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THE TOILET.

FASHIONS

the following lotion : Acetate of iron, ten grains ; tincture of nux vomica, two drachms; rose-water, six ounces. To be used night and morning. One more word as to dry scalps. If there be any feverish ness, and the skin of the head be hot and uncomfortable, a cooling lotion should be applied, and on no account should any stimulating lotions be used. The following is a capital cooling application : Solution of the acetate of ammonia, three ounces ; spirit of camphor, half a drachm ; spirit of sal volatile, half a drachm ; spirit of wine, one drachm ; and water six or eight ounces ; the scalp should be kept moist with this. Another point deserves notice. The too free use of stimulating washes to the scalp may actually produce a debilitated state of the hair follicles, and thus premature thinning by overtaxing their powers. The first effect in such cases may be to increase the growth of the hair for awhile. Nature responds to the increased demand made upon her-she always does when she cankeeping an extra stock of power on hand ready to meet an emergency, but she cannot always live at high pressure rate. It was never intended that she should ; if we persist in using her willingness too freely and injudiciously, a break-down always occurs. This is exactly the case with the hair. If we rouse the hair-forming apparatus, it will increase its work; but unless we are careful, we shall exhaust it in the end. The use of stimulants may seem, for the moment, to effect good, but in the end oftentimes, especially in debilitated subjects, produces a good deal of ill result. Hence, to treat all cases of loss or thinning of hair by local stimulation, is an error of philosophy. Get the general tone up, and we may then call upon the local { power to aid our endeavor and to further our wish.

FASHIONS FOR APRIL. FIG. 1 -WALKING DRESS OF BLACK SILK, over a dark-blue silk petticoat embroidered in black. Short black silk paletot, with long, loose sleeves. FIG. 1.- HOUSE DRESS OF GREEN-AND-WHITE STRIPED SILK, piped with white. FIG. III -WALKING DRESS OF RICE-COLORED POPLIN, over a blue poplin petticoat. Short black jacket and sailor hat. FIG. IV. WALKING DRESS OF MAIZE-COLORED LINEN, over a red silk petticoat. The sacque is rather deep, pointed at the sides; has a small pointed hood at the back, and is of the same material as the dress. FIG. V.- CARRIAGE DRESS AND PEPLUM SACQUE OF BROWN SILK, trimmed with heavy jet fringe. FIG. VI .- EVENING DRESS FOR A YOUNG LADY.-It is cut without a scam at the waist, is of pearl-colored silk, trimmed with pink silk, edged with a narrow jet gimp. The body is very low, with a low, white under body and sleeves. FIG. VII.- NEW STYLE OF BALL-DRESS FOR A YOUNG LADY.It consists of a pink silk under-dress, with a deep fluted ruffle, and a full tulle over-skirt, looped up with bands of pink ribbon, on which are placed wreaths of roses. The body is low and square, and has short, puffed sleeves. This style of dress has become very popular in Paris with ladies who dance, as it obviates all the difficulties of managing long trains. GENERAL REMARKS.- For the house, skirts are still made with very long trains and excessively gored ; no fullness is seen i front, or at the sides of the skirt: but either one very large plait, or three smaller ones, is placed at the back. WALKING DRESSES are made in the greatest variety of styles, and look very picturesque over bright-colored petticoats. Yet we think that the petticoat will disappear, and the short dress, just escaping the ground, take its place. To have a walking dress stylish, the jacket should always correspond in shape ; thus, if the skirt is cut in points, the jacket should be cut in points also; or if the

FOR APRIL.

dress is square, back and front, and looped up at the sides, the jacket should be square too. SHORT BALL-DRESSES, as will be seen in our illustration, are introduced for ladies who dance ; and though not as elegant as the long trains, they recommend themselves to all sensible people. WAISTS OF DRESSES are still made quite plain and short ; but the long, loose sleeve will be much worn during the coming warm weather. BROCADED SILKS are too heavy for spring and summer wear; but chene silks take their place. Nothing, however, can be prettier than the pretty little check silks, which have been worn for years; and they come in the most delicate and greatest variety of colors. THE MANTLES, SACQUES, ETC., which have appeared in such wonderful varieties during the winter, are still undecided as to style. Almost any pattern may be worn, and yet be in fashion. BONNETS are in almost as many styles as wraps, though the Marie Antoinette seems to be rather establishing itself; it has a very large, round crown, small, stiff cape, and a brim which slopes back from the ears. The " Chaperon" is almost like the Marie Antoinette, and is almost entirely composed of a large, flat crown, about an inch in depth, a wreath of flowers being placed on the front, and carried down the strings toward the chin, thus forming, as it were, a cap, and proving very becoming to the face; an extremely narrow curtain, slightly full, surmounting the chignon finishes this stylish bonnet, which has little or no brim. JACKETS are cut square in front instead of round, as formerly. Many are fastened down the front with bars of gimp or braid. Others are made without sleeves and are left open, so that the waistband and bodice are plainly visible. These small jackets are either made of the same material as the dress, or else of light-colored cashmere, embroidered with silk of various colors, or with gold. GLOVES, for evening wear, are now made with five battons ; indeed, the elegantes are wearing them as high as the elbow, in the style of our great-grandmothers. Fashion seems daily to return to the character of things worn during the First Empire. HEAD-DRESSES, also, frequently recall the portraits ofthe Empress Josephine. The hair is dressed very high at the back, and frequently very low on the forehead, with only a single rose, or an ornamental comb. Long plaits, with beads entwined round them, falling at each side of the face, are very much worn; they are convenient during damp weather, when curls generally cease to be curls at the close of an evening. Some ladies, who have hair of more than ordinary length, have hit upon a singular manner of displaying it ; instead of either plaiting or curling it, they wear it behind the ear, straight down each side, until it terminates below the waist, simply looping it across with strings of beads. Some ladies wear their chignons ridicu lously high, and of an exaggerated size, with two extravagantly long curls at the back in the place of ribbons. It is far better taste to accept the decrees of fashion in moderation instead of adopting these eccentric extremes.

CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. FIG. 1.- KNICKERBOCKER SUIT OF GRAY CASHMERE, ornamented with wide black galloon, for a young boy. FIG. II. SUIT OF DROWN CASSIMERE, FOR A Boy, trimmed with black braid. FIG. III -A LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS OF BLUE POPLIN, with a ruffle around the skirt, and a black-and-white silk peplum. FIG. IV. DRESS OF WHITE PIQUE, BRAIDED IN CRIMSON, for a little child. FIG. V. DRESS OF WHITE PIQUE, trimmed with heavy white embroidery.

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license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

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HOME.

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Engraved &Printed byIllman Brothers.

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MODES

PARISIENNES

PETERSON'S MAGAZINE.

MAY 1867.

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 Peterson's

Magazine :

May, 1867.

Toilet Table of Swiss over Blue Muslin.

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 GOING A-MAYING

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 MAY FOR FASHIONS CHILDREN'S

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 HEAD-DRESS HEAD-DRESS

LACE BODY.

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 MUSLIN BODY.

CAP

LACE WAIST.

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 BABY'S QUILTED SHOK.

CARRIAGE DRESS.

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 FLANNEL JACKET.

DINNER DRESS.

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 MONOGRAM FOR PILLOW-SLIPS.

veva

о

CORNER FOR BABY'S BLANKET, IN SILK EMBROIDERY.

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 WHEAT-EAR FOR SILK EMBROIDERY,

HANDKERCHIEF CORNER.

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 NETTIE

YAN E.

BALLAD.

WORDS AND MUSIC BY J. CRAP BAKER.

Published by permission of SEP. WINNER & Co., proprietors of Copyright. Allegretto.

1. I know an eye whose laughing light La

dear er far

to me

Than moonlight dancing on the waves, To oth - er eyes can be.

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 NETTIE

VANE.

know a smile that sends a thrill, 'Thro' heart and nerve and brain, And both the eye and sunny smile, Be-

to Net - tio

long

free,

Vane.

Since I

Oh, Net - tie Vane ! Oh, Net tie Vane ! My heart has ne'er been

beheld

your fai

ry

form,

And caught a smile from thee.

33

2. I hear thy voice at early dawn, I think of thee all day, And wonder how a laughing look, Could steal my heart away; And when the twilight shadows fall, At evening o'er the plain, I turn my wand'ring steps to catch A smile from Nettie Vane. Oh! Nettie Vane, etc.

3. Oh! thou hast made this tender heart, So full of love for theo, That oft I wonder if it all Is not a dream to me. But when I hear thy merry tones Fail on my car again, I know 'tis all reality My charming Nettio Vano. Oh! Nottio Vane, etc.

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 ARAY BIETEN

NEW STYLE JACKET-BACK.

NEW STYLE JACKET- FRONT.

BABY'S SKIRT.

PARASOL

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 TRICOT

PELERINE

FOR

LITTLE

GIRLS.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER. stitches, and eighteen remains ; with these crochet five rows plain upward. The back part begins also with the under point. Make a chain of three stitches ; increase one stitch after the first and before the last stitch in the first line of every row, until in the twenty-three rows there are fortyseven stitches. After working five rows straight upward leave the seven middle stitches untouched for forming the cut for the throat, and crochet with the twenty stitches on each side, separately, five rows, when, twice, one stitch is decreased, one behind the other, for the throat. The reMATERIALS.-Five or six ounces of Berlin maining rows are worked plain. The finished back is now overcast and sewn upon the shoulwool; a long tricot hook with a knob. Our design is worked in tricot with Berlinders to the front part ; then crochet four rows wool and a tolerably fine hook, so that five of double stitch round the outer edge of the stitches broad and three stitches (rows) long, two pieces just sewn together, in which always give a square of nearly an inch. This quality work through the whole stitch and make the necessary increase at the corners, so that the is suitable to little girls of from five to seven. With coarse wool and a large needle it would border does not drag. The first of these four suit older children ; then, of course, the number rows is worked with black, the second with

of stitches must be increased, and by reducing the number of stitches and rows it may be made to suit very little children. Of course, the same number of stitches must be increased or decreased in the length as in the breadth. A bright color for the foundation, with white and black border, may be chosen ; or white or gray foundation, with black border. Work the back and front parts, also the girdle and epaulets, separately. Each front part must begin at the under point. Make two stitches, crochet on them for the front edge of the outer side quite straight up, and at the opposite part to the shoulder side in-, white, the third again with black, the fourth crease in the first line of every row one stitch, with the same wool as the foundation. On the close for the outer edge stitches, consequently front straight edge of both the front parts join in the twenty-fifth row there will be twenty-six on one row with the same wool as the foundastitches. In these crochet five rows plain, then tion, and on that part on the right side make a decrease in the next three rows to form the button-hole. Before the narrow lace border of throat part- in the first row four, in each of white wool is made, work the epaulets. For the other two rows two stitches, so that in each of these make a chain of four stitches ; the whole the work has been decreased eight crochet all one side quite plain upward, on the 383

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 TRIMMING

382

FOR BALMORAL SKIRT.

D BACKlin

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DIAGRAM FOR CAPUCHIN HOOD. wwwwwwwww TRIMMING

FOR

BALMORAL

SKIRT.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

NEW designs for trimming Balmoral skirts } the latest and prettiest. It is done with blue are always sought after. The above is one of and black ribbon, half an inch wide.

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 CAPUCHIN

HOOD.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

THIS exceedingly comfortable and cozy hood may readily be made by strictly following the accompanying diagram. For material, cashmere, flannel, or silk, may be used ; or to make a very pretty and dressy hood for the opera, use sky-blue, or rose-colored Florence silk, covered with black dotted lace ; edging this with a black trimming lace, instead of the velvet ribbon seen in the design, which is the most effective finish for the cashmere ones. The one-half of the head-piece is given, and denoted by the dotted lines in the diagram, where the number of inches is correctly given for the half of the head-piece. The half of the

cape is shown by the straight lines, and number of inches given. Follow these explanations and the diagram, and you cannot fail to have a well-fitting hood. It is always best to cut out of some old muslin, and fit to the size of the head. In the front piece, where the shotr parallel lines are seen around the face, slits are to be cut and worked in button-hole stitch, for the ribbon to pass through, which draws the front to fit the face ; they are two inches apart, and sixteen in all around the entire front-by that we mean sixteen groups, two together, as seen in the design. The whole is very pretty as well as useful. 381

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 LEMUEL DRAYTON'S POCKET - BOOK. wwwm ww. my pocket of fayther's red -leather wallet, and Bosting. I'll go back in the next kears that is seventy-five dollars that I sold my colt for! going that way! Conductor, jest you hold up That's what he's done! Sarch him !" a minnit while I git out." Lemuel was informed that he could alight The train reached a way-station, and Mabel got out; but Lemuel was so nearly distracted at the next station, two miles ahead ; and he with the loss of his pocket-book, that he did accordingly did so. The return train came along in a few moments, and by noon our hero not obserye her departure. Quite a crowd had collected around our hero was safely landed in Meadville again. He made his way to his father's house with and the suspected individual, who seemed to take matters very coolly for a person in his lagging steps, and a dejected air generally. condition. Mrs. Drayton was feeding the chickens in the "If the gentleman wishes to search me,' front-yard, when she saw him coming. She said he, "he is at perfect liberty to do so. Go dropped the dough-dish and spoon, and fled to the house in the wildest alarm. on, sir." "Won't you strike me, nor grab hold of my "He's killed !" she cried, pitching head first throat, nor nothing ?" queried Lemuel. into the arms of her husband ; "he's killed, "I'll not molest you, " said the gentleman- and I've seen his ghost ! It's a-coming up the "proceed." road, with them same gray-kerseymeres on that The search was short ; but it developed I spun and wove myself, and the red-vestkit nothing beyond a few papers- a tooth-pick, a that Miss Grant made, and the gun and baled knife with a pearl-handle, and a black pocket- { basket, and all ! Jest as he went away ! Oh, Lemmy! Lemmy !" and Mrs. Drayton seized book containing eight or ten dollars. "Are you satisfied ?" asked the gentleman. the dish-cloth under the impression that it was "Sarting I am ; but it's mighty queer where a handkerchief, and wiped the tears from her that wallet went to!" eyes. Just then Lemuel entered. "The gentleman whom you have just had the "Oh, good gracious marsy ! he's come !" honor of searching, " said the conductor, " is the Rev. Dr. Truffant, of Boston- one of the cried the nervous old lady ; and immediately most eminent clergymen in the place." she dived under the bed, and peeped out from "Oh, my gracious !" cried Lemuel ; "a minis- a hole in the coverlit. ter! Marm would be the death of me, if she "Lem, what are you back for ?" asked Mr. should find out that I called a pickpocket a Drayton. "I've seen enuff of the world! Consarn minister ! I mean a pickpocket a minister ! hanged if I know what I do mean, anyhow. Bosting ! and consarn the whole world intirely ! I'm so flustratimid, I can't seem to tell tother I've had my pocket picked, and I don't keer from which." nothing about nothing !" "It's my opinion, that if you've lost any "Your pocket picked !" exclaimed Mrs. Draymoney, the girl that sat on the seat with you ton, triumphantly. "I said so ! I knowed you has got it," said the conductor. " She looked would ! It was beat into me!" Lemuel threw his hat down on the table, and something like that kind of a character." "She?" exclaimed Lemuel, in profound amaze- out rolled the missing red -leather wallet. ment. "She? why, she was as pritty a gal as "Gracious Peter !" ejaculated he, "it's here! you'd see in an age ; and I was about as good it hain't been filtered ! The gal was an angel, as engaged to her." after all ! Huray ! Hail Columby ! happy land! There was a general laugh at Lemuel's ex- Come, marm, let's have a little dance !" and Lemuel seized his mother around the waist and pense. "You needn't laff !" said our hero, defiantly. swung her about in great glee, upsetting the " I know I never seed her till this morning ; but churning of cream. "I remember it all now, as slick as can be," there's such a thing as love at first- sight———” "Especially when the object is a red-leather said Lemuel. "I was dreadful feared I should wallet, with seventy-five dollars in it, " said the lose my money, and I took it out of my pocket conductor. "It seems the young lady believes and put it into my hat ! Consarned fool ! I guess it's jest as you say, marm, that I hain't in love at first-sight, also. " "Wal," said Lemuel, disconsolately, "the fit to go into these furrin parts. I'll stay to money's gone ; and if she's got it, I'll never home and put my money into the bank, and believe in nobody agin. I wish I was to home marry Mary Ann Hinks. I've seen enuff of the with marm-I don't feel well. I won't go to world!" 380

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Rh the Saale and the Elbe. Had they been later conquerors, they must have stood above the župans, but here the župans (Avars and Bulgars) were the foremost rank, and therefore the latest conquerors, and at the time of the German domination the vićazi took rank next beneath them as feudal peasants liable to cavalry service and standing with the župans under feudal law. In West and South Europe too the Vikings on stolen horses were, as is well known, as terrible horsemen on the land as they were pirates by sea.

Thus we find both among the Alp-Slavs and the Slavs on the Elbe a peasant State in immediate proximity to župan States. Either then the peasant revolution was only successful in places, or the Avars having rallied and enslaved the peasantry of Styria afresh remained there as župans, and then together with the peasantry fell under German dominion. "Fredegar" says: "At this time Samo, a Frank, joined himself with several merchants, went to these Slavs to trade, and accompanied their army against the Avars. He shewed remarkable bravery, an enormous number of Avars fell, he was chosen king, ruled successfully thirty-five years, and beat the Avars in all following wars."

The "Fredegar" compilation incorrectly puts this event under the year 623, for the author of this chapter wrote in 642 or 643, and at that time Samo must have been already dead. If the length of his reign is correctly given, the revolt must have taken place in 605 at the latest. In the year 601 the Avars were depopulated by a disease just as the Khagan had driven Constantinople to such straits that the citizens were making ready to migrate to Chalcedon in Asia Minor. Soon after he was almost destroyed in five defeats at the hands of the Romans in Hungary itself, the heart of Avardom. These plunderers were already face to face with extinction when the Emperor Maurice was dethroned in 602, and were only saved from destruction by the incapacity of his successor Phocas. But their supremacy was now at an end. Samo's revolt thus falls between 602 and 605, most probably in the year 603. Then followed the revolt of the Croats and the Serbs, and finally the Bulgar khan Kubrat on the lower Danube made himself free between 635 and 641.

Of Samo's State only this is certain, that it bordered on Thuringia,


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 LEMUEL

DRAYTON'S

POCKET - BOOK.

379

attacked him, he could show them the gun and gals allers does. " And here Lemuel felt of his they'd be likely to leave. pocket, and looked at the black-whiskered His money was deposited in his father's old stranger on the next seat. red-leather wallet, and carefully pinned into "Why, how you talk !" said the young lady. the left-breast pocket of his vest ; and every "Do I? Wal, I'm a man of truth, and whatfew moments our hero betrayed the conscious- ever I say I'm in airnest about. I'm a man of ness of being a man of property, by tapping truth, if I be a man of property." the pocket, to assure himself that the wallet "Oh ! so you are wealthy ?" was safe. "Sarting ! or else I shouldn't be a-traveling The cars drew up to the platform, and amid { for pleasure. I've got seventy-five dollars in shouts of well-wishing Lemuel got on board, here, " tapping his pocket. The young lady endeavored to look suitably and plumped down into the first vacant seat impressed, and inquired, " What shall I call which presented itself. He felt of his pocket to see if his wallet was you, sir?" "Lemuel's my name- Lemuel Drayton. And there ; felt of his dickey to see if Mary Ann's embraces had caused it to wilt, and then looked yours ?" around on the passengers . One gentleman, he "Mabel Orne." decided at once, was a pickpocket. There " Mabel ! That's a good deal like a novelcould be no doubt of it. Pickpockets always name. I read one tother day, where the gal's had black whiskers, he had been told, and some name was Mabel ; and she killed two babies rings on their little fingers. This gentleman { and an old woman to git some property. I hope had black whiskers, and a very handsome ring { you hain't like her !" The young lady coincided in his hope. sparkled on his fourth finger. He occupied Lemuel looked at her attentively ; and before the seat in front of Lemuel, and was reading a newspaper. they had traveled many miles together, it Lemuel decided to keep his eyes open for { flashed over him that he was in love. this man, and to feel of his pocket every five "Look here!" said he, placing his arm over minutes to be sure about the wallet. the back of the seat, "why can't you and I At the next station, a very handsome young make a bargain? I hain't engaged, and you lady got in. Lemuel thought he had never hain't engaged, and we're both of us as goodseen such an angel ; Mary Ann Hinks was posi- looking as the next one ; and I've got two cows tively ugly by comparison. Such a stylish, to home-a red one and a brindled one--both gray-hat, with a scarlet feather ; such a very of ' em the master-hands to turn out the butter red-and-white complexion, and such a pair of that ever you seed ! And butter's forty-five saucy, blue- eyes, and such an enormous head cents a pound, and I vum, if you'll have me, of hair-all in curls down over her shoulders. you shall sell all the butter them two cows She paused beside the seat of Lemuel, and { makes, and no questions asked as to where the laid a daintily-gloved hand on the back of the money gets to ! And you shall dress in silk settee. every day, and in satin, too - by jingo !" And "Is this engaged ?” she asked, in a sweet at this stage of his declarations, our hero felt . voice. of his pocket. Lemuel did not quite comprehend her, and He grew pale with dismay, and started to his answered, blushing and stammering like the feet instantly. veriest school-boy, "He's got it !" shouted he ; " stop him ! Catch "Engaged ? Wal, no, I hain't exactly, though hold of him ! don't let him escape ! I knowed Mary Ann Hinks has took quite a shine to me ; he was one of them fellers the minnit I sot and I bought her a bussom-pin last spring of a eyes onto him ! Help me hold him, somebody ! pedlar; but then that hain't nothing." quick!" and he seized the astonished gentle"Of course not," returned the lady. "May man with black-whiskers by the shoulder, and I sit down?" went on shouting and gesticulating. "Seventy-five dollars ! gone like a streak! "To be shure ! Set right down ! don't be afeared of crowding me ! I guess I can stand Sarch him ! I demand that he be turned inside it, if you can. Be you engaged, may I ask ?" out, rite on the spot ! Conductor man, here ! "No," simpered the young lady, stuffing her you jest see after this fine gentleman, if you handkerchief into her mouth. please !" " What's he done ?" asked the conductor. "You hain't? Wal, now, that's curis ! ' Spect " Done ? Hain't I jest told ye ? He's picked yu've had a sight of beaux, though. Pritty

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 MAT

WITH

FEATHER

EDGE.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS. Small pheasant's, peacock's, or quarters of an inch of the outer edge. Then hen's feathers ; green velvet, goffered ribbon take a strip of gauze cut crosswise about two or braid ; glazed calico, pasteboard, etc. inches and a half broad, sew the two ends together, and then sew it firmly round the outer edge of the pasteboard, and turn it back upon the edge of the pasteboard, so that the edge is inward, consequently does not show where it was joined to the pasteboard. For the feather part, take the feathers and place them in lines closely upon each other, sticking the quills in the gauze, commencing half an inch from the outer edge of the gauze. The feathers must lie reversed, so that the last lie upon the back. Our small cut gives a portion of the gauze stripe covered with feathers in the proper size. Cover the space of half an inch all round, and gum Cut a round piece of cardboard. Cover the the quills together ; then gum one or two lines under side with green glazed calico, and the of feathers, with the ends cut very short, upon upper side with velvet ; the latter within three- the right side, without sticking them through 385

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452 and embraced the Main and Redantz (Regnitz) Slavs. Thus it lay in what had been Frankish territory, for Samo himself acknowledged: "The land we inhabit and we ourselves are Dagobert's, yet only in case he will maintain friendship with us." Before the irruption of the Avars into the Frankish kingdom in 562, it extended over the Saale to the Elbe. The Sorbs on the Saale and the Elbe as well as the Slavs on the Main and Regnitz were not transplanted (by the Avars) into this previously Frankish district till later. Thus from this time to the founding of Samo's State scarcely forty-four years elapsed, so that he could not have ceased to be conscious of the fact that his land was really Frankish property. Here, in the country of the Regnitz Slavs, the traces of the wintering of the Avars are to this day ineffaceable. On the lower Aisch, which flows from the south-west into the Regnitz between Erlangen and Bamberg, broad visages with protruding cheek-bones, deep-set eyes, and black hair are still to be met with.

But the Slavs were originally blue-eyed and fair, and were only black-haired and mongoloid where their women were systematically violated by the Altaian conquerors, and this "Fredegar" attests expressly of Samo's Slavs. The Avars (or Bulgars) must therefore have wintered here also. The same is the case with the Bohemian Slavs, whose black hair struck the traveller Ibrāhīm ibn Ia'qūb in 965 as peculiar. Whether, or how far, Samo's kingdom extended into Bohemia is not known; it is, indeed, improbable that it did so, for even in historic times no State has ever existed on both sides of the Fichtelgebirge and the Böhmerwald. As late as the ninth century several independent Slav clans existed in Bohemia, and they assuredly took part in the Slav revolt against the Avars, for there is as little trace of a župan class in Bohemia as in Carinthia. It is therefore to be presumed that the Slav tribes did not proceed singly but in combination against the Avars, and that an ephemeral federation was formed, with Samo at its head. But we have no right to speak of Samo's Empire, and the assumption that his kingdom embraced Carantania, the country of the Alpine Slavs, rests only upon the Anonymus de conversione Bagariorum et Carantanorum — a party production of the Salzburg Church directed against the Slav apostle St Methodius, and employing for its own purposes Fredegar's notice of Samo — for the association of Samo with the Carinthian Slavs would prove the latter to be members of the Frankish kingdom, and therefore of the Salzburg diocese.


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KNITTED CAPOTE FOR CHILDREN.

other always thickly at the outer edge. Increase one stitch until, in the sixth row, there are nine stitches. With these crochet fifteen rows, and then, on the same side and in the same manner, decrease the five stitches that were increased until four remain, which finishes the epaulets. These will, with the exception of the straight, long sides, be surrounded with a small border of four rows, in which-not at the corners, but in the middle-there must be an increase of a few stitches, which forms a little point. The epaulet is then overcast and sewn to the bodice, so that the shoulder-seam is in a line with the middle point at the outer edge of the epaulets. Then the lace row round the outer edge of the bodice is worked as follows : One double, then three chain, one double in

the first of the three chain, one double in the third following stitch of the border, so that with the lace scallop two stitches of the same are passed over ; from continue repeating. For each of the little belt parts, which are sewn to the under ends of each front part under the lace row, and tied together behind, make a chain of six stitches, and crochet twenty-two rows straight upward. The outer edge of the strip must be worked with one row of black and one row of white in double stitch round, and at the cross side of one part in the last row make the button-hole. The back part must also be fastened to the button, and one of the lace scallops may serve as a button-hole, or an extra loop made.

KNITTED CAPOTE FOR CHILDREN UNDER TWO YEARS OF AGE.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER. outer edges of the seventy-six perpendicular rows meet ; sew the outer edges of the division together, and draw the thread firmly, that the outer edge may not be puckered. For the trimming represented in No. 2, in the proper size, crochet with the colored Berlin wool, first along the join at the double knitted part, a line of chain-stitch scallops, consisting alternately of three chain, one double, passing over with the three chain three rows of knitting. Now fold back the knitting, so that the border is formed, and is a portion of the already knitted Capote. Work a similar line of chain-stitch scallops, working through all the four layers of the knitting; then carry the chain-stitch

MATERIALS. -Three- quarters of an ounce of Shetland wool ; quarter of an ounce of blue Berlin wool ; tolerably fine wooden needles. Cast on eighty-six stitches loosely, and knit rows forward and backward. In the first sixteen rows increase one stitch at the beginning and end of each row ; in the next sixteen rows work one row, increasing the next row without Then knit seventy- six rows without increasing, and, lastly, thirty-two rows. Decrease in proportion to the increase in the first thirty-two TOWS. Cast off loosely. Double the knitting in half, so that the two

scallop all round the outer edge of the Capote. The turned-over piece must be ornamented with a pattern in blue wool : and a curtain, about two inches broad, is formed by drawing fine crochet chain of Berlin wool through the Capote. The ends are ornamented with blue tassels, and another cord and tassels fasten the Capote beneath the chin.

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CROCHET

COMFORTER.

the gauze, and sew the gauze over a pad filled } gauze, and sew it at the outer edge so as to with scent upon the foundation, about one inch fall upon the inner feather line. Two narrow from the outer edge. Close to this scented pad rows of silk or woolen braid may be used inplace a very full goffered green sarsnet ribbon stead of ribbon, which must, however, be sewn upon the uncovered remaining part of the together. wwwww CROCHET

COMFORTER.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER. MATERIALS.-White Berlin wool ; blue filoselle ; crochet-hook. A chain of eighty stitches worked rather loosely will be sufficient for a comforter. Upon a foundation the required length, crochet for the 1st row : Like the first line forward of a common tricot row ; returning, the two first stitches are worked off separately, as usual, by drawing back the thread. Then crochet seven chain, loop the thread round the needle, work off separately the two next stitches of the preceding line, seven chain, and so on to the end of the row. In this manner work six lines forward and six backward, in which the loops always fall reversed, as represented in the design. Then draw double blue filoselle silk lengthwise through the loops of this stripe, and sew the stripes in a spiral form, stitch upon stitch, so that the filoselle appears to wind through in a slanting direction. Finish by ornamenting the comforter with a white or blue and white woolen, or silk tassel.

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 BEAD

BELL- PULL.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS.-White and black pound beads, line of beads. Work spirally in this manner, (in the whole two pounds ; ) strong white and fastening each stitch so that the size round black cotton. always remains the same ; work closely also Any colors may be chosen-blue and white, that the thread may not show between the red and white, etc., to suit the room, according stitches. The design represents a bell- pull to taste. about two yards in length, for which both the For the bell-pull, make a chain of twenty white and black rounds must be each about stitches with milk-white beads strung upon three yards long. The black is worked in the strong white cotton, and close them in a ring ; same manner as the white, and the two are upon these crochet twenty double stitches, at first sewn, then neatly twisted together. It is each stitch pushing up a bead close in front of better to put a cord in at the beginning of the the needle, so that it is fastened tightly in with crochet, and work round it to strengthen the the stitch. Always arrange in such a manner bell-pull. that the beads all turn outwardly, and lie close A ring is fastened at the top to attach the to each other, whilst the crochet stitch is fast- pull to the wire, and an ornamental glass or ened in the front of the bead inside the hollow metal handle is used at the bottom. 387

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 EDITOR'S EDITORIAL CHIT - CHAT. GRASSES THAT CAN BE GROWN.-The taste for cultivated grasses, we are glad to see, is improving. We can remember when nobody thought that grasses could be ornamental. But now anybody, who has a bit of lawn, even the tiniest, can greatly beautify it by planting there some one of the new foreign grasses. Let your piece of ground be only the smallest bed, say in front of your dusty townhouse, yet you can make it charming by setting out some ornamental grasses. If you live in the country, even in a village, and much the more upon a farm, you have greater scope, because more ground. Take the Pampas grass, for instance that giant grass of South Brazils, whose flowerstems grow from ten to twelve feet high even in this country- and how it sets off a bit of lawn! Though the native of a tropical climate, it can be easily cultivated in our gardens, where a solitary specimen or two will be quite sufficient, unless the garden be a very extensive one. It likes a cool clay soil best of any, and the flowers come to perfection in September or October ; they look like beautiful plumes of silvery white feathers ; the leaves are narrow and tremendously long; they are, indeed, sometimes six or eight feet in length, and of rather a dull green color. When this grass is raised from seeds, they should be sown early in March, in pots, which should at first be kept in a warm pit, and moved into a green-house when the plants are well up. The soil should be kept very moist at all times. In the following November the plants should be shifted, but still kept in a green-house ; and about May, when they are over a year old, they may be removed to the open border. It is very necessary, however, to form, whenever this grass is planted out, a trench all round it, like a little basin, in which some manure should be placed, and water poured freely in at all seasons, if the weather is the least dry. The feather-grass is another very beautiful specimen of the grass family. It can be ordered from almost every seedman's shop, but its being so common does not make it the less graceful. It grows naturally in Germany, on mountainous spots, where it is fully exposed to the heat of the sun. Old Gerade mentioned this grass two hundred years ago, and says it was worn in those days by gentlewomen, instead of a feather, in their hats. It certainly is very like a feather, for its awns are thickly set with fino diverging hairs. It should be divided in the spring, and can be very easily propagated. It likes an open situation and light soil, especially soil of a chalky nature. Its botanical name is Stipa Pennata. The rough-spiked, hard grass of the Levant is by no means wanting in beauty among a collection of grasses ; some persons assert that our wheat has been gradually raised from species of this genus. It is an annual, very hardy, and blooms in July. It should be sown in October in tolerably rich soil- thinly sown. The tussack grass, and different varieties of the Arundo, are also worth growing. The Arundo Donax is a noble-looking plant from South America ; it should be grown in masses in a moist place, for it is akin in its nature to a reed. It is propagated by parting the roots early in the spring, before the plant begins to grow. The stems die off in the antun, and then the bed ought to be well mulched (covered) over with short manure or dry fern-leaves, to save the roots from frost. But all grasses are beautiful. A well-kept lawn, or even a bit of grass-land in a front yard is one of the most satis388

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fying things the eye can rest on. Grass clothes the whole earth, weaving its fairy tassels with the wind, climbing up the steep mountain-passes where man's foot can never tread, fastening its slender roots between the shelving crags, and shedding its quiet beauty over the resting-place of death. Everywhere grass is beautiful. ONE OF THE NOVELTIES introduced, this season, in Paris, in the way of ornaments, is that of wearing round the throat and neck several rows of chains, either of gold or silver, or pearls, or jet, or beads of some sort or other, gradually descending, so as almost to cover the bare space left above the lace which forms the tucker. This fashion, joined to the immense quantity of beads worn on trimmings, shoulder-knots, girdles, and generally over the dress, gives a semi-barbaric look to modern evening toilets, not altogether in accordance with the proverbial good taste attributed, in matters of dress, to French women. There are, in fact, so many foreigners from all nations domiciled, this year, in Paris, that foreign habits and ways have been adopted in French circles quite as much as formerly these used to be imposed by them on others, and the consequence is an evident deterioration in the style of dress. One of the eccentric ladies of fashion in the higher walks of Parisian life, the Princess Metternich, is notorious for liking to introduce some new style, and then, when she sees it adopted by others in her set, discarding it altogether, so as to remain always aside of the field. At the Tuileries, lately, she wore a massive range of silver work, ending in a delicate fringe round her neck ; and at the ball of Baron Haussmann six or eight rows of gold chains, fastened by a brilliant butterfly of rubies, diamonds, and emeralds. Many ladies wore necklaces of the same sort, in various materials, of which imitation pearls are a favorite one. SEASONABLE DRESS.-We adapt our dress to spring, summer, autumn, and winter, but often with very little success, at least as far as comfort is concerned. It seems to be forgotten that a little extra looseness of dress will produce coolness, and that a thin covering in the heat of the sun fails to protect us from the heat. Thin, dark clothes, in a hot summer, are especially uncomfortable ; and a black hat, however light, is in some places enough to roast the brains when exposed to the full power of the sun's rays. Remember, as a rule, that light-colored clothes keep the heat in the body when the air is cold, and, when the sun is warm, keep the body from reaching the heat better than dark. Remember, also, that a woolen or cotton covering keeps the skin at an equable temperature better than linen. THE MT. CARMEL (Ill.) Democrat says :-" Peterson's Magazine does more to cultivate the taste and inform the minds and hearts of the wives, daughters, and sisters, whom it reaches, than any other agency that we are acquainted with."

ILL-IIUMOR is more often the result of indigestion than of anything else. Take plenty of exercise, and do not eat too much, and you will escape many an attack of spleca and bad temper. IN REMITTING FOR THIS MAGAZINE, adhere strictly to the directions we give. Otherwise, if the money is lost, wo cannot send the Magazine. GOING A-MAYING will recall to the old the time when they were young, and will rekindle in the young the love for fresh air, flowers, green grass, and sunshine.

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 REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS.

380

AN ENTIRELY NEW FASHION has recently been introduced s Venetian Life. By W. D. Howells. 1 vol., 12 mo. New in Paris; it is the adoption of complete Breton costumes. York: Hurd & Houghton.-A delightful book. Venice is Some have as yet but partially adopted them, and wear the here delineated with the accuracy of a photograph, but jacket belonging to the costume only; but more daring with a warmth and color to which no photograph can preones have accepted the entire dress with the exception of tend. The chapters entitled " Arrival and First Days in the cap. At a fashionable reception, lately, the hostess Venice," " Churches and Pictures," "The Balcony on the wore- first a short petticoat of dark-blue cloth, bordered Grand Canal," and " Some Islands of the Lagoons," aro with embroidery of various-colored silks, and above that, a particularly charming. Travelers, who have been at Venice, second skirt, in the same style, with this difference only, will appreciate the book especially ; while those who have that the embroidery was edged at both sides with a wide never seen Venice, will wish to start for it forthwith. In band of black velvet. The bodice was low, with immense its way it is as great an addition to our literature as Story's arm-holes simulated by embroidery and velvet ; the sleeve "Roba di Roma." The volume, like all the publications of was quite plain at the top, but opened at the elbow to Hurd & Houghton, is well printed. Price, in cloth, $2.00. allow a white, full sleeve, which fastened at the wrist, to Memoirs and Correspondence of Madame Recamier. Transbe seen. Aguimpe, made of tucked nainsook muslin, with lated from the French, and edited by Josephine M. Lungster. a plain, turned-back collar, concealed the shoulders. 1 vol. 12 mo. Boston : Roberts Brothers.- Madame Recamier Promenade costumes are made in the same style, both in was a famous beauty during the First Empire ; and this is cloth and cashmere, and to these a loose paletot to match her life, as written by her adopted daughter. She appears is invariably added. The Langaste costume, which is black, here as a woman of marvelous tact, great sweetness of the embroidery being worked in very bright colors, the temper, forgetfulness of self, and durable affections. Some arms of Brittany on the pockets of the large jacket, and a ofthe most eminent men of her day, among them Chateauprofusion of silver grelots ornamenting it, is one of the most briand, were her fast friends ; and the volume is full of picturesque and fanciful of all Breton dresses, and it is re- their letters. Price, in cloth, $2.00. ported that even this will be adopted in time. As yet The Papacy; its Historic Origin and Primitive Relations these costumes, although very appropriate for promenade with the Eastern Churches. By the Abbe Guettee, D. D. toilets, (because they are short, and are composed of dark, Translated from the French. 1 vol., 12 mo. New York: substantial materials, ) are only to be seen in carriages and Carleton. The author of this work is a French divine, reception-rooms, on account of their extreme novelty ; and reared in the communion of Rome, but now holding confor the present there is but one shop in Paris where they clusions different from those maintained by that church. can be procnred. For some length of time it has been well He writes well, and evidently has genius. The Rt. Rev. known that gentlemen, belonging to the upper circles, have Bishop Coxe, of Western New York, furnishes an introducworn the Breton costume for sporting and at friendly tion to the book. Price, in cloth, $1.75. gatherings; and now the ladies, following their usual Ecce Deus. Essays on the Life and Doctrine of Jesus course, intend to imitate them. Hats are worn with the Christ. With Controversial Notes on " Ecce Homo." 1 vol., Breton costume ; the Parisian bonnet would harmonize but 12 mo. Boston: Roberts Brothers.- The author of this work ill with it. differs, in some important points, from the writer of " Ecce OUR APRIL NUMBER.—The Waupin (Wis.) Leader says of Homo," a book which, as most of our readers know, has our last number :-" Peterson's Magazine is received, as made a sensation recently in the religious world. " Ecce usual, far in advance of its contemporaries. The opening Deus" does not pretend, however, to be only a reply to engraving, ' The Opera-Box,' is very pretty, and the lite-" " Ecce Homo." Price, in cloth, $2.00. rary matter is excellent. It is bound to maintain its posiThe Market Assistant. By J. F. De Voe. 1 vol., 12 mo. tion as the leading Ladies' Magazine." The Whitehall ( N. 3 New York: Hurd & Houghton.- This is a sort of hand-book Y.) Times says :-" Peterson's is conceded by all who have for housekeeping. It contains a description of every articlo perused its pages, for the past year, to be the Magazine for of human food sold in the public markets of Philadelphia, the times. The embellishments in the present number are New York, and Boston, including the various domestic and superb." . wild animals, poultry, game, fish, vegetables, fruits, etc., etc. Price, in cloth, $2.00. IT 18 NOT TOO LATE to get up clubs for this Magazine. David Copperfield. By Charles Dickens. 1 vol., 8 vo. Back numbers can be supplied from the beginning of the Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.-The second of the year. popular series of the " Author's Edition of Dickens." Messrs. T. B. Peterson & Brothers are the only American publishers who pay Dickens anything for his novels. There REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS . are twenty-five illustrations in this volume. Price, in cloth, The Tent on the Beach, and other Poems. By J. G. Whit- $1.25. tier. 1 vol., 12 mo. Boston: Ticknor & Fields.- This new The Initials. By the Baroness Tauthæus. 1 vol., 12 mo. poem by Whittier is founded on the pleasant fiction, that Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.- A new and neat edithree friends go to spend a week or two in a tent, pitched tion of one of the very best novels of the day. We think on the sea-shore, during the heats of summer, and that, we have read " The Initials" half a dozen times. Where is while there, the time is beguiled by the reading of various there a character more charming than that of Hildegarde? poems. These latter are Whittier's more recent fugitive Price, in cloth, $2.00. pieces, " The Wreck by Rivermouth," " The Changeling," The Last Warning Cry; with Reasons for the Hope that "The Palatine," etc., etc., thus adroitly strung together as Boccacio strung his tales. The descriptive passages in the is in Me. By the Rev. John Cumming. 1 vo. , 12 mo. New newer and narrative portion are particularly good. The York: Carleton.-This is the last of a very famous series of volume also contains various other poems and lyrics, na- works: "The Great Tribulation," " The Great Preparation," tional and occasional, among them. "The Mantle of St. and " The Great Consummation ." Price, in cloth, $1.50. Our Mutual Friend. By Charles Dickens. 1 vol., 18 mo. John de Matha," and the stirring " Laus Deo." In his peculiar walk Whittier has no superior. There is a mar- Boston: Ticknor & Fields.-Another volume of Ticknor & tial ring in many of his poems. Quaker as he is, which no Fields' neat and popular " Diamond Edition of Dickens." other American writer as yet has rivaled. The volume is The illustrations show a great advance on these in the "Pickwick." Price, in cloth, $1.50. neatly printed and bound. Price, $1.50.

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OUR ARM-CHAIR. - OUR NEW COOK- BOOK

OUR ARM - CHAIR. CHOICE FLOWER-SEEDS.-Ladies, if you want an elegant flower-garden the following season, send for a DOLLAR, or TWO DOLLAR collection of choice annuals. Also for a DOLLAR collection of choice vegetable seeds for the KitchenGarden. Mailed free on receipt of price. Address, JOHN S. IVES, Salem, Mass. GOOD PENS GIVEN AWAY.-Samples of " Adams & Co.'s Celebrated Golden Pens," used and recommended by the principal banks, offices, and commercial houses of Boston, will be sent free on receipt of a stamp for postage. Address, ADAMS & Co., 12 Broomfield St., Boston, Mass.

THE NATIONAL EDITION of the "Waverley Novels," five volumes, octavo, bound in cloth, is sent, pre-paid, for $15.00. This is the cheapest edition of Scott's novels to be had. Address, T. B. PETERSON & BROTHERS, Philada., Pa.

Bouillon.- A kind of French soup or stew, prepared as follows:-An earthen pot, made to hold from one to seven pounds of meat, is provided. A sufficient quantity of lean meat, usually part of the leg or shoulder, is put into this vessel, which is then filled up with cold water, the proportion being five pints of water to a pound and a half of meat. It is to be then placed on the hob. When it begins to simmer, the scum which is thrown up is carefully removed from time to time, three-quarters of an hour being allowed for this purpose. A carrot, half a parsnip, a turnip, an onion, a little celery, and any other vegetables in season, are then added, together with salt, pepper, and spice. After these additions, the pot remains covered at the fire, and is kept there simmering for six hours more, hot water being from time to time supplied in the place of that which has evaporated.

VEGETABLES. To Stew Peas.-Take a quart of shelled peas, a large OUR "WASHINGTON" Mezzotint, or either of the " BUN- Spanish onion, or two of middling size, and two lettuces, YAN" Mezzotints, will be sent, postage paid, for $2.00. Any cut small; put them into a saucepan with half a pint of water ; season them with a little salt, a little pepper, mace, two will be sent for $3.00 ; or the whole three for $4.50. and nutmeg. Cover them close, and let them stew a quarAddress, C. J. PETERSON, Philadelphia, Pa. ter of an hour; then put in a quarter of a pound of fresh THE AMERICAN TEA COMPANY offer great inducements to butter rolled in a little flour, a spoonful of catchup, and a small piece of butter as big as a nutmeg; cover them close, the public. See advertisement on cover. and simmer gently an hour, often shaking the pan. Batter for Frying Vegetables or Fritters.- Moisten a little flour with water, and add to it a small quantity of salt, a PARLOR AMUSEMENTS. tablespoonful of olive-oil, and a spoon and a half of French THE BOUQUET -Each player, in his turn, supposes him- brandy. Beat up the mixture thoroughly, and when you self a bouquet, composed of three different flowers. Each are ready to use it, beat into it the white of an egg preone must name aloud, to the leader of the game, the three { viously beaten to a strong froth. This batter may be used flowers of which he considers himself composed. for frying sweet entremets, in which case sugar must be put The leader of the game writes down the names of the instead of salt. three flowers, and adds to what he has written, without Old Potatoes to look like Young Ones.-Wash some large informing the other, the names ofany three persous of the potatoes, and with a small scoop made for the purpose, company he may choose. form as many diminutive ones as will fill a dish ; boil them He then asks the player to what use he intends to put in two or three waters about three minutes each time, the the three flowers he has chosen. The player tells him to water being put to them cold; then let them steam till what use he means to put them, and the leader of the game tender; pour a white sauce over them, and serve with the second course. Old potatoes prepared thus have been misapplies it to the three persons that he has written down. taken for young ones at the best tables. Potato Chips.- Wash and peel some potatoes, then pare them, ribbon-like, into long lengths; put them into cold OUR NEW COOK - BOOK. water to remove the strong potato flavor; drain them, and Every receipt in this Cook-Book has been tested by a throw them into a pan with a little butter, and fry them a brown. Take them out of the pan, and place them light practical housekeeper. close to the fire on a sieve lined with clean writing-paper MEATS. to dry, before they are served up. A little salt may be Haricot Mutton.-Take a piece of mutton, the middle of sprinkled over them. the neck is the best to select, remove all skin and fat ; boil For a Dish of Rice.-Take a pound of Patna rice, some butter in a frying-pan, and place therein the chops, washed in salt and water; thenhalf put in two quarts ofboiling and fry them until they present a light-brown color; water, and boil it briskly for twenty minutes; then strain arrange them in a stewing-pan with button onions, tur- it into a cullender, and shake it into a dish, but not touch nips, and carrots, neatly cut and overlaid ; and upon these it with your fingers nor a spoon, and to be served up in a pour the boiling butter left in the frying-pau, to which dish by itself. some water must have been added; season this mess disWatery Potatoes.-Put into the pot a piece of lime as creetly, cover it close, and let it simmer gently until the large as a hen's egg; and how watery soever the potatoes vegetables are reduced to a state of pulp. Stew in a little may have been, when the water is poured off the potatoes water, in a separate saucepan, the rough pieces, the skin will be perfectly dry and mealy. and fat above alluded to, and with these make the gravy, DESSERTS. which, when ready, mix with the chops. Remove by careful skimming all particles of fat. A Cheap Family Pudding.-One pound of flour, one Ragout of Veal.-Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan. pound of suet, chopped fine, three-quarters of a pound of Cut the veal in chops. Use bones and all- the ends and molasses or sugar, one pound each of carrots and potatoes, trimmings; may use from the loin or neck. Put them in well boiled and mashed together, half a pound of raisins, the pan and stir till brown. Dust in a little flour and three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs ; spice, flavoring, stir; add half a pint of broth and stir again ; salt and pep- and peel optional. Mix the whole well together with a per; add a bunch of seasoning. For the ragout, take six little water; it must not be too stiff, and certainly not too sliced potatoes and put them in the pan with the veal, and moist. Rub a basin well with dripping, and boil for eight boil. This is a very nice dish, and a cheap one. hours.

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 OUR NEW COOK- BOOK. A German Pudding.- Boil twelve good-sized potatoes, peel them, and crush them thoroughly. Put them into a saucepan, with salt and a little lemon-peel ; put it on the fire, and stir all well whilst you add a piece of fresh butter and a little cream and sugar. When quite hot, take the saucepan from the fire, let the mixture cool a little, and then add a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, four whole eggs, and the yolks of four more. Mix all well together, and put into a mould which has previously had a slight coating of butter and bread-crumbs. Bake it, and bring it hot to table. Arrow-Root Pudding.-Mix a tablespoonful of arrow-root in two of cold milk; pour it into a pint of boiling milk, in which dissolve a teacupful of white sugar ; stir it constantly, and add a little mace, or any other kind of spice, and four eggs. Bake it half an hour in a dish lined with paste. If it is preferred to look clear, substitute water instead ofmilk, and add one more egg. Fritters. One egg, and a cup of thick, sour milk, half a teaspoonful of soda, and one teaspoonful of salt ; stir thick, and dip with a spoon into the hot lard.

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Orange Compote.-Cut the oranges into small pieces, boil them in water until they are quite tender, and then remove them into cold water. Make a syrup with one glass of water, and four ounces of sugar, and put in the fruit. Let it simmer gently over a slow fire for half an hour, and serve it cold. White Cake.- One cup of butter, with two of loaf-sugar, beaten to a cream, the whites of seven eggs, beaten to a froth, added ; mix one cup each of flour and corn-starch, and one teaspoonful of soda, and two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar; beat all quick, but thorough, and bake immediately. Caledonian Cream.-The whites of two eggs, two spoonfuls of loaf-sugar, two of raspberry-jam, two of currantjelly ; all to be beaten together with a silver spoon till so thick that the spoon will stand upright in it.

BREAKFAST DISHES. Bœuf a la Napolitaine.--Take four or five pounds of the thin flank of beef, rub it thoroughly with two ounces of coarse sugar, half an ounce of saltpetre, and one pound of common salt, throwing on a little grated nutmeg after it SUPPER DISHES. is rubbed. Let the meat lie for four or five days in a dish, Florentines.-These are very delicious, and form a pretty turning it every day. After this, roll it very tightly, and dish for supper. Roll puff-paste to a thickness of the eighth tie it up across and across with tape. Stew it with pepperof an inch, and lay it on a thin baking-tin. Spread over it corns, cloves, and one or two allspice, in as much water as a layer of greengage, or any other preserve or jam, and will just cover it, then take it out and press between two bake it in a moderate oven. Take it out, and when par- boards with a heavy weight, and let it remain so until tially cool, having whipped some whites of eggs with sugar, quite cold, when the tape may be removed. put the whip over the preserve, and strew some minced Tete Marbree.- Half a pig's-head, (if fresh, so much the almonds all over the surface, finishing with sifted sugar. better,) the ears and a foot or two, to be boiled in as little Put it once more into the oven until the whip is quite stiff. water as possible, till the bones will slip out. Take out The florentines should be of a pale color, and a few minutes the head, remove the bones from it, and boil them in the after the paste is finally removed from the oven it should liquor till it is reduced. Cut the meat when cold into be cut into diamonds, and when served up, placed on a ser- squares, season it to taste, add the liquor ; when boiling, viette, or an ornamental paper. put it into a mould, let it stand until it is quite cold. This To Stew Apples.-One pound of sugar boiled in one quart can be made with pigs' -fect only. The stronger the liquor of spring-water and skimmed, one pound of the largest is the better. lemon pippins, cut in quarters and the cores taken out. Breakfast Jelly.-Boil one ox-heel in a gallon of water Have the syrup boiling ; when you put them in let them till reduced to a quart, then chop the meat of the heel fine, stew till they are quite tender, then add the juice of two and put it again into the stewpan with the liquor, adding large lemons, and the peel cut small; give them a few more a teaspoonful of vinegar, and one of parsley, chopped fine; boils after the lemons are put in. If you want them to salt to taste, and let it all boil together for fifteen minutes ; keep all the year, the syrup must be well boiled after the pour it into a mould, and when cold, turn it out for use. apples are taken out. As you peel the apples fling them It is eaten with a little pounded white sugar, mustard, and into cold water. vinegar mixed together, without which it would be insipid. Motted Beef-Take three pounds of beef well salted, pick Apple Trifle.- Scald as many apples as, when pulped, will cover the dish you design to use to the depth of two out any gristle or skin that may be in it. Pound the meat or three inches. Before you place them in the dish, add to carefully in a stone mortar with a little butter until it bethem the rind of half a lemon, grated fine, and sugar to comes a fine paste. Season it by degrees, as you are beattaste. Mix half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, anding it, with black pepper, allspice, or pounded cloves, mace, the yolk of an egg ; scald it over the fire, keeping it stir- or grated nutmeg. Put it in pots, pressing it down as ring, and do not let it boil ; add a little sugar, and let it closely as possible, and covering it to about the thickness stand till cold, then lay it over the apples, and finish with of a quarter of an inch with clarified butter. Erfs de la Croquemitaine.- Put into a stewpan three the cream-whip. Blanc-Mange.- Dissolve by boiling an ounce of isinglass tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, a little grated tongue or in a pint and a quarter of water, so that when the solution beef, pepper and salt. When quite hot, put in four eggs, is complete it may measure a pint; then add the whites of well beaten ; stir all the time until the mixture becomes four eggs, with two spoonfuls of rice-water, to prevent the quite thick. Have ready a slice of bread toasted and buteggs from coagulating ; sugar it to the palate, and add such tered ; spread the mixture on the toast, and send it to table condiments as you please. Strain the whole through a very hot. Ham Toast.-Melt in a stewpan a small piece of butter jelly-bag into a basin. When cold, cut into what shape you till it is browned a little. Put in as much finely minced please, and garnish it with flowers, etc. Velvet Cream.-To a pint of cream put a verylittle sugar, ham as will cover a large round of buttered toast, and add keep stirring it over the fire till the sugar is dissolved, and as much gravy as will make it moist. When quite hot. then take it off; but keep on stirring it till it is about the stir in quickly with a fork one egg. Place the mixture warmth of new milk, after which pour it through a fine over the toast, which cut in pieces of any shape you may colander into a dish containing three spoonfuls of lemon or fancy. An Omelette - Beat thoroughly six eggs ; chop some orange-juice, a little grated peel, and a little marmalade, chopped small, with two spoonfuls of white wine. This parsley, a very small piece of onion, and a little ham very sinall; beat all together and fry. should be prepared the evening before it is wanted.

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 392

FASHIONS

Fricandellans - Mince the lean of cold lamb or veal very finely; soak a large slice ofcrumb of bread in boiling milk; mash it and mix it with the minced meat, also a beaten egg, some boiled chopped parsley and thyme, a little grated lemon-peel, pepper and salt. Make it into small, flat cakes and fry them in butter or lard. Serve them up dry on a serviette or with good gravy.

FOR

MAY.

piques, etc., are in various patterns ; but stripes seem to be the prevailing style. SKIRTS, VERY MUCH GORED, are universal. In some instances the material has all the effect of being pasted to the figure, as there is neither pleat nor wrinkle in the upper part of the skirt ; it is, in fact, an exact copy of the style worn during the First Empire. The trains of dresses have attained the length of a yard and a half, and even SANITARY. more, and this exaggeration renders the moving about a Salve for Chapped Lips and Hands.-Take two ounces of crowded ball-room a matter of extreme awkwardness and white wax, one ounce of spermaceti, four ounces of oil of perplexity. Crinoline has not absolutely disappeared, but almonds, two ounces of English honey, quarter of an ounce it is now reduced to three circles of steel at the lower part of essence of bergamot, or any other scent. Melt the wax of the skirt, and these circles measure from two and a half and spermaceti ; then add the honey, and melt all together, to two and three-quarter yards in circumference. Above and when hot, add the almond oil by degrees, stirring it the cage a well gored, narrow white petticoat is worn, and till cold. This is superior to glycerine for chapped hands, { above this is a second white petticoat, which is elaborately trimmed. As the fashion of long trains necessitates the sun-burns, or any roughness on the skin. Cure for Headache -Put a handful of salt into a quart of frequent exhibition of the petticoat when moving about a water, add one ounce of spirits of hartshorn and half an room, this second skirt is frequently ornamented with ounce of camphorated spirits of wine. Put them quickly Valenciennes lace and rich embroidery. These under garinto a bottle, and cork tightly to prevent the escape of the ments prove very costly; so the more moderate substitute spirit. Soak a piece of rag with the mixture, and apply it for those rich decorations, is a trellis-work formed with fine white braid, and a star embroidered in satin-stitch in the to the head; wet the rag afresh as soon as it gets heated. To Cure a Wen.-Wash it with common salt dissolved in center ofevery lozenge of the trellis-work. This ornament water every day, and it will be removed in a short time. is braided and embroidered in the flounce of the petticoat, Or make a strong brine of alum-salt; simmer it over the and is very easily worked. Petticoats for evening wear fire. When thus prepared, wet a piece of cloth in it every are made within an inch as long as the dresses; and it day, and apply it constantly for one month, and the pro- should be borne in mind that the train of a skirt now meatuberance will disappear. sures at the very least three-quarters of a yard. Some skirts are trimmed with a sash kind of piece, To Cure Chilblains.- Rub the part affected with brandy and salt, which hardens the feet at the same time that it which widens as it descends from the waist, and is cut removes the inflammation. Sometimes a third application round at the ends; there are several on the skirt, lengthcures the most obstinate chilblains. ening as they approach the back. Some of these sashes To Cure Diptheria.- Take a common tobacco-pipe, place end-in points, trimmed with tassels, some are triangular, a live coal in the bowl, drop a little tar upon the coal, and others ornamented with a rosette. THE WAISTS OF DRESSES are made quite plain and high draw the smoke into the mouth, and discharge it through the nostrils. usually, though those which are cut square in the neck Cure for a Cough.-A patient, who, for nearly two are popular with young ladies. SLEEVES will be wider as the warm weather approaches; months, could not pass a night in quiet without large doses of laudanum, has been cured of a most harassing and we shall soon have our graceful, old-fashioned Pagoda back again. sleeve cough by suet boiled in milk. SHORT WALKING DRESSES are now indispensable on the To Clean Zinc.-Rub clean lard on it with a cloth, and street, and the style is as varied as the tastes of the rub dry with a clean cloth. wearers. In all cases the paletot should correspond with the upper skirt. In many cases the skirt is cut sufficiently long to cover the petticoat entirely, and prettily trimmed. FASHIONS FOR MAY. SACQUES AND PALETOTS are short and loose, and cut in FIG. 1.-WALKING DRESS OF BROWN FOULARD SILK, with a various forms. The round " Cardinal Cape," of the same material as the dress, has been revived, but is not yet very petticoat of the same color. The jacket is tight fitting. FIG. II.-CARRIAGE DRESS OF BLACK SILK, over a petticoat general ; in fact, it does not look as well as a sacque with of cherry-colored silk. The under-body is of pink silk, and a short dress. THE MARIE ANTOINETTE BONNET is the most worn; but the peplum-jacket has no sleeves. FIG. III.-EVENING DRESS OF GREEN SATIN.- The skirt is with its large, round crown, is not stylish-looking if not trimmed with bows of satin ribbon, with jet fringe at the very tastefully trimmed. ends, and has a very long train. The loose Venetian sleeves are lined with white satin. CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. FIG. IV.- HOUSE DRESS OF PEARL-COLORED SILK.- The body ofwhite muslin is worn under a pink silk jacket. FIG. 1.- SUIT OF BLACK VELVET, FOR A LITTLE BOY.-The FIG. V. CARRIAGE DRESS OF CHENE SILK, trimmed with collar is quite large and pointed. pipings of green silk. The peplum can be worn with the FIG. II-A YOUNG GIRL'S DRESS OF WHITE AND CHERRY dress or not, at pleasure, as it fastens on under the belt. STRIPED FOULARD, trimmed with ruchings and rosettes of FIG. VI. HOUSE DRESS OF BLACK SILK, over a blue silk cherry-colored silk. petticoat. The tight sleeves are of blue silk, with black FIG. III -RUSSIAN COSTUME FOR A LITTLE BOY; the undersilk lozenges on them ; and the loose sleeve is of black, dress is of crimson cashmere, and the upper one of fawnlined with blue. colored cashmere. Striped stockings, and high boots. GENERAL REMARKS.- The chene silks are remarkably eleFIG. IV.- DRESS OF BLUE SILK, FOR A LITTLE GIRL.- The gant this spring, but enormously high. Even the pretty skirt is trimmed in diamonds of darker blue silk, joined foulards, which one used to think made a very nice and with flat, white buttons; and the pointed jacket, without comparatively cheap dress, now cost as much as chene and sleeves, is also of the darker shade of silk. The sleeves are summer plaids used to do- a good foulard costing about of the color of the skirt, and there is a white silk vest. twenty-eight dollars. Summer peplums, mohairs, alpaca, FIG. V.- DRESS OF GREEN SILK, trimmed with black velcrepes, etc., are cheaper, but not so dressy. Organdies, vet, for a little girl.

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text:
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Engraved &Printed byIllman Brothers.

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MODES

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PETERSON'S MAGAZINE.

JUNE, 186. 7.

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text: Page:Peterson's Magazine 1867 a.pdf/405

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text:
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1867.

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CHAIN STITCH.

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text:
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text:
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 CHILDREN'S COSTUMES FOR A FANCY PARTY.

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JET TRIMMING.

HOUSE DRESS

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 JET TRIMMING.

WALKING DRESS.

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 Fanny NAME FOR MARKING.

WALKING DRESS.

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text:
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CARRIAGE DRESS.

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text:
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INFANT'S BOOT-PATTERNS FOR HALF OF BOOT AND FOR SOLE.

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title: Page:Peterson's Magazine 1867 a.pdf/419


text:
Talk:Statement of the National Task Force for the West Philippine Sea (August 22, 2023)

Is Facebook the only place that this was published ? Not on the organisation's website ? Beardo (talk) 11:37, 14 December 2023 (UTC)
 * The official website does not have all the statements. The Facebook is run by the National Security Council of the Philippines, so it is also official. Squirist (talk) 02:23, 19 December 2023 (UTC)
 * Facebook is not very reliable, the document may disappear from there at any time. I suggest uploading it to Commons. --Jan Kameníček (talk) 08:34, 19 December 2023 (UTC)


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By ‘pure Shintô’ is meant the religious belief of the Japanese people previous to the introduction of Buddhism and the Confucian philosophy into Japan, and by its revival the attempt which a modern school of writers has made to eliminate these extraneous influences, and to present Shintô in its original form. The very name of Shintô is repudiated by this school, on the ground that the word was never applied to the ancient religions belief until the introduction of Buddhism and Confucianism rendered its employment necessary for the sake of distinction, and the argument that, because this belief is called by a Chinese name, it must therefore be of Chinese origin, is of no value whatever.

The statement that the study of the Chinese classics was introduced in the year 285 A. D., though received without mistrust by European writers on the authority of native historians, may certainly be questioned. The earliest extant account of historical events (the Kojiki) dates only from the year 711 of our era, while no attempt whatever of the kind is recorded to have been made earlier than the 5th century; and yet the Nihongi (720 A. D.) affects to give the precise dates, even to the day of the month, of events that are ascribed to the seventh century

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 “Well, then, you may see about the funeral as well, good gossip, the mayor”, said the peasant woman, and burst into tears. They were tears of anger, of impotence, and of little-mindedness.

“I will see about it, my good gossip, I will see about it”, said the mayor; went to the corpse, took its measure, then took Frank by the hand, gave him his measure, and said, “Go, little son of mine, to the grave-digger, that he may delve a grave for thy grandfather according to this measure.”

Frank took the measure, and sped like the foam, and the mayor and his witnesses discharged their duties with respect to Loyka’s personalty.

N Frishets they had a chapel, near which lay the old burial-ground, but they had long ceased to bury the dead in it. The burial-ground for the present defunct was distant about a quarter of an hour’s journey from the village, and almost in a deserted spot.

From Frishets to the west trended a low hill for a distance of two miles; it was tillage-land on both its slopes and divided into fields, while along the ridge of the hill itself ran a carriage road. Half-way along the hill and near the carriage-road was the burial-ground of the union—that is to say, Frishets and several other villages.

Four lofty walls, built in a quadrangle and whitewashed, proclaimed from a distance that they were the walls of a cemetery. High aloft and stretching to heaven in the centre of these four walls a ruddy-painted cross on which hung a white-metal figure of the Christus confirmed it, while several lesser crosses which only just managed to peer into the neighbouring district with their summits ranged along the wall, equally bore witness to the fact. If a dead man could have risen from the grave, he would only have needed to sit astride the cemetery wall and he would have seen his native village and the very house in which he was born, from whatever parish he had been brought hither. Contrariwise, the villagers of any parish could see at a glance the dwelling-place of their dead, and visit them in memory.

Moreover, in the cemetery were two modest buildings placed side by side. One with three grated windows; and in that dwelt the grave-digger. One with a single small window without any


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 B. C., or fifteen centuries back. An even stronger ground for disbelieving the accuracy of the early chronology is the extraordinary longevity assigned by it to the early Mikados. Of the fifteen Mikados from Jimmu Tennô down to Ôjin Tennô’s predecessor, eleven are said to have lived considerably over one hundred years. One of them, Suinin Tennô, reached the age of one hundred and forty-one years, and his successor Keikô Tennô lived to the age of one hundred and forty-three, while to Ôjin Tennô and his successor Nintoku Tennô are given one hundred and eleven, and one hundred and twenty-three years respectively. They are however surpassed in longevity by the famous Takeuchi no Sukune, who is reported to have died in A.D. 390 at the age of three hundred and fifty-six years. A further reason for doubting the statement is that the Kojiki names the “Thousand character Composition” (Senji-mon) as one of the books brought over in A. D. 285, although it is certain that it could not have reached Japan much earlier than the middle of the 6th century. All that can safely be said is that Confucianism probably preceded Buddhism.

The first Buddhist images and Sûtras were brought to Japan from Corea in the year 552, if we can believe the Nihongi, but it was long before the religion obtained much hold on the people. In the beginingbeginning [sic] of the ninth century the priest Kûkai (b. 774, d. 835, better known by his posthumous name of Kôbô Daishi) compounded out of Buddhism, Confucianism and Shintô a system of doctrine called Riôbu Shintô. Its most prominent characteristic was the theory that Shintô deities were nothing more than transmigrations of Buddhist divinities, and Kûkai is accused of perpetrating various forgeries in order to obtain credit for his teaching. The alliance thus effected between the native belief and the foreign religion enabled the latter to obtain the ascendancy to which it was entitled on account of its superior adaptation to man’s sense of his own shortcomings and longing for perfection. Buddhism became the religion of the whole nation, from the Mikado

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 grating, and there dwelt the bones. It was quite proper that, on account of the lonesomeness of his dwelling the grave-digger should have his windows grated, in order that no ill-disposed person should break into his house; it would have been quite superfluous to put a grating to the charnel-house; for who would ever think of entering that single window? At one side were a few skulls piled in order and a few unburied shin-bones—that was a treasure about which a thief pays scanty heed.

By day mirth and gaiety reigned around the burial-ground. People worked afield, conversed, sang, whistled, shouted to one another from field to field, and answered one another from field to field and sound and speech are the source of all gaiety.

From field to field scudded the partridges, sometimes a hare ran along the road as far as the cemetery and browsed on the graves of human ancestors, to requite these for having dined off his own ancestors. Or a lark fluttered from the field into the blue air of heaven, and there poured forth melody for its own delight, and also for our enjoyment. The field grew green with varied tints of emerald, grew pink and white with clover, grew yellow with beet-root, grew crimson with hosts of poppies—and in the midst of it all glistened the burial-ground, in the midst of the burial-ground stretched to heaven the ruddy cross with the white-iron figure of the Christus.

Here at eventide and at nightfall it was not so gay. No one was working in the field, no one spoke, the lark was asleep, and the green tint of the field was bathed in the sombre colours of evening and of night. And then these crosses which peered forth over the cemetery wall were just like heads and those heads looked just as if they were leaning on their hands, and it all peered forth over the wall at the carriage-road, and at any one who might be passing along it. The tall ruddy cross in the centre raised on high its desolate arms, on which, in windy weather, thumped the white-iron figure of the Christus. From the burial-ground a bat flitted forth—after this there was nothing for it but that the wayfarer should cast a timid glance at the bone-house, to see whether something was not there also glowering from the window, and then lastly he must fain cast a glance at the dwelling of the grave-digger to see whether there was a light in the window or whether those windows also were lost in ghostly fantasies.

At eventide and at nightfall few of the villagers cared to take a walk hither, and any one whose road led along the ridge of the hill or on either side of it, preferred to diverge I know not how


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 many miles through lanes and by-ways rather than allow himself to be surprised at night in the neighbourhood of the burial-ground. As to dwelling here day after day and night after night, for a whole year, for all one’s life—you might have built a golden palace on the spot and I know not whether you would have found in the whole country-side a man to inhabit it.

Logic sometimes makes strange skips. All will perceive that a place which every one shuns after dark is one of perfect security. A child might stand a siege there, and the puniest could put to flight the staunchest-hearted. And yet every grown-up person would have considered himself a poor creature if he had settled there as grave-digger. And yet, on the other hand, he thought to himself that the grave-digger ought to be a perfect Hercules to bear calmly all the horrors of the place—the glowering of the crosses over the wall, the thumping of the tinned figure of the Christus, the flittering of the bats, the desolateness of the bone-house, and similar things.

By a strange coincidence it happened that the grave-digger was the Hercules of the neighbourhood, Bartos, about whom whole books might be written. If Bartos had ever said, “I will give battle to a ghost”, every one would have wagered that Bartos would get the best of the encounter—such a man and no other was cut out to be a grave-digger in a lonely cemetery. So then, perhaps, it came to pass that the popular logic argued backwards, as thus: because the present grave-digger, Bartos, was the Hercules of the neighbourhood, it followed that only a Hercules was fit to be a grave-digger in that spot.

How many a story of his strength was recounted by credible eye-witnesses. Once on Sunday, when Bartos was on the spree, there drove into Frishets a drag full of soldiers on leave, and in their insolence they chevied the people hither and thither and struck at every one who approached their vehicle. Hereupon arose a panic in the village, people ran out of the ale-house and among them Bartos. Bartos seized hold of the horses, held them back, and held back even the vehicle. But, thereby, he effected but little, because he could not approach the carriage seeing that the soldiers struck out at every one. “Come and hold the horses! come and hold the horses!” shouted Bartos to his neighbours. And when the neighbours held the horses Bartos crept under the carriage, arched his back against it, lifted it off the ground and upset it, so that the soldiers fell out of it and then the citizens were quit of them. Never in their lives had the


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 soldiers suffered such a reverse, even from an enemy, as on this occasion.

In these parishes it was a custom to test the strength by charging at one another face to face. Folks only tried it once with Bartos—never a second time; at the second fling, he sent every one spinning, his opponent staggered backward and it was a wonder if he did not fall.

Also, “the hook” was a frequent mode of exercise. Two men clasped the bight of a large hook with the fingers and thumb and then pulled against one another across a table. Come and try “the hook”; no one tried against Bartos more than once. He always gave way the first time, but at the second bout he dragged along his adversary together with the table, then his adversary for a couple of days had to nurse his thumb in cold water.

As he was strong so he had artifice. Once he went homewards by night in winter wrapt in his cloak. There fell upon him four footpads, and in order that he should not escape they muffled him in his own cloak. But Bartos tore away from beneath the chain which served for a clasp at the neck—glided out of the cloak like an eel, and soon put all his enemies to rout.

In order that no one should be surprised that highwaymen should fall on a grave-digger, I must say at once that he was well-known to carry money about his person. In those days strong boxes and savings banks were not yet invented. People, therefore, who were possessed of wealth lodged their money with Bartos, because he dwelt in a cemetery, and because he was strong. It became the custom of the neighbourhood to have their money buried in the ground by Bartos at his abode. Thus Bartos seldom or never went to or from a village without carrying silver in his pockets, sometimes a hundred pieces or more. Just as any one wanted money or was flush of it, Bartos brought it or carried it away. Hence we may see also that people built on his tried honesty as on a rock.

If he went to more distant villages at nightfall, and had to go by a wood, and he was apprehensive of danger, he laid himself somewhere behind the bushes, teamed the money into his boots, and so slept till morning. Or if it was cold he laid himself somewhere beside a dunghill, thrust his feet into it, and slept thus.

Once they almost had him. Hereupon he turned round, and cried out, “If you do not decamp, I will plunge this knife into your


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 It appears, therefore, that the primary thing in the university idea, both in time and in thought, is the association in a certain way of the teacher and his pupils. "Universities," says Dr. Döllinger, "originated as free associations of respected teachers and eager scholars." This does not, indeed, sufficiently define the modern university, but. it describes an essential and indestructible factor of it. Now, if we attempt further to describe the modern university in the light of the ancient idea, we find that it differs from the university of the Middle Ages chiefly with respect to the extent and variety of means in command for the realization of this idea. The idea to be realized, and the general conception of the method necessary for its realization, remain the same. The idea to be realized is the highest scientific culture of the individual, and the method deemed necessary for its realization is the right association of the teacher and pupil. The one word which, beyond all others, describes this method is "freedom."

The university teacher must have freedom in investigating and teaching; the pupil must have freedom in investigating and learning (Lehrfreiheit and Lernfreiheit). But freedom that does not degenerate into license is secured in the teacher by selecting a man of formed character, who has himself gone over the same path of patient, conscientious, wide, and deep research by which he


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 bodies.” The chaps took fright and fled, but Bartos had merely a splinter of wood in his hand in place of a knife.

Of his youthful experiences especially, many stories were told. He was once in an ale-house where music was playing, and the lads were disputing who should have the honour of dancing a solo.

When they could in no wise determine among themselves, Bartos stepped up to the table, behind which sat the musicians, clapped his fist down upon it, and shouted out, “Play me a solo.” The musicians tuned up, and Bartos had already begun to spin round in the waltz with some damsel or other. But his comrades would not leave him in peace. Like one man they clubbed together against him, and tried to hinder him from dancing. Bartos let go his partner, caught the foremost of the lads with one hand by the neck, with the other hand by the girdle, lifted him off his feet high in the air, began to chevy the others with him, to strike them blindly with him, and to press them towards the doorway until he pressed them through it; then he flung the one whom he had held by the neck and the girdle among them, and said, “Take him, it was he who worsted you.” Then he looked around for his partner, she was cowering under a bench in a corner of the room and trembled all over. Says Bartos, “Just come out of that”, and then to the musicians, “You have not finished playing us the solo.” Never in her life had the damsel danced as she did that day. The servants peeped in at the window to see how she and Bartos danced together, and he danced until he was out of breath. When he could not make another step, he called to those who stood outside, “Now you may come in, now I will let you have your turn.”

But Bartos was by no means a gross tyrannical sort of giant. Never in his life had he ever challenged any one, never in his life had he ever given the first blow, after that, if he gave one, it was scored in the popular memory. Nor was he the least at feud with the gentry in public offices, only that there again he had a tongue in its proper place and lammed into them with words. He had no fear of persons, be they gentle or humble; of the gentry still less than of the humble.

He carried money for his neighbours to the public offices and into the city; who, pray, could take it into the town more securely, who, pray, could do their business for them better than Bartos? But God preserve the official who dared to touch him even with a harsh look! Or just fancy if they had threatened him with the


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 offers to lead the pupil. He still travels daily in this same path. The pupil, on his part, is free to choose his teacher and his subjects of research; and his freedom is secured, as much as possible, against license by his having been prepared for freedom through the rigorous training, under law, of the secondary education, and through the example and inspiration of his teacher and of the entire community of which he forms a part. He must learn to "know from experience," as says Professor von Sybel, "what is the meaning of emancipation of the individual mind, scientific thoroughness, and free depth of thought."

Such freedom in scientific research and teaching as the university uses to attain its end of the highest scientific culture is not, however, to be considered as separable from character. For, in the words of another German professor, " genuine science is the foundation of genuine freedom of spirit. Universities are, therefore, places for the formation of genuine freedom of spirit. They could not be this if they were directed in a one-sided way to the setting free and forming of intelligence. Freedom of spirit without the formation of character is not conceivable. Only the unity of the formation of intelligence and character is genuine freedom of spirit."

The true end of the university is, then, the highest scientific culture of the individual, and its peculiar


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 method is the most intelligent and highly trained freedom in research, in teaching, and in learning. This end and this method served at the beginning to distinguish the schools of the university order from the monastic and ecclesiastical schools; they may fitly serve still as setting the ideal to which the American university must conform itself. Writers so widely divergent in their views and ways of thought as Matthew Arnold and Cardinal Newman are in substantial agreement as to the end at which the genuine university aims. This end is not, then, primarily the preparation of the pupil for any particular employment or profession, or even for being a good and useful citizen in general. University culture, does, indeed, tend strongly to produce good and useful service of every kind, and good and useful citizenship; but this is its indirect tendency rather than its direct primary aim. For example, Professor Payne, in pleading for a science of education, reminds Englishmen of Sir Bartle Frere's conviction that " the acknowledged and growing power of Germany is intimately connected with the admirable education which the great body of the German nation are in the habit of receiving;" as well as of the declaration of a writer in the "Times": "I think the maintenance of our commercial superiority is very much of a schoolmaster's question;" and of the statement of another writer that "the