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209 THE NAZARETH RANGE. 209

plateau to Damieh is no doubt rapid, for the waterparting at the head of the wady is probably more than 700 feet above the sea, while at the foot of Damieh, the wady must be at least 100 feet below the sea.

At its southern end the range is extended from the cliffs of el Kulah (alt. 1,179 feet) due south towards the Wady el Bireh ; but when it reaches about a mile from the wady, the range turns to the south-east and descends to the Ghor, filling the angle between the Wady el Bireh and the Ghor.

Besides the Wady el Mady, which flows along its western edge, the Plateau of Sh'arah is watered by four perennial streams which rise near the line of cliffs. Three flowing south- ward to join Wady esh Sherrar, are named Wady Sh'arah, Wady Shomer, and Kaud Tuffah. The fourth rises near Sirin and runs due west to join the Tuffah near its outlet.

Several villages are distributed over the plateau. Along the summit of the range are Kefr Sabt (alt. 650 feet), Sarona (alt. 892 feet), el Hadetheh (alt. 735 feet), and Sirin (alt. 570 feet). Towards the centre are Kefr Kama (alt. 650 feet), on a branch of Wady Sh'arah; Madher (alt. 544 feet) between Wady Sh'arah and Wady Shomer; and Meshah (alt. 320 feet) about a mile from the mouth of Wady el Mady.

From the heights of Mount Tabor and Jebel es Sih, which rise above 1,800 feet, the Plateau of Sh'arah is the first drop in the descent towards the Sea of Galilee, its mean altitude being about 600 feet. The second drop in the same direction, is the Plain of Ahma, which has been shown to be about 300 feet below the sea level in the centre of the plain. The surface of the Sea of Galilee itself is depressed 628 feet ; and its greatest depth was reported by Lieutenant Lynch of the United States Navy to be 160 feet lower.

The higher hills on the west of the plateau, and the range which divides the Plain of Ahma from the Sea of Galilee, appear to be of limestone) which also seems to underlie the intermediate surface of the plateau and the plain. The line of interrupted cliffs between the plain and plateau is said to be basaltic, and lava currents with fragments of lava and pumice


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210 210 THE MOUNTAINS OF LOWER GALILEE.

cover the whole region between Mount Tabor and the Galilean Sea. But the exactitude of the Survey makes it usually very difficult to apply the geological notes of former observers to it ; as- their representations of the ground seldom embrace the details which are now delineated, and their allusions are too general for precise use. Dr. Tristram's geological account of this part is remarkably distinct, but it would be rather presumptuous to attempt to colour the one- inch survey from that or any other existing description.* Professor Geikie's recent theory of the emission of lava from dykes as well as craters, could probably be studied under favourable circumstances around the Sea of Galilee.

The Jebel Duhy Range.

The southernmost group of the Hills of Lower Galilee is an irregular quadrilateral, which would be wholly confined to the basin of the Jordan, but for the north-western slope of Jebel Duhy or Little Hermon, which is within the basin of the Mukutt'a. The entire group has two faces towards the north, of which one is slightly inclined to the north-west, and has its base in the great arm of the Plain of Esdraelon, that stretches up between Jebel Duhy and Mount Tabor, as far as the end of the plain, and the head of the gorge of Wady el Bireh. The other northerly face is slightly inclined to the north-east, and descends in a deep valley to the Wady el Bireh. The third face is towards the Jordan and drops steeply to the Ghor of Jordan between Wady el Bireh and Nahr el Jalud. The fourth face inclines south-westward along the wide, sloping vale of Wady el Jalud or the Valley of Jezreel, between Beisan and Jebel Duhy. The length of the mountain on this line is about 15 miles. Its greatest breadth is about seven miles.

This block is distinctly divided into three parts. (1) The triangular or trihedral mass of Jebel Duhy occupies the western extremity and rises to the height of 1,690 feet. Its

188.
 * Tristram's " Land of Israel," 422. Lartet, " Exploration Geologique,"

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211 JEBEL DUHY RANGE. 211

northern slope contributes partly to the Mukutt'a, but chiefly to Wady el Bireh. The waterparting between the Mediter- ranean and Jordan watersheds, ascends to the summit of the mountain from its northern base, passing on the east of the village of Nein (where Our Lord restored the widow's son to life), and it descends westward by the main ridge to the Plain of Esdraelon and the village of el 'Afuleh. This village must be distinguished from its neighbour on the east called el Fuleh, as the latter is within the basin of Nahr Jalud, although both may have been within the compass of the towns that formerly stood here. Also on the northern side of the mountain are the miserable caves and huts of the village of Endor, where the wretched old women pour fanatical curses on passing Europeans, reminding them of Saul's visit there to the ancient sorceress.

Between Nain and Endor is a prominent hill with two summits named Tell el 'Ajjul, formed of basaltic rocks, which at a distance look like ruins.* Dr. Tristram observed a basaltic or trap dyke at the south-western base of the mountain, and he attributes the elevation of the mountain to it, during the period when the basalt flowed over these and other parts of Galilee.f

East of Endor, a depression in the upland containing the village of Tumrah (alt. 680 feet) cuts off the ridge of Mount Duhy from the lower range on the east ; and a spur sloping southward from Tumrah to Wady es Sidr, a branch of Nahr Jalud, combines with that wady to complete the eastern base of Jebel ed Duhy. The eastern slope is remarkable for an antique necropolis at Kh. Maluf.*

The south-western slope is drained by several branches into Wady el Hufiyir and Wady el Asmar, at the head of Nahr Jalud. Its base is spread out between Kh. Tub'aun, on the north of Ain Jalud and el 'Afuleh on the main water- parting between the Mediterranean and Jordan. The latter place has been identified by Mons. Guerin with Aphek,J on

J 1 Sam. xxviii, 4; xxix, 1 ; xxxi, 1.
 * Guerin, " Galilee " I, ch. vii, viii. f Tristram's " Land of Israel," 129.


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212 212 THE MOUNTAINS OF LOWER GALILEE.

the authority of the monk Buchardus. Aphek means a " stronghold " or " strength," and here has probably always been some indications of a fortified post. The Crusaders' castle of Faba is now in, ruins at Fuleh. About the midst of this slope is Solam (alt. 445 feet) the Shunem of the Old Testament. All three places are historical. At Shunem* the Philistines collected their forces, while Saul pitched in Mount Gilboa. On the day of battle, the Philistines were drawn up on the plain at Aphek (el Afuleh) and the army of Saul took ground by a fountain in Jezreel, not necessarily Ain Jalud, and probably close to the Plain of Esdraelon. The distance between the two headquarters is four miles ; and the battle would probably have been joined about midway or nearer Gilboa. On the defeat of the Israelites they fled for refuge to Mount Gilboa : and Saul with his sons were perhaps overtaken towards Beth Shan (Beisan) ; for on the walls of that city their bodies were exposed by the Philistines, and soon valiantly removed by the men of Jabesh, a neighbouring city across the Jordan*

From Shunem the beautiful Abishag was brought to nurse the aged David. It was also the scene of Elisha's repeated gratitude for the hospitality of a " great woman " who resided there.

In later times each end of this side of the mountain has been the scene of military events. At Tub'aun (Tubania) was the Crusaders' camp in 1183, when Saladin was posted on the opposite side of the valley at 'Ain Jalud, and suddenly decamped. Between Fuleh and 'Afuleh on the 16th April, 1709, Kleber with about 1,500 men resisted an overwhelming Syrian force of 25,000. The French general maintained his ground during six hours from daylight to midday, when Bonaparte brought up a reinforcement of 600 men from Acre, and so manoeuvred them that the enemy became alarmed, and Kleber assuming the offensive, stormed the village. The enemy then fled in great disorder, pursued by Murat, and

 * 1 Sam. xxviii, 4 ; xxix, 1 ; xxxi, 1.


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213 JEBEL DUHY RANGE. 213

hundreds were drowned in a swollen stream, thus repeating an incident of Sisera's defeat.

A plateau on the east of Jebel Duhy embraces the remainder of this upland group. It is intersected almost diagonally by a winding wady named Wady Dabu and Wady Yebla after ruined sites on its banks. The wady rises on the north- west at Dabu near Tumrah, and it falls to the south-east where the wady emerges as Wady el 'Esh-sheh from the lofty banks of the plateau on to the Ghor. (2.) The northern part of the plateau is a slightly winding range, extending between Tumrah and the very prominent summit of Kaukab el Hawa, crowned by the vast remains of the Crusaders' great Castle of Belvoir. The general course of the range is parallel with the Wady el Bireh at its base, but while the wady descends to 900 feet below the sea level, the range rises gradually to 975 feet above the same datum line. The fall from the one to the other towards the east, or from the eastern wall of the fortress to the Ghor at its foot, is quite abrupt, the edge of the low plain being within the horizontal distance of a mile from the overhanging summit. The fall to Wady Bireh on the north, is broken by a terrace on which is the village of el Bireh (alt. 546 feet), the bottom of the great gorge being about 1,000 feet lower. The terrace widens out towards Denna and is terminated by a bend of the range towards the same place, from which a watercourse descends by Wady Hammud to Wady Bireh. Between Wady Hammud and the Plain of Esdraelon, the northern range of this group of hills descends to Wady Bireh, a broad and open down. Towards the south and south-west the fall varies. From Kaukab el Hawa there is a direct drop to the Wady el 'Esh-sheh, and its continuation westward as Wady Kharrar. (3.) This valley forms the first step, terrace or raised trough, above the Ghor and the Valley of Jezreel. On the outer edge of the trough is Murussus (alt. 323 feet). Denudation has reduced the trough within this edge to an altitude of 10 feet only at Zebu. This, however, represents a material difference between the direct ascent to

J


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214 214 THE MOUNTAINS OF LOWER GALILEE.

Kaukab el Hawa on this side and on the side of the Ghor. Further to the west the descent from the range takes place through the two parallel terraces or troughs, the uppermost being Wady Dabu, and the next lower being Wady Yebla and Wady el Hokttyeh, below which succeeds the third parallel still lower, in Wady Kharrar and 'Esh-sheh. The lowest of this parallel series is Nahr Jalud. Beyond the Wady el Hoktiyeh, that line of valley is prolonged westward, over a saddle, to branches of Wady es Sidr, leading up to Kh.

As a conclusion to this introduction to the new Survey of Lower Galilee, a general view of its river basins, Lowlands, and Uplands, may be taken. Two great basins divide its Mediterranean watershed, the Nahr N'amein and the Mukutt'a. Six tributary basins drain the Jordan slope, namely, Wady Eubudiyeh, Wady el Hamam, Wady Abu el 'Amis, Wady Eejjas, Wady el Bireh, and Wady el 'Esh-sheh, besides Wady 'Amud and the Nahr Jalud on the northern and southern borders. The lowlands of the Mediterranean slope are all embraced in the great plains of Acre and Esdraelon with the offsets of the latter including Buttauf and Toran. On the side of the Jordan, is the Ghuweir or Plain of Genessaret, the narrow strand of Tiberias, and the Ghor of the Jordan. The uplands are formed of four symmetrical ranges, of which the summits in particular are curvilinear and parallel. These are the Northern or Shaghur, the Toran, the Nazareth, and the Jebel Duhy Eanges. The confronted slopes between these ranges, sometimes combine to form upland plains, like the Plain of Rameh, the Plain of Arrabeh, the Plain of 'Ahma, the Plateau of Sh'arah, and the Plateau of the 'Esh-sheh. Beautiful woodlands deck the scenery of the south-western slopes. Broad and open downs, bare and monotonous, even when rocky, meet the wearied eye on the south-east. In the north-east, Dr. Thomson describes the scenery between the Plain of Rameh and the head of Wady er Rubudiyeh as " exquisitely beautiful."


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215 NEW SURVEY OF GALILEE, SAMARIA, AND JUD^A. 215

THE HIGHLANDS OF SAMARIA AND JUD.&A.

South of the line formed by the Elvers Mukutt'a and Jalud, no recognised features have hitherto served the purpose of dividing distinctly the long stretch of highland between Mount Carmel and Beersheba. Still on approaching the subject, it is only reasonable to expect that in the course of a hundred miles, there must be variations that admit of being conveniently grouped, and that should not be over- looked in a geographical description. But before the present survey, the best accounts of the country were too inadequate to enable any attempt of the kind to be carried out on the lines that will be now adopted. It was the great aim of Dr. Eobinson's most able researches, " to collect materials for the preparation of a systematic work on the physical and historical geography of the Holy Land."* As much as it was possible for his genius to accomplish with the data at his command, has been fortunately preserved in the "Physical Geography of the Holy Land," made known in 1865 through Mr. Murray, by the tender hand on whom the duty devolved after the author's lamented death. This fragment will always be regarded by students with the attention and interest due to the last work of the most successful of all previous contri- butors to the geography of Palestine. Yet Dr. Eobinson had to be content with little more than a general view of the subject, comprehending in one sweeping glance the whole region from Esdraelon to Hebron ; and his details are confined to isolated accounts of the particular mountains mentioned in Scripture. The Survey of the Palestine Exploration Fund no longer allows the geographer to indulge in such a method. Every important feature is now exposed in its length, breadth, and height ; and thus it has become quite practicable to discern certain natural groups and divisions that serve to bring to light the distinctive characteristics of the different parts of the country, and facilitate intelligible description and con- venient reference.

 * " Bib. Kes." iii, Preface.

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216 216 THE HIGHLANDS OF SAMARIA AND JUD.EA.

Five of such divisions have been adopted on the present occasion. The first has the Mukutt'a and Jalud Eivers on the north, and the Wadys Shair and El Humr on the south. The second division succeeds, and has on its southern boundary Wady Balut. and Wady el 'Aujah. The third has for its southern boundary Wady Alallah, Wady Aly, Wady Ismaen, Sikreh and Werd, Wady el War and el Meshash. The fourth and fifth are divided between the Shephelah on the west, and the mountains of Judah on the east. The grounds of these divisions will be discussed in the following explana- tion of their details.

The Northern Samaritan Hills.

The north-eastern base of the Samaritan Hills, from the sea at the foot of Mount Carmel to the Jordan, is generally defined with precision by the abrupt termination of the slope in the continuous lowland formed by the plain of Esdraelon or Merj Ibn Amir, the Valley of Jezreel or Wata el Jalud, and the Plain of Beisan. But for the considerable projection of Mount Gilboa to the north, the whole of this face would fall nearly in the same oblique line, running from north-west to south-east. Mount Carmel is slightly advanced beyond the central part of the range, and the foot of the hills on the south of the Plain of Beisan falls almost in the same line as the foot of Mount Carmel. Mount Gilboa projects between the Plains of Beisan and Esdraelon, along the line of the Mediterranean and Jordan waterparting, and thus brings prominently forward, the main axial division between the eastern and the western watersheds. It will be noticed that the western base of Mount Gilboa is nearly parallel with the western base of Mount Carmel ; but the comparison leads to 110 inference. It may, however, be assumed that the recess between the two mountains is due to denudation of the softer chalky rocks which lie between those hard limestone masses, and which probably extended up to the line of the Mukutt'a Biver. Such an extension is still found running out to the river at Ludd, where the junction takes place of the head-


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217 THE NORTHEKN SAMAKITAN HILLS. 217

waters of the Mukutt'a coming from the north-east and south- east. If the southern part of the Plain of Beisan has under- gone a similar denudation, then the obliquity of the ancient base line would have been much less, and the protrusion of Mount Gilboa would not have existed.

The western face of these hills descends to the Plain of Sharon from Cape Carmel southward. The eastern face descends to the Ghor of the Jordan. There are notable differences between the northern and southern parts of the Samaritan Hills, and the natural features enable a distinct dividing line to be drawn between them.

One extremity of this line is suggested by the conditions of the eastern slope. On the south of the Plain of Beisan, the hills advance to the banks of the Jordan, and soon exhibit a parallel structure in successive ridges and valleys, descending south-eastward to the Jordan from the main waterparting. The series terminates on the south in Wady el Ifjim, called Wady el Kerad towards its source on the edge of the Plain of Salim, and Wady el Humr in crossing the Ghor. It should be remembered that the limits of mountains and hills, are to be found in plains or watercourses. Summits or ridges are not available for the purpose, as they cannot be naturally separated from their slopes.

On the north of Wady el Ifjim, the features of the ground are comparatively expanded and developed. On the south they are as remarkably contracted and reduced to small propor- tions. The northern part will be described at once. The southern part will follow in due course. It will then be seen that the Wady el Ifjim constitutes a dividing line between sections of country strongly contrasted with each other.

In the northern section, the summit of the Jordan slope is thrown back westward, as much as six to ten miles ; and in a broad sweep it is also advanced eastward up to the Jordan in its central part ; while it recedes from the river gradually towards the north and south. The slope is divided between four parallel ridges and their offsets. The most northerly ridge culminates


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218 218 THE NORTHERN SAMARITAN HILLS.

in Ras el Bedd (alt. 1,760 feet) ; the next is capped by Ras Jadir (alt. 2,326 feet) ; the third rises to Jebel Tammun (alt. 1,960 feet) ; and the fourth predominates in Jebel el Kebir (alt. 2,610 feet). To these must be added the range between the Maleh Basin and the Jordan, which rises in Ras Umm Zokah to 840 feet above the sea, or 1,930 feet above the Jordan,

The interior valleys of this part of the northern section are included in the basins of Wady el Maleh, Wady el Bukei'a, and Wady Far'ah. The exterior are found on the slopes towards the Plain of Beisan, the Jordan, and the Wady el If jim.

The 'prolongation westward of the line of the If jim and Kerad, is distinctly found at the base of the same ridge, in the mid-channel of the Plain of Salim ; and further west, in the watercourse which joins it through Wady esh Shejur, from the great gap between the mountains of Ebal and Gerizim, in which the city of Nablus is situated. Westward of Nablus, the line is taken up and carried to the Plain of Sharon by the Wady esh Shair, or Zeimer, which lies at the southern base of a mountain range on the north, that culminates in a summit dedicated to Sheikh Beiazid (alt. 2,375 feet). The Wady esh Shair is continued to the sea as Nahr Iskanderuneh, and throughout defines the limit of features as distinct of their kind as those on the eastern slope. To trace these in order, it is necessary to recur to the description of the eastern slope, and connect it with the northern and central parts of the section.

The northernmost of the ranges on the eastern slope, culminating in Ras el Bedd, joins the main waterparting at Ras Ibzik (alt. 2,404 feet). Its slope to the Plain of Beisan is a portion of the northern escarpment of the Samaritan Plateau. From Ras Ibzik, the summit of the scarp is continued along the main waterparting to Tannin (alt. 1,460 feet). From Tannin to Mount Carmel, the same line of summit is found along the south-western waterparting of the Mukutt'a Basin.


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219 MOUNT GILBOA. 219

Mount Gilboa or Jebel Fukd'a.

From Tannin and Eas Ibzik respectively, two ranges advance from the Samaritan Plateau in northerly and convex gent directions ; and they unite at Jebel Abu Madwar (alt. 1,648 feet). These embrace the southern part of Mount Gilboa, and form the separate summits of its south-eastern and south-western slopes. The village of Jelkamus (alt. 1,308 feet) is on the western range. From Jebel Abu Madwar the mountain is prolonged as a single range north- ward to Sheikh Barkan (alt. 1,698 feet). Then it takes a west-north-west course with a slight curve to its western end, where it divides into three spurs, which descend to the plain at Zerin on the north, at Sundela on the south, and at an intermediate point on the road between those places. Between Sheik Burkan and Jebel Abu Madwar, a broad and undulating branch is thrown off, which extends somewhat further west than the main range. It is occupied by the villages of Mukeibileh (alt. 313 feet), Jelameh (alt. 352 feet), Arraneh, Deir Ghuzaleh (alt. 738 feet), and Fuku'a (alt. 1,502 feet). The last is the place from whence the local name of the mountain (Jebel Fuku'a) is now derived. A spur of less length descends from Jebel Abu Madwar to Beit Kad (alt. 687 feet).

The slope of Mount Gilboa towards the Valley of Jezreel and the Plain of Beisan, is much shorter than its western side, it is indeed quite abrupt, and with little variation, except at Wady el Judid, and Nuris, near Zerin.

Between the two ranges of Mount Gilboa, which diverge southwards from Jebel Abu Madwar, there is a distinct series of elevated valleys, sometimes on one side of the main water- parting, sometimes on the other, and occasionally on both sides. Such valleys running laterally to the main water- parting range, are not confined to this part, for they will be found with unlimited variations of form and development, and with scarcely any interruption, as far southward as the Survey extends. Their importance in many cases, in facili-


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220 220 THE NORTHERN SAMARITAN HILLS.

tating communication between north and south cannot be overrated.

The first in the series is the Valley of Jelbon (alt. 1,062 feet) which measured between the summit of Jebel Abu Madwar and the saddle which terminates it on the south, is three miles in length. It lies on the western side of the main waterparting, and its drainage passes off through a gorge in the western range, and reaches the Plain of Esdraelon as Wady en Nust This valley is divided from the next on the south by the transposition of the main water- parting to the western side of the next valley. The elevation of the valleys makes the separation slight, and their connec- tion is maintained by a road across the low saddle that divides their waters.

The second valley is of greater extent, more curious in its structure, and divided into two distinct parts with a village in each. The main waterparting, in crossing from east to west, forms its northern boundary, and divides it from the Vale of Jelbon (Gilboa). Continuing to the south-west as far as Tannin, the parting bounds the valley in that direction, and has the village of Jelkamus (alt. 1,308 feet) on its summit. At Tannin, the main waterparting bends sharply to the south-east, as far as Has Ibzik, where it is again on the same line that it described on the east of Jelbon. The Jelbon range, though it ceases to be the waterparting, is not lost, for it passes straightway to E-as Ibzik, and forms the eastern enclosure of the elevated valley under notice, as well as the summit of the slope that descends from it to the Plain of Beisan.

The interior of the second valley forms two divisions so distinct that they must bear separate names derived from their respective villages, El Mughair on the north, and Eaba pn the south. The drainage of the northern part originates on the eastern range, and runs westward along the northern waterparting, till that feature bends to the south-west, and causes the drainage to take the same direction, passing the village of El Mughair (alt. 1,072 feet). The drainage of the


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221 THE NORTHERN SAMARITAN HILLS. 221

southern part also proceeds from the eastern range, near the village of Eaba (alt. 1,590 feet), and runs in two parallel channels also westerly, and along the foot of the waterparting range, where it extends between Eas Ibzik and Tannin. The western boundary which turned the Mughair Wady to the south-west, diverts the Eaba Wady after the junction of its parallel streams, to the north-east, that is in the same line as the Mughair Wady, though they proceed from opposite directions. The streams are thus brought to a junction, and acquire the name of Wady Shubash, which intersecting the eastern range in a deep gorge, descends rapidly to the Plain of Beisan on an easterly course.

The next elevated lateral valley on the south of Eaba, and east of the main waterparting, extends from Eas Ibzik to Tubas (alt. 1,227 feet), and is drained by streams running in the same line, but from opposite directions, at the western extremity of the Maleh Basin. From Tubas, the succession is maintained by the wide-spreading heads of Wady Farah, which repeats the eccentric features of the Mughair-Eaba Valley, on a scale three times greater, and extends the lateral communication along the eastern side of the main water- parting from Tubas to the Plain of Mukhnah, a distance of 12 miles. From the last named point, the series of these elevated plateaus will be taken up again in due course.

If nothing else served to fix the southern boundary of this section towards the west, the drainage proceeding from the northern edge of the plateau in this direction, would answer the purpose. It belongs to the basin of the Nahr el Mefjir, which has its southern waterparting along the Beiazid Eange. As the southern base of the Beiazid Eange, the Wady Shair becomes the boundary of this part of the section, and thus its continuity with the eastern part of the base-line, is shown to be not so much a motive as a coincidence.

When Wady Shair or Zeimer reaches the foot of the hills, the base line of the highlands is continued northward along the Plain of Sharon to Gape Carmel. But regarding the low eminences in the plain as related to the highland, it becomes


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222 222 THE NORTHERN SAMARITAN HILLS.

necessary to prolong the boundary of the section across the plain along Wady Shair, to its junction with the Nahr Iskanderuneh, and to the outfall of the latter into the sea, The coast line then forms the boundary of this enlargement.

The whole of the Western Plateau of the Northern Samaritan Hills from the Beiazid Eange to Cape Carmel, may be thus divided according to its natural features :

(1). Mount Carmel, having its southern base in Wady el Mihl and Wady el Matabin, called lower down Wady Henu. This mountain with its parallel ranges has been so fully described in connection with its watercourses, as to require no further notice. See pages 26 to 30.

(2). The lower tract of Belad er Euhah, with the corre- sponding slope to the Mukutt'a. This may be conveniently limited on the south by Wady 'Arah, the north-western branch of Nahr el Mefjir, descending westward from Umm el Fahm, and eastward by the wady which skirts Musmus, and the high road in that direction. This tract descends on the west, partly to the narrow Plain of Tanturah, and partly to the broader Plain of Sharon. The descent is abrupt to the narrow plain, and forms the bold headland of el Kashm. It is chiefly in the basins of Nahr ed Dufleh and Nahr ez Zerka. See pages 30, 31.

(3). The wooded heights culminating in Sheikh Iskander (alt. 1,690 feet), embracing the rugged hills of Umm el Khataf, and extending southward to the Wady of Burkin, the Plain of 'Arrabeh, and Wady el 'Asl. These hills are the Northern Heights of the Mefjir Basin. See page 34.

(4). The Eastern Plains of the Mefjir Basin, including the Plain of 'Arrabeh or Dothan, the plateau of the Upper Selhab ; the Merj el Ghuruk, and the Plain of Fendakumieh.

(5). The Western Heights of the Mefjir Basin, culminating in Batn en Nury (alt. 1,660 feet).

(6). The Southern Heights or the Beiazid Range and Jebel Eslamiyeh, the Mount Ebal of Scripture.

For a description of these six divisions in more detail, reference may be made to the account of the basins which


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223 THE NORTHERN SAMARITAN HILLS. 223

contain them. See pages 30 to 34. But it may be well, in addition, to point to the connection of the Plain of Esdraelon, the Eastern Plains of the Mefjir Basin, and the uplands of the Jordan Slope from the Plain of Salim to the Plain of Beisan. These form an unbroken succession of pastoral plains and downs.

The following routes across the northern part of the Samaritan Hills also claim attention. Lateral valleys along the summit of the Jordan slope are traversed by the ancient highway between Nablus, Beisan, and the Sea of Galilee. The road from Nablus to Jenin and Nazareth, skirts the Plain of Fendakumieh, and the Merj el Ghuruk, and passing through Kubatieh, it has the plateau of the Upper Selhab on the right, and the Plain of 'Arrabeh or Dothan on the left. From the north-eastern edge of the Plain of 'Arrabeh, there is but a short descent of less than a mile, to the Plain of Esdraelon, by way of Burkin. The descent from the Plain of 'Arrabeh to the Plain of Sharon is about nine miles in length, and the road takes a hilly track by Fer&sin (alt. 787 feet) and Kuffin (alt. 460 feet). The upland between the Plains of Esdraelon and Sharon is crossed by a highway which leaves Kerkur on the west, and ascends the Wady 'Arab, for about four miles from the foot of the hills, when it forks, sending two branches to the Plain of Esdraelon, through Musmus to Lejjun on the right, and through Kefrein on the left. The high road from Kerkur to Acre, proceeds at first due north, over wooded hills to Kannir (alt. 275 feet), and near Umm esh Shuf (alt. 400 feet) ; thence it advances more easterly across the open chalky downs of the Belad er Euhah, and descends to the Plain of Esdraelon, at the mouth of Wady el Mihl, and the foot of the isolated mound of Tell Kaimoun, once fortified. The nearest habitation is the Druse hamlet of el Mansurah, at the foot of Mount Carmel ; the whole length of this route across the hills is about 14 miles, between Umm esh Shuf and Mansurah. The only village is Daliet er Ruhah (alt. 729 feet), about half a mile on the east of the road.


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224 224 THE SAMARITAN HILLS.

The Southern Samaritan Hills.

The southern limit of the Samaritan Hills, and consequently of this section of them, will be traced from the sea along the Nahr el 'Auja, and the Wady Deir Balut, which emerges from the hills at Mejdel Yaba.* At Kurawa ibn-Zeid (alt. 2,130 feet), the Wady receives two chief affluents from the north- east and south-east respectively. The north-eastern wady takes several names, including Wady Ishar. The south- eastern branch, named Wady el Jib, is chosen for the present purpose. It meanders in a deep and sinuous channel as Wady el Jib and Wady en Nimr, and skirts the foot of the steep and lofty Sinjil Eidge, well known to travellers between Jerusalem and Nablus. The Wady en Nimr rises on the Mediterranean waterparting at the northern base of Tell 'Asur (alt. 3,318 feet), and descends between the villages of Mezrah esh Sherkiyeh on the north, and Selwad on the south, to join the Wady el Jib, at the bottom of the Sinjil ridge. The Wady el Jib rises on the top of the plateau, near the village of Sinjil (alt. 2,600 feet), and makes a gradual descent to the valley by a gorge through the ridge, the slope being here three miles in length, with a fall of 600 feet. Westward the ridge stands out abruptly ; and about two miles and a half from Sinjil, at the village of Jiljilia (alt. 2,441 feet), the drop into the valley is 700 feet, within the horizontal distance of one mile.

From the source of Wady en Nimr, the main waterparting is crossed to continue the line along a brook which has its origin at three-quarters of a mile south-east of Mezrah esh Sherkiyeh, and descends, first to the north-east and then to the south-east, to fall into the rocky gorge of Wady Samieh, and thus reach the enclosed plain, which has been supposed to be identical with the Vale or Plain of Keziz.f The Wady receives a permanent stream from 'Ain el 'Aujah, and with the name of Wady el 'Aujah it runs across the Plain of Keziz, the

f See pages 81, 82.
 * See Corider's " Tent Work," ii, 227.


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225 THE SOUTHERN SAMARITAN HILLS. 225

low hills, and the Ghor, to join the Jordan, where that river is 1,200 feet below the sea.

It has been already stated that the eastern extremity of this section, displays a remarkable contrast in its natural features, to the corresponding part on the north. The ranges of twelve miles in length, with the fine open valleys on the north, here give way to mere spurs and ravines, corrugating the face of an abrupt slope, of three or four miles in length, and rising within that distance, to about 2,500 feet above the depressed Ghor. This abrupt transition is explained by another contrast arising from the sudden projection of the main waterparting towards the east, for as much as six miles, a phenomenon which takes place between Jebel et Tor (Mount Gerizim), and the summit of et Tawanik (alt. 2,847 feet).

The eastward advance of the waterparting, terminates above the Wady Samieh, where the southern limit of this section has been drawn. The recession of the waterparting to the westward, is marked by the occurrence of a curious feature, which has been brought to light by the survey. It is the small basin with no outfall, named Merj Sia, about a mile and a half in length and breadth, and surrounded by eminences rising from 2,510 feet to 2,835 feet. Besides the change in the direction of the waterparting, other features also serve to distinguish this eastern side of the southern part of the Samaritan Hills, and the highland that follows it on the south. The distinction in that direction, will be found in the account which will follow in its place, no less striking than the contrast already displayed between it and the northern part.

Amid the great contraction of the width of the Jordan Slope in this section, the elevated lateral valleys to which attention has been directed, from Mount Gilboa southward continue to be found. Next to the high Plain of Salim, a valley commences at the southern foot of et Tawanik (alt. 2,847 feet) and continues to skirt the main waterparting as far south as Mejdel-beni-Fadl (alt. 2,146 feet). Its length


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226 226 THE SAMARITAN HILLS.

exceeds five miles. It formed, no doubt, a part of the Roman Toparchy of Acrabatene, for the modern village of 'Akrabeh (alt. 2,045 feet), with antique remains, is found upon the main waterparting about midway between the ends of the valley which it completely dominates. The village of Yanun in the northern part of the valley, is considered to occupy the site of the biblical Janoah. The village of Mejdel-beni-Fadl (alt. 2,145 feet) overlooks the southern part.

The upland valley appears to be called the Jehir 'Akrabeh and to be divided into an upper and lower terrace or trough parallel to each other. The upper includes three different drainages, descending severally from et Tawanik, 'Akrabeh, and Mejdel, the first passes by Yanun and the Wady el Abeid to a stream of the lower tier, which also comes from et Tawa- nik : and the others fall to a distinct lower branch, called Wady es Seba. These form a final junction about midway between the extremities, and then bend suddenly to the east to intersect the outer range, and descend by Wady ed Dowa and Zamur, to the Plain of Ifjim.

Next to the Jehir 'Akrabeh is the Wady Nasir, on the west of Mejdel. Then follows a more extensive system, which has its northern extremity on the west of the village of Domeh (alt. 2,006 feet) ; the southern being defined by a ridge occu- pied by the village of Mugheir (alt. 2,246 feet). About a dozen different wadys contribute to two main drains called Wady ed Duba and Wady el Merajem, which descend from the opposite ends of the valley to meet midway, and then intersect the outer range, and drop down some 2,000 feet to the Ghor, at the northern end of the ruins of Phasaelis (Fusail). It is the outer range which forms the culminating summit of the eastern slope. Mugheir is on the waterparting between this valley of many names and Wady Samieh. The parting runs back to the westward for about four miles, and separates the eastern parts of the Highland of Samaria and Judaea. Dr. Robinson traversed the whole series of the upland valleys from Mug- heir to the Plain of Salim, in the contrary direction to that which has been now followed. He gives an excellent account


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227 THE SOUTHERN SAMARITAN HILLS. 227

of them.* Mons. Guerin visited the same tract,. and treats with more minuteness than any other authority on the antiquities, the villages, and their inhabitants, including some points not to be found in the survey.t

On the west of the main waterparting, this section is throughout an undulating plateau, the western edge of which, as observed from the Plain of Sharon, would probably be represented by summits of 1,200 feet, or thereabout, with variations descending to 1,000 and rising to 1,500. Towards the main waterparting, the altitudes frequently exceed 2,000 feet, and culminate in Kh. el Kerek (alt. 3,002 feet). It may be well to note the small Plain of Mukhnah, because it lies at the eastern base of Mount Gerizim, and is so well known to travellers between Jerusalem and Nablus ; but it is insignificant in comparison with the larger plains on the north. There is also the straight Wady Ishar, running south- westward from 'Akrabeh to Kurawa, with scarcely a bend for 13 miles. It receives no affluent of any consequence from its right bank, but on its left bank it takes all the drainage between it, the Sinjil Eidge, and the main waterparting.J

The range between 'Akrabeh and Iskaka, throws off its waters northward to the Wady Kanah, and sends a spur between that wady and Wady Yasuf, as far as their junction. Another spur proceeds from Iskaka to the Kanah, and has the villages of Merda, Kefr Haris, and Deir Estea on its summit. Two ridges emanating from Kefr Haris, run to the Plain of Sharon, and enclose the Wady Rabah and its branches, dividing it from Wady Kanah, on the north, and Wady Ballut on the south.

 * Eobinson's " Bib. Kes." iii, 292-297.

f Guerm, " Samarie," ii, ch. xxix-xxxii.

Probably the Wady Ishar once formed a part of the political boundary between Judaea and Samaria. Although it seems to the present writer that there can be no question about the southern limits of the natural section, which is included herein, under the name of the Samaritan Hills ; yet it should be observed that only a qualified political significance is to be attached to it. It is not intended here to enter upon the question of the political limits of Samaria in former times.


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228 228 THE SAMARITAN HILLS.

Like Wady Ishar, the Kanah generally hugs its right bank, which is formed by a range extending from Jebel et Tor or Mount Gerizim, to the Plain of Sharon at Hableh. This range affords a gentle incline between the Plain of Sharon and Nablus, and is consequently followed by a highway. Between Jebel et Tor and Funduk, the range throws off its waters northward to the Wady et Tin. But from Funduk to Hableh, its northern drainage goes to Wady Kalkilieh. A spur from Funduk divides Wady Kalkilieh from affluents of Wady et Tin, and also from the Wady en Naml, which belongs to the Kalunsaweh branch of the Iskanderuneh Basin. Indeed this spur and the range between Funduk and Jebel et Tor, form together the waterparting between the Iskanderuneh and el 'Auja Basins.

In the Plain of Sharon this section includes an isolated group of low hills, bounded on the north by the Nahr Iskanderuneh, and on the south by Nahr el'Auja. The Kalunsaweh branch of the former, and the Kalkilieh branch of the latter divide the group from the foot of the highland. It has been already noticed, as a part of the Plain of Sharon, with which it is usually associated.* But it seems probable that its connection with the highland was formerly closer ; and considering a future examination with reference to that relationship to be desirable, attention is here invited to it. These Falik hills support a considerable population, of bad character, but rich in horses, flocks, and herds. Mukhalid, or Umm Khalid, was a station of the Survey, with a fine view from Mount Hermon to Jaffa. Lieutenant Conder mentions an open woodland as still existing around Umm Sur, and both he and Mons. Guerin call attention to it as a probable remnant of Assur Forest, where King Eichard I overcame Saladin in a great battle on September 7, 1191, under the walls of Arsuf, the ancient Apollonia.f

 * See ante, p. 15.

t " Tent Work " ii, 213, 219 ; Guerin, " Samarie " ii, 374-388.


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229 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUDJEA. 229

THE MOUNTAINS OF JUD^A. Northern Group.

From the Jordan to the Plain of Sharon, the southern banks of Wady el 'Aujah, Wady Samieh, Wady el Jib, and Wady Deir Balut, define the northern limit of the moun- tains of Judsea, including a part of Mount Ephraim, as well as the heights of Judah and Benjamin. Perhaps the southern edge of Mount Ephraim reached to Tell 'Asur, Yebrud, Bir ez Zeit, and Batn Harasheh.

The summit of the slope descending to the northern limit of the Judsean Mountains, is distinguished by the following culminating points from east to west : (1.) En Nejmeh (alt. 2,391 feet), on a spur eastward from Tell 'Asur, and dominating the Plain of Keziz and Wady el 'Aujah ; (2.) Tell 'Asur (alt. 3,318 feet), on the Mediterranean waterparting ; (3.) A summit south-west of 'Attara (alt. 2,791 feet), which belongs to a ridge continued through Umm Suffah (alt. 1,997 feet), Deir en Nidhan (alt. 1,934 feet), and 'Abud (alt. 1,240 feet), to the Plain of Sharon.

The height of 'Attara is also connected with a ridge run- ning southward to the summit occupied by the ruins of Kh. Bir ez Zeit (alt. 2,665 feet), which is the centre of a system of ranges that enclose the two branches of Wady esh Shellal (Surar or Budrus), that unite at Shebtin. These heights divide the two Shebtin valleys and their branches : (1.) On the north, from Wady el Jib and the heads of the Wadys that meet at Deir Nabala, near the Plain of Sharon ; (2.) On the south, from the northern branch of Wady Malakeh,* which joins the wady from Shebtin, on the west of Nalin ; (3.) On the east, from affluents of Wady el Jib, which descend to it northwards from Beitin and Abu Kush, to join the Jib on the east of 'Attara. These affluents of Wady el Jib, form a noted section of enlarged systems of lateral com- munication along the Mediterranean waterparting, which extend throughout the remainder of the survey southward.

 * Called also Shamo, Dilbeh, and Hamid.


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230 230 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUMA.

The high road between Jerusalem and Nablus, traverses them. They separate the Mediterranean and Jordan waterparting between Tell 'Asur and Beitin, from the equally high and parallel heights of Bir ez Zeit.

The Wady Malakeh, from its source at Eamallah, to its junction with Wady Shellal at Medieh (the Maccabean Modin), and afterwards the latter wady, and Wady Nusrah, may be regarded as dividing the hills on the north from a region on the south with distinct features. The correspond- ing part of the Jordan slope is bounded by the Wady Mu- heisin, which rises near Beitin, and is continued by Wady Eummaneh to Wady Nuei'ameh.

Westward of the main waterparting, the hills and valleys on the north are very intricate and convoluted. Besides those surrounding the two Shebtin valleys, which also form the western boundary of the lateral system running north- wards from Beitin and Abu Kush, attention to the following parallel features may help to throw light on the mass. The western slope ascending from the Plain of Sharon, appears to culminate, firstly, in a range of summits represented by 'Abud (alt. 1,240 feet), Deir Abu Meshal (alt. 1,556 feet), Shubkah (alt. 1,058 feet), and Deir el Kuddis (alt. 1,264 feet) ; (2.) East- ward, at a distance of three or four miles, rises a parallel series of superior heights, represented by Kefr 'Ain (alt. 2,285 feet), Kh. Kefr Tat (alt. 2,770 feet), Neby Saleh (alt. 1,868 feet), Deir en Nidhan (alt. 1,934 feet), Beit Ello (alt. 1,797 feet), Deir Ammar (alt. 1,737 feet), and Has Kerker (alt. 1,637 feet). The interval between this range and the western series may be regarded as an intermediate terrace ; (3.) About five miles further east is the Bir ez Zeit range ; (4.) Then follows after an interval of three or four miles, the main waterparting from Tell 'Asur to Beitin; (5.) Finally, the Jordan slope exhibits the easternmost of these parallel ranges in the culminating summits of the ascent from the Jordan Plains, which are represented by en Nejmeh (alt. 2,391 feet), in continuation of a ridge running southward from el Mugheir, and by Khubbet Rummainaneh (alt. 2,024 feet).


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231 THE JEEUSALEM GROUP. 231

Between these easternmost heights and the main range, is the succession of lateral valleys beginning on the south of el Mugheir, with those which meet in Wady Samieh ; followed by the heads of Wady Dar Jerlr ; and the remarkable group descending southwards from Tell 'Asur to Wady Mueheisin and Wady Asis, at the head of Wady Nuei'ameh. The in- terval between these ranges is about five miles in width. It is doubtless a part of the Wilderness of Beth Aven. The main wadys cut through the outer range in deep and rocky gorges, which become exceedingly steep on the final descent.

On the west of this northernmost part of the Judaean highland, must be included the isolated group of low hills in the midst of the Plain of Sharon, between the Nusrah branch and the main stream of Nahr el 'Auja. They reach an altitude of 295 feet.

The Jerusalem Group.

South of the foregoing division, the Judsean heights are characterised very remarkably and distinctly. Beginning on the west, it will be seen that a marked separation occurs on the south of Wady Malakeh, between the base of the moun- tains rising toward the east and the lowland hills sinking toward the west. On the north of Wady Malakeh, the descent from the main waterparting to the Plain of Sharon is gradual, and the successive terraces already indicated, succeed each other with comparatively little interruption of the general slope. But on the south of Wady Malakeh, " the frowning mountains of Judah rise abruptly from the tract of hills at their foot ;"* and the highland is divided from the lowland hills by a succession of valleys running north and south, or in a meridional direction. The most northerly of this series is Wady el Muslib, a branch of Wady Malakeh. It is followed by Wady el Mikteleh, which runs south through the beautiful Plain or Merj of Ibn Amir, Joshua's "Valley of Ajalon."f This plain is more than two miles

f Josh. x. 12.
 * Robinson ii, 231.

Q 2


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232 232 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUD^A.

wide ; it strongly emphasises the division between the high- land and lowland, and is one of the characteristic features of this part. ' The continuity of the meridional valleys is broken at Yalo, but it is soon renewed again by a valley descending from the south towards Latron, and by another running southward to Wady es Surar, between Surah (Samson's Zorah), and Artuf. At Artuf, the Wady en Najil falling into Wady es Surar prolongs the meridional series, which is carried still farther south by affluents of Wady es Sunt, especially Wady es Sur. The distance from Wady Malakeh to the head of Wady es Sur is about 24 miles.

The distinction between the lowland hills and the moun- tains on the east of them, is definitely expressed by the series of altitudes observed along the high road between Jaffa and Jerusalem. The plain at the foot of the hills near Ludd, is 165 feet above the sea; and the rise goes on steadily for eight miles up to 940 feet at Bir Main, or 960 feet, a little beyond. Here the hills drop down suddenly to the Plain of Yalo (Ibn Amir or Ajalon), where the lowest observation i? 685 feet. East of the plain, the mountains of Judah rise rapidly, and reach an altitude of 2,172 feet, near Beit Anan, about two miles from their base on the edge of the plain, or four miles from the level of 685 feet before mentioned. About three miles further east, the altitude is 2,621 feet at Beit Izza. This place is on the waterparting which divides the basins of Nahr el 'Auja and Nahr Rubin. Here this waterparting also coincides with the western boundary of the great Plain of Gibeon, or el Jib, drained by the Wady Beit Hannina and its affluents. The eastern edge of the plain is the main waterparting between the basins of the Mediter- ranean and the Jordan. The Plain of el Jib is thus on the summit of the Highlands of Judaea ; and the direction of its drainage designates it as a portion of the series of great lateral valleys, which, while they form parts of the general slopes on either side of the main axis lie at right angles to the slope, and parallel with the axis, and thus greatly facilitate communication.

The northern limit of the Plain of el Jib in its fullest


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233 THE JERUSALEM GROUP. 233

extent, is the waterparting of the Eubin Basin, from Bireh to Earn Allah ; or it may be confined to the foot of the slope descending southward from that eminence. Its southern edge has been already described in page 43, on the authority of Dr. Eobinson. But it seems preferable for the present purpose to take a larger view of the subject, and to connect with the Plain of el Jib, the ground on the west of Jeru- salem, and also the Plain of Eephaim, called on the survey, el Bukei'a, which lies on the south-west of the city. The whole may come under the general denomination of the Western Plateau of Jerusalem. There is an Eastern Plateau adjoining on the Jordan watershed.

The group of the Judaean Hills now under notice, is limited on the south by another group, named the Shephelah in the Bible, and corresponding in extent with ancient Philistia. The low hills of the present group are of a similar character to the Shephelah, and adjoin that tract ; but they are clearly related to the Plain of Sharon, while the hills of the Shephelah terminate in the range including Surar and Abu Shusheh, and dividing Sharon from Philistia. The towns of the Shephelah and Philistia named in the Bible, so far as they have been discovered, all lie to the south of the Plain of Sharon, which does not extend southward beyond the basin of Nahr el 'Auja, including the valleys which pass to the plain by Eamleh and Ludd. The dividing line between this mountain group and the Shephelah, is therefore traced along the watercourses which pass south-eastward from Eamleh by el Kubab and south of Latron, to the waterparting on the north of Eshua, and then by the water- course which passes Eshua, to Wady es Surar. Here the borders of the Shephelah are left, and Wady es Surar is ascended as far as its confluence with Wady es Sikreh, when the latter is followed upwards to the junction of Wady Ahmed, which is next ascended up to the Jordan waterparting on the west of Bethlehem. On the east of the waterparting, the dividing line is laid along the wady named et Tahuneh, Fureidis, Khu- reitun, el Mu'allak, and ed Derajeh, to the Dead Sea.


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234 234 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUMA.

The line from Wady es Surar to Wady ed Derajeh, is chosen for the purpose of dividing the mountain group dis- tinguished by the Plain of Yalo and the higher plains of the Plateau of Jerusalem, from the more elevated and otherwise distinctly characterised group, which has its centre about Hulhul and Hebron, and is called in the Bible " The Hill Country." South of the line, the ground rises at once. At el Khudr, or the Convent of St. George, it is 2,832 feet, and at Tekua it is 2,798 feet, with a continual ascent to 3,546 feet at er Rameh on the north of Hebron. On the north of the line, the prominent Frank Mountain, opposite Tekua, is only 2,489 feet; and the Convent of Mar Elyas facing el Khudr is 2,616 feet. No heights of 3,000 feet are found northward until Tell 'Asur is reached.

The foregoing remarks on the present group, have been directed mainly to the purpose of expounding the main features that give occasion for the group, and the determ ina- tion of its limits. It is now proposed to regard the Western Jerusalem Plateau, including the Plains of el Jib and Eephaim, as the centre and summit of the group, and to take note of the slopes which descend therefrom to the west (1), south (2), and east (3).

(1.) It has been already observed that the waterparting between Nahr el 'Auja and Nahr Rubin, forms the western edge of the Plain of el Jib. The drainage from the northern and western side, between Bireh, Ram Allah, and the Beth Horon Road is carried off to Wady Malakeh by Wady Hamis, Wady el Kelb, Wady 'Ain 'Arik, Wady es Sunt, and Wady el Mahbis and Imeish.*

Mountain spurs, interposed between these wadys, descend from the Plain of el Jib, to the left bank of the Malakeh, and have their heads at Ram Allah (alt. 2,850 feet), el Muntar, (alt. 2,685 feet), and Beitunia (alt. 2,570 feet). The Wady Imeish has its head in the Plain of el Jib, and in its descent, it becomes the deep gorge on the north side of the famous pass dominated by the villages of Beit Ur el Foka,

 * See ante, page 39.


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235 THE JERUSALEM GROUP. 235

and el Tahta, or Beth Horon, upper and lower. The pass is along the ridge of a spur, which has an altitude of 2,545 feet above the sea on the edge of the Plain of el Jib. It divides into three at its base below Beit Ur et Tahta. The Jerusalem Jaffa road, comes to the ridge from el Jib, and follows it to Lower Beth-Horon, where it continues its descent by the southernmost prong of the triple fork to Beit Sira in the Plain of Yalo or Ajalon. No less than three main roads, and six minor roads meet at Beit Ur et Tahta.

On the south of the Beth Horon ridge, is Wady Selman, Suleiman, or Solomon, which also rises on the western edge of the Plain of el Jib, and descends to the Plain of Ajalon, on its way to el Kubab, Ludd, and Nahr el 'Auja. Another high road between Jerusalem and Jaffa, runs along the bottom of this gorge to the Plain of Ajalon, where it crosses one of the Beth Horon roads, and runs on to Berfilia, Ludd, and Jaffa. About a mile west of Jimzu, this road falls in with the parallel road on the north, from Beth Horon to Ludd, which passes under the ruins of Medieh, identified with Modin of the Maccabees. A spur commencing at the village of Beit Izza (alt. 2,620 feet), on the west of el Jib, forms the southern side of the upper part of the Selman gorge, and divides it from Wady el Marud or Keikabeh, an affluent which rises on the edge of the Plain of el Jib, between Beit Izza, Biddu, and el Kubeibeh, and unites with the Selman at the foot of Beit Ur el Foka. Below the junction of Wady el Marud, Wady Selman has for its southern bank, a spur that descends north-westward from the waterparting at Biddu, between Wady el Marud and Khallet el Kala, and originates in the prominent cone of Neby Samwil (alt. 2,935 feet), which rises in the midst of the Plain of el Jib. Another road from the Plain of Yalo to Jerusalem ascends this spur and passes Beit Likia, Beit Anan, el Kubeibeh, and Biddu.

From Kubeibeh, a range runs westward to the Plain of Yalo, with a broad slope to the north, but without any place of note ; another spur from Biddu, passes due west to the Wady el Kotneh and the village of Katanneh. At its


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236 236 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUD^A.

extremity is the ruin of Kefireh, the Chephirah of Joshua ix, 17.

South of Biddu, the waterparting of the 'Auja and Eubin Basins ceases to be connected with the Plain of el Jib, although it continues to throw spurs from its northern side, westward towards the Plain of Yalo, and to 'Arnwas. The main range trends to the south-west and west, and has on its summit the villages of Kuriet el Enab, Saris, and Beit Mahsir. It is probably the Mount Ephron of Joshua xv, 9 ; Kuriet el Enab being Baalah or Kirjath Jearim. A road from Kamleh by el Kubab, and between Latron and 'Amwas, passes up to the summit of Saris, and follows the ridge to Kuriet el Enab, where it turns eastward, passing Kustul, Kulonieh, and Lifta, to Jerusalem.

(2.) The orography of the middle part of the group will now be described. It is all within the upper portion of the Nahr Kubin Basin, and its watercourses are noticed under that heading.* The northern extremity of this tract, and indeed the whole of its eastern side, is included in the western plateau of Jerusalem, with the Plain of el Jib on the north, and the Plain of Eephaim or the Giants on the south. It will be remembered that the Wadys Ahmed, Sikkeh, and Surar or Ismain, form in succession the southern limit of the tract. The spurs or ranges thrown off from the 'Auja-Eubin waterparting towards the Surar, will be noticed first. Those from the Jerusalem Plateau, to the left bank of the Surar, will follow. It will be convenient here to apply the name of Wady el Surar to the central main wady from Lifta downwards.

The connection of the conical mountain of Neby Samwil with the main range has been already noticed. The proper base of this mass is well defined by the Wadys Amir, Beit Hannina and Buwai. On the right bank of the Buwai, a distinct range proceeds from the waterparting on the west of Biddu, and descends to the Surar at Kulonieh. The same range is prolonged westward to the junction of Wady Ghurab and el Mutluk, with Wady es Surar, and separates the

 * See ante, pages 42 to 45.


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237 THE JERUSALEM GROUP. 237

deep and rugged gorges of those wadys. It is believed to be the Mount Seir of Joshua xv, 10. On its summit are found the villages of Beit Surik (alt. 2,690 feet), Kustul (alt. 2,650 feet), Soba (alt. 2,567 feet), Kh. Batn es Saghir* (alt. 2,280 feet), Kh. Shufa (alt. 2,697 feet), 'Akur, and at its extremity is 'Artuf (alt. 910 feet). Below 'Artuf, the valleys expand into a beautiful plain, surrounded by many biblical sites.

Spurs of Mount Seir or Saghir descend to Wady Ghurab on the north, and to Wady es Surar on the south. The most important is one that divides Wady esh Shemmarin from Wady es Surar. It contains the villages of Setaf and Kh. el Loz. The altitude at the confluence is 1,297 feet. Another spur descends from Akur to the left bank of Wady el Hamar or Ghurab, and it includes the village of Nesla, the Ohesalon of Joshua xv, 10.

Other spurs descend from the main range between Beit Surik and Kuryet el Enab ; but they are only short corru- gations of the right bank of the Upper Ghurab. Lower down, that wady hugs the main range closely. It is reported to be a deep and narrow chasm, though less deep and wild than the parallel Wady Ismain or Surar, on the south.

There are no spurs emanating from the western side of the Jordan waterparting, or from the Jerusalem Plateau on the westward of it, to the northward of Lifta ; for the swelling ground about Shafat is scarcely of that description. South of Lifta, the course of the Wady Surar is advanced suddenly- westward for about two miles, and thus space is found for the commencement of tributaries to Wady el Werd and es Sikkeh, as well as of the ridge which separates that wady throughout from the Surar. It is called Jebel Ali. Along its slopes towards Wady Surar, are the villages of Deir Yesin, and Ain Karim, the latter having the Latin monastery of St. John.

(3.) The Jordan watershed of the present group extends

rough, rugged.
 * This name is the Arabic equivalent of the Hebrew Seir, both meaning


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238 238 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUDAEA.

from Bethel to Bethlehem, and from Wady Nuei'ameh on the north of the Plain of Jericho to the Wady Derajeh on the Dead Sea. Between Nuei'ameh and Derajeh are the basins of Wady Kelt, Wady el Kueiserah, and Wady en Nar or Brook Kidron : besides three groups of secondary basins.*

The plains which distinguish the western and central parts of this group, are not without a representative among the rugged features of the eastern side, where the Bukei'a extends between Wady Mukelik and Wady en Nar, about two miles from the Convent of Mar Saba, and above the line of cliffs at the northern end of the Dead Sea.f

The bottom of the mountains between 'Ain Nuei'ameh and Wady Kelt is a wall of rocky precipices, which rises at Jebel Kuruntul or Quarantania to more than 1,000 feet above the Plain of Jericho, or 320 feet above the sea. Between Wady Kelt and El Kueiserah, a distance of four miles and a half, the cliffs give way to a slope which rises about 2,000 feet above the plain, to Talat et Dumm on the road between Jericho and Jerusalem, and about four miles from the plain. The precipitous wall is the abrupt termination of ridges that descend rapidly from the line of Eastern Summits that was brought down in the preceding group to Kubbet Eummama- neh (alt. 2,024 feet). From that point the Eastern Summits are carried on by a distinct line of heights running south- ward to Ras et Tawil (alt. 1,964 feet) ; and from thence by another range at the head of Wady Rijan, to a summit on the south of the confluence of Wady es Suweinit, with Wady Farah. This summit is on the waterparting of Wady Kelt, which the line now follows to Talat et Dumm. From Talat et Dumm, the summit of this slope runs for two miles south- eastward to Jebel Ekteif, which is only three miles from the plain, and about 1,800 feet above it, or 840 feet above the sea. The slope is included in the secondary basins on the north of el Kueiserah, described before at page 95. South of el Kueiserah, the cliffs reappear, and skirting the Dead

f See page 99.
 * See pages 84 to 106.


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239 THE JERUSALEM GROUP. 239

Sea, they form the base of the highland for the rest of the survey. They rise to a height of about 1,000 feet, and between el Kueiserah and Wady ed Derajeh, they are capped by summits that slope upwards to a further altitude. Tubk el Kuneiterah is 306 feet above the ocean, or 1,598 feet above the Dead Sea. Tubk es Sammarah is 530 feet above the ocean, or 1,822 feet above the Dead Sea. These heights are on the eastern side of the Plain of el Bukei'a, which has on the west a range which culminates in el Muntar, a mountain on the north of the Greek convent of Mar Saba, with an altitude of 1,723 feet above the ocean, or 3,015 feet above the Dead Sea. The range of el Muntar is a prolongation south- ward from Jebel Ektief, and it is intersected by the rocky gorge of Wady Mukelik at the southern foot of Ekteif. From el Muntar the range is continued to the south-west, and crosses the Wady en Nar where it bends to the south, and soon runs due south by Akabet el Murajeh (alt. 1,600 feet) to the Wady el 'Alya, and passes it by Muksar Ismain in a south-westerly direction to Wady Tamireh, beyond which it follows another ridge running due south to Wady el Muallak or ed Derajeh, the southern boundary of this group. This line of Eastern Summits will be found extending to the end of the survey, oftentimes and generally with a distinctness which throws a light on less obvious portions.

On the north of the Plain of el Bukei'a, the slopes between the Eastern Summits and the cliffs, is a succession of ridges and ravines with the rocky gorges of Wady Rumma- maneh, and Wady Kelt on the north and south. A highway from Jericho, through Mukhmas and Deir Diwan to Bethel crosses this part. The highway from Jerusalem to Jericho enters the slope at Talat et Dumm, which is therefore a noted point ; and it is considered to be identical with the Adummim of Joshua xv, 7. Between el Bukei'a and Wady ed Derajeh, the slope passes from the rugged valley of Wady en Nar or Kidron, to rolling chalk downs spreading out from the lofty cliffs that border the Dead Sea to the Eastern Eange ; which here throws out upon the downs, like advanced posts,


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240 240 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUDAEA.

the heights of Kurn el Hajr (alt. 1,460 feet), and er Eueikbeh (alt. 1,486 feet). One of the roads from Jerusalem to Engedi, crosses this part near the top of the cliffs.

The tract between the Main Waterparting Eange and the Eastern Eange, as far as the summit on the south of the confluence of the Farah and Suweinit, may be distinguished as the northern part of the Eastern Plateau of Jerusalem. South of the unnamed summits, the eastern edge of the plateau must be sought further to the west than the Eastern Eange, as it has been traced on the south of that summit. The westerly projection of the Jordan Waterparting, as it advances southward, widens the slope ; and the altitude and structure of the ground together indicate the interposition of a medial range and terrace, which may be observed all the way southward from Wady Farah.

The Middle Eange passes from the summit on the south of Wady Farah, along the Waterparting south-westward, to the rocks of 'Arak Ibrahim ; when it proceeds southward, across two wadys, to a long range distinguished by Arak esh Shem, Kh. Karrit, and Kh. er Eaghabneh. The Middle Eange is now intersected by a remarkable bend of Wady Abu Hindi, and proceeds to a similar bend of Wady Abu Nar, both of the bends being due to the intersection of the range and the sudden descent of the wadys from higher to lower ground. The range is next denned by the prominent heights of Deir Ibn Obeid* and Umm el Tala, on the east of Bethlehem, and crosses the Wady el War to Jebel Fureidis, or Paradise, called also the Frank mountain, and the site of the fortress of Herodium erected by Herod the Great, on the southern boundary of the present group.

The Middle Eange from Wady Farah to Jebel Fureidis, and the Eastern Eange from Wady Farah northward to Eas et Tawil and Wady Eummamaneh, separate the habitable tract of the Eastern Plateau of Jerusalem, from the wild ravines and ridges that descend from it rapidly and form the lower parts of the mountain. The plateau is generally

 * The ruined Monastery of Theodosius, including two churches.


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241 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUP-ffiA. 241

more than 2,000 feet above the sea, up to its eastern edge in the Middle Eange. It contains Jerusalem and Bethlehem, with several villages and cultivated grounds, besides many ruined sites that are the remnants of a much larger popula- tion. Between the Middle and Eastern Kanges, and below the latter to the foot of the mountains, not a village is to be found, and the only settled habitation is the fortified Greek Convent of Mar Saba. The high lateral valleys on the east of the main waterparting that have been traced from the north of Samaria up to Wady el Ain and the northern boundary of this group, are continued southward from Deir Diwan, to Jeba, Hizmeh, Anata, and el 'Aisawiyeh to Jerusalem. But the lateral character of the valleys on the Eastern Plateau is much less developed, than it is in the valleys of the Western Plateau, from Bireh to Bethlehem. South of Bethlehem, the lateral valleys are found again chiefly on the eastern side of the range as far as Hulhul ; when they are once more transferred to the other side, and are taken up by the great Wady el Khulil and its parallel affluents.

The Hill Country of Judah, or the Hebron Group.

The eastern boundary of this mountain system is defined by the shores of the Dead Sea. On the south the subject cannot for the present be discussed owing to the limits of the Survey. On the west the boundary has been already indi- cated southward from Wady Surar along the Wady en Najil and Wady es Sur. South of the head of the latter wady, and as far as Beit Auwa, there might be some doubt about the continuity of the meridional division between the foot of the Mountains of Judah, and the Lowland Hills of the Shephelah, as the hill drawing of the Survey is not so expressive or accentuated as it might be. But here the evidence of Dr. Robinson removes all hesitation as far south as Tell Beit Mirsim and Burj el Beiyarah.* Indeed the

steep ascent of the higher ridge soon commences." "Bib. Res." ii, 70.
 * He remarks that " Idhna lies at the foot of the mountains, where the


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242 242 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUD.EA.

meridional valleys occur again at Beit Auwa, where they spread out into a plain stretching southward as far as Tell Beit Mirsim, and are continued by Wady el Beiyarah and Wady edh Dhikah up to Khurbet Khuweilfeh. Here is the waterparting between the basins of Wady el Hesy and Wady Ghuzzeh, and the boundary of the Shephelah now turns abruptly to the west, along the line of Wady Khuweilfeh and the great Wady esh Sheriah, to Wady Ghuzzeh and the sea. South of Khurbet Khuweilfeh, the Hill Country of Judah drops down to the broad Plain of Beersheba. For the sake of precision, the dividing line between the Judean Hills and the mountain that divides the Plain of Beersheba from Wady esh Sheriah, may be traced along a wady descending from Khurbet Khuweilfeh, by Wady Itmy to Wady el Khulil, and its outlet into Wady es Seba.

The summit of the Main Eange of this group coincides with the Mediterranean and Jordan waterparting from Bethlehem southward. It forms the eastern boundary of the basins of Nahr Eubin, Nahr Sukereir, and Wady el Hesy, and has been already traced in connection with them.*

The Western Slope.

The northern side of the western slope begins its descent to the northern boundary of the group formed by Wady Ahmed, Wady el Werd, Wady Sikkeh, and Wady es Surar, from the main waterparting between Bethlehem and el Khudr, where it is spread out between Wady Ahmed and Wady Bittir. From el Khudr. a range strikes westward by Hausan, and Deir Hawa, to terminate at the confluence of Wady Ismain or Surar with Wady en Najil. It is followed by a highway along the eastern part of the ridge, and by a track along the western part. It sends only a short slope to the wadys of the northern boundary; but it throws off considerable spurs to the south. Thus from Hausan a short spur forms the upper part of the left bank of Wady Musurr

Also, " The ruins of el Burj are situated very near the border of the hilly region towards the western plain." " Bib. Res." ii, 218.
 * See ante, pages 46, 51, 54.


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243 THE HEBRON GROUP. 243

and a longer one reaches to the lower part where it joins Wady el Jindy. The next spur divides Wady el Jindy from Wady el Werd, and terminates at the head of Wady en Najil. Five more spurs descending from the ridge to Wady en Najil complete its southern slope.

Between el Khudr and Balutet el Yerzeh, the main range descends to Wady Musurr, and from the Balutet a long range extends westward to Wady es Sunt, and divides Wady el Jindy from Wady Helwas. It has the small village of Jeba on its summit. Between Balutet el Yerzeh and Khurbet Jedur, the main range descends by short spurs to Wady el 'Abhar, a branch of Wady Helwas. The villages of Safa and Surif are on this part of the slope. Between Khurbet Jedur and Hulhul, all the ridges descend to Wady es Sur or its affluents ; and the villages of Kharas, Nuba, and Beit Aula, are situated in a line on the lower part of the slope. A ridge running direct west from near Hulhul to the head of Wady Bir es Suweideh, and then bending northward along the left bank of the latter wady, divides the affluents of Wady Sunt from those of Wady Afranj, both being in the Sukereir basin. From near Hulhul to Dura on the main range, the spurs fall to Wady el Afranj. At Dura, the advance of the main range towards the west, reduces the length of the western slope ; and the contraction gradually comes to a point at Kh. Khuweilfeh from the same cause. A north-westerly spur from Dura divides the Afranj from the affluents of Wady el Ghueit, which is the southernmost of the great divisions of the Nahr Sukereir basin. Only a mile south of Dura, the waterparting between the Sukereir and el Hesy basins emanates from the main range at Eas el Biain, and is formed by a long range running westward to the sea at Ascalon. It is the slope drained by the affluents of the Ghueit, between Idhna and Beit 'Auwa, which breaks the continuity of the meridional valleys, that form the division between this mountain group and the Shephelah. But a careful study of the Survey, coupled with Dr. Kobinson's notes, leads to the conclusion that in this part the separation


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244 244 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUMA.

will be found as distinctly marked as elsewhere, and perhaps more broadly.

Between Ras el Biain and Shaik Abu Kharrubeh, all the spurs descending from the main range between those points, which are about eight miles apart, concentrate in the plain on the east of Tell el Akra. Those also between Kharrubeh and Kh. Khuweilfeh meet in the plain called Sahel es Sabti. The descent from this point to Beersheba belongs to the other side of the main range. The bold and bluff descent of the western hills to the valley which divides them from the foot of the eastern range, is well shown on the new maps in this part.

The Eastern Slope.

The northern side of the eastern part of the present group, the Hill Country of Judah, descends to Wady Khureitun from a range which emanates from the main waterparting at Ballutet el Yerzeh (alt. 3,167 feet) on the east of the village of Safa. The range first proceeds for a mile and a half to the south-east, and then turns a little east of north for a like distance, when it bends eastward to reach the high plateau of Tekua. The bend at starting is made to turn the head of Wady el Biar, which descends the northern slope for five miles in a north-easterly direction, and joins the boundary of the group in Wady et Tahuneh, on the south of Bethlehem. From the plateau of Teku'a, the northern range extends to the south-east, and ends in Has Nukb Hamar which drops by lofty cliffs to the south side of the gorge of the Derajeh where it opens on to the shore of the Dead Sea. The Eas is 678 feet above the ocean, or 1,970 feet above the Dead Sea.

A ridge on the right bank of Wady el Biar, runs north- eastward to Wady et Tahuneh, and then bends to the south- east along that wady, as far as its junction with Wady Abu Nejeim, which rises near the head of Wady el Biar. Wady Abu Nejeim drains the southern side of this ridge, and also the northern side of the Plateau of Teku'a. On the eastern side of Teku'a are the great Caverns of Khureitun, in a cliff


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245 THE HEBRON GROUP. 245

overlooking the Wady Khureitun, which is a part of the northern boundary of the present group. The caverns face Jebel Fureidis ; and in the time of the Crusaders they came to be regarded as the Cave of Adullam ; but the true site lies far away at the western foot of the mountains, at Kh. 'Aid el Ma, in the Wady es Sur. Teku'a is on the waterparting between the basins of Wady ed Derajeh and Wady el Areijeh, the latter emptying itself at Engedi. From this waterparting near Teku'a, three wadys with intermediate spurs descend, and unite in a rocky gorge which cuts through the northern ridge and joins the gorge of ed Derajeh.

The plateau of Teku'a is the first part of the Middle Eange in this group. Its prolongation to the south is found in a very distinct form in the long ridge of Kanan ez Zaferan, which, with the plateau of Teku'a, encloses the heads of the basin of Wady el Areijeh, that have their sources along the main range from Safa to Hulhul. These head valleys all concentrate in the Wady el 'Arrub, which soon after receives the drainage of a circular tract on the west of the plateau of Teku'a, and then cuts through the Middle Eange on a rocky gorge. The breadth between the Main and the Middle Ranges at the widest part, where the 'Arrub enters the gorge, is about six miles. Near Hulhul it contracts to two miles, but it widens out again immediately to three miles, and goes on with a breadth of about four miles.

The Kanan ez Zaf aran terminates at Khurbet el Addeiseh, on the waterparting that divides the basins of el Areijeh and Ghuzzeh, at the head of the valley of el Khulil or Hebron. The Middle Range passes from the Kanan to this water- parting range, and follows it to Beni Nairn (alt. 3,120 feet) and on to Khurbet Birein. Between Beni Nairn and Khurbet Birein the waterparting divides the affluents of Wady el Khulil from those of Wady el Khubera. At Khurbet Birein, the Middle Range has its summit on a ridge that contains the ancient town of Yutta or Juttah, and divides from the affluents of Wady el Khulil, the wady called

R


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246 246 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUMA.

at its head Wady Abu Hirsh and Wady el Butm on its lower course. The Middle Range conies to an end in the Plain of Beersheba.

From the head of the Hebron Valley southward, the space between the Main and the Middle Eanges, is wholly occupied by that valley and its branches, which throughout maintain an average width of four miles. The length of the valley from its head to its junction with Wady es Seba, is about 30 miles.

Eastward of the Middle Eange, and parallel to it, is the continuation of the Eastern Range, from the northern boundary of the group at Wady el Muallak. The line passes from Kubr Ghaunameh, to the head of the rocky gorge of Wady Mukta el Juss, thence by the spurs that separate the Wadys Dannun and Bassas to the range at el Megheidhah, and Rujm Abu Zumeitir ; thence to the summit of Dharet el Meshrefeh (alt. 1,696 feet), and southward to Dharet es Sukiyeh (alt. 1,836 feet), Dharet el Kolah, and the summit of the range on the south of Wady el War, which runs unbroken for 23 miles to the Wady el Milh. The principal summits on this very distinctly denned and concluding portion of the Eastern Range, are : Tell et Tuany (alt. 2,837 feet), on the highway between Yutta, Kurmul, and Engedi ; and Kanan el Aseif (alt. 3,002 feet), on the road from Yutta to Tell el Milh, or Moladah.

This first attempt to indicate, and to give a precise limit- ation to the triple succession of terraces above the Dead Sea cliffs, which the New Survey has disclosed, may not be always supported by a critical examination on the ground in every particular ; but generally the distinct separation of the three steps, seems to be unquestionable. The lowest step between the cliffs and the base of the Eastern Range is about four miles wide at the north end, and gradually increases to about eight miles in the southern part. Only a few scattered summits rise to 1,400 feet above the ocean, but it must be remembered that the surface of the Dead Sea is 1,292 feet below that level. Between Teku'a and Ain Jidy, in this step, is probably


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247 THE HEBRON GROUP. 247

the Wilderness of Jeruel, 2 Chron. xx, 16. " The end of the brook," may be the head of Wady el Mukeiberah, the invaders being drawn up on the slope facing the ascent to Teku'a.*

The steep ascent to the next higher level forms part of the Eastern Eange, the length of which, south of Wady ed Derajeh, exceeds 30 miles, and for more than two-thirds of that length, the range has a descent on the western side, as well as the eastern. In other parts, it is but an acceleration of the slope to a greater or less extent, but it seems to be always sufficient to maintain the continuity of the feature.

The southern part of the middle terrace, or the step between the Eastern and the Middle Eanges, includes several villages at the present time, and some ruins, among both of which are representatives of the very ancient towns of the Hill Country of Judah ; such are Kh. Attir or Jattir, Semua or Eshtemoh, Kurmel or Carmel, Tell Main or Maon, Yuttah or Juttah, Tell es Zif or Ziph, Kh. Gannim or Anim, Beni Nairn or Janum, the latter names, in each case, being biblical.

North of Ziph, the habitable country recedes to the Middle Eange, or westward of it ; for on the east the country is too steep or broken, and only fit for nomadic pasturage. The triangular tracts, enclosed by ranges of hills on the east and west of the Kanan ez Zaferan, on the north of Hebron, are curious contrasts ; the western being a populated plateau, while the eastern is a remarkably steep slope and probably uninhabitable, and only fit for pasture.

The highest plateau which lies between the middle and main ranges is habitable throughout, although the existing villages are sparse and small ; but the evidences of a much larger population in former times, are everywhere, both here and on the western slopes. Its principal features, beginning on the north, are (1) the long Wady el Biar, which skirts the Main Eange from Kh. Breikut, to Urtas on the northern boundary of the group. (2) The widely extended branches of Wady 'Arrub, with which may be noticed the more northerly

 * See ante, page 109.

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248 248 THE MOUNTAINS OF JUDAEA.

valleys uniting in Wady Rekeban, and those further north that join in Wady Abu Nejeim. The spurs of these valleys are threaded by an aqueduct, which draws its supplies from Birket Kufin, near Beit Ummar, and from 'Ain Kueiziba, about two miles on the south-east ; these unite at Birket el 'Arrub, and the aqueduct then passes along the left bank of Wady 'Arrub, till it approaches the confluence of Wady er Eekeban, when it turns northwards, and meanders up and down the sides of valley after valley, till it reaches el Burak, near Urtas. (3) The valley of Hebron or Wady el Khulil. The northernmost head of this great valley commences, as Wady en Nusara at Khurbet Beit Anun, the Beth Anoth of Judah, near Hulhul.

The Wady el Khulil originates (1) partly on the eastern and southern slopes of a rectangular bend of the waterparting that divides the wady from the basin of Nahr Sukereir, on the west, and (2) partly along the Mediterranean waterparting, where it makes a rectangular bend eastward, and then to the south-east, between Hulhul and Beni Nairn, dividing the Khulil from the Areijeh Basin.

The eastern and southern slopes respectively, of the first- named rectangular bend, have their drainage divided by ground thrown off as a ridge from the projecting corner of the bend, in a south-easterly direction, and then expanding like a fan, which terminates in short slopes on the north and west, and in a long slope towards the south-east and south. This divides the head of the valley into two parts, and the eastern and larger part slopes towards the waterparting that runs from Hulhul and Beni Nairn, close along which the channel passes which collects the waters until spurs from Beni Nairn, and further south, push the channel against the long slope of the fan before-mentioned, at the southern end of which the eastern channel unites with Wady Khulil in meandering southwards. The western part is limited on the south by a ridge extending eastward to the foot of Hebron, and throwing off a long branching spur to the south, as far as Rujm ed Deir. Below Hebron the ridge is


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249 THE HEBRON GROT I'. 249

divided by a gorge from the fan before-mentioned. There is, at the head of the eastern part, a valley in the centre, and others along the eastern and western sides of this part, all running southwards, till the western is diverted towards the head of the gorge by the southern ridge, and receives the others on the way. The gorge takes the name of Wady el Kady, or el Khulil, and after a mean- dering course southward for more than a mile it bends abruptly eastward, and meets the eastern branch. After the junction, the main wady again meanders to the south, till it is turned to the south-west by the Yutta range, and the spurs proceeding from it, which supply two consider- able tributaries to the left bank, the first at Khurbet Eabut and the second at the foot of a spur surmounted by a road from Dhaheriyeh. Here the Wady el Khulil again impinges on the descending Yutta Range, and winds around its short bluffs, down to the Plain of Beersheba.

On the western side, from the waterparting at Khurbet Kanan, an inner range is given off, which forms a long plateau or narrow terrace with lateral valleys between it and the waterparting. It encloses the branching valleys at the head of Wady ed Dilbeh, and forms the unbroken range, about six miles long, on which Dhaheriyeh is situated. For two miles and a half in the central part the continuity of the range is only traceable in more rapid slopes without lateral valleys ; but this does not prevent the highway from Hebron through Dhaheriyeh to the Plain of Beersheba, from following this inner range throughout.

THE SHEPHELAH OR PHILISTIA.

The natural limits of the Shephelah have been discussed in the foregoing chapter. Viewed as a whole, these hills present the aspect of an amphitheatre, encircling the Plain of Philistia on the east, from Gaza to Jaffa. The new survey which has enabled the eastern boundary to be defined, also supplies the means of unriddling the tangled structure of the


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mass, and to that subject the following remarks will be addressed.

A succession of main wadys from the mountains of Judah, intersect the hills of the Shephelah from east to west, and constitute dividing lines between the five groups into which it is convenient to arrange the mass for the purpose of its description.

I.

The Wady es Surar is the most northerly of these dividing wadys. From its northern or right bank, a range of hills extends in a north-westerly direction nearly up to Jaffa. The villages of Eshua, Amwas, el Kubab, the towns of Eamleh and Ludd, with Safiriyeh, Beit Dejan and Yazur, skirt the northern foot of the range towards the Judsean Hills and the Plain of Sharon. On the summit of the range are Surah and Abu Shusheh. On the western side are Kuldeh, el Mansurah, Naaneh, Akir, el Mughar, Zornukah, el Kubeibeh and Surafend. The waterparting between the basins of Nahr el 'Auja and Nahr Rubin, is on the summit of this range.

The range is distinctly divisible into three parts, of which the southernmost has a biblical celebrity derived from the birth and exploits of Samson. It is a circular block surrounded by Wady Surar, Wady el Khalil, and Wady Atallah, the last flowing by Latron. From a semicircular outer range, rising from the south-eastern part of the base two main valleys pass through the block westward, and fall into Wady es Surar. It has been already noticed on p. 50 that the southern valley contains the ruins named Khurbet Surik, and that name combined with the situation of the valley, serves to identify it with the Valley of Sorek where Samson was taken prisoner in the house of Delilah. Zorah, where Samson was born, is the present village of Surah (alt. 1,171 feet) at the head of the valley and on the summit of the outer range. The northern valley is of greater extent and drains the main body of the block. The site of Samson's En Hak-kore is the Ayun el Khaijeh, and Ramath Lehi is placed at Kh. Ism Allah. Perhaps the site of


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251 THE SHEPHELAH OR PHILISTIA. 251

the Mahaneh or camp of Dan is Khurbet Kila, or the ruined fort. Spurs from the outer range divide it from the Vale of Sorek on the south and from the Wady el Khalil on the north. The greatest length of this block is about six miles, and its breadth exceeds four miles.

On the north of Wady el Khalil is another division of the range, with the Wady Harir on its north-eastern base, and the Plain of Akir or Ekron on the south-west. The north- western boundary is traced from the Plain of Ekron along Wady Bahlas, to an affluent of Wady Harir, having Eas Abu Hamid at its outlet. The only biblical site on this block is at Tell Jezar identified with Gezer by M. Ganneau, and having now in its neighbourhood the modern village of Abu Shusheh. The natural character of this mass is in contrast with the first, for the highest part instead of being on the exterior, is in the centre where it forms a crater-like summit from which the slopes descend on all sides. The highest point is 850 feet above the sea.

The northernmost and third division of this series consists of a low range which stretches from el Mughar northward to Beit Dejan, a distance of twelve miles, and spreads west- ward to the sandy downs which separate the hills from the sea. This range forms the western boundary of the Plain of Eamleh and Ludd on the north and the Plain of Ekron on the south. One of its central valleys is Wady Deiran, a word probably derived from Daroma, an ancient name of this district. The highest part of this undulating track is 261 feet.

II.

The next division includes the hills between Wady es Surar and Wady es Sunt, which may be reckoned on an average about four miles apart. Here also are some distinct features. On the east there is a ridge extending from the Sunt to the Surar, with a short slope of about half a mile towards the eastern limit of the Shephelah in Wady en Najil ; and a longer slope of about two miles towards the


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252 252 THE SHEPHELAH OR PHILISTIA.

west, where the drainage is received by a valley, generally parallel to Wady en Jtfajil, and also running northward to Wady es Stirar. At the head of the valley is Beit Nettif (alt. 1,517 feet) with a fine view ; in the centre is Beit el Jemal ; and at its outfall is 'Am Shems (alt. 917 feet), the Beth Shemesh of Scripture (1 Sam. vi, 9-20).

The heights on the west of the valley also extend from the Sunt to the Surar. But these heights throw off spurs and ranges to the westward. The southern part descends in short spurs to Wady es Sunt where the wady makes two great bends to the north.

Then a long range is thrown off to the west, beginning on the south of Khurbet el Kheisham (alt. 1,245 feet), and having on its summit the village of Mughullis and Kh. el Mensiyeh, where the range bends round to the north, having the village of Dhennebbeh on its western flank, which descends to the plain. On the north of Dhennebbeh, the range is indeed prolonged westward across the plain at a Jow elevation, but sufficient to make it the continuation of the waterparting between the basins of Nahr Eubin and Nahr Sukereir, which entered this division at Beit Nettif. From its. origin to Kh. el Menshiyeh the range skirts the right bank of Wady es Sunt and divides it from Wady el Menakh, at the. head of which is the village of el Bureij (alt. 830 feet).

North of Khurbet el Kheisham, another range is extended to the west, between Wady el Menakh and Wady es Surar. It terminates on the plain where the wady enters it.

III.

The hills between Wady es Sunt and Wady el Afranj, now come under notice. They arise on the east in a range which originates between the head of Wady es Sur and Wady el Afranj. The range forms the left bank of Wady es Sur, which is a part of the eastern boundary line of the Shephelah, following it northward till the Sur joins the Wady Musurr, and from the union proceeds Wady es Sunt. The


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range now turns to the westward as far as the junction of Wady Zakariya with the Sunt.

The descent of the range eastward to the Sur is abrupt, like that of the range along Wady en Najil on the north. The slope to the west is much longer, and about four miles in width, terminating partly in Wady el Afranj on the north-east of Beit Jibrin, but chiefly in Wady Zakariya, called also Wady es Seiji, which rises about two miles north- eastward of Beit Jibrin, and runs northward to Wady es Sunt.

At the foot of Beit Jibrin, but on the north of Wady el Afranj, a range commences, which runs northward to Wady es Sunt, where it terminates in Tell Zukariya. This range is altogether seven miles in length, and completely separates the eastern tract, just described, from the western. The range rises steeply on the east, from the banks of Wady el Judeiyideh, and Wady Zakariya ; but it throws off long slopes towards the plain, which however they are prevented from reaching by the interposition of another range running from the right bank of Wady Afranj, on the north-west of Beit Jibrin up to Wady es Sunt, where it ends in Tell es Safi. This western range throws the southernmost waters of the middle range to the north, and collecting the rest of the western drainage of the middle range in them, finds an outlet to the Sunt in Wady es Safi, on the east of TeU es Safi. The middle range rises to 1,335 feet in Kh. es Surah. On its western slope are the villages of Kudna and Eana, and Deir edh Dhibban.

Besides Tell es Safi (alt. 695 feet), the summits of the western range are distinguished by the village of Dhikerin (alt. 680 feet), and its slopes contain the villages of Berkusieh (alt. 585 feet), and Summeil (alt. 405 feet). From the ground between those villages a slight swell extends across the plain to the villages of el Butani, about five miles from the sea.


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