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71 WADY KHASHMEH. WADY EL MALEII. 71

The Khashmeh barely touches the Mediterranean water- parting at Eas Ibsik, being almost wholly intercepted by Wady Shubash on the north, and by the heads of Wady Mukhnawy on the south. The watercourse seems to come to an end in the Ghor, without reaching a collection of five fountains, amidst the ruins named el Fatur, ed Deir 3 and Umm el Amdan, which unite in a single channel passing direct to the Jordan. There are wadys on either side of Khashmeh, but these only rise on the hillside skirting the Ghor.

THE BASIN OF WADY EL MALEH.

Between Eas Ibsik (alt. 2,404 feet) and Eas el Akra (alt, 2,230 feet), this basin is in contact with the northern arm of the Mefjir Basin. On the south of Mount Akra, it is divided from the tributaries of the Merj el Ghuruk, which has no outfall to the sea.

The northern boundary or waterparting extends from the confluence with the Jordan westward to the southern flanks of Eas Ibsik where it turns to the south-west, over Eas el Akra to a point east of Judeideh.

The southern boundary of the basin starts from its contact with Merj el Ghuruk, between Judeideh and Tubas> reaches Tubas (alt. 1,227 feet), runs south to ed Deir, then east to Eas Jadir (alt. 2,326 feet), and pursues the summit of this range to Kh. Umm el Kotn (alt; 342 feet) ; thence it passes eastward to Kh. Mofia (alt. 590 feet).

At Kh. Mofia, the eastern boundary commences, and runs north to Eas Umm Zokah (alt. 840 feet) continuing in the same direction to Tell Fass el Jemel, and onward until the range of hills bends round to the east, following the course of the Wady el Maleh up to the Jordan* Thus the basin forms an irregular triangle, with its faces towards the north, south- west and east, and its outfall at the north-east angle.

This basin is drained by three main branches, viz. (1) the Wady el Maleh, (2) the Wady Helweh, and (3) the Wady ed Duba.

The Wady el Maleh has its sources at the western extremity

F 2


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72 72 THE JORDAN WATERSHED.

of the basin. Two wadys extending in the same line, descend from Eas Akra and Eas Jadir in opposite directions, and meet in a fine elevated plain on the north-west of Tubas (alt. 1,227 feet). Eunningon northward, this wadyis met by another coming towards it from Eas Ibsik (alt. 2,404 feet), and both turn eastward and descend through a gap in the hills to meet at Teiasir (alt. 995 feet) which overlooks another fine plain stretching out eastward. The wady advances round this plain by the north-west and then by the south-east, taking the names of Wady Mukhnawy and Wady el Hirreh, and receiving a tributary from the south side of the plain at a point between Kh. el Akabeh (alt. 732 feet) and Burj el Maleh (alt. 718 feet). From this confluence the wady takes the name of Wady el Maleh, and advances east- ward to the end of the range of Eas er Eaby on which stands the Burj or ruined castle of Maleh. It receives on its way affluents from Eas er Eaby on the north, and Eas J adir (alt. 2,326 feet) on the south, the former washing the south- western face of the castle hill, and the latter passing the village of Kh. Yerzeh (alt. 950 feet). On the south-east of Maleh Castle, the wady receives another tributary from the range of Eas Jadir, the southern margin of the basin ; and bends round to the north-east. At the eastern foot of the castle range, it receives a tributary which washes the north- eastern face of the castle hill, and thence it proceeds eastward to 'Ain Maleh and 'Ayun el Asawir, where it receives the Wady Helweh from the south.

The Wady Helweh rises along the south-western edge of the basin from Kh. Mofia (alt. 590 feet) to a point on the north of Kh. Umm esh Sheibik. These wadys meet at the toot of Kh. Umm el Hosr and run on northward to the confluence with Wady Kau Abu Deiyeh from the eastern margin, at the foot of Kh. Umm el Ikba (alt. 276 feet), where two tributaries from the west also fall in. The Wady Helweh continues northward to 'Ain Helweh and to the confluence with the Wady el Maleh.

The main stream or Wady el Maleh continues for a very

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73 WADY EL MALEH. MINOR BASINS. 73

short distance eastward to receive the Wady el Tubkah which skirts the eastern border. Then it runs northward to the confluence with the Wady ed Duba or esh Shukh (alt. 723 feet below the sea).

The Wady ed Duba skirts the eastern moiety of the northern edge of the basin, and drains the area between it and the range of Eas er Eaby, which is prolonged by a spur extending eastward between the affluents of ed Duba and the Wady el Maleh.

Below the confluence of the Duba, the Wady el Maleh receives small affluents from the north-eastern part of the basin, near 'Ain el Helweh ; and then runs on eastward to the Jordan ; which it enters where the plains on the south of Beisan, are terminated by the mountains closing in upon the river.

MINOR BASINS BETWEEN WADY EL MALEH, THE JORDAN, AND WADY FAR' AH.

The eastern edge of the Maleh basin is only from two to three miles distant from the Jordan. The steepness of the slope towards the valley is best expressed by the actual observations. The river is 1,080 feet below the level of the Mediterranean, at the Makhadet (ford) es S'aidiyeh, and 1,120 feet at Makt. Umm Sidreh. The summits on the eastern edge of the Maleh basin, and on its continuation along the basin of Wady el Bukei'a are as follows : Eas Nukb el Bakr (alt. 95 feet), Dhahret el Meidan (alt. 653 feet), Kh. Mofia (alt. 590 feet), Eas Umm Zokah (alt. 840 feet), Eas el Jibsin (alt. 110 feet). These elevations above the sea, added to the figures representing the depression of the river below the sea, are equivalent to heights of 1,100 to 2,000 feet above the stream, and they frequently terminate in rocky,, precipices.

This bold and abrupt slope is broken up by numerous ravines and wadys, rising near the summit, and exhibiting much variety in their descent. The Wady Umm el Khar-


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74 74 THE JORDAN WATERSHED.

rubeh runs for three miles parallel and near to the summit before zigzaging downwards to the Jordan. The Wady Shaib has a very oblique course, and it is followed by an ancient road which crosses between the Wady Far'ah and the Jordan, at Makt. ez Zakkumeh. On the east of the ford, in a prominent situation, rises the Saracenic castle of Eubud. About a mile from the river the road to Wady Far'ah is crossed by another road which traverses the valley of the Jordan, between Beisan and er Eiha, the site of Jericho. South of the Far'ah Eoad, ten other distinct wadys occur along the Maleh slope,

The south-western slope beyond the Maleh basin around the south of Tubas, is drained by the Wady er Eesif, an affluent of Wady Far'ah. Two roads from Nablus run ij the same direction, side by side along the ridge and furrow of the Eesif wady. On a spur from Eas Jadir, descendipg between two southern branches of Wady er Eesif, is Ajnftn, which Lieut. Conder considers to represent the ^Enon of Scripture (John iii, 23); but although he claims Dr. Eobinson's support, the site is rejected by Dr. Eobinson, on account of its deficiency of water,* There is a still graver objection to this identi- fication, which will be considered in another work.

Further south, and still at the foot of Eas Jadir, the basin of Wady el Maleh is succeeded by Wady el Bukei'a. Although this wady is of considerably greater extent than the wadys which descend to tjie Jordan from the eastern edge of Wady el Maleh, it is still only a secondary valley, being cut off by the head of Wady Fa'rah from the Mediterranean waterparting. Its lower extremity is remarkable, for in approaching the valley of tke Jordan, the wady enters a rocky chasm, through which it proceeds southward for more than half a mi}e, when it doubles back on a serpentine course northward, then north-east and east, through Wady Abu Sidreh, to an offset of the Jordan, at Tell Abu Sidreh.

320. Smith's " Bib. Diet.," art. Salem.
 * Kob., &, 305, 333. Conder, "Tent Work," ii, 57: "Handbook,"


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75 MINOK BASINS. 75

The Ghor or upper ground at the foot of the hills, must be distinguished from the Zor or bottom of the valley, about 150 feet lower, in which the channel of the river, cut still deeper, meanders. On the north of Wady el Maleh the Ghor is widened out to the foot of the terrace of Beisan which is about 400 feet higher, and the hills, at first only set back from the edge of the terrace, gradually recede further and further westward, up the yalley of Jezreel, and along the Plain of Esdraelon, to Mount Carmel and the Sea.

South of the Wady el Maleh, the hills encroach upon the Ghor, and reduce it to a narrow terrace, which comes to a minimum on the east of Eas Umm okah (alt, 840 feet). The Zor also frequently cuts gaps in the Ghor, where the wadys descent} into it. This narrowed part of the Jordan Valley extends southward to the Wady Abu Sidreh, when the hills "begin to recede westward, and the Gfyor again expands, widening gradually (except where the Wady Far'ah opens into it), till it acquires its fullest breadth in the plains of'Jericho, on the south of !urn Surtubeh.

Southward between the Wady 'Abu Sidreh and the great Wady Far'ah, only one secondary wady can be singled out for notice. It comes from the hills between the Bukei'a and the Far'ah, and rises in Eas IJmin el Kharrubeh (alt. 690 feet), entering the Jordan about three miles below Tell es Sidreh, with the name of Sh'ab el Ghoraniyel}. About two miles and a half on the south-west of this confluence, the hills on the left bank of Wady Far'ah terminate in el Makhruk. The Wady Far'ah which has entered the Ghor from the north-west, now takes the name of Wady el Jozelelj, and bends round to the south, meandering in that Direction for six miles through the Ghor, to its junction with the Jordan ; its distance from the Jordan being only about three-quarters of a mile, nearly all the way. The watersheds here between the Far'ah and the Jordan, being thus contracted, leave no room for any other secondary features than mere corrosions in the face of the descent from the Ghor to the Zor. The latter is here remarkable for the remains of the Jisr (Bridge) ed Damieh,


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 with other ruins of the same name, and also for the junction of the Wady Zerka from the east, which is identified with the River Jabbok of the Bible.

The western edge of the basin has its northern extremity at a point midway between Tubâs and el Judeideh, the latter being in the inland basin of Merj el Ghuruk, which runs with the Fâr'ah for about three miles. For about a mile and a-half north east of Yasid (alt. 2,240 feet) the Fâr'ah basin runs with that of Nahr el Mefjir, which has a source of its southern branch near Yasid. From Yasid to the south of Mount Gerizim or Jebel et Tor, the western edge of the Far'ah runs with the basin of Nahr Iskanderuneh, and passes over Mount Ebal or Jebel Eslamiyeh, and on the east of the town of Nablûs. From Mount Gerizim, the edge of the Fâr'ah basin takes a south-easterly course across the plains, between the plains of Sahel Mukhnah and Sahel Rujib, and reaches the ridge of el Jeddua. Along this part the Far'ah basin runs with the Kanah section of the el 'Auja basin. From el Jeddua it makes a bend to the north-east, over et Tuwanik (alt. 2,847 feet) to Sheikh Kamil (alt. 1,920 feet), here the south-easterly course of the edge of the basin is resumed; and continues through Daluk, Umm Halal (alt. 1,360 feet), Ras Kaneiterah, and the noted Kurn Surtubeh (alt. 1,244 feet) to el Mermaleh in the plain which is here depressed 889 feet below the sea, and about three miles south-eastward it reaches the Jordan. From el Jeddua to the Jordan, the Fâr'ah is coterminous with Wady el Humr, which succeeds it on the south. The length of the basin is about thirty miles from north-west to south-east; and its greatest breadth is about twelve miles in its upper part, and about six miles lower down.

The western extremity or head of the Farah Basin is divided into two distinct parts, northern and southern; the


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77 WADY FAR' AH. 77

latter being a thousand feet higher than the former, in the lowest grounds.

(1.) The southern or more elevated part, includes the con- tinuous Sahels or Plains of Rujib, Askar, and Salim.

The plain of Rujib is a continuation northward of the noted plain of Mukhnah, and it is commonly considered to be a part of the latter. Both are traversed by the high-road between Nablus and Jerusalem. The only separation between them is the waterparting of the basins of Wady Far'ah and Wady el 'Auja, on the south-west of the village of Rujib. It is indicated by the commencement of a more rapid descent on the side of Rujib.

On the north, the Plain of Rujib is succeeded by the Plain of Askar, the biblical Sychar, John iv, 5. The division takes place where the hills recede westwards towards Nablus, and eastward towards Salim, the Shalem of Jacob, Genesis xxxiii, 18 ; but not the Salim of St. John's Gospel, ch. iii, ver. 23. " Now Jacob's well was there " (St. John iv, 6), and is still, on the southern edge of the plain, just half a mile south of Askar. The plain of Askar is bounded on the north by a range of mountains, an extension eastwards from Mount Ebal, dividing the southern part of the Far'ah basin from the northern part, and culminating in Jebel el Kebir (alt. 2,610 feet). The connection of the watercourses on either side of the range, is effected through its intersection by a deep and narrow gorge or chasm named Wady Beidan. The chasm at the entrance from the Plain of Askar, is about 1,500 feet above the sea ; but it is only about 600 feet at its exit on the north side of the range, at the foot of Neby Belan (alt. 2,500 feet). The altitude of Wady Beidan is considerably lower, at a distance of a mile and half to the east, where the stream from the mouth of the chasm, joins the waters of Wady Far'ah.

Towards the east, the Plain of Askar is followed con- tinuously by the Plain of Salim ; the division between them being defined by the Wady esh Shejar. The eastern extremity of the Plain of Salim is the waterparting between this por-


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78 78 THE JORDAN WATERSHED.

tion of the basin of Wady Far'ah and the basin of Wady Humr, which is the next tributary to the Jordan on the south, and the recipient of the better known Wady Fusail. The altitude of the Plain of Salim is 1,500 feet at its western end, and only 1,800 feet at the edge of the descent into Wady Kerad, which is one of the heads of Wady el Humr. But the mountains on the north and south of this end of the plain, rise to 2,510 feet and 2,547 feet respectively. The plain of Askar thus forms the junction of two broad valleys or plains at right angles to each other, and of an equal length of six miles, with an average breadth throughout that seldom exceeds a mile except at the southern and eastern extremities. The Askar plain is the collecting ground of the drainage of this part of the basin before it is carried into the chasm of Wady Beidan to join the lower region in the main valley on the north.

(2.) The northern part of the head of the Far'ah Basin is surrounded by a semicircle of hills with a oUameter of seven or eight miles. The villages of Asiret el Hatab, Yasid, Tubas, and Tammun, indicate the course of the circular margin, from which the wadys converge towards two centres. One of them, taking four-fifths of this track, is about half a mile below 'Ain and Tell el Far'aji ; and the other is at the lower end of Wady Beidan. The inequality of these areas is com- pensated by the junction with the smaller centre of the out- fall of the southern division.

From these central junctions, two streams run, one south- ward, and the other eastward ; and they meet after a course of a mile and a half each. Here the Wady Far'ah begins its south-eastern course to the Ghor, with the summits on each side about four or five miles apart. After a descent of three miles and a half, the valley is found by the observations 'of the survey to be on a level with the sea. At Yasid on the western edge of the basin, and eight miles and a half distant, the altitude is 2,240 feet. At the junction of Wady Far'ah with the Jordan, the depth is 1,160 feet below the sea level, the direct distance from the sea level point being about


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79 WADY FAR' AH. 70

fifteen miles, which by the winding of the river is increased to not less than eighteen miles. The fall from Yasid to the sea-level-point in Wady Far'ah, is therefore about 264 feet per mile, or exactly one in twenty ; while the fall from the same point to the Jordan is only about 77 feet per mile or about one in sixty-eight.

The Wady Far'ah below the junction of its head waters, presents three natural divisions of about equal length, accord- ing to the variation of its landscape. In the uppermost part, the river flows through a beautiful basin of meadow land with the stream flowing in the midst bordered by oleanders.

In the central part the river descends chiefly amidst precipitous rocks, which here separate its bed from the fertile slopes above. Towards the lower end of this part, on the right bank, occurs a beautiful tract which descends to the river bank, where it is covered with oleanders. It is called el Fersh, and by Dr. Eobinson " Fersh el Musa/' " Bib. Res." iii, 304. On the left bank are the ruins of an ancient town now named Buseiliyeh, visited by Van de Velde, Guerin, and the Surveyors of the Palestine Exploration Fund. The central part is terminated by the projection of a spur of the hills on the north, met by precipitous rocks on the south, which close in upon the river, and reduce its passageway to a narrow gorge, which is remarkable for its caverns and the colour of its rocks.

The lowest part begins below the gorge, and spreading out over the marshes of the Kurawa, extends to the Ghor. Van de Velde describes the Kurawa as a " well watered and richly wooded oasis, with luxuriant fields and gardens, and oleander-bordered brooks." It is the principal encampment of the Mas 'udy Arabs. Euins only now remain of mills and houses, where once stood the city of Archelaus.

But few affluents from either side occur in the upper and central parts of the valley, of sufficient importance to call for special notice. At the higher end of the upper part, and on the left bank, the Shab esh Shinar descends very obliquely from the northern slope of Jebel Tammun and the village of


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80 80 THE JOKDAN WATEESHED.

the same name. At the lower end of the same part, a wady descends from a pass (Nukb el Arais) which facilitates com- munication with Wady el Bukeia, and divides Jebel Tammun. from the heights of Jurein, Homsah, and Kharrubeh. These heights are broken and precipitous, more so than those on the opposite bank, which although terminating in cliffs along the course of the river, descend to them by broader slopes. The cliffs on both sides of the stream distinguish the central part. The Kurawa receives all its notable affluents from the right bank, including Wady ez Zeit, Wady Jabr, Wady el Khur- zeleiyeh, and the Talat el Kurein from Kurn Surtubeh. Below the Kurawa, the Wady Far'ah takes the name of Wady el Jozeleh, which has been already noticed.

Dr. Kobinson remarks that the Wady Far 'ah (Fari'a) is "justly regarded as one of the most fertile and valuable regions of Palestine," "Bib. Kes." iii, 304 Being subject to the nomadic Mas'udy Arabs, it is without villages, except on the western margin of the basin. But it abounds with pastures and cornfields, and supports large herds of cattle and quan- tities of goats. "Nowhere in Palestine had I seen such noble brooks of water," exclaims Dr. Eobinson ; and Mons. Guerin expatiates on the delicious shade of gigantic fig trees, the magnificent shrubs and beauteous oleanders, which line the banks of the streams, Guerin, " Samarie " i, 258. "A most delightful place," "knee-deep in beautiful flowers," "this charming valley," are among the praises heaped upon Wady Far'ah by Lieutenant Conder, " Tent Work " ii, 57.

Important roads intersect Wady Far'ah in various direc- tions. The great north road from Jerusalem to Nazareth, Beisan, the Sea of Galilee, and the regions beyond, cross the western head of the basin in it^ widest part. Several main highways to Gilead and the east of the Jordan coming from Tubas, Sannur, Yasid, Tulluza, and Nablus, meet in the Wady Far'ah, and then pursue a common route to the Jordan at the ford of Damieh ; various cross tracts will also be found on the map.

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 Sichem," Gen. xii, 6, he probably followed the road across the head of the Farah Basin. Jacob returning from Laban by way of Mount Gilead with his wives, children, and servants, his herds of cattle, flocks of sheep and goats, camels, and asses, ascended the Fâr'ah from the Jordan, and "came to Shalem, a city of Shechem," Gen. xxxiii, 18. Benhadad the Syrian, fleeing from his siege of Samaria, panic-stricken by the Almighty, hurried down the Fâr'ah Valley, "and lo! all the way was full of garments and vessels which the Syrians cast away in their haste," 2 Kings vii.

This is the Wady el Ahmar of Van de Velde, "Sinai and Palestine," ii, 315; "Memoirs," 123. Robinson calls it Wady Ahmar, "Bib. Res." iii, 294. It is better known in connection with Wady Fusail, a minor branch of the basin, containing the site of Phasaëlis. Its general outline may be compared to a right angled triangle, with-the southern boundary for its base, dividing it from the basin of Wady el Ajah which falls into the Jordan next to this on the south. The southern boundary passes from the Jordan through el Arâka, Kh. Jibeit (alt. 2,146 feet), and el Mugheir (alt. 2,246 feet), to the eastern edge of Merj Sia, a small natural basin with no outlet. The length is about eleven miles.

The perpendicular of the triangle forms the western boundary, running north and south with some small sinuosities; on this side also the basin is coterminous with the 'Auja basin, but here it is quite another 'Auja from the 'Aujah on the south, and is indeed the great basin of Nahr el 'Auja, which falls into the Mediterranean Sea on the north of Jaffa. The slight difference in spelling may be unintentional. The western boundary is traced from Merj Sia, along a ridge between Istuna and Kulason, and east of the sources of Wady Seilun, then to about midway between Jalûd and Domeh, and onwards to a point nearer to Kusrah than to Mejdel Beni Fâdl; further north it crosses Akrabeh, and passes north-west of Yanun, to the mountain of el Jeddua


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82 THE JORDAN WATERSHED.

and et Tuwanik (alt. 2,847 feet), then near Tana to the northern extremity of the basin near Sheikh Kamil (alt. 1,923 feet). The length is about twelve miles.

The hypotenuse of this triangular basin faces the north- east and is coterminous with the Wady Far'ah, in connection with which it has been already traced. Its length is about thirteen miles.

The Watercourses of Wady el Humr Basin.

Two main streams receive the channels of this basin, and unite about a mile from the Jordan. These are the Wady el Humr which drains the northern part of the basin, and the Wady Fusail which is the outfall of the southern part. There is an intermediate channel which rises about two miles from the edge of the plain, and passes straight across it to the con- fluence, a further distance of five miles.

The sources of Wady el Humr extend along the western waterparting for about eight miles, between Sheikh Kamil and Mejdel Beni Fadl, and they form two divisions. The first rises at Tana and runs with the Koman road as Wady el Kerad into the Sahel or Plain of Ifjim. It receives a branch from Sheikh Kamil at a point midway between Tana and the plain ; and another branch comes from the same range of hills through Lahf Salim, and joins the Kerad at the upper end of the plain of Ifjim. At the lower end of the plain the Wady Zaniur joins the Kerad. The Zamur has the name of Wady ed Dowa above its entrance into the plain, and is the recipient of a series of tributaries which severally rise at Kh. Yanun, el Jeddua, Yanun, Akrabeh, and north of Mejdel Beni Fadl. These drain an upland tract, enclosed between the western waterparting and spurs which proceed from it and are drawn together at the gorge of Wady ed Dowa, the streams having united at the entrance of the gorge. After the junction of the Zamur the wady takes the name of Wady el Ifjim and receives short branches from the north-east parting at Bir Abu Deraj, Umm Hallal (alt. 1,360 feet), Ras el Hufireh, and


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83 WADY EL HUMH. 83

Eas Kuneiterah. It receives longer branches on the opposite or right bank, descending from the eastern face of the spur already mentioned, which extends from the western parting at Mejdel Beni Fadl northwards to Wady ed Dowa. These are named Khallet 'Aseirn, W. el Menakhir, called also es Subhah, Wady Abu Hummam, and Wady Saddeh. .

The Wady Ifjim proceeds towards the Ghor from the north ; but before reaching it, a deflection takes place which causes the wady to pass into the plain through a precipitous chasm from the west, which meets at its entrance from the plain, a similar chasm coming from the north, as if it had been the passage of the Ifjim before some convulsion diverted the stream to the western chasm.

At its entrance into the Ghor the wady is called Zakaska, and runs at the foot of lofty rocks on its right bank, while the slopes of Kurn Surtubeh have their base about a mile off on the left, and finally reach their southern extremity where the wady proceeds westward across the Ghor, as Wady el Hurnr. Its junction with Wady Fusail takes place in the low ground of the Zor, the descent to which is here less abrupt than usual, owing to the channels having worn down the surface of the Ghor, giving it a rough and broken aspect, for a considerable distance from the river.

The *Wady Fusail has its sources on the western water- parting between Mejdel Beni Fadl and Merj Sia. The Wady Bursheh running eastward on the south of Mejdel Beni Fadl, receives two small feeders from the west, and two from the east of that village, and then goes to the south-east, receiving the Wady Arak esh Shaheba from the village of Domeh (alt. 2,006 feet), and continuing in the same direction for three- quarters of a-mile, lower down, as the Wady Arak Hajaj. Here it receives the Wady er Eishash from the south-west, the numerous sources of this branch being spread out along the south-western margin of the basin, between Domeh and el Mugheir (alt. 2,245 feet).

After the junction of the Eishash, the Arak Hajaj pro- ceeds eastwards for a mile and a-half. Then entering the


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84 84 THE JOEDAN WATERSHED.

Ghor it takes a south-easterly course across the plain of Wady Fusail, and reaches the confluence with Wady el Humr, through Melahet Urnm 'Asein. As the Fusail deflects from the foot of the hills, it receives from them Wady el Makthayeh, Wady Abu Zerka, and Wady el War, also Birket Fusail and another fountain in the plain, amid aqueducts and ruins that denote the site of the ancient Herodian city of Phasaelis.

THE BASIN OF WADY EL 'AftjAH.

The shape of the margin of this basin may be compared almost to an ellipse or to a rhomboid, with the four sides bulging outwards, the two longer being on the north and south. The parallel inclination of the shorter sides in passing from the northern border southward, is slightly to the east. The eastern waterparting follows the course of the Jordan at a distance from the river of about one mile and a-quarter at the northern end, tapering to half-a-rnile at the southern end, where the basin has its outlet into the Jordan. This narrow ridge is about seven miles in length, and its summit being on a level with the Ghor, denotes its identity with that feature, from which it is only separated by the gradually declining course of the Wady el Mellahah, to join the 'Aujah, near the outlet of the basin into the Jordan, where the depression below the sea is 1,200 feet. The Ghor seems to be here about 400 feet higher.

The northern waterparting concurs with that of Wady el Humr as far as Merj Sia, and this part is described in the account of that basin. But it is prolonged further westward for about three miles so as to include Kh. Abu Felah. Here the western boundary begins, running south to Tell Asur (alt. 3,318 feet). From Merj Sia to Tell Asur, this basin impinges on the Mediterranean waterparting of Nahr el 'Auja. Southward of Tell Asur, the Mediterranean system trends south-west, and the boundary of this basin trends south-east, following the Koman road as far as Kubbet Kummamaneh


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85 WADY EL 'AtJJAH. 85

(alt. 2,024 feet), allowing the head of the Nuei'ameh, the next Jordan basin, to intervene. From Kubbet Kummamaneh it runs eastward to Umm Sirah, where it passes to the south- east to make a precipitous descent into the Ghor, on the north of 'Ain ed Duk and 'Ain en Nuei'ameh, from whence it bends round to the north-east by 'Osh el Ghurab, Maidan el Abd, Khurbet es Sumrah, and the Jordan on the south of the outfall at el 'Aujah.

The Watercourses of el 'Adjah Basin.

Three divisions of this basin may be distinguished, namely, Wady el Mellahah in the northern part ; Wady el 'Aujah in the centre ; and Wady Abu Obeideh in the south ; with their respective affluents.

Wady el Mellahah originates in a long swamp at the north- eastern extremity of the basin, and running along the eastern margin, joins el 'Aujah near the outfall. At the upper end of the swamp, it receives Wady Unkur edh Dhib, which rises on the south of Kh. Jibeit (alt. 2,146 feet), and skirts the northern margin of the basin. Two wadys with parallel courses to edh Dhib enter the swamp lower down ; and two more, in- cluding Wady Bakr, flowing in a similar direction, enter Wady Mellahah after it leaves the swamp. The Wady Mekur edh Dhib, on the south of Wady Bakr, is dispersed by irrigation channels in the Ghor, otherwise it would contribute to Mellahah.

From Wady Zakaska, where the Wady el Humr enters the Ghor, to Wady Bakr, the descent of the mountain side, at first precipitous, continues steep, and in the same line north and south. But on the right or south bank of Wady Bakr, the base of the mountains begins to be extended in the form of low hills for a mile and a-half eastward, and continues so southward to the Wady el 'Aujah.

South of Wady el 'Aujah, these hills are separated from the mountains by a plain (the Emek or Plain of Keziz Joshua xviii, 21), until they reach their southern limit, and

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86 86 THE JORDAN WATERSHED. x

approach the rocky cliffs and precipices of the mountain base about Jebel Kuruntul, where the Wady Nuei'ameh intervenes.

They are intersected by the Wady el 'Aujah, and also by the Wady Abu Obeideh, called also Abideh, probably by an oversight. Between the Wadys el 'Aujah and Obeideh, the hills throw out a long, low, and narrow tongue across the Ghor. At el M'adhbeh, they attain to an altitude of 283 feet above the sea, the mountain of en Nejmeh on the west having the alt. of 2,391 feet. The Ghor at Kh. es Sumrah, at the eastern foot of el M'adhbeh, is 840 feet below the sea, while the enclosed " Plain of Keziz " between the mountains and the hills, is about 200 feet below the sea.

The Wady el 'Aujah has its principal sources in the north-western extremity of the basin, and receives several tributaries from its margin between el Mugheir and Tell Asur. At 'Ain Samieh it acquires the name of that source, and enters the rocky defile by which it proceeds to the en- closed plain, that it has been proposed to identify with the Benjamite settlement of Emek Keziz. About a mile and a quarter before leaving the mountains, it takes the waters of 'Ain el 'Aujah, and becomes a permanent stream with that name. After 'crossing the enclosed plain, it enters the hills at the northern foot of el M'adhbeh, and receives in the gorge, the Wady Abu el Haiyat on the left bank, and the Wadys Sebata and el Abeid on the right bank. The two Wadys el Haiyat and Sebata only rise on the outer slope of the mountains ; but the Wady el Abeid takes the waters of Wady en Nejmeh, which descends from Mount en Nejmeh (alt. 2,391 feet) ; also those from the deep and rocky chasms of Wady Dar el Jerir and Wady Lueit.

The Wady Dar el Jerir comes from the highland villages of Kefr Malik and Dar Jerir, on the eastern slopes of Tell Asur (alt. 3,318 feet). It is the Wady Habis and Wady 'el Musireh of former maps. The Wady Lueit in its upper course is called Wady et Taiyibeh, and descending from near the village of that name, the Ophrah of Scripture (alt. 2,850 feet), skirts the southern margin of the basin until it


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87 WADY EL 'AftjAH. MINOR BASIN. 87

approaches the opening of its chasm into the plain. It was confused formerly with Wady Habis and Wady el Musireh. The Wady Abu Obeideh has its source on the west of Umm Sirah, and takes the rest of the drainage of the southern border of the basin. In crossing the enclosed plain, here called Salet el Meidan, the Wady Abu Obeideh receives the Wady Umm Sirah, which rises among the rocks at the foot of the mountains near the pass of Nukb el Asfar. This is the Wady el Musireh of former maps, which confused it with Wady Dar el Jerir and Wady Lueit, and carried it into the Wady el Aujah, instead of into Wady el Obeideh. It also receives the Shukh ed Dub'a, and then begins to cross the low hills on its way to the Ghor, and to its junction with Wady el 'Aujah in the depths of the Zor.

THE MINOR BASIN OF WADY MESA'ADET 'AiSA.

A small group of secondary basins succeeds the el 'Aujah, and intervenes between its outfall and that of Wady Nuei'a- meh. The only notable one amongst them is Wady Mesa'adet 'Aisa or '* the Ascension of Jesus," with several small branches, which drain the eastern side of the southern part of the detached hills, from the Maidan el 'Abd to the 'Osh el Ghurab or " Eaven's Nest " a traditional Mountain of the Temptation of Our Lord, from whence the name of the Wady is derived. (Conder's "Tent Work," ii, 5, 10, 13.) This tradition is said to be only attached to the 'Osh el Ghurab at the present day by the Bedawin ; but as Lieut. Conder also attributes to it a " mediaeval monkish " origin, for which he cites authorities, it may be observed that the opposite summit of the Kuruntul* Mountain is reputed by the Eoman Church to be the " exceeding high mountain " of the Temptation. Le Frere Lievin, " Guide des Sanctuaires," 377.

 * Called also " Quarantania," or Mount of the Forty days' Fast.

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88 88 THE JORDAN WATERSHED.

THE BASIN OF WADY

This narrow basin seldom exceeds three miles in width, and it is confined to barely half a mile in its lower course. Its sources, rising on the Mediterranean waterparting, at a distance of about twenty miles from its junction with the Jordan, lie between Tell 'Asur (alt. 3,318 feet) and the well- known village of Beitin or Bethel (alt. 2,890 feet). The high- road from Bethel to the North, runs along the waterparting for about four miles ; and another road follows near it for the rest of the distance to Tell 'Asur, or about three miles.

The curvature of the northern boundary has been described in the account of the El 'Aujeh basin as far as 'Osh el Ghurab; where the interposition of the preceding secondary basin causes the present boundary to bend to the south-east, passing Kh. el Mefjir, and then east along the left bank of Wady Nuei'ameh.

The southern boundary, starting from Bethel, follows the road to Deir Diwan (alt. 2,570 feet), and southward to Mukhmas (Michmash) (alt. 1,990 feet), and Eas et Tawil (alt. 1,964 feet), whence it proceeds eastward along a moun- tain track to Umm et Talah, and Jebel Kuruntul (alt. 320 feet), on the north of which the track descends to the Ghor by a gap in the line of cliffs, and passing on the north of 'Ain es Sultan, follows the right bank of Wady Nuei'ameh to the Jordan which is here 1,230 feet below the sea level. This boundary has a general curvature parallel with that on the north of the basin, and deflecting in a similar manner from the Mediterranean waterparting, so as to interpose between it and the present basin, the north-western part of Wady el Kelt, which falls next into the Jordan on the south. Thus while the north-western part of this basin impinges on the south-eastern part of the el 'Aujeh basin belonging to the Mediterranean slope, the south-western part is divided by a portion of the Wady el Kelt basin from the famous plain of el Gib (Gibeon) or Neby Samwil, which occupies the north- east of the Nahr Eubin division of the Mediterranean water-


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89 WADY NUEI'AMEH. 89

shed. The effect of these curvatures is to facilitate lateral communications parallel with the main range or axis of the mountain system of the country. Facilities of the same kind are also provided occasionally by the course of the head streams, when they run parallel with the main range, and sometimes come from opposite ends of the same valley, before they unite to make a rectangular or an oblique descent to the lower grounds. >

The Watercourses of the Nuei'ameh Basin.

The Wady el 'Ain descending southward from Tell 'Asur (alt. 3,318 feet) receives on its right bank from the western edge of the basin, the Khallet es Sultan, Wady el Kanabis, and Wady Muheisin. A branch having the villages of Dar Jerir and et Taiyibeh on the east, joins the left bank, about a mile south-west of the latter village. The Wady Muheisin runs eastward along the northern foot of the ridge between Beitin and Deir Diwan. After its junction with Wady el 'Ain, the course of the Wady Muheisin is continued south- eastward, and this name is changed to Wady Asis. The wady here enters a deep and rocky chasm in which it con- tinues for five or six miles. A tributary from the west of Eummon ("the rock Eimmon," Judges xx, xxi), running south for about 1^ miles, joins the main Wady at a mile from Wady el 'Ain. Another tributary rising on the south of Taiyibeh, where it is called Wady Abu el Haiyat, passes southward on the east of Rummon as Wady el Asa, and after a course of three miles meets the wady from the north-west. Not far below a wady falls in on the right bank, which rises on the hills on the east of Deir Diwan and Kh. Haiyan (Ai). After this junction the wady trends slightly east of south for a mile, and then bends to the east, and receives the Wady es Sineisileh from the border of the basin near Kubbet Rumm- maneh (alt. 2,024 feet). It continues eastward in the chasm as W. Rummamaneh, receiving the Wady el Harik* on the

authorities (Stanley's " Sinai and Palestine," 201).
 * The Wady Harik stands in name only for the Wady Harith of former


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 the way. The last ri or so leading into Koriyama is over a carefully made wide road, the first piece of real carriage road that one sees after leaving Tôkiô.

Koriyama is a large flourishing place, and its townsmen have the reputation of being wealthy. In the outskirts some branch of silk manufacture is actively carried on in almost every house.

Between Motomiya and Nihon Matsu are some valleys of rice-land separated by hills crossed by a horrible corduroy road. The lofty mountain of Daki rears its double peak from the range on the left.

Nihon Matsu is a large town extending up and down the sides of an exceedingly steep hill. It was a castle-town the seat of a daimiô of 110,000 koku. It is the chief town of the Shinobu Kôri, one of the principal silk producing districts of Ôshiu, and has a silk-reeling factory with machinery copied in wood from that used at Tomioka, and worked by water-power. It is also noted for a kind of sweetmeat called yôkan.

From Nihon Matsu through Hachonome to Fukushima is all up and down terrible hills. At the end of February this year there was a foot of snow on the road nearly the whole way. A short distance before reaching Fukushima one emerges from a muddy village on to an excellent piece of road which leads to a causeway forming the approach to a magnificent bridge over the Su kawa said to be 250 yards in length.

Fukushima is the chief town of the Ken to which it gives its name, and was the seat of a daimiô of 70,000 koku. The shiro has been dismantled, but the moats and banks are kept in good order. Fukushima is a great centre of the Silk trade, and is the head quarters during the season of the Tôkiô silk buyers. Yanagawa in the Date Kôri and Nihon Matsu are the two chief silk producing places in the Ken, which is also noted for the excellence of its dried kaki (persimmons). The town is well lighted with kerosene lamps, and has a telegraph office, The Ken authorities are paying attention to the great want of Japan, the making of roads. In

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90 90 THE JORDAN WATERSHED.

right bank, and retaining the former name till it receives the Wady el Makuk on the same side. The long rocky chasm ceases about half a mile before the junction with the Makuk. The Wady el Makuk rises midway between Deir Diwan and Mukhmas, near the road that connects those villages, and . passes Eas et Tawil (alt. 1,964 feet) in a rocky chasm called W. Sikya. It is the drain of the south-western part of the basin. After the confluence the Makuk is bulged slightly to the northward by el 'Subakah, a spur from the southern water- parting, which provides a tributary from the 'valley on its southern side. The Wady now dives north-eastward into a rocky chasm, where it receives the Wady Abu Jurnan, which rises near Khubbet Eummamaneh (alt. 2,024 feet) and skirts the northern edge of the basin. The chasm conducts the wady to the southern extremity of the enclosed plain, where 'Ain en Nuei'ameh supplies its final name as well as a peren- nial stream, the latter being also augmented by 'Ain ed Duk. The Nuei'ameh now flows to the south-east, and divides the southern extremity of the hilly tract which terminates in 'Osh el Ghurab or the Kaven's Nest, from the long line of lofty cliffs which here forms the eastern base of the Mountains of Judsea. It crosses the Ghor on an easterly course, and descends to the Jordan at the ford of el Ghoraniyeh (1,250 feet below the sea).

THE BASIN OF WADY EL KELT.

The western edge of this basin is about nine miles in length, beginning on the north at Bethel. As far as Bireh, it joins the el 'Auja basin, which falls into the Mediterranean on the north of Jaffa. From Bireh to Shafat the western edge meets the north-eastern part of the Nahr Eubin basin, which includes the Plain of el Jib or Gibeon on the north of Jerusalem, and which enters the Mediterranean on the south of Jaffa,

The northern edge has been already described (p. 84). The southern departs from the west near Shafat ; bends round to Anata, and eastward to the rock of Arak Ibrahim ; then it


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91 WADY EL KELT. 91

makes another sweep north-east and south-east to Khan Hathrurah on the Jerusalem-Jericho road ; then advances by Talat ed Dumm to Kh. el Mestrab, and continues along the ridge between Wady el Kelt and Wady Talat ed Dumm, descending to the Ghor between Khaur Abu Dhahy and Khaur et Tumrar, passing south of Ain Hajlah and reaching the Jordan at the Pilgrims' Bathing place or Makhadet Hajlah.

At the western margin of the basin, its width is about nine miles. Where the head waters descending from it unite, at the confluence of Wady Suweinit from the north-west, with Wady Farah from the south-west, the width of the basin contracts to three or four miles. At the foot of the cliffs that form the base of the mountains in the plain of Jericho, the width is about two miles and a half, and in the eastern part of the Ghor it is about a mile. The length reckoned from Bethel to the Jordan is about twenty-three miles, or nineteen miles direct from Tell el Ful. The Kelt is the southernmost affluent of the Jordan from the west.

The Watercourses of Wady el Kelt.

The watercourses rising on the margin of the broad head of the basin are divided into two parts. The northern part contributes to Wady Suweinit, and the southern to Wady Farah. These unite in the -Wady Kelt, about midway between the western waterparting and the foot of the mountains.

The most northerly sources of the Suweinit are two brooks on the south of Bethel, which soon unite at the foot of Kh. Ibn Barak, where a third also falls in from the north of Bireh. From the junction, the wady runs south-eastward, till it joins another wady on the east of Burkah, coming from the north. This wady from the north, is the recipient of three parallel branches also running south-eastward, which rise on the south side of the road along the waterparting between Bethel (alt. 2,880 feet) and Deir Duwan or Diwan (alt. 2,370 feet). These branches are divided by spurs from


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92 92 THE JOKDAN WATERSHED.

the waterparting, the spur nearest to Deir Diwan having at its extremity about half-a-mile south of Deir Diwan the ruins of Kh. Haiyan, which the successive observations of Kobinson, Guerin, and Conder have identified with the city of Ai taken by Joshua. See note on Ai, p. 95.

The wady from Kh. Haiyan appears to derive from that ancient site, the name of Wady el Medineh or the Valley of the City. From the confluence east of Burkah, it turns south-westward to a small plain on the south of that village, where it receives two affluents from the east and south of Bireh (alt. 2,820 feet). It runs on to the south-east for two miles, till it is joined by Wady en Netif, which has its sources on the waterparting from Kefr Akab to er Earn (alt. 2,600 feet), and passes on the north of Jeba (" Geba," 1 Sam. xiv). The main wady proceeds from the junction for three-quarters of a mile to the east and north-east, up to the entrance of the long, narrow, and rocky gorge, of Wady es Suweinit. At the beginning of the gorge, a wady falls in from the north-west, after receiving a short branch from Mukhmas (biblical Michmash), which is on the northern waterparting within a mile north of the gorge. Lieut. Conder in his " Tent Work," ii, 112-115, seems to place the Philistine camp which Jonathan seized, on a tongue of land, coming to a sharp point between Wady Suweinit and another gorge that joins it on the east of Kh. el Haiyeh and, from one to two miles south-south- east of Mukhmas. According to him the southern face of this point is the rock Bozez or Shining ; and the opposite side of the gorge facing the north is the rock Seneh, meaning the thorn or Acacia, the present name of the valley being Suweinit, or the Little Acacia.

From the head of the Suweinit Gorge, to its junction with the gorge of the Farah, which drains the southern division, the course of the Suweinit is south-east, and its length is about four miles. About three-quarters of a mile from the head of the gorge a small branch falls in from the Jeba plain on the west. The next branch, joining on the opposite bank about a mile lower down, forms the tongue of land identified


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93 WADY EL KELT. 93

with the Philistine camp before mentioned. Three other branches join the main stream on the same side within a mile of the junction with the Farah. They descend from Eas et Tawil (alt. 1,864 feet) on the northern edge of the basin.

The Wady Farah takes the drainage of the western water- parting between Khurbet Erha (alt. 2,450 feet) and Shafat (alt. 3,524 feet). The head wadys fall into the Wady Farah by two branches, the Wady Eedeideh coming down on the north of Hizmeh, and the Wady es Senam on the south of the same place, the junction being in a precipitous gorge one mile east of Hizmeh (alt. 2,020 feet). The easternmost branch of. the Eedeideh descends from Jeba, which has the Wady en Netif on the north.

Wady es Senam, receives the Wady Zimry from the east of Tell el Ful (alt. 3,754 feet). Another branch comes from the south side of the same prominent hill, taking a south- easterly course along the southern edge of the basin, till it approaches Anata, the biblical Anathoth (alt. 2,225 feet), and then bending abruptly to the north and north-east, it falls into Wady Zimry, on the south of Hizmeh.

After the junction of the Eedeideh and Senam, the gorge of the Farah proceeds due east with a slightly serpentine course to its junction with Wady es Suweinit, receiving the Wady en Mmr from the Plain of Jeba on the left bank, and the Wady en Nukheileh on the right, the latter having skirted the southern edge of the basin from the neighbourhood of 'Anata to its junction with the Farah, within a mile of the Suweinit.

Below the meeting of its two main branches, the gorge of Wady Farah turns to the north-east, then east and south, and again north-east and south-east, when it emerges for a time from the cliffs at 'Ain el Kelt, and becomes Wady el Kelt. Proceeding eastward, the Wady el Kelt soon receives Wady Abu Duba from sources on the southern edge of the basin, where the Khan Hathrurah and Talat ed Dumm occur on the road between Jericho and Jerusalem. About two miles and


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94 94 THE JORDAN WATERSHED.

a half before it reaches the plain of Jericho the Kelt again enters a deep and rocky defile, which skirts the southern edges of the basin, and continues to the line of cliffs that form the base of the mountains on the west of Jericho. The wady proceeds due east across the Ghor as far as Eriha, the modern Jericho, situated within two miles of the cliffs ; after which it turns south-eastward, and soon receives a perennial affluent from Tell es Sultan in the midst of the vestiges of an ancient site of Jericho. The Khaur Abu Dhahy next falls in on the opposite bank, its origin being due east of its outfall, on the mountain side. The last tributary rises in Ain Hajlah, a little more than two miles from the Jordan and unites with the Kelt at the edge of the Zor.

Wady Eijan.

Between the Nuei'ameh basin and Wady el Kelt, there is a wady which descends from Has et Tawil (alt. 1,864 feet), and passes eastward to the plain, on the south of Jebel Kuruntul. In the plain it appears to be exhausted in ir- rigation, but naturally it seems to belong to the Kelt. An old road comes down through it from Bethel and Mukhmas to 'Ain es Sultan, but on approaching the plain the road ascends the ridge on the south of the wady, and turns to the south for nearly a mile along the top of the cliffs, before it descends to the plain. This wady has the following names in succession, Shamut, Kijan, el Mefjir, and Abu Eetmeh. Besides the road already mentioned, there is another which runs parallel to it on the north, till both meet at Deir Diwan. This track ascends from the plain on the north of Jebel Kuruntul, and follows the ridge between Wady Kijan and the Nuei'ameh basin, keeping about half a mile or a little more from the other route, all the way to Deir Diwan. On the north of Ras el Tawil, a third parallel route begins, which also runs on to Deir Diwaii. The central route follows the upper course of Wady Sikya or Makuk, in the Nuei'ameh basin, and the routes on either side traverse the hills which enclose it, the western passing along


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95 WADY EL KELT. 95

the waterparting between the Nuei'ameh and Kelt basins, and through the village of Mukhmas. In the direction of these roads eastward from Mukhmas was probably the Hyenas' Eavine, called in the Bible the Valley of Zeboim " The way of the border that looketh to the Valley of Zeboim toward the Wilderness," 1 Sam. xiii, 18. " The border " in this passage cannot refer to the border between Judah and Benjamin, as it has been suggested, because the locality is in the central part of Benjamin. The original admits of being rendered thus " the way of the edge (or ridge) overlooking the Hyenas' Ravine in the wilderness." The Eavine of Wady Sikya would answer to this rendering, and if the Upland pastures of Makuk, Eijan, and Kelt, offered no plunder in those days, then the expedition would have had the plain of Jericho for its destination, as it was quite within reach,

Note on Ai, supplementary to page 92.

The name of Khurbet Haiyan is given to the remarkable ruins on this site by Lieut. Conder. Mons, Guerin calls them Kh. el Koudeireh, and describes them fully (Guerin, " Judee," iii, 57-62). Van de Velde's enlarged map of the Environs of Jerusalem has the same name. It appears on the Survey on the west of Haiyan, and quite apart from that. Dr. Eobinson, who discovered these ruins on the 4th of May, 1838, does not supply any modern name to them. He first mentions their identification with Ai doubtfully, as " the site with ruins south of Deir Diwan " (" Bib. Ees. " i, 443). Returning to the same place ten days afterwards, he examined it care- fully and recorded his measurements and notes. After further search he states that he " could come to no other result, than to assign as the probable site of Ai, the place with ruins just south of Deir Diwan." "Bib. Ees.," i, 573, 4, 5. Lieut. Conder has repeatedly included this site among his own identifications (" Handbook," 254, 402 ; "Tent Work," ii, 109; "Biblical Gains," 5, 20,) without any reference to Dr. Eobinson's prior claim, so that some reminder seems necessary.


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96 96 THE JORDAN WATERSHED.

The light thrown by the Survey on this interesting sub- ject, is too explicit to be passed by on this occasion. The two wadys that flank the sides of Haiyan, correspond to those on the north and west of Ai specified in Joshua viii. The wady on the north was interposed between Ai and Joshua's prominent position on that side of the city, "which appears to have been just where Deir Diwan now stands (Josh, viii, 11). The other wady on the west was the place of " ambush." It is a defile stretching up for a mile and a half towards Bethel "between Bethel and Ai on the west side of the city," Josh, viii, 12. The road between the two places runs along the summit of the north side of the defile. There is a more secluded parallel valley on the south, which may also be said to be on the west of Haiyan. The King of Ai appears to have made his attack upon the Israelite camp on the north of the city, " before the plain " or literally " on the face of the Arabah ; " and the Israelites made their feigned flight by the roads to the Wilderness (midbar) on the south-east of Deir Diwan. This was probably the line by which they had been routed on their first attack on Ai ; and the chase unto Shebarim (Josh, vii, 5) may perhaps be commemorated in Kh. Abu Sabbah, although that name is said to be derived from a family who once resided there. Abu Sabbah lies on the line of the route, about a mile from Haiyan. The " going down " or Morad, along which the pursuit was maintained may be traced by the track to the northern foot of Eas et Tawil, and eastward along the ridge Umm et Talah, to the descent on the north of Kuruntul Mountain, down to the plain of Jericho. This line seems preferable for the purpose, to the " ancient road " through Mukhmas (Michmash) and Wady Eijan, which is perhaps of later date.

This subject formerly drew from Dr. Stanley a dissertation on the topography of the mountains in relation to it, which afforded all the light that could be thrown upon them, up to the publication of the New Survey. " Sinai and Palestine," 201-203. His Wady Harith seems to derive its name from


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97 WADY EL KELT. MINOK BASINS. 97

the Harik of the Palestine Exploration Survey, corresponding to the Harit of Van de Velde's map. But it is hard to say whether the valley itself was meant for the Muheisin at the head of the Nuei'ameh basin, which is the conclusion sug- gested in the first line of page 202, for the last line of the same page, points to Wady el Medineh, as descending to W. Kelt.

THE BASIN OF EL KUEISERAH AND THE MINOR BASINS ON THE NORTH.

The next basin adjoining the Mediterranean waterparting falls into the Dead Sea at a direct distance of more than five miles on the south-west of the junction of Wady el Kelt with the Jordan. Near its outlet at the foot of the mountains, it bears the name of el Kueiserah in the new Survey. It is called Wady Dabor in the maps of Canon Tristram and Lieut. Van de Velde, and Wady el Kuneiterah in the map of the Holy Land in Dr. Wm. Smith's Atlas, the last name being derived from the mountain on the south of its exit into the plain, and it is so called by Dr. Wilson. Its contact with the Mediterranean waterparting is very slight, being confined to about one mile on the south of Shafat, where it meets the Wady Beit Hannina in the Basin of Nahr Eubin. Further south it is bounded on the west, by the northernmost part of the basin of Wady en Nar or Brook Kidron, where the City of Jerusalem is situated.

The northern boundary has been already described as a portion of the waterparting of Wady el Kelt, as far east as Khan Hathrurah. Further east this basin is divided from the Kelt by the Wady Talat ed Dumm, and other secondary basins.

From the head of Wady Talat ed Dumm the northern boundary of the Kueiserah Basin divides it from the secondary basins by passing south-eastward to Jebel Ekteif and Neby Musa, where the waterparting descends to the plain and through Belawet edh Dhehaiban to the Dead Sea. The description of the secondary basins will now be taken up.


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98 98 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

Wady Talat ed Dumm and other Minor Basins of the

Dead Sea.

This wady is traversed throughout by the road between Jerusalem and the Jordan, the road to Jericho also only passing from this valley into the gorge of the Kelt, about two miles from the plain. Shortly before it descends to the plain, the Wady Talat ed Dumm changes its name to "Wady Medhbah Aiyad. In crossing the Ghor it receives the Wady el Hazim from the lower part of the hills and taking the name of Khaur el Tumrar, it passes south-eastward to the Zor, then southward through the Zor and parallel to the Jordan to its outfall into the Dead Sea.

Wady Makarfet Kattum.

About half a mile west of this outfall, the Dead Sea receives another independent wady from the foot of the hills, named Makarfet Kattum.

Wady Joreif Ghuzul.

A mile still further west, a third wady falls into the sea, which has its origin on the west of Jebel Ekteif (alt. 640 feet) about four miles from the plain, and crosses the plain as Wady Joreif GhuzuL

The southern boundary leaves its brief contact with the Mediterranean Waterparting at a point on the road between Jerusalem and Shafat, about a mile on the south of the latter place ; and follows the ridge to the summit of the Mount of Olives. It descends from the summit eastward and then southward, leaving el 'Aziriyeh and Abu Dis on the left, and continues southward to Kh. Jubb er Bum. Soon after it turns to the east straight along an ancient road, until a track falls in from Wady Abu Hindi, near which it is deflected north- ward for a short distance, and then bends again eastward to reach the summit of el Muntar* (alt. 1,723 feet). From this elevated point it turns north-east along the range which

 * Conder's " Tent Work," i, 290, 300, 301.


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99 EL KUEISERAH BASIN. 99

divides Wady Dekakin from el Bukei'a and Wady Kumran, until it reaches el Hadeidun* and approaches Wady Mukelik, when it proceeds eastward across the northern extremity of the plateau of el Bukei'a to Tubk el Kaneiterah (alt. 306 feet, or 1,598 feet above the Dead Sea). Here the boundary of the basin strikes northward to the summit of Jafet el Asia, and thence bends east by south across the plain to the Dead Sea.

The Watercourses of el Kueiserah Basin.

A Wady rising at Shafat on the north-west angle of the basin, runs under various names, along the whole of its northern margin to the Dead Sea. As the Wady Seleim it rises near Shafat, passes on the north of Aisawiyah and south of Anata to the gorges of Deir es Sidd, where it receives the Wady Euabeh coming from the south of An&ta, and the eastern slope of the northern extension of the Mount of Olives. Below Deir es Sidd, it appears to take the name of Wady es Sidr, and runs eastward till it is diverted to the southward by the waterparting at the head of Talat ed Dumm. A road from Jerusalem passes on the north of the Mount of Olives, and after being joined by another from the summit, skirts the Wady Ruabeh and the Wady es Sidr, till it crosses over to the Talat ed Dumm as already mentioned. The pass is called Thogret ed Debr in the Survey ; and to this, the name of Wady Debor or Dabor, given to this wady by former authorities, may perhaps be ascribed.

About half a mile south of the pass, the Wady es Sidr receives an affluent which rises on the Mount of Olives, as Wady el Lehham. About two miles east of the Mount of Olives, the Lehham is joined by Wady el Haud from el 'Azlriyeh, and soon after the Wady el Jemel comes from Kh. Umm el Jemel on the south. The Wady el Haud takes its name from Ain el Haud, the " fountain of the Apostles," about a mile west of the junction, and the same has been applied generally to this wady, which continues from the confluence north-east to Arak ; up to this place the Wady el Haud is

 * Conder's " Tent Work," i, 299, 300, 301.


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100 100 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

followed by the principal road between Jerusalem and Jericho. At Arak the Wady el Haud turns eastward to Wady es Sidr ; and the bounding range of hills on the south takes the same direction towards Jebel Ekteif, from which it is only separated by the intersection of Wady es Sidr. At the south-western base of Jebel Ekteif, the Wady es Sidr enters the rocky gorge of el Mukelik, previously receiving two distinct wadys from the southern margin of the basin, named Wady el Mudowerah, and Wady ed Dekakin.

At Arak also, the road from Jerusalem forks in two directions. The road to the north-east goes to join the Euabeh Eoad already mentioned. The road to the south-east goes over the hills to the junction of the Sidr with the Mudowerah, near the Mukelik gorge, and passes eastward along the brow of the range on the north of the gorge up to Neby Musa ; whence it proceeds across the Ghor to join the road from Talat ed Dumm, at Ain Hajlah ; whence it goes to the Pilgrims' Bathing Place at the Jordan. The branch road from Arak, by Neby Musa, is distinguished in the Survey as the Pilgrims' Eoad. From Neby Musa to Wady Sidr, this road was followed by Canon Tristram, on the way to Jeru- salem, but the rest of the journey was performed across the country to 'Ain Haud. " Land of Israel," pp. 228, 229.

The Wady el Mudowerah has its most distant source at el 'Aziriyeh, which passes Abu Dis (alt. 2,100 feet) south-east- wards, and receiving several affluents from its neighbourhood, turns to the north-east and east at Wady Abu Hindi. On reaching Kabur el Madadi, the Wady Abu Hindi receives the Wady el 'Auwaj from the west, and after the junction it becomes Wady el Mudowerah, and pursues a very winding course to the Wady es Sidr.

The Wady ed Dekakin rises on the east of the hills where the Abu Hindi takes its north-east course, about two miles east of Abu Dis. As the Khaleil Abu Eadt it runs to the east-south-east, till it receives an affluent descending in the opposite direction from the mountain on the water-


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101 EL KUEISMAH BASIX. 101

parting named el Muntar (alt. 1,723 feet) ; then it turns to the north-east, takes the name of ed Dekakin, and receives several short tributaries from the waterparting on its way to the entrance of the gorge of Wady el Mukelik.

The rocky gorge of el Mukelik is about two miles long. It occurs where the basin contracts from a maximum width of more than six miles, to a minimum of a mile and a quarter. The Wady soon afterwards opens up into a great circular space formed by the slopes of Jebel el Kammun, Tubk el Kaneiterah, Jafet el Asia, and Neby Musa, and then passes at el Kueiserah to the plain, where it bends round south-eastward to the Dead Sea.

Besides the principal communications to which attention has been drawn, there are numerous tracks in all parts of the basin ; indeed, Canon Tristram's excursion, before mentioned, proved that it might be traversed in some directions across country. One of these tracks, perhaps formerly of greater importance, appears to throw light upon King David's flight from Jerusalem by " the way of the wilderness," and finally to the Jordan and Gilead, 2 Sam. xv, xvi. Especially does it remove objections that have been made to the identification of Bahurim with Almon (Josh, xxi, 18) according to the Targum Jonathan. See Dr. George Grove's Art. " Bahurin " in Dr. Wm. Smith's Diet. Bib. Almon is also the Alemeth of 1 Chron. vi, 60, and the modern Kh. 'Almit, identified by Mr. Consul Finn and Dr. Tobler, and approved by Dr. Eobin- son (" Bib. Ees." iii, 287), Van de Velde ("Memoirs," 284), Mons. V. Guerin (" Jude'e," iii, 75), and Lieutenant Conder. Monsieur Guerin's reference to 1 Chron. viii. 36, is curiously supported by the Survey, which besides representing Alemeth and Azmaveth, by the modern 'Almit and Hizmeh, adds also Wady Zimrij for the same personal name in this passage. Eeturning to Bahurim, as identified with Almon and 'Almit, it will be seen that there is a track passing from Jerusalem over the upper part of Brook Kidron and the northern part of the Mount of Olives, to Anata, 'Almit, and Wady Farah. Among the well-watered fastnesses of Wady Farah, David

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102 102 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

may have taken temporary shelter, before he hurried away to the Jordan and Gilead. David's intention to take this route appears to have become known to Mephibosheth, who antici- pated the entrance of David and his forces into the neighbour- hood of his patrimonial estate around Jeba (Gibeah of Saul), by sending a present, which met David " a little past the top of the hill " (Olives) but which however the king refused to accept, in consequence of eliciting from Ziba, his master's intention to intrigue for the restoration of himself to the throne which his father had lost, and for which David had to struggle. Perhaps this rebuff became known to Shimei at Bahurim ('Almit), and excited the anger which he displayed along the hill side, without regard to his own safety, as David went either towards Wady Farah or towards Hizmeh. The latter seems the preferable route, because, while David's immediate object was temporary shelter among the natural fastnesses by the way of the wilderness, his destination in the event of receiving unfavourable intelligence was Mahanaim on the north of Gilead. The temporary shelter which David selected with the further object in view, might have been the rocky fastness on the east of Jeba and south of Mukhmas, from which his friend Jonathan had expelled the Philistines. This natural fortress is three miles beyond 'Almit, and fifteen miles due west of the Jordan with a direct and main road to the fords. Here David got the advice to leave " this night and pass quickly over the water," 2 Sam. xvii, 16, 21, and he accomplished the march before daylight. If the more direct route to Gilead had been taken by Jisr Damieh and the Kiver Jabbok, it could scarcely have been accomplished in a night by a considerable body of armed men, for the distance is not far short of eight-and-twenty miles. The shorter route is therefore preferred. The further discussion of this interesting period in the history of David, must await the extension of the Survey to the east of Jordan.


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103 MINOR BASINS. 103

THE BASIN OF WADY EN NAR (BROOK KIDRON) AND THE MINOR BASINS ON THE NORTH.

The Minor Basins.

The outlet of the Wady en Nar into the Dead Sea, lies about two miles and a half on the south of the great head- land of Kas Feshkah, and seven miles south of the outfall of el Kueisirah. This interval of seven miles is occupied by the following minor basins :

(1.) Wady Jofet Zeben rises between Tubk el Kaneiterah (alt. 306 feet, or 1,598 feet above the Dead Sea) and Jafet el Asia.

(2.) Wady Kumran, called Maseb'a el Airneh in the plain bordering the Dead Sea, rises in the mountain of el Muntar (alt. 1,723 feet, or 3,015 above the Dead Sea), which stands between this basin and that of el Kueiserah on the north, and Wady en Nar on the south. The mountain is distant about eight miles from the outfall of Wady Kumran in the Dead Sea. Wady Kumran drains the extensive plateau of el Bukei'a, and a smaller but more elevated plateau on the west, called War ez Zeranik. El Bukei'a is about five miles long by two in width. It is traversed by a high road between Bethlehem, Mar Saba, and Jericho, which is joined at Mar Saba by a road from Jerusalem. Dr. Wilson came from Jericho to Mar Saba by this road, " Lands of the Bible," ii, 24, 25. Van de Velde crossed el Bukei'a from Mar Saba, " Memoirs," 117. See also Conder's "Tent Work," i, 298. Passes descend from el Bukei'a by the Wady Kaneitrah towards Jericho ; by Wady Kumran to Kh. Kumran, which M. de Sauley identifies with Gomorrah ; by Nukb Feshkah to Ain Feshkah ; and it has four or five communications with Mar Saba and Wady en Nar.

(3.) On the south of Wady Kumran several short gullies intersect the lofty cliffs, but the most remarkable feature is the fountain of Ain Feshkah, which has been often described, Eobinson's " Bib. Bes." i, 533 ; Tristram's " Ld. of Is." 249.

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104 104 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

(4.) Wady es Sammarah rises on the north of the Tubk es Sammarah and descends between it and Eas Muakit through a ravine on the south of Eas Feshkah. Near this wady and mountain is Kh. es Sumrah in the Plain of el Bukei'a. These with Wady 'Amriyeh and the wady and ruin of Kumrcm, in the same neighbourhood may also be reminiscences of Gomorrah. See Conder's " Tent Work," i, 298.

Wady en Nar Basin,

The northern boundary of this basin has been described in connection with Wady el Kueiserah from the north and east of Jerusalem to the summit of el Muntar. From that mountain to the north of its outfall at the Dead Sea, the boundary runs south-eastward to Khurbet Mird and skirting the southern end of el Bukei'a, ascends Tubk Sammarah, and descends to the southernmost foot of that mountain and to the Dead Sea.

The western boundary of the basin of Wady en Nar, begins on the Jerusalem road, about a mile on the south of Shafat, and takes a south-westerly direction to the Jaffa road, where the altitude is 2,669 feet, about a mile from the north- west corner of Jerusalem. Thence it pursues a south-westerly course to the Bethlehem road, having on the west the upper channels of the Wady el Werd in the Nahr Eubin basin. So far this basin impinges on the Mediterranean water- parting, but about half a mile north of the Kasr esh Sheikh, its western boundary, continuing on a south-easterly course, becomes divided from the Mediterranean basins by the Jordan basin of Wady ed Derajeh, which includes Bethlehem, and empties itself into the Dead Sea, seven miles south of the mouth of Wady en Nar, the interval being occupied by secondary basins. From the point of the divergence of this boundary from the Bethlehem road, it follows another ancient and straight road south-eastward to Kh. el Makhrum, where it is diverted to the south for a mile along the mountain of Umm et Tala (alt. 2,200 feet). Here the southern boundary may be said to begin. It takes up a south-easterly course


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105 WADY EN NAR, 105

along a range of hills to Maksar Ismain and Bir el Menwa, where it bends south for half a mile and goes on again east- ward to the summit of Kurn el Hajr (alt. 1,460 feet). Here it turns to the north for half a mile, and then eastward to within a mile of the edge of the cliffs that overhang the Dead Sea at Ain el Ghuweir, and half a mile from the chasms that break down through them including Khashm el Hathrurah. Here the waterparting bends round to the northward as far as Tubk Umm Keinis (alt. 617 feet or 1,909 feet above the Dead Sea), where it turns eastward to the outfall.

Watercourses of Wady en Nar Basin.

The valley of Jehoshaphat and the valley of Hinnom, east and west of Jerusalem are the heads of this basin. These unite in a deep valley at the Bir Eyub or Joab's Well on the south-east of the city. The altitude of the valley at the junction is 1,979 feet, the hills on the north, east, and west, are respectively 2,518, 2,469, 2,549 feet.

From Joab's Well, the wady runs south-south-east to- wards Sheikh Sad, receiving a small branch from the valley between the Mount of Olives and Bethany (el 'Aziriyeh), and others of no importance at short intervals. Thence it proceeds almost south as far as its junction with the Wady Abu Aly, which rises near the waterparting and continues to skirt it for more than three miles. At the junction the Wady eh Nar begins to bend round to the north-east and then slightly south of east up to the roots of el Muntar, when it turns south and enters the tremendous chasm of Mar Saba, which is about a mile and a half long between Bir Ibrahim and Bir ed Dikah, the convent being about midway.

Two main roads extend from Jerusalem to Mar Saba. One follows the western parting as far as Bir en Nefls, before which it throws off two parallel roads eastward, the northern road following the summit of the hills that constitute the right bank of Wady en Nar, quite up to the convent; the southern comes from Bethlehem more than three miles to the west, and pursuing a more direct course across the heads of


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106 106 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

three wadys and the hills which separate them, joins the upper road about a mile from the convent. The other road follows the Wady en Nar, partly along the wady and partly on the left bank, up to a point facing Sheikh Sad, when the road continues its south-easterly course across the bend which the river makes in going to the south, and afterwards to the north-east. After coming again upon Wady en Nar, this road follows the stream up to the convent, generally parallel and within half a mile of the road on the top of the right bank. A track follows Wady en Nar round the bend, and others connect the different roads. The waterparting road from Jerusalem to Bir en Nefis, after throwing off the branches to Bethlehem and Mar Saba, pursues its south- easterly course first crossing the eastern head of Wady 'Alya, then following the ridge between the Wadys 'Alya and Surah, till it turns to the east by Wady el Abd, to the junction of Sirah and Theleithat ; then over a stiff hill to Wady Umm Serj, which it descends to Wady Alya and Wady Jerfan. It leaves J erf an where that wady turns to the north, and goes south-east over the waterparting, to cross the basin of Wady Ghuweir, and runs on south along the top of the mountainous crags which skirt the Dead Sea till it descends to Ain Jidy.

Below the chasm of Mar Saba, the Wady en Nar, turns eastward, till it is forced north-east and then south-east in cutting through the range that skirts the Dead Sea, between Tubk en Keinis (alt. 617 feet) and Tubk Sammarah (alt. 530 feet) to each of which must be added 1,292 feet for the depression of the Dead Sea.

The principal affluent on the left bank is Wady Akhsheibeh, which rises in the slopes of el Muntar, skirts the north-eastern boundary, and makes its junction with Wady en Nar, at the foot of Umm Keinis. About a mile above the last named junction the Wady Jerfan joins on the right bank. This Wady has its sources in a series of parallel valleys rising along the line of hills which cross the basin in a great arc from the western waterparting at Umm el


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107 WADY EN NAll. 107

Tala eastward to Mar Saba. Of these Wadys (1) the 'Alya rises in Umm et Tala, skirts the southern waterparting for more than three miles, when it bends to the north-east, receives the parallel valleys and turns eastward, till it enters the Nusb Umm Seibeh, and comes out as Wady Jerfan, when it bends round to the northward to join Wady en Nar. (2) Wady el Areis, begins between Bir en Nefis and Kh. Deir Ibn 'Obeid, or Deir Dosi, the remains of the very ancient convent of St. Theodosius (alt. 2,024 feet), from which Jeru- salem is visible at a distance of five miles, Guerin, " Jude'e," iii, 88. The Wady Areis becomes Wady Surah and finally Wady el Abd, when it joins (3) Wady Umm eth Theleithat, which rises on the east of Deir Ibn Obeid. Their junctions together and with Alya are about half a mile apart. It is the heads of el Areis and eth Theleithat that are crossed by the lower road to Mar Saba from Bethlehem. The most easterly wady crossed by the lower road to Mar Saba, rises on the hill-side where the road bends southward towards the convent. Two of its valleys are on either side of the spur which is crowned by Burj el Hanimar, a ruined fort in a commanding situation. The valleys join at the end of the spur ; and the wady, taking the names of el Makhrum and Hajr, runs to Wady en Nar not far below the convent.

Such an outline of the hydrography of the famous Brook Kidron, as the foregoing, could not have been written before the new Survey supplied the materials for it. Some of its most important features have been hitherto quite misunderstood. The wady Abu Dis of Dr. Smith's Atlas, called by Van de Velde, Wady el Kazir, is the Wady Abu Hindi of the New Survey, and actually turns from south-east to north-west to join el AJadowerah in the el Kueiserah basin. But in former maps it was continued into Wady Aksheibeh and so carried to Wady en Nar, out of its proper basin. The basin of Wady el Ghuweir, which is actually confined to the eastern slopes of Kurn el Hajr, within five miles of the Dead Sea, was extended back to the highland of Deir Ibn 'Obeid, and thus confused with the heads of Wady Jerfan which goes to Wady


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108 108 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

en Nar. The name of Deir Mirbeh, placed on 'former maps, between Deir Ibn 'Obeid and Mar Saba, can now only be referred to Burj el Hammar, before mentioned. Perhaps the former name may be traced in the Bir Mukheibeh, a well at the foot of the Burj.

 * r

THE BASIN OF WADY ED DERAJEH.

The northern boundary of the basin has been described as far as Kurn el Hajr, where the interposition of the secondary basins of el Ghuweir and a series of gullies from the cliffs, causes the diversion of the present boundary southward, eastward and again southward to reach the Dead Sea.

The western boundary, starting from its northernmost point in the great plain (of Eephaim) on the south-east of Jerusalem, continues along the main south road past Bethlehem, Urtas, and el Burak, to the Eoman road which runs south from el Khudr, or the Convent of St. George. Up to this point the Wady ed Derajeh adjoins the Mediterranean basin of Nahr Eubin ; but here it comes in contact with the basin of Nahr Sukereir, which runs by Ashdod to the sea. It now follows the road from el Khudr down to Kh. Beit Sawir, when it bends to the south-east to its termination at the head of the Wady el Biar.

The southern boundary proceeds from the head of Wady el Biar to the north by the Khurbet Breikut ; then east to the Plain of Tekua ; where it turns again south-east to Kh. Tekua (alt. 2,788 feet), and continues in the same direction for three miles ; then it turns east to Bir 'Alia, then south- east to Kanan Eujm Kuddah, where it takes an easterly course along the edge of one of the rocky gorges of Wady Derajeh, until it is diverted southward along the eastern edge of Wady el Kurrat. From the conical hill at the southern end of that wady, it turns eastward to Eas Nukb Hamar (alt. 678 feet or 1,970 feet above the Dead Sea), where it descends the lofty cliffs and crosses the plain to the Dead Sea, near the outfall of Wady ed Derajeh.


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109 WADY ED DERAJEH. 109

The Watercourses of Wady ed Derajeh.

Two main channels with a minor one on the south, divide the waters of this basin. These are Wady el Meshash, Wady ed Derajeh, and Wady Mukt'a el Jues.

(1.) The northern part has its heads as far south as the hills that divide Bethlehem from Urtas, the latter being in the southern division. The junction of all the wadys on the north of Bethlehem (alt. 2,530 feet) is on the road to Mar Saba, about two miles beyond the east end of the town. The northernmost is the Wady el Kaah, on the north of the village of Sur Bahir (alt. 2,612 feet). It descends to the junction along the northern edge of the basin. From a hill between Sur Bahir and Mar Elias, three main wadys run south to the Wady Samurah, which rises on the north of Bethlehem and runs eastward, receiving the valleys from the north, and then passing to the junction before mentioned.

Below the junction the wady is called Wady Lozeh, and runs to the southward, soon receiving the Wady Umm el Kulah from the south of Bethlehem, and the Wady et Tin from Beit T'amir. The Wady now becomes Wady el War, and flows south-east through a gorge, when it is named Wady D'abub, and then Wady el T'amireh. On reaching the southern base of Kurn el Hajr. it turns south and south-east as Wady el Meshash, and descends by a precipitous gorge to Wady ed Derajeh. Throughout this course the wady runs with the northern boundary of the basin, and receives short branches from it. In passing southwards from the base of Kurn el Hajr, it receives Wady el Bussah, and some smaller branches from the central range which divides the basin. This wady was formerly known in general as Wady T'amireh, a name confined in the Survey to a small part of it.

(2.) The southern part has its origin in Wady el Biar, which rises near Khurbet Breikut in the south-western angle of the basin, and skirts its western boundary northward up to Urtas.

[This vale was identified with the Valley of Berachah (2 Chron. xx, 26) by Dr. Grove in Smith's " Bib. Diet." ; but Lieut. Conder prefers Wady 'Arrub in the next basin (Handbook,


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110 110 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

405) ; and Mons. Guerin argues in favour of a position on the south or south-east of Tekoa, and especially at Beni Nairn, Judee, iii, 156. The situations of the " Wilderness of Jeruel," and " the end of the brook," are indicated hereafter on p. 242.]

Dr. Grove's opinion seems to be the most acceptable, because it is more on the direct road to Jerusalem, from the scene of the slaughter, which was on the way to Engedi ; and it is also associated with an existing name, corresponding with the ancient one.

At Urtas the main wady bends round to the south-east to Kh. Bedd Falun and Jebel Fureidis, ancient Herodium,* where it receives the outfall of several valleys rising on the east of Wady el Biar, and remarkable for the aqueduct which is carried along the hill-sides, zigzagging in and out of each valley in succession, on its way from Birket Kuffin near Beit Ummar to el Burak. Below this junction it is called Wady Fureidis and passes the ruins of Khureitun, and cliffs con- taining the great cave* which a false tradition identified with Adullam. The wady is now named after the ruined village, and runs on to meet the Wady Jubb Iblan and the main road which comes through it from Bethlehem to Ain Jidy. It is followed by this road south-eastward up to the entrance of the chasm of Wady Muallak, which becomes Derajeh lower down after its junction with Wady Mukta el Jass. The road turns to the south-west to avoid these great chasms of Wady Derajeh.

(3.) The Wady Mukta el Jass rises on the southern edge of the basin, at Khurbet Tekua, the Tekoa of the Bible. It is called Wady el Menka, till it enters the chasm which leads it to Wady Derajeh, where it receives Wady Dannun and Wady Bassas.

THE BASIN OF WADY EL AREIJEH AND THE MINOR

BASINS ON THE NORTH.

The next primary basin to Wady el Derajeh empties itself at 'Ain Jidy, the biblical Engedi (see a view in Tristram's

Kobinson, i, 478-481.
 * Gender's " Tent Work," i, 294, 295. Guerin, " Judee," iii, 123-139


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111 WADY HUSASAH. Ill

" Land of Israel/' 293),under the name of Wady el Areijeh,that name is however not even retained throughout the great chasm by which the main Wady descends from the upland to the sea, the upper part of the chasm being called Wady el Kelb.

Tlie Minor Basins.

The distance between the outfalls of Derajeh and Areijeh is about seven miles. The interval is occupied by the secon- dary basins of Wady Husasah, Wady esh Shukf, Wady Sideir, and a smaller one not named but delineated in the Survey, and called Wady Marjari in Canon Tristram's survey of the Dead Sea. See Map in Tristram's " Land of Israel."

Wady Husasah (Robinson, "Bib. Res." i, 527) rises within four miles on the south of Kh. Tekua, on the southern water- parting of the Derajeh basin; which, as it runs eastward through Bir 'Alia, and onwards as before described, forms the northern edge of the Husasah basin. On the west the waterparting runs southward, and hugs the precipitous gorge of Wady el Jihar and its continuation as Wady el Ghar, as far as the straight ridge of Sahlet el Muhteirdeh, from which the boundary of this basin makes a sharp bend to the north- east, and again to the south-east, and again to the north-east, around the heads of the Wady el Mukeiberah, and so on to the cliffs at Abu el Rebaa, and the Dead Sea.

At the head of the Husasah are four wadys, spread out over an area of three miles by two, and uniting at Bir Sukei- riyeh and el Megheidhat, where the altitude is 1,406 feet. These are surrounded by the waterparting on the north and west, and by an offset or spur from it on the south-east; which also throws off five branch wadys to the Husasah, from its outer or south-eastern slope ; the southernmost being also the recipient of branches derived from the greater part of the southern edge of the basin. The outlet of this upper plateau through the hills is below the junction of the wadys, where also three tracks meet from the north, south, and east ; the passage westward being barred by the chasm of Wady el Jihar, in the next basin. The Husasah makes bold sweeps to the north-east and south-east, in crossing its lower but


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112 112 THE DEAD SEA WATEKSHED.

still elevated plateau, to the chasm of its descent to the shore of the Dead Sea. The road between Engedi and Beth- lehem, intersects the middle of the plateau obliquely, and the road between Engedi and Jericho crosses its eastern edge, at the back of the great cliffs which hang over the Dead Sea.

Wady esh Shukf is about four miles in length. On the north it has the south-eastern boundary of the Husasah basin. On the south it is divided from the basin of Wady Sideir, by a range of hills extending from Eas esh Shukf (alt. 1,227 feet or 2,519 feet above the Dead Sea), to Khardet Hammameh. From this range the Wady Mekhowemeh descends south-east- ward to the gorge of Wady Sideir, 'Ain Sideir, and 'Ain Jidy.

The Roods.

The following memorandum will explain the connection of these small basins with the roads of the country.

All the roads from Ain Jidi both northward and south- ward, ascend to the plateau by the same Pass called Nukb Ain Jidy, well described by Eobinson, " Bib. Ees." i, 501, 525. At the top of the Pass the roads divide northward and westward.

The western road runs along the edge of the gorge of Areijeh and Kelb, and is continued in the same direction by the track to Beni N'aim, distant fifteen miles from 'Ain Jidy. At the third mile from the top of the Pass, this main road turns to the south-west, and crosses the gorge of the Kelb to the foot of the mountain called Kashm Sufra es Sana (alt. 1,400 feet, or 2,692 feet above the Dead Sea). Here it divides again, sending one branch in a curve south-west and north- west to Kurmul and Yutta, and another southward to Usdum.

The northern road skirts the edge of the Sideir gorge, and passes along the Wady el Mekhowemeh to the south-western base of Eas esh Shukf. Here it sends off to the north-west, the road to Bethlehem, which crosses the waterparting between the basins of esh Shukf and Husasah at the Eujm Nueita, and descends by the Wadys Nueita and el Mukeiberah, to make its oblique passage across the Husasah basin.


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113 WADY EL 'AREIJEH. 113

The northern road passes over the western side of Eas esh Shukf, with the hill of Jafet ed Duwa'arah further west, and crosses the Wady esh Shukf, to its northern waterparting at the head of Dr. Tristram's Wady Marjari. Further north it enters the Husasah basin, crosses its gorge at Bir el Mun- kushiyeh and soon passes over the waterparting and descends into the gorges of Wady ed Derajeh.

The Basin of Wady el 'Areijeh.

The northern boundary has been traced in connection with the basins of ed Derajeh and Husasah, up to the head of Wady Mukeiberah in the latter basin. Thence it proceeds southward, eastward, and south-eastward, along a range of hills dividing Wady el Kelb and 'Areijeh, from the small basins of Shukf and Sideir, and terminating at Nubk 'Ain Jidy.

The western boundary begins on the north, at a point on the main road between el Khudr and Beit Ummar, west of Khurbet Beit Sawir. It passes westward by Ballatet el Yerzeh (alt. 3,167 feet), towards the village of Safa where the waterparting follows a track running due south to Beit Ummar (alt. 3,010 feet).

It continues along the road till a track turns off on the south-west which it follows to Beit Sur, and then proceeds along a ridge to the high-road on the west of Hulhul, and terminates at Siret el Bella'a (alt. 3,370 feet).

The western boundary of el 'Areijeh basin is conterminous with the heads of the valleys descending to Wady es Sunt in the northern part of the basin of Sukereir, which falls into the Mediterranean on the north of Ashdod.

The southern waterparting of el 'Areijeh, commencing at Siret el Bella'a, passes eastward for about two miles, and then turns south-eastward by Kh. el Addeiseh and Bir el Jeradat to the village of Beni N'aim (alt. 3,120 feet). Hence it pro- ceeds by a long ridge south-eastward between Wady el Kuryeh and Wady Umm el 'Ausej to Kod Ghanaim, Hurubbet Umm el Kuleib, Khashm-Sufra-es-Sana, and the


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114 114 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

cliffs at the outfall of the wady into the Dead Sea. As far as Beni N'aim this boundary divides the basin from Wady el Khulil, which includes the city of Hebron, and runs by Beer- sheba to Wady Ghuzzeh, entering the Mediterranean Sea near Gaza.

The Watercourses of el 'Areijeh Basin.

A large and elevated plateau is enclosed at the head of the basin, between the waterparting and a long ridge extend- ing from Kh. el 'Addeiseh to Bir ez Zaferan (alt. 3,000 feet), and Kanan ez Zaferan to the Wady el 'Arrub, which divides the northern end of the ridge from a spur coming to meet it from the northern waterparting at Khurbet Tekua (alt. 2,788 feet). It may be called the plateau of el 'Arrub.

This plateau approaches the form of an equilateral triangle with sides of six or seven miles long. Its main wady and outlet is Wady el 'Arrub, which rises in the north-western extremity of the basin, near Safa. It receives on its right bank all the wadys descending from the western edge of the basin, including (1) Wady Marrina between Kh. Marrina and Kh. Beit Sh'ar; (2) Wady el'Arab, and (4), Wady esh Sheikh, from Beit Ummar, Kh. Kuffin, and Beit Zata ; (5) Wady esh Shinnar, from Beit Sur and the northern side of Hullul ; (6) Wady Siair, and (7) Wady ez Zaferan, from the south side of Hullul, and the villages of Siair and esh Shuikh. On its left bank it receives the outlet of a group of wadys descending from an enclosure between the north waterparting and a spur from it following the left bank of Wady el 'Arrub, on which Beit Fejjar (alt. 3,170 feet) is situated. These include (1), Wady er Eai, (2) Wady Bir el Khanzir, (3) Wady Beit Fejjar (separated by Eai and Khanzir from the village of that name), and (4) Wady Marah el Ajd. These fall into (5) Wady Eekeban, which empties itself at el Meniyeh into Wady el 'Arrub, where that wady discharges itself from the plateau into the long and rocky gorge of Wady el Jihar and Wady el Ghar.

From the gorge of el Jihar and el Ghar, the main wady


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115 WADY EL 'AREIJEH. 115

runs on through three miles of open ground to the terminal gorge of Wady el Kelb and el 'Areijeh, all the way skirting the northern edge of the basin.

The Gorge of the Jihar and Ghar, with the three great branching gorges that fall into it from the west, belongs to a distinct plateau, bounded by the waterpartings on each side, also by the interior range of Kanan ez Zaferan, which divides this plateau from the more elevated plateau of Wady el 'Arrub ; and by another long interior range which proceeds from the waterparting at Beni N'aim and stretches across the basin eastward up to the left bank and lower end of the gorge of el Ghar, where it tails off in a direction parallel with the waterparting at Sahlet el Mateirdeh. This latter range descends from the altitude of 3,120 feet at Beni N'aim to 1,696 feet at Dahret el Meshrefeh. As the cross range on the upper side of the plateau maintains a height of not less than 3,000 feet, there is a cue to the depression of the lower plateau in the altitude at Dahret el Meshrefeh, which is sup- ported by another on the same range near to it, at the well of that name. An altitude at the confluence of Wady Abu el Hamam with Wady el Ghar, or at the confluence of Wady el Jeradat with Wady el Jihar, would afford better indications. But unfortunately for geographers, it has not yet become the practice of scientific surveyors to apply their observations for altitude to the junctions of rivers and watercourses, as well as to the summits of hills and mountains ; although of the two the hydrographic altitudes are of the more importance.

Between the cross range which forms the southern boundary of the Plateau of Jihar and Ghar, and the southern waterparting of the basin, there is a wady which rises on the north-east of Beni N'aim as Wady Umm el 'Ausej and after receiving Wady es Suweidiyeh, becomes Wady es Sukiyeh, and falls into Wady el Ghar, before it drops down into the rocky gorge of Wady el Kelb. This wady together with the great terminal gorge, may be said to form the south-eastern division of the basin, or one of its three divisions which the present exposition of the new survey has brought to light.


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116 116 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

A road crosses this valley and connects a track between Beni N'aim and Engedi with the road from Bethlehem to Engedi. It enters the basin at Kod Ghanaim on the southern waterparting, and goes across to Bir el Meshrufeh on its northern range, and then on to Bir Umm Jidy at the lower end of the gorge of el Ghar, and on northward across the Husasah basin to the Bethlehem and Engedi road.

THE BASIN OF WADY EL KHUBERA.

The northern boundary of this basin, extending between Beni N'aim and the Dead Sea, has been described. Its length is almost fifteen miles.

The Western boundary extends from Beni N'aim south- ward, through Kh. Yukin, Tell ez Zif (alt. 2,882 feet), Kh. Ghanaim, el Kurmul (alt. 2,887 feet), and Kh. Maon, to Kh. Bir el Edd, a distance of about ten miles. It is throughout conterminous with the Wady el Khulil in the basin of Wady Ghuzzeh.

The southern boundary, beginning at Kh. Bir el Edd, runs north-eastward for three miles to Tell et Tuany (alt. 2,637 feet). Then it turns eastward along the mountain of Dahret Hameideh to Khashm Sufra Lawundi and over the precipices to the Dead Sea.

The Watercourses of el Khubera Basin.

Above its gorge, the Khubera receives three important wadys, which are the outlets of three distinct parts of the basin. These are Wady el Jerfan, Wady Malaki, and Wady Kujm el Khulil.

I. The Wady Jerfan has its head wadys spread out along the western waterparting from Beni N'aim to Kh. Istabul. The northernmost branch comes from Beni N'aim as Wady el Kuryeh, skirts the northern edge of the basin and descends to the Sahel or Plain of Abu el Ghuzeiyilat, where it receives the Wady Nimr and another wady from Kh. Yukin.