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head to the variations of temperature, for which our climate is so remarkable, leads to serious diseases. Inflammation of the eyes, diseases of the ears, colds in the various organs of the head and neck, are all frequently traceable to the prevailing fashion. This statement may, perhaps, be doubted by some persons who may say, " I do not know of any one who has had opthhalmia from wearing a new bonnet;" but inquiry at any institution where patients are treated in large numbers, will prove that every great change in fashion is attended with an influence on the health; and it was remarked that when the present style of female head-dress came into fashion, it was attended with, or rather followed by, a notable increase in disorders affecting the visual organs. The influence of fashion in other articles of attire is still more marked; but enough has been said to direct the attention of our readers to the subject.

for fifteen minutes ; next sift into it a tablespoonful and a half of powdered sassafras, to give it the fillet; leave it two ' or three minutes longer on the fire, and serve it very hot. No spices but black pepper. This dish will require more or less time to prepare, according to the ingredients of which it is composed. For chicken or turkey gumbo, the fowl must first be fricasseed. Any good cook will understand how to make a piquant and palatable stock of whatever she may select for her gumbo. Game or Poultry Soup.-An excellent, clear soup can be made with scraps and bones of game or of poultry, boiled down with a little bacon, vegetables, such as carrots, onions, leaks, turnips, tomatoes, celery, parsley, etc., and spices, and sweet herbs, cunningly proportioned. When the whole is well boiled, strain and clear it, then serve either plain or with maccaroni or bread-sippets. If the soup be made of game, (or, indeed, of any other clear soup,) the addition of a glass of sherry is an improvement.

PARLOR PETS. PARASITES IN BIRDCAGES.-Many a person has watched with anxiety and care a pet canary, goldfinch, or other tiny favorite, evidently in a state of perturbation, plucking at himself continually, his feathers standing all wrong, always fidgeting about, and in every way looking very seedy. In vain is his food changed, in vain is another saucer of clean water always kept in his cage, and all that kindness can suggest for the little prisoner done ; but still all is of no use, he is no better. And why? Because the cause of his wretchedness has not been found out, and until it is other attempts are but vain. If the owner of a pet in such difficulties will take down the cage and cast his or her eyes up to the roof thereof, there will most likely be seen a mass of stuff looking as much like red rust as anything, and thence comes the cause of the poor bird's uneasiness. The red rust is nothing more nor less than myriads of parasites infesting the bird, and for which water is no remedy. There is, however, a remedy, and one easily procurable in a moment-fire. By procuring a lighted candle and holding it under every particle of the top of the cage till all chance of anything being left alive is gone, the remedy is complete. The pet will soon brighten up again after his " house warming," and will in his cheerful and delightful way thank his master or mistress over and over again for this, though slight, to him important assistance.

MEATS AND POULTRY. Collared Beef-Eight pounds of the thin flank, rubbed over with two handfuls of salt, and one ounce of saltpetre. Let it lay a week in this, turning it every day. Then prepare the following ingredients : Six sprigs of winter savory, six small sprigs of thyme, peel of half a small lemon, half an ounce of white pepper, quarter of an ounce of cloves, and one nutmeg. Bruise the spice, and chop the herbs well; roll them up in the beef by spreading them over it thickly first; tie it tightly with tape at each end, and in the middle ; roll it in a coarse cloth, and boil gently for three hours. Ragout of Cold Neck of Mutton.-Cut the mutton into small chops, and trim off the greater portion of the fat; put butter into a stewpan, dredge in a little flour, add two sliced onions, and keep stirring till brown, then put in the meat. When this is quite brown, add water, and a couple of carrots and turnips, each of which should be cut into very thin slices ; season with pepper and salt, and stew till quite tender, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour. When in season, green peas may be substituted for carrots and turnips ; they should be piled in the center of the dish, and the chops laid round. Veal Rolls ofEither Cold Meat or Fresh.- Cut thin slicesand spread on them a fine seasoning of a very few crumbs, a little chopped bacon or scraped ham, and a little suet, parsley, and a shalot, or, if preferred, some fresh mushrooms stewed and minced, pepper, salt, and a small piece of pounded mace. This stuffing may either fill up the roll like a sausage, or be rolled with the meat. In either case tie it up very light, and stew it very slowly in a gravy and a glass of sherry. Serve it when tender, after skimming it nicely. Rich Gravy for Roast Fowl.-Cut small one pound of gravy beef, slice two onions, and put them in a stewpan with a quart of water, some whole black pepper, a small carrot, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; simmer till reduced to one pint; strain the gravy, and pour it into another stewpan, upon two ounces of butter browned with two tablespoonfuls of flour ; stir and boil up. To "Devil" Turkey.-Mix a little salt, black pepper, and Cayenne, and sprinkle the mixture over the gizzard, rump, and drumstick of a dressed turkey ; broil them, and serve very hot with this sauce; mix with some of the gravy out of the dish, a little made mustard, some butter and flour, a spoonful of lemon-juice, and the same of soy; boil up the whole. Shoulder of Mutton.-A shoulder of mutton, weighing about six pounds, requires one hour and a half to roast ; if stuffed, a quarter of an hour longer. Before cooking it, take out the bone, and fill the space with a dressing of bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, parsley, sweet marjoram, one egg, and a small piece of butter, mixed together.

OUR NEW COOK- BOOK. Every receipt in this Cook-Book has been tested by a practical housekeeper. SOUPS. Imitation of Mock-Turtle.-Put into a pan a knuckle of veal, two fine cowheels or two calve's feet, two onions, a few cloves, peppers, berries of allspice, mace, and sweet herbs: cover them with water, then tie a thick paper over the pan and set it in an oven for three hours. When cold take off the fat very nicely ; cut the meat and feet into bits an inch and a half square ; remove the bones and coarse parts, and then put the rest on to warm, with a large spoonful of walnut and one of mushroom catchup, half a pint of sherry or Madeira wine, a little mushroom-powder, and the jelly of the meat. When hot, if it requires any further seasoning, add some, and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat-balls, a squeeze of lemon, and a spoonful of Boy. This is a very easy way, and the dish is excellent. Oyster Gumbo.- Mix well one tablespoonful of flour and one of lard, and brown the mixture in a frying-pan; take the liquor of two quarts of oysters, set it on the fire, and when it boils, add the brown flour with chopped lecks and parsley ; then put in the oysters, and let the whole simmer

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 answer, for it is next to impossible for any one to determine just what series of causes lead to any specific action which he may have taken.

There are a great many people, some of whom belong to fraternities and others of whom do not, who have the feeling that there are only two types of people in the world—those who are elected and those who are damned, those who get in and those who stay out, those who join and those who do not. My experience has led me to the conclusion that there is mighty little difference, and that the man who does not join usually came out of the same dust heap as the man who does.

An acquaintance of mine, herself a member of a college sorority which she considers the best on the market, related to me not long ago the details of a tearful interview through which she had just passed with one of her sisters in the bond. The incident which had been the instigating cause of the lachrymal outburst was the announcement of the engagement of a third sister. Now an engagement is ordinarily no cause for weeping; quite the contrary in fact. In this case, however, the horrible and disgraceful fact had been divulged that the young man in question was not a member of any fraternity. This misguided young woman had somehow absorbed the erroneous impression that

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OUR ARM- CHAIR.

HEALTH DEPARTMENT.

OUR ARM- CHAIR. NEW PIANO-BOOK.- SEVENTY-FIVE DOLLARS WORTH OF MUSIC FOR THREE DOLLARS.-The best compositions of "Strauss," " Godfrey," " C. Faust," " Gungl," etc. All the latest first-class Music. THE CIRCLE OF BRILLIANTS, a new Collection of Piano Music. 224 pages, large music size, extra fine paper, containing 32 full sets of Waltzes, such as "Mabel," " Guards," " Village Swallows," " Scheiden," " On Wings of Night," " Leap Year," " Peri," " Corn Flower," "Dream on the Ocean," etc.; 25 Galops-" Bride of the Wind," " Ida," " Helter Skelter," " Cataract," " Through the Air," " Up and Down," " Hurley Burley," " Columbanus," etc.; 20 Marches and Quicksteps-" Millanollo," "Freiderichs," " Wedding," etc.; 20 Piano Pieces (Variations, Transcriptions, etc.)-" Shower of Pearls," " Carnival of Venice," " The Kiss," " Soldier's Chorus," " Dew Drop," etc.; 40 Redowas, Mazurkas, Polkas, Schottisches, etc."Dexter," " Plume," " Blue Bird Redowa." Price, in boards, morocco back, $3.00 ; cloth sides, Turkey morocco backs and corners, $4.00 ; same, full gilt, $5.00. A first-class Musical Present. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of ELIAS HOWE, 103 Court St., Boston. price.

"WASHINGTON PARTING FROM HIS GENERALS," a superb mezzotint for framing. Price, $2.00. "Bunyan's Wife Interceding for Him," another superb mezzotint. Price, $2.00. " Bunyan's Child in Jail with Him," a companion to the above, $2.00. Either two of these fine mezzotints, $3.00. Or the whole three $4.50. Address, C. J. PETERSON, No. 306 Chestnut street, Philadelphia. THE DUPLEX OR DOUBLE-SPRING SKIRT, manufactured by J. F. Bradley, is largely regarded as the most fashionable worn.

HEALTH DEPARTMENT. FASHION IN DRESS, like most other subjects, admits of being regarded from several points of view. It has its sanitary as well as its aesthetic side. It is true that the former aspect is less frequently noted than the latter; but it by no means follows that it is of less importance. To those who look beyond the present hour, the sanitary influence of the passing fashion on the welfare of its votaries is a point of much greater moment than its influence on their æsthetic perceptions. The latteris more or less tranAMERICAN TRIUMPH AT THE PARIS EXPOSITION.- Frank sient; the former endures for years, often even for life whose duration it not unfrequently shortens. Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper says :-" The first Euro- itself, Ifwe take into consideration the influence of the present pean exhibition of the Cabinet Organ has added a European reputation to that already achieved at home, and fashions prevailing amongst women, and test them by the another First Premium to the fifty-six awarded Messrs. ordinary laws of health, we shall find that some of them Mason & Hamlin at the Industrial Exhibitions of all the are most injurious to the well-being of the individual. For States of the United States. This is the well merited re- example: the prevailing style of boots, with high military heels and close constriction of the ankle, is opposed to ward of an industry which has always aimed in all its productions, not at cheapness, not at making something which every principle of physiology. The general form of the could be sold at a good profit, but at that which should be foot-covering worn at the present time, even by persons excellent in every respect- so thoroughly and conscien- who are not regarded as followers of fashion, is most intiously made as to defy competition. The pride of Messrs.jurious. The natural form of the foot is to have the great Mason & IIamlin has never been to produce an instrument toe in a straight line with its inner side. Fashion has dicfor the smallest sum of money, but one that was as good tated that our boots and shoes should be more or less as skill, and science, and perseverance could make it. Their pointed, and the result is that the toes are wedged together, the great toe being thrust outward toward the motto has always been-' The best are the cheapest.' " others. By long-continued usage of shoes of this shape, feet become more or less misshapen, and it is imposthe " THE GREAT AMERICAN TEA COMPANY, 31 and 33 Vesey sible to discover one person in a thousand whose feet are street, New York," writes a correspondent, " sells all kinds not deformed. of Teas, the finest included, cheaper at retail than most of This evil, great as if is, is vastly increased by the present the country grocers can buy at wholesale, for the reason that they buy by the cargo at a large discount from job- style of high heel, which causes the weight of the body to thrown forward on the toes, and wedges them still more bing prices. Parties clubbing together, each one subscrib- be ing for the number of pounds and kinds he wants, as he tightly into the front of the shoe. Nature has made the would for a newspaper or a magazine, save from thirty heel broad, so as to afford a firm basis of support ; but the to forty cents on a pound. Each parcel is marked with present style demands a small heel, which gives but an the subscriber's name, and all sent in one package to the insecure foundation, and throws a great strain on the person who sends the order. and a complimentary package ankle-joint when the foot is placed on an irregular surface ; whilst the free play of the joint is prevented by the boot to him for his trouble, when the money sent is over thirty being tightly-laced around it. The effect of this constric dollars. " tion in causing the wasting of the muscles of the leg may THE BEST CATALOGUE of cheap, yet good books for read- be seen in those countrymen who wear tightly-laced boots ing, is that of T. B. Peterson & Brothers. If you wish to of this character. Let us trace the permanent result of this fashion . It buy an entertaining novel, especially, send for their catalogue, in which you will find the titles of some five hun- may be seen in corns, bunions, deformed feet, followed by dred excellent fictions, by popular authors. Their address an inability, more or less marked, to take pedestrian exeris T. B. Peterson & Brothers, No. 306 Chestnut street, cise. This want of exercise, in its turn, reacts on the conPhiladelphia, Pa. stitution, and permanent ill-health is the frequent result. Passing from the feet to the head, what can be said in WEBSTER'S UNABRIDGED DICTIONARY is said to be a neces- favor of the present style of bonnet? If a head-dress is sity to the library of every intelligent family, student, required at all, it must be because it answers some useful teacher, and professional man. Hon. George P. Marsh de- purpose, and serves to shelter the wearer, in some degree, clares it unquestionably the best English Dictionary ex- against the variations of the weather-because it should tant. " Superior, in most respects, to any other English shield the eyes from the glare of the sun, the head from Dictionary known to him." the extremes of heat or cold, or the undue influence of the wind. It is needless to say that the present bonnet does THE PEOPLE'S EDITION OF DICKENS, published by T. B. none of these things, and, except as an expensive and not Peterson & Brothers, combines elegance and cheapness in very graceful ornament, is without any utility whatever. But the evil does not rest here; the undue exposure of the a higher degree than any edition in the field.

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 * "The Transfer" (1912), a short story by Algernon Blackwood
 * "The Transfer" (1917), an essay by Thomas Arkle Clark

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 unless one belongs to a college fraternity he is hopelessly lost in a social way.

As I said at the outset, very few colleges have organizations enough to take in all the new men who arrive at each fall opening. In point of fact there are not enough Greek-letter fraternities in existence to supply such a demand. In theory, perhaps, it might be a good thing if there were; but in practice I am afraid that difficulties would frequently arise. I have known undergraduates in college who would disorganize heaven if they ever got in—or hades, and who, like some of our recent political candidates, would never be happy or contented in any organization unless they were themselves the whole of it. I have never investigated the results in those colleges where an attempt has been made to break up all the student body into groups, but I have little faith in it as a successful unifying and harmonizing process. Some men do not want to belong to anything; they wish most of all to be let alone, to form no associations with either students or faculty. They come to college to get an education, they say, and that means to study books and to acquire facts.

Such men have little that is gregarious in their make up. They like to work by themselves, they are restless and unhappy if they have a companion, and they would not join anything, not


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 REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS.

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Gemma. By T. A. Trollope. 1 vol., 12 mo. Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.-This is one of the pleasantest novels we have read for years. The scene is laid in Siena, which every one who has visited Italy will remember for its wonderful cathedral, its old palaces, and its many vestiges of middle-age liberty. The story, however, is one of modern Italian life, and the plot exhibits very unusual skill; the interest begins at once, and continues breathNEVER BUY A BONNET merely because it is pretty. Itlessly to the close. The heroine, Gemma, and her haughty should also be becoming. Not only the colors, but the rival, are finely delineated ; so are the two physicians ; so style, should suit your face, complexion, etc., etc. This also is the old Marquis and the young lover. The loveseems self-evident, but it is a thing, we are sorry to say, scenes, for it is emphatically a love story, are drawn with to which very little attention is paid. a delicacy that we do not often soo in fiction. The country around Siena, the desolate Maremma on the coast, and the SAVE A DOLLAR.-Remember that the price of this Maga- lonely mountains are depicted with wonderfully graphic zine is only two dollars a year, while all the other first- power. We recommend the novel to people of taste especlass magazines are three, or four dollars. Single subscribers can get " Peterson" for less than the club prices cially. Price, in cloth, $2.00 ; in paper, $1.50. New Poems. By Matthew Arnold. 1 vol., 16 mo. Boston: of similar magazines. Ticknor & Fields.-Mr. Arnold is the son of the celebrated Dr. Arnold, late Principal of Rugby School Mr. Arnold NOTHING IS MORE PREJUDICIAL to the growth of the hair than the fashion, now prevailing, of wearing large masses himself was for many years Professor of Poetry at Oxford University. As a poet he is not entitled to the first rank ; of artificial tresses. but he is very much more than a mere versifier. The preGOLD HAIR is again the rage in Paris. It has driven sent volume contains a loug dramatic poem, " Empedocles dark hair and walnut-dyed complexions out of the field. on Etna," and about thirty smaller pieces. Some of the latter are quite beautiful. Price, in cloth, $2.00. THE JANUARY NUMBER will be ready by the first of Manual of Physical Exercises. By William Wood. 1 vol., December. Get up your clubs and remit in time. 12 mo. New York: Harper & Brothers .-A really valuable work. The author is an instructor in physical exercises, and tells, in this volume, all about gymnastics, calisthenics, REVIEW OF NEW BOOKS. skating, rowing, base-ball, etc., etc. A hundred and twentyLetters from Europe. By John W. Forney. 1 vol., 12 mo. five engravings illustrate the text. Price, in cloth, $1.50. Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.-During the Spring Elsie's Married Life. By Mrs. Mackenzie Daniel. 1 vol., and Summer of this year Col. Forney was in Europe, and, 8vo. Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.-This is a reprint we believe, for the first time. In this volume, therefore, of a late English novel, and has been published from the we have the impressions made on a mature mind, and a advance sheets. It is a very interesting story, with more thoroughly American one, by the older civilizations of the originality than usual in fictions of cotemporary life. world, seen as a new fact. Col. Forney has beheld political Price, in paper, seventy-five cents. life, in this country, in every phase, and has, therefore, a Caste. By the author of " Mr. Arle." 1 vol., 8 vo. New peculiar fitness for instituting comparisons between the York: Harper & Brothers.-A well written novel, but workings ofpolitical institutions in Europe and here. It is hardly a pleasant one. The story turns on the social in this aspect especially that these letters have value. Col. inequality which is so marked a feature in English life. Forney does not pretend to discuss art, as Norton or Hil- Price, in paper, fifty cents. dreth did; he does not sketch the poetical aspects of EuLeyton Hall, and Other Tales. By Mark Lemon. 1 vol., ropean life, as Howell does ; but he writes about the rates S vo. Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.-The principal of wages here and abroad, the relative social condition of the masses, and other loftier themes which interest the story in this volume is one of the times of Charles the First, and has very considerable dramatis power. The shorter philanthopist and patriot. The letters originally appeared tales are also effective. Price, in paper, seventy-five cents. in the " Philadelphia Press," and were so popular that Leah: or, The Jewish Maiden. 1 vol., 8 vo. Phllada : T. numerous requests were made to reissue them in a volume. Accordingly, they have been reprinted, after being care- B. Peterson & Brothers. This is the story from which the fully revised and enlarged, and now appear in this hand- popular play of the same name has been dramatized. We some volume of five hundred pages. Price, in cloth, $2.00 ; believe it has never before been published in the United States. Price, in paper, fifty cents. in paper covers, $1.50. Devereux. By Lord Lytton (Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton.) Harem Life in Egypt and Constantinople. By Emmeline 1 vol., 16 mo. Philada: J. B. Lippincott & Co.- The fifth Lott. 1 vol., 12 mo. Philada: T. B. Peterson & Brothers.The author of this volume was formerly governess to the volume of the beautiful " Globe Edition" of Bulwer's son and heir of Ismael Pacha, Viceroy of Egypt, and had, novels, of which, in former numbers, wo have spoken so therefore, unusual facilities for seeing and studying the highly. Price, in cloth, $1.50. secluded life of the women of the East. To ladies, espeLittle Dorritt. By Charles Dickens. 1 vol., 16 mo. New cially, the book will prove very interesting. We should York: Hurd & Houghton.- This is the eighth of that popular like to make some extracts, if we could afford the space ; series, " The Globe Dickens." The type of this edition is but as we cannot do that, we advise our readers to send for unusually handsome. Price, in cloth, $1.50. the work. Price, in cloth, $2.00 ; in paper, $1.50. With Gen. Sheridan in Lee's Last Campaign. By a Staff The Complete Poetical Works of J. G. Whittier. 1 vol., Oficer. 1 vol., 12 mo. Philada: J. B. Lippincott & Co.- A 21 mo. Boston: Ticknor & Fields.- This is a "Diamond neat volume, containing a portrait of Gen. Sheridan and a Edition" of Whittier, uniform with the " Diamond Tenny- map. The narrative is spirited . Price, in extra cloth, $1.75. son" and "Diamond Longfellow ." The print, as in all The Curate's Discipline. By Mrs. Eiloart. 1 vol., 8 vo. these " Diamond Editions," is too small ; injurious even to New York: Harper & Brothers.- An excellent novel, by a young eyes: otherwise the book is to be recommended. new author, reprinted from the London edition. Price, in Price, in cloth , $1.50. paper, fifty cents. OUR COLORED PATTERN for this month is a very brilliant affair. This is the only Magazine which gives these colored patterns every month. No American magazine ever printed as elegant a colored pattern as that in this number. The pattern for January, however, will be vastly more superb : it will be, in fact, the costliest and handsomest even we have ever issued.

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 even the army or the church, unless they were forced to do so. One of these I recall at this moment quite vividly. He was a quiet, studious fellow, an only child who at home had had his own room and followed his own methods of work. He had never been interfered with; neither his books nor his bureau drawers had ever before been overturned. When he wanted to study or to meditate he sought the quietest isolation. When he came to college he was at once caught in the maelstrom of rushing, and before he came to himself he found that some one had decorated his lapel with a particolored pledge button. But this fact brought no joy to him: he was restless, discontented, melancholy, revolutionary, and the outcome of it all was that he gave back the button, found a room by himself, and settled down to a quiet, hermit life such as pleased him. There are many like him, and if they want to be happy, rather than to form friendships, they do not join.

There are those, too, who do not like to be mixed up in things. If something exciting is being perpetrated they would rather go in the other direction. They never run to a fire; they pursue a doctor's degree or a hobby; they enjoy the outskirts rather than John Street. Such a man the fraternity would undoubtedly help to educate far more than many another agency, but he usually


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 EDITOR'S

TABLE.

EDITORIAL CHIT - CHAT. SHOWING THE FEET.-The N. Y. Times has some excellent " PETERSON" FOR 1868.- Our Prospectus for next year will remarks apropos of the new fashion in walking dresses. It be found on the cover. It is now conceded everywhere says :-" There is one little fact our ladies seem to overlook that " Peterson" is better and cheaper than any periodical in the effect of the recent fashions. In other days, when of its kind. The strongest proof of this, perhaps, is, that trailing skirts were the mode, the habits of twenty years our circulation, in 1867, has not only been larger than led the whole generation of women, whether they had exever, but has equaled that of all the other ladies' magazines perienced the whole twenty years or accepted their results from elders, to use their feet in a very careless manner. combined. Our Prospectus does not tell everything, however. Each Walking, standing, or sitting, the awkwardnesses of femiyear we do better than we promise. This year, we gave nine feet must have developed to an extent unthought of, sixty pages more of printed matter than we did in 1866 : because unseen. But since the short walking dress has almost enough to make an extra number. Two years ago come into style, these infelicities of movement and of pose we gave only single fashion-plates ; now we give mammoth are revealed, and many a lady, under the secure consciousones, at twice the cost. And all our improvements have ness of the former habit, will walk the street, or sit in the been made without raising the price. "Peterson" was two cabin of the ferry-boat with her feet in such positions as dollars before the war, and is only two dollars now, though would, in her own eyes, instantly stamp any man indulging the cost of printing paper, as well as of all kinds of labor in them as a candidate for the ' awkward squad.' We know engaged on the Magazine, has nearly doubled. Some may it is supposed to be highly improper to observe a lady's wonder how we can do this. The answer is, we find our feet; but when, by reason either ofgrace or clumsiness, they remuneration in a larger circulation. Small profits on a attract attention, they will be observed ; and the present walking dress affords ample opportunity for the display of big edition are better than big profits on a small one. Our arrangements in Paris enable us to anticipate all either of those qualities." others in our fashions. The public verdict has pronounced that our mammoth fashion-plates are not only more re" PETERSON'S MAGAZINE," says the Wilmington (Del.) Comliable than those of other magazines, but more beautiful { mercial, " enjoys the reputation of being the cheapest and stylish also. Our contributors, including Mrs. Ann S. monthly of its class, while its steel engravings, fashionStephens, Mrs. R. Harding Davis, Frank Lee Benedict, etc., plates, original novelets, and short stories, are fully equal etc., have no rivals in their line; and the reason is, we pay to those contained in higher priced rivals. " more for literary matter than all the rest of the ladies' magazines together. We believe we have made " Peterson" the A WISE OBSERVER said that English women talked of best thing of its kind; and we are determined to keep it each others looks, and French women of each others dress. 60, no matter at what cost. The latter were the more charitable. A woman cannot The cheapness of this Magazine is a point to which we help her looks, but she can her dress. Taste may be wish our friends to call particular attention. Everything acquired, but beauty never. that is to be had in the higher priced magazines is to be had here for less money; and much ofit, as the newspapers BETTER THAN EVER.-The Liberty (Va ) Chronicle says :declare universally, of even a better quality than else- "Our old favorite, Peterson's Magazine, is better, if poswhere. sible, than ever before. It is the cheapest and best ladies' Now is the time to get up clubs! Everybody will subscribe Magazine published. Young man, you can't make a more for " Peterson," if its claims are fairly presented. Be the appropriate present to your sweetheart." first in thefield. A specimen will be sent, gratis, if written for, to show to acquaintances, so that you need not injure FASHION AND BEAUTY.-Never spend more money than your own copy. Don't lose a moment! you can afford. But one of a woman's objects is to beautify herself: and to do this dress your very best. The cheapest THE BEST DRESSED WOMEN in Europe are those in Paris. way to dress well is to know exactly what the fashion is. After Paris comes Vienna and Frankfort on the Main. SUITED US THE BEST.-The Kingston (N. Y.) Press says :Then Milan, Rome, and Naples. Berlin and London bring up the rear. The English ladies are the worst dressed of "With an admiration for writers of other magazines, we all: they do not show as much taste even as those of must say that those of ' Peterson' always suited us the Prussia. The truth is, Frenchwomen seem to have a cer- best." tain artistic feeling in dress which is denied to Northern Germany and to England. The supremacy of Paris is, LADIES' BOOTS are now made very high up the leg, the therefore, well-earned, and will be permanent, whatever most fashionable of black silk, with deep crimson silk tops, may be said to the contrary. The French capital is the and with black silk covering the tall heels. center ofcotemporary luxury and fashion, and will remain so certainly for generations, perhaps throughout all moALL THE STORIES IN " PETERSON" are written originally dern civilization. It is the arbiter of taste in other things for it We do not make up our Magazine with old stories beside female dress, and must, from the very condition of copied from English periodicals. things, continue so. We doubt if a pretty female costume was ever designed out of Paris : certainly we never saw SCARLET LEATHER HIGH-HEELED SHOES, with scarlet ribone; and all that can be done is, for the rest of the world bon rosettes, in the center of which are gold buckles, are to copy the more elegant taste of the French in dress. much worn in Paris. NEVER SPEAK AN ANGRY WORD.-If you quarrel with a " PETERSON'S MAGAZINE," says the Bucyrus (0.) Forum , friend, and that friend dies, you will regret, so long as you "is filled with the most valuable reading matter to be live, the harsh language you used. found in any work ofthe sort now before the public." 466

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 manages to keep his feet out of the snare. If he is invited out he has an engagement; he has little desire to be done good. At the present time with us the tendency is to crowd about the campus; the more congested things are the better the ordinary student likes it. If he lives east of the campus during his freshman year where life is quiet and regular, by the time he has become an upperclassman he has moved to the west side where all the men's organizations are located and where there is something doing. Yet with all this tendency there are still some fellows who prefer the isolation which may be found beyond the towns, and of their own initiative seek out those places which are far removed from the crowd.

The selfish, headstrong man often does not join when he is asked, and I did not mean to suggest that either of the two sorts I have previously mentioned are to be counted in this class. One has to yield his own desires if he gets on comfortably in any partnership or organization, even in marriage or the grain business. Brotherhood even of the most unsentimental character is a matter of daily if not of hourly concessions and consideration of the profit or the comfort of others. If one is incapable of such sacrifice and of the real happiness and satisfaction which results from it, he ordinarily is wise enough to go his own way, and


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 KNITTED JACKET

FOR

A

CHILD

FROM FOUR TO TWELVE MONTHS OF AGE. BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS.-One ounce and a quarter of white, quarter of an ounce of red Berlin wool ; thick steel needles. This jacket fastens behind, and is commenced from the under edge. Cast on one hundred and thirty- six stitches, and work backward and forward. First, for the border, knit five plain rows with red wool, then one row quite plain with white wool, thirteen rows of two plain and two purled, alternately, then four rows plain with red wool, one row of six plain ; put the thread round the needle, and knit two together, alternately, so as to form separate holes, then two rows quite plain. After finishing the border in this manner, knit twenty rows plain, then in the 22nd, 42nd, 94th, and 114th stitches of the twentyfirst row make two stitches, and increase in every second row in this manner ; but care must be taken that the number from one increase to the other under the arm remains always equal toward the front. In the hinder middle there is, however, an increase. At the end of the forty-fifth row there must be one hundred and eighty-eight stitches upon the needle. In the forty-sixth row cast off for the armholes on both sides, and after the thirtyeighth and one hundred and forty-second stitch of the row cast off eight stitches, and work the front and back separately. Work eight rows on each of the back parts, then in the next twenty-one rows knit two stitches together plain at the end of each row, for the shoulder, until the number is reduced to twenty-six. After the twenty-first row cast off loosely. Afterward, in knitting the front part, in the

first seven rows decrease at the beginning and end, then knit twelve rows without any increase or decrease, then leave forty stitches in the middle for the slope for the throat, and work the shoulders with the stitches lying on both sides separately in twenty-two rows, and decrease regularly in each second row at the outer edge of the armhole side. At the opposite side, at the beginning of each second row, increase one stitch, so that the number remains the same; but the shoulder requires a sloped form, as shown in the design. After the twentysecond row, cast off and sew the shoulder, its end-stitch line to the sloped shoulder of the back part. Then take up the stitches left upon the needle in the middle of the front part, also the remainder of the slope for the neck as far as the long edge of the back part, and work six rows in white and two rows in red wool ; in the second white row, however, after every sixth stitch, put the thread round and knit two together, in order to make holes to pass the ribbon through. Take up also the stitches at the long edges of the back part, and knit seven rows, in the middle of which, on one side, make four button-holes fifteen stitches apart. For each button-hole knit two together twice, putting the thread round twice between them; place the buttons on the opposite side to close the jacket in the middle. Begin the sleeves at the under edge, and cast on forty stitches. Knit two rows of red, and then fourteen rows of white wool, alternately, two plain and two purled stitches ; then three rows in red wool, in the middle of which, after every sixth stitch, make a hole in the manner above described. At the beginning and end of the sixty following rows in white wool, increase one stitch in each sixth row ; then cast off in the two next (the sixty-first and sixty-second) rows fifty-one stitches at the beginning, in the following six rows two stitches at the beginning, in the following decrease four stitches, and finish the upper edge of the sleeve with the remaining stitches. Sew the sleeve stitch upon stitch into the armhole, so that the seam meets in the under middle. Draw a narrow white satin ribbon through the holes, and finish with a button at the top. 465

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 he keeps out of a fraternity. I remember a young fellow of this sort who came to college some two or three years ago. He wanted the honor and the prestige of belonging, he had an attractive exterior, and he was pledged in a short time. The life got on his nerves at once, however. He could not stand the restraint of the house, he could not bring himself to submit to rules, he could not yield, or follow directions. He wanted his own room, he objected to the food, he wanted his own comfort and his own way. He tried living out of the house for a while, but nothing was right; so he went back to his own isolated selfish life. The next fall he was bid by another fraternity, but it was not in him to get on unselfishly with anyone. So he soon gave up the pledge button and left college.

A great many men entering college would like to join a fraternity but feel that they cannot afford the expense which such a procedure would entail. Their going to college demands sacrifice on their part and on the part of the home folks, and they very wisely are not willing that this sacrifice should be made heavier simply for their own pleasure. It is true that every chapter at the University of Illinois, as at many other institutions, I have no doubt, contains members who have little means or who are partially or wholly self-supporting, but it cannot be denied that the ex-


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 CROCHET

EDGING.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

THIS edging is worked with fine cotton lengthwise ; see design. Crochet two interrupted treble rows, ( each two chain one treble, ) then one row of two treble, one chain over this. 4th row: A line of cross-treble, and again one interrupted treble row consisting of one chain, one treble. In the 6th row, work always five tripletreble, separated by one chain, (putting the

DESIGNS

FOR

thread round three times, ) in one treble of the preceding row; then one chain, with which two stitches are passed over, and four double-treble ; between these always one stitch of the preceding row is passed over. After one chain, the two stitches are again passed over; then repeat from * The following row consists of trebles er between each treble of the preceding row. the large treble crochet one chain between the trebles ; the three trebles, however, which meet between the four lying together are worked together as one treble, in which the upper threadstitch is always kept upon the needle, and at last all drawn through together at once. A little scallop line, consisting of three or four chain and one double, forms the outer conclusion of the edging.

NET

EMBROIDERY.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

THESE insertions are very pretty to put between tucks for chemisettes, chemises Russe, etc.

EMBROIDERY.

464

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 pense of living in a fraternity is greater than is required for one to live outside, and many of the best men in college who have plenty of opportunity to join stay out because they feel that they must live as economically as possible. These men often miss the close friendship and comradeship which they would find in the fraternity; often, however, they gather around themselves outside groups of friends who are bound as closely together as are the members of any fraternity organized. I have often heard it deplored that the fraternity is so organized as to shut out any worthy man, but as society is now organized similar instances may be found in any community to illustrate the fact that many of the good things which we would enjoy we are deprived of because we cannot afford to pay for them. The man who is forced to work his way through college, as many of us know from experience, cannot always ride in the Pullman or attend the formal party. He may gain something in independence and self-reliance, but he will of necessity have to sacrifice many much desired pleasures.

Not a few fellows who would like very much to be fraternity men never have an opportunity. It is against fraternity conventionalities for anyone to express interest in joining or desire to join. It would be considered quite as unpardonable a breach of etiquette for a freshman unasked to


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 NEW DESIGN FOR

ORNAMENTAL COMB.

463

of the preceding row ; between these, regularly, 3rd row: Alternately one treble, one scallop alternately three chain, a picot turning down- picot, as in the outer row of the medallion, one ward consisting of four chain, one single, which chain, in which the treble is divided. latter must be worked in the first of the four 4th row: Likewise crochet * one double, three chain. chain, one picot, three chain. Repeat from *.

NEW

DESIGN

FOR

ORNAMENTAL

COMB.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS.-1 yards, 1 inch wide velvet or watered ribbon ; and some jet beads of two sizes ; and six small jet drops. Our design is so full in detail that a description is almost needless ; but for the benefit of those who are novices in this kind of work, a few hints may be useful. The cross-piece, Nó. 2, forming the comb, is to be mounted upon a piece of pasteboard covered with silk, same color as the velvet used ; this is to be ornamented with the beads, as seen in the design. The fringe is done by stringing fifteen small beads, then fastening them as for a loop, fifteen more, etc., beads, ending with the jet drops. Add the reto the end of the first row. The second row is mainder of the velvet or ribbon, looping it from done in the same manner, observing to fasten side to side. Bend the comb part slightly, as the loop of beads into the eighth bead of the seen in No. 1, making the curve to suit the first loop of former row ; repeat to the end. The shape of the " chignon," and fasten with a hair pendants are composed of both sizes of the pin at the sides.

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 express a willingness or a desire to join a fraternity as it would for a young girl to propose marriage to a male friend, perhaps in these days more so. The outsider from an unknown town has too little show. I know a young fellow coming to college next fall who will be scrambled for by a half-dozen fraternities while his intimate friend who is coming with him will be scarcely likely to get a look in unless through the necessity of asking him in order to get his friend. When, as in large institutions, there are so many eligible fellows who are personally known by the members of chapters or who are introduced to them, there will always be a great many excellent boys who are overlooked because there is more good material than can be utilized.

Undoubtedly the fact that a man comes to college unknown is not the only barrier to his being asked to join a fraternity. Personal traits of character and personal appearance influence the matter materially—the latter considerably more than it should I often think. The man who talks too much or who refuses to talk at all; the fellow who has too much self-assurance or the one who has too little—all have difficulty in getting by. Crude manners and crude dress are always bars to admission. Often it is the man's fault, and at other times the fraternity is finical and critical


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 462

CROCHET INSERTION.

with a cord outside a hoop, and care must be taken to place the eyes exactly opposite each other. A little end of cane, measuring three inches in length, forms another longer eye, which is placed exactly opposite the little middle eye in the other part of the basket, and fastened to the crochet by a kind of hinge made of thread several times doubled, so that the long eye stands over the little eye, and is fastened by a little stick being pushed into the latter. The two handles are each ten inches long and made of double cane. Twist about three inches of the double cane at one end, and draw it through one of the side eyes of the basket, and bend the end back about two inches, so that it remains in the little eye. In

CROCHET

the middle of the remaining long cane part, twist, likewise, three inches for the other end of the handle ; then draw the cane through the other little end eye of the handle; draw the cane then through the second little side eye of the same half of the basket, so that the end laid back touches the ends of the first eye, consequently, the twisted part of the double cord forms the eye, and the remaining cane to be twisted in the middle lies fourfold. In conclusion, cut a strip of pasteboard an inch and a quarter broad, and long enough to form a loop. A band of pastebard one inch wide, covered with cashmere, should be placed inside the basket to keep it round.

INSERTION.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS. -Fine crochet cotton. For this insertion, begin with the long medallions in the middle, which, although worked separately, are complete in themselves, and are all joined together. Make a chain of sixteen stitches, crochet back, pass over the last five returning ; one half treble, two chain, one treble in the third following stitch. Repeat from twice. Two chain, one single in the last stitch of the first chain. This interrupted middle part must have an interrupted treble row all round with scallops. Work then in the half, formed by the first chain, alternately one half treble, one chain ; then in the other side, in the midde, six times alternately one half treble and one scallop of five chain, and one double in the first of these. When the row is finished, make up the six scallops that are wanting upon the first half of the medallion,

looping them separately by means of one single to the interrupted half treble. Then crochet the next stitch again with single as far as the middle of a narrow side of a medallion, and work from that the first chain for continuing the medallions, which by this means lie close to each other. Work four rows in each long side of the finished medallion lines as follows: 1st row: One double in one of the scallops ; six chain ; in the two first of these one treble, the last loop of which remains untouched upon the needle, as in tricot, in order that the two treble may be worked off separately, as required in tricot. The leaves thus formed must be repeated, so that two leaves hang close to each other, which are looped with one double to the next picot. From here, work again two leaves, and so on. 2nd row: One double between each two leaves

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 and hard to please. Often, too, since an election must be by unanimous vote it is the prejudice or the stubbornness of one man in the fraternity that prevents a man from being asked. It may seem to some that it is unfair for one man's vote to keep out an otherwise acceptable freshman, but that is generally the custom of the fraternity. I know men who have worked every possible device, who have pulled every available string, who have even had their relatives come to town in order that their influence might be added to that of the individual himself who wished very much to join. It has even gone so far at times as for interested outside friends to try to influence the college authorities in behalf of their friends who could not get in. The man who resorts to these devices, however, very seldom profits from them. Every year I see the disappointed faces of young fellows who have come to college with the highest hopes of making a fraternity only to find that they had built their hopes upon a wreak foundation.

Sometimes a freshman is asked by the wrong crowrd of fellows, and he has the good sense to recognize this fact and the courage to decline the invitation. Only this week a boy came to me to say that he had had an invitation to join a certain group of men and was not quite certain of their character. He asked me to tell him frankly just


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 CROCHET

CAP - BASKET.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS. -Thick, gray twine ; fine cane ; working through the whole stitch, ) increasing some colored cashmere. so much that the round is nearly flat, only Begin both halves in the middle with an open slightly arched ; then eleven rows, which form star, which, according to our model, is lined a high-standing and little widening edge, with violet cashmere. Wind the cane three which, when the half basket is completed, will times spirally in the form of a ring measuring measure about nine inches in diameter. Both one inch in diameter, and crochet this over the halves, so far completed, must now be lined very closely and firmly with double-stitch. with the colored material as far as the star Then crochet over the single cane, always reaches ; the edge of the lining must be ornaworking through the whole stitch, again one mented with a little narrow, white crochet edgrow of double-stitch, which, according to our ing. Both halves must then be joined together model, contains forty-eight stitches. In the with double-stitch, the part joined measuring following row crochet fifteen free round the two and a quarter inches in length. For each cane; bend this part into the form of a scallop, half of the basket make a hoop by winding the passing over about five stitches of the preced- cane six or eight times round, which must exing row. Repeat this scallop five times from *. { actly fit the outer edge to close properly round; From the conclusion of this row carry the cane this cotton must be very closely wound, and to the edge of the next scallop, working it over two eyes placed upon each hoop to fasten the in double-stitch; loop it on with one double ; handles ; on one hoop place a third eye to close work free over the cane eighteen double. Then the basket with. This is done by putting on a follows one double in the scallop point, and so single cane, which, in the corresponding place, on until all the scallops are joined, and the is twisted round with thread, and then bent firm part of the basket is thus commenced. outwardly to form an eye. The eye must meaNow work eighteen rows of double, (always sure four inches. The two halves are olosed VOL. LII.- 30 461

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 what they were like and what they stood for. After I had done so as fairly as I could," he said, "Thank you for telling me so straightforwardly. I don't believe from what you say that they are the sort of men that I should like to have for my intimate friends in college, and I shall decline their invitation." It took pretty staunch principles for him to reach this conclusion, for he is a boy who would very much enjoy the sort of life he would find in a good fraternity, and he knew very well what it means at the end of the freshman year to decline an invitation to join. Such instances are not at all rare of men who rather than join the wrong fraternity elect to join none at all but try to make for themselves a happy independent life.

Not infrequently the opportunity to join a fraternity comes to a man too late. He would have liked the opportunity earlier in his college course; but if it comes to him in his junior year, he often prefers to stay with the coterie of friends whom he has gathered about him than to adjust himself thus late to a new set. Only this year two juniors at the University of Illinois were invited to join two different fraternities. They were decidedly among the most influential independents in college. They were strong politically, they were respected socially, and they had a wide circle of warm friends. They did not feel that it would be quite


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 wwwwwwwwww ORNAMENTS FOR JACKETS.

460

loop with the loop of the preceding stitch upon the needle. The white stripes are in point Russe in separate stars of black wool ; the red stripes, with leaf branches ascending and de-

scending without stalk in three shades of fawncolor, the lightest shade in silk. Each leaf consists of three long stitches of one shade, and a black woolen stitch.

www ORNAMENTS

FOR

JACKETS.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER

GOOD

THE materials required for these flat, button- black beads of several sizes ; and a little strong like ornaments are merely a little square piece black silk cordon. All these must be arranged of cardboard covered with black silk ;, some according to designs.

SMOKING - CAP:

IN

COLORS.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER. In the front of the number we give, printed in colors, a design for a Smoking or LoungingCap. When a lady is desirous of making a gentleman a present of needle-work, it is always difficult to know what to give him, as there are so few things that he can make use of individually. Next to a pair of slippers, a cap is one of the most useful articles. To make the cap the following materials will be required : Seven inches of bright scarlet cloth (not too thick, ) { thirty-two inches wide ; nine velvet leaves, the same size as those shown in our illustration ; one skein of gold or maize-colored Russia braid, and one skein of fine purse-silk the same color. Keep six inches at one end of the cloth for the crown ; the remainder forms the head-piece, on which the pattern is continued, and on which eight of the leaves should be gummed or tacked, the other leaf being reserved for the center of the crown. The fibres of the leaves and the

tendrils should now be finely marked in white chalk, and the cap is ready for working. The braid must be neatly run round the leaves, and very neatly fastened on and fastened off. As this operation frequently occurs, it is particularly necessary to observe this. A sharp stiletto should be used to pierce the cloth, the braid passed through the hole, and back again in the same manner, fastening it off securely on the wrong side. The tendrils are merely sewn over rather loosely in the fine purse silk. When the work is finished, the crown should be cut round, the head-piece joined on to it, and the cap lined. The addition of a handsome tassel would also very much improve its appearance. The colors of this work may be altered in a variety of ways ; for instance, the leaves would look well in black velvet, or a black cloth cap would be pretty with bright cerise leaves, or any other gay color.

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 loyal to these friends for them to break away so late in their college life. "If I had been asked in my freshman year," one of the boys said to me, "I should no doubt have been glad to accept. I have fought my way up alone, however, and have made for myself a satisfactory position in undergraduate affairs, and I feel without conceit that I should be doing the fraternity a greater honor in joining it now than it has done me by inviting me." I felt the same way as he did about the matter, and I have frequently felt so with reference to men who have been asked to join fraternities when they had gone beyond the sophomore year. A young friend of mine a few years ago was in about the same position, he said, as Thackeray was with the taffy. When as a child he very much wanted it, he did not have the shilling that it cost; later he had the shilling but he did not care for the taffy. When this boy friend of mine entered college, he very much wanted to join a fraternity but he did not have a chance; later in his college course he had the chance, but he had formed his friends and he did not have any desire to join.

It is interesting to see what becomes of these men who do not join. Those who do not wish to do so, of course, live their own lives, form their own small circle of intimate friends and have no quarrel with any one. They get out of college


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 TRICOT

BOLSTER.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS.- Black Berlin wool, five- eighths red stripe follow again six rows of black, as at of an ounce ; dark-red, half an ounce ; green the beginning, the four last of these without or blue, three-eighths of an ounce ; white, violet, increasing. Ornament the narrow black stripe with yeland fawn-color together, a quarter of an ounce ; low cross-stitches, and the colored stripes upon two skeins of yellow filoselle, tassels, cord. Our model is worked in alternate stripes of each scalloped portion with a raised pattern. dark-red, blue, and green, ornamented with a { According to our model, those of the red stripes flower pattern separated by a narrow black have two white and three brown leaves, with stripe, ornamented with yellow; the whole is veins of brilliant wool ; those of the green worked in rows forward and backward of com- stripes, two violet and three black leaves, with mon tricot. yellow veins. Then sew the crochet part Begin at one end with a chain of fifty-four lengthwise, stitch for stitch, together, and work stitches in black wool. Continue to work with upon the seam the patterns. Cover the bolster this wool for the first row, (a line forward and with the work, joining the four black points at backward, ) in which work three stitches in each end, and the corresponding scalloped sides the fourteenth, twenty-seventh, and fortieth of the outer black row together. Put cord and stitches by taking up two stitches in them and tassels according to the design. Another very pretty design arranged in similooping round once between them ; in returnlar scallops, but worked round in cross crocheting, work off each stitch separately. 2nd to the 5th row: Increase one stitch at stitch- alternately three rows of broad white, the beginning and end of each row, continuing and six rows of broad crimson stripes, the also the previous increase, for which in the latter having a row of looped crochet-stitch middle stitch of the three in one stitch take up upon both sides. The difference between the one stitch, likewise out of the cross-lying cross crochet and the usual double- stitch is threads on both sides, so that each of these simply that it is necessary to work always four rows is incrersed eight stitches, and the through the whole stitch, and in drawing number at last amounts to ninety-two. through the first loop of a stitch the thread 6th row: Likewise with black wool, continu- must not be looped round the needle, but the ing the increase as above described ; begin also latter is laid simply with the hook upon the in this row to decrease, taking in each of the thread, and so drawn through. In working four divisions, the three middle stitches in one the stitch, it makes no difference whether it is together, consequently the number remains just drawn through in this or the usual manner. the same. Crochet all the following rows like ? For the loop, crochet- stitch, work off alterthis row. After the six black rows six red, nately one common double-stitch with one loopthen four black. Work the first and last of stitch in the following manner: these with yellow silk ; then six rows of green Work into the whole stitch, and draw a loop or blue, four rows of black like the preceding, through in the usual manner ; then crochet four six rows of red, and so on. After the fourth chain upward, and after these work the last 459

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 what they came for, and they seldom have any feeling of jealousy or envy for the man who gets something else. These men have the kindest feelings for the men in fraternities and see no reason why if these men have the time and the money and the desire for such things they should not go into them. The man who really has no interest in joining and who enjoys another sort of life is not mixed up in any fight against organizations. He likes his own life and is willing for the fraternity man to like his.

Some of the men who are disappointed in not being asked are too weak and too lacking in independence to adjust themselves to their surroundings and to form a group of friends of their own. A young boy came in to see me not long ago with some evident trouble weighing on his mind. I tried to get it out of him with little success for a time, but finally I asked, "What is worrying you, Fred?" "What I want to know," he burst out, "is how I can get a bid to join a fraternity." He was really pathetic, he would have taken anything offered him. All that he wanted was a pin. I tried to tell him frankly that his chances were not very great; he was not quite the sort of man to attract interest by fraternity men, he had no friends to push him. I tried to show him that happiness and success were very little, if at all, dependent upon his


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 WATCH - POCKET :

BEAD - WORK.

BY MRS. JANE WEAVER.

MATERIALS. -White crystal beads, round pearl beads of two sizes ; fine white flower-wire, silver-wire; a small piece of cardboard ; colored,satin or velvet ; a little wadding. Our design represents the watchpocket in a reduced size. Its greatest height is six inches, and it measures three inches at the broadest part. Cover one side-the front- of the cardboard with a little wadding, and both sides with colored silk or velvet. The bead- work is a kind of little chain-work of crystal bead rings looped together, ornamented with pearl beads, and joined together with crystal beadloops. The pocket-like part has three such lines worked with two wire ends. The undermost line requires seven rings ornamented with pearl beads, the second eleven, and the uppermost thirteen. Begin each line with eighteen crystal beads, join them in a ring so that the two wire ends run in opposite directions through two beads. For each of the following rings put on nine beads upon one of the wire ends, upon the other seven, and close in a ring as at the first. At the closing of a finished chain- line make use of one of the wire ends to put on the pearl beads, as shown in the design. The outer bead-loop, and the upper and & Continue this until there are twenty-five rings. under of the three chain lines contain eighteen The outer bead-loop requires twenty-four beads. beads. The circumference of the pocket at the Finish by joining the pocket part to the cardwidest part is four inches, the top two inches. board at a little distance from the outer edge, The outer trimming is composed of similar bead- and close to that put on the trimming as neatly rings, which, however, are larger, and orna- as possible, that the stitches may not show. The mented with larger pearl beads and larger ends of the latter meet at the upper point of the loops. The first ring requires thirty beads ; cardboard. Then make the loop with the ends and after having closed this as before, put six- of the wire according to design. For hanging teen beads on one of the wire ends, and four- up the watch, take a white hook, and ornamen teen on the other, fastening in the same manner. it with crystal beads. 458

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 joining! a fraternity—that was only an incident in his life in college which could be omitted without seriously disturbing anything; but he could not see it that way. He had come to college apparently for the sole purpose of joining a fraternity; his friends at home expected it; his happiness demanded it. If he could not attain his purpose at once he would go home, and he did. His college life was closed in a month all because he was too weak to live his own life. He was the sort of man who had too little force to help an organization had he become a member of one, and there are not a few like him.

Most of the men who do not join adjust themselves at once to the situation. They find other activities and associations which present to them opportunities for friendship and social exercise. They go into athletics, they work in the churches, they find interest in the professional societies which are established in every college. They go into dramatics and debating and military and politics and competitions of all sorts, and so get satisfaction and compensation for the life they for one reason or another have missed. It is interesting in going through the senior section of our college annual to notice how few members of the class are unattached to some organization or activity. Even this list of activities and organiza-


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 tions which every senior gives is inadequate, for it does not take into account the little house groups which are formed everywhere about the campus, and which in a large degree take the place of the real fraternity life which the Greek-letter man lives.

Most of the independent political leaders whom I now know in college are either men who have been asked to join a fraternity and chose for one reason or another not to do so, or they are men who would have liked to be asked, but for some reason missed the chance. They have had force and initiative enough to make their own plans, to gather about them their own supporters, and to conduct their own political and social campaigns. The enterprises they undertake are not nearly so easy of accomplishment as are those of the fraternity man, because the fraternity man has definite backing, a well-organized support. He is materially helped in the accomplishment of any undertaking which he begins, while the independent is not. The latter, therefore, if he wins in any undertaking must be the stronger, the more self-reliant, the shrewder of the two, and he frequently shows that he is. Two of the strongest men in the junior class at the University of Illinois this spring are independents, and I believe they are decidedly among the best men in college. They


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 have made friends everywhere; they have been leaders in whatever they have undertaken, and no man in the junior class has undertaken more. They are good illustrations of the leader in college who is left out and yet who is in no way discouraged by that fact; neither one I am sure would be willing for a minute to admit that he had been left out.

It is usually the men who are not asked to join fraternities or who are not pleased with the invitation they receive who are responsible for the organization of the local clubs or of groups of men which eventually become Greek-letter fraternities. I have known a dozen such groups of men at my own institution which were organized as church clubs, or as purely local clubs, in most cases with the averred intention and determination never to become more, and yet I have never known one which did not eventually petition a national organization for a charter. This is quite the normal procedure really, for a national organization can make a more careful selection of its men and has a stronger form of government than has a local club, and the fellows soon come to appreciate this fact.

Occasionally there is jealousy and ill feeling among those who would have liked to join and who do not have the chance. Not finding it possible


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 to get in themselves, they immediately conceive reasons why no one else should be allowed to do so. Their imaginations conjure up all sorts of evils and irregularities and undemocratic situations within the fraternity; and they are at once and for all time against the system. When I was a boy on the farm I was fortunate in owning a riding horse and saddle. The boy who lived across the road had neither, but he spent a considerable part of his time in showing up to the other boys the evils and dangers of horseback riding. His father would willingly get him a horse, he said, if he wanted one, but he did not want one; he thought it was a very bad thing and a very dangerous thing for a young boy to have a horse of his own. And so he salved his feelings and comforted himself by railing against me. He deceived no one but himself. It is somewhat the same sort of attitude that the man who does not join a fraternity occasionally takes by way of explaining why he never got in. It is a common method in society of explaining things, but it is usually an unfair and ineffective one.

If the men who are waging an active war against fraternities had usually been active members of these organizations and acquainted with the purposes and the real life of fraternity men, they could make a considerably stronger case. As it


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 is, I do not know an agitator against fraternities who has spent the four years of his undergraduate life in such an organization, and further than this, I do not know one who had a chance to do so. Most of them know little or nothing first hand. Either they or their children were disappointed in gaining admission, and for this reason they virtuously take up the fight as George Ford in my boyhood was opposed on principle to riding horses. The only trouble is that they sometimes succeed in deceiving people into believing that they are promulgating truth.

The reason that there are not more strong leaders among the independents is explained by the fact that as soon as a man begins to show qualities of leadership in the sophomore class or in the junior class, he is immediately picked up by a fraternity. The strongest independent leader in our present sophomore class is not likely long to lack opportunity to join a fraternity. A half-dozen organizations have been inquiring about him within the last month, and before college closes he will be wearing some fraternity button unless he elects to live an independent life throughout his college course.

The main difference between those who join and those who do not is a temperamental one. I have no sympathy with those who preach that it is


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 wholly a matter of money or pull. These things sometimes help, but there are in every organization with which I am familiar, men who have neither. It is largely a desire for comradeship, for association with his fellows, and adaptation to such a relationship that causes one man to join and another one to be left out. It is very often a genius for leadership; and if a man has this, if he fails with one sort of organization, he gets into another or makes one of his own.

The independent who pushes his way to the front and who attains leadership by his own efforts is more often than otherwise the strongest man in college, because he has fought and conquered against the greatest odds. There is more honor and training in winning alone but far less chance. The man who doesn't join usually does not care to do so, or is unsuited to fit into an organization life. It is the occasional exception, only, who overrides the handicap and proves himself the strongest man in college.


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 Painted L.Vogal C.by THE PICTUR BOOK E .

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One of the most difficult problems for fraternities to solve, in large institutions at least, is how best to offset or utilize, as the case may be, the influence of the numerous transfers from other chapters which make up so large a percentage of undergraduate life. Whether they are formally affiliated and become active members of the chapter or not does not solve the problem entirely, for their mere presence in the college, so far as the college public is concerned, constitutes an affiliation and makes the local chapter responsible for their conduct and for their influence. I have sat at fraternity conferences and heard uttered the commonplaces and platitudes about "once a Phi Kap always a Phi Kap," just as I have been taught since my childhood the Presbyterian doctrine of the election of the saints—once in grace, always in grace—but there is in this case as in many others a vast difference between theory and practice. The doctrine that when a man is taken into a fraternity he is entitled to its privileges wherever he goes and with whatever chapter he may come into contact, sounds all right, and is quite easily defensible until one comes up against concrete examples, and then the theory goes to pieces.


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 I have seen a chapter disrupted by transfers; I have seen its whole policy and character disorganized. I have seen it deteriorate into little more than a mere boarding house. I can at present think of but few cases in which the affiliate really proved a benefit to the chapter, got into its spirit, and became a strong unifier and leader. We have this year at the University of Illinois such an instance, but they are so rare as to attract unusual attention. This fact does not seem to me strange. The transfer, coming from a different chapter has learned its methods, its customs, its traditions, its spirit, and he can not lay these aside at once. In point of fact he seldom desires to do so; he wishes rather to transplant them into other soil. He comes from another college, also, and he finds it as difficult to relinquish its customs as he does those of his chapter.

There is a pretty general opinion prevailing among undergraduates that all the members of one fraternity, their own, perhaps, are in large degree alike—alike in ideals, in temperament, in personal appearance even. Only a few days ago I was speaking to a young sophomore in my office, and I happened in the course of the conversation to refer to his chapter. "How did you know what fraternity I belonged to?" he asked with much interest. "Oh, I usually know," I said, "I can't


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PETERSON'S MAGAZINE.

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title: Page:Peterson's Magazine 1867 b.pdf/2


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 always tell how." "Do you know," he continued, "I believe I could tell a member of my fraternity anywhere I should meet him in this country. It seems to me that we look alike, that we are differ: ent from other fraternity men." I did not think it worth while to disagree with him, but, although I think I have met as many and as great a variety of fraternity men as anyone of my age, I am sure I should not be able to tell a Deke from a Lambda Chi Alpha, and after I have been to a fraternity congress I know that there is as much difference between an Alpha Tau from Michigan and one from Georgia as there is between friends any where. It is this great variety in ideals and tastes and training that makes the problem of the transfer so difficult a one to solve satisfactorily, and the wuder the range of territory from which the transfers come, and the greater the difference in the character and traditions of the institutions concerned, the more difficult it is to harmonize and unify the fraternity interests.

The character of the men who are likely to transfer from one college to another is often not such as to cause them to be helpful additions to a chapter roll. A good many of the fraternity men who come to us from other institutions come because they have been urged to do so or invited to do so by the faculties of the institutions where


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 they have previously been registered. Their work or their conduct it is frequently thought would be improved by a change. Even when the man comes of his own desire and planning, he is not infrequently uncertain of himself, vacillating, not satisfied with his course or his surroundings, anxious to do something new or something different from what was offered in the college in which he had previously been registered. Such a malcontent is not likely to fit in harmoniously with the men of the new chapter, and not likely to be a help if he is affiliated. Of course there are men who change colleges as they change their minds, thoughtfully and carefully, because they feel that the change will help them better to accomplish the very definite purpose which they wish to accomplish. These men are likely to fit in when they come to a new chapter and likely to show interest and initiative; their number, however, is small as compared with the total number of those who transfer.

"But the whole purpose of the fraternity is changed and frustrated," a junior said to me today, "if a man loses his influence and his standing in a fraternity by going from one chapter to another. In my fraternity the doors are always open, and any brother who wishes may enter and receive a warm welcome." This doctrine is all very well both as to sound and sense, if the fraternity


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 has few chapters and if these are located in small colleges. When the family increases and expansion is the watchword, and when the chapter is located in a big university, then most organizations find themselves forced to adhere to a different doctrine. The affiliation of a man from one chapter with the fellows of another is to me a good deal like a second marriage. I have seen many successful ones, a few really happy ones, but the tender sentimental feeling of youth is usually lacking. It is too often a practical, unemotional, business arrangement. A man usually has but one real college experience. After that, no matter where he goes or how many other chapters he may have affiliation with, when he drops into reminiscence it is always, "Our chapter at Albion," or "We had a pretty good system at De Pauw." He can never forget his first love.

The fraternity with few chapters is not likely to find great difficulty with its transfers, because there are few undergraduates to transfer. The total number of active men at any one time is small, and the likelihood of any considerable number of them leaving their own chapter and going to another one is extremely slight. It is perhaps for this reason that such fraternities have in most cases adopted the practice of affiliating all brothers who come to them and do not seem to be able


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 to understand why another fraternity should do differently. I had a warm discussion only a few days ago with a man who felt that when a brother came from another chapter there was only one thing to do, and that was to rush out to meet him, fix him a place at the table, send his suitcase upstairs, and to take him in with open arms. This method is quite safe with his fraternity, for since its installation several years ago it has had but one affiliate, and though he did the chapter no good, he was not able unaided to do it much damage. He came and went without many people's guessing that he was a member.

Such a practice, however, in a large institution might wreck a fraternity like Beta Theta Pi, or Kappa Sigma, or Phi Delta Theta, each of which has a large number of chapters, and so is likely to have a good many transfers. In an institution like Cornell, or Michigan, or Illinois, there are scores of students every year transferring from the smaller colleges or even coming from the larger institutions. Many of these are fraternity men. One of our fraternities last year had thirteen transfers from nearly as many different institutions. I have heard of one fraternity in a large university which had a year or two ago twice this many. The effect of so many men coming with different ideals and experiences and different


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 THE OLD MILL.

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 methods of fraternity management is seldom a good one. Factions are created almost at once, and unity of action is next to an impossibility. It is as nearly impossible for an affiliate to refrain from telling the fellows how much better things were done in his home chapter as it is for a man who has been married twice to keep from referring to the admirable qualities of his first wife, and the effect of such reference on the harmony of the home is not particularly different in either case.

As I have seen for the past fifteen years the effect of affiliation upon our local chapters I am convinced that on the whole it is not a good thing. There are a few instances in my mind which would prove the contrary, but these are overwhelmingly in the minority. I could cite many instances where it would have been far better for the chapter if the transfer could have been kept away from the house excepting upon special occasions when he was invited. I am sure that in most cases it is far better that the transfer be not invited to eat regularly at the house, though with us it is usually easy for the fraternities to take care of all their transfers in this regard if they wish to do so. There are few places about the fraternity house where the home life is more strongly emphasized than at table during meals, and no better chance to promote harmony or introduce discord than during the half


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 hour when the men gather about the fireplace following dinner.

My objections to affiliating a transfer and thereby making him an active voting member of the chapter are that so far as his knowledge of the workings of the chapter into which he is going is concerned, he is a freshman who should do freshman duty and keep a freshman's place. This, however, is exactly what he has no intention of doing. If he comes from an eastern institution to one in the Middle West, for example, even though he may have been dismissed from college for inefficiency or irregularity, he begins at once to show how the chapter should be run, to point out how superior conditions are at Cornell or Dartmouth or Brown and to object to authority and regulation. I can not now recall one such man who was willing to be subordinate, to take dictation, or to admit that the chapter with which he had become affiliated was superior or even equal to the one which he had left. Even if he has had but one half year's experience in the chapter into which he was initiated, he usually considers that experience quite sufficient to enable him to assume direction of any new group to which he may join himself. I recall a case which occurred only a few weeks ago where a critical situation arose in one of our local chapters which concerned the pro-


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 posed dismissal of one of the active members for moral irregularities. The problem required for its solution experience, judgment, and tact; all the alumni and every active member of the chapter were concerned. The most active man in the conduct of the prosecution was an affiliate who knew little of the chapter, who had been in it only a few weeks, and who was least capable of managing a difficult situation with diplomacy. I could not make him see that the modest thing for him to do was to sit back quietly, to express his opinion when he was asked, and to vote when the time came. He was determined to drive or he would not ride in the machine at all. He was like a new professor who came to us last year from the Empire state, who desired at once to reorganize the University, who objected to all of our regulations, and who condemned everything from our marking system to our thunder storms, because they are managed differently from what is done in New York. He wanted to run things, and he wanted to do it in exactly the way it is done in the community and in the institution of which he was first a member. The affiliate too often feels the same way.

One cannot quickly transplant the customs or the traditions of one institution or organization into another, and when as is the case of chapters having a number of transfers, the attempt is being


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 CHILDREN'S FASHIONS MISSES YOUNG JULY AND FOR.

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 made at one time to bring the tradition of a half dozen different institutions into one chapter, the thing is impossible. There is nothing truer than that an undergraduate learns the customs of a college quickly and that he accepts these as the customs of all colleges. The freshman is transformed between September and the Christmas vacation; he goes home a new man—not always intellectually new, so much more the pity, but he has learned the routine of college life—its customs, its traditions, its clothes, its limitations. If at the beginning of the next semester or the next year he enters another institution, his nerves receive a shock when he realizes that the fellows in this second institution may never have suspected the things that he has been led to believe are universal college customs. He is like a man who has all his life been brought up to feed himself with a fork and who, going to another part of the world, finds that quite refined people do the same thing with their fingers or with chop sticks. We might not object to have such a man as a visitor, but we should hesitate to put him into a position of authority where he would have charge of affairs.

Sometimes the affiliate does not care to assume control, he is satisfied to sit back and criticize—to tell how things are managed in his chapter, to suggest how a real fraternity is run, to be super-


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 cilious and superior. Such a man does little harm excepting, perhaps, to become chummy with the malcontents, to help to develop factions. It is this sort that I should not have about the house excepting upon invitation, and I should make the invitations at long intervals.

The most difficult problem, with the college office at least, is with those transfers whose ideals of life are not all that they should be. Outside of the fraternity house they are bad enough, but when they become active members they are impossible. They feel less responsibility to the chapter with which they have affiliated than they did to their own, and the chapter has over them less power of control. They seem like ill-bred uncontrolled step children who do not wish to obey and who stir up the other children to all forms of disobedience and derelictions. I have never felt able to consider them as entirely divorced from the fraternity, nor yet have I felt like holding the fraternity responsible for their actions while all the time I knew that they were no help to the strong men and were a constant menace and evil influence as regards the weak ones. Whether they are affiliated or not, they visit the chapter, they become intimate with the weaker members, and they often waste a good deal of their own time


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 BRETON PALETOT FOR PROMENADE : HEAD DRESSES.

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 and the time of anyone who will consort with them.

As I said at the outset, the problem of the transfer is not solved even if the man is not affiliated. If he is a good man, the chapter gets the benefit even if he has not been taken in; if he is a bad one, the fraternity must bear the disgrace without being in more than an advisory position with reference to his conduct. I have in mind now one of our fraternities whose transfers, even though they have not been affiliated, have been of service to the chapter both for the advice and help they have given regarding the conduct of affairs at the house, as well as in themselves raising the scholastic average; I recall an instance in another chapter where the transfer damaged the chapter irreparably by his bad conduct, and even after he was dismissed from college came back at intervals to commit improprieties which reflected immeasurably upon the good name of the chapter. The active men held, of course, that he had not been affiliated, that they were not responsible for his actions, and that they had no control of his habits; but these statements did not get them anywhere. The general public knew that he was a fraternity man, and the local chapter received the credit for whatever he did.

In view of all these facts I believe that it


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 is ordinarily unwise for a fraternity to have a general regulation requiring a chapter to affiliate a transfer from another institution. I believe that the action taken should be determined by each chapter for itself. It is desirable that every chapter should have knowledge of the men who transfer from other institutions, and that they should be shown some courtesy and some attention. Whether they should be taken into the chapter, whether they should even eat at the chapter house table or visit the house often, should depend entirely upon the character of the men and the desire of the chapter. Usually I have found that the chapter has acted wisest that did not affiliate the men, and that had as little official connection with them as possible. When a chapter finds one man that will help and be of real service it will find a half dozen that will prove worthless or a real incubus. While I have been writing these paragraphs I have had a talk with a man whose fraternity requires that all transfers be affiliated, and I asked him to tell me frankly what the result in his fraternity had been.

"On the whole we have lost more by it than we have gained," was his reply, and that is the way I have come to feel about it. If a chapter establishes a custom of taking its transfers in, it will be impossible not to do so even when it is


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 D

BRETON PALETOT FOR HOUSE : LOW-NECKED BODICES.

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 quite apparent that such an action will not be for the best; if it decides each case upon its own merits, and takes few or none, it will be in a much safer position. The fraternity which does not affiliate any of its transfers will be most likely to get on agreeably. It will avoid internal dissensions and factions, it will be more easily able to carry out a uniform policy of chapter management, it will miss the help of an occasional good man, but it will save itself from the annoyance of many a poor one.

If someone suggests that this method is not quite fair to the transfer, I will say in reply that the transfer has little ground for complaint. He has had his day; he chose his college and his college home, and if circumstances make it inadvisable or impossible for him to continue where he began, well, he simply is paying the penalty as we all must do in every walk or department of life for the errors we make or the misfortunes we encounter.


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Every year at the opening of college the papers are full of the accounts of the large number of freshmen who are flocking to the various colleges and universities. I do not know what percentage of these entrants persists through the four years of their undergraduate course and come up for their degrees, but I suppose that it varies in different parts of the country and in different types of institutions. An investigation made recently by the assistant dean of the College of Engineering at the University of Illinois showed that at this institution approximately forty per cent of those entering the freshman class of that college continued through the course and received their degree at the end of the four years. A few, perhaps, returned later to finish their work or occupied five years in the completion of their courses, but even counting these in, the percentage of matriculants who ultimately graduate would not exceed forty-five per cent. I presume that if statistics were compiled in the other colleges of the University, the result would not be particularly different from that which was shown in the College of Engineering. A good many reasons might be alleged for this large percentage of mortality,


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 EVENING DRESS: COLLAR AND CUFF.

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 but very likely one of the strongest is that going to college was never so universally popular as it now is, and a large number of young people, therefore, enter college in the fall who find out before spring that they are not particularly fitted for the work or interested in it. These often do not return.

One of the most serious problems the fraternity has to solve is concerned with the men who do not graduate. There is a very large class of fellows who enter college, join a fraternity, and then at the end of the first semester, or the first year, or the first two years, give up their college work and go at something else. This class of men causes the fraternity a considerable amount of trouble from the fact that while they are in college they are often unstable, dissatisfied, and irresponsible, and after they leave college they are unlikely to meet their obligations to the fraternity or to show much interest in it. Fraternities are coming to see that when they are rushing men one of the first things to discover about them is whether or not they have serious intentions of remaining in college for the entire course. The student who does not, is more likely than not to be a poor asset for the organization.

A fraternity is strong or weak under the present system in accordance with which fraternities are


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 WALKING DRESS: COLLAR AND CUFF.

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 managed, as its senior class is strong or weak. I have in mind a number of instances of fraternities at the University which have started in with what was thought to be an excellent freshman class, and have come to the end of the four years with one or two or occasionally with not a single one of the men who were originally pledged. Such a fraternity is unquestionably weak. With no seniors it has little organization, and it reveals the fact that for some time it has had little, or there would have been someone to save a few of the upperclassmen from the wreck. The organization which by one means or another can carry a large percentage of the men through to the senior year and graduate them, has a strength that is worth much to the organization and to the institution of which it is a part.

It has been a matter of interest to me to make some investigations at the University of Illinois relative to these men who join fraternities and who do not finish their college course. Recently I sent to the local secretary of each of twenty-three national fraternities a questionnaire asking the number of initiates over a period of four years in each fraternity, and also the number of these initiates who finally graduated. Through our class annuals and the registrar's office I was able to check results which came in reply to these inquiries,