalent. It is made of clear muslin laid in box plaits, § black, according to the relationship of the person, or the joined up over the shoulders, and coming down to a point length of time the mourning has been worn. For deep both before and behind. It is finished at the neck with mourning, such as for a parent, husband, or any other near two rows of narrow lace, having a narrow black velvet in relative, the trimmings should be of crape only, and but between: and braces of black velvet, wide at the shoulders, little of even that. It is totally inadmissible to have much but narrowing toward the waist, are laid on its outer edge. trimming in " deep black." The plainer the dress is, the At the back there is a bow of black velvet without ends, more suitable. Black collars and sleeves are indispensable and in the front one with ends. In making this fichu care in such mourning, as well as black crape bonnet and veil. must be taken that it shall fit the person for whom it is in- But when the relative is not so near, or when the deeper tended, and it is especially necessary that the velvet braces mourning has been laid aside, thin, plain white collars and sleeves are permitted, more trimming can be worn on the should fit the figure. THE MOST FAVORITE CAP of the season is formed of a round dress, the skirt may be ruffled or otherwise trimmed, and crown, set into a narrow band, which just encircles the purple or white flowers worn in the face of the bonnet. head. This band is trimmed in various ways, sometimes With this lighter kind of mourning, a silk coat or sacque with quillings of blonde, sometimes with bows of ribbon, may be worn, or even a black shawl with a colored border, and sometimes with the two intermingled, One of the provided the colors are not too gay. As the season advances, prettiest that we have seen in this style has its crown of white straw bonnets may be worn, trimmed with black, or white tulle, a full double quilling of the same set on all even with white or purple, with purple pansies or violets round, the band being pointed over the front, just in the in the face; but if the mourning is deeper, the bonnet should middle of the forehead ; two long lappets of the same, edged be of black straw, trimmed with crape or ribbon. with a quilling of narrow tulle set on the front of the cap, and thrown back over the crown to hang down over the CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. shoulders ; and on the point in front a large rose, with a FIG. 1.- DRESS OF A GRAY FIGURED WOOLEN MATERIAL FOR number of little sprays turned toward the back, the rose resting on the forehead, and the sprays turning backward A LITTLE GIRL.- It is trimmed with ruches of gray silk. FIG. II.- RAPHAEL BODIED FROCK OF BLUE POPLIN, FOR A over the lappets. Another extremely pretty and simple head-dress is made by covering a band with clusters of LITTTE BOY THREE OR FOUR YEARS OF AGE.- The dress is bows, not too regular, but rather varied in form, and fasten- trimmed with black velvet. ing it behind with a lace or tulle lappet. FIG. III.- DRESS OF PEARL-COLORED PIQUE, for a girl of THE SHORT SACQUE, as we stated in our last number, will twelve or fourteen years of age. GENERAL REMARKS.-A very pretty dress, of white cashbe the greatest novelty ofthe season ; but this needs no description, as there was a design in the April number ofthe mere, has just been made for a little girl. Round the lower article. Scarf mantillas, trimmed with narrow ruffles, will part of the skirt there are three bands of blue cashmere. be worn also this spring. A Zouave jacket, of white cashmere, piped with blue, and BONNETS are very much of the shape which have been trimmed round with a small ruche of white ribbon, is worn worn during the past season, but some of them have the with the dress, and a sash, piped with blue, completes the fronts very much exaggerated in size, and filled with trim- costume. We have seen a beautiful dress of poplin, checquered in ming. A lady of good taste always adapts her bonnet to her style of face ; and the very large bonnets are not worn gray and black, which was made for a little boy of about by the best dressed people. The flowers are not worn as four years of age. The corsage is covered by a loose jacket, much in the middle ofthe bonnet as heretofore, but a little and the jacket, as well as the skirt of the dress, is trimmed on one side. with rows of cherry-colored velvet and passementerie. ColONE OF THE MOST STRIKING NOVELTIES of the season is the lar and sleeves of lawn. Trousers ornamented with needlecloak of scarlet cloth, or flannel, now best known as the work insertion and narrow tucks, and edged with a narrow Gipsy Cloak. This is, in fact, the circular shape, not now fluting of nansouk. A hat ofgray felt, turned up with cut either on the cross or in the width of the cloth, but with black velvet, and trimmed with a white ostrich feather, is a join down the back, and the simple hood drawn up all worn with this dress. round. The other cloak of the season, sometimes called For out-door juvenile costume basquines, demi-tight, and the Galway, and sometimes the Colleen Bawn, is also now paletots, are still in favor. In general, paletots have the fashionable, made in scarlet cloth, or flannel. This cloak preference for little boys. 426

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 ANRATHON

Engraved & Printed by Illman Brothers.

THE

PINCH

OF

SNUFF.

Engraved expressly for Peterson's Magazine

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Engraved & Printed

Br.there

LES MODES PARISIENNES JUNF. 1862

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 PETERSON'S

Pattern for

MAGAZINE,

Slipper :

in

JUNE,

1862.

Applique.

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 FEEDING THE RABBITS.

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 1

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 NEW STYLE OF SILK SONTAG.

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 LATEST STYLE OF BONNETS.

LATEST STYLE OF SACQUE.

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 BOY'S HAT. MISSES HAT.

LATEST STYLE OF SACQUE MANTLE.

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 INSERTION.

THE EUGENIE

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312 ing indifference or ridicule. There were, however, some exceptions. In A.D. 620 he fell in with some pilgrims from Yathrib and, finding them well-disposed, entered into a series of negotiations which finally brought about a complete change not only in his own fortunes but in the history of the world.

Yathrib, known in subsequent times as Medina, was a scattered group of villages rather than a city, situated in a fertile plain about 200 miles to the north of Mecca. Unlike the Meccans, who subsisted by commerce, the people of Medina had, from time immemorial, devoted themselves to agriculture, in particular to the cultivation of the date-palm. Long before the birth of Mahomet, Jewish colonists established themselves at Medina and propagated their religion with such success that by the beginning of the sixth century most of the inhabitants professed Judaism and were regarded as Jews, though they must have been mainly of Arab descent. These Judaised Arabs were divided into several clans, each occupying its own territory. In civilisation, especially in mechanical arts such as metal-working, they were greatly superior to their heathen neighbours, and for a while they dominated the whole district. But in the course of the sixth century, owing to circumstances with which we are imperfectly acquainted, the power of the Jews declined. Much of their territory passed into the hands of two heathen tribes (the Aus and the Khazraj), who in the time of Mahomet formed the bulk of the population. Between these tribes there raged a long and bitter feud. About the year 616 the Aus, with the help of the Jews, inflicted a severe defeat upon the Khazraj; this battle is known in Arabian tradition as the Day of Bu'āth. But the Khazraj, though humbled, were by no means crushed, and during the next few years every one went about in fear of his life. To the more intelligent of the people of Medina the situation must have seemed intolerable; peace was urgently required, yet no authority capable of restoring peace appeared to exist.

Such was the state of affairs when certain influential citizens of Medina became acquainted with Mahomet. Some of them who through intercourse with Jews had already imbibed monotheistic ideas, were doubtless attracted by his religious teaching; others perhaps, who were indifferent to religion, felt that a stranger claiming to speak with divine authority might be able to effect what they themselves had attempted in vain. In any case, a period of about two years elapsed between their first interview with the Prophet and their final decision to offer him a home in their midst. Meanwhile he had sent to Medina one of his Meccan disciples, Mus'ab ibn 'Umair, to act as his representative and keep him informed of all that passed.


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 CHEMISE YOKE.

THE PRINCESS ALICE.

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 LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS.

BOY'S JACKET AND PANTALOONS.

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 LITTLE GIRL'S LOW GARIBALDI DRESS.

LITTLE GIRL'S HIGH GARIBALDI DRESS.

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 JURA

POLKA. BY

MISS JANE F. CAMPBELL.

BY PERMISSION OF SEP. WINNER, PROPRIETOR OF THE COPYRIGHT.

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Crennan J

extended the area of the Park prevented Newcrest from exploiting mining tenements which it held in that area but effected no acquisition of Newcrest's leasehold interests or any proprietary interests Newcrest held in the minerals. Nevertheless, it was held that an acquisition of property occurred because the interests of the Director in the Park and the Commonwealth in the minerals were held thereafter free of Newcrest's rights to conduct mining operations and to mine the minerals.

Employing the language made familiar in those well-known authorities, the plaintiffs described the effect on them of the Packaging Act as reducing their proprietary rights to a "husk", as taking the entire "substance" of those rights, as effectively "sterilising" them and stripping them of all their worth or value. Supported by the intervening tobacco interests, the plaintiffs further submitted that they were deprived of the "reality of proprietorship" in their property.

In response, the Commonwealth contended that a diminution in the use or value of property is not the object of s 51(xxxi), since s 51(xxxi) is not concerned with the "general commercial and economic position occupied by traders". The restriction of "just terms" in s 51(xxxi) was said to be a protection against an acquisition of property in the sense of an expropriation or requisition of property. Further, it was submitted that, even if the provisions of the Packaging Act might be characterised as a taking of the plaintiffs' pre-existing rights to use their property for advertising or promotional purposes, with a possible diminution in the value of the property, such a taking did not amount to an indirect acquisition of the plaintiffs' property.


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 418

VARIETIES IN EMBROIDERY.

are composed of three colors, blue, black, and seamed on the wrong side : then bind the red. Enough bands must be made, so as to blanket with a worsted braid. It will be seen there are twelve colors, which make the Affghan of the dimensions given. are indicated by the small diagrams opposite. Fawn, very dark. This pattern of a fox's head may be used also Fawn, dark. for gentlemen's slippers. As, in traveling, a strap is useful to carry Fawn, light. the Affghan by, we give also a pretty design for such a strap. The strap is done in full 2 Fawn, very light. crochet stitch, with a coarse silk : the model, with the colors to be employed, is here given. O Flesh color. Black. Light gray. Red. Very light gray. Yellow. Background, scarlet.

Green. Background, blue.

Blue.

Black.

The strap should be about thirteen inches long, and an inch and a half wide. The strap is lined with kid. Little buckles should be attached to Background, black. one end ; and a bit of kid, pierced with holes at above. After this, the head of the fox must regular intervals, to the other end. A handle be embroidered on the black squares. When of leather should be used to unite the two these bands are finished. they must be over- straps.

White.

VARIETIES

IN

EMBROIDERY.

CB EDGING.

INITIALS FOR MARKING.

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 TRAVELING

BLANKET ,

OR

AFFGHAN.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

THIS Affghan is 133 inches in length, and 120 inches in breadth. It is done in bands, in Tunisian crochet : the thickness of the wool is 10 strands. Place 46 chain stitches on the

needle, 23 stitches black, 23 scarlet ; when a square of 23 rows is obtained, the wool must be changed, so as to arrange the squares like those of the pattern here given. These squares

M

MEMA

MMMM

417

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 MARKER FOR BIBLE OR PRAYER- BOOK. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

+

MATERIALS. A yard of ribbon an inch wide ; Take one of the largest pieces and paste it on of any color ; a piece of fine perforated board. the ribbon, then one smaller until the four are Cut the board of the shape in the engraving : on. The other side of the same end must be four pieces of this size ; four pieces one row of trimmed in the same way ; also the other end holes smaller ; four pieces one row smaller ; and of the ribbon. Double the ribbon not exactly four pieces one row smaller. The last four will in the center ; cut four pieces of board the have no holes in them. Care must be taken to width of the ribbon and as wide as the cross, cut these very exactly, as much of the beauty graduate them in the same way and paste them of this Marker depends upon this. Have ready by the end made by the doubling of the ribbon. some mucilage or some gum arabic dissolved. This Book-marker is very beautiful.

VARIETIES

IN

EMBROIDERY.

o

oo

So

C 0 0 0R 00 INITIALS FOR MARKING.

EMBROIDERY FOR FLANNEL.

416

EDGING.

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 THE

PRINCESS

CAPOTE.

BY EMILY H. MAY. THIS entirely new and beautiful hood, of and from A to B. From C to the point C, and which a drawing is given in the front of the from the point to the end C, run a small casing number, is so simple that any lady can readily of ribbon on the under side, this is to be drawn make it. Below we give the diagram for this to fit the head. The point which falls over, as seen in the design, is to be finished with a purpose. Cut out of silk flannel or merino, a square tassel. Now cut off the face evenly with the cape, 31 inches by 31 inches : turn over one corner 12 inches in depth at the point from A to A. and trim all round with a quilling of black lace ; Cut it off diagonally from B to B. Then sew also braid the hood with narrow silk braid after the point A (of the three-cornered piece just the design. A bow at the back and strings will comcut off) to the A on the bias from which you cut the point. plete the hood. Rose- colored silk, braided with After this, join B B on the one side and black and trimmed with black lace, is very effecB B on the other, making a seam from B to Ative for this purpose.

A

3 IN SQUARE

B B 12

IN

B

C

DIAGRAM FOR THE PRINCESS CAPOTE.

415

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 KNITTING - BAG. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS.-2 oz. tinsel zephyr ; 1 yard of { 4th Row.- Same as 3rd, only observing to ribbon one inch in width ; 2 large size brass place the four stitches of each shell in the center curtain rings ; muslin or silk for lining ; small of each shell in the preceding row. bone crochet hook. Continue in this way until you have worked With the zephyr, make a ch 11 inches in 28 rows of shells, then work 1 row in dc, same length. On it work one row of treble crochet, as 2nd row, and 1 row in treble crochet as in making the to stitch on every fourth stitch of the 1st row, finishing off both ends of the work the chain, and working four chain stitches be- with 1 row of shells. Now draw up the work tween each stitch. (This makes the row of holes on the sides as far as the 28 rows, crocheting for the ribbon. ) 2nd Row. - Work in de stitch. them on the rings as seen in the design. Line 3rd Row.- Work in shells, making 4 de stitches the bag, run the ribbon in the place designated, for every shell. and it is complete.

NEW

414

STYLE

BONNETS

FOR

MAY.

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 www. BABY'S SOCK IN CROCHET. Observe to widen at the beginning of the outside row as before, and knit two together at the beginning of the row at the neck. Repeat this until you have 4 blocks made, then continue narrowing at the beginning of every inside row, until you have all the stitches narrowed off on this side. Do the other side in the same way. FOR THE BORDER. -Commence on the right side and pick up the stitches from the point all the way up the inside, around the neck

BABY'S

SOCK

413

and down the other side to the point (on one needle) ; widen at the beginning of every row until you have 12 or 14 rows knit ; bind off. Then commence at the point again and pick up all the stitches round the outside, bottom of the back, and the other side. Widen and knit the same number of rows as before. Crochet a border in single crochet stitch into every stitch all round the Sontag, observing to keep the work flat.

IN

CROCHET.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS.-1 oz. of white zephyr ; 1 oz. of pink zephyr. Make a chain of 36 stitches of the pink wool. Join, and crochet in single crochet stitch 3 rows, only taking up the half of the stitch. Tie on the white and crochet in single crochet,

PATTERNS

IN

taking up the whole stitch, work twenty- four rows. Crochet to the 24th stitch, then turn, work in the same way 12 stitches (for the top of the foot), until you have 14 rows made on the top of the foot ; then tie on the pink wool and crochet all round the entire sock, observing only to take up the outside half of the stitch, and work 16 rows all round for the sole of the foot. When you crochet it together at the bottom, draw the thread through 10 stitches at once at the toe and the same at the heel. After this commence at the top and make two rows of loops, making 3 ch and 1 sc stitch into every other stitch ; 2nd row, 3 ch and 1 sc into every loop. Finish with cord and tassels at the ankle.

EMBROIDERY.

INSERTION.

C

DEw

N

INITIALS FOR MARKING.

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 INFANT'S

SHIRT.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

WITH split zephyr, cast on 100 stitches, using fine ivory needles, or coarse steel ones, No. 11. Knit 2 rows plain. 3rd Row. -Knit 1, bring the thread forward and knit two together, continue to the end of the needle ; knit the last stitch plain.

4th, 5th, and 6th Rows. - Knit plain. Repeat these last 4 rows 4 times ; then seam 2 stitches and knit 2 plain, alternately, until you think you have it long enough. The general length of shirts is a quarter or three- eighths of a yard long. Bind off for one side. Repeat this for the other side. Sew the two sides together, leaving 2 inches unsewed at the top for the armholes. Do the same for the other side. Begin where you finished sewing and pick up the stitches (on the right side) on one side of the armhole ; cast on 12 more stitches, then pick up the other stitches on the other side of the armhole and knit 1 row plain ; then repeat the 4 rows of holes 4 times. Bind off, and knit the other sleeve in the same way. Join under the arm. Pick up the stitches all round the neck on 4 coarse steel needles. Make 3 rows of holes as before. Bind off and finish with cord and tassels, or ribbon. >

KNITTED

SONTAG.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS .-6 oz. crimson zephyr; fine bone knitting-needles. Cast on 31 stitches. Knit 1 row plain, 1 row widen and narrow, 1 row plain. BEGINNING OF THE BLOCKS.1st Row.-(Widen at the beginning of every row. ) Knit 4 plain and 4 seam, throughout the row. 2nd Row.-(Reverse.) Seam the 4 stitches that were knit plain, and knit the 4 seam stitches plain. Repeat the two rows until you have one block made. 4 rows form a block. 5th Row. -Seam through. 6th Row.-(Reverse. ) Seam the 4 plain stitches in the last block, and knit plain the 4 stitches that were widened to 180 stitches ; then take off 69 seamed. stitches on another needle. Bind off 12 stitches Repeat 4 rows. in the center ; then repeat the blocks on the one Repeat these two blocks until you have side of the work. 412

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 PATTERNS

the bustle and congratulations, he uttered the words, " Mine, entirely, until death us do part! "-the care and tenderness that I re ceived, during that Elysian journey- and the numerous kind letters and presents that poured in upon me, almost made me forget my want of beauty. This consciousness was renewed in rather an unexpected manner. At Herman's request, I went with him to pay a visit to an old, bed -ridden aunt, the carefully tended charge of one of my husband's sistersa personage who, like the baby in a family, ruled them all by her very helplessness. No event could take place without aunt Nancy's being informed of all the circumstances-no purchases made without her having the first sight-no visitor could arrive without an early presentation. Aunt Nancy liked pretty things and pretty people- upon the principle, I suppose, that we always fancy our opposites ; for the old lady might have sat for a portrait of the Witch of Endor-and, unfortunately, at my presentation, I was very weary, and had a bad cold in my head-two circumstances which never enhanced my charms. I shook a little as aunt Nancy's sharp eyes deliberately scanned me ; but old feelings, which I had hoped were dead and buried long ago, came trooping back in full force, as the old lady remarked in a disappointed tone, " Well, Herman, you didn't select your wife for her beauty, did you?" My eyes filled with tears, and I glanced timidly at my husband.

PATTERNS

411

FOR INSERTIONS.

FOR

"Yes, aunt Nancy," he replied, in his strong, cheerful voice, pressing me closer to him, " I did select her for her beauty, but it is of a kind that is warranted not to fade ; and besides, she does not look as well as usual, to day- so, you must not form a hasty judgment. To me, she is the prettiest and dearest wife in the world . " How strong and rich I felt then! And just so strong and rich I have felt in the years that have passed since then. Cousin Ruth, who makes us occasional visits, for the sake of saying pleasant things, assures me that "I look quite as well as ever I did, " in a tone which plainly implies that this is not saying much ; and now classes me among the girls who had " nothing in particular about them, " and yet have " done so well for themselves." I passed Ida Mason in the street, the other day, as I was leaning on Herman's arm. Ida Mason no longer, but for some years the wife of one of the white-kidded youths ; and such a changed, discontented face I hope never to behold again. "Twelve years, Ellen," said my husband, significantly, "and where are the bright colors ? Blooming in the face whereon I read, in my first glance at it, an unfading lustre-and whose physical merits, permit me to say, you have always underrated . " As I said before, it is a pleasant thing to be appreciated -which means, of course, to be thought far more highly of than you deserve ; and that pleasure I enjoy to its fullest extent.

INSERTIONS.

&

& VOL. XLI.- 26

&

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Page:Bury J B The Cambridge Medieval History Vol 2 1913.djvu/341

622] In the year 622, on the occasion of the annual pilgrimage, about seventy of the converts from Medina arranged to hold a meeting with Mahomet at midnight a few miles from Mecca. The Prophet went thither in the company of his uncle 'Abbās, who was still an unbeliever, but from the heathen public in general the matter was carefully concealed. Mahomet demanded of the Medinese a solemn promise that if he betook himself to their country they would protect him from attack as they would protect their own families. This they all swore to do. As soon as he had secured a place of refuge, the Prophet ordered his Meccan disciples to emigrate to Medina. Attempts were made by the chiefs of the Ḳuraish to prevent the departure of the Muslims, but nearly all succeeded in escaping and reached Medina a few weeks later in small parties. The Prophet himself, with Abū Bakr and Ali, remained behind for a short time, apparently awaiting news as to the manner in which the Emigrants had been received. It is related, on somewhat doubtful authority, that his departure was hastened by a plot to assassinate him in his bed. In any case he left Mecca secretly, accompanied by Abū Bakr, in the summer or early autumn of 622. For a few days they remained hidden in a cave near Mecca, and then proceeded, as rapidly as possible, to Medina. Thus was accomplished the great event known as the Emigration (hijra, distorted by Europeans into hegira), which forms the starting-point of the Muslim era.

On his arrival at Medina the Prophet was welcomed with enthusiasm by a large proportion of the natives; but he did not at once claim the position of a ruler. Those who acknowledged his divine mission could merely promise personal obedience. The people as a whole had not submitted to his authority; they were only his "Helpers" (Anṣār), pledged to defend him, for, according to Arabian notions, a guarantee of protection given by one member of a clan binds all the rest. It was by the gradual extension of his personal influence, not in virtue of any formal agreement, that he succeeded in making himself master of the place. The Meccan "Emigrants" (Muhājirūn) were, of course, entirely


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130 Anglo-Saxon missionaries. Boniface, like Willibrord, went to Rome to receive investiture, and the Pope conferred on him successively the titles of missionary, bishop, and archbishop. It may have been Boniface who brought the papal see into relations with the Carolingians.

The circumstances were as follows. Liutprand king of the Lombards was anxious to impose his authority on the dukes of Spoleto and Benevento and to wrest from the Byzantine Empire its last remaining possessions in Italy. He first attacked and defeated Thrasamund, duke of Spoleto, who thereupon took refuge at Rome. Liutprand demanded from Pope Gregory III the surrender of Thrasamund, and on Gregory's refusal he laid siege to the Eternal City. The Pope, in distress, sent an embassy to Charles, consisting of the bishop Anastasius and a priest named Sergius, to implore him to deliver the people of Rome from the Lombard oppression. By these ambassadors he sent to Charles "the keys of the Confession of St Peter," portions of the chains of the Prince of the Apostles and various magnificent gifts. The "keys" were a kind of decoration which the pontiffs were accustomed to confer on illustrious personages, while the chains were supposed to have miraculous virtues. This embassy impressed the imagination of contemporaries, and the continuator of Fredegar lays much stress on it. In return for the help which he implored Gregory III offered to renounce the imperial suzerainty and to confer upon the Mayor of the Palace a certain authority over Rome, with the title of Roman Consul. Gregory III seems to have had a kind of intuition of the great historic change which was afterwards to take place when the popes were to turn away from the Emperor of Byzantium and attach themselves to the king of the Franks. Charles gave the papal envoys a cordial reception (739) and showered gifts upon the Pope, sending them by the hands of Grimo, abbot of Corbie, and Sigebert, a monk of St Denis. But that was all. He could not take sides against Liutprand who had been his ally against the Arabs. In vain did Gregory write to him in 740 two imploring letters: "I adjure thee in the name of the true and living God, and by the keys of St Peter's Confession which I sent thee, not to prefer the friendship of a king of the Lombards to that of the Prince of the Apostles, but to come quickly to our aid." Charles turned a deaf ear to this new appeal, and both he and the Pope died not long after.

When he felt his end approaching, Charles divided the kingdom between his sons as if he had been sole master of it. The eldest, Carloman, received Austrasia, Alemannia, and Thuringia, with the suzerainty of Bavaria; the younger, Pepin, had for his share Neustria, Burgundy, and Provence, with the suzerainty of Aquitaine. Not long afterwards (22 October 741), Charles died at Quierzy-sur-Oise and was buried at St Denis. His grandson, Charles the Great, bore his name and closely resembled him in character; he inherited his great vigour and martial ardour, but he had a higher conception of his


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Crennan J

Some considerations of trade mark law and observations about the nature of composite trade marks support the Commonwealth's submissions and show that the plaintiffs' characterisation of the effect of the Packaging Act on their pre-existing rights was overstated.

A trade mark is a sign used or intended to be used to distinguish a registered owner's goods in the course of trade. An application for registration of a trade mark must be rejected if the trade mark is not capable of fulfilling the function of distinguishing the applicant's goods from those of others. Composite marks, just as much as marks consisting of a word or brand name alone, are assessed for registration on their capacity to distinguish the registered owner's goods from those of others. Entitlement to registration does not depend on a trade mark's capacity to advertise goods or to promote sales. A registered trade mark which can no longer perform the function of distinguishing its owner's goods from those of another trader will be liable to rectification or removal. Furthermore, there are numerous grounds upon which an application for registration of a trade mark may be rejected, including that a trade mark used on the goods for which registration is sought would be likely to deceive or cause confusion. There are also numerous legislative provisions bearing upon the use or registration of a trade mark.

Whilst the prime concern of the Trade Marks Act is with the capacity of a trade mark to distinguish the goods of the registered owner from those of another trader, trade marks undoubtedly perform other functions. For example, a trade mark can be an indicium of the quality of goods sold under or by reference to it and it may be accepted that distinctive marks can have a capacity to advertise, and therefore to promote, sales of products sold under or by reference to them. The advertising function of a trade mark is much more readily appreciated than it once was, and that function may be of great commercial value.


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314 devoted to him from the first, and formed, so to speak, his bodyguard. Many of the Medinese, especially those of the younger generation, were no less zealous in his cause; their principal duty, during the first few months after the Emigration, consisted in housing and feeding the Emigrants. But not a few, even of those who called themselves Muslims, were either hostile or indifferent; the Koran frequently refers to them as the "Hypocrites" (Munāfiḳūn, a term borrowed from the Aethiopic). The most celebrated of these was a certain 'Abdallāh ibn Ubayy, a chief of the Khazraj, who before the arrival of Mahomet had played a very prominent part. The opposition of such persons is to be ascribed mainly to personal jealousy or other worldly motives. More consistent, and hence more formidable, was the enmity of the Jews. It is clear that at first Mahomet confidently reckoned on their support, but he soon discovered his mistake. With rare exceptions they absolutely refused to acknowledge him as a prophet, and thus forced him to become their adversary. Henceforth the antagonism between Islām and Judaism began to shew itself even in externals. This was seen most clearly when, in the second year after the Emigration, Mahomet ordered his disciples to pray towards Mecca instead of praying towards Jerusalem.

The historian Ibn Iṣḥāḳ has preserved for us the text of an important document which seems to have been drawn up, under the Prophet's direction, at about this time. It may be described as an attempt to settle, at least provisionally, the relations between the various classes into which the people of Medina were divided. All the inhabitants, believers and unbelievers alike, are declared to be a single community (umma); the clans remain distinct for certain purposes but are debarred from making war on one another. Should any dispute arise, the matter is to be brought before "God and Mahomet." All are bound to unite for the defence of Medina in case it should be attacked. No one is to conclude an agreement with the Ḳuraish (i.e. the heathen Meccans) or with any ally of the Ḳuraish.

The establishing of public security at Medina was necessarily the first object which the Prophet had in view; but in addition to this he found himself compelled to supply his own followers with the rudiments of a legal code. At Mecca his teaching had been almost entirely confined to the sphere of faith and personal morality; of external regulations he had seldom had occasion to speak. But as soon as Islām became the


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PETERSON’S MAGAZINE.

Vol. XLI. "STRIVE

AND THRIVE."

BY MRS. N. M'CONAUGHY.

"You do not really say that your husband is going to buy a house these hard times, Laura ?”

"I do not say he is going to buy one, cousin, but that he has bought the dearest little home, just a nice distance from the city, and that we are going to take possession before May- day,so we can begin to improve it bright and early next spring. There is half an acre of ground attached, and a nice grass- plot, where the children can tumble about to their hearts' content, without being disturbed by any notice ' to keep off the grass.'

"But how did you manage to buy it these dreadful times? Your income is no larger than ours, and we think it all we can do to live. And, to tell you the truth, Laura, " her voice sank to a confidential whisper, " we are several hundred dollars in debt. How it is ever to be paid is more than I can see. It worries me daily. " -

ours

us,

Laura ; but not the ' ways and means. ' Has any one left your husband a legacy ? I know we have no rich relations to expect anything from, the more of a pity, too!"

"I am not sure that would have been so great a benefit to us, Lida. What we gain by our own exertions is really worth a great deal more to because it develops our own powers. Dr. Adams says, ' There is an invisible wealth in possessions acquired by personal industry and economy, which cannot be computed by the "' numeration table. ' You ask how we got the

money, and I will tell you, cousin. When we first commenced housekeeping, we ' set up, ' at my suggestion, a savings-box, in a corner of the bureau, and resolved to save something, if only a half- dime, out of all our earnings, toward buying a home some day. My husband rather { laughed over the project, and had no great faith No wonder the visitor's countenance assumed in the results ; but I persevered, and the first i a troubled expression, for what burden can com- year's success encouraged us to continue it. pare to that which a weight of hopeless debt Year after year we kept on, until the snow-ball imposes ? One who can be at ease in the enjoy- assumed quite a respectable size. We have inment of home comforts, when he feels they are dulged ourselves in few expensive luxuries ; but not paid for, must have feelings peculiar to him- I believe we have enjoyed our many simple ones self and not at all to be envied. The discomfort more than those who expend thousands every of self-denial in luxuries, or even in comforts, year on mere amusements. The children have cannot compare with the feeling of distress frequent rides by cars or steamboat, and every which the consciousness of debt produces. few weeks a half-day in the country. By study "We thought it the best time to buy, as the and forethought I have learned to prepare many property was much lower than last year. We excellent dishes for our table at a trifling exhave been saving the money for it these eight pense . I always prepare a new dish myself, years, and now have enough and a little over. and do not trust Ann with it until I am sure she The sooner we move into it the better for all of knows how. We live a great deal better and us, especially the children . Just think what a much cheaper than we did the first year of change it will be from this dusty, close street, housekeeping, though there are three children to a country home with pure air all about us, to feed now. A cook left without oversight will and a real out- doors to our house, ' as Georgie squander nearly as much as a family consumes. " says. The doctor says it is the only medicine our Gracie needs ; and I mean they shall all

three enjoy it to the full next summer. " "I can see the desirableness of it very well,

"I wonder you always dressed yourself and children so well, Laura, when you were so bent on economizing. "

"That was part of my economy, Lida. I find

445 VOL. XLI.-28

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Rh So ghosts hide in steel like heavy-armed men in mirrors. Peepers, skulkers—they shadow-dance in laughing tombs. They are always there and they never answer. One of them said: "I like my job, the company is good to me, America is a wonderful country." One: "Jesus, my bones ache; the company is a liar; this is a free country, like hell." One: "I got a girl, a peach; we save up and go on a farm and raise pigs and be the boss ourselves." And the others were roughneck singers a long ways from home. Look for them back of a steel vault door. They laugh at the cost. They lift the birdmen into the blue. It is steel a motor sings and zooms. In the subway plugs and drums, In the slow hydraulic drills, in gumbo or gravel, Under dynamo shafts in the webs of armature spiders. They shadow-dance and laugh at the cost.

The ovens light a red dome. Spools of fire wind and wind. Quadrangles of crimson sputter. The lashes of dying maroon let down. Fire and wind wash out the slag. the slag gets washed in fire and wind.

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NEW STYLES OF HEAD-DRESSES.

CHILDREN'S FASHIONS FOR JUNE

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 500

FASHIONS

FOR JUNE.

FIG. IV. HOME DRESS OF PEARL-COLORED SILK.-The skirt buttons. Many of the new dresses are opened part of the is trimmed with rows of narrow black lace. A Medici way down the front of the body in a heart-shape, or square, ceinture has long ends, edged with black lace, and is em- a la Raphael ; whilst others, of very thin material, are broidered in pearl-colored silk. In the upper parts of the made low in the neck, and can either be worn with a cape, ends are small pockets, also embroidered.. or a white over-body. Over some of the high bodies are FIG. V. BLACK SILK SONTAG.-This useful article is made worn what is called the Spanish jacket, which somewhat of black silk, edged with black guipure or Honiton lace. resembles the Zouave jacket, but fits the figure more It is intended to wear under a shawl or sacque, when it closely, and is much shorter. ANOTHER STYLE OF HIGH BODY will have a small jacket may be necessary to throw either of them off the shoulders, and presents a much more dressy and elegant appearance at the back only, similar to a habit. A favorite style of than a knit Sontag. For cold weather it may be slightly trimming high bodies will be Arabesque designs in braid, very narrow velvet, or silk gimp : with this style a kind of wadded. FIG. VI.- BLACK NET, trimmed with loops and rosettes fringe should ornament the sleeves and round the waist. SLEEVES are large, even when shaped at the elbow : puffed made of very narrow pink ribbon. sleeves will be worn, but very few tight to the arm. FIG. VII.- HEAD-DRESS OF BLACK AND PURPLE RIBBON. THE MEDICI CEINTURES appear to be now, with many perFIG. VIII - MISSES' HAT, from Genin's, 513 Broadway, New York, composed of fine white English straw, bell-crown.sons, an indispensable article of dress. They are made in The front is of black velvet, and bound all round with vel- a variety of ways, and are trimmed in so many different vet; trimmings composed of loops of black and white velvet styles that it would be impossible to describe all we have fastened with straw buttons. The right side is ornamented seen. The ceintures are all made with pointed bands round with a white ostrich plume. Strings of broad white ribbon, the waist, and have two ends falling down the skirt on each side of the point. Small trimmed pockets are generally with bows at the ears looped with black velvet. in the ends, or a trimming to imitate them is subFIG. IX.- Bor's HAT, also from Genin's. It is of white inserted stituted. English straw, bell-crown, with a slightly rolled brim piped We have noticed these sashes in plain silk, with crosswith blue velvet. A band of blue velvet encircles the crown, bars of velvet, fastened by beads, as an ornament for the and on the left side are two pearl and straw ornaments. bottom. Others have an end of embroidered net, and FIG. X.- TRAVELING BONNET, from Mrs. Cripps, 312 Canal are merely trimmed with ruches; but the pointed street, New York, of gray Neapolitan straw. Cape ofgreen others band is invariably ornamented to correspond with the two silk, with a small plaiting of black lace in the center. The ends. brim has a full bow of green ribbon intermingled with Of FICHUS, and black and white net ZOUAVE JACKETS, for black lace. Cap of black and white blonde with a bouquet evening wear, we can only say that they are as much worn of violets, cherry blossoms and roses. Broad green strings. as ever; as are also velvet jackets, embroide red in steel or FIG. XI - BRIDAL BONNET, from Mrs. Cripps, of plain black. white chip; transparent cape edged with chip, and ornaSHORT SACQUES, made of silk, cloth, or sacque flannel, are mented by a fall of rich white blonde, which extends over the front, terminating on the left side with a puffing of universally worn. These sacques are loose, have moderately tulle, and is finished by a bouquet of fox-gloves, snow- wide coat-sleeves, and are trimmed with designs in braiddrops, and fern leaves. Cap of full puffings of tulle, finished ing, gimp binding, etc. BONNETS Continue to be worn projecting in the front, and at the top with a bouquet of moss rose-buds, cherry blos cut away at the side. They are covered tight to the shape, soms, white violets and leaves. Broad white strings. FIG. XII.- GRAY SACQUE, from Benson's, 310 Canal street, with a cord piping round the edge, and the curtain neither New York, bound with black silk; the front is double- so wide nor so deep as formerly. The trimming is somebreasted and faced with black silk. The collar is also times laid on the crown, and sometimes on the front of the bound with black silk. Two pockets ornament the left bonnet, being usually of flowers, berries, and green leaves, with tufts of the same as under-trimming. A very simple side, and one on the right. The sleeves are long and but style is passing to place aa long bow of broad ribbon the slightly flowing, the fronts trimmed with two pointed lap- frontlady-like piece sameonover of the bonnet, of the pets bound with black, and each lappet fastened down at the back with three buttons. This is a very cool and use- it, in the center, and giving it one twist, on each side, in bringing it down to the points where it forms the strings. ful sacque for summer. FIG. XIII - A SACQUE MANTLE, also from Benson. It is open at the neck, and trimmed round with a very full double box-plaiting of black silk stitched on either edge. CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. The plaiting extending up the fronts and round the neck, is fastened down at both sides. FIG. 1.- DRESS FOR A LITTLE BOY OF three or foUR YEARS GENERAL REMARKS.- Dresses still continue to have the OF AGE. This dress is composed of white pique or Marskirts gored, thus diminishing the fullness around the seilles, and trimmed with black silk braid put in a Greek waist, though they are not made quite as narrow at the border. Sash of black silk. Black straw cap, with a white top as heretofore. Trimmings of various descriptions are plume. again coming into favor : one favorite style being very narFIG. II.- DRESS FOR A LITTLE BOY.- The skirt, as well as row fluted flounces of the same silk as the dress, placed the Garibaldi shirt, is made of white jaconet embroidered two and two together : another style is a fluted flounce in coral-colored braid. Wide silk sash of the same color of about six or seven inches deep, set on with narrow head- the braid. Brown straw hat. FIG. III.- DRESS OF PINK BAREGE FOR A LITTLE GIRL.-The ing. A very striking trimming for a dress of light gray silk is formed by rows of ribbon, the four colors of the flounces, belt, and ruffles, on the sleeves and body, are all trimmed with a narrow black velvet ribbon. rainbow; they should be either eight or twelve in number, and the widths should graduate. Narrow ruches, waved or The other engravings of children's dresses, in this numformed into Greek borders, is a favorite trimming, these ber, have been described elsewhere. In former numbers should be the color of the dress. Ribbon or velvet, con- we gave at large, descriptions of the material most fashiontrasting in color to the dress, and arranged in the Greek able for children this year, so that there is nothing to add, or Ionic border, will be likewise worn. this month. By request, we give, in another place, diaBODIES OF DRESSES, when high, are closed with small grams for a boy's jacket and pantaloons.

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