text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/133

117 WADY EL KHUBERA. 117

At the eastern end of the plain, the Wady es Sihaniyeh joins the Kuryeh. Its heads are found along the edge of the basin from Yukin to Istabul. Two wadys descending from Istabul and Zif unite, and running eastward receive two branches from Yukin on the north, and one from el Bueib on the south.

Below the plain the main Wady continues eastward along the northern waterparting as Wady Umm Kheiyirah and finally as Wady el Jerfan.

II. The Wady Malaki drains the rest of the western water- parting. Its principal source is in the south-west extremity of the basin, where it is first called Wady Kueiwis, and runs north-eastward to enter the gorge of Wady el War and Malaki. In doing so its name is changed three times in four miles. Before entering the gorge a branch is received on the left bank, which rises at the opposite extremities of a valley that runs along the waterparting between Kh. Ghanaim and el Kurmul. Another branch comes from Kh. Saima, follow- ing a ridge extending from Kh. Ghanaim to the entrance of the gorge. On the east of this ridge four valleys rise and unite before descending into the gorge on its north or left bank. The Malaki gorge is about six miles in length, and it is only separated by two miles of open ground from the Khubera gorge.

III. The Wady Eujm el Khulil rises on the southern margin of the basin at Khurbet et Tuany, and drains a valley about nine miles in length between the margin and the Malaki gorge.

This basin is one of the scenes of David's exploits. Ziph, Carmel and Maon, and Engedi, retain their names unaltered except in spelling to this day. 1 Samuel, xxiii to xxvi. Lieut. Conder identifies the hill of Hachilah with the range on the north of the Malaki gorge, the summit of which now bears the name of el Kolah. The Sela or cliff of Ham- Mahlekoth (1 Samuel xxiii, 28) is referred to the Malaki gorge, still bearing the identical name. Conder's " Tent Work," ii, 89-91.

J


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/134

118 118 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

THE BASIN OF WADY SEIYAL AND THE MINOR BASINS ON THE NORTH.

Between the outfalls of Kuberah and Seiyal is an interval of five miles occupied by the minor basins of Wady Mahras, W. el Kasheibeh, and W. Sufeisif. The first two descend from the slopes of Khashm Sufra Lawundi, a summit rising at a distance of six miles from the Dead Sea.

Wady Sufeisif is only separated from the Mediterranean waterparting by the head of Wady Malaki. It rises on Tell et Tuany as Wady Meshukhkhan, runs eastward as Wady et Tebban and esh Sherki, and as Umin Meradhif enters the gorge of Sufeisif.

Wady Seiyal.

The survey concludes with the left bank of this Wady. The western boundary begins with the ridge of Kanan el Aseif, and diverges to the south-east along the Khashm Beiyad which divides Wady Seiyal from W. el Kureitein in the Mediterranean Basin of Wady Ghuzzeh.

The northern boundary runs north-east with the head of W. Malaki for a mile and a-half ; then turns to the south-east dividing the head of Sufeisif from W. Umm Jemat ; then it makes a great curve to the north-east and south-east through Kujrn el Bakarah and Khashm Umm es Suweid, follows the promontory between Seiyal and Sufeisif, and crosses the plain to the Dead Sea.

The Northern Watercourses of Seiyal Basin.

The main wady is represented as rising in Tell Arad, but the cessation of the survey leaves its development on the south quite unknown. On the north it soon receives Wady Khurbet et Teibeh from KL el Kureitein and the western water-parting, while the Wady el Kureitein, which was formerly supposed to join it, goes to Wady es Seba and the Mediter- ranean. The drainage of the north waterparting is collected

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/135

119 WADY SEIYAL. 119

by the Wady es Sennein, which joins the Seiyal in its gorge. The most western affluent of Wady es Sennein is the Wady Mutan Munjid, and the next is Wady Umm Jemat. The next descends through a rocky defile from Tawil el Butahiyeh and finally the Wady el Khuseibiyeh receives the rest of the northern drainage.

The delineation of the cliffs on the south of the outfall of the Seiyal has been considerately extended so far as to include Sebbeh, the site of the extraordinary fortress of ancient Masada, discovered by Dr. Eobinson.* See p. 168.

Every one who appreciates the work accomplished by the Palestine Exploration Fund, must regret that its southern termination leaves so much beyond that is to a considerable extent utterly unknown, while altogether only scraps of information enable crude ideas to be formed of it. And yet it is a region in which some of the most interesting questions of biblical topography remain to be solved. It is the Negeb or South Country of the Scriptures ; and the Eev. Edward Wilton's learned attempt to penetrate the darkness in which it remains, sufficiently expresses the scholarly interest which it attracts. No doubt the extension of the Survey in this direction will have the attention of the Managers of the Fund.

The division of the rivers into primary and secondary basins, has served to exhibit their relations to the great waterparting dividing the Jordan and Dead Sea from the Mediterranean Watershed or slope.

Attention has also been drawn to the parallelism which the upper valleys frequently bear to the great waterparting, which in respect to the general elevation of the country may be considered its main range. Such parallelism is a common feature of mountainous regions, and is perhaps most deve- loped in the most mountainous. This remark is supported in a striking manner in Palestine by the occurrence of the most ample development of upper valleys parallel to the main

303-314. Gender's " Tent Work," ii, 139.
 * Kobinsori, "Bib. Kes.," i, 525, 526. Tristram's "Land of Israel,"

I 2


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/136

120 120 THE DEAD SEA WATERSHED.

range when the mountains are highest ; as in the Litany along Lebanon, and the Wady el Khulil or Hebron Valley in the Mountains of Judea. The feature is one especially deserving of notice in correction of a common apprehension of the absence of lateral communications in unknown mountains. The fair inference should be quite contrary.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/137

121 PART III. THE PLAINS OF WESTEEN PALESTINE.

A further examination of the Survey points to aspects of the country which, while they are connected with its drain- age, are not limited thereby. Such are the Plains and High- lands, which the Surveyors have delineated on a precise and accurate basis for the first time, A description of the low- lands, and of the most remarkable plains that are spread out among the heights of the interior, appears to be a fitting introduction to a study of the more complicated structure of the highlands which have the plains at their feet, and rise out of them. The famous Archduke Charles observed that " Once masters of the Plains, we are strategically masters of the Moun- tains," and the remark is as applicable to geography as to stra- tegy. In this account the plains are arranged as follows :

1. The maritime and upper plains on the Mediterranean slope.

2. The plains of the Jordan Valley.

3. The Western Shore of the Dead Sea.

1. THE PLAINS ON THE MEDITERRANEAN SLOPE.

The Plains of G-alilee. The Maritime Plain of Tyre. The northern extremity of the Phoenician Lowland, or the Plain of Tyre, is intersected by the Eiver Kasimiyeh, at the northern limit of the survey. The southern end of the plain is at Eas el Abyad, the White Head or Cape, and the Promon- torium Album of antiquity. This part of the maritime plain is about 13 miles long, and it was reputed to be " some three or four miles in breadth."* Itenrick made it five miles at Tyre.f The new survey has reduced these estimates considerably. Generally it is about a mile broad, and this is only exceeded very slightly near Tyre, while at each end of the section there is but half a mile between the hills and the shore.

. * Kobinson's Phys. Geog. H. Land," 114. f " Phoenicia," ]9.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/138

122 122 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

The most remarkable feature along the coast is the rocky promontory of Tyre, projected about a mile into the sea, and united to the mainland by an isthmus of half a mile in width, which affords shelter to shipping. An account of this famous site will appear in the " Memoirs," together with other parti- culars which cannot be noticed here. The plain is not very fertile, or its cultivation is limited, but there are large gardens for vegetables and fruit, besides patches of wheat and barley.

The wadys crossing the plain, beginning with the Kasimiyeh on the north, and ending with Wady Shema on the south, are notified in the first part of this introduction. The mountains on the east will be noticed hereafter.

From Has el Abyad or the White Cape, to Has en Nakura or the Hewn Headland, a distance of six miles, the moun- tains Of Galilee extend either quite or near to the sea, and end in lofty white cliffs at the headland, and also at some intermediate places. They separate the Plain of Tyre from the Plain of Acre.

The Maritime Plain of Acre, and the Plain of Megiddo.

The northern limit of the Plain of Acre is the mountain range of Jebel Mushakkah, which terminates in the headland of Eas en Nakura. The southern limit is Mount Carmel, 20 miles distant. The coast runs in an unbroken line, a little west of south, as far as the fortified town and harbour of Acre, 'Akka, or St. Jean d'Acre, the biblical Accho and Ptolemais. Between Acre and the northern cape of Mount Carmel (Ras el Kerum), the coast recedes back into a bay of eight miles in length, and varying in width from one mile on the north at Acre, to three miles on the south, where the port or anchorage of Haifa lies at the foot of Mount Carmel. Dr. Kitto described the bay as about three leagues wide, and two leagues in depth, but the meaning is not quite clear. From Acre to Jebel Mushakkah, or a distance of 12 miles, the plain is about four miles wide. It is intersected by the Wadys Kerkera, el Kurn, es Salik, Mefshuk, Majmmeh, and Semeiriyeh, which descend from the mountains of Upper


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/139

123 THE PLAINS OF ACRE AND MEGIDDO. 123

Galilee, and have been notified in Part I. The whole tract is fertile and well watered, and has extensive gardens and orchards, producing a variety of fruit and vegetables. Its general aspect is said to be that of a rich but neglected plain, where game of every kind abounds.

Between Acre and the foot of Carmel, the plain may be described in two parts, divided between the basins of the Nahr N'amein and the Nahr el Mukutt'a. Both parts have swamps near the coast ; but the swamps of the N'amein are by far the more extensive, and have a length of not less than five miles, stretched out between Acre and the low hills of Shefa 'Amr. The plain is a noted pasture ground. In the northern part along the Wady el Halzun, the Plain of Acre is more than eight miles wide, and generally five or six miles.

The hills that bound this part of the Plain of Acre on the east, form a range belonging to the western part of Lower Galilee. This range separates the Maritime Plain from a series of inland basins that are a characteristic feature of the region. The southern extremity of the range is defined by the Mukutt'a Eiver, which separates it from Mount Carmel. From thence the range stretches in a north-easterly direction for about 22 miles, or as far as the eastern end of the Plain of Eameh, whence it extends towards the Plain of Gennesaret. It is the Northern Eange of Lower Galilee. See p. 199.

The Plain of Kameh divides the hills of Lower Galilee, from a precipitous range that extends westward to Tell el Tantur, opposite the city of Acre, and constitutes the natural southern termination of Upper Galilee. It rises to an altitude of 3,440 feet above the sea at Jebel Heider.

The further separation of the lower hills from the moun- tain range, is defined by a succession of wadys which connect the Plain of Eameh with the Plain of Acre, and form with the plain, a continuous passage for the high road between Acre and the Sea of Galilee, Safed, and Damascus. These wadys are 1. Wady esh Shaghur which rises in the western part of the Plain of Eameh, and after running westward for about five miles, turns south to join Wady el Halzun. 2. Next


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/140

124 124 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

Wady el Waziyeh, which, overlaps Wady esh Shaghur, and runs across the Plain of Acre, into the gardens near the city.

The Plain of Kameh runs up into the north-eastern extremity of the Nahr N'amein Basin, and somewhat beyond into the basin of Wady er Eubudiyeh, which falls into the Sea of Galilee. It is six or seven miles in length, and generally about a mile wide. Its altitude above the sea is about 1,200 feet. The central part is drained by a wady running south, which is met by another wady from the Plain of 'Arrabeh, about three miles distant on the south-east. These wadys fall into Wady Shaib, which runs westward from the confluence, passing by the village of Shaib into the Plain of Acre.

The Plain of 'Arrabeh, occupies the south-eastern projec- tion of the Nahr N'amein Basin. It is three or four miles in length, and gradually expands to a width of two miles. Its altitude above the sea is perhaps 500 feet less than that of the Plain of Kameh, and probably does not much exceed 700 feet, but there are no heights recorded in either case. It has the villages of Deir Hanna, 'Arrabeh, and Sukhnin on the surrounding hills. Two of these represent the Araba and Sogane of Josephus. Deir Hanna, although now only the ruin of a modern fortress, is an ancient site.

The plains to which attention will now be given, are beyond the range of hills that lie northward of Shefa 'Amr. The hills rise from the Plain of Acre, in a succession of wadys and rounded spurs, up to the summit of the range which runs north-east and south-west, and forms part of the waterparting between the basins of Nahr N'amein and Nahr el Mukutt'a. The altitude of the summit is 1,781 feet at two places, Jebel ed Deidebeh and Eas Hasweh. South of Shefa 'Amr, the water- parting bends to the north-west, and follows a spur of the hills to the Plain of Acre and the sea-coast. That portion of the hills which lies between this spur and Mount Carmel, is wholly in the basin of the Mukutt'a, and is cut through by the Wady el Melek, one of its principal affluents. But altogether the hills rise gradually to the waterparting from


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/141

125 THE PLAINS OF ACRE AND MEGIDDO. 125

their base along the Plain of Acre and its connection with the Plain of Bameh ; the slope running from about four to seven miles in length. The descent on the other side of the range faces the south-east, and instead of being long and gradual, it is short and sharp a natural escarpment. The base of the hills on this side is in the great Plains of Buttauf and Merj Ibn Amir ; the former having been the territory of Zebulun, and familiar to Josephus as the Plain of Asochis ; the latter is the far more noted Plain of Megiddo, Jezreel, or Esdraelon, the chief battle-field of Palestine. These hills are part of the Northern Kange of Lower Galilee. See p. 199.

The Plain of Buttauf, together with the smaller Plain of Toran, which lies at a higher elevation about a mile distant on the south, occupies the north-eastern recess of the great basin of the Nahr el Mukutt'a or Eiver Kishon of the Bible. Both plains are drained by wadys which are connected with the Mukutt'a by the Wady el Melek, which last joins the main river in the Plain of Acre. The hills which separate the Plain of Buttauf and the Plain of the Mukutt'a, rise but little above the plains, especially where the plains approach together most nearly; and remembering that both of the plains are parts of the same basin, it seems best to take a connected view of them, and to treat the Wady el Khalladiyeh, which is the outlet of Buttauf, as joined rather than separated by the low saddle which lies between it and the wadys on the south, that run down to the Mukutt'a, on either side of Kh. Zebdah (alt. 350 feet). Indeed Mount Carmel and the range of Samaritan Hills which prolongs it in the same continuous line to the south-east beyond Jenin, should be considered as the boundary of one and the same system of lowlands, in which the Plain of Acre as well as Megiddo, with their offsets would all be included.

Thus the remarkable features of these plains would be observed to the best advantage. Looking then from the point where the eastern face of the hills of Western Galilee meets the base of Mount Carmel, the plain stretches out its great arms to the north, north-east, east, and south-east.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/142

126 126 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

Firstly comes the Maritime Plain of Acre, blocked on the north by Jebel Mushakkah, 25 miles distant.

Secondly, the offset between the slope of the western hills of Lower Galilee, and the lofty precipitous scarp that terminates Upper Galilee, beginning on the west with Wady Halzun and Wady el Waziyeh, and ending with the Plains of Eameh and 'Arrftbeh, being connected throughout as already explained.

Thirdly, the great north-eastern gulf or recess that runs along the eastward scarp of the western hills from Mount Carmel to Buttauf. This recess throws off three arms forming the head of El Buttauf, the Plain of Toran, and the broad depression between Seffurieh and Nazareth. These arms are divided by bold spurs projected from the water- parting of the Jordan Basin on the east. Jebel Toran divides the Plains of El Buttauf and Toran or Eummaneh, Jebel es Sik is the name applied to the eastern end of the spur which has Meshhed and Seffurieh on its summit, arid it divides Toran from the low ground between Seffurieh and the hills of Nazareth. These Nazarene Hills complete the eastern boundary of the great north-eastern recess with its offsets, and divide it from the next great recess.

The Plain of Buttauf is between 400 and 500 feet above the sea, and the hills around rise to 1,700 feet. It is nine miles in length, and about two miles in breadth. The Jewish fortress of Jotapata, which was defended 'by Josephus against the Romans, is in a defile among the hills on the north. At the mouth of the defile is the ruin of Khurbet Kana, which Dr. Robinson claims to be the site of Cana of Galilee, where Our Lord celebrated a wedding by turning water into wine.* Rimmon of Zebulon (Josh, xix, 13) is identified with Rummaneh, at the entrance of the gorge leading to the Plain of Toran. The plain of Buttauf is one of the most fertile in Galilee. A great marsh occupies a considerable extent of its eastern part, and sometimes becomes a lagoon. Dr.

iii, 108. Smith's " Bib. Diet.," art. Cana.
 * Gospel of St. John ii ; Bobinson's " Biblical Researches," ii, 346-349 ;


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/143

127 THE PLAINS OF ACRE AND MEGIDDO. 127

Thomson found the track between Eummaneh and Kana flooded and dangerous.*

The Plain of Toran is 700 feet above the sea. It is about live miles in length, and seldom extends to a mile in width. On account of its fertility, it is called the Golden Plain. On its southern slope is the large village of Kei'r Kenna, the traditional Cana of Galilee, and so regarded by the Latin and Greek Churches alike. The arguments in favour of the tradition are given at length by Mons. V. Guerin.j Lieutenant Conder proposes to remove the difficulty arising from the distance between Bethabara and Cana, by placing the former much nearer, and at the Ford of 'Abarah on the Jordan near Beisan, instead of at the fords of the lower Jordan near Jericho. But he is still disposed to prefer the traditional site for Cana of Galilee, before Dr. Kobinson's ; at the same time he points to another candidate in 'Ain Kana, between Nazareth and er Eeineh.J

The mountain spur which bounds the Plain of Toran on the south, has the village of el Meshhed (alt. 1,254 feet) on its summit. It is the reputed birth and burial place of the Prophet Jonah. From this point the southern boundary of the Plain of el Buttauf, is found in the continuation from Meshhed of the hill which has Seffurieh on its summit (alt. 813 feet), and which descends to Wady el Khalladiyeh, where it meets a spur from Tell Seraj Allauneh, coming down on the eastern side of Wady el Ashert.

Between this boundary and the Nazarene Hills, which have their western termination at Semunieh (alt. 623 feet), is the hollow or low ground to which the name of the Sahel or Plain of Seffurieh may be conveniently applied and restricted towards the north ; although it is at present written on the map somewhat further to the north than seems desirable for the purpose of geographical definition. The Kustul Seffurieh

 * " Land and Book," 426.

t " Galilee " i, 168-182.

J Conder's " Handbook," 321 ; " Tent Work," ii, 64-68.

Guerin, " Galilee," i, 165-168.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/144

128 128 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

eomes out towards the middle of this plain, which forms the third and last offset from the great north-eastern recess. SeffurieKis all that remains of the ancient fortress of Sepphoris or Diocaesareia, anciently one of the strongest and largest places in Galilee, and often mentioned by Josephus, but never in the Bible. It is the reputed home of the parents of Mary, the mother of Our Lord. Semunieh is the poor remnant of the village of Simonias mentioned in Josephus and the Shimron of Joshua xi, 1 ; xix, 15.

The fourth great recess of the Plain of Megiddo lies between the mountain range of Nazareth and the isolated cone of Mount Tabor on the north, and J ebel Duhy or the Mountain of Neby Duhy, also Little Hermon, on the south. It is crossed by the waterparting between the Mukutt'a and the Jordan Basins, which descends from the summit of the Nazarene range about a mile east of Nazareth, and reaches the plain on the east of Iksal (biblical Chesulloth), passes to the middle of the plain on a south-easterly course, and at two miles from Iksal turns for about a mile to the south- west, and then southward to the foot of Jebel Duhy, ascend- ing to the summit of the mountain by one of its shoulders on the east of the village of Nein, the Nain of the New Testament, where the widow's son was restored to life ; Luke vii, 11-18. Two miles from Nein, on the edge of the plain, is the village of Endor, retaining the name which it bore in the far-off days of Saul.

This portion of the waterparting divides the heads of Wady el Muweileh, an affluent of Nahr el Mukutt'a from those of Wady esh Sherrar, which becomes Wady el Bireh in its lower course to the Jordan. The receding plain begins between Tell Shadud on the Nazareth Eoad, and el Fuleh at the western foot of Jebel Duhy. It extends eastward for 12 miles, as far as the junction of Wady Shomer from the north, where the hills close in upon the descent of the valley to the Jordan. The length of the recess is equally divided between the two basins ; but the width, which is from three to four miles up to Mount Tabor, becomes reduced to one or two


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/145

129 THE PLAINS OF ACRE AND MEGIDDO. 129

miles on the south of that mountain. The Wady Bireh was traversed by Dr. Tristram,* but he was unable to visit the grand ruined fortress of Kaukab el Hauwa or the " Star in the Air," so called by the Arabs from its prominent and lofty site, at the junction of Wady Bireh with the Jordan Valley (alt. 975 feet, or about 1,900 feet above the Jordan). Descriptions of the view from Mount Tabor are given by Dr. Eobinsou;t and from Jebel Duhy by Lieutenant Conder.J

The fifth recess is formed by the Valley of Jezreel or Nahr Jalud, lying between Jebel Duhy and Mount Gilboa. It is rather a broad avenue to and from the plain, than a part of it, for at the entrance it begins a rapid descent from the plain to the Jordan at the average rate of nearly 80 feet to a mile. Still its general aspect persuaded Dr. Eobinson to regard it as an arm or branch of the great plain. The water- parting from the summit of Jebel ed Duhy passes down to the plain at the village of El 'Afuleh in a south-westerly curve. The altitude at the village is 260 feet. From El 'Afuleh the waterparting curves round to the south- east as far as the village of Zerin (alt. 402 feet) at the northern extremity of Mount Gilboa ; skirting in its course the edge of the descent of the valley of Jezreel. From Zerin the waterparting passes southward for a mile, and then turns south-east along the crest of Mount Gilboa, a name unknown to the natives, who have no general appellation for the range. Robinson describes the ascent to Zerin from the south as scarcely perceptible, but on reaching the village, it was found " standing on the brow of a very steep rocky descent of 100 feet or more towards the north-east."! | The valley has been already noticed in Part I.

The sixth and last recess of the great plain occupies the south-eastern angle of the basin, and lies between Mount Gilboa and the south-eastern extremity of the range which

 * " Land of Israel," 453, 454. f " Bib. Kes.," ii, 354.

J " Tent Work," i, 120. " Bib. Kes.," ii, 320.

 * " Bib. Res.," ii, 319.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/146

130 130 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

continues along the plain in an unbroken line to Mount Carmel and the Bay of Acre. This range is formed by the final escarpment of the Hills of Samaria or Mount Ephraim. The entrance of this recess may be located along a track between Sily and Zerin, where its width is six miles ; and it runs back into the mountains for about nine miles, the width above Jenin and Arraneh being reduced to two miles.

The arms or recesses of the great plain are so thoroughly connected with the central part, that a separate account of each of them may appear to detract from the magnitude which the landscape in every case actually presents. Thus, from Jenin the view extends across the plain northward to Nazareth, a distance of 17 miles ; although the imaginary line across the mouth of the recess is only six or seven miles away. Towards the north-west, the plain is seen extending for fully 20 miles, with Mount Carmel beyond. Similar remarks may be made in each case.

The central part of the Plain may be considered to extend along the Samaritan Hills from ik& gorge of the Mukutt'a, on the north-west, to Sily on the south-east, a length of 15 miles. The width of this part may be taken between the Samaritan Hills and the ends of the opposite spurs which divide the arms and face these hills ; and it may be reckoned at six or seven miles in each case, viz., the Nazarene. Hills, Jebel Duhy, and Zerin at the foot of Mount Gilboa.

A few eminences occurring in this part scarcely serve to disturb its generally level aspect. The most remarkable is a low promontory thrown out from the Samaritan Hills towards the recess between the Nazarene range and Jebel Duhy. Its extremity is marked by ruins named Ludd (alt. 275 feet), the Eiver Mukutt'a at the foot of the hill being 181 feet. On the other side of the Mukutt'a towards the north, there is an eminence of similar height, dominated by the hamlet of el Warakany (alt. 277 feet). This appears to be connected with the more prominent termination of the Nazarene range at Ikneifis (alt. 508 feet). That a certain importance has been attached to these features is evident from the following


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/147

131 THE PLAINS OF ACRE AND MEG1DDO. 131

facts. The main road from the maritime plain of Sharon to Nazareth, passes from El Lejjun to Ludd, and then across the Mukutt'a, to what is probably a saddle connecting el Warakany with Tell Shadud, near Ikneifis. On the south side of this pass, the Romans had the military station of Legio, now el Lejjun, and most authorities agree in placing the Jewish Megiddo among the remarkable ruins spread around the natural fastness of Tell el Mutasellim, on this promontory. This opinion is, however, not entertained by Lieutenant Conder.

The other principal roads in the great plain are : (1.) The highway from the coast at Haifa, along the foot of Carmel, and the continuing hills to Lejjun, Jenin, Beisan, and the east of Jordan. This road of course intercepts all communi- cations from the north and south. A road from Acre falls into it at the gorge of the Mukutt'a, on the west of Sheikh Abreik, and it is followed by the telegraph line from the south. A road from Lejjun crosses the plain to the foot of Jebel Duhy, where it is met by roads between Jenin and Nazareth, both of which are centres of highways in all directions.

THE MARITIME PLAINS, SOUTH OF CARMEL.

The bold headland of Carmel, thrust out into the midst of the sea, appears to cut off communication along the shore, between the plain of Acre and the western side of the moun- tain. But it is not so, for unlike Ras en Nakura, the base of the mountain is separated from the coast line by an ample strand, traversed by one of the chief highways of the country. At Tell es Semakh, the width of the strand is 200 yards. Here is the northern end of the plain, that continues south- ward without much interruption throughout Palestine and the Desert beyond, to the shores of Egypt.

The width of the plain gradually increases, until about 9 miles south of Tell es Semakh, at Athlit and beyond the projection of the coast to the westward, extends the breadth of the plain to 2 miles. This continues with little variation for about 12 miles further south, when the Nahr ez Zerka, or


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/148

132 132 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

Crocodile Eiver, crosses the plain, and the line of hills which has been followed so far for 21 miles, with descents often rocky and picturesque, comes bo an end, in a bold bluff thrust out to the south, and filling up a great bend of the river. Tliis feature is called el Khashm, and rises to a height of 554 feet, where it falls in with the main body of the highland. Several ancient sites are found along the narrow plain, which,.may be called the Plain of Tanturah. Tell es Seinakh, at its northern end, is identified with Sycaminon. Ed Deir, with the Ashlul el Haiyeh, and the caves and springs adjoining, are the remains of the Convent of St. Margaret or St. Brocardus, the spring of Elijah, and the valley of the Martyrs (monks). Kh. Kefr es Samir, is the remnant of the Castra Samaritorum.* Athlit was the landing-place and castle of the Crusading Pilgrims, with Kh. Dustrey, or the Tower of Destroit, guarding a narrow pass in the neighbourhood. Jeba, is the "Geba of the Horsemen," colonised by Herod.f

Before leaving this part of the plain, it should be noticed that a line of sandhills, and sometimes rocks, skirts the shore as far as Athlit, and then continues on in the same direction, while the shore is advanced so as to leave a strip of land with jungle, between the sandhills and the sea up to Csesarea, which is between two and three miles south of the Zerka. Between the ruined sites of Athlit and Csesarea, are also found the ruins of Tantura or Dor, and Surafend, with some others.J Many Arab families find shelter among the ruins.

The Plain of Sharon.

The Nahr ez Zerka is the northern limit of the famous Plain of Sharon, which extends southward for 44 miles to the Nahr Eubin, and is there divided from the Plain of Philistia by the mouth of the river, and a line of heights on the south of Eamleh. At its northern extremity, the Plain of Sharon expands eastward of the promontory of El Khashm in a bold recess,

f Josephus, " Wars," III, iii, 11.
 * Conder's " Handbook," 210.

t Wilson's " Land of the Bible," ii, 248-253. Guerin, " Samarie, 1 ' ii, 301-339. Conder's " Tent Work," ch. vi, vii; " Handbook," 310.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/149

133 THE PLAIN OF SHARON. 133

giving the plain a width of eight miles at Csesarea. About six miles further south the width is ten miles, and towards Jaffa it extends to eleven and twelve miles.

The foot of the highland on the east is well defined all along the plain, for although the slope of the plain gradually approaches towards 200 feet above the sea, the hills rise sharply from it to 300 and 400 feet. Within four or five miles, altitudes exceeding 1,000 feet occur throughout the range, and further back the heights frequently rise above 3,000 feet. The foot of the highland is also generally marked either by the high road, or by another parallel to it.

The plain is by no means uniformly level, for blocks and ranges of low hills occur over a large extent of it. Some are well wooded, and there is quite a forest of oaks in the northern part near Kerkur. The low range along the coast which has been traced to Csesarea, continues to Jaffa ; and the line of hills in the narrow part of the plain north of Caesarea, may also be traced southward to the same extent, in a much less elevated and less prominent shape.

Between Nahr Iskanderuneh and Nahr el 'Auja, there is a considerable cluster of hills about 20 miles in length, and from five to eight miles wide. Only their outer slopes con- tribute to the aforesaid rivers, which are here permanent. The interior constitutes a distinct basin drained by Nahr el Falik, which, previous to this survey, was supposed to extend far back into the mountains. The highest summit of these hills seems to be at Deir Asfin (alt. 302 feet), near which a saddle connects them with the eastern highland, and forms a portion of the waterparting between the basins of El 'Auja and Iskanderuneh. These Falik Hills are separated from the eastern highland by the Valley of Kulunsaweh on the north of the saddle, and by the Wady Kalkilieh on the south, and through both a high road passes from Jaffa to the north.

Another isolated mass occurs on the south of Nahr el 'Auja, and rises close to the gardens on the east of Jaffa. Its summit is named Dhahr Selmeh (alt. 275 feet), and it extends eastward for seven or eight miles, with traces of an ancient forest in that direction.

K


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/150

134 134 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

A more considerable group begins to rise between Jaffa and Eamleh ; and the waterparting between Nahr el 'Auja and Nahr Eubin, crosses this range at altitudes of 240 and 260 feet, passing south of er Eamleh to Abu Shusheh (alt. 756 feet). This is the division between the Plain of Sharon and Philistia ; the ancient Philistine border town of Ekron, being now found in the village of Akir, about five miles south-west of er Eamleh. These may be called the Eamleh Hills.

The two principal groups of hilly ground divide the more level portions of the Plain of Sharon into three parts. The most extensive reaches from the northern extremity of the plain to the head of the Kulunsaweh Valley, a length of 24 miles. This tract is divided between three distinct river basins, which are those of the Nahr Zerka, the Nahr el Mefjir, and the Nahr Iskanderuneh. The waterparting on the plain between Zerka and el Mefjir is in the midst of the Oak Forest before noticed ; that between Mefjir and Iskanderuneh lies between Kakon and Jelameh, and runs on to the semicircular line of hills with the village of Zelefeh (alt. 101 feet). The Zerka basin only runs back to the waterparting of the Mukutt'a between Jarah and Musmus. The Mefjir extends up to the Jordan basin on both sides of the Merj el Ghuruk. The Iskanderuneh basin is also in contact with the Jordan basin between Yasid and Mount Gerizim. (See Part I.)

The second and third portions of the level plain are in the basin of El 'Auja, and they are divided by the Dhahr Selmeh Hills. Through the central portion on the north of the hills, comes down the Wady Kanah and Wady Balut ; the first by Jiljilieh, and the next on the south of Mejdel Yaba. These descend from the Jordan waterparting between Mount Gerizim and Bethel.

The southernmost level portion of Sharon receives the great Wadys Budrus and Selman. These barely touch the Jordan basin between Bethel and Bireh, being separated from other parts on the north and south, by the overlapping of the adjoining basins. This division of the 'Auja basin is of equal width with the northern division. The Budrus enters the plain on the north of Haditheh, as Wady es Surar. The


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/151

135 THE PLAIN OF SHARON. 135

Selman passes on the northern side of the town of Ludd, as Wady Ludd and Wady Razia, and it unites with the Budrus at Kefr Ana in the midst of the level.

The view of all this region from the Tower of Eamleh is described by Dr. Robinson as " rarely surpassed in richness and beauty."* Dr. Thomson declares it to be " inexpressibly grand, the whole plain of Sharon from the mountains of Judea and Samaria to the sea, and from the foot of Carmel to the sandy deserts of Philistia, lies spread out like an illuminated

map."t

Such are the features of this famous plain as they have been for the first time clearly defined by the survey. Its villages and ancient sites will be noted in the Memoirs. The most complete account of them, hitherto, is given by M. Guerin in his volumes on Samaria, but he was unable to detect the erroneous representation of the principal streams which was then accepted, and thus confounds Wady Shair with Nahr el Falik, with the result of confusing Wady Shair with Wady Kanah, which is 15 miles further south, and also Micmethah with Kakon.J

The following upland plains are connected with the mari- time region in various ways, which will be explained.

The Plain of 'Arrdbeh or Dothan.

The Nahr el Mefjir crosses the Plain of Sharon on the south of Caesarea, and the upper part of its basin includes a series of plains which, but for the outlet of their waters into the Plain of Sharon, would be more nearly related to the south-eastern recess of the Merj Ibn Amir, the Plain of Esdraelon or Megiddo.

The Plain of 'Arrabeh or Dothan, where Joseph was seized, and sold by his jealous brethren, is connected with the maritime plain by Wady Abu Nar, and continues to be a highway between the Mediterranean and the east of Jordan, as it was in Jacob's time. Dr. Eobinson, on his last journey,

f " Land and Book," 530. J Guerin, " Samarie," ii, 346.
 * " Biblical Kesearches," ii, 231.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/152

136 136 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

viewed the plain from Yabud, a village on the hills above its western end ; and he noticed its outlet through Wady el Wesa, which lower down becomes Wady el Ghamik, and afterwards Wady Abu Nar, an affluent of Nahr el Mefjir.*

The distance between the plains of Sharon and 'Arrabeh is eight or nine miles ; and between the eastern end of the Plain of 'Arrabeh and the Plain of Megiddo, is only two miles. Dr. Kobinson describes the Plain of 'Arrabeh as " appearing like a bay or offset, running up (from the Plain of Megiddo), among the southern hills, "f Altogether the distance between Jenin and the Plain of Sharon is 17 or 18 miles. Further north, the distance between the plains of Sharon and Megiddo is about 12 miles, folio wing the high road between Kh. es Sumrah and el Lejjun. The altitude of the plain above the sea is about 800 feet at its eastern end, and 700 feet at the western outlet.

At its south-eastern extremity, the Plain of 'Arrabeh is connected with a series of upland plains extending from the southern end of Mount Gilboa, along the Mediterranean and Jordan waterparting to the mountain range on the north of Samaria; these are: (1.) The upper plateau of Wady es Selhab. (2.) The Merj el Ghuruk, devoid of outlet, a luxuriant corn-field in summer, and a marsh or lagoon in winter. (3.) The plain on the north of Fendakumieh noticed byVandeVelde ("Memoirs," 236). The altitude of these three plains is about the same, viz., 1,200 feet.

The Plains of Mukhnah, Rujib, 'Askar, and Sdlim.

The northern end of these continuous plains lies on the east of Nablus, from whence they extend in two arms, one of which runs for six miles southwards along the Jerusalem road ; while the other stretches for five miles to the south-east, and terminates at Tana. The southern part, or Sahel Mukhnah, is drained into the Plain of Sharon, 17 miles distant, by the Wady Kanah ; but there is no other connection with the maritime plain except by mountainous tracts. The other parts have their

 * "Bib. Kes.," iii, 123, 124.

f Koh. " Phys. Geog. Holy Land," 122.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/153

137 THE PLAIN OF PHILISTIA. 137

waters carried to the Jordan by Wady Far'ah. (see page 73). The altitude varies from 1,800 feet at the head of the eastern arm, to 1,600 feet at the outlet of the southern end.

The Plain of Philistia.

From the sandy range of hills on the south of Kamleh, the plain extends to Gaza and the extremity of the survey ; beyond which it is prolonged through the desert called in Scripture the Wilderness of Shur. The length of the Phi- listian coast-line is about 40 miles ; from Ekron on the north to the hills on the south, which divide Wady Hesy from Wady Sheriah, is only 30 miles. The difference is mainly due to the obliquity of the coast-line.

The whole of Philistia is included in the Shephelah, or lowland country ; but like the lowlands of Scotland, the plains are only a part of the lowland, the hills forming a large pro- portion of the total area. The eastern border of Philistia or the Shephelah, dividing the lowland hills from the Highland of Judaea, can now be traced through the natural features of the country made known by the Survey. For the present the plain alone will be discussed.

Like the Plain of Sharon, this southern tract is also broken up by low hills, which are quite inferior to the more elevated division of the lowland. The long line formed by the descent of the- highland to the Plain of Sharon, is in some degree preserved in the Philistine plain, as far as 'Arak el Menshiyeh ; but the whole aspect is less regular. At Akir (Ekron), and at 'Arak el Menshiyeh, there are broad plains, which make recesses in the general line of the higher hills. These are watered or intersected by the main branches of the Nahr Rubin and the Nahr Sukereir respectively.

Between these plains are low hills rising to 300 feet, and enclosing a hollow tract about five miles across, with the vil- lage of el Mesmiyeh in the centre, and others around, drained by affluents of the Sukereir. Through the south of this hollow passes the Wady es Sunt, which, under various names, collects many branches from the highland between Bethlehem and Hebron, and brings them into a focus at


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/154

138 138 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

the foot of the highland in the Valley of Elah, the battle- field of David and Goliath. From hence the wady passes westward through the hills of the Shephelah by a crooked gorge, which begins on the east at the foot of Shuweikeh, the site of Shocoh, and debouches into the plain at the foot of Tell es San, the Crusaders' Blanchegarde, and most probably the biblical Libnah. The plain here consists of the low rolling plateau which encloses the hollow around Mesmiyeh. Over this plateau fled the Philistines after the death of Goliath, northward to the Plain and City of Ekron, and southward across the Plain of 'Arak el Menshiyeh to Gath, by the way to Shaaraim. 1 Sam. xvii, 52.

The Nahr Eubin comes down to the Plain of Ekron from sources at Beeroth, which lies due east of the outfall ; but the basin makes a great semicircular sweep to the south, including the Plain of Gibeon, and passing west of Jerusalem ; it also takes in the Plain of Eephaim, and extends as far south as 'Ain Shems (Beth Shemesh), where it is at the foot of the highland, having collected all the drainage between Beeroth and Bethlehem. From 'Ain Shems it passes through the hills of the Shephelah, by the broad Wady es Surar, in the midst of Samson's country, which looks down on the Plain of Ekron, The plain is about six miles across, and a spur from the Bamleh heights separates it from another on the coast, about four miles in extent, and containing Yebnah (Jabneel), with other villages. Between the Plain of Yebnah and the sea-shore, is a sandy down three miles in width, and forming part of a series, which from Jaffa southwards, takes the place of the narrow sandhills which skirt the shore northward.

The Plain of 'Arak el Menshiyeh (so called here for con- venience in the absence of any other name), is more con- siderable than the Plain of Ekron, being 14 miles in length from the eastern hills to Esdud (AshdodX and four or five miles in breadth. Dr. Kobinson crossed from Tell es Safi to Keratiya on the way to Gaza, and found the scene en- livened by large herds of cattle and flocks of sheep and goats ; the country beautiful and fertile, almost perfectly level, with a light-brown loamy soil. The crops were good, yet


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/155

139 THE PLAIN OF PH1LISTIA. 139

hardly half of the plain was under cultivation (Eobinson's "Bib. Bes.,"ii, 32).

The wady which enters the plain at Zeita (alt. 518 feet), comes down from the highlands between Hulhul and Hebron, where the culminating summit has an altitude of 3,370 feet; the direct distance from Zeita being only 17 miles. The plain below Zeita is probably about 300 feet. Ashdod, on a hillock (alt. 140 feet), at the western end of the plain, is now separated from all that remains of its port, by sand-downs, three miles in breadth. The site is occupied by the present village of Esdud, with 1,800 people, but the remains of this primseval city, once so strong and mighty, are so few and insignificant, that one is tempted to suppose the greater part of the city may be buried beneath the sands. If so they may be in a superior state of preservation, and perhaps repay for exhumation.

From Khurbet Yasin on the south of Esdud, or Ashdod, to 'Arak el Menshiyeh, a range of hills running in a south- easterly direction, forms the waterparting between Sukereir and el Hesy basins, and bounds the plain on this side, increasing in height as it proceeds inland. Beginning with 120 feet at Kh. Yasin, the altitude has become in seven miles 331 feet at Kh. Ejjis er Has ; and the hills so far divide the basins of Sukereir and el Bireh. Beyond this point the range divides the basins of Sukereir and el Hesy. At Tell Ibdis, seven miles farther, the altitude of the range has increased to 450 feet; and nine miles beyond, at Sheikh 'Aly, in the higher part of the She- phelah, it is 1,367 feet. It may be called the Sukereir Range.

South of this range, the aspect of Philistia undergoes a change. The plains give way to hill and dale. While heights of 1,000 feet above the sea maintain a regular align- ment almost due south, from Surah on the north in Samson's country, all the way to Kuweilfeh towards Beersheba in the south, the lower slopes beyond the range are advanced west- ward, in correspondence with the advance of the shore line in that direction. North of the range, the foot of the hills is found as far east as Zeita and Tell es Safi ; although here


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/156

140 140 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

exceptional indications of the advance occur at Berkusieh and Suinmeil. South of the range the advance becomes general, and is denned by the fine valley which crosses the range from Keratiya in the plain, to Bureir, Simsim, and Tumrah, on the way to Gaza. The change is modified here also, by the valleys which run back from Bureir into the hills, at Tell el Hesy and Huj. South of Tumrah the mass of the hills recedes eastward, and nine miles south-east of that place they send a spur to the south-west, dividing the broken plain on the east of Gaza from the pastures of Wady esh Sheriah.

The range of hills on the west of the Bureir valley is also more elevated and bolder than any in a similar position further north. It has a culminating height of 426 feet, and extends from Esdud to Simsim and Deir Sineid, on the north of Gaza. Of course these hills are traversed in all directions ; but the main road from Gaza to the north follows their western side, and sometimes encroaches on the sandy downs towards the sea.

North of Gaza, the sand-downs are interrupted by the passage to the sea of Wady el Hesy, with the village and gardens of Herbieh on its north or right bank. Mons. V. Guerin gives the Wady el Hesy in this part the name of Nahr Eribiah or Nahr A'skoulan, evidently from the village of Eribiah or Herbieh, and the ruins of ancient Askelon on the north. But it should be observed that Askelon is not included either in the basin of Wady el Hesy or in the partly adjoining basin of Nahr Sukereir on the north. It is in a small coastal basin (like that of Nahr Falik beyond Jaffa) which is chiefly drained by Wady el Bireh and its affluents, and has its outlet in a sink among the sand-downs on the north of Hamameh. The former outlet of this wady, before the sands blocked up its channel, seems not unlikely to have been at Bir esh Shekeir, where there is an opening in the cliffs which line the coast. In this direction also, may have fallen the drainage of Wady el Jabbar near el Mejdel, and' that of the valley on the west of El Mejdel and Hamameh. If the outfall of the basin was at Bir esh


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/157

141 THE PLAIN OF PHILISTIA, 141

Shekeir, then it is there that the remains may be found of Mammas Ascalonis, or the Port of Askelon, which Mons. Guerin sought for in vain along the coast further south, sunset having prevented him from extending his search for the port, northward of Skeikh 'Awed (Oualy ech-Cheikh Haoued) Guerin, " Jude'e," ii, 151, 152.

The maritime belt extending from Gaza and Askelon, back to the hills bounded by the Valley of Bureir, is under the control, exercised from the earliest ages, of one or the other of those ancient places. The whole of Northern Philistia with its open plains, felt the weight of Ashdod up to the crusading times. To guard the northern frontier towards the interior, there was Ekron, protecting the passes by Kamleh and Wady Surar. The southern frontier towards the interior appears to have been similarly guarded by Gath. These were the five dominant cities of ancient Philistia. The sites of four of them are well known, only Gath is still in dispute.

The new survey now shows not only the names of ancient sites, but also the natural features of the ground ; and thus the probable situation of a place intended to guard the inland part of the southern frontier of the country, maybe examined irrespectively of other considerations. Wherever the hills on the east of Gaza afford the readiest access from the south into the Philistine Plains, there Gath should be sought, especially in connection with the " Way to Sharaaim." 1 Sam. xvii, 52. An examination of the hills of South-Eastern Philistia shows that the passage from the northern plains to Wady Sheriah, so as to keep out of the way of Gaza, is most easily made along a line running southward from 'Arak el Menshiyeh in the south-eastern angle of the plains. The tendency of the hills and valleys is here noith and south. The ground also forms a sort of terrace or plateau between the descending slopes westward and the ascending slopes eastward. Westward of this line, the valleys and ranges run towards the coast, and form a succession of " ridge and furrow " on too obstructive a scale for a through route across them. Eastward of the same line, the country rises rapidly from a mean altitude of 500


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/158

142 142 THE MARITIME PLAINS.

feet, to heights exceeding 1,000 feet ; and the routes in the more elevated region would lead into the poor hills instead of the rich plains. The salient points in the higher range are : Sheikh Aly (alt. 1,367 feet) ; Keshm esh Shukkak (alt. 1,085 feet); Kh. Umm Kushram (alt. 1020 feet); Kh. esh Shelendi (alt. 1,130 feet).

Such is the condition of the ground connected with the investigation of the site of Gath, to which attention has been more especially given in the Palestine Exploration Fund Quarterly Statement for October, 1880.

2. THE PLAINS, LOWLANDS, AND LAKES OF THE JORDAN SLOPE.

In the examination of the Plains and Lowlands of the eastern side of the Highland of Western Palestine, it should be borne in mind that this division of the subject can only be treated partially, in consequence of the survey being terminated on the east partly by the River Jordan, and partly by the western shores of its expansions into lakes. But obviously, the features now coming under consideration embrace both sides of the water whether those features be plains or gorges or inland seas. It may therefore be de- sirable now and then to take the eastern side into view, on the basis of the information in existence beyond the survey. But after the misconceptions and inaccuracies brought to light on the west by the survey, it would be rash to venture far into the obscurity which lies beyond it.

At the commencement of Part II. a few remarks have been made upon the features of the Jordan basin at its origin, in explanation of these occurring at the northern boundary of the survey including the Merj 'Ayun, which is the northernmost of the plains on this side. The following notes on the Merj 'Ayun will be in continuation of those then made in connection with it.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/159

143 THE PLAIN OF MERJ ? AYUN. 143

THE PLAIN OF MERJ 'AYN, OR THE MEADOW OF THE FOUNTAINS.

Only the southern part of Merj 'Ayiin falls within the survey. Its name Ayun, according to Dr. Eobinson, is the equivalent, in Arabic, for the Hebrew Ijon of the Bible (1 Kings xv, 20 ; 2 Kings xv, 29 ; 2 Chron. xvi, 4), the meaning of both being the same. The ancient city of Ijon is identified with Tell Dibbin, a mound beyond the map, rising 110 feet above the base ; a noble site, overlooking the whole plain, and commanding the great road from Sidon to Damascus.* The map begins at 'Am Derderah in the centre of the plain, which is said to be six miles long, and from one to three miles broad. It is connected with the Huleh Plain and the Jordan by Nahr Bareighit, which unites with the Hasbany, near the junction of the Leddan and Banias.

Dr. Thomson describes a furious storm which occurred in this plain in December 1856. It came on with great rapidity in columns of mist from the Huleh. Ten men in full view of their homes were unable to escape from it, and died in a few minutes from its intensely chilling effects. There was neither snow nor frost nor much rain, but the force of the wind tore up and drove everything before it. Eighty-five head of cattle perished at the same time, chilled to death by the wind.f

An aneroid observation by Dr. de Forest, quoted by Dr. Eobinson, gives the northern end of the plain an altitude of 1,822 feet, the southern end being 1,500 feet, but the slope is imperceptible, the surface appearing to be quite level. The French Survey of the Lebanon, according to the "Carte du Liban," gives the altitude of Tell Dibbin as 1,770 feet, which is confirmatory. It has been said that the natural course of the Litany Eiver is southward to the Jordan Valley,

Thomson, " Land and Book," 222-225. f " Land and Book," 224.
 * Robinson, "Bib. Ees.," iii, 393-375. Guerin, " Galilee," ii, 280.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/160

144 144 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

that is, through the Merj Ayun; and volcanic operations are presumed to be the cause of the formation of the ground which has diverted the river to the west.* It is therefore desirable to compare the height of the plain with that of the River Litany or Kasimiyeh, and with that of the Jordan in the Huleh Plain. The height of the Litany at Jisr Kardeli, the bridge below the Merj Ayun, is, according to Dr. de Forest, 700 feet. The waterparting between the River Litany and Merj 'Ayun is not observed, but farther south at Neby 'Aueidah, the Palestine Exploration Survey gives 2,814 feet. The range which divides Merj 'Ayun from the Hasbany River at Abl is 1,704 feet. North of Merj Ayun, where a single ridge divides the Litany from the Hasbany, between Kaukaba and the Burghuz bridge, the altitude is 2,300 feet. The altitude of the Huleh Plain is 140 feet, at the junction of all the streams which the Jordan carries into the Huleh Lake. A few more altitudes between the elbow of the Kasmiyeh and the Huleh are much wanted. For altitudes anterior to the Palestine Exploration Survey, see Van de Velde's "Memoir," 1858, and " Notes," 1865.

The Huleh Plain, Marsh, and Lake.

The total length of this low region is about 16 miles, and the width six miles. It is naturally divided into four distinct parts, namely (1) The Huleh Plain; (2) The marshes; (3) The Plain or Ard el Kheita ; (4) The Bahr, Baheiret, or Lake of Huleh.

The Huleh Plain extends from north to south between four and five miles, or about one-fourth of the total length. It is bounded on the west by the mountain range which divides the Jordan from the Kasimiyeh, including Jebel Hunin, with an altitude of 2,951 feet, at the north-west angle of the plain. On the east it has the south-western roots of Jebel esh Sheikh or Mount Hermon, with an altitude at the Castle of Banias or Kulat Subeibeh of 2,485 feet. The northern boundary consists of high ground between the eastern and western mountains, rising to heights of about 1,000 feet, and

 * " Palestine Exploration Survey Memoirs," Sheet ii.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/161

145 THE HULEH PLAIN. 145

descending by slopes and terraces to the plain. Dr. Eobinson's- account of this descent is very explicit, but the Survey, while partially confirming the detail, does not fully elucidate it.*

The last step or offset to the lowest plain is placed by Eobinson at el Mansury (Mansurah), where the Survey denotes the elevation by the altitude of 245 feet, but does not mark the edge of the step. See p. 181.

The southern limit of the Huleh Plain is the great marsh, which stretches across from the eastern to the western hills, in an unbroken line. Where the Jordan enters the marsh the mud village of es Salihiyeh is situated. Altitudes are wanting.

The plain is exuberantly fertile, and considering its contact with the great marsh, it is worthy of note that the plain is free from marshy ground in the dry season ; but in wet weather the ground is widely flooded.

The Huleh Marsh.

The marsh extends from es Salihiyeh in the plain, to the northern edge of the lake, a distance of nearly six miles. There is a variable space between it and the foot of the western hills, amounting at the most to three-quarters of a mile, along which a track passes. The eastern side is excluded from the Survey, but according to Dr. Tristram (" Land of Israel," 585), the plain becomes swampy up to the ford of the Eiver Banias, which seems to be at el 'Absiyeh, two miles and a half north of es Salihiyeh. Sukeit, which he reached after three hours' riding, does not appear to be a mile further south than es Salihiyeh, and therefore it becomes difficult to account for his " floundering through several miles over swampy plain," and miles more through ripe wheat and cotton plants. The marsh seems to extend to the foot of the eastern hills. Dr. de Forest passed along the upper part of these hills, but no traveller seems to have attempted to trace the foot of them. Mr. J. Macgregor, in the " Eob Eoy " Canoe penetrated the only open channels that he was able to find among the reeds both on the north and south sides of the

 * "Phrs. Geog., H. Land," 68 ; " Bib. Ees.," iii, 389.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/162

146 146 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

marsh, but no through passage could be found ; and the reeds enclosing these channels resisted every attempt to force a way through them. A continuous channel is delineated in the New Survey, but no explanation of it has yet appeared.

The edge of the marsh for half a mile is a belt of ordinary bog, up to the knees in water. Then comes a deeper belt where yellow water-lilies flourish. Then a belt of tall reeds with white water-lily in the open spaces. Beyond is an impene- trable wilderness of Papyrus or Babeer extending to the eastern side. This is a thin floating crust of vegetation over depths of about twelve feet of peaty mud and water. The only footing is on the slippery roots of the papyrus. Both Dr. Thomson and Dr. Tristram nearly lost their lives among it in pursuit of wild fowl.*

TJie Hulek Lake.

The lake is triangular, with its apex at the south, where it runs into the Jordan. It commences at the southern end of the marsh, and is about four miles long from north to south, its breadth along the marsh being perhaps greater, but the eastern part is unsurveyed. Mr. Macgregor states that " the lake lies quite close to the hills on the Bashan side." " Eob Eoy on the Jordan," 6th edit., p. 271. But the hills have never been properly delineated, nor has the practicability of passing along the eastern edge of the water been yet tested. Dr. Tristram describes the western edge as " fringed for the most part by a bank about six feet high, below which is a narrow strip of deep shingle formed chiefly of the debris of shells, and the bank waving with wheat to its very edge. The lake had been five feet deeper in winter, and its ordinary height might be told by the fringe of oleanders, which grow stilted like mangroves with several feet of root at present high in the air. The water was shallow at this side, for acres of yellow water lilies floated on the surface, and a few patches of white nymphsea grew behind papyrus tufts." " Land of Israel," 589.

The observations of the Palestine Exploration Survey, make

 * Thomson's "Land and Book," 257. Tristram's " Land of Israel," 688.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/163

147 THE HULEH PLAIN. 147

the altitude of the surface of the lake seven feet above the sea, which gives a fall of 133 feet from the confluence of the rivers in the Huleh Plain. Captain Mansell, K.N., made it 273 feet, and De Bertou reported 20 feet below the sea level. Other erroneous attempts are quoted in Van de Velde's Memoirs. The only soundings upon the lake were made by Mr. Macgregor in " Eob Boy," and were found to vary from 9 to 15 feet.

The Ard (Plain) el Kheit.

The beautiful and fertile Plain of el Kheit begins on the north at 'Ain el MeMhah and terminates on the south at Kh. el Muntar, which is on a range of hills forming the waterparting of small streams on the south that flow into the Sea of Galilee. The lower part of the plain skirting Huleh Lake is perfectly level ; but towards the mountains on the west, it is diversified by rolling ground. The length of plain is about eight miles, and its average breadth about four. The high road which crosses the Jordan at the Jisr Benat Y'akub (Bridge of Jacob's daughters), skirts the southern edge of the plain ; and it is traversed by tracks along the foot of the mountains, also along the lake, and in many other directions.

The northern part of el Kheit is watered by brooks which fall into a stream rising in the fine fountain of 'Ain el Mellahah. The southern part is crossed by Wady Hindaj which descends from Jebel Jermuk (alt. 3,934 feet) through deep and rocky chasms. Wady el Wakkas follows. It rises in the Merj el Jish on the north of Safed, and breaks its way down to the plain by a precipitous course. Another wady crosses the plain from Kh. el Loziyeh, and joins the lake near its outfall.

THE GALILEAN GORGE OF THE JORDAN ; OR THE DESCENT FROM LAKE HULEH TO THE SEA OF GALILEE.

The waters of Lake Huleh are nearly on a level with the sea. About six miles and a half north of the lake where the Jordan unites its affluents before entering the Huleh


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/164

148 148 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

marsh, the altitude is 140 feet above the sea. About a mile and a half after the river has left the lake, and near the Bridge of Jacob's daughters, the river has already fallen 43 feet below the sea level. About eight miles further south the river has descended to the level of the Sea of Galilee, or 628 feet below the Mediterranean. This long and rapid descent takes place in a deep gorge, and forms a continuous cataract without any prominent cascade that can be distinguished From the general fall. The gorge separates the Plain of Jaulan, Golan, or Gaulonitis, from the Mountains of Galilee ; and no doubt much light that is now wanting, will be thrown upon the juxta-position of these features by the extension of the Survey to the east of Jordan. The western mountain supplies four streams to the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee, and it culminates at the height of 2,761 feet, on the east of Safed. It is indeed a prolongation of the Southern Eange of Upper Galilee, which rises in the Plain of Acre and runs eastward, dividing Upper and Lower Galilee ; while here at its eastern end the range separates the Huleh Plain, which is above sea level from the Sea of Galilee, which is 628 feet below the sea level. The range thus marks the commencement of the great depression that carries Jordan down to the Dead Sea, where the surface of the water or brine is 1,292 feet below the Mediterranean, the depth of the water or the soundings being about the same, making the total depression about 2,600 feet. It is along this extraordinary feature that the eastern base of the Western Highland of Palestine will now be examined.

THE WESTERN SHORE OF THE SEA OF GALILEE.

At the entrance of Jordan into the Sea of Galilee, the Plain of Batihah is spread out on the east at the foot of the Plateau of Jaulan, while on the west the hills descend with a rugged slope to the river and the lake. In this plain is the site of Bethsaida Julias. The path westward is at a little distance from the water. About two miles west of the river in an open situation at the foot of the slope, are the ruins now called Tell Hum, one of the sites


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/165

149 WESTERN SHOEE OF THE SEA OF GALILEE. 149

attributed to Capernaum ; Kobinson regards it as Chorazin. Conder, following Neubauer, suggests Caphar Ahim, a town named with Chorazin in the Talmud.*

A wady enters the sea on the east of Tell Hum, and leads upwards to Kh. Kerazeh on the hill-side,' about two miles and a half from the sea. This site is identified with Chorazin. About a mile and a half along the shore, westward of Tell Hum, is the small plain of et Tabghah or Tabighah, identified with Bethsaida of Galilee. It is a fishing village to this day. A cliff or rocky promontory projected into the sea, obstructs further progress along the shore, and divides et Tabghah from the Ghuweir or the Plain of Gennesaret.

The Plain of Gennesaret extends for three miles along the shore of the lake between the rocky heights and promontory which terminate it on the north, and the lofty cliffs of Wady el Hamam on the south. It recedes in a gradual curve from both ends, until it becomes a mile and a half in breadth. It is crossed by Wady 'Amud, Wady er Eubudiyeh, and Wady el Hamam. These embrace the drainage of the highlands between el Jish and Hattin. There is also a stream from 'Ain el Mudauwerah which rises in the plain. The ruins around Khan Minia at the northern end of the plain, are considered by high authorities to be the site of Capernaum. The present village of el Mejdel at the southern end, represents ancient Magdala. Mons. Guerin would place the ancient Chinnereth at Abu Shusheh.

South of Mejdel the highland advances to the sea shore, and a narrow track follows the rocky slope around a pro- jection, which shuts out the view of the plain on the north. A mile and a half from Mejdel the southward track enters the rich valley of Wady Abu el 'Amis, with the fountains of Ayun el Fuliyeh near the shore. The wady comes down from Merj Hattin, and from the rear of the lofty cliffs that dominate the Wady el Hamam or Dovedale, together with the plain beyond. On the summit of the clitfs, and over- looking Wady Abu el 'Amis is Kh. Irbid or Arbed, the

 * tfeubauer, " Geog. du Talmud," 220, 221. Conder's " Tent Work," ii, 183.

L


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/166

150 150 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

Arbela of Josephus (Ant. xii, 11, 1), and the Maccabees (1 Mace, ix, 1, 2) and the Beth-Arbel of Hosea, x, 14 Near Irbid is the Kulat (Castle) Ibn Man, the castellated or fortified caverns in the face of the lofty precipices of the Wady el 'Hamam. They were besieged and taken by Herod, whose soldiers were let down in boxes suspended by chains from the top of the cliff, as it was found impos- sible to scale the cliffs from the bottom. They were after- wards fortified by Josephus (Josephus, "Wars," I, xvi, 4, " Life," 37). Dr. Tristram and his party got access to the caverns, after Herod's fashion. " Land of Israel," 448. Mons. Gruerin reached them by means of steps cut in the face of the rock and communicating with corridors and galleries in successive stages. Guerin, " Galile'e," i, 201-203.

On the southern side of Wady Abu el 'Amis, facing Irbid, is the Hajaret en Nusara, a clump of basaltic blocks, on the waterparting between Wady Abu el 'Amis and Wady Fejjas, which drains the Plain of Alma. This is the reputed site of the miraculous feeding of the five thousand ; although according to the circumstances of the narrative, it occurred on the eastern side of the lake. About two miles on the north-west along the same ridge are the Horns of Hattin, twin peaks, which the Latin Church has chosen for the place of " the Sermon on the Mount." It is more certain that the decisive Battle of Hattin took place in 1187 on the plain between the Kurn or Horns of Hattin and the village of Lubieh.

The road from the springs of el Fuliyeh also called 'Am el Barideh, skirts the shore at the foot of the hills, and after about a mile and a half enters the northern gate of Tiberias. A path runs parallel with the road, on higher ground along the hill-side, and enters Tiberias by the western gate. The town is surrounded on the land side by a wall, strengthened by many towers and a castle, but breached in various parts by the earthquake of 1837. It lies along the shore for half a mile, and has a width of a quarter of a mile. The ancient city was of much greater extent. The present town is situated at


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/167

151 WESTERN SHORE OF THE SEA OF GALILEE. 151

the northern end of an uneven plain, extending along the sea- side for about a mile, and running inland for a little more than half a mile at its widest part. The famous baths of ancient Emmaus or Hammath are a mile arid a half south of the western gate of the town. Tn this direction the mountain rises close to the water in lofty cliffs, which attain to an altitude of 1,650 feet above the lake. The highland continues to hug the shore, and bold cliffs descend to the water, the road passing over them until the end of the lake is approached, and also the re-commencement of the Jordan. As the shore deflects slightly to the east, the mountain turns in a similar degree to the west, throwing off, however, a small spur to the mouth of the river. The spur becomes a well- defined mound along the shore, almost cut off from the land by a backwater of the river. On this mound are the ruins of Kerak, the Tarichsea of Josephus.*

The Jordan issues from the Sea of Galilee on the western side of a plain, about five miles in width, and extending southward, probably without diminution, for about 14 miles, when it expands into the great terraced recess of Beisan, for 11 miles further south, or as far as its junction with the Wady el Maleh. Below this point, the Jordan enters a gorge, and continues in it for about 12 miles, that is, as far as its junction with Wady el Bukeia ; here it begins to expand very gradually into the great plain, often diversified with low hills, which ultimately becomes the Plain of Jericho, and terminates on the south at the Dead Sea. Along the western margin of the Dead Sea, and at the base of the lofty cliffs which overhang it, there is generally a narrow strand sometimes expanding to a mile in width and seven to two miles and sometimes blocked altogether by cliffs advancing into the sea.

The following description specifies more particularly the variations which the Valley of the Jordan undergoes, on the south of the Sea of Galilee. It will be confined to the western side of the river and of the Dead Sea, that is, to the limit of the

 * Macgregor's " Eob Roy," 408, 413. Guerin, " Galilee," i, 275.

L 2


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/168

152 152 THE PLAINS OF THE JOED AN.

Survey, because the inaccuracies and defects in the best of former maps brought to light by the new work, gives to the information in existence concerning the eastern side, an in- sufficient and defective character.

The Grhor, from Kerak to Jisr Mujdmia.

That portion of the broad plain beginning on the south shore of the Sea of Galilee, which is found on the western side of the rivers, varies for about three miles, from a quarter to three quarters of a-mile in width, in accordance with the approach or recession of the stream to and from the foot of the western heights.

About a mile from the sea, the western plain is crossed by the permanent stream of Wady Fejjas, which emerges from a rocky gorge, with cliffs at el Kulah on the south, that rise to 1,840 feet above the depressed plain, or 1,179 feet above sea level. The cliffs on the north are probably lower. An ancient aqueduct passing from the gorge along the hill side, conveyed the water - of the Fejjas to Tiberias. The gorge is only a mile or two in length, and forms the avenue to the great plain, or Sahel el Ahma, which stretches westward from the heights that overhang Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee, as far as Hattin and Lubieh. It is very fertile, but devoid of the picturesque, and monotonous.

At the junction of the Fejjas with the Jordan, but on the opposite bank, is the village of Umm Junieh, with the remains of a bridge on the north. Further south is the village of el 'Abeidiyeh, on the western side of the river. From this place there is the main road to the north and south, and another which passes through the gorge of Wady Fejjas to meet, near Kefr Sabt, the road between Tiberias and Acre.

About a mile south of el 'Abeidiyeh, the plain is closed by the advance of a bluff towards the river ; but the passage of the Jordan to the south-east, and the open nature of the ground about the small Wady Umm Walhan, helps to restore and enlarge the plain up to the confluence of Nahr Yarmuk,


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/169

153 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN. 153

from the east, the Eiver Hieromax of antiquity. This con- siderable affluent has had the effect of forcing the Jordan back towards the west, but it quickly turns east for half a- mile, and then takes up its former direction southward, for a short distance, and then returns south-westward to meet another advance of the hills, which close upon the river near the important passage of the Jordan, by the Bridge or Jisr Mujamia.

The GJior from Jisr Mujdmia to Nahr Jdllld.

On the west of the bridge, the hills fall back, and give this end of the plain the width of a mile, which expands at two miles farther south, to a width of two miles, chiefly owing to a remarkable bend of the Jordan, due east for more than half a-mile.

This easting of the river is maintained, and upon the whole increased, in course of the next three miles, when the river makes another sharp bend, and runs for half a-mile somewhat north of west. This bend is the beginning of a reaction of the Jordan towards the west, amounting to a mile and a half of westing, in two miles and a half of southing, the extreme point westward and the commencement of a new return eastward, occurring at the junction of the Nahr Jalud, which rises on the edge of the Plain of Esdraelon, and passes the ruins of Beisan.

Up to this point the western plain has a length of eight miles, from the beginning of this section near Jisr Mujamia ; and its width is, for the most part, about two miles. Besides the Nahr Jalud at the southern end, two other important permanent streams cross this section of the plain, namely (1) the Wady Bireh, which falls into the Jordan at a mile and three quarters south of Jisr Mujamia, and (2) the Wady el 'Esh-sheh, which joins the main stream four miles lower down.

Wady el Bireh enters the plain from a magnificent gorge, not remarkable for cliffs, but for its depth, and for the grand


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/170

154 154 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

fortress which crowns the commanding summit on the south of the gorge, rising to a height of 1,850 feet above the plain, at the junction of the streams. The fortress, now in ruins and only occupied by a few poor wretches, is named Kaukab el Hawa, and was the crusader's Castle of Belvoir or Belvedere. The wady descends from Mount Tabor, about 10 miles from the mouth of the gorge, and passes through the north-eastern extremity of the Plain of Esdraelon, which is at the head of the gorge, only six miles from the Ghor or Plain of the Jordan.

Wady el 'Esh-sheh emanates from the hills on the north of Beisan, and of the Valley of Jezreel, and rises on the east of Jebel Duhy. About a mile south of its confluence with the Jordan, is the ford of 'Abarah, which Lieutenant Conder identifies with Bethabara of John i, 28.*

In this part of the Ghor, the lowest level of the Jordan Valley, in which the channel, of the river meanders, has not yet become distinctly separated from the higher plain ; but indications of such a feature begin to be displayed. Imme- diately on the south of the Nahr Jalud, this feature becomes distinct and prominent. There, the river's winding bed is sunk in a deep flat of varying breadth, called the Zor, which is enclosed between steep and sometimes perpendicular banks, as much as 150 feet in height, if not more, on the western side, to which the limits of the Survey confine these remarks ; the river occasionally washes the foot of the high bank, and elsewhere it is as much as a mile away, and repeatedly half a mile, the low flat of the Zor taking its place. This precipi- tous bank is the limit of the plain, that extends from the top of it to the foot of the mountains. It is this upper plain that is called the Ghor, in distinction from the bottom flat or Zor. Commonly the whole valley, from the Lake of Tiberias to its southern end, bears the Arabic name of el Ghor, or the depression. The distinction between the Ghor (pronounced Eor) and the Zor, was explained by Lieutenant (now Colonel) Charles Warren, in "Notes on the Jordan Valley," dated 21st October, 1868. It is also attested by former travellers.

 * " Tent Work," ii, 64.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/171

155 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN. 155

The Plain of Beisan.

The plain of Beisan may be said to extend from the Nahr Jalud to the Wady Maleh, a distance of 11 miles. The Valley of the Jordan here undergoes a great widening, which commences at the outfall of Nahr Jalud, into the Jordan, and from thence stretches westward along the foot of the hills on the north of Beisan, and up the Valley of Jezreel, to the waterparting between it and the Plain of Esdraelon, or Megiddo, or Merj ibn 'Amtr. a,bout 15 miles from the Jordan.

On the south side, the Valley of Jezreel is bounded by the mountains of Gilboa (Jebel Fuku'a), until they come to about three miles west of Beisan, when the mountain range turns to the south, and forms the western limit of the Plain of Beisan. For about seven miles south of Nahr Jalud, the plain on the west of the Jordan is six or seven miles wide ; beyond which low hills advance suddenly, and reduce this side of the plain to a width of about three miles at its southern end. On the eastern side of Jordan, the foot of the mountains of Gilead runs straight from north to south, and is two miles distant from the river. Among these highlands are Jabesh Gilead and the remains of Pella.

Another abrupt rise takes place in the plain, like that which confines the Zor. It occurs along the length of the broad part, from Nahr Jalud and Beisan on the north, towards the advancing hills on the south, where they are capped by Khurbet Ka'aun. It lies midway between the Zor and the foot of the western mountains, and is parallel to them. The height of this remarkable bank, is more than double of that which confines the Zor, and amounts to 400 feet or more. Beisan is on its edge, and so is the Eoman road which connects Beisan with Nablus. It will be seen that this striking feature, although it stands far in front of Mount Gilboa, is nearly in a line with the hills at its northern and southern extremities, and thus appears to be the proper western limit of the Ghor, separating it from the long and gradual slope which the Valley of Jezreel makes in ascending to the Plain of Megiddo.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/172

156 156 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

The following altitudes define the variations in height which take place in the Plain of Beisan. On the north side of the plain, at the confluence of the Nahr el Jalud with the Jordan, the Zor may be reckoned from collateral observa- tions, in the absence of any on the spot, to be 930 feet below sea level. At the junction of Wady Maleh with the Jordan on the south of the plain, the Zor is 1,060 feet below sea level. The altitudes that have been observed in the Ghor, or the first step above the Zor, range from 850 to 685 feet below sea level. The altitudes on the edge of the second step upwards, rise from 426 to 322 feet below sea level. At 'Ain Tub'aun, in the Valley of Jezreel, nine miles west of the edge of the second slope, the altitude is 120 feet below sea level ; and at the head of the valley, on the edge of the plain of Megiddo, about four miles from 'Ain Tub'aun, the altitude may be reckoned at 240 feet above the sea. The total fall from the eastern edge of the Plain of Megiddo to the Jordan, at the junction of Nahr el Jalud, is 1,170 feet ; the distance being 15 miles. The fall is therefore at the rate of 78 feet per mile, measured in a direct line.

The hydrography of the Plain of Beisan, is obscured by the abundance of irrigation channels, spread nearly all over the upper and lower terraces. These unhappily now serve to denote present waste, and also the high development of productive industry in these regions in former times, together with the inducements thereto, which the soil and climate offer, in combination with a well directed artificial irrigation, which the cultivators themselves appear to understand, much better than theoretical engineers, whose tendencies are too one-sided, too much bent upon the works themselves, and too little identified with the varying incidents that must be met by the cultivator himself from day to day. Such appears to be the explanation of failures that have too often followed great irrigation works by professional Europeans in India, and the reflection suggested by such examples as this great irrigated plain, is, that native talent and administration under the oversight of supreme European governments, is the proper


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/173

157 THE PLAIN OF BEISAN. 157

combination to secure, in the first place, protection for life and property ; and in the second place, the highest results for local industry. Looking at the grave necessity for good administration in these long-oppressed regions, and the prospect of an early application of European instrumentality for their restoration to wealth and prosperity, that shall benefit, not these regions alone, but all the hives of manufac- turing industry elsewhere ; it does not seem out of place to seize upon such an occasion as this to strike a note that may, by the providence of the Almighty, reach home in the right direction.

The water derived from the Nahr Jalud, and from numerous fountains and brooks that descend from the hills, feeds the irrigation still partially in use, as well as the marshy tracts that denote the extent of the waste enforced by Arab spoliation and Turkish oppression. From these sources several streams pass from the upper to the lower terrace, and from the latter to the Jordan in the Zor. As many as six permanent streams thus find their way to the Jordan, between Nahr Jalud and Wady Maleh. The streams descending from Jebel Fuku'a, have little room for development on the short slopes ; but where the hills encroach on the southern part of the plain, the Wady Shubash and the Wady el Khashneh, drain more important valleys. The Shubash indeed rises on the western side of Jebel Fuku'a, and cuts through the range. The Khashneh rises in Eas Ibsik (altitude 2,404 feet), and skirts the Roman road to Beisan and Nablus.

All over the upper and lower terraces of the great plain, numerous tells or mounds are distributed; they still bear distinctive names, and are the sites of former habitations, scenes of domestic happiness, and abundant wealth, that may be restored almost as rapidly as they were obliterated, when once the civilization and power of the West becomes con- scious of the connection between Oriental prosperity and that of its own manufacturing populations.

These tells probably mark the substantial and lordly centres of villages, the latter more or less extensive, and


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/174

158 158 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

readily levelled with the ground. They denote the populous character of the region, when a strong government restrained the plundering Ishmaelite, and protected instead of robbed the people. The tells are more indicative of a large popula- tion than the remains of such a " splendid " and " noble " city as Beisan, when it was either Jewish L Beth Shan, or heathen Scythopolis, with its dominating citadel, temples, hippo- drome, theatre, baths, monuments, and bridge.*

At the southern end of the plain, are the ruins near 'Ain es Sakut, which Mons. Guerin identifies with Succoth of 1 Kings vii, 46, and 2 Chron. iv, 17. But he carefully distinguishes this site from the Succoth of Jacob in Genesis xxxiii, 17, and of Gideon, Judges viii, which is identified with the town of that name, given to Gad, on the east of Jordan, Josh, xiii, 27.f

This eastern Succoth is called Tarela, or Tarala, in the Jerusalem Talmud. J Jacob sojourned there on his way from Haran in Syria to Shalem of Shechem, passing the Eiver Jabbok. Gen. xxii, xxiii. Where the Jabbok emerges from Mount Gilead on to the plain of the Ghor, here broad and ample, the mound of Deir Ula, Darala or Tarala, commands the plain. Its discovery is ascribed by Lieutenant Conder to the Kev. Selah Merrill. But the site was mapped by Lieu- tenant Warren, and catalogued in his report of October 19th, 1868, which was published in the papers of the Fund at the time. It was inserted in the map of the Holy Land, in Dr. Smith's Ancient Atlas, from Lieutenant Warren's sketch.

At the foot of Mount Gilboa, and three miles south-west of Beisan, is the ruin called Khurbet el Mujedda, which has been adopted by Lieutenant Conder, as the site of Megiddo, in preference to the position on the Mukutt'a, near Lejjun.|| Besides the objection to this proposition, derived from the

 * Kobinson, iii, 329-332. Guerin, " Samarie," i, 285-298.

t Guerin, " Samarie," i, 269.

J Neubauer, " Geographic du Talmud," 248.

Conder's " Handbook to the Bible," 253.

ii " Tent Work," i, 128, ii, 68.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/175

159 THE PLAIN OF BEISAN. 159

separation of the site from the River Kishon, and the town of T'anak, there is the account of the flight from Jezreel, of Ahaziah, King of Judah (2 Kings ix, 27), which it seems impossible to reconcile with such a position for Megiddo. Ahaziah fled by way of the garden house (Beth-hag-Gan or Bethgan), which Dr. Grove, Mons. Guerin, Dr. Tristram, and Dr. Stanley, identify with Engannim, the modern Jenin. Dr. Stanley observes that " the garden-like character of the spot is still preserved."* The king was smitten at Maaleh Gur, " the going up to Gur," near Ibleam, and he fled to Megiddo, where he died. It is difficult to conceive how this narrative can be reconciled with a Megiddo in the Plain of Bethshean ; for it must be remembered that Jehu, the pursuer of Ahaziah, made his furious advance upon Jezreel, through that plain ; and it seems highly improbable that the flying monarch would have rushed towards his opponent, instead of from him. This difficulty alone seems insurmountable. But there is also Engannim or Bethgan, and the other points in the story, to be sought for somewhere in the Valley of Jezreel ; but nothing except Mujedda, suitable for the purpose, has yet been discovered in that direction.

The Samaritan Gorge of the Jordan.

The broad Plain of Beisan is succeeded by a gorge or narrow valley, extending about 11 miles between Wady Maleh, and Wady Abu Sidreh, the latter being the lower course of Wady el Bukei'a. This is the narrowest part of the Lower Jordan, and according to Lieutenant Warren it contracts to not more than half a mile in width. " For six miles the plain is nearly lost." Guerin repeatedly calls it " tres e'troite." According to Conder it is two to three miles wide.

The summits of the hills which enclose the Ghor on the west, rise above the Jordan, to heights between 1,100 to 1,840 feet, their heights above the sea being about 1,000 feet less.

This range is the eastern boundary of the Wady Maleh

 * " Sinai and Pal.," 349, note.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/176

160 160 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

basin, which drains the hills that form the western side of the gorge. But the principal affluents of the Wady Maleh are derived from the range that bounds the basin on the south-west, and constitutes its main slope or watershed. One of these affluents runs for seven miles northward, along the eastern side of the basin to join the Jordan, which descends on the eastern side of the same range, in a direction exactly opposite.

This south-western range seems to be the chief factor in the group of hills that forms the western side of the Sama- ritan Gorge. It was observed, heretofore, that the range forming the axis of the hills on the western side of the Galilean Gorge of the Jordan, is in continuity with the mountain range that divides Upper and Lower Galilee, and extends to the Plain of Acre. In like manner the south- western range of the Maleh basin, forming the main element of the hills on the west of the Samuritan Gorge, exhibits a remarkable alignment with Mount Carmel, and its continuation along the south-west of the Plain of Esdraelon. This range is also the first of a series of ranges parallel to it, which will be noticed hereafter.

The foot of the hills on the west of the gorge, often descends to the Ghor in precipitous rocks, and advances occasionally to the Zor, the track being carried sometimes along the very foot of the hills or over the slope of the projected spur, or even down into indents of the Zor. For the Zor itself very much indents the Ghor, penetrating it along the course of the wadys, which descend in ravines across the Ghor from the hill-side. The Zor also varies in width on the western side (of which alone the survey takes cognizance), independ- ently of the indents before-mentioned. It exceeds a mile at Wady Marma Fiad on the north, and also at Wady Abu Sidreh on the south, where it reaches up to the hills ; and it is quite half a-mile broad for nearly two miles, on the south of Wady Umm ed Deraj ez Zakkum. Ten fords across the Jordan, are noted and named in the new Survey within this narrow tract.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/177

161 THE SAMARITAN GORGE.

161

In the reconnaissance map and report of this gorge made by Lieutenant Warren, K.E., in October, 1868, various names of wadys occur, which would probably supply those which are omitted in the new map. Mons. Guerin also contributes some names and objects here, as elsewhere, that do not appear on the map.* The extension of the Survey to the east of the Jordan, will afford an opportunity of reconciling or explaining these discrepancies upon further inquiry on the spot.

A COMPARATIVE TABLE OF NAMES FEOM WARREN, GUERIN, AND CONDER, BETWEEN W. MALEH AND W. ABU SIDREH.

FKOM WARREN'S SKETCH,

1868.

W. Malih. W. Um Karuby. W. el em Dahideh. W. Shiyeh. W. Swaida. W. Saujeh (S'aidiyeh). W. Abu Serad (Jerad). W. Belgod. W. Abu Haschish. W. Ghor. W. Abu Sidra.

FROM GUERIN.

0. el Maleh.

O. Mar my Faiadh.

0. Rhazal.

0. es-Seder.

Sath er Rhoula (cave).

Kh. el Bridje.

0. es Seka'ah.

Haouch ez Zakkoum.

O. en Nekeb.

Tell es Saidieh.

O. Asberra.

0. Abu Sehban.

O. Kefr Anjda.

0. ez Zarha.

Unautre Oued.

O. el E'urkan.

Siret el Maazeb.

Kh. es Sireh.

0. Abou Sedra.

FROM CONDER'S SURVEY.

Wady el M&leh (esh Sherar).

Marma Fiad.

Thogret el Kabur.

Wady Fass el Jemel (Habs Katurj).

Shaib.

Umm ed Deraj ez Zak-

kum.

Un-named stream.

Sadet et Taleh.

Wady Jurat el Katufi.

Three ruined sites.

Arak Abu el Hashish (rocky

eminence above unnamed

stream). Wady Abu Loz. Sidd el Belkawy. See Belgod

above, in Warren. Tombs, cisterns, and Kh. el

Karur. Tell and Wady Abu Sidreh.

The Ghdr between the Gorge and the Dead Sea, in 2 parts.

South of Wady Abu Sidreh, where the Samaritan Gorge is considered to terminate, the Ghor begins to widen by successive accretions, and attains a breadth of five miles west of the Jordan, where the Wady el Humr crosses the plain, on the north of Khurbet Fusail, the ancient Phasaelis. This width continues undiminished up to the Dead Sea : but in other respects the Ghor exhibits a remarkable variety of features which makes it desirable to divide the plain on the south of the Samaritan Gorge, into two parts, the separation of which is found along the southern waterparting of Wady el 'Aujah Basin. The northern part may be called the Plain of Phasaelis, after the Herodian city, the ruins of which remain in its midst. The southern part is the famous Plain of Jericho.

 * Guerin, "Samarie," i, 264-268.


text:
Page:An Introduction to the Survey of Western Palestine.djvu/178

162 162 THE PLAINS OF THE JORDAN.

1. Tlie Plain of Phasaelis,

The Wady Abu Sidreh was chosen to define the southern limit of the Samaritan Gorge, because it is a line that lies distinct upon the ground, and is equally clear upon the map. But the waterparting on the north of this wady should be regarded as the actual limit, although it may not be so easy to trace. The preference for the waterparting is due to natural features connected with the widening of this part of the Ghor. These occur in the form of a series of parallel valleys, commencing on the south of the range that bounds the Maleh Basin on the south-west, and which has been shown to have a remarkable influence on that basin, and also on the Samaritan Gorge. These valleys are (1) the Wady el Bukei'a. (2) the Wady Far'ah, and (3) the Wady el Ifjim, Lakaska, or el Humr. They run in parallel courses through the hills into the Ghor, and, with a singular exception, enlarge the Ghor by the deep bays which run up from it into the hills, and form the mouths of these valleys.

The Wady Sidreh is the outlet of the first of the series, the Wady el Bukei'a, which runs at the base of the range that bounds the Maleh Basin on the south-west. The Wady el Bukei'a is, however, somewhat exceptional at both ends. At its head the Bukei'a is overlapped by the broad expansion of the sources of the next parallel valley which succeeds it on the south, the noted Wady Far'ah, the great highway be- tween Nablus and Trans-Jordan. At its outlet the Bukei'a takes a very curious and singular course ; for instead of gradually expanding into the wide plain, and so contributing to the surface of the Ghor, it contracts into a narrow, deep, and rocky chasm, which appears at first to be completely blocked at its lower end, while it really makes an abrupt and short bend nearly at right angles to its former south-westerly and straight course, and then winds about northward, north- east, and finally east, till it emerges from the hills to descend at once into the Zor, which here interrupts the Ghor altogether.

So little is there any obvious connection between the