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 ECENTLY, while passing through a little street tenanted chiefly by dealers in old wares, I noticed a furisodé, or long-sleeved robe, of the rich purple tint called murasaki, hanging before one of the shops. It was a robe such as might have been worn by a lady of rank in the time of the Tokugawa. I stopped to look at the five crests upon it; and in the same moment there came to my recollection this legend of a similar robe said to have once caused the destruction of Yedo.

Nearly two hundred and fifty years ago, the daughter of a rich merchant of the city of the Shōguns, while attending some temple-festival, perceived in the crowd a young samurai of remarkable beauty, and immediately fell in love with him. Unhappily for her, he disappeared in the press before she could learn through her attendants who he was or whence he had come.


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Index talk:On the Influence of Carbonic Acid in the Air upon the Temperature of the Ground.pdf

What should be the guidelines for the use of in this project? Habitator terrae (talk) 21:20, 13 December 2023 (UTC)
 * It’s best used for formul (and Greek letters not used to write Greek). I have also used it for numbers relating to formul (like the “0.5” and “0.22” on p. 256), but not for other numbers (like most of the numbers in tables). By the way, good job working on this project; even though it’s “not proofread,” your work looks really good. I’ll probably go back over and mark some as proofread soon. TE(æ)A,ea. (talk) 23:27, 13 December 2023 (UTC)
 * I've made a few changes, e.g. Page:On the Influence of Carbonic Acid in the Air upon the Temperature of the Ground.pdf/10. What do you think? Habitator terrae (talk) 21:03, 16 December 2023 (UTC)
 * That looks good, in terms of adding the math tag. TE(æ)A,ea. (talk) 00:14, 20 December 2023 (UTC)
 * As the transcription now is done, might you take a look? Thanks for answering. Habitator terrae (talk) 00:04, 2 January 2024 (UTC)


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 But his image remained vivid in her memory,—even to the least detail of his costume. The holiday attire then worn by samurai youths was scarcely less brilliant than that of young girls; and the upper dress of this handsome stranger had seemed wonderfully beautiful to the enamoured maiden. She fancied that by wearing a robe of like quality and color, bearing the same crest, she might be able to attract his notice on some future occasion.

Accordingly she had such a robe made, with very long sleeves, according to the fashion of the period; and she prized it greatly. She wore it whenever she went out; and when at home she would suspend it in her room, and try to imagine the form of her unknown beloved within it. Sometimes she would pass hours before it,—dreaming and weeping by turns. And she would pray to the gods and the Buddhas that she might win the young man’s affection,—often repeating the invocation of the Nichiren sect: Namu myō hō rengé kyō!

But she never saw the youth again; and she pined with longing for him, and sickened, and died, and was buried. After her burial, the long-sleeved robe that she had so much prized was


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 152

DIAGRAM

OF

EUGENIE PALETOT.

the chest; but by omitting this fish, and cutting other figure above will be obtained. the skirt a little shorter, a Paletot like the these are very pretty affairs.

Both of

N °1

N° 2

N°3 72 N

°4 N

231N

82IN

DIAGRAM OF EUGENIE PALETOT.

CORSET - COVER. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER. In the front of the number, we give an engraving of a Corset-Cover of white cambric , fulled into a deep waistband of longcloth : an insertion band to fit the neck either of Cluny,

or embroidery. Edge with Cluny, if the insertion is of Cluny ; or with Valenciennes, if the band is of embroidery. For full dress, of an evening, this cover is very nice.

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 THE EUGENIE PALETOT.

151

CAST on 56 stitches, knit 12 rows, knit 2, and over 2 of the stitches lying underneath, and purl, alternately, 2 stitches in the round like the always 1 stitch at the beginning, and 1 stitch edge of a stocking, then cast off. Next crochet in the middle of the row, which by this means in the cast-on stitches of the edge with a thick is divided into 2 equal parts. After this there remain 32 stitches. Now needle a line of trebles in separate, complete rows, so that each row concludes with 1 single lay the 2 sides of the glove flat, in such a manin the 3rd chain of the first treble. The stitches ner that the decreasing forms the side opening, " may be made between the treble or in the 2 and crochet the opening of the glove together uppermost threads of the stitch. Work 11 rows on the wrong side. Ornament the edge of the without increasing or decreasing. In order to knitting with red wool in little scallops of crochet give the glove the pointed form, decrease inthe { of 5 chain and 1 double-stitch. following 7 rows, always 2 stitches by passing {

THE

EUGENIE

PALETOT.

BY EMILY H. MAY

0.00

0

0000

110000

WE, this month, render our series of winter Paletots more complete by presenting our fair subscribers with the pattern of the EUGENIE PALETOT, or out-door jacket, shown above. It is cut to fall nearly square, that is to say, it only defines the waist in a very slight degree. It is, for a well-proportioned figure, measuring

about 34 inches round the chest. We have given, on the next page a diagram, showing the back, side-piece, front, and the top part of sleeve, which our readers can easily complete to its full length, according to taste. On the front we have marked, by pricked lines, the form of the fish which has to be taken out in

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 given to the Buddhist temple of which her family were parishioners. It is an old custom to thus dispose of the garments of the dead.

The priest was able to sell the robe at a good price; for it was a costly silk, and bore no trace of the tears that had fallen upon it. It was bought by a girl of about the same age as the dead lady. She wore it only one day. Then she fell sick, and began to act strangely,—crying out that she was haunted by the vision of a beautiful young man, and that for love of him she was going to die. And within a little while she died; and the long-sleeved robe was a second time presented to the temple.

Again the priest sold it; and again it became the property of a young girl, who wore it only once. Then she also sickened, and talked of a beautiful shadow, and died, and was buried. And the robe was given a third time to the temple; and the priest wondered and doubted.

Nevertheless he ventured to sell the luckless garment once more. Once more it was purchased by a girl and once more worn; and the wearer pined and died. And the robe was given a fourth time to the temple.

Then the priest felt sure that there was some


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 STRIPE IN TRICOT, FOR SOFA-PILLOWS, ANTI-MACASSARS, ETC. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS. -Berlin wool of two colors ; filo- Again put the wool round the hook, insert the selle of three colors ; tricot hook, No. 13, bell hook again in the same stitch once more, and gauge. These stripes may be alternated with you will have 7 stitches on the hook. Now draw stripes of plain tricot, or with velvet, rep, etc. the wool at once through 6 of these stitches ; For the center ground-work of the pattern then you will have 2 stitches upon your needle, make a chain of 24 stitches, and work the re- through which draw the wool : repeat from *. quired length of the tricot. Next row, single stitches. To begin the border, work a row of single Next row, raised. Work the single over the stitches, 1 stitch of which is worked through raised, and the raised over the single stitches the edge-stitch, and a stitch through the second of last row. The embroidered flowers, which are worked stitch below, alternately ; then 3 plain rows of single stitches. with silk, do not need explanation. Three colors For the raised pattern *, work 1 single, put may be used if green is introduced in the thick the wool round the hook, and put the hook part of the pattern ; if not, a fourth must be emthrough 2 stitches beneath, in a straight line.ployed, as the little stalk should be green.

DISH- WASHING

150

GLOVE.

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 WAISTBAND OF CLUNY INSERTION, WITH ROSETTE. chain, 1 single in the first of these. The little pattern thus formed must be looped with 1 single to the middle of the chain-stitch scallop ; 3 chain lead to the next scallop, and repeat from to the end of the row.

149

3rd row: Work again upon the right side, * 1 single in the uppermost chain of the under pattern point, then 2 chain, 1 picot -5 chain and 1 single in the first of these-2 chain. Repeat from *.

WAISTBAND OF CLUNY INSERTION, WITH ROSETTE. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

COVER a belting with Cluny insertion, same edge. Make the waistband to fit the figure, width as the belt. The rosette is made of nar- fastening with three large hooks and eyes : the row taffeta ribbon, edged with a narrow Cluny rosette covers the fastening.

DESIGN IN BERLIN WOOL AND BEAD - WORK. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

WOOL of three shades or colors, bugles, tern, which makes very pretty centers for and crystal-beads, are needed for this pat- mats, etc.

INITIALS.

C.D.S

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 148

TRIMMING FOR A PLAIN CASHMERE PETTICOAT. m

rings with the scarlet wool, working in single crochet. It is a great improvement to work one row of single stitches in yellow floss silk on the rings after covering them with the wool.

Join them together, and sew the first row around the bottom of the basket ; then arrange the upper row so it may spread a little at the top. A very pretty and inexpensive work-basket.

TRIMMING FOR A PLAIN CASHMERE PETTICOAT. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

A PIECE of striped material is appliqued to, at each edge with colored silk. A coral pattern the cashmere; this is bordered with braid or of silk of the same color is worked in the center velvet put on in a pointed form, herring-boned of the border.

CROCHET

EDGING.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER. 1st row: Alternately, 6 chain, with which pass over 3 stitches of the first chain and 1 double. 2nd row: Work this row returning, so that the little worked pattern worked on the right side may appear to be worked on the wrong MATERIAL.-Tolerably fine cotton. side. 1 single in the middle of the under Make a chain the requisite length, and work chain-stitch scallop, then 6 chain upon these for the returning, 1 treble in the second, and then 1

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 WATCH- CASE. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER

TAQDITTELL

MATERIALS. -25 small brass rings ; 4 skeins ( panying the design. Thread the beads and green floss silk ; some wax-beads (imitation join four in the center of all the rings. Join these rings as seen in the design. The back pearls.) of the case is of cardboard covered with green silk. Finish with tassels of beads.

Cover the rings with the floss silk in single crochet-stitch, working two rows over each ring, as may be seen in the larger rings accom-

BASKET

IN

CROCHET.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

alado 8 tails 3 :0 000 two side wow moting bp ) MATERIALS. 38 or 40 small brass rings ; { For the bottom of the basket, work in single several yards of worsted blind- cord, ( or other crochet over the cord, widening the work to keep it flat. Make 8 or 10 rows. Cover the stiff cord ; ) scarlet double zephyr. 147

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 LITTLE

KEY - BOARD.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

THE materials for this useful household ap- } black, and the little squares are worked in a pendage are a piece of wool, brown velvet or somewhat darker shade than the covering, with rep ; brown and yellow silk cordon ; black silk cordon ; and the four threads crossing each beads ; brown cord ; and six brass hooks. other in the middle of the square, are of yellow The design represents a Key- Board nine silk in point Russe. When the work is finished, inches long, four inches wide, and half an inch fasten the cover over the board by a few long thick, covered with velvet or rep, and orna- stitches of coarse thread. Put on a cord all mented all round in point Russe with brown round, and leave it long enough for the handle, cord to match the velvet, ornamented with the and put in the brass hooks. The back may pattern on our design. The color may be then be covered with a piece of lining, in any chosen according to fancy. The beads are appropriate material.

CROCHET

EDGING.

153

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 EDITOR'S EDITORIAL CHIT- CHAT. FLOWERS IN THE PARLOR.-When we call to mind some friend, who is always successful with her parlor flowers, and whose plants are strong and healthy, we may be sure she has conquered success by energetic devotion to her pets. She has discovered that it is no easy thing to grow flowers or plants in the vitiated air of a close room. She will tell you that her first thought was for a proper location ; her object being to obtain for her favorites the greatest possible amount of air and sunshine. An castern or southern window is the best; but if either is not to be had, then chose the one that will admit the most sunlight. The temperature of the room, in which your flowers and plants are, should never fall below forty or forty-five degrees. The heat should be afforded by an open fire, or an air-tight stove, on which should be constantly kept a pan of water. The gas from a furnace is always injurious to delicate plants; but if furnace-heat is the only kind possible, provide for moisture by evaporation. Plants suffer most, and oftenest decay, from a scarcity of light and an excess of heat. Ventilation must be attended to, also. Plants crave the air as much as our human lungs do-it is vital to their growth ; but care must be taken never to raise a window upon your plants in cold weather. The washing ofthe plants must be done frequently; their pores are liable to be stopped up by dirt, which must be washed off at least once a week. Tepid water is the best, and, if they are very dirty, weak soap-suds are best. But never wet the flowers of a plant- water always injures them; nor allow drops of water to stand on the leaves in the sunshine. Let watering always be done with a fine-nosed wateringpot ; where a pitcher or cup is used, it is liable to disturb the earth about the roots. Let it be done regularly once a day, and in the morning ; and let the temperature of the water be the same as that of the atmosphere of the room. Neither let the soil become entirely dry nor sodden with moisture. Use the common flower-pots : light-colored ones are best, being more porous than the dark ones. Discard all glazed, china, glass, or fancy-painted pots, unless to set the earthenware ones inside of. In planting, always fill the lower inch of the pot with broken potsherds, to secure drainage; then fill in the earth firmly, and securely establish the plant. Plants should always be repotted when their roots touch the bottom or sides. In repotting always use fresh, rich soil. To protect your flowers from insects and worms, use tobacco-smoke and warm soap-suds. The mealy bug is to be searched for and killed. Be careful to remove all dead leaves and branches The time to prune, if you are obliged to prune at all, is when your knife is sharpest. THE LARGE CIRCULATION, which " Peterson's Magazine" has had for several years, is greatly increased for 1867. For several years, no other monthly periodical whatever has printed and sold so many copies as " Peterson." This is easily accounted for, however. "Peterson" gives more for the money, and of a better quality, than any other ladies' magazine. We are contented to make no more out of a large edition than others do out of a small one ; and hence are able to present our subscribers with better engravings, better fashions, better stories, better everything.

TABLE. THE PRINCESS DAGMAR'S MARRIAGE.-The writer of this, when in Paris, last fall, saw many of the dresses which were to be worn at the marriage of the Princess Dagmar, then about to be wedded to the heir of the Czar. We have since read a full description of them as they were worn at the ceremony. The bride's own dress was of the richest silver cloth, and over it the Princess wore a manteau de cour of ruby velvet, bordered with ermine; this train was of immense length, and was borne by four chamberlains. a coronet of diamonds, with a cross in the center, formed the head-dress. The Empress of Russia wore a magnificent dress of cloth of gold, trimmed with bands of cerise velvet, which bands were almost concealed by the diamonds with which they were studded. The court train was cloth of gold to match the dress ; the sleeves of the dress were long and very wide ; a diamond diadem, ofthe form called " Imperial," completed this most magnificent costume. The French Ambassador's wife wore a brocaded orange and gold train, bordered with the most costly Russian sable ; the dress was profusely ornamented with diamonds. The Grand Duchess Maria de Leuchtenberg outshone all others with diamonds, for she was literally covered with them. Her dress was white, and the front of the skirt was trimmed with three rows of magnificent brilliants ; a grecque ofbrilliants replaced the berthe usually worn round the bodice, and a bouquet of diamonds was fastened to the riviere which encircled her throat. This bouquet was so large that it concealed her shoulders. The prettiest woman at the ceremony, however, was the Princess Dagmar. She is said to be even prettier than her sister, the Princess of Wales, who, by-the-by, is the prettiest woman we saw in England. FASHIONS IN CRINOLINE.- It is the fashion now, as our readers know, to wear small crinolines. Some ladies go without any, imitating, in this respect, the English; but this is not the proper style, and is rejected here, as well as in Paris, by every woman of taste. The prettiest and best crinoline now worn is the " new Invisible Empress Trail," just introduced by J. W. Bradley, the well-known manufacturer of the popular " Duplex Eliptic Skirt." This new crinoline is especially adapted to the present fashion of short dresses, and measures two and three-quarters and three yards in circumference at the bottom. We hope, for sanitary reasons, that crinolines will always be worn ; but we are glad to see them reduced, at least, to proper dimensions; and of all the crinolines we have seen, the best is the new pattern. THE EMPRESS OF FRANCE, it is said, wore the most splendid dress, at the recent fete at Compiegne, which she ever wore. It was ordered from Lyons expressly for the occasion, and cost one hundred and forty dollars, in gold, per yard. The material was ruby-colored velvet, brocaded with gold. The Empress wore it with a low bodice, and ornamented with gold lace. NOT TO DRESS WELL is to do one's self a real injustice. It is not necessary to spend much money in order to dress well. What is wanted is taste and a knowledge of the latest styles. It is astonishing on how little money a Parisian manages to dress; and yet no women in the world are better dressed than the Parisians.

THE FASHIONABLE COLORS, this winter, are a sort of NEVER LOSE YOUR TEMPER.-It is one of the few things bronzed maroon; a new blue called the " Bismark Blue ;" for which there is no excuse. and a dark green christened the " Corinth Green." 154

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 REVIEW OF

NEW

BOOKS.

155

THE NEW STYLE OF SKIRT.-The great dress-maker of ¿ The Soldier's Orphans. By Mrs. Ann S. Stephens. 1 vol., 18 Paris, our readers should known, is a man. To have their vo. Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.-Our subscribers, dresses made by Mr. Worth is the ambition of everybody for 1866, are already familiar with this novel. It was one in the French capital who can afford it. Worth has just of the most popular we ever published in our Magazine; introduced an entirely new kind of skirt, one very long at and has been reprinted by T. B. Peterson & Brothers in the back, and very short in front. Skirts, which are made consequence of the great demand for it. A fiction may, with a petticoat to match, are only scalloped or vandyked sometimes, be popular without any particular merit ; but in the front; at the back the edge of the skirt falls in a we really think " The Soldier's Orphans" one of the best straight line over the petticoat. There is endless variety stories Mrs. Stephens has written ; and hence we are glad in the form of what are called dents in France, and for to notice the success of the work, because we think that which expression there is, we believe, no equivalent in success to be eminently deserved. The publishers havo English which expresses the meaning in a single word. issued the volume in a very neat style. By dents are understood the scallops, vandykes, and the Fairy Tales of All Nations. By Edward Laboulaye. three sides of a square, (styled battlements, ) into which it Translated by Mary L. Booth. With Engravings. 1 vol., has become the fashion to cut out the edges of all skirts 12 mo. New York: Harper & Brothers.-The author of and petticoats. There are, likewise, the large lozenge- this book, a member of the Institute of France, is also a shaped dents, the small and very pointed dents calledfolies, capital writer of fairy tales for children. We rank him, the round dents, more or less scalloped or hollowed out, in this latter respect, next to Hans Christian Andersen. (and when these last named are used, the trimming is The present collection was submitted to Mr. Laboulaye usually carried up to the center of the skirt ;) and, lastly, for his approval before its publication, and he declared there are the dents grecques. All the taste and fancy which himself highly satisfied with it. " The composition of the a dress-maker may possess are expended, now-a-days, on volume," he says, in a preface he wrote for it, " is excellent, the cut and trimmings of the skirt : but little attention is I shall take great pleasure in seeing myself in an apparently paid to the bodice, in the style of which there and American dress." The book is handsomely printed. is no change; in fact, many of the fantastic toilets, which Out of Town. By Barry Gray. 1 vol., crown 8 ro. New are in great demand at the present moment, are made without bodices to match, a chemise-russe, or a Garibaldi, York: Hurd & Houghton.-A very beautiful volume, with replacing the legitimate bodice. If a short dress is ordered, illustrations by Gignoux, Gifford, Beard, and others. The in either gros grain or velvet, then a low, square bodice, author is one of our most popular cotemporary writers. with braces to match the skirt, is made, and this is worn His "Matrimonial Infelicities," and his " My Married Life either over a high white bodice, or over a silk bodice of a at Hillside," were both capital books; and the present one totally different color. The most charming effects have is not a whit behind either of them. Indeed, in most rebeen obtained, in this very fantastic style of ladies' cos- spects, we prefer " Out Of Town." The humor of Barry Gray, and his love of nature, ought to make him, even withtume, by a skillful mixture of poplin and cashmere. out other qualities, a successful author. OUR CLUB PRICES.-As our club prices have been misunThe Poems of Alfred B. Street. 2 vols., 12 mo. New York: derstood by some subscribers, we recapitulate them here, Hurd & Houghton.-As a descriptive poet Mr. Street ranks viz : five copies for $8.00 ; eight copies for $12.00 ; or four- deservedly high. He is not a lyrist; he is not dramatic ; teen copies for $20.00 : with an extra copy, or other pre- he belongs to the school neither of Burns nor Shakspeare. mium, to the person getting up the club. In other words, But what Thomson was to English poetry, that, in a great whoever will send us five subscribers at $1.60 each ; or degree, Street is to American. His walk is not the highest; eight at $1.50 ; or fourteen at $1.43, shall be entitled to an but in that walk he has few superiors. We are glad, thereextra copy, or other premium, for his, or her trouble. This fore, to see so elegant an edition of his poems. The volumes last club of fourteen for $20.00 is the cheapest we have. are small octavos- the very size for handy reading; and These prices, compared with those of other magazines, are are beautifully printed on fine, pressed paper. astonishingly low. In fact, our full price to single subSt. Elmo. By Augusta J. Erans. 1 vol., 12 mo. New scribers, viz : $2.00, is cheaper than the lowest club price York: Carleton.-The author of this fiction is already known ofmany magazines not so good as this. to the public. Her " Beulah" had a very large sale before " THE PARLOR STAGE."-Under this title, Dick & Fitz- the war. Her " Macaria" was printed at Richmond, during gerald, of New York, have published a collection of cha- the war, and was subsequently, we believe, reprinted in rades and proverbs, intended for the drawing-room, or New York. We have not yet had time to peruse "St. saloon. S. Annie Frost, one of our own contributors, is Elmo," and therefore can only announce it; but it is said the author of the work. The charades require no expen- to be superior, in a literary point of view, to either of her former novels. sive apparatus of scenery or properties for their performRavel Story Books. 3 vols., 4 to. Philada: J. B. Lippinance. cott & Co.-We have here, in three thin quartos, illustrated A GOOD SEWING-MACHINE has come to be indispensable with colored engravings, the stories of " The White in every family. We hear, on all hands, the " Florence" Knight," " Mazuline," and " Jocko," as played by the called such. A lady writes to us, " It is the best thing Ravels. The stories are told in verse. The books are capital ones for children, and ought to have a large sale. .made in the sewing-machine line." Guy Hamilton. A Story of our Civil War. 1 rol., 8 vo. wwwwwww New York: The American News Company.-The authoress of this novel, Miss J. II. Mathews, is, we believe, a new REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS. candidate for literary favor. We bespeak for her a favorEssays on Art. By Francis Turner Palgrave. 1 vol., able hearing. 12 mo. New York: Hurd & Houghton.-These are capital Outpost. By J. G. Austin. 1 vol. 12 mo. Boston : J. E. essays. Mr. Palgrave believes that art has fixed principles, to the knowledge of which any person, not wanting in Tillon & Co.- A very readable story, by the author of natural taste, may attain. He is, undoubtedly, right. A " Dora Darling." We recommend it to the young folk. Lizzie Lorton, of Greyrigg. By E. Lynn Linton. 1 vol., careful study of this book, and an honest application of its principles, would do much to elevate art criticism, 8 ro. New York: Harper & Brothers.—A reprint of a late which, both here and in England, is at a very low ebb. English novel. The story is one ofmore than usual power.

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 156

HEALTH

DEPARTMENT.

OUR NEW COOK- BOOK.

Madonna Mary. By Mrs. Oliphant. 1 vol., 8 vo. Neweggs. Eggs contain albumen, and in the yolk a large York: Harper & Brothers.-This, the last of Mrs. Oliphant's quantity of fat. They are highly nutricious and easily novels, is not quite so good as some others by her. Still it digested ; and common experience is correct in placing them in the front rank as articles for the morning meal. is very readable; much above average fiction. Skirmishing. By the author of " Who Breaks, Pays." Finally, unless warned by the system to the contrary, take 1 rol., 12 mo. New York: Leypoldt & Co.-A new edition in the morning tea or coffee. These are stimulants which of a very pleasant novel, which we noticed favorably when have all the beneficial effects belonging to articles of this class, with no unpleasaut reaction, As has been demonit first came out. strated again and again, by actual experiment, tea and coffee retard the waste ofthe tissues of the body. The next question is, " When to eat?" We have spoken IIE ALTII DEPARTMENT. ofthe breakfast. Men of active habits may eat three hearty HOW TO EAT AND WHEN.-A physician once said to us, meals daily, breakfast, dinner, and supper. But women, if "More Americans die of eating too much than too little. they eat three meals at all, should eat sparingly at supper. Indigestion is the disease of the country, and indigestion { Men of sedentary habits, especially in cities, need only two comes of overeating." The remark reminds us that a few meals ; say, a good breakfast and a late dinner. A cup of hints on eating may be welcome to the subscribers of tea in the evening will be necessary, afterward, to many ; "Peterson." but others will be better without it. Never go so long beThe first question to ask is, " What shall we eat?" Now tween meals, however, as to feel faint for want of food, as it is well known to physiologists that the system impera- some do who dine late. In this case take a light lunch. tively demands nitrogenized or albuminized substances, Never eat to repletion. It is better to eat oftener, and such as the gluten of vegetables, albumen, and lean meat; take less at a time. After a full meal, rest for awhile, if non-nitrogenized substances, such as starch, sugar, and fat; you can. Nothing is a more frequent cause of dyspepsia and inorganic saline matters, such as common salt, phos- than the practice of resuming work immediately after a phates, etc. Though the digestive system of man is inter- heavy dinner. mediate between that of the herbivora and the carnivora, it resembles the latter more than the former. Nevertheless, OUR NEW COOK - BOOK. a mixed diet is most favorable to healthy nutrition, and all recognize the necessity of considerable variety in such diet. Every receipt in this Cook-Book has been tested by a Moreover, starchy substances make a man fat, but albu- practical housekeeper. SOUPS. minized substances make him strong. We believe that meat should be taken at the morning! Soups and Bonilli.-Eight pounds of beef, ten carrots, meal. It may not be digested so quickly as some starchy eight turnips, eight onions, (all sliced ,) six cloves, one teasubstances; but, as a rule, it is digested easily, and it cer- spoonful of whole black pepper, some allspice, and two tainly satisfies the system, and carries us farther, in our quarts of cold water. Stew the whole together very gently work, than vegetables alone. In this particular, the habits for five hours. If you wish for rice or vermicelli, take a of American life are better than those of England, where large breakfastcup full of either, and swell it in half a pint meat is not generally taken at breakfast. But at this time of the liquor, in a small saucepan, which will take from an meat should be taken in a palatable and easily digestible hour to an hour and a half. Then take out the meat and form ; stewed, with the nutriment juices saved in the strain the soup, to which add the rice, etc., and boil for a sauces, and the aromatic principles developed by the heat ; quarter of an hour, gently shaking it to prevent burning. or, better than all, broiled, for here the juices are retained Add a good dessertspoonful of tomato catchup, or a whole in the tissues, and the flavor is developed by the hardening tomato quartered, with a pinch of Cayenne pepper. The and caramelization, as it were, ofthe exterior. Above all, meat serve up hot, with the vegetables as garnish. Slice avoid the abomination of frying fresh meat, not alone as a a small quantity of bread, very thin, into the tureen, and matter of taste, but as a violation of scientific laws. A pour the soup boiling hot upon it. fresh animal tissue, which has soaked up a mass of seething Another Plain Soup.-Get what is called a good beef-soup fat, is not in a proper condition to be taken into the system. bone, boil two hours, leaving about two quarts of broth ; Salted articles, which are generally so hardened that they break two eggs into some flour, and knead it very stiff; will not readily absorb the fat, as fish, and articles which roll out in three sheets to the thickness of wrapping-paper; are exposed for but a short time to the very high tempera- spread them on a table to dry for half an hour; then place ture to which all fried articles are subjected, may be cooked them on one another, and roll them up as you would jelly" in this way--but never good fresh meat. cake; with a sharp knife cut very fine strips from the end, Meat should by no means constitute the largest part of not wider than the thickness ofa case-knife ; shake them up a physiological breakfast. As this is very often the staple to separate them ; drop them into your broth, stirring your of the dinner, it is desirable to eat a considerable quantity soup all the while. Boil ten minutes ; season with pepper, of starchy and fatty matters in the morning. Bread, in its salt, celery, or a little parsley. Great care should be taken various forms, butter, and the inevitable potato, are im- to lay aside all bones from roast and boiled meat, poultry, portant aids to proper nutrition. The breads should be and game ; and all the odd piecos cut off from joints, spare thoroughly baked and light, for in this form the starch is pieces of vegetables, and even of bread, as all these will most easily acted upon by the digestive fluids, which do not form useful additions to the stock-pot, and greatly promote readily change raw starch into sugar, the form it must the making economical soups for family use. DESSERTS. take before it can be absorbed, and the light, porous character of good bread allows it to be easily infiltrated with Marmalade Pudding.-Take about half a teacupful of the saliva and the other juices. Bread, likewise, furnishes milk, one tablespoonful of fine flour, and about two ounces gluten, and is, ofitself, capable of supporting life when too of white sugar; put it on the fire, and stir till it boils; then much of this nitrogenized substance has been removed in add the yolks of four eggs, and one small pot of marmalade, making the fancy grades of flour. For the same reason the reserving most of the chips to line the mould ; mix all well together, then beat up the whites of five eggs, and stir starch in the potato should be thoroughly cooked. A considerable variety is demanded, not only by the taste, them lightly in. Butter a mould, and line it completely but actually by the nutrition. We may use all the differ- with orange chips ; put in the pudding, and steam it for ent meats, fresh and salt; poultry, fish of various kinds, and half an hour with fire under and over

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Pickelets. Take three pounds of flour, make a hole in Cabinet Puddings.- For a quart mould take a quarter of a pound of raisins, half a pound of currants, well dried, the middle with your hand. Mix two spoonsful of yeast two ounces of candied peel, about two ounces of butter, four with a little salt, and as much milk as will make the flour eggs, a little nutmeg, and about four drops of essence of into a light paste. Pour the milk with the yeast into the lemon, and a little sugar to snit the taste ; warm a little middle of the flour, and stir a little of the flour down into milk sufficiently to melt the butter. Butter the mould it; then let it stand all night, and the next morning work all the flour; beat it well for a quarter of an hour; let enough to make the raisins and peel stick, then put a layer of white bread, or cake ; shake a few raisins and currants it stand for an hour ; take it out with a large spoon, lay it over it, then a layer of bread and fruit, till the mould is in round cakes on a board well dusted with flour; dredge full. The other ingredients must be well mixed and beaten, flour over them, pat them with your hand, and bake them. Indian-Meal Doughnuts.- A teacupful and a half of boilthe bread must be well soaked before it is put into the pot. Place a sheet of writing-paper over the pudding, undering milk poured on two teacups of Indian-meal. When it the cloth, and boil it one hour For the sauce, a little is cool, add two teacups of wheat flour, one teacup of butmelted butter, sugar, and white-wine. ter, one and a half of sugar, one of yeast, and two eggs, Orange or Lemon Tarts are made with the outside peel with a tablespoonful of cinnamon, or a grated nutmeg. If grated fine, and mixed with the pulp of an apple which has not sufficiently stiff, add equal portions of wheat and Inbeen pared, cored, and cnt into pieces, and stewed with a dian-meal. Let it rise very light. Roll it about half an little bit of lemon-peel, and a very small quantity of water, inch thick, and cut it into small diamond-shaped cakes, and and a bit of cinnamon. When the apple is reduced to a boil them in lard. pulp, and put through a hair-sieve, it should be used cold Sponge Cake. Take the weight of the eggs in sugar, half for the tarts. It is sweetened with sugar, and a little nut- their weight in flour, well sifted ; to twelve eggs add the meg grated over it ; add some of the juice of either the grated rind of three lemons, and the juice of two. Beat orange or lemon, and let your tarts be baked in & quick the eggs carefully, white and yolks separately, before they oven, but not over browned. Apple-tarts are made the are used. Stir the ingredients thoroughly together, and same way, omitting orange or lemon flavor. bake in a quick oven. Lemon Puffs. Take a pound of finely-powdered loafGinger Cakes.- Mix one pound of flour and three-quarters sugar, and mix it with the juice of two lemons, beat the of a pound of loaf-sugar. Rub into it half a pound of butwhite of an egg to a complete froth, then add it to the ter, two eggs, well beaten, and one ounce of ginger, ground lemon and sugar, and beat the whole for half an hour, then fine. Beat all well together, roll out the dough to the well beat three more eggs, and grate the outside rind very third of an inch thick ; cut out the cakes, and bake them. Duke of Devonshire Cake.-One pound of flour, one pound fine from the peel of the two lemons you have employed the juice of; add this and the eggs to the previous mix- of currants, three-quarters of a pound ofsugar, halfa pound ture, and well mix the whole. Sprinkle some finely- of butter, half the peel of a lemon, half a pound of citron, powdered sugar on a sheet of writing-paper, and drop the whisk all together, with eight eggs ; add a little brandy; mixture upon it. A moderate oven will bake them in a bake in a slow oven, two hours and a half. few minutes. Lemon-Cakes.-Mix ten ounces of flour, five ounces of CAKES. butter, and five ounces of sugar. Beat in the yolk of an Queen-Cakes. Take one pound of flour, dry it thoroughly egg ; flavor with one small teaspoonful of essence of lemon, and reduce one pound of loaf-sugar to a very fine powder. or a little sherry. Divide into cakes, and bake them. Work one pound of butter to a cream, and mix it with the WARDROBE. pound ofsugar. Beat the whites of eight eggs for nearly To Clean Kid Gloves.- Make a strong lather with curdhaif an hour, and beat them into the butter and sugar ; then beat the yolks for nearly half an hour, and beat them soap and warm water, in which steep a small piece of new also into the butter, sugar, etc. Beat all well together, flannel. Place the gloves on a flat, clean, and unyieldand then beat in the pound of flour, half a pound of cur- ing surface-such as the bottom of a dish-and having rants, (washed, picked, and dried, ) a grated nutmeg, and thoroughly soaped the flannel, (when squeezed from the the same quantity of cinnamon, and of mace also, if the lather,) rub the kid till all dirt be removed, cleaning and flavor be liked, all in fine powder. Then divide the batter resoaping the flannel from time to time. Care must be into little tins of a pretty shape ; dust a little sugar over taken to omit no part of the glove, by turning the fingers, them, and bake them. etc. Blow the gloves out with your mouth or a pair of Sponge-Biscuits.-Beat the yolks of twelve eggs for half bellows. Dry them gradually in the sun, or before a gentle fire. When quite dry, pulling them well out will restore an hour, and beat in one and a half pound of sugar, very finely sifted. Beat it well until it rises in bubbles. Beat them to their proper color. Gum-Arabic Starch.-Get two ounces of fine white gumthe whites to a strong froth ; continue to beat them, adding them to the yolks and sugar, and add, by degrees, fourteen arabic, and pound it to powder. Next put it into a pitcher, ounces of flour ; grate in the rinds of two lemons; put them and pour on it a pint or more of boiling water, (according in long, tin moulds, buttered, and bake them. Just before to the degree of strength you desire;) and then, having putting them into the oven, dust sugar over them. They covered it, let it set all night. In the morning pour it will require a moderately hot oven, and will take half an carefully from the dregs into a clean bottle, cork it, and keep it for use. A tablespoonful of gum-water stirred into hour to bake. Buns.-A pint of warm milk to a teacupful of barm, a pint of starch, that has been made in the usual manner, mixed with a sufficient quantity of flour to make it a thick will give to lawns (either white or printed) a look of newbatter; set it to rise for half an hour, then add to it one ness to which nothing else can restore them after washing. egg, quarter of a pound of melted butter, a quarter of a It is also good, much diluted, for thin white muslin and pound of powdered sugar, and a few caraway-seeds, add a bobbinet. To Remove Mildew from Linen.- To every four ounces of few currants, and divide the dough into buns of good size. chloride of lime add two quarts of boiling water, and when Bake them twenty minutes. Rock- Cikes.-Mix together one pound of flour, half a it has dissolved, six quarts of cold water. Steep the linen pound of sugar, half a pound of butter, half a pound of in the mixture for twelve hours, and the mildew will discurrants or cherries, and four eggs, leaving out the whites appear. To Remove Ironmould .-Rub the mark with tartaric acid, of two; a little wine and candied lemon-peel are a great and wash afterward in pearlash and soap. improvement.

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 158

HORTICULTURAL - FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY. To Keep away Moth.- Put the end of a tallow-candle in FIG. 1.- WALKING SUIT OF SILVER GRAY POPLIN.--The skirt some part of the drawer, and the moths will keep away. peppercorns or To Preserve Furs.- Wrap some cloves is looped over a petticoat of the same. The basque fits the with them, and keep in a dry place. figure closely. The trimmings are purple silk, edged with black and white cord. The bonnet is plush. FIG. II. EVENING DRESS OF PIN SILK, trimmed around the bottom with a box-pleated ruffle of the same. An emURAL HORTICULT . broidered muslin skirt descends to the top of the rufile. FUCHSIAS OUGHT NEVER to stay in-doors after their leaves Peplum of pink silk, trimmed with a narrow white lace. fade. Their wood ripens so in the open air, and a nice long { High-necked waist of muslin. FIG. III.- DINNER DRESS OF WHITE SILK.-The back widths rest is as necessary to them as our nightly sleep is to us. It is a good thing to plunge the pots under a shed, and are longer than those in the rest of the skirt. The trimthen cover the plants over with moss, or any stuff that mings are of silk, edged with blonde. FIG. IV.- CARRIAGE DRESS OF LIGHT BROWY SILK.- The will retain just a little moisture ; too much damp will be injurious, for the frost will take effect on them. skirt is gored; two tabs of the silk are finished at the Scarlet geraniums everybody knows how to manage, edges by black velvet ribbon, being covered with Cluny everybody has a plan of their own for, and yet everybody lace. These descend within six inches of the edge, and asks questions, just as winter comes in, as to the best mode are then finished by a box-pleating, which covers the front of protecting their geraniums. We have tried some half- width only. The basque is cut square, a trifle longer in dozen different ways with differently grown plants, and the back. The bonnet is white, trimmed with black lace. GENERAL REMARKS.-At this season of the year we have found all answer, so we cannot decide on the " best." They have been kept in a hay-loft all the winter, after having no new styles to chronicle. SHORT DRESSES are indispensable for the street, for both taken off their leaves and the tips of their shoots- their fresh green, succulent tips. We have packed some in a box comfort and fashion dictate it. The long, gored dresses with earth over their roots, and we have kept them out all are as indispensable in the house. For evening wear, pepthe winter (hardy, old woody kinds-more like small shrubs lums are popular, either over silk or thin dresses. The than geranium plants) in a very sheltered garden, by French Empress has quite established the brocaded silks covering them with coal-ashes and dry fern-leaves, or hay- in public favor. These probably cost more at first than a bands well twisted round them. plain silk ; but as they cannot possibly be trimmed much, The chrysanthemum is a plant that will stand winter and look well, they will be quite as economical in the end. FEATHER TRIMMINGS of all descriptions are worn. Evening treatment beautifully. We had a fine double row of them once, on each side of a long and not very sheltered walk. dresses are trimmed with marabout tufts and fringes, or They were covered up with coal-ashes and brush after they with bands of short, glossy white feathers, laid on flat; had done blooming, and their points had been taken off. and velvet cloaks and paletots are ornamented with peaPruning them makes them grow bushy, though it does not cock, pheasant, and other feathers. This is a beautiful increase their bloom ; but when grown in pots, repeated style of trimming, but it is not at all desirable. Cashmere, shiftings will add to their blossoms, and make them sturdy studded with beads, is still popular. It is used not only in and bushy as well. We have seen our garden chrysanthe- black, for ladies' wear, and in bright colors, for children, mums in full beauty when the ground was white with for paletots, etc., for the street, but is very fashionable for snow; the fall was but slight, of course, otherwise it would small sacques and jackets for in-door wear. A half worn have destroyed the flowers. They used to look very bright { skirt, with one of these jackets, is equal to a new dress. CLOAKS AND PALETOTS are of all varieties- no one style and charming contrasted with the white snow- they must have been hardy kinds. We have since kept some of the can be said to be the fashion. BONNETS are in as many styles as out-of-door wraps. We rarer sorts in winter by plunging the pots over their heads in coal-ashes, and covering the stems with fern-leaves. have had mysterious hints for a long while of a change in They may be put in a pit, cold frame, hay-loft-anywhere. our head-dresses; but nothing marked has, as yet, taken place; but we are threatened with something enormous www when it does come. THE HAIR is still worn high at the back,and rather close MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. to the head in front. A few thin, light curls add very much To Restore Linen that has long been Stained.- Rub the to this style of dressing the hair. stains on each side with wet, brown soap. Mix some ORNAMENTS of dead-colored gold, cameos, and enamels, • starch to a thick paste with cold water, and spread it over are most popular. Insects in gold, enamels, and precious the soaped places. Then expose the linen to the sun and stones, are still fashionable. air; and, if the stains have not disappeared in three or four days, rub off the mixture, and repeat the process with fresh CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. soap and starch. Afterward dry it, wet it with cold water, and put it in the wash. FIG. 1.- KNICKERBOCKER PANTS AND JACKET OF PLUMPires in Chimneys.-Fires in chimneys, in France, have COLORED CLOTH, FOR A BOY. - Black glazed sailor hat. FIG. II.- DRESS OF WHITE CASHMERE, FOR A ITTLE GIRL been prevented by placing three frames of wire-work, one foot above each other, near the lower mouth of the chim- OF SIX YEARS OF AGE, trimmed with rouleux and rosettes ney; no flame will pass through them, and, consequently, of blue silk. The braces with long ends, and the band, are no fire can happen ; while the draught of the chimney will also of blue. not be impaired.' FIG. III.- GRAY POPLIN DRESS WITH A PEPLUM BASQUE, FOR To Remove Sains from the Ivory Handles of Knives.- Dip A YOUNG GIRL.-The dress and basque are trimmed with a piece ofwhite rag into muriatic acid, and rub the stains ; cross-bands of green and white silk. FIG. IV. CRIMSON CASHMERE SACQUE DRESS, trimmed with they will then disappear. The handles should never be wetted with water, as it stains and turns them yellow. black velvet, and cut square in front, for a child. Rust on Dinner-Knives.-Cover the steel with sweet-oil, FIG. V.- PANTS AND OPEN JACKET OF BROWN VELVETEEN, well rubbing it on. Let it remain forty-eight hours, and OVER A TIGHT JACKET OF BLUE VELVET.- Black velvet legthen, using unelacked Hime, finely powdered, rub the knifegins. A gay scarf is wound around the waist, as well as until all the rust has disappeared. around the brown velvet cap.

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 evil influence at work; and he told his acolytes to make a fire in the temple-court, and to burn the robe.

So they made a fire, into which the robe was thrown. But as the silk began to burn, there suddenly appeared upon it dazzling characters of flame,—the characters of the invocation, Namu myō hō rengé kyō;—and these, one by one, leaped like great sparks to the temple roof; and the temple took fire.

Embers from the burning temple presently dropped upon neighbouring roofs; and the whole street was soon ablaze. Then a sea-wind, rising, blew destruction into further streets; and the conflagration spread from street to street, and from district into district, till nearly the whole of the city was consumed. And this calamity, which occurred upon the eighteenth day of the first month of the first year of Meiréki (1655), is still remembered in Tōkyō as the Furisodé-Kwaji,—the Great Fire of the Long-sleeved Robe.

According to a story-book called Kibun-Daijin, the name of the girl who caused the robe to be made was O-Samé; and she was the daughter of Hikoyémon, a wine-merchant of Hyakushō-machi,


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 Engraved & Printed by ilman Brother

Painted by H. Krotzschmer

MAKING

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LES

MODES

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PETERSON'S MAGAZINE.

MARCH, 1867.

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 Peterson's

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March,

1867.

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710] the late king. Immediately a revolution broke out, for the nobles refused to acknowledge the new king. They produced a frightful state of confusion, but did not at first succeed in deposing him. Finally, the ringleaders met in council in the spring of 710, and elected Roderick (Ruderico), duke of Baetica. Soon afterwards, Roderick defeated the army of Achila, who, together with his uncle and brothers, fled to Africa, leaving the duke of Baetica in possession of the throne.

The reign of Roderick — the title of Don assigned to him by the later chroniclers is a pure anachronism — is still more legendary than that of Witiza, and partly from the same cause — the false reports spread by political enemies, who were afterwards to be the victors, and partly the Moorish invasion and the fall of the Visigothic kingdom. The last king of the Visigoths is enveloped in legends from his first action as a king (the legend of the Tower of Hercules) until after his death (the legend of the Penance). The most important of all is that known as the legend of Florinda, or La Cava (the harlot), which thoroughly explains the invasion of the Muslims and the cause of their expedition to Spain, which resulted in the destruction of the Visigothic kingdom. We therefore have the story in two forms.

1. The connivance of Julian — whoever he may have been — with the Muslims, in order to effect the conquest of Spain; Julian being actuated by purely political motives, and his daughter having no connexion with the matter.

2. The explanation of Julian's connivance with the Arabs by the insult which he had sustained at the hand of Roderick.

The first Christian writer who mentions the count, and calls him Don Julian — the Don, as in the case of Roderick, is an anachronism — is the monk of Silos, who wrote at the beginning of the twelfth century. In our days it is generally admitted that this individual was called (not Julian but) Urban or Olban, and this opinion is supported by the reading of the most ancient text of the anonymous Latin chronicler, and by the Arab historians Tailhan and Codera. There is considerable difference of opinion as to who this Urban was. Some think that he was a Visigoth, others a Byzantine, but all are agreed that he was governor of Ceuta. Neither of these hypotheses can be maintained, because there is no certain evidence that Ceuta then belonged to the Byzantine Empire — still less to the Visigothic kings. Nor can the title rum given to Urban by the Arab chroniclers, which might mean a Gothic or Byzantine Christian, be taken in a definite sense. On the other hand, the anonymous Latin chronicler, as also Ibn Khaldūn and Ahmed Anasirí Asalauí, state that Urban "belonged to the land of Africa," to the Berber tribe of the Gomera, that he was a Christian and lord or petty king of Ceuta. Whoever he was, the monk of Silos is the first of the Spanish chroniclers to mention him, and to represent him as taking any part in the conquest of Spain; according to the earlier chroniclers, the


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 THE EAGLE'S NEST.

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 BUGLE TRIMMING

NEW STYLE DRESS.

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 in the district of Azabu. Because of her beauty she was also called Azabu-Komachi, or the Komachi of Azabu. The same book says that the temple of the tradition was a Nichiren temple called Honmyōji, in the district of Hongo; and that the crest upon the robe was a kikyō-flower. But there are many different versions of the story; and I distrust the Kibun-Daijin because it asserts that the beautiful samurai was not really a man, but a transformed dragon, or water-serpent, that used to inhabit the lake at Uyéno,—Shinobazu-no-Iké.


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BUGLE TRIMMING.

WALKING DRESS.

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 NAME FOR MARKING

TOHO

NEW STYLE DRESS.

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 INITIALS FOR MARKING.

NEW STYLE DRESS.

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 BONNET.

BONNET.

INFANT'S NIGHT-DRESS OF NANSOOK.

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 BODICE.

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 OVER

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A BALLAD. ARRANGED FOR THE GUITAR BY ALICE HAWTHORNE

Published by permission of SEP. WINNER & Co., proprietors of Copyright.

GUITAR.

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 DRAWERS FOR LITTLE BOY.

GENTLEMAN'S CRAVAT.

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CHEMISE.

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182 admitted his son Witiza to a share of the government, entrusting to him the north-west, of which the capital was Tuy; he also stamped the effigy and name of Witiza, together with his own, on the money which was coined. Witiza was therefore allowed to succeed his father without opposition (701). The reigns of Witiza and the two following kings are very obscure. We have but scanty information, and that distorted with legends and partisan inventions. Thus, Witiza has been represented as the wickedest of kings and as a man addicted to every vice. From the testimony of the anonymous chronicler of the eighth century and of the Arab historians from the ninth century onwards, it appears that he was the exact opposite. A critical examination of the sources shews that he was an energetic and benevolent king.

Witiza began by proclaiming an amnesty, which included the nobles who had been condemned by Egica. This produced an excellent effect, but did not suffice to prevent a fresh rebellion, when Witiza, following the example of his father, admitted his son Achila or Agila to a share in the government, entrusting to him the provinces of Narbonne and Tarragona under the charge of a noble, probably called Rechsind, who may have been a relative. We do not exactly know why this policy did not succeed. The chroniclers tell us little, till we come to Lucas of Tuy, who wrote in the thirteenth century, and is the first to allude to it. But we know that conspiracies were formed, that Witiza was obliged to dissolve some meeting or Council, whose attitude had given cause for uneasiness; that, according to the evidence of the anonymous Latin chronicler, he quarrelled with Bishop Sindered, a man of exceptional piety, and lastly, that he punished some conspirators, amongst others Theodofred, duke of Cordova, whom he blinded, and Pelagius, another noble, whom he banished. This Pelagius, mentioned in the chronicle of Albelda — of the ninth century — is possibly the son of Fafila, or Fairla, duke of Cantabria — who had been banished from court during the reign of Egica, and who was slain by Witiza himself when governor of the north-west provinces — and therefore most likely Pelagius of Covadonga, who would naturally be opposed to Witiza as the murderer of his father. Witiza managed to escape all these dangers and died a natural death in Toledo at the end of 708 or beginning of 709. Archbishop Roderick, a chronicler of the twelfth century, is the first to relate the legend that Witiza was deposed and blinded. Shortly before his death, the Muslims again invaded the Spanish coast, and were driven back by him. According to Isidore of Pax Julia, Witiza also defeated the Byzantines, who during the reign of Egica had attempted to reconquer some of the cities of southern Spain. Witiza was succeeded by Achila; he, together with his two brothers, Olmund and Artavasdes, and his uncle, Bishop Oppas (the Don Oppas of the legend), were the males of the family of


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 LAMP- MAT

IN

CROCHET

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

THIS hardly requires any description. It is thought prettiest. Any lady, accustomed to to be done in two colors, whatever two may be crochet, can work it from the engraving.

PLAIT

228

FOR

NEEDLE - BOOK

COVER.

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 CROCHET

TRIMMING.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

ONE of those pretty crochet trimmings which § and which can be made at odd moments, when are always useful, which hardly ever wear out, a lady can do nothing else.

GOTHIC

ALPHABET

FOR

MARKING.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

надяна

鐵爐 職

танця

fghijk

tv

gxs

227

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 DESIGN IN APPLIQUE FOR SOFA- CUSHIONS. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

THIS, in cashmere, with the diamond in black or colored velvet, makes a very pretty cushion. The applique is first gummed to the groundwork, then sewn round with button-hole silk of

LADY'S

a contrasting color. The stars may be of gold cord, with the ball in the center sewn with black silk, and the smaller dots and stars on the diamonds are worked with bright-colored silks.

TOILET

SLIPPER.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER. THIS design is French, and something entirely new, and may be made either of black and white checked silk ; or the check can be done in cross-stitch upon canvas, either in zephyr or floss silk ; for use the zephyr will wear the best. Trim round the edge with black and white silk cord and black lace edging ; guipure is the most serviceable. The shoemaker will supply the wooden heel, which is to be covered with the checked material. 226

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 DOUBLE

CHIGNON

BY EMILY H. MAY.

WE give, above, an engraving of a very gravings, showing how it is to be made. fashionable Chignon, and below two other en- lady, we think, can make this Chignon.

Any

Sunilgge row od

Ballia otpicUNAL

ingiel

Enge

225

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SEE, rising out of darkness, a lotos in a vase. Most of the vase is invisible; but I know that it is of bronze, and that its glimpsing handles are bodies of dragons. Only the lotos is fully illuminated: three pure white flowers, and five great leaves of gold and green,—gold above, green on the upcurling under-surface,—an artificial lotos. It is bathed by a slanting stream of sunshine;—the darkness beneath and beyond is the dusk of a temple-chamber. I do not see the opening through which the radiance pours; but I am aware that it is a small window shaped in the outline-form of a temple-bell.

The reason that I see the lotos—one memory of my first visit to a Buddhist sanctuary—is that there has come to me an odor of incense. Often when I smell incense, this vision defines; and usually thereafter other sensations of my first day


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 in Japan revive in swift succession with almost painful acuteness.

It is almost ubiquitous,—this perfume of incense. It makes one element of the faint but complex and never-to-be-forgotten odor of the Far East. It haunts the dwelling-house not less than the temple,—the home of the peasant not less than the yashiki of the prince. Shintō shrines, indeed, are free from it;—incense being an abomination to the elder gods. But wherever Buddhism lives there is incense. In every house containing a Buddhist shrine or Buddhist tablets, incense is burned at certain times; and in even the rudest country solitudes you will find incense smouldering before wayside images,—little stone figures of Fudō, Jizō, or Kwannon. Many experiences of travel,—strange impressions of sound as well as of sight,—remain associated in my own memory with that fragrance:—vast silent shadowed avenues leading to weird old shrines;—mossed flights of worn steps ascending to temples that moulder above the clouds;—joyous tumult of festival nights;—sheeted funeral-trains gliding by in glimmer of lanterns;—murmur of household prayer in fisherman’s huts on far wild


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 coasts;—and visions of desolate little graves marked only by threads of blue smoke ascending,—graves of pet animals or birds remembered by simple hearts in the hour of prayer to Amida, the Lord of Immeasurable Light.

But the odor of which I speak is that of cheap incense only,—the incense in general use. There are many other kinds of incense; and the range of quality is amazing. A bundle of common incense-rods—(they are about as thick as an ordinary pencil-lead, and somewhat longer)—can be bought for a few sen; while a bundle of better quality, presenting to inexperienced eyes only some difference in color, may cost several yen, and be cheap at the price. Still costlier sorts of incense,—veritable luxuries,—take the form of lozenges, wafers, pastilles; and a small envelope of such material may be worth four or five pounds-sterling. But the commercial and industrial questions relating to Japanese incense represent the least interesting part of a remarkably curious subject.


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693-694] a conspiracy was discovered of which Sisebert, metropolitan of Toledo, was the leader. The aim of this conspiracy was to. slay the king, his sons, and five of the principal officials of the palace. The metropolitan was deprived of his see, excommunicated and sentenced to exile for life, with the confiscation of all his property.

It seems that, during the reign of Egica, there was another more serious conspiracy, directed, not against the king, but against the Visigothic nation. Egica himself denounced it in the royal tomus which he presented to the Seventeenth Council in 694, saying, with reference to the Jews, that, "by their own open confession, it was known, without any shadow of doubt, that the Hebrews in these parts had recently taken counsel with those who dwelt in lands beyond the sea (i.e. in Africa), that they might combine with them against the Christians"; and when accused, the same Jews confirmed before the Council the justice of the charge. What was the cause and what the aim of this conspiracy? The cause may very well have been the legislation recently made by Egica with regard to the Jews, which, though very favourable to the converts who made sincere profession of the Christian Faith — seeing that it exempted them from the general taxes (munera) and from the special payments made by Jews, allowed them to possess Christian slaves and property, and to trade — was unfavourable to the non-baptized and to those who observed the rites of the Jewish Faith, they being burdened with all the taxes from which the first were exempted. We do not exactly know the aim of the conspiracy, although the understanding with the Africans and what happened later in the reign of Roderick give us reason to believe that it was intended to help the Muslims to make another invasion. The Council, regarding the crime as proved, decreed in the eighth canon that all the Jews in the Peninsula should be reduced to slavery and their goods confiscated; it authorised the Christian slave-owners to whom they were consigned to take possession of their sons at the age of seven, and educate them in the Christian Faith, and eventually marry them to Catholics. This law was not enforced in Visigothic Gaul.

During the reign of Egica, the Visigothic code was revised for the last time (693-694). After the manner of his predecessors, Egica


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184 only people who helped, or rather were helped by, the Arabs, were the sons of Witiza, whom Roderick had deposed. Hence, the connexion between the person of Urban and the fall of the Visigothic State is now generally held by scholars to be a mere legend, perhaps derived from some Arab historian.

The second element of the legend, viz. the violation of the count's daughter, is even more doubtful. The offence committed by Roderick against the count is also, by some of the early chroniclers, attributed to Witiza, and the later chroniclers are not clear whether it was the daughter or the wife of Julian or Urban. Moreover, the monk of Silos is the first to relate this part of the legend; and the name of La Cava, by which the count's daughter is now generally known, appears for the first time in the fifteenth century, in the untrustworthy history of Pedro del Corral. Nevertheless, the more cautious of the modern critics do not consider the question as definitely settled.

A third explanation, intermediate between the two, has been set forth by Saavedra, the historian and Arabic scholar, and its main outlines are at present more or less generally accepted. He believes that, even granting that Roderick did commit this offence, it had no connexion with the help given by Julian to the Arabs. According to him, Julian was a Byzantine governor of Ceuta, and received assistance from Witiza in 708, when his city was attacked by the Muslims, and was therefore bound to the Visigothic king by ties of gratitude and possibly of self-interest. On the death of Witiza, when Julian was again attacked by the Arabs, he surrendered to them on condition that, during his lifetime, he might continue to hold the city of Ceuta under the supreme authority of the Caliph. When Achila was deposed by Roderick, he sought help from Julian, who helped him by making a preliminary expedition to Spain, which was not successful. Then the family of Witiza had recourse to the Muslim chiefs, who were more powerful than Julian, and after long negotiations, thanks to his intervention, they succeeded in obtaining the support of the Arab troops of Africa, and thus managed to defeat Roderick. This connexion between the Muslims and the sons of Witiza is confirmed by all the chroniclers, and forms a trustworthy starting-point for the history of the invasion. The final attack was preceded by two purely tentative expeditions, of which the first, that attributed to Julian, was made in 709, and the second, a year later, was controlled by an Arab chief called Tarif, who merely laid waste the country between Tarifa and Algeciras, and did not succeed in obtaining possession of any stronghold.

In 711, a large force of Muslim troops, commanded by Ṭāriḳ, the lieutenant of Mūsā, governor of Mauretania, who was accompanied by the count Julian or Urban of the legend, took the rock of Gibraltar, and the neighbouring cities of Carteya and Algeciras. When the enemy had thus secured places to which they could retreat, they advanced on


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711-712 ] Cordova, but were detained on the way by a regiment of the Visigothic army under the command of Bencius, a cousin of Roderick. Although the Arabs defeated Bencius, his resistance enabled the king himself to arrive on the field. At that time Roderick happened to be fighting in the north of Spain against the Franks and the Vascons, whom the partisans of Achila had incited to make a fresh attack. When the Visigothic king saw this new danger, he assembled a powerful army and marched against the invaders, who, according to some historians, also increased their forces to the number of 25,000 men. On 19 July 711, the armies met on the shores of Lake Janda, which lies between the city of Medina Sidonia and the town of Vejer de la Frontera in the province of Cadiz. The river Barbate flows into this lake, and as its Arabic name of Guadibeca was misunderstood by some of the chroniclers, there arose the mistaken belief that the battle was fought on the banks of the river Guadalete. The victory was won by the Arabs, owing to the treachery of part of the Visigothic army, which was won over by the partisans of Achila. Among the traitors, the chroniclers make special mention of Bishop Oppas and Sisebert, referring to the latter as a relation of Witiza. So the king could not prevent Ṭāriḳ from cutting off his retreat and dispersing his army. What became of King Roderick? The most common story in the chroniclers, both Arabic and Spanish, is merely that he disappeared, or that his end is unknown. Only a few state plainly that he perished in the battle of La Janda, and even these disagree as to the details of his death. Saavedra has thus reconstructed the history of Roderick after his defeat of La Janda. The Arabs advanced on Seville and, after another victory, they took Ecija, besieged Cordova, which held out for two months, and entered Toledo. King Roderick rallied his forces in Medina, and went to threaten the capital, which was occupied by Ṭāriḳ. The Arab general asked Mūsā for reinforcements; in 712 the latter came himself with a large army. After taking possession of Seville and other strongholds, he advanced on Mérida, the place which the Muslims had most reason to dread. He besieged this city, which held out for a year, and was finally taken by storm.

At this point, we notice an important change in the accounts given by the chroniclers. Hitherto the invaders had met with but little resistance, and a certain amount of sympathy on the part of the townspeople, who, in some cases, had opened the gates of their cities to the foe. The Arabs had only left small garrisons in the towns which they had conquered, entrusting the protection and government of these towns to the Jews, who naturally welcomed the victorious Arabs. But, after


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Rh ducal throne as peasants. In the year 1286 the ritual — markedly modernised and relaxed — was of the following nature:

For the installation of the duke the oldest member of a certain peasant family, the so-called duke-peasant, had to sit on the "prince's stone" which lies in the Zollfeld near Klagenfurt. The new duke, in a coarse peasant's dress with a staff in his hand and leading a bull and a mare, is conducted by four nobles before the carelessly seated peasant, who has to question those nobles in the Slovene tongue and to find out who the man is, whether he is a just judge, mindful of the country's well-being, of free standing and full of zeal for the Christian faith. This they must swear to. Thereupon the peasant says: "By what right shall he remove me from this my seat?" They answer: "With 60 pfennigs, these two brindled beasts, and the peasant dress which he is wearing; he will also make thy house tax-free." Thereupon the peasant gives the duke a light cuff on the cheek, bids him be a good judge, vacates the seat for him, and takes the beasts. The duke takes his seat upon the stone and swings his drawn sword in all directions. He also takes a drink of fresh water.

The successful revolt of these Slovenes from the Avars took place, as we shall see presently, about 603. The first prince of the Carinthians whose name is known was Walluc (after 641), dux in Marca Vinedorum, independent of the Avars as well as of the Bavarians and Lombards. About the year 745 the Avars attempted to subjugate the Carinthians afresh, and their duke, Borut, sought help from the Bavarians. These indeed drove off the Avars but made the Carinthians dependent on the Frankish king, under native princes, of whom the last mentioned is Woinimir in 796; and Arnulf (emperor 896), if not the first, was one of the first German princes who as duke of Carinthia submitted (in 880) to the peasant ceremony.

The peasant revolt was not limited to Carinthia, rather it embraced a great part of the Avar Slavdom from the Alps to the Erzgebirge and the Vistula, for the Bohemian dynasty of the Přemyslids and the Polish dynasty of the Paists were of peasant origin. The Přemyslids were always conscious of this, and Lutold (died 1112), vassal prince of Znaim (Slav. Znoyem), had the chapel which he built there decorated with frescoes which still remain, among them the scene of the election of his ancestor with the hazel-stick, the bast-bag, and bast-shoes. Pulkava, court-chronicler to the Emperor Charles IV, king of Bohemia (1346-1378), states that Přemysl's bast-shoes and bast-bag were "to this day" carefully preserved. "And on the day of the coronation of the Bohemian king, the canons and prelates in procession receive the king that is to be and shew him the bast-shoes and lay the bast-bag on his shoulders so that he may be mindful that he sprang from poverty and may not be presumptuous." This is a poor survival of a more ample ritual which, unlike the Carinthian, had lost all its original


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 in the church at Edensor at the funeral of Lord Frederick Cavendish, May 11, 1882. Tr. as:—

1. O! Let him whose sorrow. A very good translation from Bunsen's text, by Miss Cox, in her ''Sacred Hys. from the German, 1841, p. 181 (H. from the Ger., 1864, p. 189), included in Alford's Ps. & Hys.'', 1844, and others. Since its reception into H. A. & M, 1861 {unaltered save st. vii. and the change to the plural), it has attained a wide popularity, and is fonnd im many English aud American collections. In the Unitarian fys. for the Ch. of Christ, Boston, U.S. 1853, the Hymnary, 1872, and others, it begins with st. ii,, "Where the mourner weeping," and in C. H. Bateman's Sacred Dfelodies, 1872, with st. iii, "God will never leave thee." In Dale's Haglish Hf. Bk, 1874 (iu order to make up 4 double st.) four lines, beginning "On Thy truth relying," were added from J. Montgomery's "In the hour of trial" (p. 666, fi}, This form is also in J. L. Porter's Coil., 1876, and Horder's Cong. Hys., 1884,.

Another tr, is: " When in thine hours of grief," by Lady #. Fortescue, 1843, p, TL. .

Otfrid of Weissenburg, was b. about the beginning of the 9th cent., according to zome in Franconia, according to others near tho Lake of Constanz. After receiving the elements of his education in the Benedictine monastery of Weiesenburg in Alsace, he went, about 830, to the cathedral school nt Conatanz, He afterwords studied at the school of the monnastery of Fulda, where, under the care of Rabanus Maurug, he learned to love his mother tonguc, In 846 he left Fulda, and, ofter a short stay at St. Gall, settled as a monk and priest at Weisseuburg, where he became Tead of the monastic school. Here he wrote aud completed about 865 a German

tical Life of cur Lord (or Harmony of the Boaeck), or Evangelienluch, in 5 books of 15,000 lines (first printed at Basel in 1571; recent eds. by E. G. Graff, 1831; J. Kelle, 1856; P. Piper, 1878; O. Erdmann, 1882; tra. into modern German by G. Rapp, 1858, F. Rechenberg, 1862, J. Kelle, 1870, &e.), a moat interesting work philologically,and the earlieat example of a long German pocm in rhyme. (Allg. Deutsche Biog. xxiv. 529; Geedeke's Grundriss, vol. i, 1884, p. 22, dic.) Bosides this he wrote a number of rhymed prayera in German. Two which have been aserihed to him, and have been tr. by Miss Winkworth, are noted onder their first lines, see Do himliese trohtin (p. 815, i.), and Got, thir elgonhat int (p. 448, 2). They are in bis manner, but appear to be of later date. Miss Winkworth aleo gives,a tr. of a section of the EvangeHenbuch, which begina thus;—

Minot wnsih thimu firt. This is chapter xviii. of Book i,, and is on the Xpiphany, It is in Wackernagel's Deutsche Kirchentied, ti. p. 8, in 23 st. of 4 L; in Erdmenn's ed. of the Evangetienbuck, 1882, p, 47, ko. Erdinann, in his notes at p. 370, speaks of this chapter as the ''firet detailed mystical explanation [of the Return of the Magi to thelr own land]. The removing Of the Magi from their home and thelr home-golng by another way reminds ce of our Home, the glorious Paradise {lines 1-10); we bare lost it by pride, self-wilt and

isobedience, and aojourn in sorrowful banishment 11-39). In order te reach Home again, we must follow

Tew wey of purity, bnmility, love and self-denial

—48)," unly (r. is Now warneth ne the Wiss

'31Sens fare." By Misr Winkworth, 1869,p.17. £3. M.] |

OUR FATHER, THRONED

O38 yap Préras Toby tapdrrovras. St. Andrew, of Crete. [In Temptation] The title given by Dr. Neale to his é. in his Hymns of the Eastern Church is "Stichera for the Second Week of the Great Fast." After the most careful research nothing corresponding to these Stickera can be found in any editions of the Oetoechue which have come under our votice; and the Rey. 8. G. Hatherly, in the 4th ed. of Dr. Nesle's Hys. of the Enuatern Church, 1882, says, "'These Btichera sre not in use in the Church Service." Dr. Neale's ir, "Christian! dost thou see them?" appesred in his Hys. of the #. C., 1862, in 4 st. of 81, and was firet pub. for congregations] use in the Parich H. Bh., 1863. From that date it rapidly grew into favour, until few editors think it wise to countenance its omission from: their collections. Some hynmals, including the Sarum, the 8. P. C.K. Ps. & Hys., and their Church Hymns, have altered texts, but ZF. A. & M. in Neale's original tr, (J. J.J

Ourblest Redeomer, ore He breathed. Harriet Auber. (Whitsuntide.] 1st pub. in her Spirit of the Pealms, 1829, p, 147, in 7 st. of 41,03 one of two bymns for * Whit-Sunday." It was some time before it came into common use, but when onee bronght before the notice of hymnal compilers, it specdily attained to great popularity, It is in common use in all Eneglish-speakiny conntriea, and hag been translated into severe! Janguages, 'The text asin H. A. & M. rendered into Latin by . &. Calverley, was given in Biggs's annotated ed. of H. A, & M. as "Qni Pretium nostrae Vitam dedit; ante Snprenum." In most hymmels it is given in an abbreviated form, and sometimes with a doxology (net in the original), os in Thring's Coll, 1882. Orig. Text in Hy. ws St. L, iL, ivy Vy Vig vii., with 1. 4, st. vil, changed from " And worthier Thee." The omitted st, tii. is:—

" He came in tongues of living flame com » subdue, All powerful as the wind He came As viewless too,"

In Spurgeon's O. 0. H. Bk, 1866, and some American collections, the text is tortured into c. M. 5]

Our eyes, great God, have seen Thy grace. J. Merrick. [Ps, tazav.] ist pub. in his Psalms Translated or Paraphrased in English Verse, 1765; aud, again, in the same work, with each phrase divided into atanzas for parochial use, by the Rev. W. D. Tatteraall, 1797. In Collyer's Coll., 1812, six stanzas were given as " Arise, great God, and let Thy grace." This was repeated in later hymn- and sometimes as, "Arise, O God, and let Thy grace." [s. J]

Our Father, throned in heaven, Thy name be praised. Bp. T, Ken. [The Lords Prayer.) Serer in his posthumous Hys. for olf thé Festivals of the Year, 1721; and, again, in the same, pub. by Pickering in 1868, ea Bp. Ken's Christian Year, &o., p. 284. It forms a part of the poem for the 15th 8. after Trinity, which is based upon St. Matt. vi, the chapter from which the Gospel of the day is taken. Although not in C. U. itis very concise and musical, aml is worthy of ara


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450 significance, for it did not originate in Prague but was transferred there after the union of the State of the Lemusi with that of the Chekhs of Central Bohemia. And it was disagreeable to the later Přemyslids. King Wenzel I (1230-1253), who was German in feeling, was ashamed of his origin, causing his peasant kinsmen to be driven from Staditzi and giving the village to the Germans. But he does not seem to have touched the bast relics; the kinsmen appear to have recovered their heritage, for in the year 1359 the Emperor Charles IV, as king of Bohemia, declared to the sons of Radosta, co-heirs of Staditzi, that they and their forefathers had always been free heirs of their tax-free estates; but as these had not long since been illegally given away and burdened with taxation by his father, the blind King John (who fell at Crécy, 1346), Charles IV now restores their rights, but retains as crown-land the field which Přemysl had once tilled single-handed (it is to this day called the "king's field") and charges the petitioners with the care of Přemysl's hazel stock, all the nuts from which they have to present yearly at the royal table as a memorial of an event so remarkable.

The peasant origin of the Přemyslids and the Piasts cannot be an invention of the chroniclers. No high-born dynasty would believe such a story, rather it would make short work of such blasphemy against its kingly majesty. The chroniclers merely decked the fact out with the fruits of their reading in ancient classics, and the Church interpreted it in the sense of Christian humility.

The peasant prince, Přemysl, was not prince of the whole of Bohemia — which even much later consisted of several little States — but originally only of the little people of the Lemusi round Bilin in North-West Bohemia, in immediate proximity to the Sorb clan Glomachi (German Daleminzen) in the modern kingdom of Saxony. These Glomachi like the Lower Styrians remained under župans, but their social organisation was more complicated. Under German domination they fell into the three classes: (1) Supani (Lat. seniores, German eldesten), (2) Withasii (Slav, vićazi) in equis servientes (servants on horseback, esquires), and (3) the Smurdi, correctly smrdi, that is the "stinkers," the common peasant-folk. In addition, there were corresponding to the German occupation members of German nationality: (4) the Censuales (German lazze), and (5) the Proprii (heyen). The three Slav classes were under the special jurisdiction of župans with Slavonic as official language. The Daleminzian župans and smurdi corresponded to the two Lower Styrian classes, the župans as former domini (seniores) of Avaro-Bulgar origin; they were likewise very numerous but their percentage cannot now be ascertained. On the other hand, the Withasii were of Germanic Norse origin. The Vikings somewhere in Russia must have subjected the forefathers of the Glomachi, and been transplanted with them by the Avars after the year 563 to serve as a barrier against the Franks on


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 KNITTED CHILD'S SOCK. 7 BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS.-Eight skeins of Berlin wool ; five knitting-needles. Begin from the bottom of the sole, and work in rows backward and forward. Cast on 22 stitches, wool forward at the beginning of the first six rows. Now work twelve rows plain, increasing a stitch at the end of every other row. The increased stitches must be all at one end to form the point of the toe. Work 12 stitches at the toe part off on another needle, and knit twelve rows without increasing or decreasing. Next work, by picking up the stitches across the upper part of the front to form the instep, ten rows, taking with each row a stitch off the side needle, and knitting the two stitches as one. Join the remaining 12 side stitches with the 12 middle stitches upon the needle. Cast on from the opposite side of the sole 12 fresh stitches, and work with these 36 stitches the upper part-the sock--of the little shoe ; six rows in the round plain. 7th row: Wool forward, and knit two together to form the holes. Five rows more plain knitting.

Eight rows, alternately, one row plain and one row purled. With another twelve rows the upper open

stripe is made by alternately putting the wool round and knitting two together, then knitting the next row quite plain. These two rows are repeated five times, so that there are six lines of holes. Knit then two plain rows for the upper conclusion, and cast off. For the second half of the under shoe part, at the twelve front, take up the stitches upon the second needle, also the side loops of the middle part, and the loops of the 12 stitches lately cast on, lying underneath, and with these 34 stitches knit nine rows, in which the decreasing must correspond with the increasing at the beginning of the work, so that the shape may be the same as the finished under part ; and after working nine rows there will be 22 stitches to cast off. The two parts must be sewn together, stitch upon stitch, and the 28 middle stitches of the front edge must be so drawn together as to form a pretty point. A narrow ribbon must be drawn through to fasten round the leg, as represented in the design. 229

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 of Toplady's Hymns, &c, p. 140. In the older collections it whs in most extensive use, both in the Ch. of England and with mauy of the Nonconformist bodies, but it is now very KcniTally omit led from modem collections in (t. Brit., although in America it still holds a prominent position.

A few more years shall roll. H.Bmar. [0. and N. Year,"] Written about the year 1812, and first printed on a fly-loaf for use by the niL'inbra of his congregation on a Now Year's Day. In 1844 it was pub. in No. 2 of bia Sang* for the WHdemc**, again in the lat series of Jig*, of Faith and hope, 1857, p. 101; and Inter cds. It is in 6 st. of 8 1., B.H., and entitled, "A Pilgrim's Song." Its use in all English-speaking countrios, either in its full, or in nu abbreviated form, is very extensive. In some cosesits exquisite refrain, with its delienlo changes: —

"T]jcii, tiny Lord, prqwe My soul for that great day; O wnsli mo in Thy prcck™ blood, And likt my slna an'&y,"

is omitted, nud it is thereby robliod of one of its most beautiful and striking features.

A form of words though e'er so sound. J. Hart, [Kingdom of God in I'oicer.] 1st pub. in bis lhjmns composed on Variou* SuJgects, 1750, No, 90, in 8 st of 4 1. and based on i. Cor. iv. 20. " For tbo kingdom of God is not in word, but in power."

In 1780, with slight alterations and the omission of st. vi. and vii.and the transposition of iv. and v. it was given in the Lady II. Coll. No. 05, and from thenoo has passed into a Hunted number of ultro-Calvimetio hymnals,

A fountain of Life and of Grace. C. Wesley, [Living Water.'] let pub. in his Slvrrt Hymn*, 17t12, vol. ii., No. 806, in 2 st. of 8 1., and based on Bov. xjcii. 17, In,1780 it was inoludod in the Wee. II. Bk,, No. 77, and lias been repeated in later eds. P. Works, 1868-72, vol. xiii. p. 240. It has also passed into most of the collections of the Methodist bodies, and is also found in other hymnals in G. Itrit. and America.

A Friend there is; your voices join. J. Sinain, [Jesus the Friend,'] Appeared OS ouo of two hymns in Ins Experimental Essays on Divine Subjects, Lond. 1791, pp. 85-87, with the note "The two following pieces were occasioned by the death of an only son.'' The second piece is:—"When Jesus, both of God and Man," In 1792 he included the former in his Walworth Hys., in 10 st. of 4 1., and from thence it has passed into several collections, mainly those of the Baptists, but inoluding also other Nonconforming bodies and a limited number in the Cii. of England. In America it is almost unknown. Orig. text, Lyra Brit., 1867, pp, S37-S.

A fulness resides in Jesus our Head. J, Faweett [Fulness of Chritt], 1st pub, in his Hymns adapted to the Ciwumstances of Pub. Worship and Friv. Devotion, 1782, No. 96; in £ st. of 8 1. This was reprinted hi Eippou's Set., 1787, No. 150, and from thence passed into various eolloctions in G. Brit, and America. Orig. text in Bap. Ps. & Uys., 1858-80.

A glance from heaven, with sweet effect. J. Newton. [Lightning.] This hymn, dealing with the moral and spiritual thoughts suggested by " Lightning in tho night," appeared in the Gospel Magazine, April, 1775, in tbo Oliiey Hymns, 1779, Bit. ii., No. 84, in 7 st. of 4 1,, and later ods. It is No. 301 of Martinoau's lit/*., &c, 1840-1851, and 429 in J. H. Thorn's Hymns, 1858.

A glory in the word we find. [Holy Scriptures.] A cento given in J. Campbell'* Comprehensive H. Bk., Lond,, 1837, No. 837, in 4 st. of 4 1., from whence it has passed, unaltered, into a few Amcrioan hymnals. A part of this cento is from W. Hum's Coll., 3rd ed., 1833, No. 435. It is not in C. U. in G. Brit. [W. T. B.]

A good High Priest is come. J. Cennich. f Priesthood of Christ.] 1st pub. in Pt. iii. of his Sacred Ilymns for the Use of Religions Societies, Lon., 1744, No. exxi. in st. of 6 1,, pp. 196-198. In 1753 G. Whitoftold included b£ i. ir. v. vi. and is. in his (Ml. of Hye., No. xliv,, and it was retained in subsequent cds. This srrarigoment, with slight alterations, was ropub. in Rippon's Sel. 1787, No. 190, and later cds., and from thence lias passed into other collections in G. Brit, and America. In some works it is still further abbroWntcd. Orig. text in Lyra Brit,, 1867, p. 134.

A helm upon my brow I wear. S. J. Stone. [Christian jirmoMr.] Contributed to his poems, The Knightof Intercession,&o.,lS12, in 4 st. of 4 1., from whence it passed into P. J. Richardson's Lent Manual for Busy Feople, &a., 1884, p. 64. Also repeated in the author's Carmina Consecrata, 1884.

A little child the Saviour came. Robertson, [Holy Baptism.] Contributed fo the Scot. ICstab. Ch. Hymns for Pub. Worship, 1861, and repub. in their Scottish Hymnal, 1870,,No. 181, in 5 st. of 4 1. In the American collections it has attained to a more extensive use than in these in G. Brit., but in every case, as in Hatfield's Ch. H. Bk., 1872, the Hys.& Songs of Praise, 1874, the Fres.Hymiwd, Phil., 1874, and ethers, it is attributed in ei-ror to the elder W. Robertson, who was associated with the Scottish Trs, and Far. of 1745.

A little flock! So calls He thee. H. Bonar. [Church of Christ] A poem, in 13 st. of 4 1. on the Church as " The Little Flock." It appeared in the 1st series of his Hymns of Faith and Hope, 1857; and later ods. ta Kennedy, 1863, No. 1404, it is re-arranged in three parte: (1) "Church of the everlasting Goi";(2)«Alittlofloek! So calls He thee": (3) " A little flock! 'Tis well, 'tis well." In tho American Manual of Praise, 1880, there is a cento beginning with tho 1st stanza, and in the College and other hymn-books a second, as " Church of the Everiiving God,"

A little lamb went straying. A. Midlane. [Children's Hymn.] Written in Jan.,


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 EMERY

CUSHION ,

WITH

TATTING.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

HOITTIMA

1 72161 20 Tind 2017 4.07 07

MATERIALS. Blue sarsnet ; black sewingsilk; blue sarsnet ribbon ; emery. Cut out a cushion in linen the size shown in the design, fill it quite full with emery, then cover it with a cornflower-blue sarsnet ; sew at the back cornflower-blue ribbons at regular distances, according to the design, and tie them in a bow at the top. Then work for the center with black sewing-silk the little rosette in tatting as follows : -Five closed scallops or loops joining, consisting of thirty-four double stitches, of which two and two are separated by one picot, consequently there will be sixteen 230

picots ; the remainder consists of trefoils and picot rings. For each of the trefoils, work three scallops containing six double stitches and six picots, separated always by two double stitches. Each picot ring consists of nine picots separated by two double knots. The trefoils and rings are all joined together in the usual manner (see design. ) The connected edging, round the outer edge, consists of six double stitches and six picots, separated by two double stitches, then again six double stitches ; follow these directions untils enough is made for the outer edge.

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 BUGLE

FRINGE

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

THIS pretty and fashionable trimming may are required, together with a narrow silk be easily made by following the pattern. Two cord for the heading. No directions are resizes of jet beads, and two sizes of jet bugles ? quired.

CRAVAT

FOR

GENTLEMAN.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

IN the front of the number we give an engraving of a Cravat for a gentleman. The materials are a bit of cardboard, a small piece of narrow elastic, and silk or satin on the cross. To make this Cravat, cut a piece of card to the shape shown in the annexed cut, but larger ; cover it with silk on both sides, and sew on a loop of elastic for fixing on to the button of the collar of band of the shirt. Make card ; shape, and finish with a strap over the a neatly-shaped bow, and sewit upon the covered center of the bow.

BUGLE

TRIMMING

FOR

DRESSES.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER. In the front of the number we give two designs for these pretty trimmings, which, at the present time, happen to be the rage for trimming dresses. Procure a broad silk braid or www LADY'S

galloon, and upon it sew the bugles, as seen in the design ; and for a trifle these pretty trimmings can be made, which in the stores sell for a high price. wwwwwwwwwwww ..

TOILET

SLIPPER.

IN the front of the number we give a pat- give a diagram, by which the slipper may be tern, in colors, for a Lady's Slipper. We also cut out. We think it a very pretty affair. 231

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